[V6-12v] Head gasket replacement
Eyvind E. Spangen
200q20v at bluezone.no
Wed Mar 7 15:37:28 EST 2007
Thanks a lot!
The thing is that I live in Norway, Europe. There are nobody here that has
got the special tools for rent, only the dealerships have them and they
definitely don't hire them out.. ;) You have an UK mail address, do you live
in the UK?
The tool problem is the only reason for doing it this way. I have thought
about doing some other work like the valve stem seals and lifters like you
said, and if I find a way to get my hands on the special tools without
buying them (big $$), I'll do it.
I'll do all gaskets I get to. I'm actually considering pulling the engine,
replacing the oil pan gasket (not leaking, more like sweating oil, no
dripping) and replacing the old, tired clutch (it's a 5-speed) while I'm in
Again, thanks a lot for your tips, I'll check out every possible way to find
the special tools! If you could send me your pictures, it'd be great help!
From: James Whitehouse [mailto:james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk]
Sent: 7. mars 2007 21:06
To: Eyvind E. Spangen; v6-12v at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Head gasket replacement
I did the head gaskets not long ago, it's not that bad, just make sure you
use the cam and crank locking tools to get the timing spot on when you put
her back together.
Is there any particular reason for not wanting to remove the cam sprockets?
If your engine has done 300K miles and you're having to do the head gaskets,
I'd personally take the opportunity to do a few other things. Valve stem
seals and new lifters are a doddle with the heads off and cams out. I did
both these, and re-lapped the valves into their seats. Worked wonders,
engine is roughly twice as smooth and a third again as powerful as before.
Unless you have a specific reason, I'd do this. It won't make any difference
to having to re-time the car by leaving the sprockets on really, if you
absolutely *must* do the job without hiring the special tools, just make
sure the two locator holes on the cam ends are horizontal, with (from
memory, but I'll check it for you) the smaller holes facing inwards. That's
all the cam locking tool does - lock the cams in that position while you
tension the belt; this is the reason why you'll find it hard if you just
mark the cams because you'll have to find a way to hold the crank and two
cams dead still while tensioning the belt to get it spot on.
Whether or not you remove the cams, definitely replace the valley pan gasket
and consider replacing the oil retention valve underneath it. Replacing
these neccessitates removing the intake manifold, and when you do this you
must re-tighten the head bolts by a quarter turn. Again, I'd take this
opportunity to do it while you already have the intake manifold off.
If you decide to do more while you're in there, don't hesitate to ask for
procedures and I even have some pics from when I was doing all this.
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