[s-cars] Busted Clutch Actuation Rod
mkturczyn at verizon.net
Mon Feb 9 04:21:14 PST 2009
Just a few tricks I used to replace the MC.
I used a (fairly common at your local FLAP) strong magnet on a flex shaft
that to hold the end of the clevis pin and insert it.
I did not drain down the master and slave when I replaced my MC. I could
not pull the screen out of the reservoir to suck out the fluid below the MC
intake line so I just put a pan on top of a thick towel and caught the fluid
inside of the car. It was no issue or mess for me.
I used a low pressure bleeder to push fluid through the master while I
opened up the slave cylinder bleed screw. The master bleed out the first
On 2/9/09 12:57 AM, "AaronT" <atay101 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks Bill
> Excellent idea but it looks like she broke it off flush with the clevis.
> Aaron - Dreaming of summer on the middle fork whilst ordering a new
> On Sun, Feb 8, 2009 at 4:08 PM, Bill M <airbil at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Aaron clutched~
>> "Can the broken clevis on the clutch pedal really be accessed w/o
>> removing the clutch and brake pivot assembly? Freds comment "access is
>> limited" is an understatement.
>> To those who have done this, is it worth it to remove the pivot assembly?
>> (Being 6'4 isn't helpful in this instance)
>> At least its pushing 35deg here in my snowy Idaho driveway!"
>> It's been a number of years since I did this, so as best as I can recall..
>> the clevis can be removed
>> without removing the whole assembly.
>> That said, it is an incredible S feat to do this upside down and backwards
>> on a cold snowy Idaho driveway.
>> IF you are lucky enough to have broken the threaded portion of the threaded
>> rod somewhere where you are left with some thread on both sides of the
>> I would highly recommend trying to connect the two broken halves with a
>> "coupling nut"
>> I'd say this is just as good and possibly better than a new MC... and way
>> Bill~one time uber rafter of the middle fork of the Salmon River~M
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