[V6-12v] all quiet on the AUDI Front
JGriff at JGriff.com
Mon Mar 22 23:53:38 EST 2004
Spark plug wires ? I was having a hesitation issue at about 60k miles and
it turned out to be one bad plug wire. At 80k miles the problem returned
because one or all of the others went bad. I replaced them all and haven't
had a problem since.
James4ihl at aol.com wrote:
>Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2004 18:04:00
>To: v6-12v at www.audifans.com
>Subject: Re: [V6-12v] all quiet on the AUDI Front
>From: James4ihl at aol.com
>Since we've been asked for problems since its 'too quiet' out there... get
>your teeth into this one guys:
>Yep, you guessed it. Its the old hesitation problem again!!!
>Here's what's changed since I last asked your collective wisdom about the
>1. Car was taken to Audi shop and hooked up to diagnostic computer. No faults
>stored in permanent memory.
>2. Audi tech told me they had found nothing except (sic.) an 'intermittent
>non-signal from one lambda (O2) sensor. I said - "Well, don't you think the
>cause of my intermittent hesitation could be an intermittent non-signal?"
>maybe," he said, "but we usually replace the Coolant Temp Sender first because
>they're usually the only thing that can go without leaving a permanent fault
>3. So I replaced the coolant temp sender today. Result? Still hesitates. Oh,
>and now I have a noisy hydraulic lifter too, despite the procedure going
>nowhere near the rocker covers :)
>If I don't diagnose this soon, I'm gonna go nuts, I swear!! So, please, any
>good ideas? Could you:
>1. Think of anything that could be causing this, electrical, or mechanical.
>2. Think about this: when the hesitation occurs, its generally on
>accelleration. If you try to 'accellerate through' the hesitation (i.e.
>on the throttle) the car will stay at the same revs for as long as it decides
>to, then suddenly jump to correct revs for that throttle position. If, on the
>other hand, you back off the throttle a little way when it hesitates, it will
>'clear' (for want of a better term and let you accellerate smoothly again. Now
>what could cause that?
>3. Tell me how to do the following:
>a) if my manual tells me to 'check for an open circuit between connector X
>and connector Y, what setting do I use on a multimeter? Resistance?
>resistance, what kind of reading would be good and bad for an open circuit?
>b) if my manual tells me to check for a short circuit, same question as
>c) if my manual says to check for an earth fault between connector X and
>'engine earth', same question again...
>d) does anyone have a procedure, or any warnings, about disconnecting the
>multi-pin connectors to the ECU in order to test the wiring between the
>connectors in the engine bay and the multi-pins in there? Also how does
>one check the
>continuity - do you need a multi meter with bloody great long leads, or is
>there a way of extending them reliably?
>Please help, I'm really fed up with this damn problem now!
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JGriff at JGriff.com
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