[urq] [s-cars] Rear Calipers

[Jack Walker]

Thanks for all the responses, and some terrific advice.

 

Since I initially posted, I've found the Lucas publication #XZB137, which
combined with the advice presented by members of the forums is going to give
me more than enough confidence to dive into refurbishing the calipers. I
found ECS has them for like $199 and I would be refunded $100 when I sent
back my cores. So, in light of this may not be the best price I'll wager I
can sure buy a lot of seal kits for $99.

 

Sorry I guess I didn't make enough note of the fact I WAS using a wind back
tool to pressure and rotate the piston!

And that the rod that goes through the threaded shaft bent while trying to
rotate the piston. Current advice is to pressure the piston and rotate the
piston with a set of channel locks, just haven't done it yet, because my
channel locks were on my sailboat!

 

Interestingly enough one of my 4 caliper's pistons doesn't have any notches
to engage the wind back tool tabs.

 

Jack Walker

   _____  

From: Rich Assarabowski [mailto:konecc at snet.net] 
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 8:05 AM
To: Rbade12; Jack Walker; S-CAR-List at audifans.com; urq at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Rear Calipers

 

You need to use a brake retraction tool with two "pegs" that engage the
slots in the piston, so you turn and push at the same time.   Your local
AutoZone should be able to rent you their caliper tools, it's made by "OEM"
(P/N 27111).  Use the appropriate disk that mates with the piston.

 

The hand brake cam should be well-lubricated, you can disassemble the spring
and pull out the shaft and clean the rust before regreasing. 

 

-- Rich A.

 

----- Original Message ----
From: Rbade12 <rbade12 at aol.com>
To: Jack Walker <jack at walkerperformancegroup.com>; S-CAR-List at audifans.com;
urq at audifans.com
Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 10:42:35 AM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Rear Calipers

I always have a heck of a time screwing pistons in, even with the "proper"
tool. Was the tool mated to the piston well enough that it was turning it as
pressure was applied? I've found that a well placed c-clamp and a big 'ol
channel locks carefully applied to the piston works well. I assume the
caliper is off the car, therefore the e-brake isn't engaged. 
Your experience could differ, but, I once bought a set of rebuilt calipers
and a couple years later they started acting wacky, so, I took them apart,
there was barely any grease on both e-brake mechanisms. and one piston was
pretty badly pitted. Since I've been a rebuilder, the hardest part of which
are the circlips that are inside the caliper. [I alterd a lock ring tool to
reach inside]. Try turning the piston again, unless it's really corroded
it'll turn.

Bob    91 200q20v



In a message dated 09/05/08 00:33:58 Central Daylight Time, HYPERLINK
"mailto:jack at walkerperformancegroup.com"jack at walkerperformancegroup.com
writes:
But, I?ve tried to wind back the calipers with a wind back tool and it bent 
the metal rod that?s supposed to twist the piston as it is compressed and 
wound back into the caliper body. So I must be doing something wrong? I?ve 
got like 4 of the rear calipers as parts to mess around with and they all 
seem to have the same problem, so it?s got to be me! 
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