[s-cars] UrS4 Heater Core replacement
trgreen at comcast.net
Sat Jul 30 19:58:35 PDT 2011
Ah, you bask in the sunshine of Southern California without a care,
Martin. Here in locations where soaking downpours occur in all
seasons, the plenum chamber will have a few inches of water
during a rainstorm that may last several hours. This occurs even with
the cleanest drains because the incoming water exceeds the capacity of
the drain. This means that much of the time the airbox
seal will be sitting in water around much of the perimeter. The
original seal had this butyl impregnated in the seal to ensure it is
waterproof. Much of the foam tape weatherstrip is not waterproof but
meant to stop air infiltration. My concern is that it would leak some
if left standing in water. It might put someone over the edge to have
the carpet get wet right after a repair of a leaking heater core
that soaked the carpet with coolant, requiring many hours of clean-
up. : > )
On Jul 30, 2011, at 10:38 PM, Martin Kozaczek wrote:
> I used adhesive backed foam tape to seal the blower motor assembly
> to the car and used silicone to seal the heater core to the blower
> What am I missing in this discussion.
> On Jul 30, 2011 8:30 PM, "Tom Green" <trgreen at comcast.net> wrote:
> > I have used the genuine Audi part for the sealing cord that is used
> > for the
> > center light section and some fender joints. It is a 10mm round
> > rope that is perfect for those well fitting pieces. The airbox seal
> > is thicker,
> > more like 12 or 14mm. I would be careful using it on an opening that
> > is much
> > rougher and only has the strap to pull it down. Well, suffice it to
> > say that it
> > needs attention to detail to ensure it is sealed.
> > I passed on the NAPA sealing cord since what they had in stock was
> > 1/4" cord,
> > and I didn't think it was sufficient for the taillights. With the
> > price going up, I
> > will need to order the larger NAPA cord in advance for a taillight
> > change.
> > My problem with the Audi sealing cord was just opposite of the
> > seal;
> > the taillight seal comes in 10M boxes, so there was extra. Since I
> > willing to spend over $200 just for the look of euro tails, I did
> > see any
> > point in worrying about the price of some sealant.
> > I am going to investigate this airbox seal again, hopefully to get
> > correct length.
> > Tom '95 S6
> > '95.5 S6 avant
> > Knoxville, TN
> > On Jul 30, 2011, at 7:28 PM, JC wrote:
> >> Another hack-around suggestion - Butyl Sealant tape - that black
> >> plastic
> >> gooey tarlike stuff. Audi uses that to seal tailights and a lot of
> >> other
> >> things on also (ex: I think the relay box under the hood is sealed
> >> down with
> >> it?), if you really can't find the right thing I guarantee that
> >> would work
> >> and is freely available at any NAPA etc.
> >> Also I wonder if the wrong measurement for the part number is
> like the
> >> recent hose-length thing - its cut to a length at the distribution
> >> warehouse...
> >>> Thanks for the input guys.
> >>> I have half a mind to reuse the existing seal as it is still
> >>> in place and looks reasonable. But I can see a definite leak
> >>> path there, and would hate to be facing the job again for the
> >>> sake of a seal. Will check with the dealer on Monday.
> >>> Cheers!
> >>> Duncan
> >>> On 31/07/2011 6:33 AM, "Robert Myers" <bob at chips-ur-s.com> wrote:
> >>>> *This message was transferred with a trial version of
> >>> CommuniGate(r)
> >>>> Pro*
> >>>> But, with age it (plumber's putty) gets harder and less
> >>> flexible and
> >>>> more fragile.
> >>>> Bob
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