[urq] No stater motor functioning... need help!

[George]

I will add a strong second to the minor things you can do to overcome
electrical problems with almost any car. Back in the days when I ran Jags,
replacing the entire loom and all switches was a good place to start. 
(Brits drink warm beer because they have Lucas refrigerators.) 

In my '91 200 TQA I added a couple of ground wires early on just to overcome
questionable paths. At only 20,000 miles I found the exposed ground strap
from the transmission to the chassis so badly corroded that it had to be
replaced. 

When I put in the Euro headlights I had to remove the hot battery post on
the air box. So, I got power off the main wire to the alternator and
established another #4 ground from the chassis to the headlight relays and
on to the grounding bar at the fuel pressure regulator. 

One thing I have learned over the years about bolted electrical connectors
is to not mix the type of metal used for washers, nuts and spade lugs, as it
will set up a small battery effect and cause corrosion. And, dope them up
with dielectric grease.

Earlier, when I had to fix window regulator and rear view mirror motor
problems I added a ground from the mess inside the door to the under dash
ground point. 

Many of the engine sensors measure delicate resistance levels to do their
thing, and if the ground side gets flakey the transmitted signal goes with
it. About every three years I disconnect all wire connectors, pull relays
and fuses, clean them and apply dielectric grease - including the contact
rim on the boot. 
		 
Dirt and moisture are the enemy and they will get in there and slow down the
molecules.  

George Sidman

'91 200 TQ Avant at 309,000 miles, one owner, California car.