[V6-12v] Check Engine Light

Tom Christiansen tomchr at ee.washington.edu
Tue Jan 11 15:59:01 EST 2005

At 11:50 AM 1/11/2005, Nathan Widmyer wrote:
>I ran the test and got 2411 over and over which means the EGR System
>and I have the code page up for the EGR system.  Anyone know the fixes
>for the common EGR system faults?   Thanks a lot in advance.


I could have sworn that I read a throttle body gasket R&R procedure written 
by you once... Maybe not. The procedure included information on how to 
clean the EGR passage in the throttle body.

The problem with the EGR is that either the valve plugs up or sticks, or 
the passage in the throttle body plugs up.

To clean the valve get yourself an EGR valve gasket. Take the EGR valve out 
and clean it and the feeder tube with O2 sensor safe carb cleaner (a wire 
coat hanger or some brake cable from a bike can help as well). Clean the 
EGR passage in the throttle body as well.
Exercise the EGR valve with a Mity-Vac or similar while working with the 
carb cleaner. The valve should open when you apply vacuum to it.

If the EGR passage, EGR valve, and feeder tube are clean but you still get 
the code, try measuring the resistance of the EGR temp sensor (skinny wire 
leading to a connector) while manually opening the valve with the Mity-Vac 
(engine running and at normal operating temperature). You should hear the 
engine change RPM as you open the valve (this verifies that the EGR passage 
and valve are clean). You should also see the EGR temp sensor change in 

If the EGR temperature sensor changes resistance when you open the EGR 
valve, I'd replace the solenoid unit controlling the EGR valve. Just follow 
the vacuum hose from the EGR valve (check for cracks/leaks now that you're 
at it). The hose ends in a small valve unit located on a bracket on the air 
filter box. This unit is the one controlling the EGR valve. It's pretty 
easy to replace. Replaces the little hoses on it now that you're in there 

Hope this helps.


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