[urq] G'box numbers, Areial wiring and more

Steve Eiche seiche at shadetreesoftware.com
Sun Jul 29 17:48:35 EDT 2007

Answers in text.

After a fairly long period without posting I now have four questions:

1. Aerial Wiring: I have been fortunate and obtained a fully working 
original electric aerial for my WR. The wiring feed to it appears to  be 
a two-wire T-shaped connector with one spade connector set at 90 degrees 
to the other. The top of the "T" is a red and black wire which appears 
to be a permanent live (from where I am not absolutely sure but a 
continuity check suggests it comes from the radio - but perhaps changes 
colour on the way). The vertical of the "T" is a plain white wire which 
definitely comes from the Radio and seems to be the "trigger" feed from 
the radio (I know this because I have tested continuity of this to the 
multi plug on the rear of the radio. (I call it "radio" but it is a 
Blaupunkt CD & radio). When the t-connector is connected the aerial will 
not lift or retract when the radio is switched on. Nor if the ignition 
is switched on. Makes no difference.
If I touch the red/black wire on the "aerial" terminal for the white 
wire, the aerial lifts. If I touch the red/black wire on both terminals 
simultaneously, the aerial retracts. But if the two wires are connected 
as they should be, nothing happens.
Does anyone know what is going on and how it should be wired and should 

The body of the aerial must be grounded (earthed) to the chassis of the 
car.  There is a bracket with a bolt that secures that aerial to which 
the internal electronics' ground (earth) is connected.  Red is constant 
power, white is the trigger (12V here raises the aerial, removal of 12V 
causes the aerial to retract).

2. I have a spare ECU which has the pressure sensor outlet "stump" 
broken off. Does anyone know a supplier of this sensor (transducer) and 
if possible a part number or value/rating. Approx cost would be welcome too.

The pressure sensor is a 2 bar 0-5VDC absolute sensor that has been 
obsolete for at least 11 years.  Not to worry, spares from used ECUs 
from people who have done swaps are fairly common.  Alternately, you can 
use a newer sensor, like that from one of the later 10Vt 200s (or 5000T 
in the US).  With these you need to adapt the MAP hose connection a bit 
and provide 5VDC for the supply (just run a wire to a supply pin on a 
chip or convenient trace) instead of the 8V input the original used.

3. Can anyone point me in the right direction for a chart or the like to 
show how to identify the various ur quattro and coupe quattro gearboxes. 
I have an 016 gearbox that came from a one owner from new 1986 coupe 
quattro. I also have what I was told was an ur quattro 016 gearbox. In 
almost all aspects they seem identical (only difference I have noticed 
is one box has a switch in a different place where the other has a 
blanking plug and vice versa. Is there any way to tell what boxes I 
have, and what ratios they contain. I always believed the coupe quattro 
was lower geared than the ur quattro to give it a bit better 
accelleration with its lower powered engine. If true then it will be no 
use in the ur quattro.
I know that the numbers on the top of the bell housing will tell you 
when a box was made - i.e. 20106 is 20 October 1986 but I would like to 
know more and ultimately confirm what I have in these two boxes.

The Family Album lists the transmission codes and what ratios, etc., 
that they have.  The transmission code is a two or three character code 
stamped on the bell housing/  Generally, the non turbo 016s had 4:11 
final drive ratios, which will not work in an ur quattro (3:89 final 
drive) unless you swap in the rear diff as well.

4. Finally, the sender that sits in the hole on the top of the bell 
housing - that looks for the pins in the flywheel - how do you remove it 
without breaking it. I have removed the cap screw and it is possible to 
rotate it in either direction but I can't lift it out. Any good suggestions.

No good suggestions here other than a good soaking with penetrating oil. 
  I have never seen one that was that stuck.

I will be grateful for answers to any or all of the above questions and 
will look forward to reading the.
Many thanks.

I guess you can tell from the length of this email that there isn't much 
to here because it's STILL RAINING here in sunny (a long time ago) 
Have a look at the galleries attached to these links if your interested. 
We have had a bit of bad weather here recently to say the least.

More information about the urq mailing list