[V6-12v] Head gasket replacement
james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk
Fri Mar 9 08:44:11 EST 2007
I have the specs for the cam-tool somewhere, I think I gave them to Tom a while back also. They're not too hard to make up yourself. I'll look them up for you, or Tom might still have the dimensions to hand...
The difficult one to measure up (and construct) is the crank tool. But they're not that expensive to buy, you can get them from US sites on the internet...
"Eyvind E. Spangen" <200q20v at bluezone.no> wrote: Thanks a lot!
The thing is that I live in Norway, Europe. There are nobody here that has got the special tools for rent, only the dealerships have them and they definitely dont hire them out.. ;) You have an UK mail address, do you live in the UK?
The tool problem is the only reason for doing it this way. I have thought about doing some other work like the valve stem seals and lifters like you said, and if I find a way to get my hands on the special tools without buying them (big $$), Ill do it.
Ill do all gaskets I get to. Im actually considering pulling the engine, replacing the oil pan gasket (not leaking, more like sweating oil, no dripping) and replacing the old, tired clutch (its a 5-speed) while Im in there..
Again, thanks a lot for your tips, Ill check out every possible way to find the special tools! If you could send me your pictures, itd be great help!
From: James Whitehouse [mailto:james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk]
Sent: 7. mars 2007 21:06
To: Eyvind E. Spangen; v6-12v at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Head gasket replacement
I did the head gaskets not long ago, it's not that bad, just make sure you use the cam and crank locking tools to get the timing spot on when you put her back together.
Is there any particular reason for not wanting to remove the cam sprockets? If your engine has done 300K miles and you're having to do the head gaskets, I'd personally take the opportunity to do a few other things. Valve stem seals and new lifters are a doddle with the heads off and cams out. I did both these, and re-lapped the valves into their seats. Worked wonders, engine is roughly twice as smooth and a third again as powerful as before.
Unless you have a specific reason, I'd do this. It won't make any difference to having to re-time the car by leaving the sprockets on really, if you absolutely *must* do the job without hiring the special tools, just make sure the two locator holes on the cam ends are horizontal, with (from memory, but I'll check it for you) the smaller holes facing inwards. That's all the cam locking tool does - lock the cams in that position while you tension the belt; this is the reason why you'll find it hard if you just mark the cams because you'll have to find a way to hold the crank and two cams dead still while tensioning the belt to get it spot on.
Whether or not you remove the cams, definitely replace the valley pan gasket and consider replacing the oil retention valve underneath it. Replacing these neccessitates removing the intake manifold, and when you do this you must re-tighten the head bolts by a quarter turn. Again, I'd take this opportunity to do it while you already have the intake manifold off.
If you decide to do more while you're in there, don't hesitate to ask for procedures and I even have some pics from when I was doing all this.
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