[torsen] Re: diffs and flaming.............sorry it's long....
J123fs at aol.com
J123fs at aol.com
Tue Feb 13 21:02:05 EST 2001
Again with my .02 .
Regarding all this comment(s) on the diff position: Rear lock or unlocked,
center Torsen, or early manually lockable.
I again have seen much opinion, and little hard fact, other then the quoted
.................There is truth in both sides of the argument regarding this
SAE engineers and authors have vested interest in disseminating valid
information regarding testing done in a scientific manner, and ergo, Scott
has some good experience although "seat of the pants" and not really based on
actual testing with accelerometers that may or may not be valid.
The key here is to address real world usage of the cars as anyone (Myself
included) with a smidgen of knowledge of chassis tuning knows what works
correctly at 10/10s DOES NOT WORK at anything less, and certainly would not
be acceptable for mass consummation or "run of the mill" driving styles or
Hence the factory cutout or the locked rear diff at a predetermined (LOW)
speed, so as not have massive oversteer at the INEVITABLE HIGH slip angles
the cars will encounter ( the same as rally cars, off-road live rear axle
racing trucks, and welded diff (or NO DIFF) dirt track cars experience).
In my own feeble but informed opinion, what works on a packed snow surface (
or other low CF surface) where rear power (really power oversteer) steering
and high correction factors ( slip angles) are both fun and the fast way to
go, that really have 0 bearing on any street driving, or high performance
pavement driving both in the wet or dry.
I would challenge some of the posters to back up their arguments with sound
physics and a bit of reading on the nature of what really holds a car to the
road, as I think both sides can learn valuable insight as to different ways
of looking at things for different situations, conditions and driving styles,
not just to flame each other.
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