[s-cars] Replacing a CV joint
r0ssat0_987 at att.net
Thu Aug 3 14:51:17 EDT 2006
Good points Sean. I wanted to mention the tightening torques but then I forgot. I never tried the bolt trick to push off the CV joint because I was used to working on VW CV joints that use a nut on an integral stud instead of a bolt into a threaded hole. I'll keep it mind the next time I have to do that, which hopefully won't be for a while.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Sean Douglas" <quattro20v at telus.net>
> Good write-up Bob, a few other tips for Chuck:
> 1. when tightening/loosening the large axle bolt, make sure the car is
> on the ground and use a large breaker bar, with a cheater pipe. A 3/4
> drive 27 mm socket work well here. The tightening torque is 148 ft-lbs
> plus a 1/4 turn.
> 2. Another way to get the outer CV joint off is to use an old axle bolt
> and thread it all the way in the end, when it bottoms out, keep turning
> and the joint will pop off. This is for the front outer only, the rear
> outer has a hidden circlip that must be removed before.
> 3. The original inner CV bolts are 10 mm XZN (triple square), but some
> of the replacement one can be 12 mm. Tighten these to 59 ft-lbs.
> 4. Pay attention to the orientation and locations of the circlip, dished
> washer and thrust washer. Put the new ones on and drive the joint back
> on with a soft, deadblow mallet.
> Sean D.
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Robert Rossato
> > Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 9:46 AM
> > To: Charles Rose; s-car-list at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Replacing a CV joint
> > Which CV joint? Inner, or outer?
> > In either case it starts with removing the axle from the car.
> > You'll need a 27mm socket to loosen the axle nut holding the
> > outer joint to the hub. The inner CV joint is held to the
> > transmission flange via 6 triple square bolts. The size bit
> > you need for those is a 10mm triple sq. Do not attempt to
> > loosen these bolts unless you fully seat the driver into the
> > bolt head. They're easy to strip if you're not careful.
> > This is really more of a problem with the smaller 8mm triple
> > squares but it doesn't hurt to be careful with the 10's as well.
> > Clean out the bolt head with a paper clip to dislodge and
> > dirt that's in there and give the bolt head a quick spray of
> > brake clean or similar to blow everything out. Use and
> > extension on the end of the triple square driver and lightly
> > tap it in to the bolt head with a hammer to fully engage it.
> > Then put your ratchet on to loosen it. Always keep pressure
> > on the driver as you don't want it to back out or you'll
> > strip the head.
> > You'll either want to have somebody stepping on the brakes as
> > you loosen the bolts, or if you're alone, install a couple of
> > lug bolts in the flange (I'm assuming you've taken the wheel
> > off) and use a long bar between the lug bolts with the end
> > resting on the floor. This will lock the axle from turning.
> > You'll figure it out.
> > Before you remove the inner CV joint from the flange clean
> > off the area of as much grime and dirt as possible. Spray it
> > all down with Simple Green and wipe it clean. You want to
> > avoid getting any dirt in the CV joint. Have a bag ready to
> > cover the end of the joint when you pop it off the flange.
> > Cleanliness is key with CV joints. Though if this is the one
> > you need to replace then you won't have to worry about
> > cleaning things off until you go to reinstall.
> > Once you remove the inner CV joint from the flange then you
> > can pop out the outer CV from the hub. You'll have to turn
> > the wheel all the way to one side to give you additional room.
> > Now that the axle is out place it in a vise. Cut the clamps
> > off for which ever CV you're replacing. The outer one I've
> > always knocked off by hitting it with a rubber or rawhide
> > mallet on the inside face. The inner one requires that you
> > remove a circlip at the end of the shaft before you can
> > remove it. May have to press down on the CV slightly to
> > allow you to remove the circlip.
> > Installation is reverse of removal. The new outer joints
> > will probably come with a new axle bolt, though it will most
> > likely need a 17mm hex driver to install it instead of the
> > 27mm socket needed for the original. The inner CV will also
> > come with new bolts, though again, they may be a hex drive.
> > Bob
> > -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: "Charles Rose" <everett2487 at adelphia.net>
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > I noticed my boot was ripped about a week ago and the cv
> > joint started
> > > making a knocking sound before I received the replacement boot I
> > > bought so it looks like I will be replacing the entire joint. I
> > > should be receiving it today and I was wondering if someone
> > could give
> > > me an outline of the steps to replace the cv joint. I have
> > never done
> > > a cv job before and I don't have a service manual, I know,
> > I know I'm
> > > going to get one soon. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am
> > > driving to school in about a week, Maine to Virginia, and
> > need to get
> > > this taken care of immediately.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Chuck
> > >
> > > 1993 S4
> > >
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