[urq] RE : Cold start valve ?
laraa at sympatico.ca
Sat Jan 27 22:44:04 EST 2007
Ado and Martin,
Did a few tests today:
Thermo time switch: Good, continuity (at -15C),
Spark plugs: OK, sparks when cranking,
Battery: marginal, a new German-made MOLL was purchased this morning,
Cold Start Valve: 12V while cranking? NO !
Bingo, I have my culprit. As Martin Pajak told me, the red/brown wire
at the starter usually break internally, and then no 12+ at the CSV.
Now, maybe I'm getting old, but working outside by -15C is not my
desired week-end task anymore... This will wait for next week, in a
friend's heated garage.
So, because I needed to start the car to move it, I created an
"alternative" harness. I picked a correct female connector for the CSV
(from Eric's Coupe that is now in boxes in my basement...), and I
hooked it to ground and to the easiest 12+ driver switched source
under the hood, the washer pump connector!
Now I can start the car easily, just by grabbing the wiper lever which
now makes the CSV fire ! Amazing how a little squirt of fuel is all it
needs to start. Pulling the lever with the engine hot produce lots of
stumble, as one would expect. I think I will try it at WOT too, just
to see if this makes more power... :-)
Thanks again friends, this one was easy to diagnose because of your
Good to hear about the new job. The CSI is connected (earth switched
12V) to the thermo time switch (on the back of the head), and
energized only with the key on "start" position (on GV, WR), so the
test is easy with a bulb or LED or V meter connected to the CSI plug.
The test device should show the duration of the spray, as per CIS
chart (think 3-15 sec depending on engine temp). The TTS operation,
continuity, or contact corrosion is usually the case, so only if those
tests prove OK, check the CSI operation, which rarely fails.
Louis-Alain Richard wrote:
>So, last night and this morning, at -20C, my beloved urQ refused to
>fire, for the first time in years. I suspect the cold start valve,
>since I didn't smell any gas, and it finally catched after a long
>cranking period, with the help of another battery. Otherwise, car
runs fine, and pull strongly thanks to cold air (yeah!).
>So question: what is the firing sequence, or circuitry for the CSV ?
>Which sensor provides the signal ? Is the ECU involved ? How to test
it easily ?
>Thanks in advance,
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