[s-cars] Current draw/dead battery
calvinlc at earthlink.net
calvinlc at earthlink.net
Sun Dec 23 12:10:05 PST 2007
What is your present current draw with the car turned off and buttoned up?
I am wondering if you have not gotten the current draw down to an acceptable
level and that you are working with a badly injured battery due to its many
complete discharges. If your draw is under 25 mA, you really shouldn't have
a problem with a good battery. That is 40 hours to discharge one-amp hour,
and most car batteries are 50-60 amp-hours. So at that rate one week of
idle time would take out less than 10% of your battery's capacity, which
should be fine.
From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Jim Furdyn
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 11:39 AM
To: s-car-list at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Current draw/dead battery
On today's episode of "What did Jim do to his S-pig today?" we'll discuss
what the "removing pin 8 from the central lock/interior light control
procedure yielded towards the ghost current draw/dead battery problem.
As stated, the above procedure was a simple one and was (and still could be)
a possible avenue to go down as far as eliminating possible culprits. This
morning, I saw that the meter was indicating a hair more than 12.0 vdc, so I
knew the car would not start. I tried and the voltage dropped to below 10.0
vdc and tried to turn the flywheel for a second and then gave up on that and
started clicking. So it has been concluded that the above procedure did not
yield a remedy to the problem.
I removed the Kenwood 10 disc CD changer from the trunk a few months back,
because I never use it and I currently run a single CD, Nakamichi CD-400
head unit and use the AUX function for MP3's. Today when I removed the
driver side lower dash area to gain access to the relay panel behind it, I
noticed a control module tucked way up under the dash. I found a power
control module for the Kenwood DC changer?! I traced the wires and it was
powered up via the hot leads going to the radio factory harness. I cut the
wires and removed the entire unit. I then pulled the radio and made sure
there was nothing there out of the ordinary. So I'll let it fly like this to
see if the current draw was eliminated.
I also double checked the head unit powering up the amps, just to make sure
that the radio was not bleeding power to a battery sucker. No joy, the radio
works correctly so when the head unit is off, the amps are off/ when the
head unit is on, the amps are on.
Stay tuned for the next episode titled "Did it fix it?!"
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