[urq] Too much Crankcase ventalation?Ben Swann benswann at comcast.netWed Sep 5 11:44:06 EDT 2007
So no connection to manifold pressure/vacuum? I was contemplating a catch reservoir with draincock at bottom - two fittings at top - one to vent out crankcase and valve cover and the other to small filter and/or slight draw from Intake using one way valve and restrictor. This way any oil would be collected and observed, but would retain some PVC benefit - just not too much. Thinking...thinking.. Ben -----Original Message----- From: cody at 5000tq.com [mailto:cody at 5000tq.com] Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:49 AM To: Ben Swann Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com Subject: RE: Too much Crankcase ventalation? http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/codysaudi/P1010017?full=1 Just use the MC crankcase vent hose that goes to the metal pipe, then it attaches to the T hose that fits on the valve cover, then stick a mini K&N filter availible at your FLAPS on the other end of that T hose. -Cody Quoting Ben Swann <benswann at comcast.net>: > Thanks for all the replies. Before going further, it would be good to know > more about the engine: > > The engine installed in '83 Ur Quattro is MC-1 rebuilt with align-bored > block/crank with 1 size-over main bearings, piston assemblies balanced to > nearest gram. Reworked NF head 42I 38E valves and stock MC-2 cam > has external > aux. water manifold. Intake manifold and throttle body are from WX engine, > dual-piece exhaust manifold, UrQ downpipe to 2.5" exhaust with free-flow cat. > K-24 turbo, Bypass valve is oriented to blowoff to turbo intake after filter > and forced air intake is being fabricated to fit car. Using stock UrQ > intercooler for now. Engine is being managed by separate ignition and EFI > computers - MAC-14 with dual knock sense ignition and most CIS components > deleted, and Megasquirt V2.2 EFI with MSExtra code pushing fuel through 38lb > injectors (for now). Engine is mated to 5000 Quattro transmission using > single-mass 3B flywheel setup. Engine has baffled oil pan from 7A. > Frankenmotor indeed, but intention is to put together a durable high-rev. 10V > I5 engine that fits car well and retains original look/layout as original > motor. > > OK - back to the XS crankcase/camcover vent issue - this is surely > what it is, > and Scott helped bring it to light with his questions. I'd rather not design > and implement a catch-can system yet although it is something possibly to > consider if I push boost over 2.5 bar. I would like to know how I can > regulate things so it just isn't trying to suck the outside in at > idle or blow > insides out at full boost - slated to be 2.5 in the near future, but need to > do basic tuning first. > > In answer to Scotts ?'s below re. how it is plumbed, it seems I my > have things > a bit too simplified right now and I would not even consider present > hookup to > be "PVC". Basically there is direct connection using a stock hose > between cam > cover, intake manifold and crankcase. So I surmise that whatever manifold > pressure is, it is the same inside the camcover, and crankcase as well. Big > oversight I suppose or more like, just getting things to work as they should > after the car has been down for nearly a year. > > As I explore my boxes of doodads and valves, I'd appreciate entertaining any > good suggestions on a simple means of having just a little vacuum in the > crankcase and cam area when under negative pressure and very little if any > postive pressure in the cam/crankcase area when under boost. Or > perhaps there > should be just a slight bit of pressure made inside the engine - blowby etc. > that is allowed to vent, but be recovered "gracefully" into the intake. This > engine is new and should be very tight. The noise goes away when vacuum is > relieved in the cam cover area, so hopefully not to difficult.. > > Catch can recovery system is not outside the question of future mods, but > certainly outside the scope for the immediate needs as best as I can tell. > > TIA for suggestions even on how to make a simple catch can and drainback. > > Ben > > -----Original Message----- > From: QSHIPQ at aol.com [mailto:QSHIPQ at aol.com] > Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 8:58 PM > To: quattro at audifans.com; urq at audifans.com > Cc: benswann at comcast.net > Subject: Re: Too much Crankcase ventalation? > > Ben > Congrats on getting it running, missed the actual fix, since I was perplexed > staring at the non-run status on my visit earlier this spring... WRT PCV, > by default, on several add on turbo/supercharger systems over the > years, I've > > been initiated fully into this mysterious dark world of vacuuming > dynosuar-scum we call PCV. First, that's a lot of vacuum! I thought 14in > with my > re-gifted blue urq was a lot. I suspect you are actually creating so much > that > your squeal may be the seal whistle as it finds more free air source. Let's > look at the stock system, then look at what EFI does to it. > > The stock urq uses a combined breather/low vacuum setup with a manifold > valve. When the urq is not under boost, the PCV routing goes from the > crankcase > to the head, and then directly into the manifold. When the urq is under > boost, the PCV routing goes from the crankcase to the head, and then to the > igloo > (PCV valve at manifold is closed). This allows a mild vacuum source under > boost, keeping pressure from building in the crankcase under sustained boost > load (trailer/mountain/high GVWR). > > Looking at the above, with a stock urq you have a maximum vacuum of 14in at > idle at sea level (most urq's IME see around 12in - I have the euro head and > cam which puts it higher). Ok, that's baseline, now add in EFI with the > stock PCV... > > What did you do with the breather/low vacuum line with the EFI setup? My > guess is that with increase vacuum, you need to increase port size on the > breather, and possibly decrease port size on the manifold valve. What I've > learned over the years, is that slight changes to designed PCV > vacuum sources > can > really affect how the PCV works or specifically doesn't. For instance, many > times I've seen restrictors inserted into the igloo breather line, that > actually caused too much pressure in the system. The last one I saw this > with on > an urq, actually blew oil out the turbo seals because the pressure was too > high on the gravity return of the turbo oil. Here, you are experiencing the > opposite problem... > > With vacuum too high, you will overload the breather line capacity, and the > vacuum in the crankcase and head will be excessive. You equalized the > breathing by removing the oil cap, which means you need to either > add a bigger > > breather, or add an additional breather until you get the right equalization > of > engine manifold vacuum to engine crankcase vacuum and/or restrict the size of > > the PCV valve ID at the intake manifold. I tend to favor chasing smaller > vacuum feed ports to larger breather ports first, because vacuum > leaks tend to > > become more significant as the amount of vacuum increases. To this end, you > can replace the PCV valve with one out of a later turbo car (an upright ball > and valve type vs the diaphram type the urq uses). Once under > boost however, > > you need to make sure you have a constant low vacuum source to keep negative > pressure in the crankcase, without blowing oil out the valve cover gasket. > > Ben, it's a dance for sure, but the very last thing I would do, is go catch > can. IMO/E, that's an 'nth' power mod on a full out race car that has > optimized VE in every other respect. Or, if you are running really high > boost > levels, it can increase the amount of air vs oil vapor. But, as a general > rule, > I run PCV closed loop whenever possible. It's easy to run a catch can, it's > harder to design a proper sized PCV system. In my opinion catch cans are > mostly used to avoid the harder design of doing it properly. Which means by > definition a catch can would be catching more than a properly > designed closed > > loop PCV circuit. > > HTH and my .02 > > Scott Justusson > QSHIPQ Performance Tuning > Chicago > > > > > > > > In a message dated 9/4/2007 3:34:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time, > benswann at comcast.net writes: > am finally able to drive the Ur Quattro that has the new engine with > Megasquirt - Yeah!. Engine is balanced MC-1 with NF head. I am now tuning > it, so it will get better and better, but starting way rich, and trying to > figure creative ways to tune since I don't have ready access to a > dyno. I'll > probably need to have someone drive as I make changes to the VE > tables, etc.. > Ideas? > > > > Anyway, after my first extended tuning session and the engine was > on the warm > side, I noticed a nasty squeal almost like a loose belt when the engine was > idling. I feared the worst as it seemed to be coming from the head and > sounded a little like a metal machining noise, but went away when I gunned > the > engine. Oil level was good - still on the Havalone break-in crap. > > > > I pulled the oil cap and the noise went away with a release of some serious > vacuum. I repeated this experiment only to conclude that there is so much > vacuum on the head at idle, that it is probably evacuating the cam > bearing or > something to that effect. If I left the cap loose, the noise did not come > back, each time I tightened the oil cap, the noise cam back in a > few seconds. > I have the UrQ PVC hose setup, but so much is removed of the CIS > stuff, there > is fairly much a direct draw into the Intake manifold and the engine is > pulling a good 18-20 lbs of vacuum at idle. > > > > So just seeing if there is any solution to this. I would expect I should > have > some ventilation in the cam area, but this is too much. Ideas? > > > > Ben > > > > > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour > >
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