[urq] RE : Phase 1 Complete! Thanks!

[Brandon Rogers]

When I first got my 3B conversion on the road I used a cone filter - and
_hated_ it - too many loud whooshing and hissing noises.  Got an airbox
and back to nice good engine and exhaust noises.

I think 034 now makes a an airbox to go in place of the fuel
distributor- I'm guess you put a cone filter in there but I don't know..

Brandon

-----Original Message-----
From: urq-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:urq-bounces at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of Louis-Alain Richard
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:28 AM
To: 'Todd Phenneger'; dgraber460 at aol.com; urq at pacbell.net; 'urq list'
Subject: [urq] RE : Phase 1 Complete! Thanks!


While I don't have a 034ed car, I know one, Brady's '83. He will
probably chime in later on that subject, I think he is busy getting
married these days, but I can comment on a few things.

- throttle. If one swap the progressive cam from the OEM setup for a
more direct/linear device, throttle will be very touchy and sensitive to
input. For everyday drives, it can be annoying. 

- noise. Brady's car has a cone filter directly in front of the TB.
While it is fine for performance, noise level is high, obviously, but
the noise pitch is also a bit strange, like a turbine mixed with a
leaking door seal. If it was my car, I'd keep the cone filter, but I
would muffled it in a custom box to hear more of the engine/exhaust and
less of the intake. I don't like noisy engines in a street car.


Louis-Alain




> -----Message d'origine-----
De la part de Todd Phenneger
!
> 
> Dennis,
> I¹ve been spending quite a bit of time on the MotorGeek website and 
> there is a LOT of knowledge there.  Not to mention some very skilled 
> builders. What Engine are you doing this on?  Stock ur-q 10vt or 
> something more along
> the MC Variety?
> 
> Even if using the normal Solid Lifter engine you could still get tons
of
> power out of that motor with the low compression it has.   But if your
> going
> to build something your probably better off going with an MC and then 
> you can always lower the compression a little with a  thicker head 
> gasket.
> 
> Are you going to do Fuel Only or Fuel & Spark?  Fuel & Spark is needed

> if you plan to run upwards of 15psi as I¹ve read a lot of people have 
> issues getting the stock ECU to behave well above 15-18psi.  But with 
> proper fueling that 15psi can be achieved with a far smoother running 
> engine.  If you run fuel & Spark, well, The sky¹s the limit.  I think 
> Javad got 350whp out of his 10vt.  But that hardly compares to the 
> 800hp he¹s gotten from the 20vt.
> 
> As for what you need, AFAIKT you need
> Custom Crank Trigger wheel. ³Or 5-window Distributor if your going 
> with 5-coil Ignition setup in addition to fueling. Water Temp sender.
> Intake Temp Sender??  I know you need this for Ignition, not sure on
Fuel
> Only.  They seem to be using a GM Temp sender that¹s is easy to get,
> affordable, and works well.
> Fuel Rail w/brackets
> S4 Style Throttle Position Sensor or other sensor.  ³Not sure if doing
> Fuel
> Only how this intigrates with the stock Idle switch, unless you have
the
> 034
> take over all Idle Control which it can do.
> 
> For basic parts that¹s about it.  Fuel only tuning should be a little 
> easier and there are plenty of maps out there from others so it should

> be pretty easy to find one that¹s close to your engine configuration 
> and go from there.  It really just depends on what you want. For me, I

> get lots of crappy fuel here in Central America so I like maintaing 
> the stock ECU for Timing as it has Knock Control.  But a properly 
> tuned engien should not ping
> and shouldn¹t need it.  Use an EGT Gauge in your car it will tell you
if
> your running dangerously.
> 
> Let me know what info you want and I¹ll try to help you out.
> 
> Todd
> 
> 

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