From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 1 00:11:22 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Thu Apr 1 00:11:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Steering Rack In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001701c417a7$a155f980$6500a8c0@headlappy> Just send the rack out to Jorgen Automotive in Ann Arbor Michigan. Cost 180 for them to rebuild it and you just ship it to them and they'll ship it back. Total down time approx 5 days if you send it on Saturday you'll have it back by thurs or Friday. 800-333-0600 Shawn Head -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bookshar Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 10:26 PM To: V8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Steering Rack After the TB mishap (gross negligence on my part) I took the plunge and pulled the heads. Looks like I got off easy with only 2 bent intake valves. Now it's time to make up for many years of neglect and the list of replacement parts is getting awfully long. Once the top end was removed, I noticed the torn boot on the steering rack, so out it came (Rubik must have worked for Audi after he finished inventing the cube). My question; has anyone on the list ever rebuilt a rack themselves? Looks like I can buy a replacement boot, but haven't noticed any other seal kit available. Other than the torn boot, it's never given me any signs of failure, but as long as it's out maybe I should replace some seals or whatever. Or have I really lost my mind? Any tips would be much appreciated. The list has been very helpful so far, I just wish I started following it sooner. Duane '90 V8Q 76k _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From lyddall at netzero.com Thu Apr 1 00:15:04 2004 From: lyddall at netzero.com (lyddall@netzero.com) Date: Thu Apr 1 00:15:08 2004 Subject: [V8] Hall sensor - now head hung in embarrassment Message-ID: <20040331.211408.14353.130768@webmail04.nyc.untd.com> Ed Yes - it was the cruise control one as described. Probably wouldn't make much difference except to the CC, but it was off and would have been annoying to have to go back in and fix it after I had put it al back together. Dave ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the Internet in years - NetZero HiSpeed! Surf the Web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month -visit www.netzero.com to sign up today! From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 08:01:21 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 08:01:23 2004 Subject: [V8] charging problem/ alternator References: <000901c4175a$244c9270$6701a8c0@Macpaq> Message-ID: <406C129D.BDD50186@sun.com> Steve, The dash light power comes from the battery cable between the pressed clamp under your passenger floor and the battery. This means it may be related to the dreaded green corrosion in the clamp.... Check voltage at the alt, the jumpstart post and the battery at idle.... how close are they ? This is my infamous...... ====================================================================== "Gory Details" for "Troubleshooting and Correcting the dreaded 12.5 at the Battery - 13.7 at the Alternator" Some Potential Symptoms: A) Car starts and runs fine, The dash gage measures a little low, but there aren't any numbers on the voltage gage, so you don't really notice it's been slowly sitting more and more to the left..... B) Every time you run the A/C for an extended time the car won't turn over the next time you stop and try to start it again....... C) Battery dies for no apparent reason, you jump start it and leave all electricals off, because you wan't the battery to charge back up... you go to your friendly mechanic... and what does he/she do ? pops the hood (Not the back seat) and measures the voltage at the jump start post (Which is a direct connect to the alternator) and low and behold the output is 13.7..... they announce looks ok to me, maybe you need a new battery ? ) $50.- to $100.- bucks (New Battery) and a week later, it does it again!!! Doooooohhhhhhhhh!!!! Ok, The reason the A/C kills the battery in this instance is when you turn on the A/C it turns the electric radiator fan onto hurricane mode and it sucks huge amounts of juice from the battery. As it is when the electrical system is working properly it barely keeps up to the current draw. With the battery barely getting any charge from the alternator the battery dies fairly quickly. Next Ok, Why does the jump start post measure 13.7 and the battery 12.5 ? because the wiring harness for the charging system goes like so: Alternator LUG--Cable-- Jump start Post | | C a b l e | | Firewall | | *** Pressed Clamp (Your problem area) | | |------- link to dash cluster gage | | Battery Problem: The "Pressed Clamp" is a metal tube about 3-4" long in which the battery cable is inserted into one end and the alternator cable inserted into the other. Then's it's pressed together to form a connection. Inside the clamp it get's corroded with the green goo just like your battery post's used to when you owned cars where the battery was under the hood :-) Vehicles that can be affected: 5000/100/200 (likely the V8 as well...) Tools Needed: Multimeter w/point attachment (Digital preferred) Wrench to disconnect battery Seriously heavy duty wire cutters to cut battery cable Wire Brush (4) Chrome hose clamps - (3/8" wide) x 1.5dia" or so (with hex head preffered) Vise Grips Nut Driver w/socket that fits above hose clamps Grease or Lithium grease in a spray can will do 4" x 4" piece of 1/16" thick rubber - I used old motorcycle tube A Printout of these instructions when you start(Seriously) (You'll be taking notes.....) Sharp Carpenters Knife or New Razor Blades.....something good enough to cut the plastic of the battery cable. Plastic Electrical tape Cold Beer - (Optional) Everything else but the Beer is a must, I would read the procedure to get an understanding of what's involved and why you want all this stuff before you start. This way, If you don't have some of the tools, you may be able to come up with some suitable substitutes in advance. Troubleshooting: Background.... I've been through this on my wife's 89 100 Avant 125k miles, after 2 voltage regulators(1 cheapy $25.-, and a $50.- Bosch), 1 Alternator belt, and 2 alternators... (Don't get one from PEP Boy's, mine lasted 1 day then died.) and a tremendous amount of cursing.... I decided to devote a day to getting to the bottom of this debacle myself. _____________________ These spots are for you to write down your findings as we explore the problem. Preliminaries: - Take out the back seat. - Open the hood. - Front of car on ramps helps, but is not required. Remember to block tires and use emergency brake, unless of course you have bad emergency brake levers on your rear calipers, then DON'T grab the emergency brake, just block the tires :-) 1) Measure battery with the car OFF ______________ Your Target is (12.8 +/- .1) -If it's below target, it's not being charged sufficiently or the battery is on the way out. How far along is the battery in it's projected life span ? (Believe it or not I had Sears check the battery with a Bear machine of some sort that put a load on it, looked ok, then they charged it and gave me a loaner battery for a few day's... whilst mine sat around for a few day's to see if it discharged. It didn't, battery was ok) Keep reading... 2) Measure at Jump start post with car OFF ____________________. Your Target (12.8 +/- .2) -If battery measures 12.8 and jump start post is at 12.5 or less your losing voltage from a bad connection in the cable somewhere.... Keep Reading... START YOUR ENGINES!!!!, Imagine checkered flag waving... sorry, getting off track... 3) Grab the multimeter with a pin point end. Measure voltage at the jump start post with car RUNNING ___________________. Your Target (13.7 +/- .2) -If voltage fluctuates wildly, as in more than .5 volts, possible regulator. $25.- (Cheap..) to $50.- (Bosch) -If voltage less than 13.7, I'd bring it somewhere reputable and have the alternator tested. It should put out an easy 13.7, could be as easy as new brushes. -KEEP READING, you may have more problems.... let's get 'em all checked out while where here. 4) Measure at Battery with car RUNNING ______________. Your Target (13.7 +/- .2) -If 3) meets target, but you fail here with less than 13.5, keep reading..... SHUT THE CAR OFF. How'd you do ? you probably failed somewhere or you wouldn't be doing this on a sat/sun instead of watching the ball game with a frosty beer in hand... :-) OK, If you failed and got the dreaded 13.7 Alt - 12.5 Bat, again... Keep Reading..... The Fun Part... Follow the Positive cable from the alternator, it travels across the top of the passenger side frame rail into the firewall at the passenger side foot well. Pull up the carpet on the passenger foot well. On the top of the foot well on the right side, you'll see the cable coming through. Start up the car and poke that positive side pointy end on the Multimeter through the cable to check the positive voltage. Check it before and after the "Pressed Clamp". The "Pressed Clamp" Looks like a 3 - 4" long by maybe .5" thick shrink wrap section on the cable. On the wife's car it measured 13.7 on the alternator side and 12.5 on the battery side..... If this is what you get, go grab a frosty out of the fridge, you've just figured out the problem :-) ===================================================================== Whilst drinking said Beer, you get to decide do I go out and buy a new cable from Audi for $430.- bucks or do we fix this puppy right know with all the Tools/Supplies outlined above ? I vote we get it over with and continue. - First things first, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!! - Back to the passenger footwell... pull on the cable and see if there is any slack. - Your gonna need about 3-4 inches. - If NOT, there is a clamp near the alternator where the cable is bolted in. Unbolt it from there and you'll get the slack. Back in the car at the passenger foot well.... - Once you have the slack, get the Big wire cutters and cut out the Dreaded "Pressed Clamp". Making sure to cut as close to the clamp as you can. - Strip approx 2" of insulation from both sides. - Put the 2 Chrome clamps on each cable loosely. - Put the 2 cables side by side so that the bare ends both touch each other's plastic sheathing. I'd try to make an ASCII drawing but the picture would be more confusing than helpful...... - Here is where we'll need the Nut Driver and the Vise Grips, Line up the Chrome clamps on the exposed cable a 1/4 inch or so from the ends. So that there is a 1/4 inch of cable showing between the clamp and the plastic sheathing. Hopefully this makes sense... - Use the Vise Grip to hold the clamp in place, this will also give you some leverage when your tightening it with the Nut Driver. - When it's tight. Put the Rubber section over the area and loosely clamp it on. Here's where we get to start the car up and re-measure with the multimeter :-) Just make sure the cable is not exposed anywhere!!! Don't forget to hook up the battery..... I'm going to assume success...... - Ok, NOW DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! - Take the rubber off the cable. - I put a piece of cardboard behind the working area of the cable and sprayed it heavily with Lithium Grease. It's all I had at the time. - I think a good heavy hand applied grease might work better here, glop it on thick. This will hopefully slow down the corrosion enough that next time it happens, you won't own the car :-) Where in the home stretch...... - Put the rubber section back over the cable and make sure it's big enough to cover the whole thing and then some. Secure it with the other 2 cable clamps. - Wrap nice and tight and completely with Plastic Electrical tape, This will help keep out any moisture as well as keep it all in a nice bundle :-) RECONNECT BATTERY AND TRY IT AGAIN. - Wouldn't want to put everything back together and find we missed something. - Everything working ok ? Yes, Excellent, put it all back together, sit back have a couple more beers!!! Hopefully my anguish over this will help somebody else save some time, money and frustration. I know other people on the list over the years have saved me lot's of both :-) Steve Kramer wrote: > > Guys, I'm having an intermittent problem with the voltage coming off of > channel 11 in the diagnostic. here's the story > > - 1990 Audi v8 157k original alternator > - replaced battery in January with a Sears International Battery ( had > great success with this battery over Audi's battery) > - just added a subwoofer > - checked battery connections yesterday - vent was not hooked up > > a couple weeks ago, I noticed that the cat , battery and brake light were > dimly lit. There is no squealing noise on the belt, however, the engine is > making more noise than before. > > As a non techie - my thinking is basically when you turn on the car - these > lights turn on until your car turns over - then they go out. In this > situation I believe the alternator is not giving enought voltage Revving the > engine cause these dim lights to go out - as if the alternator is reving up > and providing the proper voltage. > > Sometimes , the car starts up normally and these lights are out . Head > voltage is 13.8 . When the lights are dim - the voltage is 11.8 > > Another possibility is that when this happens is with my temp / gas guage > goes dead. . > > Any thoughts > > Steve Kramer > 1990 V8 q > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 1 08:19:55 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Thu Apr 1 08:19:55 2004 Subject: [V8] charging problem/ alternator In-Reply-To: <406C129D.BDD50186@sun.com> Message-ID: <000601c417ec$00cc0d70$6500a8c0@headlappy> I can just hear Steve B right now screaming "knowledge Base!!!" Shawn Head From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 08:30:26 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 08:30:28 2004 Subject: [V8] charging problem/ alternator References: <000601c417ec$00cc0d70$6500a8c0@headlappy> Message-ID: <406C196B.3289322F@sun.com> Shawn Head wrote: > > I can just hear Steve B right now screaming "knowledge Base!!!" > > Shawn Head > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! okay, okay.... I'm doing it..... :) Mike, -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 08:34:29 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 08:34:30 2004 Subject: [V8] charging problem/ alternator References: <000601c417ec$00cc0d70$6500a8c0@headlappy> Message-ID: <406C1A5E.C125B319@sun.com> Shawn Head wrote: > > I can just hear Steve B right now screaming "knowledge Base!!!" > > Shawn Head > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! trying to remember my login and passwd... -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 08:50:38 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 08:50:40 2004 Subject: [V8] charging problem/ alternator References: <000901c4175a$244c9270$6701a8c0@Macpaq> <406C129D.BDD50186@sun.com> Message-ID: <406C1E26.1040D69A@sun.com> Okay, Just added this to the knowledge base, but the ascii art didn't come out too well :( if anybody knows how to fix it, be my guest.... Can we add pics to the knowledge article ? Mike Michael Larosa Jr wrote: > > Steve, > > The dash light power comes from the battery cable between the pressed clamp > under your passenger floor and the battery. This means it may be related > to the dreaded green corrosion in the clamp.... > > Check voltage at the alt, the jumpstart post and the battery at idle.... > > how close are they ? > > This is my infamous...... > > ====================================================================== > > "Gory Details" > > for > > "Troubleshooting and Correcting the dreaded > 12.5 at the Battery - 13.7 at the Alternator" > > Some Potential Symptoms: > > A) Car starts and runs fine, The dash gage measures a little low, but > there aren't any numbers on the voltage gage, so you don't really > notice it's been slowly sitting more and more to the left..... > > B) Every time you run the A/C for an extended time the car won't turn > over the next time you stop and try to start it again....... > > C) Battery dies for no apparent reason, you jump start it and leave all > electricals off, because you wan't the battery to charge back up... > you go to your friendly mechanic... and what does he/she do ? pops the > hood (Not the back seat) and measures the voltage at the jump start post > (Which is a direct connect to the alternator) and low and behold the > output is 13.7..... they announce looks ok to me, maybe you need a new > battery ? ) $50.- to $100.- bucks (New Battery) and a week later, it > does it again!!! Doooooohhhhhhhhh!!!! > > Ok, The reason the A/C kills the battery in this instance is when you > turn on the A/C it turns the electric radiator fan onto hurricane mode > and it sucks huge amounts of juice from the battery. As it is when > the electrical system is working properly it barely keeps up to the > current draw. With the battery barely getting any charge from the alternator > the battery dies fairly quickly. > > Next Ok, Why does the jump start post measure 13.7 and the battery 12.5 ? > because the wiring harness for the charging system goes like so: > > Alternator LUG--Cable-- Jump start Post > | > | > C > a > b > l > e > | > | > Firewall > | > | > *** Pressed Clamp (Your problem area) > | > | > |------- link to dash cluster gage > | > | > Battery > > Problem: > > The "Pressed Clamp" is a metal tube about 3-4" long in which the battery > cable is inserted into one end and the alternator cable inserted into > the other. Then's it's pressed together to form a connection. > > Inside the clamp it get's corroded with the green goo just like your > battery post's used to when you owned cars where the battery was under > the hood :-) > > Vehicles that can be affected: 5000/100/200 (likely the V8 as well...) > > Tools Needed: > > Multimeter w/point attachment (Digital preferred) > Wrench to disconnect battery > Seriously heavy duty wire cutters to cut battery cable > Wire Brush > (4) Chrome hose clamps - (3/8" wide) x 1.5dia" or so > (with hex head preffered) > Vise Grips > Nut Driver w/socket that fits above hose clamps > Grease or Lithium grease in a spray can will do > 4" x 4" piece of 1/16" thick rubber - I used old motorcycle tube > A Printout of these instructions when you start(Seriously) > (You'll be taking notes.....) > > Sharp Carpenters Knife or New Razor Blades.....something good > enough to cut the plastic of the battery cable. > Plastic Electrical tape > Cold Beer - (Optional) > > Everything else but the Beer is a must, I would read the procedure > to get an understanding of what's involved and why you want all this > stuff before you start. > > This way, If you don't have some of the tools, you may be able to > come up with some suitable substitutes in advance. > > Troubleshooting: > > Background.... I've been through this on my wife's 89 100 Avant 125k miles, > after 2 voltage regulators(1 cheapy $25.-, and a $50.- Bosch), 1 Alternator > belt, and 2 alternators... (Don't get one from PEP Boy's, mine lasted > 1 day then died.) and a tremendous amount of cursing.... I decided to > devote a day to getting to the bottom of this debacle myself. > > _____________________ These spots are for you to write down > your findings as we explore the problem. > > Preliminaries: > > - Take out the back seat. > > - Open the hood. > > - Front of car on ramps helps, but is not required. Remember to block > tires and use emergency brake, unless of course you have bad emergency > brake levers on your rear calipers, then DON'T grab the emergency brake, > just block the tires :-) > > 1) Measure battery with the car OFF ______________ > Your Target is (12.8 +/- .1) > > -If it's below target, it's not being charged sufficiently or > the battery is on the way out. How far along is the battery > in it's projected life span ? > > (Believe it or not I had Sears check the battery with a Bear machine > of some sort that put a load on it, looked ok, then they charged it > and gave me a loaner battery for a few day's... whilst mine sat around > for a few day's to see if it discharged. It didn't, battery was ok) > > Keep reading... > > 2) Measure at Jump start post with car OFF ____________________. > Your Target (12.8 +/- .2) > > -If battery measures 12.8 and jump start post is at 12.5 or > less your losing voltage from a bad connection in the > cable somewhere.... Keep Reading... > > START YOUR ENGINES!!!!, Imagine checkered flag waving... sorry, getting > off track... > > 3) Grab the multimeter with a pin point end. Measure voltage at the > jump start post with car RUNNING ___________________. > Your Target (13.7 +/- .2) > > -If voltage fluctuates wildly, as in more than .5 volts, possible > regulator. $25.- (Cheap..) to $50.- (Bosch) > > -If voltage less than 13.7, I'd bring it somewhere reputable and have > the alternator tested. It should put out an easy 13.7, could be as > easy as new brushes. > > -KEEP READING, you may have more problems.... let's get 'em all > checked out while where here. > > 4) Measure at Battery with car RUNNING ______________. > Your Target (13.7 +/- .2) > > -If 3) meets target, but you fail here with less than 13.5, > keep reading..... > > SHUT THE CAR OFF. > > How'd you do ? you probably failed somewhere or you wouldn't be > doing this on a sat/sun instead of watching the ball game with > a frosty beer in hand... :-) > > OK, If you failed and got the dreaded 13.7 Alt - 12.5 Bat, again... > Keep Reading..... > > The Fun Part... > > Follow the Positive cable from the alternator, it travels across > the top of the passenger side frame rail into the firewall at the > passenger side foot well. > > Pull up the carpet on the passenger foot well. > > On the top of the foot well on the right side, you'll see the > cable coming through. > > Start up the car and poke that positive side pointy end on the > Multimeter through the cable to check the positive voltage. Check it > before and after the "Pressed Clamp". The "Pressed Clamp" Looks like > a 3 - 4" long by maybe .5" thick shrink wrap section on the cable. > > On the wife's car it measured 13.7 on the alternator side and 12.5 > on the battery side..... > > If this is what you get, go grab a frosty out of the fridge, you've > just figured out the problem :-) > > ===================================================================== > > Whilst drinking said Beer, you get to decide do I go out and buy a > new cable from Audi for $430.- bucks or do we fix this puppy > right know with all the Tools/Supplies outlined above ? > > I vote we get it over with and continue. > > - First things first, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!!!!!!!!! > > - Back to the passenger footwell... pull on the cable and see if > there is any slack. > > - Your gonna need about 3-4 inches. > > - If NOT, there is a clamp near the alternator where the cable is > bolted in. Unbolt it from there and you'll get the slack. > > Back in the car at the passenger foot well.... > > - Once you have the slack, get the Big wire cutters and cut out the > Dreaded "Pressed Clamp". Making sure to cut as close to the clamp > as you can. > > - Strip approx 2" of insulation from both sides. > > - Put the 2 Chrome clamps on each cable loosely. > > - Put the 2 cables side by side so that the bare ends both touch > each other's plastic sheathing. I'd try to make an ASCII drawing > but the picture would be more confusing than helpful...... > > - Here is where we'll need the Nut Driver and the Vise Grips, Line up the > Chrome clamps on the exposed cable a 1/4 inch or so from the ends. > So that there is a 1/4 inch of cable showing between the clamp and > the plastic sheathing. Hopefully this makes sense... > > - Use the Vise Grip to hold the clamp in place, this will also give you > some leverage when your tightening it with the Nut Driver. > > - When it's tight. Put the Rubber section over the area and loosely clamp > it on. > > Here's where we get to start the car up and re-measure with the > multimeter :-) Just make sure the cable is not exposed anywhere!!! > > Don't forget to hook up the battery..... > > I'm going to assume success...... > > - Ok, NOW DISCONNECT THE BATTERY! > > - Take the rubber off the cable. > > - I put a piece of cardboard behind the working area of the cable and > sprayed it heavily with Lithium Grease. It's all I had at the time. > > - I think a good heavy hand applied grease might work better here, glop > it on thick. This will hopefully slow down the corrosion enough that > next time it happens, you won't own the car :-) > > Where in the home stretch...... > > - Put the rubber section back over the cable and make sure it's big > enough to cover the whole thing and then some. Secure it with the > other 2 cable clamps. > > - Wrap nice and tight and completely with Plastic Electrical tape, This > will help keep out any moisture as well as keep it all in a nice bundle :-) > > RECONNECT BATTERY AND TRY IT AGAIN. > > - Wouldn't want to put everything back together and find we missed > something. > > - Everything working ok ? Yes, Excellent, put it all back together, > sit back have a couple more beers!!! > > Hopefully my anguish over this will help somebody else save some time, money > and frustration. I know other people on the list over the years have > saved me lot's of both :-) > > Steve Kramer wrote: > > > > Guys, I'm having an intermittent problem with the voltage coming off of > > channel 11 in the diagnostic. here's the story > > > > - 1990 Audi v8 157k original alternator > > - replaced battery in January with a Sears International Battery ( had > > great success with this battery over Audi's battery) > > - just added a subwoofer > > - checked battery connections yesterday - vent was not hooked up > > > > a couple weeks ago, I noticed that the cat , battery and brake light were > > dimly lit. There is no squealing noise on the belt, however, the engine is > > making more noise than before. > > > > As a non techie - my thinking is basically when you turn on the car - these > > lights turn on until your car turns over - then they go out. In this > > situation I believe the alternator is not giving enought voltage Revving the > > engine cause these dim lights to go out - as if the alternator is reving up > > and providing the proper voltage. > > > > Sometimes , the car starts up normally and these lights are out . Head > > voltage is 13.8 . When the lights are dim - the voltage is 11.8 > > > > Another possibility is that when this happens is with my temp / gas guage > > goes dead. . > > > > Any thoughts > > > > Steve Kramer > > 1990 V8 q > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Audifans V8 mailing list > > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 08:56:55 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 08:56:56 2004 Subject: [V8] It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... Message-ID: <406C1FA0.9C17610A@sun.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470705004 -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 09:07:41 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 09:07:42 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... References: <406C1FA0.9C17610A@sun.com> Message-ID: <406C222A.A659C829@sun.com> okay, curiosity is getting the better of me.... what are the 5 speed specific things to look out for ? other than see where the rev limiter is in 1st, 2nd and 3rd :) Gonna take it for a spin tonight... Mike Michael Larosa Jr wrote: > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470705004 > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Ryandfreise at aol.com Thu Apr 1 09:22:32 2004 From: Ryandfreise at aol.com (Ryandfreise@aol.com) Date: Thu Apr 1 09:22:34 2004 Subject: [V8] Steering column problem Message-ID: <42.4a6631fb.2d9d7fa4@aol.com> I have a question about how the steering column is put together. I hope someone might be able to answer it but it is somewhat of an oddball problem so..... Since day one of my ownership the entire column has had some play, you can grab the wheel and wiggle it around. I am pretty sure it was caused by the thief who busted out the ignition switch. Anyway I attempted to fix it last week (the last guy who inspected it noticed it) and all was well for about 2 days (thankfully this was just long enough to get a sticker). After taking it all apart I found that the bracket that bolts to the dash structure is in 2 pieces. If you have the FA and want to see the piece in question it is in MG 4 SG 19 ill.43-07 item 2. The bracket looks like it starts out as 2 pieces that have an interlocking wedge shape and it looks like they are bonded together with some substance (epoxy, plastic I couldn't really tell) that is forced down through 2 small holes in the top. I had thought at first (prior to removal) that the pieces were just wedged together and that the wedges themselves were broken causing the slop. I now know different. It was a PITA to take apart with the bracket in 2 pieces and I imagine it will be much worse as a unit. Anyway as I see it I have 2 options 1. take it all apart again, do what I can to remove the old bonding agent, and rebond or 2. buy a used bracket. Anyone been through this before? Anyone not done this but have ideas? TIA Ryan From Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil Thu Apr 1 09:28:15 2004 From: Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil (Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC) Date: Thu Apr 1 09:28:16 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 5-speed performance Message-ID: <200404011430.i31EUN09019519@legolas.tinker.af.mil> I am curious if anyone out there has the performance figures for a 1991 V8 5-speed. I have the figures for the 200 20V, and I wanted to compare them. I am curious just how much of a difference the 5-speed makes off the line, and in trap speeds. Thanks, Tony Hoffman From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 09:51:18 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 09:51:20 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 5-speed performance References: <200404011430.i31EUN09019519@legolas.tinker.af.mil> Message-ID: <406C2C5F.6A9C2C8B@sun.com> I think 0-60 was like 6.5 seconds.... There was an article in Road & Track back in early 90 I think.... before they made me clean up my office, I had the mag in my desk :) Mike, Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC wrote: > > I am curious if anyone out there has the performance figures for a 1991 V8 > 5-speed. I have the figures for the 200 20V, and I wanted to compare them. I > am curious just how much of a difference the 5-speed makes off the line, and > in trap speeds. > > Thanks, > Tony Hoffman > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Thu Apr 1 11:06:29 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Thu Apr 1 11:06:30 2004 Subject: [Fwd: [V8] 91 V8 5 speed in NH....] References: Message-ID: <406C3DFD.4B7876B2@sun.com> anybody got an open carfax account ? if yes, appreciate if ya could run this vin for me :) WAUKE54C7MN001289 Thanks! Mike LaRosa > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: [V8] Re: It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... > Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 09:07:38 -0500 > From: Michael Larosa Jr > Reply-To: Mc.Larosa@Sun.COM > To: v8list > References: <406C1FA0.9C17610A@sun.com> > > okay, > > curiosity is getting the better of me.... what are the 5 speed specific > things to look out for ? > > other than see where the rev limiter is in 1st, 2nd and 3rd :) > > Gonna take it for a spin tonight... > > Mike > > Michael Larosa Jr wrote: > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470705004 > > -- > > > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From lundabo at msn.com Thu Apr 1 11:46:33 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Thu Apr 1 11:46:34 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... Message-ID: Mike, Having a 1990 5spd in the family for 14 years, I can say there are no unique "problems" to the V8 5spd. In fact, I often read the posts on this list about cars going into "limp" mode and have no idea what you guys are talking about as there appears to be no communication between the manual shift and the ECU. I caution you--don't test drive the car you'll buy it! They really are a blast. The sound of the V8 winding out to 7k is intoxicating. good luck. Bill >From: Michael Larosa Jr >Reply-To: Mc.Larosa@Sun.COM >To: v8list >Subject: [V8] Re: It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... >Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 09:07:38 -0500 > >okay, > >curiosity is getting the better of me.... what are the 5 speed specific >things to look out for ? > >other than see where the rev limiter is in 1st, 2nd and 3rd :) > >Gonna take it for a spin tonight... > >Mike > > >Michael Larosa Jr wrote: > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2470705004 > > -- > > > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > >-- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 >_/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Get rid of annoying pop-up ads with the new MSN Toolbar – FREE! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200414ave/direct/01/ From irnstrw at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 11:55:33 2004 From: irnstrw at yahoo.com (Michael Thomas) Date: Thu Apr 1 11:55:34 2004 Subject: [V8] Scamming for our cars, parts and money Message-ID: <20040401165531.75324.qmail@web13126.mail.yahoo.com> Just to let all the listers know, so far I have received 4 requests for my V8 and 2 requests for my extra BBS wheels from scammers through the Audifans MarketPlace ads I placed. I hope this is not the typical experience of others and that others recognize these as scams. Regards, Michael T. '93 Pearl __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ From Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil Thu Apr 1 12:15:46 2004 From: Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil (Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC) Date: Thu Apr 1 12:15:47 2004 Subject: [V8] Scamming for our cars, parts and money Message-ID: <200404011717.i31HHt09010298@legolas.tinker.af.mil> I have also received one, for my VR6 just today. I deleted it since Eddie Dial alerted us to it. I hope this doesn't become a continuous thing, but we'll have to see. Tony Hoffman -----Original Message----- From: Michael Thomas [mailto:irnstrw@yahoo.com] Sent: 01-Apr-2004 10:56 AM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Scamming for our cars, parts and money Just to let all the listers know, so far I have received 4 requests for my V8 and 2 requests for my extra BBS wheels from scammers through the Audifans MarketPlace ads I placed. I hope this is not the typical experience of others and that others recognize these as scams. Regards, Michael T. '93 Pearl __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From quattro_k at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 12:26:45 2004 From: quattro_k at yahoo.com (Shiv) Date: Thu Apr 1 12:26:47 2004 Subject: [V8] Scamming for our cars, parts and money Message-ID: <20040401172643.66068.qmail@web40909.mail.yahoo.com> I also got 2 requests for my V8 transmission listed up on audifans.com It's probably an April fools thing goin on... __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ From jward at mti-interactive.com Thu Apr 1 13:06:14 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Thu Apr 1 13:06:16 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... Message-ID: So I was wondering... What is the largest number of V8s you guys have seen in any one place (other than Dave's house or the AC wrecking yard)? :-) I see pictures all the time on AudiV8.com with large V8 gatherings in Germany (http://www.audiv8.com/german/gallery/gallery_stammtisch.html) and was wondering if anyone has photos of V8 get togethers in the US. You guys want to have a contest for the biggest V8 gathering? I would be happy to post the pictures on my website. :-) If anyone in the Pacific Northwest is interested in a gathering near Portland, shoot me an email and perhaps we can put something together towards the end of this month. Regards, - Jeremy From eddie_dial at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 13:11:32 2004 From: eddie_dial at hotmail.com (Eddie Dial) Date: Thu Apr 1 13:11:34 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... Message-ID: Is there anyone else in UTAH who has one? Not normally a car you would see out here. The mormons like to buy mini vans. >From: "Jeremy Ward" >To: >Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... >Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 10:05:23 -0800 > >So I was wondering... What is the largest number of V8s you guys have >seen in any one place (other than Dave's house or the AC wrecking yard)? >:-) > >I see pictures all the time on AudiV8.com with large V8 gatherings in >Germany (http://www.audiv8.com/german/gallery/gallery_stammtisch.html) >and was wondering if anyone has photos of V8 get togethers in the US. > >You guys want to have a contest for the biggest V8 gathering? I would >be happy to post the pictures on my website. :-) > >If anyone in the Pacific Northwest is interested in a gathering near >Portland, shoot me an email and perhaps we can put something together >towards the end of this month. > >Regards, > >- Jeremy > >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Get reliable access on MSN 9 Dial-up. 3 months for the price of 1! (Limited-time offer) http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&pgmarket=en-us&ST=1/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/ From eddie_dial at hotmail.com Thu Apr 1 13:28:28 2004 From: eddie_dial at hotmail.com (Eddie Dial) Date: Thu Apr 1 13:28:29 2004 Subject: [V8] It died...Only for a second. Message-ID: Hey everybody, I started Charlene right up this morning. No problems drove down the street she died. But she then started right back up and no problems for the rest of my 15 mile journey. Any ideas? _________________________________________________________________ Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage. Multiple plans available. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/ From ingo at waratap.com Thu Apr 1 13:51:09 2004 From: ingo at waratap.com (Ingo D. Rautenberg) Date: Thu Apr 1 13:51:11 2004 Subject: [V8] It died...Only for a second. References: Message-ID: <000901c41819$d2fd9660$52bab1d0@ingo> Eddie, Could be a few things, but if she just didn't hold idle, then check/clean contacts at idle stabiliser and or you can also remove and clean it with a throttle body spray. -Ingo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eddie Dial" To: Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 1:28 PM Subject: [V8] It died...Only for a second. > Hey everybody, > > I started Charlene right up this morning. No problems drove down the street > she died. But she then started right back up and no problems for the rest of > my 15 mile journey. Any ideas? > > _________________________________________________________________ > Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage. Multiple plans available. > http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/ > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.642 / Virus Database: 410 - Release Date: 3/24/2004 From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Thu Apr 1 14:21:47 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Apr 1 14:21:47 2004 Subject: [V8] charging problem/ alternator Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F015C7D0C@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... you can attach files to items in the KB ... here's an example of one I did: http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/UrqBuildSequenceInfo I don't think it is possible to make the pictures appear in the text. BTW, Thanks for taking the time to add this to the KB! Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > Can we add pics to the knowledge article ? From jward at mti-interactive.com Thu Apr 1 14:30:05 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Thu Apr 1 14:30:07 2004 Subject: [V8] FW: Press Release: Audi unveils new engines Message-ID: I just got this from a very reliable source... -----Original Message----- From: AUDI-NW-owner@u.washington.edu [mailto:AUDI-NW-owner@u.washington.edu] On Behalf Of Tony Baruffi Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 11:21 AM To: northwest audi enthusiasts Subject: Press Release: Audi unveils new engines Just got this clip from Audiworld "Ingolstadt - Due to slipping sales and increased controversy surrounding the 1.8T engine Audi has announced the replacement for the 1.8T engine. The replacement engine is a new direct injection 2.2L turbocharged 5 cylinder engine. The engine is being produced by quattro GmbH and will arrive in dealers as a 04.5 mid year release. The new 2.2DT (Direct inject Turbo) will produce 245hp. Mid year changes also include larger brakes front/rear and dual intercoolers. Audi also noted that the 3.0 will be replaced with a 3.6L for MY2005." Please contact your dealer for further questions. Details are available in early April for you fools. Anthony Baruffi CFA Sirach Capital Management Phone: 206-624-3800 Fax: 206-621-9177 E-Mail: abaruffi@sirachcapital.com From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Thu Apr 1 14:30:48 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Apr 1 14:30:49 2004 Subject: [V8] TPC??? Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F015C7D0D@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... I have the TPC Specials link set up on AvantGo on my PDA ... I noticed an error message generated the other day, so I decided to look into it. It appears that http://www.thepartsconnection.com is gone! Anyone know what happened? Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) From v8q at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 1 14:41:30 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Thu Apr 1 14:41:31 2004 Subject: [V8] FW: Press Release: Audi unveils new engines References: Message-ID: <406C70FE.1050400@bellsouth.net> And we know what day it is... Jeremy Ward wrote: >I just got this from a very reliable source... > >-----Original Message----- >From: AUDI-NW-owner@u.washington.edu >[mailto:AUDI-NW-owner@u.washington.edu] On Behalf Of Tony Baruffi >Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 11:21 AM >To: northwest audi enthusiasts >Subject: Press Release: Audi unveils new engines > >Just got this clip from Audiworld > >"Ingolstadt - Due to slipping sales and increased controversy >surrounding >the 1.8T engine Audi has announced the replacement for the 1.8T engine. >The >replacement engine is a new direct injection 2.2L turbocharged 5 >cylinder >engine. The engine is being produced by quattro GmbH and will arrive in >dealers as a 04.5 mid year release. > >The new 2.2DT (Direct inject Turbo) will produce 245hp. Mid year changes > >also include larger brakes front/rear and dual intercoolers. Audi also >noted > >that the 3.0 will be replaced with a 3.6L for MY2005." > >Please contact your dealer for further questions. Details are available >in >early April for you fools. > > > >Anthony Baruffi CFA >Sirach Capital Management >Phone: 206-624-3800 >Fax: 206-621-9177 >E-Mail: abaruffi@sirachcapital.com > > > >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From thequattroking at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 14:44:58 2004 From: thequattroking at yahoo.com (quattro + 5 or 8 = fun) Date: Thu Apr 1 14:44:58 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This makes no sense (to me), but I will bring it up anyway. I have heard rumors that the rear main seal will go out easier on a manual vs. an auto. Maybe there is some truth to that as I have gone through 3 rear main seals in 197K miles on my 5 speed. Also, make sure the 1st three syncros are working as they should. Second gear is the most problematic. Usually not a problem if the PO shifted it nicely. But, banging through the gears will wear it out fast. This is not unique to the V8, but covers that style of tranny (200 20v, V8q 5, what else??). Shayne Bay Area, CA Eastern WA State PARTING: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 PARTING: 1986 Audi 4000 CS quattro > > Mike, > > Having a 1990 5spd in the family for 14 years, I can say there are no unique > "problems" to the V8 5spd. In fact, I often read the posts on this list > about cars going into "limp" mode and have no idea what you guys are talking > about as there appears to be no communication between the manual shift and > the ECU. I caution you--don't test drive the car you'll buy it! They > really are a blast. The sound of the V8 winding out to 7k is intoxicating. > > good luck. > > Bill >> >> curiosity is getting the better of me.... what are the 5 speed specific >> things to look out for ? >> >> other than see where the rev limiter is in 1st, 2nd and 3rd :) >> >> Gonna take it for a spin tonight... >> From thequattroking at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 14:55:39 2004 From: thequattroking at yahoo.com (quattro + 5 or 8 = fun) Date: Thu Apr 1 14:55:40 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Driving through SLC just before Xmas, I saw a nice silver one. Shayne Bay Area, CA Eastern WA State PARTING: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 PARTING: 1986 Audi 4000 CS quattro > From: "Eddie Dial" > Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 11:11:29 -0700 > To: jward@mti-interactive.com, v8@audifans.com > Subject: RE: [V8] V8 Gatherings... > > Is there anyone else in UTAH who has one? Not normally a car you would see > out here. The mormons like to buy mini vans. > > >> From: "Jeremy Ward" >> To: >> Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... >> Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2004 10:05:23 -0800 >> >> So I was wondering... What is the largest number of V8s you guys have >> seen in any one place (other than Dave's house or the AC wrecking yard)? >> :-) >> >> I see pictures all the time on AudiV8.com with large V8 gatherings in >> Germany (http://www.audiv8.com/german/gallery/gallery_stammtisch.html) >> and was wondering if anyone has photos of V8 get togethers in the US. >> >> You guys want to have a contest for the biggest V8 gathering? I would >> be happy to post the pictures on my website. :-) >> >> If anyone in the Pacific Northwest is interested in a gathering near >> Portland, shoot me an email and perhaps we can put something together >> towards the end of this month. >> >> Regards, >> >> - Jeremy >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Audifans V8 mailing list >> Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >> Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >> Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >> http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >> Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >> contributions welcome! > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get reliable access on MSN 9 Dial-up. 3 months for the price of 1! > (Limited-time offer) > http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&pgmarket=en-us&ST=1/go/onm00200361ave/di > rect/01/ > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Apr 1 16:27:58 2004 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Apr 1 16:27:59 2004 Subject: [V8] TPC??? In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F015C7D0D@ca1xpr05-backup.k la-tencor.com> Message-ID: <4.1.20040401162438.00b0f450@traverse.com> Reportedly it's a server issue regarding the website. Don't know if e-mail works, but other listers say they've reached Rod by phone OK. At 11:30 AM 4/1/2004 -0800, Buchholz, Steven wrote: >... I have the TPC Specials link set up on AvantGo on my PDA ... I noticed >an error message generated the other day, so I decided to look into it. It >appears that http://www.thepartsconnection.com is gone! Anyone know what >happened? > >Steve B >San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! From kentmclean at mindspring.com Thu Apr 1 16:29:15 2004 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Thu Apr 1 16:29:16 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: It's baaaccckkk.... 91 V8 5 speed in NH.... In-Reply-To: <20040401142235.57FC1AC12D@audifans.com> References: <20040401142235.57FC1AC12D@audifans.com> Message-ID: <406C8971.9010900@mindspring.com> Michael Larosa Jr wrote: > Gonna take it for a spin tonight... Be careful -- that's a slippery slope. When you get back into your car, you might not be so happy. Kent who's not so happy with his 200 after having driven a V8 From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 19:04:08 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Thu Apr 1 19:04:09 2004 Subject: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H Message-ID: <20040402000406.71862.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Listers, In the 13th pick they show the driver side inside door & on the handle (to open the door) on the right there's a switch it looks like a window switch but it shows a pick of a key on the switch whats this? Thanks Ron 87 5ksq many mods 90 200tqa many mods 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Porsche "Big Reds", Stebro exhaust __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ From quattro_k at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 19:58:47 2004 From: quattro_k at yahoo.com (Shiv) Date: Thu Apr 1 19:58:49 2004 Subject: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H Message-ID: <20040402005845.2903.qmail@web40904.mail.yahoo.com> That switch with a key on it is the central locking switch that unlocks and locks all the doors as well as the trunk (as long as the trunk cylinder is in the horizontal position) from the inside of the car. It came on the '92+ cars, but I guess the PO did some mods to add it in. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ From DasWolfen at aol.com Thu Apr 1 20:11:05 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Thu Apr 1 20:11:06 2004 Subject: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H Message-ID: <7d.4a8ca994.2d9e1789@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/04 7:58:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, quattro_k@yahoo.com writes: > That switch with a key on it is the central locking > switch that unlocks and locks all the doors as well as > the trunk (as long as the trunk cylinder is in the > horizontal position) from the inside of the car. It > came on the '92+ cars, but I guess the PO did some > mods to add it in. > Incorrect, it was integrated into the 91 model at the same time as the key controlled windows and sunroof. 92 was when the keyless remote was added. From v8q at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 1 20:12:09 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Thu Apr 1 20:12:10 2004 Subject: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H References: <20040402005845.2903.qmail@web40904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <406CBE7D.7030205@bellsouth.net> Actually, that convenience option began on the 91 models, along with window/sunroof closure via key - in 92 they added keyless entry and the reverse rear side mirror dip/mirror adjusment tied to seat memory Shiv wrote: >That switch with a key on it is the central locking >switch that unlocks and locks all the doors as well as >the trunk (as long as the trunk cylinder is in the >horizontal position) from the inside of the car. It >came on the '92+ cars, but I guess the PO did some >mods to add it in. > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway >http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From gegroebner at msn.com Thu Apr 1 20:16:28 2004 From: gegroebner at msn.com (gegroebner@msn.com) Date: Thu Apr 1 20:16:29 2004 Subject: [V8] No windows or Sunroof Message-ID: I need help!!!! My power windows and sunroof don't open. I checked all relays and are fine. I removed the boot between door and fender, found several broken wires, so I spliced them together, still no power!!! I wounder if I did'nt make a good connection on one or more of the wires that I spliced together.QUESTION: CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT THE COLOR CODE IS FOR THE WIRES FOR THE WINDOWS AND ROOF?? THANK YOU!!!!!! ------ Original Message ----- From: RichardMor@aol.com Sent: Fri, Mar 5, 2004 2:52pm To: Subject: [V8] UFO Pads <> Would someone advise which pads produce little dust? I remember the set before the one I'm using now would blacken the wheels within a day. What I'm using now I bought from Blau, but can't tell them which ones they are. Thanks, Richard Morris Renton, WA 90 V8 Auto Dk Blue/Dk Blue (still for sale....price is dropping) _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From quattro_k at yahoo.com Thu Apr 1 20:51:59 2004 From: quattro_k at yahoo.com (Shiv) Date: Thu Apr 1 20:52:00 2004 Subject: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H Message-ID: <20040402015157.83323.qmail@web40905.mail.yahoo.com> Ohhh yaaa! Sorry! It's one of those days... >__________________________________ Actually, that convenience option began on the 91 models, along with window/sunroof closure via key - in 92 they added keyless entry and the reverse rear side mirror dip/mirror adjusment tied to seat memory Shiv wrote: >That switch with a key on it is the central locking >switch that unlocks and locks all the doors as well as >the trunk (as long as the trunk cylinder is in the >horizontal position) from the inside of the car. It >came on the '92+ cars, but I guess the PO did some >mods to add it in. > >__________________________________ __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ From cwurts12 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 1 21:56:07 2004 From: cwurts12 at mindspring.com (Charles Wurts) Date: Thu Apr 1 21:56:08 2004 Subject: [V8] FW: Press Release: Audi unveils new engines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <476E312F-8451-11D8-9FE8-000A95CD7CD8@mindspring.com> Nice one.... I was biting all the way to the end; I loved that inline 5! On Apr 1, 2004, at 2:29 PM, Jeremy Ward wrote: > I just got this from a very reliable source... > > -----Original Message----- > From: AUDI-NW-owner@u.washington.edu > [mailto:AUDI-NW-owner@u.washington.edu] On Behalf Of Tony Baruffi > Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 11:21 AM > To: northwest audi enthusiasts > Subject: Press Release: Audi unveils new engines > > Just got this clip from Audiworld > > "Ingolstadt - Due to slipping sales and increased controversy > surrounding > the 1.8T engine Audi has announced the replacement for the 1.8T engine. > The > replacement engine is a new direct injection 2.2L turbocharged 5 > cylinder > engine. The engine is being produced by quattro GmbH and will arrive in > dealers as a 04.5 mid year release. > > The new 2.2DT (Direct inject Turbo) will produce 245hp. Mid year > changes > > also include larger brakes front/rear and dual intercoolers. Audi also > noted > > that the 3.0 will be replaced with a 3.6L for MY2005." > > Please contact your dealer for further questions. Details are available > in > early April for you fools. > > > > Anthony Baruffi CFA > Sirach Capital Management > Phone: 206-624-3800 > Fax: 206-621-9177 > E-Mail: abaruffi@sirachcapital.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Fri Apr 2 07:32:16 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Fri Apr 2 07:32:17 2004 Subject: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H References: <20040402000406.71862.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <406D5D48.D8BF6AA8@sun.com> 91's both auto and 5 speed have power lock buttons... Mike, Ron Wainwright wrote: > > Listers, > > In the 13th pick they show the driver side inside > door & > on the handle (to open the door) on the right there's > a switch it looks like a window switch but it shows a > pick of a key on the switch whats this? > Thanks > Ron > 87 5ksq many mods > 90 200tqa many mods > 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Porsche "Big Reds", Stebro exhaust > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway > http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Fri Apr 2 08:45:31 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Fri Apr 2 08:45:32 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F893A5507@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> > So I was wondering... What is the largest number of V8s you guys have > seen in any one place (other than Dave's house or the AC > wrecking yard)? I prefer to think of AC's wrecking yard as a Soul Redistribution Center. Easier on the stomach... As Steve pointed out, for a while we had three 5-speed V8s meeting at a local watering hole here in DE. One car has been sold, but replaced by other V8-powered stuff. It's especially cool because each of us have slightly different perspectives on ownership and maintenance, so the conversation is great. Not unlike this list I suppose. -DaveC. From DasWolfen at aol.com Fri Apr 2 10:20:07 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Fri Apr 2 10:20:09 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... Message-ID: <1e9.1cdb0183.2d9ede9f@aol.com> Maybe not the highest number but..... Two owners living three blocks apart...... One owns: Gobi Beige 93 V8, completely stock (wifes car) Ragusa Green 93 V8, heavily modified....about 370hp (daily driver) Cirrus (sp?) Blue 91 200q20v, insanely modified ...over 400hp (stress pill) (sidebar: If you ever wondered what the limit of a perfect set of UFO's is take a ride in a 400+ hp 200q20v) The other owns: Black 93 V8, mostly stock..17" wheels, 996/A8 brake setup (daily driver) Tornado Red 91 200q20v, mildly modified (daily driver) Black 91 200q20v, completely stock, and low miles Think about that....THREE 93 model V8's.....and THREE 91 200q20v's in a THREE block area.....and these two owners didnt even know each other till last year. Owner #2 purchased his V8 from AC after driving Owner #1's Green 93. From VERBRYCKJACK at aol.com Fri Apr 2 11:10:37 2004 From: VERBRYCKJACK at aol.com (VERBRYCKJACK@aol.com) Date: Fri Apr 2 11:10:38 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 Message-ID: My car is misbehaving after almost two years of flawless service. Here are the symptoms for about a week sometimes when I go to start it the flywhell starter grinds unless the car is jiggled. Next sometimes the car starts great no problem then other times I must give extra gas to get it up and running. After it is running no problem but yesterday I was driving and the car flet as if it were in third gear only and even if I manually changed the gear no dice . I went to the website to find the name of a mechanic I have talked to out in the San Fernando valley and that part of the site is down. I guess I would like help if this sounds like something common an I can do something or I live in Long Beach California and would like to get in touch with a machanic locally, since I have never had a problem and I change my own oil I have not had to go to a mechanic since I bought the car almost two years ago! I bought my car becuase while visiting my friends cousin in Austria we made some autobahn trips to munich for oktoberfest in his V8 five speed . The car fully loaded up and such we managed just under 170mph. I new I would have to get a V8 on my return to the US, of course I wanted the 5sp but it soon became apparent that it would probably not be possible I looked for about 6 months and then bought the 1990 V8 auto that I have now. Funny thing is my friend Brend wanted an automatic when he bought his V8 but according to him it is rare and he could only find 5sp's when he bought his car! In any case it would be greatly appreciated to get either advice on how to proceed myself or if someone knows a mechanic in the southren California area.Cheers George From jward at mti-interactive.com Fri Apr 2 11:14:26 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Fri Apr 2 11:14:27 2004 Subject: [V8] Adding a central locking switch Message-ID: If anyone is interested in adding a central lock switch to their 1990, you will need the new door handle cup, the switch, 2 relays, and a wiring diagram (see below). KT said once that there is a fitment problem with the new cup in the old door panel, but I was able to walk someone in Germany through the installation and he said that he didn't run into any fitment issues... Anyone willing to be a guinea pig? Switch P/N - 4A0 962 107 Door Handle Cup P/N - 893 837 019 A (Satin Black!) Looks like those who have the Graphite interior are in luck (parts counter), those who have Platinum, Travertine, or Nautic interiors are going to find a good used part, or have it 'painted'. Wiring Diagram: Check out this link - http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#vac You have to cut the Green with Blue stripe wire that runs from the vacuum door lock actuator in the driver's door to the vacuum pump (represented as the purple wire in the wiring diagram). You would then ground the middle leg of the new switch, and hook up the remaining 2 legs of the switch to the leads marked as '2 sec. pulse (-)' in the diagram. You may have to swap these 2 wires if the door locks when you want it to unlock, vise versa. Hope someone out there in TV Land finds this useful... Regards, - Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Michael Larosa Jr Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 4:32 AM To: Ron Wainwright Cc: v8@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H 91's both auto and 5 speed have power lock buttons... Mike, Ron Wainwright wrote: > > Listers, > > In the 13th pick they show the driver side inside > door & > on the handle (to open the door) on the right there's > a switch it looks like a window switch but it shows a > pick of a key on the switch whats this? From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Fri Apr 2 11:23:09 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Fri Apr 2 11:23:11 2004 Subject: [V8] Adding a central locking switch Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F893A5514@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Oh man -- I started reading this thinking it was for a diff locker switch! I was all, "Door cup? What's that got to do with it?" Hmmm. Oh well. Carry on. -DaveC. > -----Original Message----- > From: v8-bounces@audifans.com > [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf > Of Jeremy Ward > Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 11:14 AM > To: v8@audifans.com > Subject: [V8] Adding a central locking switch > > > If anyone is interested in adding a central lock switch to their 1990, > you will need the new door handle cup, the switch, 2 relays, and a > wiring diagram (see below). > > KT said once that there is a fitment problem with the new cup > in the old > door panel, but I was able to walk someone in Germany through the > installation and he said that he didn't run into any fitment issues... > Anyone willing to be a guinea pig? > > Switch P/N - 4A0 962 107 > Door Handle Cup P/N - 893 837 019 A (Satin Black!) > > Looks like those who have the Graphite interior are in luck (parts > counter), those who have Platinum, Travertine, or Nautic interiors are > going to find a good used part, or have it 'painted'. > > Wiring Diagram: > Check out this link - http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#vac You have to cut the Green with Blue stripe wire that runs from the vacuum door lock actuator in the driver's door to the vacuum pump (represented as the purple wire in the wiring diagram). You would then ground the middle leg of the new switch, and hook up the remaining 2 legs of the switch to the leads marked as '2 sec. pulse (-)' in the diagram. You may have to swap these 2 wires if the door locks when you want it to unlock, vise versa. Hope someone out there in TV Land finds this useful... Regards, - Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Michael Larosa Jr Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 4:32 AM To: Ron Wainwright Cc: v8@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] it's back 91 V8 5-spd in N.H 91's both auto and 5 speed have power lock buttons... Mike, Ron Wainwright wrote: > > Listers, > > In the 13th pick they show the driver side inside > door & > on the handle (to open the door) on the right there's > a switch it looks like a window switch but it shows a > pick of a key on the switch whats this? _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From jward at mti-interactive.com Fri Apr 2 11:59:58 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Fri Apr 2 11:59:59 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 Message-ID: George, Not sure what to say on the starter grinding... Could be that the solenoid isn't pushing the gear all the way into the flywheel teeth... There is also a problem with our flywheel teeth getting eaten, which is related to a failed Fuel Pressure Regulator ($50 part); one or more cylinders fill up with fuel (with the car sitting in the garage) and when you go to start it, it is unable to compress all that liquid and it strips your flywheel teeth. If this was the case, you would most likely be getting an 'Engine Speed Sensor' fault code thrown (see below). Automatic transmissions go into 'limp home mode' if they perceive a problem. It puts it in 3rd gear and keeps it there. When this happen it will usually light up all the letters on the dash (PRND321) but not always. When I was having problems with my idle switch, I got the limp mode, but no lights. Apparently there are some codes that turn the lights on and others that do not. You can pull the transmission codes as well, same as the engine codes (again, see below). Sounds like the issue with it dying might be the idle stabilizer valve. You might need to clean the ISV with throttle body cleaner, or perhaps you have a vacuum leak. Vacuum hoses and hose clamps are very inexpensive from the auto parts store. First thing you will want to do is pull the codes (very easy to do). Instructions can be found here: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/TROUBLE_SHOOTING/ecufv8.html If you have a California car (like I do), the check engine light is already hooked up, so you won't need to build a resistor / LED test lamp; just a jumper wire and watch the blinking Check Engine Light (and blinking PRND321 lights). Good luck, - Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of VERBRYCKJACK@aol.com Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 8:11 AM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Re: V8 Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 My car is misbehaving after almost two years of flawless service. Here are the symptoms for about a week sometimes when I go to start it the flywhell starter grinds unless the car is jiggled. Next sometimes the car starts great no problem then other times I must give extra gas to get it up and running. After it is running no problem but yesterday I was driving and the car flet as if it were in third gear only and even if I manually changed the gear no dice . I went to the website to find the name of a mechanic I have talked to out in the San Fernando valley and that part of the site is down. I guess I would like help if this sounds like something common an I can do something or I live in Long Beach California and would like to get in touch with a machanic locally, since I have never had a problem and I change my own oil I have not had to go to a mechanic since I bought the car almost two years ago! I bought my car becuase while visiting my friends cousin in Austria we made some autobahn trips to munich for oktoberfest in his V8 five speed . The car fully loaded up and such we managed just under 170mph. I new I would have to get a V8 on my return to the US, of course I wanted the 5sp but it soon became apparent that it would probably not be possible I looked for about 6 months and then bought the 1990 V8 auto that I have now. Funny thing is my friend Brend wanted an automatic when he bought his V8 but according to him it is rare and he could only find 5sp's when he bought his car! In any case it would be greatly appreciated to get either advice on how to proceed myself or if someone knows a mechanic in the southren California area.Cheers George _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From thequattroking at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 12:29:00 2004 From: thequattroking at yahoo.com (quattro + 5 or 8 = fun) Date: Fri Apr 2 12:29:01 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... In-Reply-To: <1e9.1cdb0183.2d9ede9f@aol.com> Message-ID: A feat even more amazing considering the locale. Shayne Bay Area, CA Eastern WA State PARTING: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 PARTING: 1986 Audi 4000 CS quattro > > Maybe not the highest number but..... > > Two owners living three blocks apart...... > > One owns: > Gobi Beige 93 V8, completely stock (wifes car) > > Ragusa Green 93 V8, heavily modified....about 370hp (daily driver) > > Cirrus (sp?) Blue 91 200q20v, insanely modified ...over 400hp (stress pill) > > (sidebar: If you ever wondered what the limit of a perfect set of UFO's is > take a ride in a 400+ hp 200q20v) > > The other owns: > Black 93 V8, mostly stock..17" wheels, 996/A8 brake setup (daily driver) > > Tornado Red 91 200q20v, mildly modified (daily driver) > > Black 91 200q20v, completely stock, and low miles > > > Think about that....THREE 93 model V8's.....and THREE 91 200q20v's in a > THREE block area.....and these two owners didnt even know each other till last > year. > > Owner #2 purchased his V8 from AC after driving Owner #1's Green 93. > From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 2 12:42:22 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 2 12:42:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F015C7EC8@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... two words ... Mike Rooney. For some reason I can't seem to find contact information for him, but he has a shop in southern California and he is extremely knowledgeable on the Audi V8 Quattro ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > either advice on how to proceed myself or if someone knows a > mechanic in the southren California area.Cheers George From lundabo at msn.com Fri Apr 2 14:26:03 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Fri Apr 2 14:26:03 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 Message-ID: Isn't Mike's shop named "Ingolstadt West?" I don't have contact info for him either, but I spoke to him a few times before I got turned on to this list and he was very helpful with the issues I had. Cheers. Bill >From: "Buchholz, Steven" >To: "'v8@audifans.com'" >Subject: RE: [V8] Re: V8 Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 >Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 09:42:13 -0800 > >... two words ... Mike Rooney. For some reason I can't seem to find >contact >information for him, but he has a shop in southern California and he is >extremely knowledgeable on the Audi V8 Quattro ... > >Steve B >San José, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > > either advice on how to proceed myself or if someone knows a > > mechanic in the southren California area.Cheers George >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Tax headache? MSN Money provides relief with tax tips, tools, IRS forms and more! http://moneycentral.msn.com/tax/workshop/welcome.asp From scott_matus at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 15:07:08 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Fri Apr 2 15:07:09 2004 Subject: [V8] Adding a central locking switch Message-ID: <20040402200705.70207.qmail@web14103.mail.yahoo.com> Check the E-bay car for a Pic of the switch on the door. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6055&item=2470472827 -------- Original message ------- Message: 9 Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2004 08:13:34 -0800 From: "Jeremy Ward" Subject: [V8] Adding a central locking switch To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" If anyone is interested in adding a central lock switch to their 1990, you will need the new door handle cup, the switch, 2 relays, and a wiring diagram (see below). KT said once that there is a fitment problem with the new cup in the old door panel, but I was able to walk someone in Germany through the installation and he said that he didn't run into any fitment issues... Anyone willing to be a guinea pig? Switch P/N - 4A0 962 107 Door Handle Cup P/N - 893 837 019 A (Satin Black!) Looks like those who have the Graphite interior are in luck (parts counter), those who have Platinum, Travertine, or Nautic interiors are going to find a good used part, or have it 'painted'. Wiring Diagram: Check out this link - http://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#vac You have to cut the Green with Blue stripe wire that runs from the vacuum door lock actuator in the driver's door to the vacuum pump (represented as the purple wire in the wiring diagram). You would then ground the middle leg of the new switch, and hook up the remaining 2 legs of the switch to the leads marked as '2 sec. pulse (-)' in the diagram. You may have to swap these 2 wires if the door locks when you want it to unlock, vise versa. Hope someone out there in TV Land finds this useful... Regards, - Jeremy --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From scott_matus at yahoo.com Fri Apr 2 15:09:44 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Fri Apr 2 15:09:45 2004 Subject: [V8] Current Family Album Message-ID: <20040402200940.3659.qmail@web14106.mail.yahoo.com> I did not receive any correspondance on obtaining a new FA. Where did others get their FA? I was hoping to find one by the weekend for the SEMA Show in LA. Well I'll run bling on this one. Any references will be welcome for getting a current FA with 2004 S4 and RS6. Thanks, Scott Matus 303 886-3185 2 - 90 V8s --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 2 17:27:25 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 2 17:27:27 2004 Subject: [V8] TPC??? Message-ID: <20040402222723.RGCD10441.mta9.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I noticed the website issue two days ago. The day before I had just received the box containing my recent order. It seems this is just a website issue. ============================================================ From: "Buchholz, Steven" Date: 2004/04/01 Thu PM 12:30:44 MST To: "'v8@audifans.com'" Subject: [V8] TPC??? ... I have the TPC Specials link set up on AvantGo on my PDA ... I noticed an error message generated the other day, so I decided to look into it. It appears that http://www.thepartsconnection.com is gone! Anyone know what happened? Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From mrv8q at netscape.net Fri Apr 2 21:06:41 2004 From: mrv8q at netscape.net (mrv8q@netscape.net) Date: Fri Apr 2 21:06:43 2004 Subject: [V8] Ingolstadt West Message-ID: <64C80195.232E6792.00014ED6@netscape.net> "William Gutierrez" wrote: >Isn't Mike's shop named "Ingolstadt West?" I don't have contact info for >him either, but I spoke to him a few times before I got turned on to this >list and he was very helpful with the issues I had. > Mike's shop is indeed Ingolstadt West; I should know, Mike serviced my V8 for 9 years...(yeah, I'm a lurker). Here's his number: 818.713.1953, he's in Canoga Park in the San Fernando Valley. I've seen cars flatbedded in from Vegas for Mike to work on! Absolutely the highest recommendation! Best,Kevin Browne __________________________________________________________________ Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register Netscape. Just the Net You Need. New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups. Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp From john at bysinger.net Fri Apr 2 21:38:52 2004 From: john at bysinger.net (John Bysinger) Date: Fri Apr 2 21:38:53 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Gatherings... In-Reply-To: <1e9.1cdb0183.2d9ede9f@aol.com> Message-ID: Just noticed about 2 weeks ago that the neighbors in the house behind us have a black v8 and another quattro model, 200? (I'm new to this, I'll ID it soon :) I still need to talk to them about it, I'm not sure if they've made the connection when I drive by and wave, and that I live right behind them. So that's 2 within a block, in the Seattle area (Kirkland) -John 90 v8q -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf Of DasWolfen@aol.com Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 7:20 AM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] V8 Gatherings... Maybe not the highest number but..... Two owners living three blocks apart...... One owns: Gobi Beige 93 V8, completely stock (wifes car) Ragusa Green 93 V8, heavily modified....about 370hp (daily driver) Cirrus (sp?) Blue 91 200q20v, insanely modified ...over 400hp (stress pill) (sidebar: If you ever wondered what the limit of a perfect set of UFO's is take a ride in a 400+ hp 200q20v) The other owns: Black 93 V8, mostly stock..17" wheels, 996/A8 brake setup (daily driver) Tornado Red 91 200q20v, mildly modified (daily driver) Black 91 200q20v, completely stock, and low miles Think about that....THREE 93 model V8's.....and THREE 91 200q20v's in a THREE block area.....and these two owners didnt even know each other till last year. Owner #2 purchased his V8 from AC after driving Owner #1's Green 93. _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From lorberg at adelphia.net Sat Apr 3 11:13:50 2004 From: lorberg at adelphia.net (Gunter) Date: Sat Apr 3 11:13:51 2004 Subject: [V8] Hood latch proceedure for broken latch wire?? References: Message-ID: <000101c41996$a0408bf0$c402a8c0@VAIO> Just did this a month ago..............with belly pan off, reach up from underneath............can do one side at a time...........driver's side is the easier one to begin with..........can reach the latch with a fully outstretched arm by going up just lateral to the frame and the 'bomb'..........feel for the latch and press it towards the center of the car..........the driver's side latch will release independent of the passenger's side. You can do more or less the same on the passenger's side but will need an 'extension' to your arm...........I used a wooden paint stirring stick.........gently 'probe' around until you find the latch...........DO NOT apply force to the upper radiator vent plastic nipple that feeds the reservoir.........you could accidentally snap it off. Can't think of any easier way to tackle the job. Plenty of lighting will help. Gunter Cleveland 1990 V8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Hamren" To: <> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 9:19 PM Subject: [V8] Hood latch proceedure for broken latch wire?? > Well, I am stumped on this one. I usually take a coat hanger and try to release the hood through the grill. I am afraid that there is a nice hard radiator in the way. Does anyone know how to release the hood after the wire has broken? > > TIA > > Dan Hamren > 1990 V8 133k > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > From jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net Sat Apr 3 16:06:05 2004 From: jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net (jpb3) Date: Sat Apr 3 16:06:06 2004 Subject: [V8] Passenger side TB cover!!!!!! HELP Message-ID: <002f01c419bf$f6792940$03fea8c0@domain.invalid> Hi all, I have all of the bolts out of the PS TB cover with the exception of the hex bolt below the tensioner. I am speaking of the recessed bolt just above the casting protrusion on the lower portion of the cover. Can anyone tell me what size this is? I removed the alternator etc.. have the DS cover off (what a breeze compared to PS) and just need to get this last bolt out so I can proceed. Thanks for any help. john From DasWolfen at aol.com Sat Apr 3 16:19:37 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Sat Apr 3 16:19:38 2004 Subject: [V8] Passenger side TB cover!!!!!! HELP Message-ID: <14.2602885f.2da08463@aol.com> In a message dated 4/3/04 4:06:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, jpb3wvu@frontiernet.net writes: > I am speaking of the recessed bolt just above > the casting protrusion on the lower portion of the cover. Can anyone tell > me what size this is? 12mm From jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net Sun Apr 4 11:31:39 2004 From: jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net (jpb3) Date: Sun Apr 4 11:31:40 2004 Subject: [V8] Passenger side TB cover!!!!!! HELP References: <002f01c419bf$f6792940$03fea8c0@domain.invalid> <406F41ED.2020907@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <000701c41a5a$6618d9e0$03fea8c0@domain.invalid> Yes I have removed the bolt under the black triangular tensioner bracket. I am having trouble with the bolt below the triangle. I have removed the three on the lower portion of the cover, (1 short 2 long) but seem to have one left that is barely visible and sits below the tensioner bracket just above a casting protrusion. It is a recessed hex head bolt. I can only surmise that this is what is holding on the cover as I have removed all the other bolts including the generator, yet it is definitely still stuck on the motor. I have taken a block of wood and hammer to it and it doesn't budge. Thanks for the help. john ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Head" To: "jpb3" Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 6:59 PM Subject: Re: [V8] Passenger side TB cover!!!!!! HELP > Did you move the serpentine tensioner up and put an allen wrench or > drill bit in the 'holding hole'? There's a semi-hidden 12mm bolt under > the black triangular portion... There's one 13mm on the bottom closest > to the hrank, the rest are 12mm - long suckers... > > jpb3 wrote: > > >Hi all, > > > >I have all of the bolts out of the PS TB cover with the exception of the hex > >bolt below the tensioner. I am speaking of the recessed bolt just above > >the casting protrusion on the lower portion of the cover. Can anyone tell > >me what size this is? I removed the alternator etc.. have the DS cover off > >(what a breeze compared to PS) and just need to get this last bolt out so I > >can proceed. Thanks for any help. > > > >john > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Audifans V8 mailing list > >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > > > > > > > From scott_matus at yahoo.com Mon Apr 5 17:27:33 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Mon Apr 5 17:27:34 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <20040405212730.37600.qmail@web14107.mail.yahoo.com> Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this is that won it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6762&item=2470206730 Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? Thanks, Scott Matus 2 - '90 V8s --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Mon Apr 5 17:49:09 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Mon Apr 5 17:49:10 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F015C813F@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> I have a copy of the manual ... unfortunately I don't have it with me. Overall I am pretty sure that the content is covered in the other manuals available for the V8. If you can get the part number you can see if it is still available from Dyment ... pretty sure it is. I suspect the P/N is WSP52121800C ... which you can get from Dyment for only $12. Perhaps you can get the number from the seller of the book ... it will be on the back cover. Check out Dyment at: http://www.audi.ddsltd.com/ Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi > Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in > seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this > is that won it? > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6762& item=2470206730 Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 5 18:50:44 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Mon Apr 5 18:50:45 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management In-Reply-To: <20040405212730.37600.qmail@web14107.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001501c41b60$5ee91340$6500a8c0@headlappy> Wait, how can that be the same motronic manual for the new s4 and the 4.2 V8 for the '92+ V8 quattros? Did they not change the engine management in with all the advancements in electronics technology over the past 8 years??? Or is that manual just for the new S4's V8 engine? Shawn head -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com] On Behalf Of S_Matus Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:28 PM To: V8 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this is that won it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6 762&item=2470206730 Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? Thanks, Scott Matus 2 - '90 V8s --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From scott_matus at yahoo.com Mon Apr 5 19:17:25 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Mon Apr 5 19:17:26 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management In-Reply-To: <001501c41b60$5ee91340$6500a8c0@headlappy> Message-ID: <20040405231723.9145.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> I thought that the S4 V8 did not arrive (at least Stateside) until this year! Was the V8 S4 available in europe earlier than the US Models? That is what has me interested in the manual. Scott Shawn Head wrote: Wait, how can that be the same motronic manual for the new s4 and the 4.2 V8 for the '92+ V8 quattros? Did they not change the engine management in with all the advancements in electronics technology over the past 8 years??? Or is that manual just for the new S4's V8 engine? Shawn head -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com] On Behalf Of S_Matus Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:28 PM To: V8 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this is that won it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6 762&item=2470206730 Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? Thanks, Scott Matus 2 - '90 V8s --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From DasWolfen at aol.com Mon Apr 5 19:24:21 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 5 19:24:22 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <54.2632b705.2da34490@aol.com> The S4 was introduced in Europe in 1992 with an ABH code 4.2 as an option. From v8q at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 5 19:27:55 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Mon Apr 5 19:27:56 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management References: <20040405212730.37600.qmail@web14107.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4071EC0D.3080109@bellsouth.net> That's a readily available manual. Scott Mockrey sells it. It contains a detailed description of the Engine Management System for the S4 and V8 (4.2). Each sensor is explained, how it fails, etc... It's only slightly different for the 3.6... S_Matus wrote: >Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this is that won it? > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6762&item=2470206730 > >Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? > >Thanks, >Scott Matus >2 - '90 V8s > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From v8q at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 5 19:29:25 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Mon Apr 5 19:29:26 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management References: <001501c41b60$5ee91340$6500a8c0@headlappy> Message-ID: <4071EC65.5030008@bellsouth.net> They are the same system... You want to see the manual? Shawn Head wrote: >Wait, how can that be the same motronic manual for the new s4 and the >4.2 V8 for the '92+ V8 quattros? Did they not change the engine >management in with all the advancements in electronics technology over >the past 8 years??? > >Or is that manual just for the new S4's V8 engine? > >Shawn head > >-----Original Message----- >From: v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com >[mailto:v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com] On Behalf Of >S_Matus >Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:28 PM >To: V8 >Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management > >Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual >this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. >Does anyone know who this is that won it? > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6 >762&item=2470206730 > >Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the >information? > >Thanks, >Scott Matus >2 - '90 V8s > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! > > >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From v8q at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 5 19:30:10 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Mon Apr 5 19:30:12 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management References: <20040405231723.9145.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4071EC94.5040104@bellsouth.net> Its for the 5 cylinder S4 S_Matus wrote: >I thought that the S4 V8 did not arrive (at least Stateside) until this year! Was the V8 S4 available in europe earlier than the US Models? That is what has me interested in the manual. > >Scott > >Shawn Head wrote: >Wait, how can that be the same motronic manual for the new s4 and the >4.2 V8 for the '92+ V8 quattros? Did they not change the engine >management in with all the advancements in electronics technology over >the past 8 years??? > >Or is that manual just for the new S4's V8 engine? > >Shawn head > >-----Original Message----- >From: v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com >[mailto:v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com] On Behalf Of >S_Matus >Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:28 PM >To: V8 >Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management > >Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual >this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. >Does anyone know who this is that won it? > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6 >762&item=2470206730 > >Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the >information? > >Thanks, >Scott Matus >2 - '90 V8s > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! > > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 5 23:06:55 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Mon Apr 5 23:06:57 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management In-Reply-To: <20040405231723.9145.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001a01c41b84$2c3a2e60$6500a8c0@headlappy> The s4 V8 is definitely here. But my question was about the fact that the title said "The Audi S4 and the 4.2 V8" however, the description of the product on ebay described the '92 plus 4.2. Shawn -----Original Message----- From: S_Matus [mailto:scott_matus@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 7:17 PM To: Shawn Head; V8 Subject: RE: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management I thought that the S4 V8 did not arrive (at least Stateside) until this year! Was the V8 S4 available in europe earlier than the US Models? That is what has me interested in the manual. Scott Shawn Head wrote: Wait, how can that be the same motronic manual for the new s4 and the 4.2 V8 for the '92+ V8 quattros? Did they not change the engine management in with all the advancements in electronics technology over the past 8 years??? Or is that manual just for the new S4's V8 engine? Shawn head -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces+s4qtro=bellsouth.net@audifans.com] On Behalf Of S_Matus Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 5:28 PM To: V8 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this is that won it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=6 762&item=2470206730 Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? Thanks, Scott Matus 2 - '90 V8s --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! _____ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 5 23:24:29 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Mon Apr 5 23:24:30 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management In-Reply-To: <4071EC0D.3080109@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <003501c41b86$a6950c50$6500a8c0@headlappy> me ^ | | | Stupid... -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of David Head Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 7:30 PM To: v8newlist Subject: Re: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management That's a readily available manual. Scott Mockrey sells it. It contains a detailed description of the Engine Management System for the S4 and V8 (4.2). Each sensor is explained, how it fails, etc... It's only slightly different for the 3.6... S_Matus wrote: >Someone with the E-bay id "93quattrov8" won an Audi Maintenance Manual this past weekend. I'm interested in seeing the content of this manual. Does anyone know who this is that won it? > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category= 6762&item=2470206730 > >Does anyone have a copy of the manual that would be willing to share the information? > >Thanks, >Scott Matus >2 - '90 V8s > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From scott_matus at yahoo.com Tue Apr 6 13:09:46 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Tue Apr 6 13:09:48 2004 Subject: [V8] Audi Manual - Dyment Message-ID: <20040406170942.44376.qmail@web14106.mail.yahoo.com> Steve - Thanks, I ordered from Dyment the Book and an Audi Pen. $21.00 I got a BUNCH of free stuff too. I'll have to check this site more often. Scott Matus 2 - '90 V8s ------Original message------Message: 5Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 14:49:01 -0700 From: "Buchholz, Steven" Subject: RE: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic ManagementTo: "'V8'" Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F015C813F@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"I have a copy of the manual ... unfortunately I don't have it with me.Overall I am pretty sure that the content is covered in the other manuals available for the V8. If you can get the part number you can see if it is still available from Dyment ... pretty sure it is. I suspect the P/N is WSP52121800C ... which you can get from Dyment for only $12. Perhaps you can get the number from the seller of the book ... it will be on the back cover. Check out Dyment at: http://www.audi.ddsltd.com/Steve BSan José, Kaleefohnia (USA) --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net Tue Apr 6 13:37:13 2004 From: jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net (jpb3) Date: Tue Apr 6 13:37:14 2004 Subject: [V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s Message-ID: <001201c41bfe$46b18a20$03fea8c0@domain.invalid> Ok, This PS TB cover is a real PITA!!!!! I have removed every 12mm bolt, the generator, the 13mm bolt and the small hex head bolt at the top. Do any of you remember having an 8 or 9mm hex head bolt below the serpentine belt tensioner?? I have one that is now rounded off. It is right below the 12mm semi hidden bolt you remove that is hidden under the tensioner. This "Hex bolt" I am having trouble with is also only accessible by rotating the tensioner. This leads me to the subject line.... I have the front bumper off the car and want some advice on removing the radiator. Do I need to disconnect the trans oil lines and the AC condenser? My Trans lines coming into the bottom of the radiator look very, corroded and brittle. I do not want to touch them if at all possible. I need to pull the radiator to get a better look at this bolt that I need to somehow remove. This is the first time I have done a TB job on a V8, so far it has not been very fun!!! I also have the cam locking plates, can anyone give a brief synapses of why they have two sets of holes on each side? Shouldn't you only be able to lock the cams in place in one position? Thanks for any help. john burns From ackramer at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 13:45:00 2004 From: ackramer at hotmail.com (Alan Kramer) Date: Tue Apr 6 13:45:01 2004 Subject: [V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s Message-ID: There is a bolt completely hidden by the tensioner and one that is just below. Remove both. Rad removal: Do it. First unbolt the AC from the radiator and let it swing down still connected by both hoses. Disconnect both trans lines. You have to. Undo the bolts. Be prepared to pry the trans lines from the radiator with a good bit of force. They're pressed in, and the o-rings are stubborn. You'll need to use more force than you're comfortable with to get them out. IIRC, the 2 sets of holes in the cam locking plates are for the left and right side respectively. One set is used if the tool is used on the left, the other set if it's used on the right. ----------------------------------- Alan Kramer http://www.geocities.com/audikramer '83 UrQ V8 '83 CGT 20vt '86 4kcsq '90 V8q ----------------------------------- _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Tue Apr 6 14:12:12 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Tue Apr 6 14:12:13 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB68C@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> > The s4 V8 is definitely here. But my question was about the fact that > the title said "The Audi S4 and the 4.2 V8" however, the > description of the product on ebay described the '92 plus 4.2. > ... I beg to differ ... the manual I saw on the auction looks exactly like one that I've had for quite some time ... which covers the ABH engine (4.2l) installed on the '92-on V8 Quattros and the AAN 5-cylinder 20V engine installed on the urS4. I suppose if the ABH engine was indeed installed on an S4 somewhere then it would apply, but I would expect the 4.2 liter motor currently installed in the S4 to be quite different in its control system. Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Tue Apr 6 14:25:05 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Tue Apr 6 14:25:06 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management References: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB68C@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: <4072F5FD.284491C1@sun.com> Steve, in the mid 90's a european S4 was a 4.2 liter 6 speed installed in a 92-98 series 100 shell.... both sedan and avant.... whilst in the USA a mid 90's s4/s6 was a 5cyl 20v turbo in a 92-98 series 100 shell... a little clearer ? yes we did get stiffed on that lighter bodied 92-98 100 with a big v8 motor ... and GEARS!!!! :( Mike, "Buchholz, Steven" wrote: > > > The s4 V8 is definitely here. But my question was about the fact that > > the title said "The Audi S4 and the 4.2 V8" however, the > > description of the product on ebay described the '92 plus 4.2. > > > ... I beg to differ ... the manual I saw on the auction looks exactly like > one that I've had for quite some time ... which covers the ABH engine (4.2l) > installed on the '92-on V8 Quattros and the AAN 5-cylinder 20V engine > installed on the urS4. > > I suppose if the ABH engine was indeed installed on an S4 somewhere then it > would apply, but I would expect the 4.2 liter motor currently installed in > the S4 to be quite different in its control system. > > Steve B > San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Tue Apr 6 15:02:16 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Tue Apr 6 15:02:18 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6A4@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Yes, I understand that the V8 was used in S4s in other parts of the world. My point was that I don't believe this manual was intended to document such vehicles ... there is no mention of an ABH engine in anything other than a V8 Quattro. ... gears? What do you mean? I suppose I'm 1.2 liters short in toto, but my 16 cylinders include ten of them ... ;-) Yes, I know that the ABH equipped MT V8Qs have 6-speeds ... which means I'm 1.2 liters and 2 gears short of the ideal ... I wonder how much lighter an urS4 is as compared to a V8 ... my quick check of the AW site showed that the '92 US S4 was within the weight difference of the engines of my '91 V8 (the site didn't have the weight figures for the ABH-equipped models). Steve B San José, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > in the mid 90's a european S4 was a 4.2 liter 6 speed installed in a > 92-98 series 100 shell.... both sedan and avant.... whilst > in the USA > a mid 90's s4/s6 was a 5cyl 20v turbo in a 92-98 series 100 shell... > > a little clearer ? yes we did get stiffed on that lighter bodied > 92-98 100 with a big v8 motor ... and GEARS!!!! :( > > > Mike, > > > > "Buchholz, Steven" wrote: > > > > > The s4 V8 is definitely here. But my question was about > the fact that > > > the title said "The Audi S4 and the 4.2 V8" however, the > > > description of the product on ebay described the '92 plus 4.2. > > > > > ... I beg to differ ... the manual I saw on the auction > looks exactly like > > one that I've had for quite some time ... which covers the > ABH engine (4.2l) > > installed on the '92-on V8 Quattros and the AAN 5-cylinder > 20V engine > > installed on the urS4. > > > > I suppose if the ABH engine was indeed installed on an S4 > somewhere then it > > would apply, but I would expect the 4.2 liter motor > currently installed in > > the S4 to be quite different in its control system. > > > > Steve B > > San José, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > _______________________________________________ > > Audifans V8 mailing list > > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v> 8 > > Have an Audi V8 > question? Check the Audifans > Knowledgebase! > > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the > KB ... all contributions welcome! > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Tue Apr 6 15:05:21 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Tue Apr 6 15:05:22 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management References: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6A4@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: <4072FF6E.5100B70@sun.com> "Buchholz, Steven" wrote: > > Yes, I understand that the V8 was used in S4s in other parts of the world. > My point was that I don't believe this manual was intended to document such > vehicles ... there is no mention of an ABH engine in anything other than a > V8 Quattro. > > ... gears? What do you mean? I suppose I'm 1.2 liters short in toto, but > my 16 cylinders include ten of them ... ;-) > > Yes, I know that the ABH equipped MT V8Qs have 6-speeds ... which means I'm > 1.2 liters and 2 gears short of the ideal ... > > I wonder how much lighter an urS4 is as compared to a V8 ... my quick check > of the AW site showed that the '92 US S4 was within the weight difference of > the engines of my '91 V8 (the site didn't have the weight figures for the > ABH-equipped models). > no data to support my thoughts here steve, just an assumption based on the fact that they are smaller and seem to be less structurally solid than the V8's/91 200tq20v cars.... I don't mean to start another war on who's model is better, simply my subjective opinion... ) Mike, > Steve B > San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > > > in the mid 90's a european S4 was a 4.2 liter 6 speed installed in a > > 92-98 series 100 shell.... both sedan and avant.... whilst > > in the USA > > a mid 90's s4/s6 was a 5cyl 20v turbo in a 92-98 series 100 shell... > > > > a little clearer ? yes we did get stiffed on that lighter bodied > > 92-98 100 with a big v8 motor ... and GEARS!!!! :( > > > > > > Mike, > > > > > > > > "Buchholz, Steven" wrote: > > > > > > > The s4 V8 is definitely here. But my question was about > > the fact that > > > > the title said "The Audi S4 and the 4.2 V8" however, the > > > > description of the product on ebay described the '92 plus 4.2. > > > > > > > ... I beg to differ ... the manual I saw on the auction > > looks exactly like > > > one that I've had for quite some time ... which covers the > > ABH engine (4.2l) > > > installed on the '92-on V8 Quattros and the AAN 5-cylinder > > 20V engine > > > installed on the urS4. > > > > > > I suppose if the ABH engine was indeed installed on an S4 > > somewhere then it > > > would apply, but I would expect the 4.2 liter motor > > currently installed in > > > the S4 to be quite different in its control system. > > > > > > Steve B > > > San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Audifans V8 mailing list > > > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > > > Manage your list connection: > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v> 8 > > > Have an Audi V8 > > question? Check the Audifans > > Knowledgebase! > > > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > > > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the > > KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > > -- > > > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From stafford at WPI.EDU Tue Apr 6 15:22:21 2004 From: stafford at WPI.EDU (Stafford, Kenneth A.) Date: Tue Apr 6 15:22:22 2004 Subject: [V8] RE: Passenger Side TB Cover Message-ID: <0FDFC33E89EC734387E0359C1662EFB5043832EB@mail.admin.wpi.edu> John, Reference that last bolt in the recessed casting, yes indeed it is a 12 mm head, but don't make the mistake I made. DO NOT ATTEMPT EXTRACTING THIS WITH A 12PT SOCKET! This is one of those little head, big thread numbers. It will be a lot tighter than you expect from the measly 12 mm hex! I rounded off the corners using a fairly new 12 pt socket--eventually took me about 4 hrs to get that single bolt out--IMO by far the most frustrating part of doing a TB change. My advice: use a nice new 6pt socket and be sure you have full, straight engagement! Good luck, Ken From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Tue Apr 6 15:30:30 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Tue Apr 6 15:30:31 2004 Subject: [V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6AB@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... responses interspersed below ... > > Ok, This PS TB cover is a real PITA!!!!! AGREED! > I have removed every 12mm bolt, the generator, the 13mm bolt and the small > hex head bolt at the top. Do any of you remember having an 8 or 9mm hex > head bolt below the serpentine belt tensioner?? I have one that is now > rounded off. It is right below the 12mm semi hidden bolt you remove that is > hidden under the tensioner. This "Hex bolt" I am having trouble with is > also only accessible by rotating the tensioner. This leads me to the > subject line.... ... you know, at first I was going to say that it was just the 13mm and 12mm [head size] bolts, but now that I'm thinking about it I do remember some smaller sized fasteners which had a molded flange in the base. Basically, if you find any fasteners outside the ones used for the serpentine belt tensioning mechanism remove them. Rather than assume you know, I thought I would note that there is a nut which is there to allow you to more easily compress the spring/damper on the serpentine belt tensioner. There are bolts that are accessed with the tensioner in the released state and others that require the tensioner to be pushed back and pinned. > > I have the front bumper off the car and want some advice on removing the > radiator. Do I need to disconnect the trans oil lines and the AC condenser? > My Trans lines coming into the bottom of the radiator look very, corroded > and brittle. I do not want to touch them if at all possible. I need to > pull the radiator to get a better look at this bolt that I need to somehow > remove. Given this fact I would recommend that you leave the radiator attached. Granted, the job is considerably easier with the core support out of the way ... but it is not required. What you may want to do is to loosen the bolts that attach the core support on the passenger's side ... it will probably make removing the cover a bit easier because you can make a bit more room for it to clear the upper radiator flange. When I pulled the engine on #2 I had a bear of a time popping those oil cooler lines from the radiator ... if you think they are weak at all they might well fail with all the motion ... > > This is the first time I have done a TB job on a V8, so far it has not been > very fun!!! I also have the cam locking plates, can anyone give a brief > synapses of why they have two sets of holes on each side? Shouldn't you > only be able to lock the cams in place in one position? ... the plates *will* lock in only one position. There is a locating pin on the distributor mount which sets the reference ... then you install the distributor hold down screws in whichever holes line up with the ones on the plate. I had a bit of fun getting the cam pulley to come loose on the driver's side bank. I don't know how much archive diving you've done, but you should carefully review the cam belt tensioning mechanism. I almost lost the engine in #344 because the "friction piece" had worn completely through and caused metal to metal contact on the tensioning pivot. I'll bet that when they put the engine back together from the earlier TB breakage (when the car was owned by someone else) they did not replace the friction piece. I recommend the friction piece be replaced every time the TB is changed, and the entire tensioning mechanism be tested to make sure it operates smoothly. I replaced the Damper/Spring assembly on #344 as well, but it isn't clear that was actually required. Of course you also want to give good consideration to replacing the water pump, oil seals and rollers at this point ... Good luck! Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Tue Apr 6 15:34:47 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Tue Apr 6 15:34:48 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6AD@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> > > I wonder how much lighter an urS4 is as compared to a V8 ... my quick check > > of the AW site showed that the '92 US S4 was within the weight difference of > > the engines of my '91 V8 (the site didn't have the weight figures for the > > ABH-equipped models). > > > > no data to support my thoughts here steve, just an assumption > based on > the fact that they are smaller and seem to be less structurally solid > than the V8's/91 200tq20v cars.... I don't mean to start another war > on who's model is better, simply my subjective opinion... ) > ... nor am I ... just a quest for more information. In fact I was surprised to find the differences quoted to be so small (not that I trust the data on AW to be accurate). In any event, the folks on this list *know* which of the two is better ... ;-) It does make an interesting point ... those of you lucky so-and-sos who happen to have ABH-equipped MT V8s may have the closest thing to a European S4 as is available on this side of the pond ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Tue Apr 6 16:04:52 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Tue Apr 6 16:04:54 2004 Subject: [V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F89834338@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Just a couple comments inserted: > ...would note that there is a nut which is there to allow you to > more easily > compress the spring/damper on the serpentine belt tensioner. > There are > bolts that are accessed with the tensioner in the released > state and others > that require the tensioner to be pushed back and pinned. As an identifier, I recall that this is an acorn-style nut. > ... Given this fact I would recommend that you leave the radiator > attached. > Granted, the job is considerably easier with the core support > out of the way > ... but it is not required. I R&R'd my TB (and cylinder heads and engine block) without removing the bumper or radiator. Yes, it'd have been easier if I had, but it's not necessary. Note -- if you want to use air to remove the crank bolt, it's all gotta come out. Otherwise you definitely need a friend with a modicum of understanding of physics. > ... plate. I had a bit of fun getting the cam pulley to come loose on the > driver's side bank. Nice description on the cam plates. There's a couple pulley bolts that are extremely tight, and they're heart-stoppers when it comes to loosening them! You're not removing the heads, but the torquing requirement on them is insane. Same with the crank pulley (vibration damper?). You'll need a torque wrench multiplier or a powerful air gun. When you get that far in the reinstall, let us know... > I don't know how much archive diving you've done, but you > should carefully > review the cam belt tensioning mechanism. I almost lost the > engine in #344 > because the "friction piece" had worn completely through and PN: "friction pad" 077 109 495 -DaveC. From ekellock at adelphia.net Tue Apr 6 17:26:04 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Tue Apr 6 17:26:06 2004 Subject: [V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s Message-ID: <20040406211737.HDXH8065.mta10.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> The tensioning arm can be secured in position when it is rotated out of the way. There's a special tool for it, but all you really need is a screwdriver or a 1/4 drive socket extension. There's a 13mm acorn nut on the tensioning arm that you can use to pivot it securely out of the way while you fit the pin. The bolt your after is much larger than one you would normally find a 12mm head on. You should have two others like it out already though. It has a tapered head that allows it to fit in the recess and still be accessible with a socket. I didn't remove the radiator on mine though.. no help there. Ed ============================================================ From: "jpb3" Date: 2004/04/06 Tue AM 11:40:38 MDT To: Subject: [V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s ============================================================ From rbroberg at wi.rr.com Tue Apr 6 19:52:19 2004 From: rbroberg at wi.rr.com (Roland Broberg) Date: Tue Apr 6 19:52:20 2004 Subject: [V8] RE: Passenger Side TB Cover References: <0FDFC33E89EC734387E0359C1662EFB5043832EB@mail.admin.wpi.edu> Message-ID: <001201c41c31$ded65460$6500a8c0@kayak> I've had the same experience with that bolt. Found that the 6 point combined with a 3/8 drive pneumatic impact wrench does a not less damage than the long arm wrench. Roland Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stafford, Kenneth A." To: Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:22 PM Subject: [V8] RE: Passenger Side TB Cover John, Reference that last bolt in the recessed casting, yes indeed it is a 12 mm head, but don't make the mistake I made. DO NOT ATTEMPT EXTRACTING THIS WITH A 12PT SOCKET! This is one of those little head, big thread numbers. It will be a lot tighter than you expect from the measly 12 mm hex! I rounded off the corners using a fairly new 12 pt socket--eventually took me about 4 hrs to get that single bolt out--IMO by far the most frustrating part of doing a TB change. My advice: use a nice new 6pt socket and be sure you have full, straight engagement! Good luck, Ken _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From lorbergg at HDH.KARI.NET Thu Apr 1 00:40:00 2004 From: lorbergg at HDH.KARI.NET (Lorberg, Gunter W.) Date: Tue Apr 6 20:21:06 2004 Subject: FW: [V8] Hood latch proceedure for broken latch wire?? Message-ID: <00CD009015FF1E41819ED31B942C36FB2F18E9@hdhsrv77.hdh.kari.net> -----Original Message----- From: Lorberg, Gunter W. To: 'dan@magnitude-electronics.com' Cc: 'V8@audifans.com' Sent: 3/31/2004 2:16 AM Subject: Re: [V8] Hood latch proceedure for broken latch wire?? Just did this a month ago..............with belly pan off, reach up from underneath............can do one side at a time...........driver's side is the easier one to begin with..........can reach the latch with a fully outstretched arm by going up just lateral to the frame and the 'bomb'..........feel for the latch and press it towards the center of the car..........the driver's side latch will release independent of the passenger's side. You can do more or less the same on the passenger's side but will need an 'extension' to your arm...........I used a wooden paint stirring stick.........gently 'probe' around until you find the latch...........DO NOT inadvertently apply force to the upper radiator vent plastic nipple that feeds the reservoir.........you could accidentally snap it off. Can't think of any easier way to tackle the job. Plenty of lighting will help. Gunter Cleveland 1990 V8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Hamren" To: <> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 9:19 PM Subject: [V8] Hood latch proceedure for broken latch wire?? > Well, I am stumped on this one. I usually take a coat hanger and try to release the hood through the grill. I am afraid that there is a nice hard radiator in the way. Does anyone know how to release the hood after the wire has broken? > > TIA > > Dan Hamren > 1990 V8 133k > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ---- ---- > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! **The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, re-transmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than intended recipients is prohibited. Opinions, conclusions or other information contained in this e-mail may not be that of the organization. If you received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.** From baumanns at baldwin-telecom.net Sat Apr 3 08:36:23 2004 From: baumanns at baldwin-telecom.net (Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions) Date: Tue Apr 6 20:21:08 2004 Subject: [V8] Tune-up, UFO and Timing questions! Message-ID: <001201c41980$9a1a4e20$0100a8c0@your6bvpxyztoq> Greetings to all... I am going to very soon pick up a new (to me of course) V8Q to join my existing one in the garage. It has a few issues that I need to address - looking for some input: 1) it has warped UFO's - what is all required for a Girling conversion? or does anyone know of any deals on replacement UFO's? 2) it needs a total ignition upgrade - where is the best source for wires, plugs, caps rotors? 3) on my own (1990 w/158K = 65K on current T-belt) - which has been a SOLID performer for the past 1-1/2 years, I need to also do the ignition tune-up and the T-Belt. Has anyone identified a good source for all of the T-belt job components (not special tools, just parts)?? Thanks!! Scott Baumann From v8q at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 6 20:32:07 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Tue Apr 6 20:32:08 2004 Subject: [V8] Climate Control Saga...Problem Found!!! References: Message-ID: <40734C96.8030001@bellsouth.net> Wow - that's weird - there are 4 bolts that should hold it on, as I recall - 2 on each side. 10mm. And it its the real thin one, about 2inches square - that's your oil cooler. There's a 13mm nut on each side that holds a bracket on, and that bracket has 2 10mm bolts that bolt to the oil cooler. For now, just zip tie it in place. Make sure its not too damaged - you could lose a LOT of oil quickly. FYI - the AC condenser is in front the the radiator... Dave Robert Campozano wrote: >Hi, >I am currently e-mailing from home so if you do respond to this post please e-mail me off list as well as to this e-mail address!!! I went under my car and no sooner did I do that I found that (I am assuming it is this) the A/C condensor (looks like a thin long radiator with a couple braided hoses on each side) had lost its bolt on the right passenger side and it was hanging and bumping into the pullies when I would turn the A/C on! Can anyone provide me with any insight as to what size bolt I need to bolt the condensor back on? I temporarily used a screwdriver to keep the condensor up and any insight on what size bolt it is would be appreciated.. >Thanks again, >Zay Campozano >rcampozano@mgmmirage.net (my audifans e-mail) >zay@rennlist.net (my home e-mail) >1990 V8 3.6L Auto >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From eddie_dial at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 21:30:42 2004 From: eddie_dial at hotmail.com (Eddie Dial) Date: Tue Apr 6 21:30:43 2004 Subject: [V8] Tune-up, UFO and Timing questions! Message-ID: Please contact scott at www.4usedaudiparts.com He is very reasonably priced and quick. >From: "Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions" > >Reply-To: Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions > >To: >Subject: [V8] Tune-up, UFO and Timing questions! >Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 07:35:44 -0600 > >Greetings to all... I am going to very soon pick up a new (to me of >course) V8Q to join my existing one in the garage. It has a few issues >that I need to address - looking for some input: > >1) it has warped UFO's - what is all required for a Girling conversion? or >does anyone know of any deals on replacement UFO's? > >2) it needs a total ignition upgrade - where is the best source for wires, >plugs, caps rotors? > >3) on my own (1990 w/158K = 65K on current T-belt) - which has been a SOLID >performer for the past 1-1/2 years, I need to also do the ignition tune-up >and the T-Belt. Has anyone identified a good source for all of the T-belt >job components (not special tools, just parts)?? > >Thanks!! > >Scott Baumann >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Check out MSN PC Safety & Security to help ensure your PC is protected and safe. http://specials.msn.com/msn/security.asp From cwurts12 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 6 22:07:31 2004 From: cwurts12 at mindspring.com (Charles Wurts) Date: Tue Apr 6 22:07:32 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6AD@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> References: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6AD@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: <525CCB6B-8838-11D8-9FE8-000A95CD7CD8@mindspring.com> Wasn't it the UrS4 Plus? On Apr 6, 2004, at 3:34 PM, Buchholz, Steven wrote: > It does make an interesting point ... those of you lucky so-and-sos who > happen to have ABH-equipped MT V8s may have the closest thing to a > European > S4 as is available on this side of the pond ... From DasWolfen at aol.com Tue Apr 6 23:39:28 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Tue Apr 6 23:39:30 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management Message-ID: <59.8cb43ef.2da4d1df@aol.com> In a message dated 4/6/04 10:07:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cwurts12@mindspring.com writes: > Wasn't it the UrS4 Plus? No....there was never a "plus" model S4. There is an S6 Plus. Not sure why its called that but it is clearly listed as a seperate model in the Euro ETKA. From DasWolfen at aol.com Wed Apr 7 00:36:28 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Wed Apr 7 00:36:31 2004 Subject: [V8] Hall sender / theories? Message-ID: <195.2802f139.2da4df46@aol.com> In a message dated 4/6/04 8:21:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, lyddall@netzero.com writes: > I got a new distributor and installed it last night to replace the one > with the broken hall sender. ($80 from Force5 and a replacement door > mirror unit for $25). I still have the same problem of really rough idle > and hesitation/engine vibration when you push the gas. The fault code is > 2113 (hall sender), but I've tested the sender and it is blinking when it > should and seems to have the correct voltages as described in the shop > manual. This certainly sounds familiar..... Rough idle, hesitation, fully operational hall sensor being coded..... Last time I saw saw those three symptoms together the T/B was off a tooth. The ecu only looks for the hall sensor during a specific period of time, if it doesnt see it during that time it codes the sensor, backs off the timing, and ignores the knock sensors. > > Is it possible that when I put the old distributor on and broke the cover > that keeps the hall sender wires in place that the distributor jammed > enough that it moved the cam sprocket and now the timing is now off a few > degrees? You'll strip the teeth off the belt before you'll get the gear to turn on the cam. > > I don't really want to do a t-belt job on this car (160k) - not to mention > I don't have the locking plates or any of the other tools needed. Want to or not thats the only fix. From getur at optonline.net Wed Apr 7 01:08:27 2004 From: getur at optonline.net (George Tur) Date: Wed Apr 7 01:08:28 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management In-Reply-To: <59.8cb43ef.2da4d1df@aol.com> References: <59.8cb43ef.2da4d1df@aol.com> Message-ID: <200404070105.55548.getur@optonline.net> On Tuesday 06 April 2004 23:39, DasWolfen@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/6/04 10:07:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > > cwurts12@mindspring.com writes: > > Wasn't it the UrS4 Plus? > > No....there was never a "plus" model S4. There is an S6 Plus. Not sure why > its called that but it is clearly listed as a seperate model in the Euro > ETKA. > ************* I was looking through an old book I have on Audi model lines, the book is called "The Audi File, all models since 1988", published by Haynes, and it shows an S4 model with a V8 in 1992 and then an S6 with a V8 in 1995. The S6 listing shows 2 engine options. One engine has an output of 290bp and the other has a power output of 325 bhp. The S6 with the higher output engine is called the S6 plus, the other models are just called S4 and S6. From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Wed Apr 7 07:32:51 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Wed Apr 7 07:32:53 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Engine Motronic Management References: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CB6AD@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> <525CCB6B-8838-11D8-9FE8-000A95CD7CD8@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <4073E6DF.19415199@sun.com> Charles Wurts wrote: > > Wasn't it the UrS4 Plus? hhhmmmm, you may be right... sounds familiar.... Mike, > > On Apr 6, 2004, at 3:34 PM, Buchholz, Steven wrote: > > > It does make an interesting point ... those of you lucky so-and-sos who > > happen to have ABH-equipped MT V8s may have the closest thing to a > > European > > S4 as is available on this side of the pond ... > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil Wed Apr 7 07:40:47 2004 From: Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil (Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC) Date: Wed Apr 7 07:40:48 2004 Subject: [V8] Weights of vehicles Message-ID: <200404071142.i37Bgv09026358@legolas.tinker.af.mil> If anyone is interested........ The UrS4 weight was 3830lbs. The V8Q auto was 4050lbs. The new S4(V6-5sp) is 3620lbs. The 200 20V 5-sp was just over 3600lbs. These figures are from old sports car international issues. The 4kq I'm putting the 3.6 into weighs 2850lbs. Tony HOffman From Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil Wed Apr 7 07:52:17 2004 From: Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil (Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC) Date: Wed Apr 7 07:52:17 2004 Subject: [V8] Weights of vehicles Message-ID: <200404071154.i37BsO0B028593@legolas.tinker.af.mil> The engjine with all accessories weighs 470 lbs. -----Original Message----- From: Michael Larosa Jr [mailto:Mc.Larosa@Sun.COM] Sent: 07-Apr-2004 6:51 AM To: Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC Subject: Re: [V8] Weights of vehicles Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC wrote: > > If anyone is interested........ > > The UrS4 weight was 3830lbs. > The V8Q auto was 4050lbs. > The new S4(V6-5sp) is 3620lbs. > The 200 20V 5-sp was just over 3600lbs. > These figures are from old sports car international issues. The 4kq > I'm putting the 3.6 into weighs 2850lbs. I seem to recall a 3.6 block weighs 60lbs... I think the fully dressed weight is in the v8q overview manual... > > Tony HOffman > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Wed Apr 7 07:56:23 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Wed Apr 7 07:56:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Weights of vehicles References: <200404071154.i37BsO0B028593@legolas.tinker.af.mil> Message-ID: <4073EC63.831712E2@sun.com> that lighter than a normal 4kq 5 cyl motor ? isn't that 5cyl a steel block, alum cyl head ? Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC wrote: > > The engjine with all accessories weighs 470 lbs. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Larosa Jr [mailto:Mc.Larosa@Sun.COM] > Sent: 07-Apr-2004 6:51 AM > To: Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC > Subject: Re: [V8] Weights of vehicles > > Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC wrote: > > > > If anyone is interested........ > > > > The UrS4 weight was 3830lbs. > > The V8Q auto was 4050lbs. > > The new S4(V6-5sp) is 3620lbs. > > The 200 20V 5-sp was just over 3600lbs. > > These figures are from old sports car international issues. The 4kq > > I'm putting the 3.6 into weighs 2850lbs. > > I seem to recall a 3.6 block weighs 60lbs... I think > the fully dressed weight is in the v8q overview manual... > > > > > Tony HOffman > > _______________________________________________ > > Audifans V8 mailing list > > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > > Manage your list connection: > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From scott_matus at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 09:23:40 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Wed Apr 7 09:23:40 2004 Subject: [V8] Parts V8 on E-bay - Cape Cod, MA Message-ID: <20040407132337.61742.qmail@web14103.mail.yahoo.com> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2472376840 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From scott_matus at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 09:28:40 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Wed Apr 7 09:28:41 2004 Subject: [V8] 2 V8 Parts Cars in KY Message-ID: <20040407132838.11580.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> In the text of this sale the guy says one of the two V8s had a Dash Fire? Does anyone know how common this happens? Is it related to the headlight switch? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2471962184 Scott. 2 - 90 V8s --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil Wed Apr 7 09:45:09 2004 From: Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil (Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC) Date: Wed Apr 7 09:45:10 2004 Subject: [V8] Weights of vehicles Message-ID: <200404071343.i37DhkWh005680@saruman.tinker.af.mil> About 100 lbs heavier than a 20V N/A engine. I don't know the specs on the 20V turbo or either 10V, although I'm goint to weigh my car before and after, as well as the 10V N/A with accessories on it. My car should weigh around 3000 when done. Everything else will be stock for a while except no A/C. Yes, cast block, Alluminum head on the 5 cyl. Tony -----Original Message----- From: Michael Larosa Jr [mailto:Mc.Larosa@Sun.COM] Sent: 07-Apr-2004 6:56 AM To: Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC Cc: 'V8@audifans.com' Subject: Re: [V8] Weights of vehicles that lighter than a normal 4kq 5 cyl motor ? isn't that 5cyl a steel block, alum cyl head ? Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC wrote: > > The engjine with all accessories weighs 470 lbs. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Larosa Jr [mailto:Mc.Larosa@Sun.COM] > Sent: 07-Apr-2004 6:51 AM > To: Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC > Subject: Re: [V8] Weights of vehicles > > Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC wrote: > > > > If anyone is interested........ > > > > The UrS4 weight was 3830lbs. > > The V8Q auto was 4050lbs. > > The new S4(V6-5sp) is 3620lbs. > > The 200 20V 5-sp was just over 3600lbs. > > These figures are from old sports car international issues. The 4kq > > I'm putting the 3.6 into weighs 2850lbs. > > I seem to recall a 3.6 block weighs 60lbs... I think > the fully dressed weight is in the v8q overview manual... > > > > > Tony HOffman _______________________________________________ > > Audifans V8 mailing list > > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > > Manage your list connection: > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Wed Apr 7 09:52:54 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Wed Apr 7 09:52:55 2004 Subject: [V8] Hall sender / theories? Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F893A5554@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> > > I still have the same problem of > really rough idle > > and hesitation/engine vibration when you push the gas. The > fault code is > > 2113 (hall sender), but I've tested the sender and it is > blinking when it > > should and seems to have the correct voltages as described > in the shop > > manual. > > This certainly sounds familiar..... Rough idle, hesitation, fully > operational hall sensor being coded..... Last time I saw saw > those three symptoms > together the T/B was off a tooth. The ecu only looks for the > hall sensor during a > specific period of time, if it doesnt see it during that time > it codes the > sensor, backs off the timing, and ignores the knock sensors I had drafted a response of the same opinion but then deleted when it seemed to me that this TB hadn't been off. But perhaps it's slipped. I got the HS code after doing my belt. I won't go into how sure I was that I had installed the belt correctly, but suffice to say it was off a tooth and that damn hall sensor code wouldn't go away. I was sure there was a sensor problem, but Keith put me right -- I called in a favor to a local p/a tech, borrowed the cam lock tools, and sure enough, the belt was off. Redid the belt, the code went bye-bye. So if it's slipped, consider yourself effin lucky. -DaveC. From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Wed Apr 7 10:30:57 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Wed Apr 7 10:30:57 2004 Subject: [V8] 15" wheels 1990 V8A AT Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F8983433B@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Experience of all kinds is easily garnered with these cars. Most of it's good! Common Audi-ownership sense prohibits me from stating out loud the reassuring answer you're looking for re: getting on top, but I will say, have faith -- it's not always big money and time. Fun and pride will start working its way in there! For the wheels, assuming they're the flat-faced ones with 5 very short spokes, not the BBS mesh type, the market is minimal. Save 'em for all that Mesa snow you get. The BBSers are 15" also, but worth a bit more, especially if the polished lips aren't too corroded. What size tires? 215/60-15? There's usually a bit of a demand for 4 equally-good tires.. -DaveC. > I'm a recently-new owner of a 1990 Audi V8 Quattro AT. Am > buying set of pearlescent white wheels and tires, and have > surplus, good, plain alloy wheels mounted with pretty good > Toyo tires. New list for wheels alone is $568 each. Is there > a market for used wheels? What could I expect to get for the set? > > I have gained a lot of new (and expensive) experience with > the car, which I love dearly, but am wondering, do you ever > get on top ... where the car runs, faithfully every day? > > Thanks, > Ken Berg > Mesa, Arizona From ekellock at adelphia.net Wed Apr 7 11:08:42 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Wed Apr 7 11:08:43 2004 Subject: [V8] 15" wheels 1990 V8A AT Message-ID: <20040407150840.DHPT26615.mta9.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I would agree in regard to value. They are excellent for snow tires since they are so closed. That won't help you much in Mesa, but not too far you they may come handy, though I would be surprised to find many V8's there. Btw Ken, I was just in your general neighborhood on Saturday (though in my sister's Camry) on the way to Canyon and then Saguaro Lake. What absolutely beautiful landscape out there, specifically from Brown Rd up over Usary Pass. I lived in the high desert in California for many years and I can't remember ever seeing anything like it. Ed Colorado Springs ============================================================ From: "Coleman, David" Date: 2004/04/07 Wed AM 08:30:17 MDT To: "Kenneth Berg" , "V8 List (E-mail)" Subject: RE: [V8] 15" wheels 1990 V8A AT Experience of all kinds is easily garnered with these cars. Most of it's good! Common Audi-ownership sense prohibits me from stating out loud the reassuring answer you're looking for re: getting on top, but I will say, have faith -- it's not always big money and time. Fun and pride will start working its way in there! For the wheels, assuming they're the flat-faced ones with 5 very short spokes, not the BBS mesh type, the market is minimal. Save 'em for all that Mesa snow you get. The BBSers are 15" also, but worth a bit more, especially if the polished lips aren't too corroded. What size tires? 215/60-15? There's usually a bit of a demand for 4 equally-good tires.. -DaveC. > I'm a recently-new owner of a 1990 Audi V8 Quattro AT. Am > buying set of pearlescent white wheels and tires, and have > surplus, good, plain alloy wheels mounted with pretty good > Toyo tires. New list for wheels alone is $568 each. Is there > a market for used wheels? What could I expect to get for the set? > > I have gained a lot of new (and expensive) experience with > the car, which I love dearly, but am wondering, do you ever > get on top ... where the car runs, faithfully every day? > > Thanks, > Ken Berg > Mesa, Arizona _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From RCAMPOZANO at mgmmirage.net Wed Apr 7 11:27:40 2004 From: RCAMPOZANO at mgmmirage.net (Campozano, Robert) Date: Wed Apr 7 11:27:41 2004 Subject: [V8] Oil Cooler Bolts (Was Climate Control Saga / Vegas Get Together ) Message-ID: Thanks for the response Dave, Somehow this e-mail got repeated to the list. Fortunately, the oil cooler did not suffer any damage. I already bolted it back and made sure the other bolts were secure. Think I was pretty fortunate that it did not decide to fall off at highway speeds. Thanks again for the response. I would also like to thank lister Tony Hoffman for sending me the oil cooler bolts. Quite surprised to receive them last night with instructions on how to get the bolts back in and everything. Thank you! Finally, after all the hype, it seems like the Las Vegas get together will not happen. Everyone seems kind of busy these next 2 months...if anyone is still interested in doing this, please let me know. My car could use some TLC and like I said, I am willing to get some rooms (MGM/Mirage hotels) for anyone on the list that wants to get together and help out. Thanks, Zay <> From mericky at yahoo.com Wed Apr 7 16:25:21 2004 From: mericky at yahoo.com (Richard Hill) Date: Wed Apr 7 16:25:23 2004 Subject: [V8] No Low-Beams Message-ID: <20040407202519.93225.qmail@web11204.mail.yahoo.com> Hey fans, Looked through lots of archives but no can find.. Need link to a source for "DeOx-It" contact cleaner. Have to repair low beam lights, intermittant speedo, etc. TIA Rick in MI "90 V8Q --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Apr 7 16:42:32 2004 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Wed Apr 7 16:42:34 2004 Subject: [V8] No Low-Beams In-Reply-To: <20040407202519.93225.qmail@web11204.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4.1.20040407164230.00b2ff58@traverse.com> DeoxIt is a product of Caig Laboratories: http://www.caig.com/ At 01:25 PM 4/7/2004 -0700, Richard Hill wrote: >Hey fans, > Looked through lots of archives but no can find.. >Need link to a source for "DeOx-It" contact cleaner. >Have to repair low beam lights, intermittant speedo, etc. >TIA >Rick in MI >"90 V8Q > > >--------------------------------- >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! From david at styletrack401k.com Wed Apr 7 18:03:15 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Wed Apr 7 18:03:16 2004 Subject: [V8] No Low-Beams Message-ID: I just used contact cleaner bought from Radio Shack - about 3 years ago now. Also installed a wiring harness for the lights. Have had no problems since. Dave 90 V8Q 96 A6w From jorgen.m.karlsson at home.se Wed Apr 7 19:06:14 2004 From: jorgen.m.karlsson at home.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Wed Apr 7 19:06:16 2004 Subject: SV: [V8] Weights of vehicles In-Reply-To: <200404071154.i37BsO0B028593@legolas.tinker.af.mil> Message-ID: Hi, > The engine with all accessories weighs 470 lbs. Does anyone know the weight of fully dressed 10v, 10vt and 20vt engines? When I pulled the I5 from the Audi80 -83 it felt like the I5 was lighter then the ABZ that I put in there. In my cramped garage I need to lift the engine and engine crane by putting my shoulder under the crane before I'm able to roll the engine into the engine compartment. My eyes almost popped out from the blood pressure when lifting the ABZ with the ABH 6speed clutch and flywheel installed. Either the ABZ is 35-50lbs heavier then the I5 or the size of the monster demoralized me. J?rgen From Etdmail at cs.com Wed Apr 7 20:45:02 2004 From: Etdmail at cs.com (Etdmail@cs.com) Date: Wed Apr 7 20:45:03 2004 Subject: [V8] Your V8 .. Still For Sale ? Message-ID: Hi Richard Have been very slow in getting back to you. As well as catching up with my List postings, and have just cam across your from last month. I had contacted you earlier and you sent some PIC out (thanks). .. I had made my trip west prior to getting them. And had to buy another car in the mean time. But am un-happy with it .. And expect I will try to find another (nice) V8 to replace the one I had. Although a nice car .. I find the E 420 Mercedes I did by not quite to my liking .. Although quite zippy and more frugal while doing it too .. I expect I will be going west again soon. Let me know if you have found a new home for yours yet ? .. And any new additions you've made. Thanks Again .. Ed ________________________________________________ In a message dated 3/16/04 11:36:34 PM EDT v8-request@audifans.com writes: > Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 16:24:40 EST > From: RichardMor@aol.com > Subject: [V8] 90 V8Q FS - lower price > To: v8@audifans.com > > My apologies to the group - but for anyone interested, I've lowered the > asking price for my 90 V8 to $4500. Only two things keep it from being > 100% operable - > the Bose amps are going whining > and the rear passenger window switch needs replacing, > > otherwise, everything's been done - engine, tranny, rack, mounts, shocks, > IC and on and on..... > > Contact off list if interested - or if you know someone that might be...:-) > Thanks to all, > Richard Morris > Renton, WA > Cell: 425-417-5556 > Email: RichardMor@AOL.com > > _____________________________________________________________ From maurice.greven at verizon.net Thu Apr 8 10:39:46 2004 From: maurice.greven at verizon.net (Maurice Greven) Date: Thu Apr 8 10:39:47 2004 Subject: [V8] Hall sender / theories? In-Reply-To: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F893A5554@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Message-ID: <002901c41d77$42b3f460$6400a8c0@aecinc.com> After I did my steering rack, my V8 ran very badly. I had noticed a little corrosion in some of the plug wires when I had them off for the rack, so I replaced the plug wires and the car ran GREAT!... I didn't check codes when it was runnung so poorly (huge miss... It was really stumbling.. I could get it to rev up, but it had no power)... I don't know if the plugs not firing would fool it into a hall sender error... Just a thought, Maurice > -----Original Message----- > From: v8-bounces@audifans.com > [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Coleman, David > Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 6:52 AM > To: DasWolfen@aol.com; lyddall@netzero.com; v8@audifans.com > Subject: RE: [V8] Hall sender / theories? > > > > > I still have the same problem of > > really rough idle > > > and hesitation/engine vibration when you push the gas. The > > fault code is > > > 2113 (hall sender), but I've tested the sender and it is > > blinking when it > > > should and seems to have the correct voltages as described > > in the shop > > > manual. > > > > This certainly sounds familiar..... Rough idle, hesitation, fully > > operational hall sensor being coded..... Last time I saw saw > > those three symptoms > > together the T/B was off a tooth. The ecu only looks for the > > hall sensor during a > > specific period of time, if it doesnt see it during that time > > it codes the > > sensor, backs off the timing, and ignores the knock sensors > > I had drafted a response of the same opinion but then deleted > when it seemed to me that this TB hadn't been off. But > perhaps it's slipped. I got the HS code after doing my belt. > I won't go into how sure I was that I had installed the belt > correctly, but suffice to say it was off a tooth and that > damn hall sensor code wouldn't go away. I was sure there was > a sensor problem, but Keith put me right -- I called in a > favor to a local p/a tech, borrowed the cam lock tools, and > sure enough, the belt was off. Redid the belt, the code went bye-bye. > > So if it's slipped, consider yourself effin lucky. > > -DaveC. > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 > question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-> bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a > V8 answer? ... Please help > others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > From ekellock at adelphia.net Thu Apr 8 11:55:07 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Thu Apr 8 11:55:08 2004 Subject: [V8] No Low-Beams Message-ID: <20040408154123.OVFL13425.mta13.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> www.caig.com www.radioshack.com ============================================================ From: Richard Hill Date: 2004/04/07 Wed PM 02:25:19 MDT To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] No Low-Beams Hey fans, Looked through lots of archives but no can find.. Need link to a source for "DeOx-It" contact cleaner. Have to repair low beam lights, intermittant speedo, etc. TIA Rick in MI "90 V8Q --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway - Enter today _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 9 12:15:26 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Fri Apr 9 12:15:28 2004 Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 Message-ID: <000501c41e4d$d2c557c0$6500a8c0@headlappy> Well guys, that time has come. I am looking to sell the V8 to go to the dark side of the turbo crowd. I am looking at getting a 97 A4. Anyhoo, here is a website I put together to help advertise the car online. Don't laugh, it is my first webpage ever. http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-v8qforsale Take care guys, Shawn Head From s4qtro at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 9 12:47:33 2004 From: s4qtro at bellsouth.net (Shawn Head) Date: Fri Apr 9 12:47:35 2004 Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 In-Reply-To: <004701c41e4f$6d7acab0$0e6fa8c0@vrmlt1> Message-ID: <000a01c41e52$5496ff70$6500a8c0@headlappy> Actually there is a full writeup on chris millers site. http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/ the thing you have to make sure of is to get the alarm switch centered correctly. The gears have to be in the proper position or else when you lock the car the alarm will disarm and when you unlock it the alarm will arm. Shawn Head -----Original Message----- From: Matt Smith [mailto:smittypig24@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:27 PM To: 'Shawn Head' Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 Shawn, I see you posting often and you seem to know what you're doing. Sorry to see your selling your beast. You shouldn't have any problem selling it. I had the drivers side door lock problem and replaced the dog leg. But it's still not right. It works, but when I turn to unlock, the new piece is hitting another part of the door handle. Did you do that yourself? Did you get the door lock cylinder repair kit? Do you know what I'm talking about? Any advice for me? Also, putting that spring back on proved to be next to impossible so I didn't. Any advice there? Thanks. -Matt Herndon, VA 1990 V8Q 94,000 miles -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Head Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:15 PM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 Well guys, that time has come. I am looking to sell the V8 to go to the dark side of the turbo crowd. I am looking at getting a 97 A4. Anyhoo, here is a website I put together to help advertise the car online. Don't laugh, it is my first webpage ever. http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-v8qforsale Take care guys, Shawn Head _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 9 13:02:56 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 9 13:02:58 2004 Subject: [V8] Door lock "binding" Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CBB92@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... to be more specific, check out: http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Door Lock Repair ... you may need to enter the link into your browser manually due to the spaces ... the pertinent information is found in an e-mail from Dave Conner (sp?) which reads: The TSB has a sketch which is worth 1000 words I'm sure. The TSB is # 94-04, entitled "Door Lock Key Binding" It says: Condition: After installation of new style operating lever the key may bind in the door lock. Increased diameter of operating lever, p/n 893 837 287A/288A causes interference with lock rod clip. Service: Slightly bevel the edge of white clip. Only remove enough material to obtain clearance, to allow operating lever to rotate without binding. Notice that this is not much more than a cosmetic problem ... the person who updated #2 did not do this but the lock continues to work just fine. Some day if I have to pull the door panel apart I'll get in there and fix it ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > -----Original Message----- > From: Shawn Head [mailto:s4qtro@bellsouth.net] > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 9:47 AM > To: 'Matt Smith'; v8@audifans.com > Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 > > > Actually there is a full writeup on chris millers site. > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/ > > the thing you have to make sure of is to get the alarm switch centered > correctly. The gears have to be in the proper position or > else when you > lock the car the alarm will disarm and when you unlock it the > alarm will > arm. > > Shawn Head > > -----Original Message----- > From: Matt Smith [mailto:smittypig24@yahoo.com] > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:27 PM > To: 'Shawn Head' > Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 > > Shawn, > I see you posting often and you seem to know what you're doing. > Sorry to see your selling your beast. You shouldn't have any problem > selling > it. > I had the drivers side door lock problem and replaced the dog > leg. > But it's still not right. It works, but when I turn to unlock, the new > piece > is hitting another part of the door handle. Did you do that yourself? > Did > you get the door lock cylinder repair kit? Do you know what > I'm talking > about? Any advice for me? Also, putting that spring back on > proved to be > next to impossible so I didn't. Any advice there? > > Thanks. > -Matt > Herndon, VA > 1990 V8Q 94,000 miles > > -----Original Message----- > From: v8-bounces@audifans.com > [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf > Of > Shawn Head > > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:15 PM > To: v8@audifans.com > Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 > > > Well guys, that time has come. I am looking to sell the V8 > to go to the > dark side of the turbo crowd. I am looking at getting a 97 > A4. Anyhoo, > here is a website I put together to help advertise the car > online. Don't > laugh, it is my first webpage ever. > http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-v8qforsale Take care guys, Shawn Head _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From smittypig24 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 9 13:23:53 2004 From: smittypig24 at yahoo.com (Matt Smith) Date: Fri Apr 9 13:23:55 2004 Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 In-Reply-To: <000a01c41e52$5496ff70$6500a8c0@headlappy> Message-ID: <005801c41e57$87066db0$0e6fa8c0@vrmlt1> Thanks for the link. I believe I've done it right, but it just doesn't fit. I think the kit is wrong. The dog leg piece comes with a plastic geared part to it, and that plastic geared part hits the door handle lever bar thingy when you unlock the doors. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? I've left it like that for now as I plan on putting in keyless entry/aftermarket alarm very soon. -Matt -----Original Message----- From: Shawn Head [mailto:s4qtro@bellsouth.net] Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:47 PM To: 'Matt Smith'; v8@audifans.com Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 Actually there is a full writeup on chris millers site. http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/ the thing you have to make sure of is to get the alarm switch centered correctly. The gears have to be in the proper position or else when you lock the car the alarm will disarm and when you unlock it the alarm will arm. Shawn Head -----Original Message----- From: Matt Smith [mailto:smittypig24@yahoo.com] Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:27 PM To: 'Shawn Head' Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 Shawn, I see you posting often and you seem to know what you're doing. Sorry to see your selling your beast. You shouldn't have any problem selling it. I had the drivers side door lock problem and replaced the dog leg. But it's still not right. It works, but when I turn to unlock, the new piece is hitting another part of the door handle. Did you do that yourself? Did you get the door lock cylinder repair kit? Do you know what I'm talking about? Any advice for me? Also, putting that spring back on proved to be next to impossible so I didn't. Any advice there? Thanks. -Matt Herndon, VA 1990 V8Q 94,000 miles -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Head Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:15 PM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 Well guys, that time has come. I am looking to sell the V8 to go to the dark side of the turbo crowd. I am looking at getting a 97 A4. Anyhoo, here is a website I put together to help advertise the car online. Don't laugh, it is my first webpage ever. http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-v8qforsale Take care guys, Shawn Head _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From rbroberg at wi.rr.com Sat Apr 10 15:33:26 2004 From: rbroberg at wi.rr.com (Roland Broberg) Date: Sat Apr 10 15:33:27 2004 Subject: [V8] WTB Bose Delta II References: <20040407132838.11580.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000701c41f32$5cb18460$6500a8c0@kayak> Anyone have a decent fully functioning Bose Delta II for the V8 they want to sell? I'm not ready to buy a reconditioned one. Power switch has failed for the last time. Needs too many rubber key buttons. Tx Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA From dan at magnitude-electronics.com Mon Apr 12 16:44:35 2004 From: dan at magnitude-electronics.com (Dan Hamren) Date: Mon Apr 12 16:44:36 2004 Subject: [V8] 1990 Audi V8 Quattro 240HP 32V All Wheel Drive pics Message-ID: For sale 1990 Audi V8 Quattro. 4 door, automatic, V8 engine (240 HP 32 valve) 133k. Pearl white with grey leather and comfort seats in VERY good condition. AC, PS, PB, PW, PL,CC, factory alarm, sunroof. New Boge Turbogas shocks all around, Tires are at least 60 percent, recently rotated and aligned. New brakes on all 4 corners. New 220W Stereo ( loud as you wanna be!) The body is straight, but there are a couple of dings here and there. Maintenance is up to date. I have lots of expensive receipts from the P.O. Put a lot of my own time and talent into this beast myself. The car has always been well detailed from the engine to the trunk and has always been taken care of. In the last year I have done shocks, O2 sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator, new coolant expansion tank, and other regular maintenance, in the last 6 months, New battery, engine speed sensor, stereo, brakes, probably more stuff that I cant think about right now. I am selling this because I am buying some property in Northern California. I am an Audi Enthusiast and have owned Audi's for over 16 years. This car is in great shape. I just spent over $1700.00 in the engine. Long story which I explain down below. UPDATE FROM PREVIOUS POST>>>>> The car also has a brand new windshield, a 220W CD stereo that has been professionally installed, the speakers have all been re-wired with high output flat wire and the speakers are high end 250W+ capable (Earthquake 350W 2 way front, Alpine 250W 3 way rear brand new), The bad>>> Driver seat heater does not work. Dummy light for brake pad sensor is on (ironically came on a week after i had the brakes done ) Cruise WORKS FINE. Drivers Rear window switch bad ( window motor works fine ) The hood release cable broke and I am in the process of fixing that. Until then I can not show pictures of the engine bay, but it is beautiful! I keep the engines in all my cars super clean! Email me for pictures. Car is in Redwood City KBB pricing Retail $7,500 Private Party $5,265 MY PRICE $4,700 Email me for more pictures and contact info. Thanks Dan AUDIFANS PRICE $4,000 Leaks a little oil, but over all in very good shape!! Honestly!! Email me for pictures.. $1700.00 worth of work saga.. I took off the passenger side disty cap, and when I put it back on I broke the cam shaft seal cap. Tried a replacement cap, but it did not work. The replacement had to match exactly or it would break, which it did. Got a replacement head from Force ( insert vulgar profanity ) the guaranteed working head needed the valves re-ground and re-seated ( guaranteed to be a head just not guaranteed to work right as I soon found out GRUMBLE GRUMBLE). Anyway long story short.. its got a refurbished passenger side head. I asked if I should have the other head done, my mechanic said that the one that they took off looked fine, and to not do an un-necessary job. Anyway, that's the story.. comes with half the top end done! Bet you never heard that before. Still working on the hood, that's a little tougher than I though! Any help would be appreciated.. Selling because I am buying some land in Northern California and I need it for the down.. Dan Hamren From QuickAudi at aol.com Mon Apr 12 18:15:37 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 12 18:15:39 2004 Subject: [V8] 7 hour oxygen sensor Message-ID: <276D905B.2503A2A9.028D39B4@aol.com> Yes, the subject line is correct. My oxygen sensor removal and replacement took 7 hours. After the VAG-COM gave an intermittent OXS code (came on, then off, then on, etc.), I decided to remove it at the house. So, Sunday afternoon, I lifted the 4000 lb. pig up high enough with a floor jack for me to squeeze under. Of course, the oxygen sensor ratchet tool wouldn't fit, so I cut the wires (no going back now!) and put the 7/8" wrench on the back end. It didn't budge, despite all of my bodybuilding as of late. Next up, get the baby mallet and whack away. It budged. So, the wrench and I get to work, and after about 100 rotations (no exaggeration) of me turning then hammering, I start to wonder if it wasn't screwed through the front of the engine. Extremely close inspection reveals that it is about halfway out, and when it starts to hop onto the next thread and come out, it goes back in. I knew that wasn't good, so with some persuasion (used the mallet on the sensor to "lift" it, similar to the lift and cut system, but not really) I finally got it out. I pulled several threads from the sensor out of the hole and surveyed the damage. Oh yeah, there's no way another sensor is going to go straight back in. This had me a little over an hour into the project, and I needed a tap. Well, guess what? In Waverly, TN, at about 6 p.m. on Easter Sunday, no one has a tap set around. Go figure. Monday morning, dad had done some research and found out that a 18 mm x 1.5 tap should fit (of note, this is also the same size as a spark plug hole.) No one has a tap over 1/2", so we find a spark plug thread chaser. It'll have to do. Using the "work it in a little way, then work it out" method (sometimes required the use of the mallet, other times the big red, solid metal axe), I made some progress in recutting the hole. When I got it finished, the thread chaser had quite rounded threads, but the job was done. Dad did the crimping for the new sensor (a Bosch 13913 generic sensor for $40 at Advance) and put the sensor in, and with me working it from below and him from above, we reconnected the sensor to it's hole. Car started; I'm absolutely enthralled, cause now I can get back to school. I had to skip class, but I had to be at work that afternoon. Oh yeah, did it help? Yeah, probably. I used to have that "stepping acceleration" that everyone complained about, and it is much less noticeable/gone, and my acceleration seems to be a little better now. I'll check gas mileage and let everyone know and also keep updated on the codes and acceleration problems. Joel '90 V8q (Carmen is happy now) '86 5kcstq (team doorhandle has struck again!) From dsaad at icehouse.net Tue Apr 13 11:12:25 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Tue Apr 13 11:12:26 2004 Subject: [V8] 7 hour oxygen sensor In-Reply-To: <276D905B.2503A2A9.028D39B4@aol.com> References: <276D905B.2503A2A9.028D39B4@aol.com> Message-ID: <1081869158.407c0366b7ee1@webmail.icehouse.net> Sometimes it is easier to do things the hard way... It is not that big a deal to remove the whole crosover pipe assembly. If you did that then there is a good chance you could have used heat or penetrating oil or whatever to get the old sensor out intact. It certainly would have saved you some time. The crosover is held on by bolts - so if they are also corroded you just use a SIX point socket and a big breaker bar to twist them off. New bolts are cheap. If the sensors threaded hole is damaged beyond repair, you can buy a new "bung" from any decent speed shop. This is a common problem. A machine shop can replace the bung for a lot less than a new crossover costs. Dave Quoting QuickAudi@aol.com: > Yes, the subject line is correct. My oxygen sensor removal and > replacement took 7 hours. After the VAG-COM gave an intermittent OXS > code (came on, then off, then on, etc.), I decided to remove it at the > house. So, Sunday afternoon, I lifted the 4000 lb. pig up high enough > with a floor jack for me to squeeze under. Of course, the oxygen sensor > ratchet tool wouldn't fit, so I cut the wires (no going back now!) and > put the 7/8" wrench on the back end. It didn't budge, despite all of my > bodybuilding as of late. Next up, get the baby mallet and whack away. > It budged. So, the wrench and I get to work, and after about 100 > rotations (no exaggeration) of me turning then hammering, I start to > wonder if it wasn't screwed through the front of the engine. Extremely > close inspection reveals that it is about halfway out, and when it > starts to hop onto the next thread and come out, it goes back in. I > knew that wasn't good, so with some persuasion (used the mallet on the > sensor to "lift" it, similar to the lift and cut system, but not really) > I finally got it out. I pulled several threads from the sensor out of > the hole and surveyed the damage. Oh yeah, there's no way another > sensor is going to go straight back in. This had me a little over an > hour into the project, and I needed a tap. Well, guess what? In > Waverly, TN, at about 6 p.m. on Easter Sunday, no one has a tap set > around. Go figure. > Monday morning, dad had done some research and found out that a 18 mm x > 1.5 tap should fit (of note, this is also the same size as a spark plug > hole.) No one has a tap over 1/2", so we find a spark plug thread > chaser. It'll have to do. Using the "work it in a little way, then > work it out" method (sometimes required the use of the mallet, other > times the big red, solid metal axe), I made some progress in recutting > the hole. When I got it finished, the thread chaser had quite rounded > threads, but the job was done. Dad did the crimping for the new sensor > (a Bosch 13913 generic sensor for $40 at Advance) and put the sensor in, > and with me working it from below and him from above, we reconnected the > sensor to it's hole. Car started; I'm absolutely enthralled, cause now > I can get back to school. I had to skip class, but I had to be at work > that afternoon. > Oh yeah, did it help? Yeah, probably. I used to have that "stepping > acceleration" that everyone complained about, and it is much less > noticeable/gone, and my acceleration seems to be a little better now. > I'll check gas mileage and let everyone know and also keep updated on > the codes and acceleration problems. > > > Joel > '90 V8q (Carmen is happy now) > '86 5kcstq (team doorhandle has struck again!) > From scott.olson at nokia.com Tue Apr 13 17:15:00 2004 From: scott.olson at nokia.com (scott.olson@nokia.com) Date: Tue Apr 13 17:15:01 2004 Subject: [V8] Electrical Charging Problem Message-ID: <01018E45A85FCF418A2CC5FEF27D0AE201C83A79@daebe006.americas.nokia.com> 1990 V8 Auto. 120k A few weeks ago, Mike LaRosa wrote an excellent 'gory details' report on testing and troubleshooting the cable that runs from the battery to the alternator. I have been experiencing an intermittent alternator light (usually at slow speeds, and with A/C running). So, I pulled out the tools on Sunday and went to work. Multimeter probes: Car at rest. 11.9v Car running. 13.7v both readings taken at the front battery (-) and (+) posts and at the battery are identical, so I decided is not a corroded cable. What do you think is wrong? Alternator? One in the car is original.... Is 120k about the life for this item? Battery is 1.5 years old. Car starts quickly, no stumble. Regards, ScottO Texas. Will be using A/C again by the weekend. From ping2day2 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 13 17:53:12 2004 From: ping2day2 at yahoo.com (Scott) Date: Tue Apr 13 17:53:13 2004 Subject: [V8] 1990 V8 Pearl White For Sale Message-ID: <20040413215308.21882.qmail@web61104.mail.yahoo.com> I think i am going to be listing my V8 on ebay shortly due to a money situation. I love the car but it has to go. It is a 1990 Pearl White V8. I have receipts for all the work done over the past three years. The transmission was done $2000 plus into that, timing belts, the list goes on and on. I just put new tires on a couple of months ago. The interior is in perfect condition. Email me if you know anyone interested, i'm thinking around $5500. I can send pics also. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th From v8q at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 13 19:22:54 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Tue Apr 13 19:22:55 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Electrical Charging Problem References: <01018E45A85FCF418A2CC5FEF27D0AE201C83A79@daebe006.americas.nokia.com> Message-ID: <407C76D8.3070709@bellsouth.net> I would guess the brushes in the alternator. I had my alternator in the '92 go bad about 6 weeks back (nice having a large heap in the garage to pull spare parts from). Took it in to a local rebuilder yesterday as I noticed one slip ring was really worn badly. He called today - rotor was shorted, all sorts of issues. Still only $122.50 for a full rebuild, and its already done... scott.olson@nokia.com wrote: >1990 V8 Auto. 120k >A few weeks ago, Mike LaRosa wrote an excellent 'gory details' report on testing and troubleshooting the cable that runs from the battery to the alternator. >I have been experiencing an intermittent alternator light (usually at slow speeds, and with A/C running). So, I pulled out the tools on Sunday and went to work. > >Multimeter probes: >Car at rest. 11.9v >Car running. 13.7v >both readings taken at the front battery (-) and (+) posts and at the battery are identical, so I decided is not a corroded cable. > >What do you think is wrong? >Alternator? One in the car is original.... Is 120k about the life for this item? >Battery is 1.5 years old. >Car starts quickly, no stumble. > >Regards, >ScottO >Texas. >Will be using A/C again by the weekend. > > > From QuickAudi at aol.com Tue Apr 13 21:22:12 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Tue Apr 13 21:22:13 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Electrical Charging Problem Message-ID: <21323A6A.65D3F843.028D39B4@aol.com> No doubt it is the brushes in the alternator. I replaced them and the regulator for about $60 (I let someone do it), and I'm glad I did, cause it was on it's last leg. Replace them now before you get stuck 6 hours from home on the day before Christmas. (Yup, happened to me in the 5kcstq.) Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq In a message dated 4/13/2004 7:22:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, v8-request@audifans.com writes: > What do you think is wrong? > Alternator? One in the car is original.... Is 120k about > the life for this item? From dbookshar at ameritech.net Tue Apr 13 23:14:14 2004 From: dbookshar at ameritech.net (Duane Bookshar) Date: Tue Apr 13 23:14:16 2004 Subject: [V8] Steering Rack In-Reply-To: <001701c417a7$a155f980$6500a8c0@headlappy> Message-ID: Thanks for the tip on Jorgen Automotive. I sent the ZF rack via UPS late on Friday, they received it on Monday and I had it back on Wednesday. The price has gone up to $220, but the service was excellent. Sorry to hear you're selling your V8Q. From the pictures, it's the cleanest one I've ever seen and I might have been interested if I knew of it before I decided to tackle the top end rebuild on mine. Oh well, I'm sure I'll be better off for the experience. Enjoy the A4. Duane 90V8Q 76K -----Original Message----- From: Shawn Head [mailto:s4qtro@bellsouth.net] Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 12:10 AM To: 'Duane Bookshar'; v8@audifans.com Subject: RE: [V8] Steering Rack Just send the rack out to Jorgen Automotive in Ann Arbor Michigan. Cost 180 for them to rebuild it and you just ship it to them and they'll ship it back. Total down time approx 5 days if you send it on Saturday you'll have it back by thurs or Friday. 800-333-0600 Shawn Head -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bookshar Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 10:26 PM To: V8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Steering Rack After the TB mishap (gross negligence on my part) I took the plunge and pulled the heads. Looks like I got off easy with only 2 bent intake valves. Now it's time to make up for many years of neglect and the list of replacement parts is getting awfully long. Once the top end was removed, I noticed the torn boot on the steering rack, so out it came (Rubik must have worked for Audi after he finished inventing the cube). My question; has anyone on the list ever rebuilt a rack themselves? Looks like I can buy a replacement boot, but haven't noticed any other seal kit available. Other than the torn boot, it's never given me any signs of failure, but as long as it's out maybe I should replace some seals or whatever. Or have I really lost my mind? Any tips would be much appreciated. The list has been very helpful so far, I just wish I started following it sooner. Duane '90 V8Q 76k _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Wed Apr 14 07:51:37 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Wed Apr 14 07:51:38 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Electrical Charging Problem References: <01018E45A85FCF418A2CC5FEF27D0AE201C83A79@daebe006.americas.nokia.com> Message-ID: <407D25C6.57F30F02@sun.com> looks like battery to me, with the car off that battery should be reading about 12.8. Mike, glad you liked the gory details :) scott.olson@nokia.com wrote: > > 1990 V8 Auto. 120k > A few weeks ago, Mike LaRosa wrote an excellent 'gory details' report on testing and troubleshooting the cable that runs from the battery to the alternator. > I have been experiencing an intermittent alternator light (usually at slow speeds, and with A/C running). So, I pulled out the tools on Sunday and went to work. > > Multimeter probes: > Car at rest. 11.9v > Car running. 13.7v > both readings taken at the front battery (-) and (+) posts and at the battery are identical, so I decided is not a corroded cable. > > What do you think is wrong? > Alternator? One in the car is original.... Is 120k about the life for this item? > Battery is 1.5 years old. > Car starts quickly, no stumble. > > Regards, > ScottO > Texas. > Will be using A/C again by the weekend. -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM Wed Apr 14 08:37:22 2004 From: Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM (Michael Larosa Jr) Date: Wed Apr 14 08:37:23 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Electrical Charging Problem References: <01018E45A85FCF418A2CC5FEF27D0AE201C83A79@daebe006.americas.nokia.com> <407D25C6.57F30F02@sun.com> Message-ID: <407D307D.D15B17B3@sun.com> hhhmmmm, on further thought, perhaps 2 problems.... Scott, I'd hook up the multimeter onto the battery, take it for a ride, when the alt light comes on what do you get on the multimeter ? Mike, Michael Larosa Jr wrote: > > looks like battery to me, with the car off that battery should be reading about 12.8. > > Mike, glad you liked the gory details :) > > scott.olson@nokia.com wrote: > > > > 1990 V8 Auto. 120k > > A few weeks ago, Mike LaRosa wrote an excellent 'gory details' report on testing and troubleshooting the cable that runs from the battery to the alternator. > > I have been experiencing an intermittent alternator light (usually at slow speeds, and with A/C running). So, I pulled out the tools on Sunday and went to work. > > > > Multimeter probes: > > Car at rest. 11.9v > > Car running. 13.7v > > both readings taken at the front battery (-) and (+) posts and at the battery are identical, so I decided is not a corroded cable. > > > > What do you think is wrong? > > Alternator? One in the car is original.... Is 120k about the life for this item? > > Battery is 1.5 years old. > > Car starts quickly, no stumble. > > > > Regards, > > ScottO > > Texas. > > Will be using A/C again by the weekend. > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! -- _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 Email:mc.larosa@sun.com From LJRacing at aol.com Wed Apr 14 23:31:42 2004 From: LJRacing at aol.com (LJRacing@aol.com) Date: Wed Apr 14 23:31:43 2004 Subject: [V8] for sale 1990 v8 quattro Message-ID: <3e.3da12174.2daf5c18@aol.com> hi there fellow listers 1990 v8 quattro,blue 137000 miles clean,timing belt waterpump all done 19000 miles ago,power steering pump done,rack needs to be done,have another car for wife, my loss your gain asking 3500 or obo negotiable too many cars in the driveway need to get rid of thanks lenny email or give me a call with questions 317-843-9929 no calls after 900 pm son sleeping thanks From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Thu Apr 15 12:41:36 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Apr 15 12:41:37 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Electrical Charging Problem Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F018CC266@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... assuming that it is getting fully charged. If you leave the battery on a charger for a while and still see the battery not up to 12.6 then you can start to suspect the battery. I'm thinking the battery is OK because one bad cell would drop you down to 10.5 volts or so. Funny, since #344 was sitting I put the battery on the charger ... and forgot to take it off ... ended up cooking one cell ... ... I'd say the prime suspect is the alternator ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > looks like battery to me, with the car off that battery > should be reading about 12.8. > > > Mike, glad you liked the gory details :) > > > > scott.olson@nokia.com wrote: > > > > 1990 V8 Auto. 120k > > A few weeks ago, Mike LaRosa wrote an excellent 'gory > details' report on testing and troubleshooting the cable that > runs from the battery to the alternator. > > I have been experiencing an intermittent alternator light > (usually at slow speeds, and with A/C running). So, I pulled > out the tools on Sunday and went to work. > > > > Multimeter probes: > > Car at rest. 11.9v > > Car running. 13.7v > > both readings taken at the front battery (-) and (+) posts > and at the battery are identical, so I decided is not a > corroded cable. > > > > What do you think is wrong? > > Alternator? One in the car is original.... Is 120k about > the life for this item? > > Battery is 1.5 years old. > > Car starts quickly, no stumble. > > > > Regards, > > ScottO > > Texas. > > Will be using A/C again by the weekend. > > -- > > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ Mike LaRosa > _/ _/ _/ _/_/ _/ TSE - HAS > _/_/_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ 1617 Southwood Drive > _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/ Nashua, NH 03063 > _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/ _/ > S U N Phone: 781/442-1250 > S E R V I C E S Fax: 781/442-5488 > Email:mc.larosa@sun.com > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v> 8 > Have an Audi V8 > question? Check the Audifans > Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB > ... all contributions welcome! > From rbroberg at wi.rr.com Fri Apr 16 20:03:51 2004 From: rbroberg at wi.rr.com (Roland Broberg) Date: Fri Apr 16 20:03:52 2004 Subject: [V8] WTB: Bose Delta II (Blaupunkt) Stereo Head Unit or Parts or Replacement References: Message-ID: <001f01c4240f$204fda30$6500a8c0@kayak> I am completely frustrated trying to fix the Bose Delta II stereo head from the V8. I know what it needs, but no one will sell me the parts. I tried Carstereohelp.com who said no to sales, yes to ~~$170 flat rate fix. They sent me to Blaupunkt who was not usefully responsive. They sent me to Midwest Electronics who said, too bad we can't sell you the parts you know you need, but we can fix your stereo, and we cannot tell you what it will take until you send it to us. That means I have to reassemble it just to send it to them to re-disassemble it so they can tell me that it needs a power switch-volume-station change potentiometer assembly, which I already know. Anyone know of a better method to get this part as well as the rubber button springs (even at $8 each)? I tried a Gamma unit from the wife's 93 100 CSQ. While it works it does not mute the remote amps when powering up/down or changing station so I get a horrible crack-thump when doing so. Speakers won't last long that way. For those of you that have pulled out your Deltas to replace with something fancier do you have the old functioning head units for sale? I do not recall that anyone has described an acceptable head replacement that can utilize the Audi amplified speakers. Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA 90 V8 93 100CSQ Avant From jward at mti-interactive.com Fri Apr 16 23:31:09 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Fri Apr 16 23:31:10 2004 Subject: [V8] WTB: Bose Delta II (Blaupunkt) Stereo Head Unit or Parts orReplacement Message-ID: I once replaced the potentiometer in my '85 4Runner. Very easy to do; the hardest part (as you mentioned) was finding the replacement part. You might go to the biggest car stereo shop in your area and ask them where they send their stuff for repair. When I was an installer, we always sent our stuff to Transistor Service Company in Beaverton. I think they referred me to the place I bought my potentiometer (can't remember where, that was over 10 years ago.) You have 3 options... Replace the radio / speakers, find a good used Bose Delta II, or try your luck at a stealing the potentiometer out of a different factory Blaupunkt and hope it uses the same part as yours. Good luck, - Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces+jward=mti-interactive.com@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces+jward=mti-interactive.com@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Roland Broberg Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 5:01 PM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] WTB: Bose Delta II (Blaupunkt) Stereo Head Unit or Parts orReplacement I am completely frustrated trying to fix the Bose Delta II stereo head from the V8. I know what it needs, but no one will sell me the parts. I tried Carstereohelp.com who said no to sales, yes to ~~$170 flat rate fix. They sent me to Blaupunkt who was not usefully responsive. They sent me to Midwest Electronics who said, too bad we can't sell you the parts you know you need, but we can fix your stereo, and we cannot tell you what it will take until you send it to us. That means I have to reassemble it just to send it to them to re-disassemble it so they can tell me that it needs a power switch-volume-station change potentiometer assembly, which I already know. Anyone know of a better method to get this part as well as the rubber button springs (even at $8 each)? I tried a Gamma unit from the wife's 93 100 CSQ. While it works it does not mute the remote amps when powering up/down or changing station so I get a horrible crack-thump when doing so. Speakers won't last long that way. For those of you that have pulled out your Deltas to replace with something fancier do you have the old functioning head units for sale? I do not recall that anyone has described an acceptable head replacement that can utilize the Audi amplified speakers. Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA 90 V8 93 100CSQ Avant _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From rbroberg at wi.rr.com Sat Apr 17 10:53:39 2004 From: rbroberg at wi.rr.com (Roland Broberg) Date: Sat Apr 17 10:53:43 2004 Subject: [V8] V6 Transmission Dip Stick Length Message-ID: <001a01c4248b$6daaca20$6500a8c0@kayak> My wife drives a 93 100CSQ Avant. Would one of you kind folks with a similar car please take two measurements of the transmission dip stick for me, please? Dip stick below \/ top mark 0--|--------------------------------------------------- | < dip tube stop to top mark > | < dip tube to bottom of stick > I'd buy a stick but to hard to get to dealer with my hours and their hours. I made the one for the V8 so I can make one for the V6 given your measurements. TIA! Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA 90 V8Q 93 100 CSQ Avant From david at styletrack401k.com Sat Apr 17 12:01:56 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Sat Apr 17 12:01:57 2004 Subject: [V8] V6 Transmission Dip Stick Length Message-ID: My wife drives a '96 A6 avant, with (I think) the same V6, but there is nowhere to even put a dipstick - the transmission is filled through hole on the side. Did the earlier car have a filler pipe above? Dave '90 V8Q '96 A6w + Tim Olsen's 90 V8Q that I'm trying to get started - current suspect = fuel pump From rbroberg at wi.rr.com Sat Apr 17 12:05:50 2004 From: rbroberg at wi.rr.com (Roland Broberg) Date: Sat Apr 17 12:05:52 2004 Subject: [V8] V6 Transmission Dip Stick Length References: Message-ID: <000501c42495$83903690$6500a8c0@kayak> Yes. Like the V8 there is a filler pipe with a plastic cover that accepts a dipstick not supplied. Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Lyddall" To: Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 11:01 AM Subject: [V8] V6 Transmission Dip Stick Length > My wife drives a '96 A6 avant, with (I think) the same V6, but there is > nowhere to even put a dipstick - the transmission is filled through hole on > the side. Did the earlier car have a filler pipe above? > > > > > > Dave > > '90 V8Q > > '96 A6w > > > > + Tim Olsen's 90 V8Q that I'm trying to get started - current suspect = fuel > pump > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From QuickAudi at aol.com Sat Apr 17 15:07:43 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Sat Apr 17 15:07:45 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: WTB: Bose Delta II (Blaupunkt) Stereo Head Unit or Parts Message-ID: <475E585F.6DEC645D.028D39B4@aol.com> Dad and I fixed mine (before I took it out completely) with some really dense, hard foam. If you take the radio apart, put some behind each button. It sits in the little holes very well and is definitely cheaper that $8. Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq In a message dated 4/17/2004 10:53:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time, v8-request@audifans.com writes: > Anyone know of a better method to get this part as well as > the rubber > button springs (even at $8 each)? From Reg.Harder at att.net Sat Apr 17 15:15:56 2004 From: Reg.Harder at att.net (Register Harder) Date: Sat Apr 17 15:15:57 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Bose Delta II (Blaupunkt) Stereo Head Unit or Parts References: <20040417145345.AEEDBC1815@audifans.com> Message-ID: <001a01c424b0$61c59800$0100a8c0@WALT3COMPROOM> Can't help with the potentiometer assy., but several of the buttons on my unit were dying so I replaced each bad button spring with a small piece of a very cheap open cell plastic sponge. It cuts and shapes easily, is springy but compresses well, and solved my problem. You probably have the ingenuity to determine the right shape for the sponge/spring since you got this far with the diagnosis. ...Walt Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2004 19:01:25 -0500 From: "Roland Broberg" Subject: [V8] WTB: Bose Delta II (Blaupunkt) Stereo Head Unit or Parts or Replacement To: Message-ID: <001f01c4240f$204fda30$6500a8c0@kayak> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I am completely frustrated trying to fix the Bose Delta II stereo head from the V8. I know what it needs, but no one will sell me the parts. I tried Carstereohelp.com who said no to sales, yes to ~~$170 flat rate fix. They sent me to Blaupunkt who was not usefully responsive. They sent me to Midwest Electronics who said, too bad we can't sell you the parts you know you need, but we can fix your stereo, and we cannot tell you what it will take until you send it to us. That means I have to reassemble it just to send it to them to re-disassemble it so they can tell me that it needs a power switch-volume-station change potentiometer assembly, which I already know. Anyone know of a better method to get this part as well as the rubber button springs (even at $8 each)? I tried a Gamma unit from the wife's 93 100 CSQ. While it works it does not mute the remote amps when powering up/down or changing station so I get a horrible crack-thump when doing so. Speakers won't last long that way. For those of you that have pulled out your Deltas to replace with something fancier do you have the old functioning head units for sale? I do not recall that anyone has described an acceptable head replacement that can utilize the Audi amplified speakers. Roland Broberg Broberg Engineering-BECO Delafield, Wisconsin USA 90 V8 93 100CSQ Avant From CoultL at aol.com Sat Apr 17 17:55:12 2004 From: CoultL at aol.com (CoultL@aol.com) Date: Sat Apr 17 17:55:13 2004 Subject: [V8] Slow Coolant Leak Message-ID: <269F8E1A.455A46FC.0004871B@aol.com> I have a very slow coolant leak that I can?t locate. The level in my reservoir will drop about an inch per 500 to 1000 miles. The expansion tank, lower radiator hose, and both expansion tank hoses are new. The water pump has about 40k on it. The car never puts out white smoke. I realize that this could be many different things but I was wonder if anyone had some insight. I can't hear any hissing or see any steam after I shut the engine down. I want to fix it before it gets major and puts me onto the side of the road. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks in advance. -Justin Lewis From david at styletrack401k.com Sat Apr 17 18:59:04 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Sat Apr 17 18:59:05 2004 Subject: [V8] Fuel Pump removal Message-ID: Anyone have a tip on how to remove the fuel pump without "Special tool 3214"? (All hoses etc. disconnected - just need to pull the actual pump out.) Dave '90V8Q '96A6w +Tim Olsen's non-running 90V8Q From jward at mti-interactive.com Sat Apr 17 19:03:08 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Sat Apr 17 19:03:09 2004 Subject: [V8] Fuel Pump removal Message-ID: >From one Dave to another... - Jeremy -------------------------------- The large bosch pump has to rotate about 5 degrees counter clockwise to unlock for removal. Supposedly you use a special tool to do this. I've done 3 pumps now (without special tools). This time was the easiest. First when you look at the pump in the tank, look for the 2 dimples/cutouts in the rim so you can note the orientation. What made removal and replacement so easy was a set of Craftsman mechanics gloves I picked up a few weeks ago. The provide much more grip for unlocking/relocking the fuel pump in place. Total time - about 1.5 hours. Tip 2 - if you can't get the threaded fitting on the underside of the cover off, remove the float by disassembling the hinge/arm attatchment. Its hard to describe, but looking at it, its simple to understand. Then you can remove the pump/hose and cover as a unit, get it out on the ground and work on it where you can really put some torque on it... Dave Head 3 V8qs, eyeballing a 4th... -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of David Lyddall Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 3:59 PM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Fuel Pump removal Anyone have a tip on how to remove the fuel pump without "Special tool 3214"? (All hoses etc. disconnected - just need to pull the actual pump out.) Dave '90V8Q '96A6w +Tim Olsen's non-running 90V8Q _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From david at styletrack401k.com Sat Apr 17 19:20:09 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Sat Apr 17 19:20:09 2004 Subject: [V8] Fuel Pump removal Message-ID: Thanks Jeremy / Dave. OK - the pump is out and very dead - hooked it straight to the battery and nothing happens. Is this pump V8 specific or is there another car I might find it on? Also - There is thick sludge around the top of the pump and lots of corrosion on the float assembly. Is this normal? The car has not been driven for a couple of years from what I understand. Dave StyleTrack Investment Advisors Phone: (801) 305 1026 Toll free: (888) 704 401k Fax: (530) 303 0023 From knotnook at traverse.com Sat Apr 17 20:14:07 2004 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Sat Apr 17 20:14:07 2004 Subject: [V8] Fuel Pump removal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.1.20040417201303.00b124f0@traverse.com> I couldn't release mine from its carrier in my 200q20v, so I got that tool. But others have reported that using a pair of leather gloves let them twist on the pump holder enough to break it loose. What you're doing is breaking loose a plastic bump that's held in a little recess. Once it moves, you're home free. At 04:58 PM 4/17/2004 -0600, David Lyddall wrote: >Anyone have a tip on how to remove the fuel pump without "Special tool >3214"? > > > >(All hoses etc. disconnected - just need to pull the actual pump out.) From lorberg at adelphia.net Sat Apr 17 21:04:07 2004 From: lorberg at adelphia.net (Gunter) Date: Sat Apr 17 21:04:08 2004 Subject: [V8] A/C electrical circuit Message-ID: <00fd01c424e1$08afff90$c402a8c0@VAIO> Anyone know of a way to check if an A/C relay is faulty (other than replacing with another relay)? My compressor does not come on BUT if I bridge the relay terminals 30 and 87 it does no problem. There are no error codes when I do a system check on channel 17 on the Head Unit. I thought that it might be the under-the-dash A/C controller module because I had a front windshield leak that caused water damage in the area............whole relay/fuse box had to be replaced by Keith of Audi Connection due to corrosion...........BUT the A/C controller box and its contents look OK............. The inside of the A/C relay itself also looks OK...........no signs of corrosion or other problems Again, anyone know of a good way to test the relay to see if it's faulty..............could I run a small current across it to see if it switches on? (how much voltage?) One thing............the power lead to the relay.........which is #87a............only has 0.06 Volts being supplied to it when the car is running and the A/C system is on (again, the only that does not seem to be turning on is the compressor UNLESS I bridge the circuit...........then it works quite nicely) I don't know if that's too low to switch the relay.............and if it is too low.............what could be causing it to be too low? Hoping to sort this out..............Spring has finally arrived...............the leather seats will be far too cozy if I don't get the A/C up and running. Gunter 1990 V8 140 000 From v8q at bellsouth.net Sat Apr 17 22:56:28 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Sat Apr 17 22:56:30 2004 Subject: [V8] A/C electrical circuit References: <00fd01c424e1$08afff90$c402a8c0@VAIO> Message-ID: <4081EEE9.8000409@bellsouth.net> Could be low or high pressure cutout switches bad - they plus a high temp cutout also control that relay. Gunter wrote: >Anyone know of a way to check if an A/C relay is faulty (other than replacing with another relay)? > >My compressor does not come on BUT if I bridge the relay terminals 30 and 87 it does no problem. > >There are no error codes when I do a system check on channel 17 on the Head Unit. > >I thought that it might be the under-the-dash A/C controller module because I had a front windshield leak that caused water damage in the area............whole relay/fuse box had to be replaced by Keith of Audi Connection due to corrosion...........BUT the A/C controller box and its contents look OK............. > >The inside of the A/C relay itself also looks OK...........no signs of corrosion or other problems > > >Again, anyone know of a good way to test the relay to see if it's faulty..............could I run a small current across it to see if it switches on? (how much voltage?) > >One thing............the power lead to the relay.........which is #87a............only has 0.06 Volts being supplied to it when the car is running and the A/C system is on (again, the only that does not seem to be turning on is the compressor UNLESS I bridge the circuit...........then it works quite nicely) I don't know if that's too low to switch the relay.............and if it is too low.............what could be causing it to be too low? > > >Hoping to sort this out..............Spring has finally arrived...............the leather seats will be far too cozy if I don't get the A/C up and running. > >Gunter >1990 V8 140 000 >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From QuickAudi at aol.com Sat Apr 17 23:54:38 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Sat Apr 17 23:54:42 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Slow Coolant Leak Message-ID: <031D574D.5EB0C3B3.028D39B4@aol.com> Just had this problem. Never could find the leak, but if your windshield fogged up at night, I'd be willing to bet that your heater core is leaking. After taking mine out and replacing it, we found a puddle that actually made itself to the driver's side. If your heater core is an original, this might be a good indication that you need to replace yours. Mine "seems" to run a little cooler now as well. My car had about 143k on the old one. Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq In a message dated 4/17/2004 10:56:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, v8-request@audifans.com writes: > I have a very slow coolant leak that I can?t locate. The level in my reservoir will drop about an inch per 500 to 1000 miles. The expansion tank, lower radiator hose, and both expansion tank hoses are new. The water pump has about 40k on it. The car never puts out white smoke. I realize that this could be many different things but I was wonder if anyone had some insight. I can't hear any hissing or see any steam after I shut the engine down. I want to fix it before it gets > major and puts me onto the side of the road. From QuickAudi at aol.com Sun Apr 18 00:01:27 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Sun Apr 18 00:01:28 2004 Subject: [V8] Sunroof relay/motor problems Message-ID: <06D1DC96.4F9919C8.028D39B4@aol.com> Ok guys, need some troubleshooting help. My sunroof just quit working last summer. I could push the button all I wanted, but nothing helped. I finally got home and swapped out the relays with one from a 5k, and it started working again. However, sometimes it seems to forget where it is. It will roll from moonroof to sunroof without stopping, or vice versa. Today, the relay went out again. I actually just pulled it out of the motor, turned the car on, turned it off, put the relay back on, and turned the car back on. This got the system back long enough for me to close the sunroof. My questions: is the relay(s) bad, or is the motor bad, or both? Is this what is causing it quit working, or should I start to investigate other wiring areas? Also, why would it not stop at the closed point? Is one of the switches bad, maybe? Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq From QuickAudi at aol.com Sun Apr 18 00:03:49 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Sun Apr 18 00:03:51 2004 Subject: [V8] interior door question Message-ID: <49FC3807.306C021C.028D39B4@aol.com> You know those little white or black pins (for lack of a better description) that sit in little holes in the door panel that snap into place when you pop them into the holes in the door frame? I need some of those; my passenger side door is missing three, at least (stupid stereo installers...) Where would I get some? Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq From wilke_jb at yahoo.com Sun Apr 18 15:36:41 2004 From: wilke_jb at yahoo.com (Jason Wilkerson) Date: Sun Apr 18 15:36:43 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Slow Coolant Leak In-Reply-To: <031D574D.5EB0C3B3.028D39B4@aol.com> Message-ID: <20040418193639.71609.qmail@web41002.mail.yahoo.com> I have the same symptoms - I haven't pulled it apart yet but I am guessing on the two o-rings that go into the back of each head - it could be small enough to just burn off without you seeing the smoke. Pull the air box and see if you can see anything wet down there. I had a heater hose with a pinhole in it about 6mo. ago - nice and hidden, had to let it get bigger to find it! Good Luck, Jason __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From lorberg at adelphia.net Sun Apr 18 23:20:06 2004 From: lorberg at adelphia.net (Gunter) Date: Sun Apr 18 23:20:08 2004 Subject: [V8] Radio Antenna Connectors Message-ID: <00ce01c425bd$348032c0$c402a8c0@VAIO> Another question while I'm on a roll.......... Does anyone know how to quickly differentiate between the two antenna leads that feed into the radio...............I found two male prong antenna connector cables (at least that's how they look to me) but one is smaller than the other and does not look like other universal connectors I've seen.............I'm going to assume that the smaller one is for the rear window..............but someone else might know otherwise??? I've played around with my circuit tester but no luck in clarifying this for myself......... Thanks, Gunter Cleveland 1990 V8 From barberat at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 10:39:13 2004 From: barberat at yahoo.com (Thomas Barbera) Date: Mon Apr 19 10:39:14 2004 Subject: [V8] Blue smoke Message-ID: <20040419143909.71278.qmail@web60810.mail.yahoo.com> Fellow V8 fans, I've been noticing recently blue smoke eminating from my tailpipe when I start the car and on acceleration. I'm figuring it is either the valve seals are leaking or the oil is getting into the intake through the crankcase breather. Any suggestions on how i can test for the problem without just replacing everything? I've heard of this problem with the crankcase breather, but what causes it? Yes I'm noticing considerable oil consumption, about 1 qt every 500 miles, but I'm also leaking oil at the distributors. I slso need to do a compression test to make sure it isn't my rings. My car also has the typical surging, probably not related, probably needs an O2 sensor. Oh, and my car has 180k. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tom B. '91 V8 5spd __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From dsaad at icehouse.net Mon Apr 19 10:59:28 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Mon Apr 19 10:59:28 2004 Subject: [V8] Sunroof relay/motor problems In-Reply-To: <06D1DC96.4F9919C8.028D39B4@aol.com> References: <06D1DC96.4F9919C8.028D39B4@aol.com> Message-ID: <1082386787.4083e96316cb9@webmail.icehouse.net> I have had this problem on my V8 as well as my old 100. They both use the same sun roof motor. There are two micro switches on the motor assy. They go bad over time. I don't think they are replaceable seperatly - you have to buy the whole motor but I took mine apart and cleaned them up. On both cars they have worked fine ever since. I can not remember if they were riveted or screwed in place. If there are rivets then you have to carefully drill them out and bolt them back on with something like a 2-56 machine screw/nut - and perhaps a tiny dab of locktite. The switches are quite fragile with lots of tiny springy stuff inside. Best to work on it in a place where you can find dropped parts. Also remember that there is (or at least should be) a hand crank key inside the motor cover. You can always use that to shut the roof if the motor fails. Just unlock the motor with the long lever and crank with the key. Dave Quoting QuickAudi@aol.com: > Ok guys, need some troubleshooting help. My sunroof just quit working > last summer. I could push the button all I wanted, but nothing helped. > I finally got home and swapped out the relays with one from a 5k, and it > started working again. However, sometimes it seems to forget where it > is. It will roll from moonroof to sunroof without stopping, or vice > versa. Today, the relay went out again. I actually just pulled it out > of the motor, turned the car on, turned it off, put the relay back on, > and turned the car back on. This got the system back long enough for me > to close the sunroof. > My questions: is the relay(s) bad, or is the motor bad, or both? Is > this what is causing it quit working, or should I start to investigate > other wiring areas? > Also, why would it not stop at the closed point? Is one of the switches > bad, maybe? > > Joel > '90 V8q > '86 5kcstq > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From armanmik at earthlink.net Mon Apr 19 14:21:09 2004 From: armanmik at earthlink.net (Mike Arman) Date: Mon Apr 19 14:21:10 2004 Subject: [V8] Stalling at startup Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20040419141041.0165fb10@mail.earthlink.net> Over the past few days I've noticed a new problem with my V8Q. After driving the car a few miles, park and re-start the engine, and it will stall once or even twice. Idle seems low. Today it did it three times, but I was going though a Taco Bell drive-through and it was evidently trying to tell me something. Clean the ISV or do I need one of the engine sensors? - and if so, which one and what does it cost (sitting down . . . )? Plugs good, O2 sensor seems OK (no surging, gas mileage no worse than usual). Other ideas? Bad gas (at $2.xx per gallon)? Best Regards, Mike Arman From eddie_dial at hotmail.com Mon Apr 19 14:29:53 2004 From: eddie_dial at hotmail.com (Eddie Dial) Date: Mon Apr 19 14:29:53 2004 Subject: [V8] Stalling at startup Message-ID: You can get the sensors for a good price at 4usedaudiparts.com. The toll free number is on the site ask for Tim. >From: Mike Arman >To: v8@audifans.com >Subject: [V8] Stalling at startup >Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:16:28 -0400 > > > >Over the past few days I've noticed a new problem with my V8Q. > >After driving the car a few miles, park and re-start the engine, and it >will stall once or even twice. Idle seems low. Today it did it three times, >but I was going though a Taco Bell drive-through and it was evidently >trying to tell me something. > >Clean the ISV or do I need one of the engine sensors? - and if so, which >one and what does it cost (sitting down . . . )? > >Plugs good, O2 sensor seems OK (no surging, gas mileage no worse than >usual). > >Other ideas? Bad gas (at $2.xx per gallon)? > > >Best Regards, > >Mike Arman >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ >From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring Travel Guide! http://special.msn.com/local/springtravel.armx From v8q at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 19 17:00:08 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Mon Apr 19 17:00:09 2004 Subject: [V8] Timing belt tools Message-ID: <40843E5A.2080405@bellsouth.net> FYI - I just spoke with Paul at Zelenda and ordered the 3197 and 2079. He was fine in honoring the group buy prices from way back... ======== From: Zelenda@aol.com To: rkorn@everestkc.net Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 2:01 PM Subject: Re: Fw: Timing Belt Tools for Audi Quattro V8 Hi Bob: We can offer the following prices : 3197 $100.00 3199 $105.00 2079 $102.00 3211 $56.75 3204 $12.50 was replaced by T10060 US4493 $ 20.00 is now 2587 Please let me know if you are interested in purchasing Betsr Regards Paul Kutil From getur at optonline.net Mon Apr 19 19:46:58 2004 From: getur at optonline.net (George Tur) Date: Mon Apr 19 19:46:59 2004 Subject: [V8] Timing belt tools In-Reply-To: <40843E5A.2080405@bellsouth.net> References: <40843E5A.2080405@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <200404191942.49908.getur@optonline.net> On Monday 19 April 2004 17:02, David Head wrote: > FYI - I just spoke with Paul at Zelenda and ordered the 3197 and 2079. > He was fine in honoring the group buy prices from way back... > ***************** So, now that you have all the equipment, are you going to host a TB-athlon at your place?...:-) George ... who might be visiting family in Tampa some time this summer From QuickAudi at aol.com Mon Apr 19 21:27:16 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 19 21:27:17 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: Slow Coolant Leak Message-ID: <62AB98D9.3236744F.028D39B4@aol.com> I had this problem on mine as well, if you are referring to the crossover pipe on the back of the engine. However, mine would leak onto the exhaust and create some great steam. Also, after the car got warm, the o-rings would shrink somehow and let more liquid out, whereas when the car was cold you couldn't find a leak if you tried. Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq In a message dated 4/19/2004 7:47:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, v8-request@audifans.com writes: > I haven't pulled it apart yet but I am guessing > on the two o-rings that go into the back of each head From cobram at juno.com Mon Apr 19 23:44:38 2004 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Mon Apr 19 23:44:39 2004 Subject: [V8] Slow Coolant Leak Message-ID: <20040420.004159.-89698825.0.Cobram@juno.com> You could either take the car to a tech who has a pressure tester (with the right adapter), or buy one and test the system yourself. Here is what it looks like: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/STA-12270.html Add pressure to the system and the area of the leak will become obvious. BCNU, http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ CoultL@aol.com writes: > I have a very slow coolant leak that I can?t locate. The level in And Matt Ammann mjammann@yahoo.com writes: >problem, but it shortly developed a leak. I >doubled checked the thermostat, and lower radiator >hose and don't find any leaks. From Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil Tue Apr 20 13:27:07 2004 From: Anthony.Hoffman at tinker.af.mil (Hoffman Anthony J A1C 552 CMS/MXMVC) Date: Tue Apr 20 13:27:21 2004 Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? Message-ID: <200404201728.i3KHSaYM017099@legolas.tinker.af.mil> Does anyone know the calculation factor used in figuring hp loss for each 1000ft elevation in a Naturally Aspirated engine? It seems I'v heard 3.7%, but I'm not sure this is accurate. Also, if anyone knows what it is for a Turbo, that would be helpful also. Thanks, Tony Hoffman From dan at magnitude-electronics.com Tue Apr 20 18:05:07 2004 From: dan at magnitude-electronics.com (Dan Hamren) Date: Tue Apr 20 18:05:08 2004 Subject: [V8] Hood latch Proceedure Message-ID: Well I finally got around to getting the hood opened the hard way. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. With the belly pan off I reached up with my had to the left side of the bomb. I could see the wire and just followed it to the metal loop and pushed it toward the center of the car. The passenger side was a touch more tricky, but once you know what to feel for its not that bad at all. I took off the two plastic nuts in the wheel well that are closest to the front of the car. I was able to push the well cover towards the wheel to get my arm up into the engine bay. I have long arms and was almost up to my shoulder before I found it. Again you push it towards the center of the car. Voila. It takes longer to get the belly pan back on than it does to hit the metal loops. HTH. Gunter in Cleveland sent me his write up, and it was right on! Thanks Guy! Just did this a month ago..............with belly pan off, reach up from underneath............can do one side at a time...........driver's side is the easier one to begin with..........can reach the latch with a fully outstretched arm by going up just lateral to the frame and the 'bomb'..........there's just enough space in there for your arm...........feel for the latch and press it towards the center of the car..........the driver's side latch will release independent of the passenger's side. You can do more or less the same on the passenger's side but will need an 'extension' to your arm...........I used a wooden paint stirring stick.........gently 'probe' around until you find the latch...........DO NOT apply force to the upper radiator vent plastic nipple that feeds the reservoir.........you could accidentally snap it off. That's it............there is no other way............all you need are long arms. Good luck. Gunter Cleveland Dan Hamren 90 v8 for sale 96 A6 avant for sale 2000 A6 2.7 manual in my future hopefully! From BBlake1055 at aol.com Tue Apr 20 19:47:12 2004 From: BBlake1055 at aol.com (BBlake1055@aol.com) Date: Tue Apr 20 19:47:13 2004 Subject: [V8] AC conversion Message-ID: <76136530.78A91291.09D66608@aol.com> I am trying to repair the AC in my 92V8 and was going to convert it to R-134. Has anyone done this that could help with a quick "How To"? My buddy says all I have to do is buy a $39.00 conversion kit change the valves and charge the system. Sounds to easy??? Any BTDT? Thanks Bob From DasWolfen at aol.com Tue Apr 20 20:13:44 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Tue Apr 20 20:13:45 2004 Subject: [V8] AC conversion Message-ID: <1c3.17ee78d9.2db716b4@aol.com> In a message dated 4/20/04 7:47:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, BBlake1055@aol.com writes: > I am trying to repair the AC in my 92V8 and was going to convert it to > R-134. Has anyone done this that could help with a quick "How To"? My buddy > says all I have to do is buy a $39.00 conversion kit change the valves and > charge the system. Sounds to easy??? Any BTDT? He's right....barely. Although that method works system performance isn't going to be as good as it could be with the R134. The correct way is to have the system vacuumed and recharged while the vacuum is still on the system, this ensures you get a complete charge, something you can rarely get with the quick and dirty home kits. From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Tue Apr 20 20:54:30 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Tue Apr 20 20:54:31 2004 Subject: [V8] Smog Check Blues Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C2099F@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> I thought I had everything all tweaked on #344 so I took it in for a smog check last Saturday ... I'll try not to get started on that whole topic ... but as you can tell from the subject of this message, the car did not pass. Strangely enough, it does pass with a small amount of margin at the idle test (which is why I thought I was good to go) ... but it failed at the 2500RPM test with excessive HC ... I think the number was 160PPM measured with a 140PPM max. The test tech surmised it might be something like spark plug wires, but was not likely to be a compression issue. I may go ahead and check compression anyway, but I was thinking about throwing on a new FPR, dizzy caps and rotors as well as the plug wires. I might just check the thermostat (I think it may be sticking open a bit) ... and I should make sure the coolant temp sensor is OK. I guess if that doesn't do the job I might need to look at the cats. I thought I would post to see if anyone here had any words of wisdom ... Other than the spark plug wires, none of the other parts are really that old (engine oil & spark plugs are brand new, and FPR, Dizzy caps, rotors and OXS were replaced a few months back). It has been quite disappointing because this is the same car that prompted the comment from the smog tech that it was one of the cleanest cars he had ever tested when I first brought it into the state ... the car is stock and does seem to be running well ... no codes from the ECU whatsoever ... Steve B San Jose, Kaleefohnia (USA) From john at bysinger.net Wed Apr 21 00:43:47 2004 From: john at bysinger.net (John Bysinger) Date: Wed Apr 21 00:43:49 2004 Subject: [V8] Power Steering high pressure line Message-ID: Well I narrowed down the culprit of my power steering fluid leak. It's at the end of the first section of flexible high pressure hose (normally right behind the head sheild.) So I've pulled the line, and taken it to a couple of hydraulics shops to see if I could get it repaired. Unfortunately the leak is right at the crimp end of the flexable tubing and both shops didn't want to mess with it. Does anyone out there with a parts car want to pull one and sell it to me? I haven't tried to price out what just this section will cost me as I don't need to replace the entire high pressure line. If someone knows the part number on this that would help calls to the parts shops as well. As always any other advice is more than welcome... Also here's a couple of pics of the line one showing where the leak is. http://doogie.bysinger.net/photos/Vehicles/90v8quattro/parts/PDRM0171.JPG http://doogie.bysinger.net/photos/Vehicles/90v8quattro/parts/PDRM0172.JPG (closeup of where it's leaking) It's been down for only a day and a half and I miss driving it already :( haha On another note, for those that have done performance upgrades... What type of suspension tuning have people done? I know there is a set of sport springs available, are there stiffer sway bars available? Thanks! -John 90v8q From Bob.Korn at Fike.com Wed Apr 21 08:55:17 2004 From: Bob.Korn at Fike.com (Korn, Bob) Date: Wed Apr 21 08:55:19 2004 Subject: [V8] Power Steering high pressure line Message-ID: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E7D49F7@BLSUSAEXCH1> Send it to these folks. They have rebuilt all my hydraulic lines. Usually same day turn around, they speak metric, and install swivel joints for easy re-installation. Very reasonable prices. May take a couple days, but well worth it. http://www.spokanehose.com/ Bob 90 V8 Pearl 04 F150 Supercrew -----Original Message----- From: John Bysinger [mailto:john@bysinger.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 11:43 PM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Power Steering high pressure line Well I narrowed down the culprit of my power steering fluid leak. It's at the end of the first section of flexible high pressure hose (normally right behind the head sheild.) So I've pulled the line, and taken it to a couple of hydraulics shops to see if I could get it repaired. Unfortunately the leak is right at the crimp end of the flexable tubing and both shops didn't want to mess with it. Does anyone out there with a parts car want to pull one and sell it to me? I haven't tried to price out what just this section will cost me as I don't need to replace the entire high pressure line. If someone knows the part number on this that would help calls to the parts shops as well. As always any other advice is more than welcome... Also here's a couple of pics of the line one showing where the leak is. http://doogie.bysinger.net/photos/Vehicles/90v8quattro/parts/PDRM0171.JPG http://doogie.bysinger.net/photos/Vehicles/90v8quattro/parts/PDRM0172.JPG (closeup of where it's leaking) It's been down for only a day and a half and I miss driving it already :( haha On another note, for those that have done performance upgrades... What type of suspension tuning have people done? I know there is a set of sport springs available, are there stiffer sway bars available? Thanks! -John 90v8q _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From RCAMPOZANO at mgmmirage.net Wed Apr 21 12:19:19 2004 From: RCAMPOZANO at mgmmirage.net (Campozano, Robert) Date: Wed Apr 21 12:19:19 2004 Subject: [V8] Here With John Devecka Message-ID: Hey List, Just wanted to say that John made the trip out to LV for a convention but didn't bring his tools (although he says they wouldn't help anyway). He did say, however, you might be available during your honeymoon Alan Kramer? ;-). All jokes aside, he is hanging out at work with me and has provided me with a nice little tool he put together. Thanks! I knew those Bellagio playing cards would work to my advantage. Well guys, and ladies, who's next??? My TB *Needs* to be done...anyone still looking for a couple free nights??? Let me know. Zay Campozano | Computer Engineer | MGM MIRAGE(tm) Tel: 702-891-7626 | rcampozano@MGMMirage.net From mrv8q at netscape.net Wed Apr 21 12:22:22 2004 From: mrv8q at netscape.net (mrv8q@netscape.net) Date: Wed Apr 21 12:22:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues Message-ID: <753C8D40.76770E2A.00014ED6@netscape.net> Hello, Steve, from experience I can tell you I had the exact problem on mine; (and nearly the same smog test numbers!) My mechanic Mike Rooney suggested a quick spark plug change; the results were worse! He put on rebuilt cats, and it passed all parameters very easily!...FWIW Kevin __________________________________________________________________ Introducing the New Netscape Internet Service. Only $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at http://isp.netscape.com/register Netscape. Just the Net You Need. New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer Search from anywhere on the Web and block those annoying pop-ups. Download now at http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp From CoultL at aol.com Wed Apr 21 12:36:57 2004 From: CoultL at aol.com (CoultL@aol.com) Date: Wed Apr 21 12:36:58 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues Message-ID: <2CF22561.2158ED6E.0004871B@aol.com> You might want to take the V8 out for a spin on the highway to make sure the cats are fully up to temp. I have heard of this helping. -Justin Lewis From armanmik at earthlink.net Wed Apr 21 12:57:22 2004 From: armanmik at earthlink.net (Mike Arman) Date: Wed Apr 21 12:57:23 2004 Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20040421122637.0166bf70@mail.earthlink.net> > > >Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? > >Does anyone know the calculation factor used in figuring hp loss for each >1000ft elevation in a Naturally Aspirated engine? It seems I'v heard 3.7%, >but I'm not sure this is accurate. Also, if anyone knows what it is for a >Turbo, that would be helpful also. Well I'm looking at a performance chart for a Cessna 150, which at full throttle (2,750 rpm) has a whole 100HP at sea level (not exactly nosebleed material . . . ) At 2,500 feet, it has 94 hp At 5,000 feet, it has 87 hp At 7,500 feet, it has 76 hp, but will only turn 2,700 rpm At 10,000 feet, it has 71 hp, same 2,700 rpm At 12,500 feet it has 63 hp, but will only turn 2,650 rpm. Therefore, the number appears to be about 3% per 1,000 feet on a NA engine. Turbo engines in *airplanes* are used to restore sea level performance at altitude - if you had a turbo 150, you could get 100 hp at 12,500 feet, instead of only 63. Generally, turbo pressures are limited to maintain or reproduce the 1.0 bar pressure at sea level, and are not used to boost beyond that. The altitude where the turbo can no longer maintain sea level pressure is known as the "critical altitude", and above that, the pressure diminishes simply because there is less air for the turbo to work with. With cars, we often run 1.5, 1.8 or 2 bars boost at sea level, so you'll probably lose the same 3% per 1,000 feet, but since you're starting with more, you won't notice the loss until you get WAY up into the mountains. By the way, the altitude record for a piston engine is held by a NASA Rotax powered drone with three stages of turbocharging - a little over 83,000 feet, 16 miles! There is just about no atmospheric pressure to speak of at that altitude. About one inch or so of mercury - practically nothing. Time of useful consciousness at this air pressure (or lack of pressure) is about five seconds, so the drivers of turbocharged SUVs will feel right at home . . . Best Regards, Mike Arman From jward at mti-interactive.com Wed Apr 21 13:05:29 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Wed Apr 21 13:05:30 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues Message-ID: I have heard it said before on this list that during the test, bring it up to RPMs slowly, and drop them slowly... Doing it to quickly causes it to belch environmental obscenities. Here in Portland, they have to do the sniffer test (as our DEQ doesn't have an AWD dyno) and they have the owner do the stepping on the gas. If you are close to passing, this might help. If only Steven had a second car he could swap parts off of... ;-) Regards, - Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of CoultL@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 9:37 AM To: V8@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues You might want to take the V8 out for a spin on the highway to make sure the cats are fully up to temp. I have heard of this helping. -Justin Lewis From ekellock at adelphia.net Wed Apr 21 13:30:45 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Wed Apr 21 13:30:45 2004 Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? Message-ID: <20040421173042.IQEE21898.mta11.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I have heard this about turbos in airplanes. It was referred to as "normalizing". If I could do even just that on my v8 here at 6000 feet, I'd love it. But then if one were to accomplish that, why be so frugal with the power increase? ;-) Of course it's a whole different story with an earth-bound vehicle... Ed Colorado Springs ============================================================ From: Mike Arman Date: 2004/04/21 Wed AM 10:52:34 MDT To: v8@audifans.com CC: Anthony.Hoffman@tinker.af.mil Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? > > >Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? > >Does anyone know the calculation factor used in figuring hp loss for each >1000ft elevation in a Naturally Aspirated engine? It seems I'v heard 3.7%, >but I'm not sure this is accurate. Also, if anyone knows what it is for a >Turbo, that would be helpful also. Well I'm looking at a performance chart for a Cessna 150, which at full throttle (2,750 rpm) has a whole 100HP at sea level (not exactly nosebleed material . . . ) At 2,500 feet, it has 94 hp At 5,000 feet, it has 87 hp At 7,500 feet, it has 76 hp, but will only turn 2,700 rpm At 10,000 feet, it has 71 hp, same 2,700 rpm At 12,500 feet it has 63 hp, but will only turn 2,650 rpm. Therefore, the number appears to be about 3% per 1,000 feet on a NA engine. Turbo engines in *airplanes* are used to restore sea level performance at altitude - if you had a turbo 150, you could get 100 hp at 12,500 feet, instead of only 63. Generally, turbo pressures are limited to maintain or reproduce the 1.0 bar pressure at sea level, and are not used to boost beyond that. The altitude where the turbo can no longer maintain sea level pressure is known as the "critical altitude", and above that, the pressure diminishes simply because there is less air for the turbo to work with. With cars, we often run 1.5, 1.8 or 2 bars boost at sea level, so you'll probably lose the same 3% per 1,000 feet, but since you're starting with more, you won't notice the loss until you get WAY up into the mountains. By the way, the altitude record for a piston engine is held by a NASA Rotax powered drone with three stages of turbocharging - a little over 83,000 feet, 16 miles! There is just about no atmospheric pressure to speak of at that altitude. About one inch or so of mercury - practically nothing. Time of useful consciousness at this air pressure (or lack of pressure) is about five seconds, so the drivers of turbocharged SUVs will feel right at home . . . Best Regards, Mike Arman ============================================================ -------------- next part -------------- _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From ackramer at hotmail.com Wed Apr 21 13:42:22 2004 From: ackramer at hotmail.com (Alan Kramer) Date: Wed Apr 21 13:42:22 2004 Subject: [V8] Here With John Devecka Message-ID: Hah! Don't tell John I've been secretly parting out his V8 while he's gone ;-) I can see it now... "Hey Melissa, check out this new suitcase I got for the honeymoon... It's metal, red, and everything goes in it's own little ball-bearing drawer." By the way, we're stopping off at Vegas on the way to San Fran! ----------------------------------- Alan Kramer http://www.geocities.com/audikramer '83 UrQ V8 '83 CGT 20vt '86 4kcsq '90 V8q ----------------------------------- _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ From RCAMPOZANO at mgmmirage.net Wed Apr 21 15:23:57 2004 From: RCAMPOZANO at mgmmirage.net (Campozano, Robert) Date: Wed Apr 21 15:23:58 2004 Subject: [V8] Here With John Devecka Message-ID: Sorry! Spilled the beans already...he's still laughing!!! Let me know when you are in town. I know you will be "busy" but I would be more then happy to buy you a beer, or beverage of your liking, when you and the new misses are in town. Take care, Zay Zay Campozano | Computer Engineer | MGM MIRAGE(tm) Tel: 702-891-7626 | rcampozano@MGMMirage.net -----Original Message----- From: Alan Kramer [mailto:ackramer@hotmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 10:42 AM To: Campozano, Robert Cc: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Here With John Devecka Hah! Don't tell John I've been secretly parting out his V8 while he's gone ;-) I can see it now... "Hey Melissa, check out this new suitcase I got for the honeymoon... It's metal, red, and everything goes in it's own little ball-bearing drawer." By the way, we're stopping off at Vegas on the way to San Fran! ----------------------------------- Alan Kramer http://www.geocities.com/audikramer '83 UrQ V8 '83 CGT 20vt '86 4kcsq '90 V8q From QuickAudi at aol.com Wed Apr 21 17:20:42 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Wed Apr 21 17:20:42 2004 Subject: [V8] starter going? Message-ID: <71DFCDA1.1AB310AE.028D39B4@aol.com> I think my starter is going, but I wanted to ask the list to make sure. When I turn the key to crank the engine, sometimes it will make a whirring noise and there is no engine action. When I let off of the key, it does a fake start for like a split second and then obviously dies. When I turn the car back off and then try to start it again, it starts with only the normal hesitation. I'm thinking the hesitation (which means it takes a few revolutions for the engine to catch instead of firing right up) means that the starter is getting old, but this fake start thing with the whirring, is that an electrical/wiring problem, or should I just get a new starter? Also, is a rebuild a bad idea? I have 143k on this starter. Also, is it the same starter as a 5k? Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Wed Apr 21 17:28:54 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Wed Apr 21 17:28:55 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20B1A@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... thanks to all of you who have offered suggestions on and off list! Funny, with me being as busy as I am I often forget to mention some of the other things I had intended to note in my initial message ... One thing I noticed was that while the test was going on the engine RPMs were varying noticeably, perhaps 100 RPM peak to peak. I don't know if the tech was messing with the throttle while he was running the test, trying to hold the idle steady ... or perhaps trying to increase the emissions ... he didn't try to get me to pay him to fix it, so I don't think he was deliberately trying to make it fail ... nonetheless I find that when I try to hold steady 2500 RPM I can do so just fine from the handle on the throttle body. Perhaps this was just enough variability to put the car over the maximum ... Since the car has permanent AWD it was not forced to sit on the dyno, so the dynamics of how quickly the engine was throttled ... or whether or not the car has a manual tranny don't apply. ... as to the comment about the second car ... even though this is the car with the "new" engine, I actually am a bit concerned as to whether or not it will pass. Where a whiff of the exhaust on #344 gives no obvious hydrocarbon smell, I can tell that #2 is running rich for some reason. I suppose I should figure it out because it is rich enough to noticeably affect fuel economy ... that said, I have been considering whether or not it makes sense to try swapping things like injectors ... but since the car is close to passing, I'm hoping that some less expensive approaches will do the trick ... not that a set of plug wires are that cheap! ... the comment about heating up the cats might be a good one, but I am a bit skeptical because the standard process is that if the emissions fail on the initial attempt the program runs the car at 2500 RPM for 3 minutes before retesting ... > > I have heard it said before on this list that during the > test, bring it > up to RPMs slowly, and drop them slowly... Doing it to quickly causes > it to belch environmental obscenities. > > Here in Portland, they have to do the sniffer test (as our DEQ doesn't > have an AWD dyno) and they have the owner do the stepping on the gas. > If you are close to passing, this might help. > > If only Steven had a second car he could swap parts off of... ;-) > > > You might want to take the V8 out for a spin on the highway > to make sure > the cats are fully up to temp. I have heard of this helping. From wilke_jb at yahoo.com Thu Apr 22 08:19:40 2004 From: wilke_jb at yahoo.com (Jason Wilkerson) Date: Thu Apr 22 08:19:42 2004 Subject: [V8] starter going? In-Reply-To: <71DFCDA1.1AB310AE.028D39B4@aol.com> Message-ID: <20040422121938.10970.qmail@web41002.mail.yahoo.com> Ok, No it isn't the starter off of a 5k - I had this same problem - or so it seems. Mine would spin for ever and ever then finally it would catch - you could hear the starter turn but not the motor - I finally determined that the Bendix was bad and went to searching for one - to no avail. I even tried one off of a 1.8 vw motor, which looked Identical, but isn't because on that car the starter is on the transmission side of the motor and on the v8 it is on the motor side and that means that it rotates opposite, and therefore is a mirror image of the v8 bendix - it will not work, period. I couldn't find one anywhere, and I didn't want to buy a new starter because other than the bendix everything else looked so good, so I took the bendix off (pain) cut the band around it off, removed the clutch dogs and ground the inner part of the pinion down a little, replaced the clutch dogs with new 1/4in. drill rod (hardened), held the band on with a hose clamp, then welded it back (very lightly as to not melt the plastic inside). Saved $180 - and it went from not starting at all to never skipping a beat in 10K mi! Good Luck, Jason __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Apr 22 09:14:49 2004 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Apr 22 09:14:50 2004 Subject: [V8] starter going? In-Reply-To: <20040422121938.10970.qmail@web41002.mail.yahoo.com> References: <71DFCDA1.1AB310AE.028D39B4@aol.com> Message-ID: <4.1.20040422091344.00b3c278@traverse.com> I've had starters rebuilt by a Bosch repair shop for way less that purchasing a new one. Did you try to get a new bendix through a source like that? At 05:19 AM 4/22/2004 -0700, Jason Wilkerson wrote: >Ok, > No it isn't the starter off of a 5k - I had this same problem - or so it >seems. Mine would spin for ever and ever then finally it would catch - >you could hear the starter turn but not the motor - I finally determined >that the Bendix was bad and went to searching for one - to no avail. I >even tried one off of a 1.8 vw motor, which looked Identical, but isn't >because on that car the starter is on the transmission side of the motor >and on the v8 it is on the motor side and that means that it rotates >opposite, and therefore is a mirror image of the v8 bendix - it will not >work, period. I couldn't find one anywhere, and I didn't want to buy a >new starter because other than the bendix everything else looked so good, >so I took the bendix off (pain) cut the band around it off, removed the >clutch dogs and ground the inner part of the pinion down a little, >replaced the clutch dogs with new 1/4in. drill rod (hardened), held the >band on with a hose clamp, then welded it back (very lightly as to not >melt the plastic inside). Saved $180 - and it went from not starting at >all to never skipping a beat in 10K mi! From cwurts12 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 22 09:23:23 2004 From: cwurts12 at mindspring.com (Charles Wurts) Date: Thu Apr 22 09:23:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues In-Reply-To: <753C8D40.76770E2A.00014ED6@netscape.net> References: <753C8D40.76770E2A.00014ED6@netscape.net> Message-ID: <3ACADAB4-9460-11D8-8BA6-000A95CD7CD8@mindspring.com> I can report the same experience. With replacement cats, not exactly new;-), my car was almost immaculate. I can also add that a year later, the emission scores are half way back to failing. This I am almost certain is a result of a broken distributor; I drove the car for about 12 miles on four cylinders (another long story). Now at least one of the cats is rattling, like the last set, and the emissions are increasing. I suspect that any time these machines are running rich that they will consume their cats pretty quickly. In Steve's case, it is worth noting that his car passed at idle which is where the V8 generally is challenged, so it might be something else. I would guess that his tune up approach might reap rewards without the expense of cats. BTW, has anyone out there tried the cheap generic replacement cats which are a lot smaller than OEM? I'd be interested to know how they hold up. On Apr 21, 2004, at 12:22 PM, mrv8q@netscape.net wrote: > Hello, Steve, from experience I can tell you I had the exact problem > on mine; (and nearly the same smog test numbers!) My mechanic Mike > Rooney suggested a quick spark plug change; the results were worse! He > put on rebuilt cats, and it passed all parameters very easily!...FWIW > Kevin > From armanmik at earthlink.net Thu Apr 22 09:51:21 2004 From: armanmik at earthlink.net (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Apr 22 09:51:23 2004 Subject: [V8] HP loss at altitude? Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20040422093716.01675490@mail.earthlink.net> >From: Ed Kellock >Subject: Re: [V8] HP loss at altitude? >To: >Cc: Anthony.Hoffman@tinker.af.mil > >I have heard this about turbos in airplanes. It was referred to as >"normalizing". >If I could do even just that on my v8 here at 6000 feet, I'd love it. But >then if one were to accomplish that, why be so frugal with the power >increase? ;-) Problem is as boost goes up, so does the effective compression ratio - even though the *physical* compression ratio remains the same. Choice of aviation fuel is basically 100LL, 100LL, or 100LL, and if we went to 1.5 bar, we'd have detonation out the kazoo. Remember you can hear this in your car, but not in an airplane (engine noise, wind noise, radio chatter, screaming passengers, etc.), and you do NOT want to break an airplane engine at high boost during a maximum performance climb to clear hostile terrain. In the old days, aviation high test was 145 (purple) and was used in WW2 fighters. This fuel is long gone, consequently anyone lucky and rich enough to own a Mustang or Spitfire flies around at part throttle openings - full throttle on these engines plus the available 60" of boost (!) on 100LL equals instant expensive shrapnel plus a forced landing. Ugh. Remember also that aircraft fuel systems are considerably lower tech than automotive fuel systems. Exclusive of the avionics, there are more semiconductors in the interior light delay relay of a V8Q than in your choice of any dozen general aviation aircraft. No knock sensors, no automatic ignition retard, no engine position sensors, nothing, just two glorified tractor magnetos, spinning permanent magnets and all. Best Regards, Mike Arman From eddie_dial at hotmail.com Thu Apr 22 12:15:51 2004 From: eddie_dial at hotmail.com (Eddie Dial) Date: Thu Apr 22 12:15:52 2004 Subject: [V8] starter going? Message-ID: Sounds like the teeth on the starter may have broke. Sometimes this is due to the fuel pressure regulator going out which can ruin a starter or worse the flywheel. >From: QuickAudi@aol.com >To: v8@audifans.com >Subject: [V8] starter going? >Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 17:20:35 -0400 > >I think my starter is going, but I wanted to ask the list to make sure. >When I turn the key to crank the engine, sometimes it will make a whirring >noise and there is no engine action. When I let off of the key, it does a >fake start for like a split second and then obviously dies. When I turn >the car back off and then try to start it again, it starts with only the >normal hesitation. I'm thinking the hesitation (which means it takes a few >revolutions for the engine to catch instead of firing right up) means that >the starter is getting old, but this fake start thing with the whirring, is >that an electrical/wiring problem, or should I just get a new starter? >Also, is a rebuild a bad idea? I have 143k on this starter. Also, is it >the same starter as a 5k? > > >Joel >'90 V8q >'86 5kcstq >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Thu Apr 22 12:40:04 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Apr 22 12:40:06 2004 Subject: [V8] starter going? Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20CC4@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... when I had the engine off on #2 I noticed that the Bendix gear had 1/2 to 3/4 inch of play in the solenoid. It was apparent that this allowed the gear to rub against the flywheel as there was maybe 1/16 inch worn off the ends of the teeth. I didn't have time to procure a starter at that time because I was in a hurry to get the car back on the road ... but it wasn't too long before I had to go back in and do the swap because it would do the same thing you describe ... when the ignition switch was turned to the start position you could hear the starter motor spin but the Bendix gear was not engaging the flywheel. I opted for a rebuilt starter (which I got right away from a local FLAPS) because I do need a starter for that engine which is waiting to be installed in the Avant. I see no reason to expect that a starter can't be successfully rebuilt and serve reliably for years thereafter ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > I think my starter is going, but I wanted to ask the list to > make sure. When I turn the key to crank the engine, > sometimes it will make a whirring noise and there is no > engine action. When I let off of the key, it does a fake > start for like a split second and then obviously dies. When > I turn the car back off and then try to start it again, it > starts with only the normal hesitation. I'm thinking the > hesitation (which means it takes a few revolutions for the > engine to catch instead of firing right up) means that the > starter is getting old, but this fake start thing with the > whirring, is that an electrical/wiring problem, or should I > just get a new starter? Also, is a rebuild a bad idea? I > have 143k on this starter. Also, is it the same starter as a 5k? From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 11:48:52 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Fri Apr 23 11:48:53 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <20040423154849.52901.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Listers, A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to open any more cans of worms than is allready open. Thanks Ron 87 5ksq many mods 90 200tqa many mods 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From v8q at bellsouth.net Fri Apr 23 12:01:49 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Fri Apr 23 12:02:10 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 References: <20040423154849.52901.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <40893E6E.9010508@bellsouth.net> Need a fender to fender engine support to hold the engine up - Harbor Freight sells a nice one if you don't have access to a cherry picker. Ron Wainwright wrote: > Listers, > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his >motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before >I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to >the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way >(as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to >open any more cans of worms than is allready open. >Thanks >Ron >87 5ksq many mods >90 200tqa many mods >90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" > > > > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25? >http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 12:09:59 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Fri Apr 23 12:10:16 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 In-Reply-To: <40893E6E.9010508@bellsouth.net> Message-ID: <20040423160956.58744.qmail@web60810.mail.yahoo.com> Dave, Thanks that shouldn't be a problem to make up something, but what has to be done to get to the top nut on the mount off? Any additional words of wisdome. Thanks Ron --- David Head wrote: > Need a fender to fender engine support to hold the > engine up - Harbor > Freight sells a nice one if you don't have access to > a cherry picker. > > Ron Wainwright wrote: > > > Listers, > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > >motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this > before > >I was wondering if any lister can help with any > BTDT? > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get > to > >the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best > way > >(as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > >open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > >Thanks > >Ron > >87 5ksq many mods > >90 200tqa many mods > >90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" > > > > > > > > > >__________________________________ > >Do you Yahoo!? > >Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for > 25¢ > >http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash > >_______________________________________________ > >Audifans V8 mailing list > >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > >Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans > Knowledgebase! > >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding > to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > > > > > > > > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From smccoy at nd.edu Fri Apr 23 12:11:47 2004 From: smccoy at nd.edu (smccoy@nd.edu) Date: Fri Apr 23 12:11:48 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity Message-ID: <1082736703.4089403fc83f1@webmail.nd.edu> Greetings! The following is a request for help and at the same time a tribute to the incredible engineering and strength of the Audi V8 as well as my own stupidity. Last night, while trying to prepare for an early morning departure, I check the fluid levels of the Audi V8 my daughter uses as a daily driver and backed it out of the garage. Not wanting to have a problem with flooding (BTDT on two occassions) I left the car running for a few minutes. To make a long story short - I forgot about the car and went to bed. While this might not have been a problem under normal circumstances, the electric cooling fan on this car doesn't always kick on and of course, this time it didn't. Several hours later, my daughter (returning home from a date) awoke me to tell me that something was the matter with her Audi - of course, it had overheated and a large pool of antifreeze was under the car. Water temp gauge wasn't working (intermentant grounding problem) but the oil temp showed almost 130 C. I immediately drove the car down the road, allowing it to gradually cool - and when the oil temp had dropped to about 90 - I pulled it into the garage and shut it down. It had boiled out about 3 qts of antifreeze but other than that, no apparent damage. The next day we drove the car down the road and it started to overheat, so we pulled over, let it cool down and drove back home. Since then, the v8's cooling system hasn't work (possible vapor lock?) although the car runs as strong as ever. The car starts and runs well - remove the cap from the radiator reservoir and it appears to be normal. However, drive it down the road for 10 minutes and it will overheat. One final note - the car just turn over 210 k miles. Question - Have I damaged the head gaskets - in which case, I guess the car is done for - it's a shame, it been an exceptional car. Any suggestions (on the car) would be appreciated. Thanks Scott McCoy 2 '90 V8s assorted variety of Porsches '75 Bricklin SV-1 From dsaad at icehouse.net Fri Apr 23 12:48:40 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Fri Apr 23 12:48:42 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 In-Reply-To: <20040423154849.52901.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20040423154849.52901.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1082738944.4089490031a6b@webmail.icehouse.net> When I priced the header gaskets (metal o-rings), they were $18 each - and you need 8 of them so I did not pull the headers. (did not want to take the chance of needing to buy them) I was able to do the job but it was definately a PITA. If you have access to a welder, I think you could make a nice tool cheap out of a box end wrench - basically make a crows foot type tool out of the box side - not the open side. Dave Quoting Ron Wainwright : > Listers, > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > Thanks > Ron > 87 5ksq many mods > 90 200tqa many mods > 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ > http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 23 13:51:10 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 23 13:51:11 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20F5B@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... the fan on the serpentine belt should have pulled enough air through the rad to keep the engine cool, even at idle. I suspect that you might have a thermostat problem ... does the radiator feel abnormally cool when the engine is running? I believe there was someone else on the list who did a similar thing ... if they are on the list they might well respond ... but I think they thought the engine weathered the event well, but in the end they found that damage had been done ... my recollection may well be incorrect, you may want to poke around the recent archives ... In any event, best of luck! Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > Several hours later, my daughter (returning home from a date) > awoke me to tell > me that something was the matter with her Audi - of course, > it had overheated > and a large pool of antifreeze was under the car. Water temp > gauge wasn't > working (intermentant grounding problem) but the oil temp > showed almost 130 C. > I immediately drove the car down the road, allowing it to > gradually cool - and > when the oil temp had dropped to about 90 - I pulled it into > the garage and > shut it down. It had boiled out about 3 qts of antifreeze > but other than that, > no apparent damage. > > The next day we drove the car down the road and it started to > overheat, so we > pulled over, let it cool down and drove back home. Since > then, the v8's > cooling system hasn't work (possible vapor lock?) although > the car runs as > strong as ever. The car starts and runs well - remove the > cap from the > radiator reservoir and it appears to be normal. However, > drive it down the > road for 10 minutes and it will overheat. One final note - > the car just turn > over 210 k miles. From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 23 13:56:01 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 23 13:56:02 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20F64@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... funny how short the memory can be sometimes ... frankly, I don't remember this being a big deal when I did this during the engine swap. Once you pull out the heat shields there's a good bit of room to work in there ... I don't remember having a difficult time finding tools to get to the nuts ... there's certainly no need to pull the headers! Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > When I priced the header gaskets (metal o-rings), they were > $18 each - and you > need 8 of them so I did not pull the headers. (did not want > to take the chance > of needing to buy them) > > I was able to do the job but it was definately a PITA. If you > have access to a > welder, I think you could make a nice tool cheap out of a box > end wrench - > basically make a crows foot type tool out of the box side - > not the open side. > > Dave > > > Quoting Ron Wainwright : > > > Listers, > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. From CoultL at aol.com Fri Apr 23 14:08:47 2004 From: CoultL at aol.com (CoultL@aol.com) Date: Fri Apr 23 14:08:49 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <1e4.1e5098ec.2dbab5ac@aol.com> I did it with some extensions and one of those socket universal joints. One side was not that bad but the other was a serious pain. You, of course, have to remove the header heat shields. You will have to lower the subframe to remove the bolts the hold the mount in place. I supported my engine by the oil pan with some wood and a jack. There a probably some listers cringing right now but it didnt hurt anything. -Justin Lewis From Bob.Korn at Fike.com Fri Apr 23 14:11:51 2004 From: Bob.Korn at Fike.com (Korn, Bob) Date: Fri Apr 23 14:11:52 2004 Subject: [V8] Steel Braided Brake Lines Source Message-ID: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C83C6@BLSUSAEXCH1> Anyone know a good source for the steel braided lines for the calipers. Am going to do a total flush of the brake system and would be a good time to replace the original lines. Thanks, Bob 90 V8Q Pearl 136K -----Original Message----- From: Buchholz, Steven [mailto:Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com] Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 12:56 PM To: 'v8@audifans.com' Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 ... funny how short the memory can be sometimes ... frankly, I don't remember this being a big deal when I did this during the engine swap. Once you pull out the heat shields there's a good bit of room to work in there ... I don't remember having a difficult time finding tools to get to the nuts ... there's certainly no need to pull the headers! Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > When I priced the header gaskets (metal o-rings), they were > $18 each - and you > need 8 of them so I did not pull the headers. (did not want > to take the chance > of needing to buy them) > > I was able to do the job but it was definately a PITA. If you > have access to a > welder, I think you could make a nice tool cheap out of a box > end wrench - > basically make a crows foot type tool out of the box side - > not the open side. > > Dave > > > Quoting Ron Wainwright : > > > Listers, > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From skramer at mac.com Fri Apr 23 14:47:49 2004 From: skramer at mac.com (Steve Kramer) Date: Fri Apr 23 14:47:50 2004 Subject: [V8] Steel Braided Brake Lines Source References: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C83C6@BLSUSAEXCH1> Message-ID: <000501c42963$7429e3e0$6701a8c0@Macpaq> blaufergnugen has the set of 4 Steve Kramer 1990 V8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Korn, Bob" To: Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 1:11 PM Subject: [V8] Steel Braided Brake Lines Source Anyone know a good source for the steel braided lines for the calipers. Am going to do a total flush of the brake system and would be a good time to replace the original lines. Thanks, Bob 90 V8Q Pearl 136K -----Original Message----- From: Buchholz, Steven [mailto:Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com] Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 12:56 PM To: 'v8@audifans.com' Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 ... funny how short the memory can be sometimes ... frankly, I don't remember this being a big deal when I did this during the engine swap. Once you pull out the heat shields there's a good bit of room to work in there ... I don't remember having a difficult time finding tools to get to the nuts ... there's certainly no need to pull the headers! Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > When I priced the header gaskets (metal o-rings), they were > $18 each - and you > need 8 of them so I did not pull the headers. (did not want > to take the chance > of needing to buy them) > > I was able to do the job but it was definately a PITA. If you > have access to a > welder, I think you could make a nice tool cheap out of a box > end wrench - > basically make a crows foot type tool out of the box side - > not the open side. > > Dave > > > Quoting Ron Wainwright : > > > Listers, > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From 2-foxes at comcast.net Fri Apr 23 15:44:55 2004 From: 2-foxes at comcast.net (Joe Fox) Date: Fri Apr 23 15:44:56 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and In-Reply-To: <20040423164905.E3DFADBB3E@audifans.com> Message-ID: Radiator may be plugged with residue deposited as fluid evaporated, especially if using the wrong type of antifreeze. Based on my experience, forget about trying to clean it, install a new radiator! Joe Fox From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 23 16:08:22 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 23 16:08:22 2004 Subject: [V8] Steel Braided Brake Lines Source Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20FB1@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... a while back when I did this on the urq I got a set of custom lines from GPR (www.gprparts.com) ... the price was very good and they were the correct lengths ... which impressed me since it wasn't a standard configuration ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > Anyone know a good source for the steel braided lines for the > calipers. Am > going to do a total flush of the brake system and would be a > good time to > replace the original lines. From thequattroking at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 16:12:43 2004 From: thequattroking at yahoo.com (quattro + 5 or 8 = fun) Date: Fri Apr 23 16:12:44 2004 Subject: [V8] Steel Braided Brake Lines Source In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20FB1@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: I am VERY impressed with GPR. They made a set for my V8q with Willwood brakes and knew exactly what to make. They also made a set for my 33 year old MBZ and got it right. Amazing. Shayne Bay Area, CA Eastern WA State PARTING: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 PARTING: 1986 Audi 4000 CS quattro > ... a while back when I did this on the urq I got a set of custom lines from > GPR (www.gprparts.com) ... the price was very good and they were the correct > lengths ... which impressed me since it wasn't a standard configuration ... > > Steve B > San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > >> >> Anyone know a good source for the steel braided lines for the >> calipers. Am >> going to do a total flush of the brake system and would be a >> good time to >> replace the original lines. From dsaad at icehouse.net Fri Apr 23 16:30:24 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Fri Apr 23 16:30:24 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20F64@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> References: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20F64@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: <1082752246.40897cf6ca6e6@webmail.icehouse.net> This one of those cases where if you fight it long enough you will win - but it is likely to be faster to make a tool that works and then just do it the easy way. Dave Quoting "Buchholz, Steven" : > ... funny how short the memory can be sometimes ... frankly, I don't > remember this being a big deal when I did this during the engine swap. > Once > you pull out the heat shields there's a good bit of room to work in > there > ... I don't remember having a difficult time finding tools to get to the > nuts ... there's certainly no need to pull the headers! > > Steve B > San José, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > > > When I priced the header gaskets (metal o-rings), they were > > $18 each - and you > > need 8 of them so I did not pull the headers. (did not want > > to take the chance > > of needing to buy them) > > > > I was able to do the job but it was definately a PITA. If you > > have access to a > > welder, I think you could make a nice tool cheap out of a box > > end wrench - > > basically make a crows foot type tool out of the box side - > > not the open side. > > > > Dave > > > > > > Quoting Ron Wainwright : > > > > > Listers, > > > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From dsaad at icehouse.net Fri Apr 23 16:31:59 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Fri Apr 23 16:31:59 2004 Subject: [V8] Steel Braided Brake Lines Source In-Reply-To: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C83C6@BLSUSAEXCH1> References: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C83C6@BLSUSAEXCH1> Message-ID: <1082752344.40897d58cde91@webmail.icehouse.net> I got mine from www.importpartsspec.com for pretty cheap. They were a little longer than stock but work just fine. Dave Quoting "Korn, Bob" : > Anyone know a good source for the steel braided lines for the calipers. > Am > going to do a total flush of the brake system and would be a good time > to > replace the original lines. > Thanks, > > Bob > 90 V8Q Pearl 136K > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Buchholz, Steven [mailto:Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com] > Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 12:56 PM > To: 'v8@audifans.com' > Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > ... funny how short the memory can be sometimes ... frankly, I don't > remember this being a big deal when I did this during the engine swap. > Once > you pull out the heat shields there's a good bit of room to work in > there > ... I don't remember having a difficult time finding tools to get to the > nuts ... there's certainly no need to pull the headers! > > Steve B > San José, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > > > When I priced the header gaskets (metal o-rings), they were > > $18 each - and you > > need 8 of them so I did not pull the headers. (did not want > > to take the chance > > of needing to buy them) > > > > I was able to do the job but it was definately a PITA. If you > > have access to a > > welder, I think you could make a nice tool cheap out of a box > > end wrench - > > basically make a crows foot type tool out of the box side - > > not the open side. > > > > Dave > > > > > > Quoting Ron Wainwright : > > > > > Listers, > > > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From scott_matus at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 17:16:41 2004 From: scott_matus at yahoo.com (S_Matus) Date: Fri Apr 23 17:16:42 2004 Subject: [V8] Harbour Freight. Message-ID: <20040423211637.64050.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> Harbor Freight is a fantastic place. I purchase a lot of tools there that are made in China and Taiwan. If you compare the quality of the HF tools to that of Craftsman, SK, Mack and other, you see very little difference at all. ( you must examine the quality of everything you buy ) The price is usually 20 to 40 cents on the dollar of these higher priced marketers. I'lm on contact here in Thousand Oaks, Kaleforneea (as Steve calls it). Camarillo is just over the hill, Harbor Freight's Corp HQ. I go there to check out their clearance bin once a week. I can usually pick up Jobber tool samples for next to nothing. That is where I got my TB Spocket holder for 5 bucks. Scott Matus 2 - '90 V8s ------- Original Message ------- Message: 6 Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 12:03:58 -0400 From: David Head Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 To: Ron Wainwright Cc: v8@audifans.com, quattro@audifans.com Message-ID: <40893E6E.9010508@bellsouth.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Need a fender to fender engine support to hold the engine up - Harbor Freight sells a nice one if you don't have access to a cherry picker. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 17:45:15 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Fri Apr 23 17:45:16 2004 Subject: [V8] steel braided brake line source Message-ID: <20040423214513.48126.qmail@web60808.mail.yahoo.com> Bob, I would be careful all braided lines aren't the same it's nice to save some $ but getting the write ones are essential. Find a set that are covered in plastic to keep the dirt out, or like you mentioned find the cheapest set you can find & shrink wrap them top to bottom. If dirt gets in there they will be more prone to burst than convential rubber lines. Hope this helps. Thanks Ron 87 5ksq many mods 90 200tqa many mods 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From dsaad at icehouse.net Fri Apr 23 17:52:40 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Fri Apr 23 17:52:40 2004 Subject: [V8] Harbour Freight. NAC In-Reply-To: <20040423211637.64050.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20040423211637.64050.qmail@web14104.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1082757185.4089904127e2a@webmail.icehouse.net> This is NOT aimed at you Scott!! You just hit one of my hot buttons. I aint no expert - but I usually can tell that the made in china junk is just that. Perhaps it is all you need, but the quality is nowhere near that of real tools. make no mistake. And the price? It is amazing what you can sell a product for when you pay your slaves - err I mean workers next to nothing, give them absolutly no benefits, have no pollution controls, and have no cheaper foreign competition. I just read about a long time tool maker in the south that was finally forced to shut down recently. Not because they could not make a decent product at a fair price but because they can not compete with government sponsered slave labor. I am getting tired of hearing that story. It just seems to me that Harbor Freight is going down the same path as wallmart. I am looking at having my own job sent to India within 10 years and that does not make me happy. The list is getting longer for products and services that are no longer available "Made in USA". When that list includes your job what will you be re- trained for? We can't all be insurance salesmen. Somebody has to actually produce something or the economy will eventually fail. Quoting S_Matus : > Harbor Freight is a fantastic place. I purchase a lot of tools there > that are made in China and Taiwan. If you compare the quality of the HF > tools to that of Craftsman, SK, Mack and other, you see very little > difference at all. ( you must examine the quality of everything you buy > ) The price is usually 20 to 40 cents on the dollar of these higher > priced marketers. > > I'lm on contact here in Thousand Oaks, Kaleforneea (as Steve calls it). > Camarillo is just over the hill, Harbor Freight's Corp HQ. I go there > to check out their clearance bin once a week. I can usually pick up > Jobber tool samples for next to nothing. That is where I got my TB > Spocket holder for 5 bucks. > > Scott Matus > 2 - '90 V8s > > ------- Original Message ------- > > Message: 6 > Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 12:03:58 -0400 > From: David Head > Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > To: Ron Wainwright > Cc: v8@audifans.com, quattro@audifans.com > Message-ID: <40893E6E.9010508@bellsouth.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Need a fender to fender engine support to hold the engine up - Harbor > Freight sells a nice one if you don't have access to a cherry picker. > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From DasWolfen at aol.com Fri Apr 23 21:24:33 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Fri Apr 23 21:24:34 2004 Subject: [V8] Harbour Freight. NAC Message-ID: In a message dated 4/23/04 5:52:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dsaad@icehouse.net writes: > The list is getting longer for products and services that are no longer > available "Made in USA". When that list includes your job what will you be > re- > trained for? > We can't all be insurance salesmen. > Somebody has to actually produce something or the economy will eventually > fail He says while driving a driving a german car...and demanding oem parts....and ......... see the irony? From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 23 21:48:54 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 23 21:48:56 2004 Subject: [V8] Harbour Freight. NAC Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C21021@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... frankly, not fully from this end! Are you saying that the "playing field" between the US and Europe is different? Don't they have comparable labor and environmental laws to the ones manufacturer's in the US have to deal with? In fact, we may have the more lax laws ... in a meeting today I heard that at a tool we're installing in Germany (the thing costs around $20,000,000 so we're doing our part to help the balance of trade! ;-) one of the install engineers is unable to go in to the site because the labor laws there force time off after so many contiguous days on the job! The other amusing nuance here is that nowadays you hear talk about people buying new Chrysler Hemis ... which are largely made by Mercedes (I can't vouch for the validity of such statements, just pointing it out as a sign of how grey the boundaries are). We all know how diversified the automobile manufacturing world is ... Japanese manufacturers build vehicles in the US and ship them back to Japan! I don't think it's a US vs. Europe or US vs. Japan question ... the other example Dave mentioned was a US company! It all comes down to an overall "fairness" factor ... in quotes because it isn't really properly descriptive. In the Wal-Mart case it is a situation where the corporation could give a whit about its employees ... it pushes the limits on labor laws and forces concessions from the same governments that will be forced to pay health costs for the folks who are employed by the company but do not even earn a "living wage" ... we can vote with our pocketbooks ... and Wal-Mart's purse is growing every day ... but it gets precious little from me. It's a bunch more difficult to stay away from products made in China, almost everyone seems to need to go there in order to compete at all. I'm kinda considering not hitting the send button on this ... but as Dave said, you've struck a nerve ... we too are farming out a good bit of our IP development to India. At least in my case I know that the tools we build physically leave the docks here in California ... oops ... Kaleefohnia ... funny, now that he's the Gov, even Ahhnold's accent is improved ... Steve B San Jose, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > He says while driving a driving a german car...and demanding > oem parts....and > ......... > > see the irony? From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 23 22:57:15 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Fri Apr 23 22:57:15 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 motor mounts? In-Reply-To: <002001c42983$3da8e530$0300a8c0@D5ZF1G41> Message-ID: <20040424025714.83046.qmail@web60806.mail.yahoo.com> In my friends case the front mount was broke (near alternator) on top, so after replacing it there was a vibration under our feet in the car & after BTDT with Audi's for a while now I surmised that the mounts were toast cause of the engine leaning back slightly for at least a year. & sure enough after getting under the car to take a look the mounts had collapsed. But I would think that a good rule of thumb is that 100k is a good time to really take a look at the car & do some preventive maintenance. I also told him he might want to do the tranny mounts as well, but well see. Hope this helps. Thanks Ron 87 5ksq many mods 90 200tqa many mods 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" --- Lou Fols wrote: > What is system of bad mounts? I get a thump > sometimes but I though it was subframe mounts. > Thanks > Lou > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From john at bysinger.net Fri Apr 23 23:14:10 2004 From: john at bysinger.net (John Bysinger) Date: Fri Apr 23 23:14:11 2004 Subject: [V8] Harbour Freight. NAC In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C21021@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: I dunno about harbor freights purchasing/labor practices, but I personally have given up on them as a source for purchases of any kind. I have attempted to buy from them twice, both experiences were amazingly less than satisfactory. I encountered everything from rude customer service reps, to deleted orders, to improperly charged CC's. And in the end I never received either order, and am currently in the process fo trying to get the second one cancelled and my money back. (8 months of back-order lies and other issues is enough for me.) Sure their prices may be lower, good luck actually getting what you buy. -John 1990 v8q -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Buchholz, Steven Sent: Friday, April 23, 2004 6:49 PM To: 'v8@audifans.com' Subject: RE: [V8] Harbour Freight. NAC ... frankly, not fully from this end! Are you saying that the "playing field" between the US and Europe is different? Don't they have comparable labor and environmental laws to the ones manufacturer's in the US have to deal with? In fact, we may have the more lax laws ... in a meeting today I heard that at a tool we're installing in Germany (the thing costs around $20,000,000 so we're doing our part to help the balance of trade! ;-) one of the install engineers is unable to go in to the site because the labor laws there force time off after so many contiguous days on the job! The other amusing nuance here is that nowadays you hear talk about people buying new Chrysler Hemis ... which are largely made by Mercedes (I can't vouch for the validity of such statements, just pointing it out as a sign of how grey the boundaries are). We all know how diversified the automobile manufacturing world is ... Japanese manufacturers build vehicles in the US and ship them back to Japan! I don't think it's a US vs. Europe or US vs. Japan question ... the other example Dave mentioned was a US company! It all comes down to an overall "fairness" factor ... in quotes because it isn't really properly descriptive. In the Wal-Mart case it is a situation where the corporation could give a whit about its employees ... it pushes the limits on labor laws and forces concessions from the same governments that will be forced to pay health costs for the folks who are employed by the company but do not even earn a "living wage" ... we can vote with our pocketbooks ... and Wal-Mart's purse is growing every day ... but it gets precious little from me. It's a bunch more difficult to stay away from products made in China, almost everyone seems to need to go there in order to compete at all. I'm kinda considering not hitting the send button on this ... but as Dave said, you've struck a nerve ... we too are farming out a good bit of our IP development to India. At least in my case I know that the tools we build physically leave the docks here in California ... oops ... Kaleefohnia ... funny, now that he's the Gov, even Ahhnold's accent is improved ... Steve B San Jose, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > He says while driving a driving a german car...and demanding > oem parts....and > ......... > > see the irony? _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From david at styletrack401k.com Fri Apr 23 23:17:34 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Fri Apr 23 23:17:35 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues Message-ID: >>You might want to take the V8 out for a spin on the highway to make sure the cats are fully up to temp. I have heard of this helping. -Justin Lewis First time I took the V8 in for emissions it failed - even though I sat outside with my foot on the gas for 10 minutes revving at about 2500-3000 rpm. Took it in later after a healthy blast on the freeway and it passed with flying colours. Touch wood - I haven't had a repeat of the problem over the last 4 years. Dave From david at styletrack401k.com Fri Apr 23 23:24:31 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Fri Apr 23 23:24:32 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own Message-ID: My V8 overheated about a week after I bought it in June '99. The problem persisted for about 3 months before had the radiator 'rodded', which solved overheating (for a couple of years anyway). It really needs a new radiator, but I am a bit cheap and although it came close, it didn't boil over last summer (or at least not after I replaced a faulty electric fan). As for durability - it had 95k on it when the overheating was going on in '99, and has 165k on it now, so in my experience you will probably get lucky. Dave StyleTrack Investment Advisors Phone: (801) 305 1026 Toll free: (888) 704 401k Fax: (530) 303 0023 From dsaad at icehouse.net Fri Apr 23 23:59:51 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (Dave Saad) Date: Fri Apr 23 23:59:52 2004 Subject: [V8] Harbour Freight. NAC In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I think you completely misunderstand my (not very well laid out) point. I do not advocate buying only "made in USA" products. I do advocate trading from countries who are fairly trading with us. I do advocate trading with companies who treat their employees at least slightly better than cattle. To me Germany and most of western Europe for that matter fit this bill. I see no irony at all in owning an Audi. I am not at all against foreign trade - as long as it goes both ways. I even accept that certain types of jobs will eventually move to a lower cost economy. The big picture problem to me anyway is what is the end game? What kinds of industry will be allowed to survive in our economy? Again - we can not be a nation of salesmen. Somebody has to produce something. I think that in order for our (or any) economy to grow, there needs to be manufacturing. Service jobs do not create wealth - they just move it around. Manufacturing creates wealth. Creating new products weather it be software, hardware, tennis shoes, or whatever creates new money for the economy. The bottom line I guess is that I want to make a good living. I can't expect you all to pay me US prices for my services if I buy all my stuff "cheap" from China. In order for me to live well, I have to allow you to live well. This is way off topic here so I will just shut up now, and again I am not trying to pick on anyone. This is just something I am quite interested in. Dave On Friday, April 23, 2004, at 07:24 PM, DasWolfen@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 4/23/04 5:52:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > dsaad@icehouse.net writes: > > The list is getting longer for products and services that are no longer > available "Made in USA". When that list includes your job what will > you be re- > trained for? > We can't all be insurance salesmen. > Somebody has to actually produce something or the economy will > eventually fail > > > > He says while driving a driving a german car...and demanding oem > parts....and ......... > > see the irony? > From dsaad at icehouse.net Sat Apr 24 00:06:59 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (Dave Saad) Date: Sat Apr 24 00:08:32 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 motor mounts? In-Reply-To: <20040424025714.83046.qmail@web60806.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That front mount is called a "torque stop". If it is broken you almost certainly need new motor mounts. Was the new part too short when you installed it? That would indicate collapsed motor mounts. I changed my motor mounts but left the tranny mounts alone. Seems to be OK. (and I used genuine OEM parts - not some cheap knock off :-) Dave On Friday, April 23, 2004, at 08:57 PM, Ron Wainwright wrote: > In my friends case the front mount was broke (near > alternator) on top, > so after replacing it there was a vibration under our > feet in the car & after BTDT with Audi's for a while > now I surmised that the mounts were toast cause of the > engine leaning back slightly for at least a year. & > sure enough after getting under the car to take a look > the mounts had collapsed. > But I would think that a good rule of thumb is that > 100k is a good time to really take a look at the car & > do some preventive maintenance. > I also told him he might want to do the tranny mounts > as well, but well see. > Hope this helps. > Thanks > Ron > 87 5ksq many mods > 90 200tqa many mods > 90 V8 pearl 89k S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds" > > > > --- Lou Fols wrote: >> What is system of bad mounts? I get a thump >> sometimes but I though it was subframe mounts. >> Thanks >> Lou >> > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25? > http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! From lorberg at adelphia.net Sat Apr 24 10:24:32 2004 From: lorberg at adelphia.net (Gunter) Date: Sat Apr 24 10:24:33 2004 Subject: [V8] Wheels wanted and Transmission Filter for sale Message-ID: <00c601c42a07$da55f2e0$c402a8c0@VAIO> Anyone have a set of four rims (unmounted or mounted) kicking around that they wouldn't mind parting with? I have the OEM 15" rims with winter tires (205/65TR15) but wouldn't mind a set a wider summer slicks (perhaps on 16") if the price was right...............they don't need to be in perfect shape. Nicks and scratches make no difference to me..........so long as they're true and vibration free. Car has UFO brakes. I am also offering an automatic transmission filter kit for sale. After taking ownership of the V8Q in the fall, I purchased a filter last November in anticipation that I would need to change it but it just so happens that the fluid in my transmission is thankfully super clean, and that the previous owner had changed the filter three years earlier anyway. I would sell it for $30..........and I'd cover shipping. Gunter 1990 V8Q From kentmclean at mindspring.com Sat Apr 24 16:25:23 2004 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Sat Apr 24 16:25:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: rear windows and moonroof suddenly stopped working Message-ID: <408ACCAE.7020208@mindspring.com> joe wrote in the MarketPlace (which is an unusual place to ask a question): > ...Also my rear windows and moonroof suddenly stopped working?? > I checked the pass side fuses, does anyone know where additional > fuse/relays are located?? Thank you. Sometimes the wires in the rubber boot between the door and the jamb break from old age and too much flexing. Peel the boot back and see if there are any broken wires. You may also find a break in a wire in the driver's door. Since it has switches that controls those windows, a broken wire there could also kill the rear windows. The sunroof has similar problems. IIRC, wires at the trunk hinge suffer a similar fate, and one of those wires powers the sunroof. Check the Audifans archive for more info. Odd that they'd all die at the same time. Kent '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" From smccoy at nd.edu Sun Apr 25 07:17:42 2004 From: smccoy at nd.edu (smccoy@nd.edu) Date: Sun Apr 25 07:17:43 2004 Subject: [V8] Grounding problem with temp & gas gauges Message-ID: <1082891857.408b9e518da9e@webmail.nd.edu> This past year I have read several posts concerning problems with the temp & gas gauges and the seatbeat warning buzzer. It appears to be a common ground problem as the gauges and buzzer will come back to life intermittantly - especially in damp weather. Does anyone know where the ground connection for these are or have another solution to this problem? Thanks Scott McCoy 2 '90 V8s assorted others From michael.a.flynn at us.army.mil Sun Apr 25 11:40:36 2004 From: michael.a.flynn at us.army.mil (michael.a.flynn@us.army.mil) Date: Sun Apr 25 11:40:37 2004 Subject: [V8] Grounding Problem Message-ID: <3317fbf33181e8.33181e83317fbf@us.army.mil> Here's an idea, Remove the dash pad. Turn ignition on and press on the yellow connector behind the IC. Perhaps the bell will chime and the temp and fuel gauge will come to life. (worked for me)Is close to being behind the tach, almost between the tach and speedo. Might want to remove the IC and clean all 5 diff plugs. I was having the same problem. Hope this works for you. Mike Flynn 90 V8 97 A6Q From george.fallot at verizon.net Sun Apr 25 19:22:30 2004 From: george.fallot at verizon.net (george.fallot@verizon.net) Date: Sun Apr 25 19:22:31 2004 Subject: [V8] E-bay V-8 Message-ID: <003e01c42b1b$9c438ac0$1408a8c0@Default> Does anyone have any information about the 1990 pearl V8 in Boston currently on E-bay? Thanks,George From DasWolfen at aol.com Sun Apr 25 19:46:07 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Sun Apr 25 19:46:09 2004 Subject: [V8] E-bay V-8 Message-ID: <1f1.1ecfaea3.2dbda7b8@aol.com> In a message dated 4/25/04 7:22:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, george.fallot@verizon.net writes: > Does anyone have any information about the 1990 pearl V8 in Boston > currently on E-bay? Lots and lots of information From DieMarthaDie at aol.com Sun Apr 25 20:04:02 2004 From: DieMarthaDie at aol.com (DieMarthaDie@aol.com) Date: Sun Apr 25 20:04:03 2004 Subject: [V8] Euro Lights part numbers? Message-ID: <133.2e23a6b7.2dbdabef@aol.com> Ok, some friends in the UK have offered to pick up some lights for me, but I need to know a couple of important things, starting with my assumption that ALL of the lights used are the same, in that they are all 'better' models than we got here... 1) What models' lights fit a 1990 V8 - I assume the 1989-1993 100/200/V8 models have the same lights and connections? more or less? 2) Anyone have the correct usage list and a Bosch/Audi part number? If they find a few sets they'll probably send me extras... they owe me some favors :) John 90 V8Q From john at bysinger.net Sun Apr 25 20:51:35 2004 From: john at bysinger.net (John Bysinger) Date: Sun Apr 25 20:51:36 2004 Subject: [V8] Euro Lights part numbers? In-Reply-To: <133.2e23a6b7.2dbdabef@aol.com> Message-ID: What are the differences between the us and euro versions? I have a cracked right lense on mine and am wondering what the benefit is for the upgrade. -John 90v8q -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf Of DieMarthaDie@aol.com Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2004 5:04 PM To: Subject: [V8] Euro Lights part numbers? Ok, some friends in the UK have offered to pick up some lights for me, but I need to know a couple of important things, starting with my assumption that ALL of the lights used are the same, in that they are all 'better' models than we got here... 1) What models' lights fit a 1990 V8 - I assume the 1989-1993 100/200/V8 models have the same lights and connections? more or less? 2) Anyone have the correct usage list and a Bosch/Audi part number? If they find a few sets they'll probably send me extras... they owe me some favors :) John 90 V8Q _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From mmodels at hotmail.com Mon Apr 26 10:32:37 2004 From: mmodels at hotmail.com (bob moy) Date: Mon Apr 26 10:32:38 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity Message-ID: Sound as though you had a clogged radiator which prevented your electric fan from coming on. Keith from Audi Connection did a great writeup on this subject a couple of years ago. Perhaps someone from this forum still have a copy. Considering that this car is approaching 14 years, it would be wise to replace the radiator instead of trying to get it boil out. Is there white smoke coming from the exhaust? If the answer is yes then you most likely have a blown head gasket. Try running the car with the heater on full heat, this way if the thermostat is stuck the coolant will bypass the thermostat. _________________________________________________________________ Test your ‘Travel Quotient’ and get the chance to win your dream trip! http://travel.msn.com From Paul.Intemann at ae.ge.com Mon Apr 26 10:51:09 2004 From: Paul.Intemann at ae.ge.com (Intemann, Paul (GEAE)) Date: Mon Apr 26 10:51:10 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity Message-ID: <060993FC976B9E45A9708916A037C85901BCC8C6@bwam02msx.ae.ge.com> Think this is the post that Bob is referring to ... Keith, I hope you don't mind my re-posting your words-of-wisdom below: I figure I better explain the circuit fully to eliminate any confusion from something I stated in an earlier post. The following description applies to 3.6 and 4.2 cars. There are two sensors, G82 on the left head, and G83 on the radiator about 1 inch from the outlet. Both are used by the fan control circuit of the instrument cluster. G82 is used by the analog temp gauge circuit and for secondary control of the electric fan. G83's only function is as the primary sensor for control of the electric fan Due to the relative locations of these sensors in the system it is not only possible but virtually guaranteed that G83 will not read as hot as G82. The situation this brings on is the gauge starts climbing into the high end of its range and the outlet temp of the radiator may not be high enough to make the instrument cluster trigger the electric fan. (explaining the sudden rash of calls I'm getting from frantic owners) Geeky stuff........ The instrument cluster fan control circuit completely ignores any reading from G82 as long as G83 is in the loop, that is to say providing a current path. Unplugging G83 results in the fan control circuit defaulting to G82 for fan control. Unplug them both and the fan control circuit assumes an overtemp condition, takes control of the gauge making it read on the high side, and engages the fan in 3rd speed. IMO the test procedure in the manual is a perfect example how incomplete information can cause mechs and DIYers to develop bald spots. Since I despise "Easter egg" troubleshooting and "shotgun" repairs I've come up with my own tests to fully exercise the system, someone may find them helpful. If anyone decides to use these tests please read through them and notes a) thru d) before starting. 1) After the car has been running does the temp gauge have a reading? If so G82 is working and the wiring to the cluster is good. If the gauge reads low all the time the thermostat has probably failed, a defective G82 is possible but not likely. If the gauge doesnt read at all then do test 2, 3, and 4. If they pass but the gauge doesnt do anything in test 4 the gauge is defective. 2) With the car running place the climate control temp setting in LO and turn on the A/C. The fan should now cycle from low speed to second speed and then stay in 2nd speed. Obviously this test requires a fully operational A/C system. An alternate test is to jumper each speed by removing the respective relays at the fuse panel to verify fan operation. 3) Unplug G83 and insert a 100ohm resistor into the connector. Start the car. The fan should now cycle through all three speeds. If this doesnt happen proceed to test #4, if test #4 fails the chip in the cluster has failed. 4) Shut the car off and remove the resistor, leave the connector loose, unplug G82. Start the car. The temp gauge should now read high and the fan should cycle through all three speeds. 5) Shut off the car. Reconnect G82 and leave G83 unplugged. Take a short drive to ensure the engine is warm. Place a large section of cardboard in front of the radiator ensuring the entire radiator face is covered (it doesnt have to be perfect). Start the car. The temp should rise fairly rapidly past the 100c mark on the gauge. At about halfway between 100c and the next higher mark the electric fan should kick on in low speed. 6) Reconnect G83 and redo test 5 with this one change. The fan should come on at about the same temp as it occurred before. If it doesnt then G83 is either defective or the radiator is clogged. Notes: a) The tests must be done in the order they are written for the results I've supplied to be valid. b) The A/C should be off for all test with the exception of #2 c) The three speeds of the fan are pretty easy to recognize. Low speed should be almost silent but moving a pretty fair amount of air (much more than the engine fan) Second speed is easily heard and moves a lot of air. High speed sounds like a blow dryer on high and will make you think you have a small hurricane generator under the hood. For situations where the fan doesnt operate at all or fails to operate in one or two modes please refer to the manual for troubleshooting. d) If you have an overtemp condition and the entire electric fan system is operational, there are a few other possibilities. Listed by likelihood IME: Failed mechanical fan clutch, clogged radiator, blown head gasket/cracked head, or stuck thermostat. The really quick minded may have seized on the fact that if you leave G83 unplugged an otherwise fully functional system will operate the way most would assume, with the fan coming on by engine temp and not radiator outlet temp. I dont recommend anyone intentionally bypass a sensor Audi installed but .......... I know of at least two V8s operating this way, and one will soon have two other mods to ensure proper cooling. Keith cool running 89 V8 # 527 -----Original Message----- From: bob moy [mailto:mmodels@hotmail.com] Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 10:33 AM To: V8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity Sound as though you had a clogged radiator which prevented your electric fan from coming on. Keith from Audi Connection did a great writeup on this subject a couple of years ago. Perhaps someone from this forum still have a copy. Considering that this car is approaching 14 years, it would be wise to replace the radiator instead of trying to get it boil out. Is there white smoke coming from the exhaust? If the answer is yes then you most likely have a blown head gasket. Try running the car with the heater on full heat, this way if the thermostat is stuck the coolant will bypass the thermostat. _________________________________________________________________ Test your 'Travel Quotient' and get the chance to win your dream trip! http://travel.msn.com _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From skramer at mac.com Mon Apr 26 12:40:31 2004 From: skramer at mac.com (Steve Kramer) Date: Mon Apr 26 12:40:32 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my ownstupidity References: Message-ID: <001501c42bad$24b58930$6701a8c0@Macpaq> Please get the radiator replaced. You can find o.e.m radiators online for $300 at 1-800 radiators and I think the labor is 2-3 hours max. Here's my story. I'm lucky that my v8 is still alive. A while back , our beloved Cubs were in the playoffs. On this particular night, the Marlin were playing the Cubs for the first time in Chicago.- A night game I had arrived home around 6 and turned on the v8 since I hadn't driven it for a couple of days. Had dinner and watched the Cubs - completely forgetting that my car was still on. Went upstairs around 8 pm and to my horror realized thatI had left my car on for the last 2 hours on a 70 degree night. Went outside and the car was still going - however, a pool of radiator fluid was sitting next to the passenger wheel. The temp guage was all the way past the hot mark and the oil temp was up way past the middle hash mark. You could have fried an egg on the hood - it was that hot. The car was still running!!! Quickly I turned off the car. Taking the car to the mechanic, I was prepared for the worst. Luckily, what had blown was a fitting on the the Heater core. The engine was ok and no white smoke. Possibly, the only thing which I cooked was my cat converter- as my cat in the morning makes a raspy sound - possibly condensation - it does go away after a while. Months later my v8 with a new radiator is still going strong. There is no white smoke and no internal " bleeding" . Thankfully the aluminum cylinder and block handled the extreme temp. I wish I had done the radiator install before this happened and all the b.s. that owners go through to deal with a clogged radiator. It's not worth what I went through. Get it replaced. Steve Kramer 1990 v8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "bob moy" To: Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 9:32 AM Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my ownstupidity > Sound as though you had a clogged radiator which prevented your electric fan > from coming on. > > Keith from Audi Connection did a great writeup on this subject a couple of > years ago. Perhaps someone from this forum still have a copy. > > Considering that this car is approaching 14 years, it would be wise to > replace the radiator instead of trying to get it boil out. > > Is there white smoke coming from the exhaust? If the answer is yes then you > most likely have a blown head gasket. Try running the car with the heater > on full heat, this way if the thermostat is stuck the coolant will bypass > the thermostat. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Test your 'Travel Quotient' and get the chance to win your dream trip! > http://travel.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! > From lundabo at msn.com Mon Apr 26 13:40:26 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Mon Apr 26 13:40:27 2004 Subject: [V8] Diagnosis: Car Dying Message-ID: Hi all, Came to a stop light yesterday and the car died. Would not restart for about 10 minutes, then suddenly started and ran fine. I was thinking it was one of the engine sensors, but when it restarted, the temp gauge was reading as high as it ever got. In the past when I've had the problem, the car had to cool down to about 1/4 of the gauge before it would restart. Any ideas? Comments? TIA Bill Gutierrez 1990 V8 5spd _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From CoultL at aol.com Mon Apr 26 13:58:18 2004 From: CoultL at aol.com (CoultL@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 26 13:58:19 2004 Subject: [V8] Diagnosis: Car Dying Message-ID: <714531B2.7EFB7EB4.0004871B@aol.com> This sounds like a classic crank position or engine speed sensor failure. If one is going then the other is probably not far behind. You are going to have to pull both of them out so you might as well replace both. I bought mine off ebay for about $130 each. -Justin Lewis From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 26 16:45:25 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Mon Apr 26 16:45:26 2004 Subject: [V8] 93 S4 sport seats fitted in my car Message-ID: <20040426204523.41370.qmail@web60809.mail.yahoo.com> Listers, Thanks for the info on if the newer sport seats would work in my 90 V8 & they do. They allso look great in the car. All functions work including the heated seats & memorie. I got a good deal on them as well spent $400 for the front seats in great condition. Well i'm pleased with the updated look. Next is the 3 spoke steering wheel from the 95.5 S6 to be fitted, info on that to come. Thanks Ron 87 5ksq many mods 90 200tqa many mods 90 V8 pearl S4 17's, Stebro exhaust, "Big Reds", 93 S4 Black sport seats __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash From cobram at juno.com Mon Apr 26 17:04:05 2004 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Mon Apr 26 17:04:25 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <20040426.180545.-986793.0.Cobram@juno.com> Ron Wainwright writes: > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago: From: Cobram@juno.com To: v8q@u.washington.edu Finally got around to changing the long ago purchased motor mounts on the 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone wanting it: Remove the bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of bent vice grips to hold the rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when you remove the 10mm nuts holding the cover on. Remove the two side air intakes on top with the same 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides of the engine headers. (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold your "Big Wheels" pedals on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a 17mm universal socket (a regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) with a THIN extension on it over the top motor mount nut through the header pipe on the right side. The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box end 17mm angle wrench. (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There isn't enough room to get an extension through the headers on this side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor mounts, loosen the 4 sub frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the same 17mm universal on the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil recommended, as these bolts get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and bolts are off the motor mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best place I've found for lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack and lift with the top of the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on. For the right side, placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket against the engine worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to remove the old engine mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, "installation is reverse of removal." One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom motor mounts bolts was so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut that the bolt goes through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the bolt while I turned the nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put the bolt in from the top and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this again in ten years. BCNU, http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ From QuickAudi at aol.com Mon Apr 26 19:27:02 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 26 19:27:03 2004 Subject: [V8] Sport/Economy mode question Message-ID: <536ABCF1.739CD5BE.028D39B4@aol.com> I was under the impression that little switch in the center console of the V8 autos was a transmission adjustment only, i.e., increase shift points and hold a lower gear longer. For that reason, I have just been leaving the car in economy and holding my foot to the floor when accelerating. The reason I ask is it feels like it wants to run more when in sport mode. Probably my imagination. Anyway, it is a transmission thing only, right? Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq From jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net Mon Apr 26 19:43:30 2004 From: jpb3wvu at frontiernet.net (jpb3) Date: Mon Apr 26 19:43:31 2004 Subject: [V8] Coolant level, bringing it back to capacity Message-ID: <002601c42be8$ca199de0$03fea8c0@domain.invalid> Hi, I just re-installed the radiator after completing the TB job. My question is how other listers have purged the air from the cooling system and filled it back up to capacity? I tried using a funnel on the inlet (top) but got nowhere with that. I don't think that just adding coolant to the reservoir is going to do the trick is it? Is there a good way to purge the system of air and such? TIA for any responses. john From DasWolfen at aol.com Mon Apr 26 20:04:18 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 26 20:04:20 2004 Subject: [V8] Coolant level, bringing it back to capacity Message-ID: In a message dated 4/26/04 7:43:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jpb3wvu@frontiernet.net writes: > I just re-installed the radiator after completing the TB job. My question > is how other listers have purged the air from the cooling system and filled > it back up to capacity? I tried using a funnel on the inlet (top) but got > nowhere with that. I don't think that just adding coolant to the reservoir > is going to do the trick is it? Is there a good way to purge the system of > air and such? TIA for any responses. It purges itself after it heats up and then cools off again. Shouldnt take more than two heating/cooling cycles to purge. Side note... Its usually only the heater core that needs purged. The engine's water jacket is much lower than the recirc tank and the heater core. From DasWolfen at aol.com Mon Apr 26 20:08:16 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Mon Apr 26 20:08:17 2004 Subject: [V8] Sport/Economy mode question Message-ID: <105.44ee5ef9.2dbefe6d@aol.com> In a message dated 4/26/04 7:27:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, QuickAudi@aol.com writes: > I was under the impression that little switch in the center console of the > V8 autos was a transmission adjustment only, i.e., increase shift points and > hold a lower gear longer. For that reason, I have just been leaving the car > in economy and holding my foot to the floor when accelerating. The reason I > ask is it feels like it wants to run more when in sport mode. Probably my > imagination. Anyway, it is a transmission thing only, right? > Not your imagination...... The key is the lockup torque convertor, when in sport mode it doesnt lock up in 3rd at all and not till very late in 4th. Allows the engine to wind up much quicker. From jward at mti-interactive.com Mon Apr 26 22:21:11 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Mon Apr 26 22:21:13 2004 Subject: [V8] A\C Message-ID: So on my way to class tonight, I realized that I never fixed my Air at the end of last Fall... It seems to kind of, sort of want to blow cold, but lacks the ability. I think it is safe to assume I need a recharge. It rings a bell that there is a new type of gas that is better than the old type of gas, and some have converted their systems... Could someone explain the advantage of the conversion and the cost / procedure? Also, who should I take it to for the recharge? Dealer? (Just kidding). Audi mechanic? Or A\C specialist? Assuming that I am so low on gas that the low pressure switch sometimes prevents the system from working, how much do I probably need, and how much should I expect a recharge to cost? Thanks in advance, - Jeremy -------------------------- Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld From dsaad at icehouse.net Mon Apr 26 23:30:10 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (Dave Saad) Date: Mon Apr 26 23:30:12 2004 Subject: [V8] A\C In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2BC9F06A-97FB-11D8-9382-00050270DF6D@icehouse.net> If your system does not need any repairs, then just add R12 and be done with it. It is the best refrigerant for your system. If you have to fix some major part though, it is probably wise to do the conversion to the new stuff - R134a I think is the spec. Your system will not be quite as powerful as with R12 but it still should work OK. You need at least a new compressor/clutch, drier, and orifice thingy. (technical term) plus whatever went wrong to cause your current problem for a conversion. I have priced it out and you can expect to spend around a K buck. ($1000) Lots of expensive parts need to be replaced is the problem. My A/C guy swore up and down that nobody came into his shop with low refrigerant that did not need something replaced. Then he met me. He could not find any leaks in my factory original system so he just recharged it and I was good to go. Hopefully you will be as lucky. The recharge was only about $100. A factor of ten improvement over his estimate to convert. I have heard tell of some cheapo conversion kits where you just change the fittings and refill with the new juice. I would stay away from that. You will only end up doing a proper conversion after it fails on you. Dave On Monday, April 26, 2004, at 08:19 PM, Jeremy Ward wrote: > So on my way to class tonight, I realized that I never fixed my Air at > the end of last Fall... > > It seems to kind of, sort of want to blow cold, but lacks the ability. > I think it is safe to assume I need a recharge. > > It rings a bell that there is a new type of gas that is better than > the old type of gas, and some have converted their systems... Could > someone explain the advantage of the conversion and the cost / > procedure? > > Also, who should I take it to for the recharge? Dealer? (Just > kidding). Audi mechanic? Or A\C specialist? Assuming that I am so > low on gas that the low pressure switch sometimes prevents the system > from working, how much do I probably need, and how much should I > expect a recharge to cost? > > Thanks in advance, > > - Jeremy > > -------------------------- > Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! From DasWolfen at aol.com Tue Apr 27 07:50:25 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Tue Apr 27 07:50:26 2004 Subject: [V8] A\C Message-ID: <45.a5b3276.2dbfa2f7@aol.com> Comments inserted....... In a message dated 4/26/04 11:30:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dsaad@icehouse.net writes: > If your system does not need any repairs, then just add R12 and be done > with it. It is the best refrigerant for your system. Agreed, R12 is better than anything else....if you can get it. > If you have to fix some major part though, it is probably wise to do > the conversion to the new stuff - R134a I think is the spec. Your > system will not be quite as powerful as with R12 but it still should > work OK. > You need at least a new compressor/clutch, drier, and orifice thingy. > (technical term) plus whatever went wrong to cause your current problem > for a conversion. Incorrect, see below...... > I have priced it out and you can expect to spend around a K buck. > ($1000) > Lots of expensive parts need to be replaced is the problem. My A/C guy > swore up and down that nobody came into his shop with low refrigerant > that did not need something replaced. Then he met me. He could not find > any leaks in my factory original system so he just recharged it and I > was good to go. Hopefully you will be as lucky. The recharge was only > about $100. A factor of ten improvement over his estimate to convert. > I have heard tell of some cheapo conversion kits where you just change > the fittings and refill with the new juice. I would stay away from > that. You will only end up doing a proper conversion after it fails on > you. > The cheapo conversion kits do in fact work just fine. The key is getting a full charge. It can take several attempts at filling before you get fully charged but its no more difficult than what we used to do with small cans of R-12. The last car I did in this manner, a 91 200q20v, hasn't had any problems at all from what the owner has reported. As for replacing parts because they are "required".....BS... In some older cars its required to replace hoses or seals because they are not compatible with R-134a. This is not an issue with the V8 or any Audi since at least 86 for that matter. Orifice valves don't get replaced unless the compressor has failed and filled up the valve screens with metal particles. Even then the valve can usually just be removed and cleaned...BTDT. Driers only need changed if the system has been completely empty for a period of time. Compressors "might" need changed on some cars if the compressor was marginal in its R-12 application. Not an issue with any Type 44. Installing a larger condensor would help R-134a performance....but unless you know where to get a custom one made you're out of luck. Even late V8's with factory R-134a used the same size condensor as R-12 cars. The "right" way to switch to R-134a on an Audi is to have the system vacuumed and checked that it holds vac. Then pressurized with nitrogen...and check that it holds pressure...then vacced again and filled with a full charge of R-134a and oil. In the past three years I've had at least 15 cars converted this way and none have had the slightest problem. Keith From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Tue Apr 27 09:21:25 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Tue Apr 27 09:21:25 2004 Subject: [V8] A\C Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA429@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> As far as where to have this done, I had a good experience at a local A/C specialist. The shop essentially told me a combination of what Dave and Keith opined: for a 134 conversion, replace the dryer and valve, and fill. Though the coldness might suffer a tad, it's the preferred way to go. I'd developed a pinhole in one of the lines, but rather than jump to R134 (god forbid I contribute to a cleaner atmosphere), I opted to have them replace the line and evac/refill w/ R12. Works like a champ. Total bill with labor, line, and r12 fill was under $500. I also recall a post on R408 as an r12 substitute, but know nothing else about it. I don't think it's mainstream. Step 1: ask around for a competent a/c specialist, unless you're near VA. -dc -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf Of DasWolfen@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 7:50 AM To: dsaad@icehouse.net; v8@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] A\C Comments inserted....... In a message dated 4/26/04 11:30:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, dsaad@icehouse.net writes: > If your system does not need any repairs, then just add R12 and be done > with it. It is the best refrigerant for your system. Agreed, R12 is better than anything else....if you can get it. > If you have to fix some major part though, it is probably wise to do > the conversion to the new stuff - R134a I think is the spec. Your > system will not be quite as powerful as with R12 but it still should > work OK. > You need at least a new compressor/clutch, drier, and orifice thingy. > (technical term) plus whatever went wrong to cause your current problem > for a conversion. Incorrect, see below...... > I have priced it out and you can expect to spend around a K buck. > ($1000) > Lots of expensive parts need to be replaced is the problem. My A/C guy > swore up and down that nobody came into his shop with low refrigerant > that did not need something replaced. Then he met me. He could not find > any leaks in my factory original system so he just recharged it and I > was good to go. Hopefully you will be as lucky. The recharge was only > about $100. A factor of ten improvement over his estimate to convert. > I have heard tell of some cheapo conversion kits where you just change > the fittings and refill with the new juice. I would stay away from > that. You will only end up doing a proper conversion after it fails on > you. > The cheapo conversion kits do in fact work just fine. The key is getting a full charge. It can take several attempts at filling before you get fully charged but its no more difficult than what we used to do with small cans of R-12. The last car I did in this manner, a 91 200q20v, hasn't had any problems at all from what the owner has reported. As for replacing parts because they are "required".....BS... In some older cars its required to replace hoses or seals because they are not compatible with R-134a. This is not an issue with the V8 or any Audi since at least 86 for that matter. Orifice valves don't get replaced unless the compressor has failed and filled up the valve screens with metal particles. Even then the valve can usually just be removed and cleaned...BTDT. Driers only need changed if the system has been completely empty for a period of time. Compressors "might" need changed on some cars if the compressor was marginal in its R-12 application. Not an issue with any Type 44. Installing a larger condensor would help R-134a performance....but unless you know where to get a custom one made you're out of luck. Even late V8's with factory R-134a used the same size condensor as R-12 cars. The "right" way to switch to R-134a on an Audi is to have the system vacuumed and checked that it holds vac. Then pressurized with nitrogen...and check that it holds pressure...then vacced again and filled with a full charge of R-134a and oil. In the past three years I've had at least 15 cars converted this way and none have had the slightest problem. Keith _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From Bob.Korn at Fike.com Tue Apr 27 13:00:46 2004 From: Bob.Korn at Fike.com (Korn, Bob) Date: Tue Apr 27 13:00:48 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C87DD@BLSUSAEXCH1> Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you notice with the worn motor mounts? My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder during initial acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss, was wondering if this could be the mounts??? Bob 90 V8Q Pearl 136K -----Original Message----- From: cobram@juno.com [mailto:cobram@juno.com] Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM To: ron_01056@yahoo.com Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Ron Wainwright writes: > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this before > I was wondering if any lister can help with any BTDT? > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get to > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best way > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago: From: Cobram@juno.com To: v8q@u.washington.edu Finally got around to changing the long ago purchased motor mounts on the 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone wanting it: Remove the bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of bent vice grips to hold the rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when you remove the 10mm nuts holding the cover on. Remove the two side air intakes on top with the same 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides of the engine headers. (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold your "Big Wheels" pedals on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a 17mm universal socket (a regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) with a THIN extension on it over the top motor mount nut through the header pipe on the right side. The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box end 17mm angle wrench. (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There isn't enough room to get an extension through the headers on this side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor mounts, loosen the 4 sub frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the same 17mm universal on the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil recommended, as these bolts get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and bolts are off the motor mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best place I've found for lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack and lift with the top of the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on. For the right side, placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket against the engine worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to remove the old engine mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, "installation is reverse of removal." One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom motor mounts bolts was so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut that the bolt goes through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the bolt while I turned the nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put the bolt in from the top and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this again in ten years. BCNU, http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 27 13:18:52 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Tue Apr 27 13:19:15 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 In-Reply-To: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C87DD@BLSUSAEXCH1> Message-ID: <20040427171845.19141.qmail@web60809.mail.yahoo.com> A very severe vibration under our feet when putting the hammer down. Which made us look at the mounts & from what we seen they both were collapsed. Hope this helps. Thanks Ron --- "Korn, Bob" wrote: > Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you > notice with the worn > motor mounts? > My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder > during initial > acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss, > was wondering if this > could be the mounts??? > > > Bob > 90 V8Q Pearl 136K > > > -----Original Message----- > From: cobram@juno.com [mailto:cobram@juno.com] > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM > To: ron_01056@yahoo.com > Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > Ron Wainwright writes: > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this > before > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any > BTDT? > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get > to > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best > way > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > > Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago: > > From: Cobram@juno.com > To: v8q@u.washington.edu > > > Finally got around to changing the long ago > purchased motor mounts on the > 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone > wanting it: Remove the > bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of bent > vice grips to hold the > rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when > you remove the 10mm nuts > holding the cover on. Remove the two side air > intakes on top with the same > 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides > of the engine headers. > (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold > your "Big Wheels" pedals > on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a > 17mm universal socket (a > regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) > with a THIN extension on > it over the top motor mount nut through the header > pipe on the right side. > The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box > end 17mm angle wrench. > (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There > isn't enough room to get > an extension through the headers on this > side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor > mounts, loosen the 4 sub > frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the > same 17mm universal on > the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil > recommended, as these bolts > get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and > bolts are off the motor > mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best > place I've found for > lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack > and lift with the top of > the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on. > For the right side, > placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket > against the engine > worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to > remove the old engine > mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, > "installation is reverse > of removal." > > One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom > motor mounts bolts was > so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut > that the bolt goes > through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the > bolt while I turned the > nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put > the bolt in from the top > and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this > again in ten years. > > BCNU, > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans > Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding > to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover From Bob.Korn at Fike.com Tue Apr 27 13:34:01 2004 From: Bob.Korn at Fike.com (Korn, Bob) Date: Tue Apr 27 13:34:03 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C87F3@BLSUSAEXCH1> The shudder I feel only lasts for a few seconds, then the engine pulls smoothly to redline. It's been their for awhile, I notice the torque stop was separated about 20K ago. Haven't examined the motor mounts yet, is it obvious when they are collapsed? TIA Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ron Wainwright [mailto:ron_01056@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 12:19 PM To: Korn, Bob Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 A very severe vibration under our feet when putting the hammer down. Which made us look at the mounts & from what we seen they both were collapsed. Hope this helps. Thanks Ron --- "Korn, Bob" wrote: > Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you > notice with the worn > motor mounts? > My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder > during initial > acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss, > was wondering if this > could be the mounts??? > > > Bob > 90 V8Q Pearl 136K > > > -----Original Message----- > From: cobram@juno.com [mailto:cobram@juno.com] > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM > To: ron_01056@yahoo.com > Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > Ron Wainwright writes: > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this > before > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any > BTDT? > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get > to > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best > way > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > > Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago: > > From: Cobram@juno.com > To: v8q@u.washington.edu > > > Finally got around to changing the long ago > purchased motor mounts on the > 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone > wanting it: Remove the > bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of bent > vice grips to hold the > rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when > you remove the 10mm nuts > holding the cover on. Remove the two side air > intakes on top with the same > 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides > of the engine headers. > (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold > your "Big Wheels" pedals > on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a > 17mm universal socket (a > regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) > with a THIN extension on > it over the top motor mount nut through the header > pipe on the right side. > The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box > end 17mm angle wrench. > (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There > isn't enough room to get > an extension through the headers on this > side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor > mounts, loosen the 4 sub > frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the > same 17mm universal on > the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil > recommended, as these bolts > get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and > bolts are off the motor > mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best > place I've found for > lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack > and lift with the top of > the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on. > For the right side, > placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket > against the engine > worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to > remove the old engine > mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, > "installation is reverse > of removal." > > One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom > motor mounts bolts was > so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut > that the bolt goes > through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the > bolt while I turned the > nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put > the bolt in from the top > and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this > again in ten years. > > BCNU, > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans > Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding > to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover From cobram at juno.com Tue Apr 27 13:40:34 2004 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Tue Apr 27 13:40:34 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <20040427.133940.3540.0.Cobram@juno.com> "Korn, Bob" writes: > Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you notice with the > worn motor mounts? I was getting a vibration in the cabin while stopped in gear. BCNU, http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 27 13:47:49 2004 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Tue Apr 27 13:47:50 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 In-Reply-To: <89E79DBC7CF3D211B3CF0000F6B792770E8C87F3@BLSUSAEXCH1> Message-ID: <20040427174747.19990.qmail@web60803.mail.yahoo.com> Takes some fanagiling to get in a posssition to look but you can see if they are cracked, broke, collapsed or a combination of all the above. Thanks Ron --- "Korn, Bob" wrote: > The shudder I feel only lasts for a few seconds, > then the engine pulls > smoothly to redline. It's been their for awhile, I > notice the torque stop > was separated about 20K ago. Haven't examined the > motor mounts yet, is it > obvious when they are collapsed? > TIA > > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ron Wainwright [mailto:ron_01056@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 12:19 PM > To: Korn, Bob > Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > > A very severe vibration under our feet when putting > the hammer down. Which made us look at the mounts & > from what we seen they both were collapsed. > Hope this helps. > Thanks > Ron > > > --- "Korn, Bob" wrote: > > Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did > you > > notice with the worn > > motor mounts? > > My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight > shudder > > during initial > > acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss, > > was wondering if this > > could be the mounts??? > > > > > > Bob > > 90 V8Q Pearl 136K > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: cobram@juno.com [mailto:cobram@juno.com] > > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM > > To: ron_01056@yahoo.com > > Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com > > Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > > > > Ron Wainwright writes: > > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R > his > > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this > > before > > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any > > BTDT? > > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to > get > > to > > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the > best > > way > > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want > to > > > open any more cans of worms than is allready > open. > > > > Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago: > > > > From: Cobram@juno.com > > To: v8q@u.washington.edu > > > > > > Finally got around to changing the long ago > > purchased motor mounts on the > > 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone > > wanting it: Remove the > > bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of > bent > > vice grips to hold the > > rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when > > you remove the 10mm nuts > > holding the cover on. Remove the two side air > > intakes on top with the same > > 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides > > of the engine headers. > > (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold > > your "Big Wheels" pedals > > on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a > > 17mm universal socket (a > > regular socket with a universal on it will NOT > fit) > > with a THIN extension on > > it over the top motor mount nut through the header > > pipe on the right side. > > The Left side top nut can only be removed with a > box > > end 17mm angle wrench. > > (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There > > isn't enough room to get > > an extension through the headers on this > > side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor > > mounts, loosen the 4 sub > > frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit > the > > same 17mm universal on > > the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil > > recommended, as these bolts > > get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and > > bolts are off the motor > > mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best > > place I've found for > > lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the > jack > > and lift with the top of > > the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor > on. > > For the right side, > > placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator > bracket > > against the engine > > worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to > > remove the old engine > > mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, > > "installation is reverse > > of removal." > > > > One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of > bottom > > motor mounts bolts was > > so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut > > that the bolt goes > > through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the > > bolt while I turned the > > nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I > put > > the bolt in from the top > > and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this > > again in ten years. > > > > BCNU, > > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ > > _______________________________________________ > > Audifans V8 mailing list > > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > > Manage your list connection: > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans > > Knowledgebase! > > > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding > > to the KB ... all > > contributions welcome! > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs > http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover From CoultL at aol.com Tue Apr 27 13:52:07 2004 From: CoultL at aol.com (CoultL@aol.com) Date: Tue Apr 27 13:52:08 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <4B0DFA04.5480E8D5.0004871B@aol.com> I think you can ID worn motor mounts by the distance between the oil pan and subframe. I think this distance is less than 1/4" if they are toast. Anyone want to confirm this? -Justin Lewis From justin.bowers at comcast.net Tue Apr 27 14:19:45 2004 From: justin.bowers at comcast.net (justin.bowers@comcast.net) Date: Tue Apr 27 14:19:46 2004 Subject: [V8] What goes down, won't come up! Message-ID: <042720041819.25219.408EA43B000019C1000062832200735834FF8C8D9A88909DD191968B8C8A@comcast.net> Hi All, On my way to work this morning I rolled down the driver side window, upon attempting to roll it back up - it decided not to cooperate. I can hear the motor working when I push the switch, but again no movement on the window itself. Is it likely the regulator, which would mean replacement, or could it be something else? I'm asking becuase if the common belief is that it is the regulator needing replacement then I'll order right now so it will arrive sooner...if it could be something else, I'll wait until I can open up the door later this evening. Any suggestions or insight will be appreciated. Thanks, Justin 90 V8q From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Tue Apr 27 15:00:37 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Tue Apr 27 15:00:38 2004 Subject: [V8] What goes down, won't come up! Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C2148D@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... if you can hear a motor operating it has to be something with the regulator ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > On my way to work this morning I rolled down the driver side > window, upon attempting to roll it back up - it decided not > to cooperate. I can hear the motor working when I push the > switch, but again no movement on the window itself. > > Is it likely the regulator, which would mean replacement, or > could it be something else? > > I'm asking becuase if the common belief is that it is the > regulator needing replacement then I'll order right now so it > will arrive sooner...if it could be something else, I'll wait > until I can open up the door later this evening. > > Any suggestions or insight will be appreciated. From dsaad at icehouse.net Tue Apr 27 15:58:04 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Tue Apr 27 15:58:05 2004 Subject: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 Message-ID: <1083095913.408ebb69d2c89@webmail.icehouse.net> If there is a gap in the torque stop pieces, the motor mounts are likely toast. If you can not remove the IAC without first removing the engine fan shroud, they are toast. The gap from sub-frame to oil pan would also be a sure fire test but I don't know what the distance should be. If you get a clunk under your feet under hard acceleration, they could be toast but this could also be a bent cross member (courtesy of your local tire shop) or the exhaust pipes are hanging a little low. Basically, if they are original they are probably shot. You will be amazed they were able to hold your motor in. I pulled the engine mounting stud out of my old mount by hand. The new ones have a heat shield that hopefully will make them last longer. Dave Quoting "Korn, Bob" : > The shudder I feel only lasts for a few seconds, then the engine pulls > smoothly to redline. It's been their for awhile, I notice the torque > stop > was separated about 20K ago. Haven't examined the motor mounts yet, is > it > obvious when they are collapsed? > TIA > > > Bob > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ron Wainwright [ma ilto:ron_01056@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 12:19 PM > To: Korn, Bob > Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > > A very severe vibration under our feet when putting > the hammer down. Which made us look at the mounts & > from what we seen they both were collapsed. > Hope this helps. > Thanks > Ron > > > --- "Korn, Bob" wrote: > > Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you > > notice with the worn > > motor mounts? > > My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder > > during initial > > acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss, > > was wondering if this > > could be the mounts??? > > > > > > Bob > > 90 V8Q Pearl 136K > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: cobram@juno.com [mailto :cobram@juno.com] > > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM > > To: ron_01056@yahoo.com > > Cc: v8@audifans.com; quattro@audifans.com > > Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8 > > > > > > Ron Wainwright writes: > > > > > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his > > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this > > before > > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any > > BTDT? > > > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get > > to > > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best > > way > > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to > > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open. > > > > Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago: > > > > From: Cobram@juno.com > > To: v8q@u.washington.edu > > > > > > Finally got around to changing the long ago > > purchased motor mounts on the > > 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone > > wanting it: Remove the > > bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of bent > > vice grips to hold the > > rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when > > you remove the 10mm nuts > > holding the cover on. Remove the two side air > > intakes on top with the same > > 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides > > of the engine headers. > > (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold > > your "Big Wheels" pedals > > on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a > > 17mm universal socket (a > > regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) > > with a THIN extension on > > it over the top motor mount nut through the header > > pipe on the right side. > > The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box > > end 17mm angle wrench. > > (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There > > isn't enough room to get > > an extension through the headers on this > > side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor > > mounts, loosen the 4 sub > > frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the > > same 17mm universal on > > the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil > > recommended, as these bolts > > get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and > > bolts are off the motor > > mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best > > place I've found for > > lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack > > and lift with the top of > > the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on. > > For the right side, > > placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket > > against the engine > > worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to > > remove the old engine > > mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms, > > "installation is reverse > > of removal." > > > > One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom > > motor mounts bolts was > > so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut > > that the bolt goes > > through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the > > bolt while I turned the > > nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put > > the bolt in from the top > > and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this > > again in ten years. > > > > BCNU, > > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/ From justin.bowers at comcast.net Wed Apr 28 02:13:21 2004 From: justin.bowers at comcast.net (Justin Bowers) Date: Wed Apr 28 02:13:23 2004 Subject: [V8] Window Regulator - what goes down... In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C2148D@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: <000301c42ce7$edd085f0$041eab43@justinukslcb8o> I took the door panel off and it is indeed the regulator. There is a cable that comes out the side of the motor that is broken - which brings up the next question...anyone replaced one of these before!?! Any help/suggestions on the R&R of the driver side window regulator will be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, Justin -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On Behalf Of Buchholz, Steven Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 12:01 PM To: 'v8@audifans.com' Subject: RE: [V8] What goes down, won't come up! ... if you can hear a motor operating it has to be something with the regulator ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) > > On my way to work this morning I rolled down the driver side > window, upon attempting to roll it back up - it decided not > to cooperate. I can hear the motor working when I push the > switch, but again no movement on the window itself. > > Is it likely the regulator, which would mean replacement, or > could it be something else? > > I'm asking becuase if the common belief is that it is the > regulator needing replacement then I'll order right now so it > will arrive sooner...if it could be something else, I'll wait > until I can open up the door later this evening. > > Any suggestions or insight will be appreciated. _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From RichardMor at aol.com Wed Apr 28 11:58:38 2004 From: RichardMor at aol.com (RichardMor@aol.com) Date: Wed Apr 28 11:58:39 2004 Subject: [V8] Window Regulator Message-ID: <15f.2ebffca7.2dc12ea5@aol.com> <> Justin - have had to do this 3 times. On all 3 of mine (driver, passenger and DS rear windows), the cable separated at the oval stop clamp (the oval piece that clamps both cable ends together). I've saved all my broken ones thinking an "oetiker" clamp or something else may repair them. Unless you can repair yours, you'll have to purchase a new/used regulator with integral cable. Good luck, Richard From RichardMor at aol.com Wed Apr 28 12:02:08 2004 From: RichardMor at aol.com (RichardMor@aol.com) Date: Wed Apr 28 12:02:10 2004 Subject: [V8] Worn Engine Mounts Message-ID: When I first heard my engine mounts had collapsed was at the Audi dealer. The V8 specialist simply looked at the clearance between the engine/air cleaner cover and the rod at the top of the firewall. He said the engine should sit up almost level with that rod. Simple way to tell. It proved true in my case - replaced the mounts and the engine sits up as he said. Richard From kyle_leatherwood at hotmail.com Wed Apr 28 12:34:54 2004 From: kyle_leatherwood at hotmail.com (kyle leatherwood) Date: Wed Apr 28 12:34:55 2004 Subject: [V8] white gauge face question Message-ID: I have white gauge faces in my 80 Quattro and was wondering if they are available for the V8. If they are, where are they available from. Just wondering. By the way I have put 4,250 fun, exhilarating miles on the V8 so far. This weekend she gets a new timing belt, seals, and water pump. I plan to begin at 4:00 or so Friday and guess I may be finished by Sunday afternoon sometime. ( I am always extremely pessimistic about jobs like this.) Thanks everyone! Kyle _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ From Etdmail at cs.com Wed Apr 28 12:47:03 2004 From: Etdmail at cs.com (Etdmail@cs.com) Date: Wed Apr 28 12:47:17 2004 Subject: [V8] Window Regulator .. Ups & Downs. Message-ID: <48.2b09494f.2dc13a02@cs.com> Hi Justin & all .. Had a similar occurrence in my V8. I was able to lock the window in an up position, with a piece of wire until I could get a new regulator and install it. Trying to fix a broken (cable-type) regulator is often not worth it, I was told .. And ordered a new replacement, through a friend's whole sale parts account. The new part was just over $100.00. At large savings over Audi dealer costs needless to say. HTH Best, Ed _____________________________________________________ From barberat at yahoo.com Wed Apr 28 13:54:57 2004 From: barberat at yahoo.com (Thomas Barbera) Date: Wed Apr 28 13:54:58 2004 Subject: [V8] Family Album? Message-ID: <20040428175456.76869.qmail@web60802.mail.yahoo.com> Anyone know where I can get the family album? My current album is outdated and has been damaged, no longer viewable. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tom B. '91 V8 5spd (smokin', literally) __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/careermakeover From baumanns at baldwin-telecom.net Sat Apr 10 09:36:09 2004 From: baumanns at baldwin-telecom.net (Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:50:36 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <009901c41f00$c530b060$0100a8c0@your6bvpxyztoq> Hi all - Sorry to be redundant about a UFO question: What is required for a UFO to Girling conversion? I was told that the actual Girling setup is straight off of the VW Corrado, and as such I could use the Corrado calipers. My question is this - does a guy merely pull the UFO's and remove the UFO style caliper, and bolt-in the G60 caliper? I see Zimmerman rotors on Ebay for pretty cheap, and can also find G60's from a Corrado for reasonable as well. Is there any other modification that is required, such as brake lines, suspension, etc? I do not have a single manual for my V8Q, and as such have no point of reference. Thanks Scott Baumann From dsaadNOSPAM at icehouse.net Sun Apr 11 00:35:48 2004 From: dsaadNOSPAM at icehouse.net (remove NOSPAM) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:50:46 2004 Subject: [V8] 15" wheels 1990 V8A AT In-Reply-To: <000501c416c5$90154d20$5ce0c4ac@aoldsl.net> Message-ID: Mine has been my daily driver for the last 4 years. I have had to take it down now and again but overall it has been reliable. Maybe the manual tranny is the key - but it really does not give me much grief. Dave On Tuesday, March 30, 2004, at 03:46 PM, Kenneth Berg wrote: > Hi: > > I'm a recently-new owner of a 1990 Audi V8 Quattro AT. Am buying set > of pearlescent white wheels and tires, and have surplus, good, plain > alloy wheels mounted with pretty good Toyo tires. New list for wheels > alone is $568 each. Is there a market for used wheels? What could I > expect to get for the set? > > I have gained a lot of new (and expensive) experience with the car, > which I love dearly, but am wondering, do you ever get on top ... > where the car runs, faithfully every day? > > Thanks, > Ken Berg > Mesa, Arizona > (480) 924 1792 > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! From dsaadNOSPAM at icehouse.net Sun Apr 11 00:59:19 2004 From: dsaadNOSPAM at icehouse.net (remove NOSPAM) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:50:51 2004 Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 In-Reply-To: <005801c41e57$87066db0$0e6fa8c0@vrmlt1> Message-ID: Mine does the same. I think you can file off a corner of the plastic gear so it does not hit the handle so much. I just put it in as it was and have had no problems. Dave On Friday, April 9, 2004, at 11:24 AM, Matt Smith wrote: > Thanks for the link. > I believe I've done it right, but it just doesn't fit. I think the kit > is > wrong. The dog leg piece comes with a plastic geared part to it, and > that > plastic geared part hits the door handle lever bar thingy when you > unlock > the doors. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? I've left it like > that > for now as I plan on putting in keyless entry/aftermarket alarm very > soon. > > -Matt > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shawn Head [mailto:s4qtro@bellsouth.net] > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:47 PM > To: 'Matt Smith'; v8@audifans.com > Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 > > > Actually there is a full writeup on chris millers site. > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/ > > the thing you have to make sure of is to get the alarm switch centered > correctly. The gears have to be in the proper position or else when > you > lock the car the alarm will disarm and when you unlock it the alarm > will > arm. > > Shawn Head > > -----Original Message----- > From: Matt Smith [mailto:smittypig24@yahoo.com] > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:27 PM > To: 'Shawn Head' > Subject: RE: [V8] Selling the V8 > > Shawn, > I see you posting often and you seem to know what you're doing. > Sorry to see your selling your beast. You shouldn't have any problem > selling > it. > I had the drivers side door lock problem and replaced the dog leg. > But it's still not right. It works, but when I turn to unlock, the new > piece > is hitting another part of the door handle. Did you do that yourself? > Did > you get the door lock cylinder repair kit? Do you know what I'm talking > about? Any advice for me? Also, putting that spring back on proved to > be > next to impossible so I didn't. Any advice there? > > Thanks. > -Matt > Herndon, VA > 1990 V8Q 94,000 miles > > -----Original Message----- > From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com] On > Behalf Of > Shawn Head > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:15 PM > To: v8@audifans.com > Subject: [V8] Selling the V8 > > > Well guys, that time has come. I am looking to sell the V8 to go to > the > dark side of the turbo crowd. I am looking at getting a 97 A4. > Anyhoo, > here is a website I put together to help advertise the car online. > Don't > laugh, it is my first webpage ever. > > http://home.bellsouth.net/p/pwp-v8qforsale > > Take care guys, > > Shawn Head > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! From baumanns at baldwin-telecom.net Tue Apr 13 23:26:30 2004 From: baumanns at baldwin-telecom.net (Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:50:56 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <002601c421d0$43fb18a0$0100a8c0@your6bvpxyztoq> ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions To: v8@audifans.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 8:36 AM Subject: UFO Brake Conversion Hi all - Sorry to be redundant about a UFO question: What is required for a UFO to Girling conversion? I was told that the actual Girling setup is straight off of the VW Corrado, and as such I could use the Corrado calipers. My question is this - does a guy merely pull the UFO's and remove the UFO style caliper, and bolt-in the G60 caliper? I see Zimmerman rotors on Ebay for pretty cheap, and can also find G60's from a Corrado for reasonable as well. Is there any other modification that is required, such as brake lines, suspension, etc? I do not have a single manual for my V8Q, and as such have no point of reference. Thanks Scott Baumann From dsaadNOSPAM at icehouse.net Sat Apr 17 19:23:41 2004 From: dsaadNOSPAM at icehouse.net (remove NOSPAM) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:51:03 2004 Subject: [V8] Slow Coolant Leak In-Reply-To: <269F8E1A.455A46FC.0004871B@aol.com> Message-ID: <2ED340B8-90C6-11D8-A4AE-000A2796BBBC@icehouse.net> I had a pin hole leak in a heater hose that did that. Leak was under the air filter box. Dave On Saturday, April 17, 2004, at 03:55 PM, CoultL@aol.com wrote: > I have a very slow coolant leak that I can?t locate. The level in my > reservoir will drop about an inch per 500 to 1000 miles. The > expansion tank, lower radiator hose, and both expansion tank hoses are > new. The water pump has about 40k on it. The car never puts out > white smoke. I realize that this could be many different things but I > was wonder if anyone had some insight. I can't hear any hissing or > see any steam after I shut the engine down. I want to fix it before it > gets major and puts me onto the side of the road. Any ideas are > appreciated. Thanks in advance. > > -Justin Lewis > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! From pkosa at aya.yale.edu Mon Apr 19 14:29:05 2004 From: pkosa at aya.yale.edu (Peter Kosa) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:51:08 2004 Subject: [V8] V8 Quattro on for Sale on Ebay Message-ID: <40841A69.9040808@aya.yale.edu> Hi Audifans, I haven't posted here before, so please forgive me if its not the appropriate place to list a car for sale. I've found this site a great resource for the 3 older Audi's I've owned. I just listed my 1990 V8 Quattro (107,400 miles) on Ebay, with no reserve. Its had a tremendous amount of recent work, and is running like new. I shipped it down to the V8Q specialists at Audiconnection in Virginia for all the repairs/maintenance/upgrades, and it now has no quirks at all. Just had the timing belt service done w/water pump and fuel pump replaced. All new brake system, suspension, valve job, cyliinder head resurfacing, headlight upgrade & much more. I will miss driving this car, but with 2 young kids we decided it was time to buy a new family car (we bought an 04 Passat AWD wagon, which at least has a little of the same feel). I am hoping it finds a good home. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2473996715&category=6055&sspagename=WDVW Ebay's not the best place for a high selling price, and right now its well under $1,000, so it may end up being a cheaper option for someone who currently has a V8Q which needs parts or repairs. Thanks, Peter Kosa From rhergut at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 23 03:36:48 2004 From: rhergut at sbcglobal.net (Bob & Missy) Date: Wed Apr 28 19:51:13 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues In-Reply-To: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01C20B1A@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> Message-ID: Sorry about the off-list mail. I actually have sent several messages out to folks that I had intended for the list and was perplexed when they didn't show up on the list. This list works a little differently than the other lists I'm on in that a Reply goes to the author by default, instead of the list. And back to our regularly scheduled program... > -----Original Message----- > From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf > Of Buchholz, Steven > Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 2:29 PM > > ... thanks to all of you who have offered suggestions on and off list! > Funny, with me being as busy as I am I often forget to mention some of the > other things I had intended to note in my initial message ... > > One thing I noticed was that while the test was going on the engine RPMs > were varying noticeably, perhaps 100 RPM peak to peak. I don't > know if the > tech was messing with the throttle while he was running the test, > trying to > hold the idle steady ... or perhaps trying to increase the > emissions ... he > didn't try to get me to pay him to fix it, so I don't think he was > deliberately trying to make it fail ... nonetheless I find that when I try > to hold steady 2500 RPM I can do so just fine from the handle on the > throttle body. Perhaps this was just enough variability to put > the car over > the maximum ... > > Since the car has permanent AWD it was not forced to sit on the > dyno, so the > dynamics of how quickly the engine was throttled ... or whether or not the > car has a manual tranny don't apply. > > ... as to the comment about the second car ... even though this is the car > with the "new" engine, I actually am a bit concerned as to > whether or not it > will pass. Where a whiff of the exhaust on #344 gives no obvious > hydrocarbon smell, I can tell that #2 is running rich for some reason. I > suppose I should figure it out because it is rich enough to noticeably > affect fuel economy ... that said, I have been considering > whether or not it > makes sense to try swapping things like injectors ... but since the car is > close to passing, I'm hoping that some less expensive approaches > will do the > trick ... not that a set of plug wires are that cheap! > > ... the comment about heating up the cats might be a good one, but I am a > bit skeptical because the standard process is that if the > emissions fail on > the initial attempt the program runs the car at 2500 RPM for 3 minutes > before retesting ... > > > > > I have heard it said before on this list that during the > > test, bring it > > up to RPMs slowly, and drop them slowly... Doing it to quickly causes > > it to belch environmental obscenities. > > > > Here in Portland, they have to do the sniffer test (as our DEQ doesn't > > have an AWD dyno) and they have the owner do the stepping on the gas. > > If you are close to passing, this might help. > > > > If only Steven had a second car he could swap parts off of... ;-) > > > > > > You might want to take the V8 out for a spin on the highway > > to make sure > > the cats are fully up to temp. I have heard of this helping. From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Wed Apr 28 20:01:37 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Wed Apr 28 20:01:38 2004 Subject: NOT: [V8] Re: V8 smog blues Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01E8F6F3@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... no apologies required! There is no problem with choosing to respond to a post directly to the person who posts the question ... but also don't hesitate to reply to the list ... ... in response to the quandary on posts not showing up ... as an anti-spam measure, the server only passes messages from those e-mail addresses in its subscriber list to the list directly ... any attempted post from an address that is not in that database gets held in a moderation queue that I have to go through. (I haven't been able to clear through the countless ads for drugs for some time now ... that is why a bunch of messages appeared on the list in short order) What this means is that if you attempt to post from an e-mail account other than the one that is subbed the message will get queued until I disposition it. If you have several accounts you would like to post from but don't necessarily want to receive posts at that address, you can subscribe the address(es) to the list and set the "No Mail" flag. This way your messages will always be passed through to the list. Steve B Audifans V8 Listmeister > > Sorry about the off-list mail. I actually have sent several > messages out to > folks that I had intended for the list and was perplexed when > they didn't > show up on the list. This list works a little differently > than the other > lists I'm on in that a Reply goes to the author by default, > instead of the list. From lorberg at adelphia.net Thu Apr 29 00:59:57 2004 From: lorberg at adelphia.net (Gunter) Date: Thu Apr 29 01:00:19 2004 Subject: [V8] 225/50 series tires on a 15" OEM rim? Message-ID: <007301c42da6$ceeb6190$c402a8c0@VAIO> Anyone have any serious misgivings about mounting 225/50 HR 15 tires on the OEM wheels? Anyone have experience with this setup? I am considering all of my wheel/tire options at the moment. Gunter 1990 V8 Cleveland From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Thu Apr 29 09:18:57 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Thu Apr 29 09:18:58 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA452@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Scott, As far as I know, the G60 designation refers to the model caliper, not the VW model -- though perhaps the "Girling 60" calipers could have actually come on Corrados as well as the Audi 100/200/S4. The OE Factory changeover used the hub and strut assembly from the S4, though I *think* any of the above models will work. I know this is minimal info, but that's all I have. The archives certainly have the rest. HOWEVER, that said, mine already had the swap done when I got the car, and having driven both mine and a friend's with the UFOs, I'd have never made the change. G60s fade like mad and suck in the wet. They just don't belong on a 2-ton car. UFOs might cost more to replace, but with proper braking technique, they should rarely need replacing. My friend's UFO car had over 200k miles and was barely into its second set. -DaveC. -----Original Message----- From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 11:26 PM To: v8@audifans.com Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions To: v8@audifans.com Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 8:36 AM Subject: UFO Brake Conversion Hi all - Sorry to be redundant about a UFO question: What is required for a UFO to Girling conversion? I was told that the actual Girling setup is straight off of the VW Corrado, and as such I could use the Corrado calipers. My question is this - does a guy merely pull the UFO's and remove the UFO style caliper, and bolt-in the G60 caliper? I see Zimmerman rotors on Ebay for pretty cheap, and can also find G60's from a Corrado for reasonable as well. Is there any other modification that is required, such as brake lines, suspension, etc? I do not have a single manual for my V8Q, and as such have no point of reference. Thanks Scott Baumann _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! From BBlake1055 at aol.com Thu Apr 29 12:47:22 2004 From: BBlake1055 at aol.com (BBlake1055@aol.com) Date: Thu Apr 29 12:47:24 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <45E0E1CC.38EB48FD.09D66608@aol.com> Scott, I have to agree with David. The dealer talked me into changing my 90 V8 From the UFO's and the braking seemed to be half of what it was after the conversion. Stick with the UFO's Bob Blake From lundabo at msn.com Thu Apr 29 15:24:50 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Thu Apr 29 15:24:52 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: I feel like I have to throw my $.02 in here. I did the G60 conversion and I must say, at the time, I was glad I did. Whatever merits the UFO's had when new and in good condition, were lost when they warped, which they always did. There are few things that are more annoying than driving in a luxury/sports sedan that shudders everytime you brake. If the warpage is annoying, you can bet the pulsing coming from inconsistent friction is degrading performance as well. IMHO, the UFOs suck! Since changing to G60s with metalmaster pads 60,000 miles ago, I have had no warping issues at all, and I am working on the same pads/rotors. Trust me, I drive my car hard, and I drive it on hills. If they were seriously undersized for the car, they would have worn out tens of thousands of miles ago. For example, the Chrylser Town & Country my wife drove had seriously undersized brakes--they wore out every 10k-15k miles! As for performance, take a look at BIRA. They tested a G60 set up against UFOs and the G60s stopped the car faster. Now, they hem and haw about how the UFO set up was old and tired--what does that mean? The only thing I can imagine is that the rotors were warped--but that's true about practically every set of UFO rotors out there. They warp--the newer ones are better, but they all suffer the same problem. Will the G60s fade more than the UFOs? Probably, but not by much. This is total speculation here, but I would imagine that with that cover on the UFOs, they retain more heat than a g60 set up (hence, the warping problem), so I'm guessing that the difference is not as big as some may claim. Lest anyone acuse me of being a G60 fan, I'm not. I just think they are a better option than the constantly warped UFOs. A better option would be to go to a BIRA set up or a Wilwood set up sold by RPI. BIRA makes a kit for the UFO hubs which will allow you to significantly upgrade the braking performance on the V8 without have to change out the struts etc. Your money goes to buying nice Porsche calipers and new rotors, rather than some rusty crap front suspension off a car in a junk yard. You have to upgrade to a larger rim, but a BIRA brake sytem on a V8 with wider/larger rims would give far better performing car in every way (except snow traction). The RPI/Wilwood set up will out perform the UFOs or G60s as well and allows you to maintain a stock rim, but I believe it only works if you've swapped out the UFO struts etc. for the G60s. I don't know if AudiConnection is still doing it, but they also designed a Wilwood Superlite solution which replaced the UFOs and fit under the stock rims. You might ask Keith if they still offer that solution. In short, there are many options out there now, which were not available when I did my g60 switch. I would explore them if I were you. If brake fade is a major concern, then I don't think you should be looking at either the G60s or the UFOs. If greater performance is not a concern, I would still go to the G60's and kiss the headaches associated with the UFOs bye, bye forever. Just my $.02--take it for what it's worth. Bill Gutierrez 1990 V8 5spd >From: "Coleman, David" >To: "Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions" > >CC: "V8 List (E-mail)" >Subject: RE: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion >Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 09:18:41 -0400 > >Scott, > >As far as I know, the G60 designation refers to the model caliper, not the >VW model -- though perhaps the "Girling 60" calipers could have actually >come on Corrados as well as the Audi 100/200/S4. > >The OE Factory changeover used the hub and strut assembly from the S4, >though I *think* any of the above models will work. I know this is minimal >info, but that's all I have. The archives certainly have the rest. > >HOWEVER, that said, mine already had the swap done when I got the car, and >having driven both mine and a friend's with the UFOs, I'd have never made >the change. G60s fade like mad and suck in the wet. They just don't >belong on a 2-ton car. UFOs might cost more to replace, but with proper >braking technique, they should rarely need replacing. My friend's UFO car >had over 200k miles and was barely into its second set. > >-DaveC. > > >-----Original Message----- >From: v8-bounces@audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces@audifans.com]On Behalf >Of Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions >Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 11:26 PM >To: v8@audifans.com >Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Scott Baumann / Progressive Technology Solutions >To: v8@audifans.com >Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2004 8:36 AM >Subject: UFO Brake Conversion > > >Hi all - >Sorry to be redundant about a UFO question: > >What is required for a UFO to Girling conversion? I was told that the >actual Girling setup is straight off of the >VW Corrado, and as such I could use the Corrado calipers. My question is >this - does a guy merely pull the UFO's and remove the UFO style caliper, >and bolt-in the G60 caliper? I see Zimmerman rotors on Ebay for pretty >cheap, and can also find G60's from a Corrado for reasonable as well. Is >there any other modification that is required, such as brake lines, >suspension, etc? I do not have a single manual for my V8Q, and as such >have no point of reference. > >Thanks >Scott Baumann >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Lose those love handles! MSN Fitness shows you two moves to slim your waist. http://fitness.msn.com/articles/feeds/article.aspx?dept=exercise&article=et_pv_030104_lovehandles From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Thu Apr 29 15:51:34 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Thu Apr 29 15:51:34 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F89834354@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> > Whatever merits the UFO's had when new and in good condition, > were lost when > they warped, which they always did. Respectfully, perhaps yours "always" did, but "never" is in fact the appropriate term for my experience. I think you're overgeneralizing something too subjective -- driving technique, conditions, and geography. Maybe more conducive to European roads, UFOs in the US were a defeat snatched from the hands of victory. The majority of drivers here don't have the intimate communication with the car that UFOs were designed to incorporate. Not to get all zen or whatever. That said, I agree completely re: BIRA setup. I ditched my dogcrap G60s for their 996-equipped System 3 and I saw a drastic difference, in every circumstance from traffic jams to threshold braking. Scott, I'd gladly give you my old G60 calipers, but one caveat of converting to BIRA is you can't sell the car or equipment without the buyer joining the association. So I keep these nasty paperweights bonking around my garage just in case. I last heard Audiconnection's Wilwood application has been shelved -- probably due to Wilwood's temperamental street-use. Dunno. -DaveC. From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Thu Apr 29 16:17:20 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Thu Apr 29 16:17:21 2004 Subject: [V8] early alternator diagnosis Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA461@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Driving along last night (on the way to the hospital of all places) when the battery light comes on in the early warning display. Few miles later the anti-lock light comes on. Lights start getting dim, power steering gets heavy. Lady with a baby in the right seat, so I just pushed on. As expected, it wouldn't start after shutting it off. Two hours later, it started back up, but still with barely any voltage (30-second windows, e.g.). Made it the five miles back home thankfully. Gotta figure the alt stopped charging. I just moved a couple weeks ago, and my manual (and computer) are still packed away, so I'm going in blind. Does anyone have any must-know BTDTs on the alternator R&R? Thanks, DaveC. From DasWolfen at aol.com Thu Apr 29 17:05:59 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Thu Apr 29 17:06:00 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: In a message dated 4/29/04 3:52:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, David.Coleman@blackrock.com writes: > I last heard Audiconnection's Wilwood application has been shelved -- > probably due to Wilwood's temperamental street-use. Nope....lack of interest. Both test vehicles are still wearing their Superlite II's (over two years on each, winters in Northern VA, Philly, and Montana) with nary a problem.....other than a certain lister wearing out the first set of rotors. My experience/opinion of UFO's are the opposite of Bill's. I drove my UFO equipped V8 about as hard as you can drive a car on public roads and it made it to 159k on the original rotors. How hard is that? Well the last two years of its life I was going through pads at a rate of 2-3 sets a year. I warped them on a regular basis and an "Italian tuneup" never failed to straighten them again. The absolute best G60 setup I've tried is on a customers 93 S4. Crossdrilled Zimmermans, Stainless lines, Hawk pads. They are fantastic...for exactly 1/2 of my favorite ess curve, the second half of that ess becomes an excersize in terror in every G60 car I've taken through it at speed. In comparision my UFO V8 would stand on its nose in each half of that ess with no fade at all. I could get 20 or 30 miles into a good hard mountian run chasing Mark W's 91 5 spd before fade became an issue. Keith From dsaad at icehouse.net Thu Apr 29 17:26:53 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Thu Apr 29 17:26:54 2004 Subject: [V8] early alternator diagnosis In-Reply-To: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA461@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> References: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA461@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Message-ID: <1083274045.4091733d6009a@webmail.icehouse.net> It is a straight forward job - take it off fix it put it back on You probably oughta do the usual double check of fuses, cable connections, etc but R&R of the alt is basically: - remove batt ground cable - Remove belly pan - I remove the accessory belt shock damper outer bolt (to free up one end) because it is easy and it makes the rest of the dealings with belt much easier. - Using a 13mm socket or wrench, de-tension the belt and lock in place with a pin such as a 9/32 drill shank. The location of the locking hole is hard to describe but while holding the tensioner compressed, you can slide the drill shank along the side of the tensioner bracket and it will fall into the hole. Take a good look at the belt routing - it is wierd. - remove the remaining wires and bolts from the alternator and you are done. If you are going to DIY the alt repair: The brushes are not easily replaceable. You can do it if you find the right size and can cut the old ones out and solder in the new. Otherwise just replace the voltage regulator. You can file down an over sized brush very easily. This is way cheap (like $0.50 for both brushes) but takes time. Finding the exact brush will be near impossible. Get good quality bearings designed for this purpose. They are usually specified as electric motor grade. These usually have more balls, better seals and grease. Clean up the slip rings with a little steel wool and that is it. If you do not have any winding shorts or diode problems then you are good as new. I would bring it to a shop with a good tester to make sure it is working OK befor I put it back in. If you do have diode problems, they are replaceable. If you have winding problems, you probably just want to buy a remanufactured unit. Neither of these is a common problem. Dave Quoting "Coleman, David" : > Driving along last night (on the way to the hospital of all places) when > the battery light comes on in the early warning display. Few miles > later the anti-lock light comes on. Lights start getting dim, power > steering gets heavy. Lady with a baby in the right seat, so I just > pushed on. As expected, it wouldn't start after shutting it off. > > Two hours later, it started back up, but still with barely any voltage > (30-second windows, e.g.). Made it the five miles back home thankfully. > > Gotta figure the alt stopped charging. I just moved a couple weeks ago, > and my manual (and computer) are still packed away, so I'm going in > blind. Does anyone have any must-know BTDTs on the alternator R&R? > > Thanks, > DaveC. > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From ekellock at adelphia.net Thu Apr 29 17:37:26 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Thu Apr 29 17:37:27 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <20040429213724.PUND21898.mta11.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In general, what do any of you do when you perform this procedure? Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that from before with the stock pads that were installed by the dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? Lastly, I am considering signing up for the Audi Club event at 2nd Creek in Denver next month. I feel that I should do something about my brakes first though. They'll be fine for many more street miles, but they may not be quite confidence inspriing for a track event. I was thinking I would get some better pads, like Mintex Red Box (I believe the rears are due for at least pads as well) and I thought it might be a good time to replace the brake lines all around. I thought I would just go with stock rubber lines and save the stainless steel braided ones for a later performance upgrade, if I choose to do someday. What do y'all think? Thanks, Ed ============================================================ From: DasWolfen@aol.com Date: 2004/04/29 Thu PM 03:05:50 MDT To: David.Coleman@blackrock.com, lundabo@msn.com, baumanns@baldwin-telecom.net, v8@audifans.com Subject: Re: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion In a message dated 4/29/04 3:52:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, David.Coleman@blackrock.com writes: > I last heard Audiconnection's Wilwood application has been shelved -- > probably due to Wilwood's temperamental street-use. Nope....lack of interest. Both test vehicles are still wearing their Superlite II's (over two years on each, winters in Northern VA, Philly, and Montana) with nary a problem.....other than a certain lister wearing out the first set of rotors. My experience/opinion of UFO's are the opposite of Bill's. I drove my UFO equipped V8 about as hard as you can drive a car on public roads and it made it to 159k on the original rotors. How hard is that? Well the last two years of its life I was going through pads at a rate of 2-3 sets a year. I warped them on a regular basis and an "Italian tuneup" never failed to straighten them again. The absolute best G60 setup I've tried is on a customers 93 S4. Crossdrilled Zimmermans, Stainless lines, Hawk pads. They are fantastic...for exactly 1/2 of my favorite ess curve, the second half of that ess becomes an excersize in terror in every G60 car I've taken through it at speed. In comparision my UFO V8 would stand on its nose in each half of that ess with no fade at all. I could get 20 or 30 miles into a good hard mountian run chasing Mark W's 91 5 spd before fade became an issue. Keith _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From david at styletrack401k.com Thu Apr 29 18:03:54 2004 From: david at styletrack401k.com (David Lyddall) Date: Thu Apr 29 18:03:56 2004 Subject: [V8] 225/50 series tires on a 15" OEM rim? Message-ID: Gunter - I run 225/60's on the stock rim - If I remember right that gives the same diameter as the 215/65 that are stock. Certainly find a wider selection of tires at that size. I've been running that for about 3 years. I remember thinking that the car ran considerably better after the change but that may have been because the PO had Les Schwabb 'H' rated tires on there before. Dave StyleTrack Investment Advisors Phone: (801) 305 1026 Toll free: (888) 704 401k Fax: (530) 303 0023 From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Apr 29 20:04:55 2004 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Apr 29 20:04:56 2004 Subject: [V8] early alternator diagnosis In-Reply-To: <1083274045.4091733d6009a@webmail.icehouse.net> References: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA461@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F899AA461@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> Message-ID: <4.1.20040429195936.00b61740@traverse.com> At 02:27 PM 4/29/2004 -0700, dsaad@icehouse.net wrote: > If you have winding >problems, you probably just want to buy a remanufactured unit. Neither of >these >is a common problem. It's probably accurate that V8 alternators, protected by the belly pan, don't have the same winding problems as the rest of Audi's models with the alternator hanging down there for every puddle,slush pile to splash onto it. The Bosch certified shop that rebuilt my 200q20v's alternator showed me my broken winding wires that had welded themselves to the case because they'd get wet frequently. Their overhaul was still cheaper than buying a rebuilt, and who knows how the rebuilt was put together???? From lundabo at msn.com Thu Apr 29 20:22:28 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Thu Apr 29 20:22:30 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: Fair enough. I guess I based my opinion on my experience of going through 3 sets of new rotors over the first 120,000 miles on the car because the local dealer and my local shop reported that everyone was having these problems (which is why Audi started doing the swap for free) and there was nothing that could be done to turn the rotor. I'ld like to know what speed Keith was doing his "Italian Tuneups" from, but hard stops from 60 mph weren't doing it for me. If I hadn't had all the problems with my UFOs, I probably would not have switched them out, because they did stop the car well when they weren't straight. Your point on BIRA is well taken, David, but isn't there still some shop affiliated with BIRA that will sell the whole package and thus enable the purchaser to avoid the liability limiting subterfuge of BIRA? Bill >From: "Coleman, David" >To: "William Gutierrez" , , > >Subject: RE: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion >Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 15:51:17 -0400 > > > Whatever merits the UFO's had when new and in good condition, > > were lost when > > they warped, which they always did. > >Respectfully, perhaps yours "always" did, but "never" is in fact the >appropriate term for my experience. I think you're overgeneralizing >something too subjective -- driving technique, conditions, and geography. >Maybe more conducive to European roads, UFOs in the US were a defeat >snatched from the hands of victory. The majority of drivers here don't >have the intimate communication with the car that UFOs were designed to >incorporate. Not to get all zen or whatever. > >That said, I agree completely re: BIRA setup. I ditched my dogcrap G60s >for their 996-equipped System 3 and I saw a drastic difference, in every >circumstance from traffic jams to threshold braking. Scott, I'd gladly >give you my old G60 calipers, but one caveat of converting to BIRA is you >can't sell the car or equipment without the buyer joining the association. >So I keep these nasty paperweights bonking around my garage just in case. > >I last heard Audiconnection's Wilwood application has been shelved -- >probably due to Wilwood's temperamental street-use. Dunno. > >-DaveC. _________________________________________________________________ >From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring Travel Guide! http://special.msn.com/local/springtravel.armx From lundabo at msn.com Thu Apr 29 20:30:30 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Thu Apr 29 20:30:31 2004 Subject: [V8] 225/50 series tires on a 15" OEM rim? Message-ID: I'm not sure if some cars came with a 215/65 option, but mine came with 215/60 and that's the spec in my owner's manual. 225/60's work, and that's what I have on my car, but they will slow your speedometer by almost 2% if your car came stock with the 215/60s. On my car, I think a 215/65 would probably rub the wheel wells in turns. Cheers. Bill Gutierrez 1990 V8 Quattro >From: "David Lyddall" >To: >Subject: [V8] 225/50 series tires on a 15" OEM rim? >Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 16:03:40 -0600 > >Gunter - I run 225/60's on the stock rim - If I remember right that gives >the same diameter as the 215/65 that are stock. > > > >Certainly find a wider selection of tires at that size. I've been running >that for about 3 years. I remember thinking that the car ran considerably >better after the change but that may have been because the PO had Les >Schwabb 'H' rated tires on there before. > > > >Dave > > > >StyleTrack Investment Advisors > > Phone: (801) 305 1026 > > Toll free: (888) 704 401k > > Fax: (530) 303 0023 > > > >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/ From v8q at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 29 20:50:11 2004 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Thu Apr 29 20:50:13 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion References: Message-ID: <4091A33C.2070206@bellsouth.net> 90-120mph works fine. Make sure no one is trailing... :-) William Gutierrez wrote: > Fair enough. I guess I based my opinion on my experience of going > through 3 sets of new rotors over the first 120,000 miles on the car > because the local dealer and my local shop reported that everyone was > having these problems (which is why Audi started doing the swap for > free) and there was nothing that could be done to turn the rotor. > I'ld like to know what speed Keith was doing his "Italian Tuneups" > from, but hard stops from 60 mph weren't doing it for me. If I hadn't > had all the problems with my UFOs, I probably would not have switched > them out, because they did stop the car well when they weren't straight. > > Your point on BIRA is well taken, David, but isn't there still some > shop affiliated with BIRA that will sell the whole package and thus > enable the purchaser to avoid the liability limiting subterfuge of BIRA? > > Bill > >> From: "Coleman, David" >> To: "William Gutierrez" , >> , >> Subject: RE: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion >> Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 15:51:17 -0400 >> >> > Whatever merits the UFO's had when new and in good condition, >> > were lost when >> > they warped, which they always did. >> >> Respectfully, perhaps yours "always" did, but "never" is in fact the >> appropriate term for my experience. I think you're overgeneralizing >> something too subjective -- driving technique, conditions, and >> geography. Maybe more conducive to European roads, UFOs in the US >> were a defeat snatched from the hands of victory. The majority of >> drivers here don't have the intimate communication with the car that >> UFOs were designed to incorporate. Not to get all zen or whatever. >> >> That said, I agree completely re: BIRA setup. I ditched my dogcrap >> G60s for their 996-equipped System 3 and I saw a drastic difference, >> in every circumstance from traffic jams to threshold braking. Scott, >> I'd gladly give you my old G60 calipers, but one caveat of converting >> to BIRA is you can't sell the car or equipment without the buyer >> joining the association. So I keep these nasty paperweights bonking >> around my garage just in case. >> >> I last heard Audiconnection's Wilwood application has been shelved -- >> probably due to Wilwood's temperamental street-use. Dunno. >> >> -DaveC. > > > _________________________________________________________________ > >> From must-see cities to the best beaches, plan a getaway with the Spring > > Travel Guide! http://special.msn.com/local/springtravel.armx > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans V8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com > Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 > Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all > contributions welcome! > From DasWolfen at aol.com Thu Apr 29 20:58:42 2004 From: DasWolfen at aol.com (DasWolfen@aol.com) Date: Thu Apr 29 20:58:43 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: > I'ld like to know what speed Keith > was doing his "Italian Tuneups" from, but hard stops from 60 mph weren't > doing it for me. Really really fast. >=0) You have to get the rotors extremely hot, from 60 you'd have to do 3 or 4 attempts in rapid succession to even get close. From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Thu Apr 29 21:22:06 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Apr 29 21:22:09 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01E8F9A5@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... that is too bad ... shoot, since you've got the details all worked out you should leave it on the page! I was thinking about responding as others have on the G-60 conversion and point out other preferable alternatives but didn't see the AudiConnection product offered ... ... on the BIRA thing, there was a place called QRS that was trying to package BIRA kits into turn-key solutions ... but I checked the website, which says that they've retired and moved on to other things ... checking the BIRA site, it appears that they never did a direct UFO conversion ... ... I *did* see the write-up on the 5-speed conversion there ... thanks for documenting it in that way! It was also a good opportunity to see what the person on the other end of the phone/computer actually looks like! :-) Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia (USA) ... two separate sets of UFOs ... ne'er a whit of "warping" from either ... I did have to replace the rotors on #344, but that was because they had worn down to minimum thickness ... I've driven V8s with the factory conversion too and to my foot there is a definite reduction in brake pedal feel/effectiveness over the UFO ... granted, the pads may have contributed to the difference ... > > Nope....lack of interest. Both test vehicles are still wearing their > Superlite II's (over two years on each, winters in Northern > VA, Philly, and Montana) > with nary a problem.....other than a certain lister wearing > out the first set of rotors. From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Thu Apr 29 21:26:11 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Apr 29 21:26:12 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01E8F9A7@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... as I read my post I realized that it got a bit confusing with the added edits ... originally it only had the first and last paragraphs ... i.e. the notes on the 5-speed conversion are on the www.audiconnection.com site ... http://www.audiconnection.com/5-speed_conversion.htm ... to be exact. Thanks again Keith! Steve > > ... I *did* see the write-up on the 5-speed conversion there ... thanks for > documenting it in that way! It was also a good opportunity to see what the > person on the other end of the phone/computer actually looks like! :-) From QuickAudi at aol.com Fri Apr 30 01:40:51 2004 From: QuickAudi at aol.com (QuickAudi@aol.com) Date: Fri Apr 30 01:40:53 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <6AE3F81E.016B02B0.028D39B4@aol.com> FWIW, I wanted to weigh in with a quick response. I would have actually said that I wanted to changed from UFOs to a BIRA (not G60) system, but I might stay with the UFOs. I had been thinking that they were taking too long to slow my car, but today I made her stand on her nose. I'd been driving on a country road back to a park at a high rate of speed and was going to throw it into a drift to turn into the park when I saw a truck coming up to pull out of said park. Well, I pressed the brake pedal down and she definitely stopped. I think that is a thing that you have to know, at least with my V8: slamming on the brakes is a waste; press your foot to the floor. I don't know why it works better, but it does. It might have something to do with the "twisting" of the UFO part of the rotor or something, but maybe the initial bite helps to stabilize it, and when you press (hard!) it stops (hard!!). Again, maybe this is my imagination, but that seems to be her manner. Joel '90 V8q '86 5kcstq From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Fri Apr 30 09:34:17 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Fri Apr 30 09:34:32 2004 Subject: [V8] Fw: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F89834355@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> > ... on the BIRA thing, there was a place called QRS that was trying to > package BIRA kits into turn-key solutions ... but I checked > the website, > which says that they've retired and moved on to other things Just this past week there was an issue where a BIRA-equipped car was sold w/out the necessary paperwork being completed. The buyer contacted BIRA for info on what the heck brakes he had (their website is stamped on the bracket), and a small can o' worms was opened... essentially a thread on the legal and moral ramifications of not sticking to your contracted word, peppered with comments as to the simplicity of printing out a single form. Anyway, all was fine and the new buyer joined up. QRS is still doing providing brake lines as needed, but there is no one who's willing to buck up a few thou to keep BIRA brackets in stock, especially since the profit margin is zero. As a post script -- I wonder if Audiconnection might do well to incorporate such an agreement into any brake conversions it does too. Not to promote frivolty, but if you don't cover your butt, it's open season... -dc From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 30 10:17:09 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 30 10:17:11 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <20040430141707.WSTL26615.mta9.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In general, what do any of you do when you perform this procedure? Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that from before with the stock pads that were installed by the dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? Lastly, I am considering signing up for the Audi Club event at 2nd Creek in Denver next month. I feel that I should do something about my brakes first though. They'll be fine or many more street miles, but they may not be quite confidence inspriing for a track event. I was thinking I would get some better pads, like Mintex Red Box (I believe the rears are due for at least pads as well) and I thought it might be a good time to replace the brake lines all around. I thought I would just go with stock rubber lines and save the stainless steel braided ones for a later performance upgrade, if I choose to do someday. What do y'all think? Thanks, Ed From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Apr 30 10:42:59 2004 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Fri Apr 30 10:43:00 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes In-Reply-To: <20040430141707.WSTL26615.mta9.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.n et> Message-ID: <4.1.20040430103957.00b608d8@traverse.com> I've unwarped the UFOs with half a dozen heavy stops from about 80 mph followed by travel without using the brakes for several miles so they can cool down. I doubt the pad material plays a part in warpage. It's sitting at a light after the brakes are hot with the pads held against the rotors in one spot. At 08:17 AM 4/30/2004 -0600, Ed Kellock wrote: >I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In >general, what do any of you do when you perform this >procedure? > >Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a >very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that >from before with the stock pads that were installed by the >dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice >affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? > From David.Coleman at blackrock.com Fri Apr 30 10:56:19 2004 From: David.Coleman at blackrock.com (Coleman, David) Date: Fri Apr 30 10:56:20 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <37F0076922DCB14384BA5D7C013C5F89834356@BRDEL-EXCH02.na.blkint.com> > Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a > very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that > from before with the stock pads that were installed by the > dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice > affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? I'd think the less heat dissipation the rotor has to do the better to. Pads might help by disintegrating (and spitting brake dust all over the place) more rapidly. The porsche pads on my car spray lots of dust and wear out pretty quickly, compared to the Raybestos hockey pucks in the pickup. Same w/ the Hawk pads on my scirocco race car. If you're heading to the track, find a set of Hawk street/track compound pads (black compound?). I get mine from Strano in PA. Dunno if available for UFOs, and they ain't cheap. But lord o mighty do they work. > brake lines all around. I thought I would just go with > stock rubber lines and save the stainless steel braided > ones for a later performance upgrade, if I choose to do > someday. If you're replacing the lines, fergodssake put SS lines in. Do a complete bleeding. And no pepboys special brake fluid. Castrol LMA as a minimum. Again w/ the track thing, weird stuff happens out there -- high braking pressure can be much more frequent and violent than you'd ever use on the street, and rubber lines are more subject to deformation and cuts. Piece of mind if nothing else. Save the x-drilled zimmermans and adjustable bias for your next upgrade ;-] -dc From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 30 12:30:37 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 30 12:30:37 2004 Subject: [V8] Re: UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01E8FA69@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... my guess is that it is a sign that your brake pressure accumulator is getting weak. Does the brake warning light on the dash come on when you "slam on" the brakes? Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia > saw a truck coming up to pull out of said park. Well, I > pressed the brake pedal down and she definitely stopped. I > think that is a thing that you have to know, at least with my > V8: slamming on the brakes is a waste; press your foot to the > floor. I don't know why it works better, but it does. It From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Fri Apr 30 12:39:32 2004 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Fri Apr 30 12:39:51 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <9E09E292BCEAA241A70F52F1A4B88D5F01E8FA74@ca1xpr05-backup.kla-tencor.com> ... it might also be interesting to keep track on "warpage" based on AT vs. MT (I used to think that the UFO problem was correlated to this, but all 200Q20Vs have MTs and we see reports of problems from folks with MT-equipped cars) and whether or not the belly pan is installed. The belly pan includes the brake cooling ducts. My data point is somewhat inconclusive ... I have 2 MT cars, for the most part one has the pan installed and the other does not (although there have been time when both did and others when neither did). As reported earlier I've never had an issue with brake pulsation on either car ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia > > I've unwarped the UFOs with half a dozen heavy stops from about 80 mph > followed by travel without using the brakes for several miles > so they can > cool down. I doubt the pad material plays a part in warpage. It's > sitting at a light after the brakes are hot with the pads > held against the > rotors in one spot. > > > At 08:17 AM 4/30/2004 -0600, Ed Kellock wrote: > >I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In > >general, what do any of you do when you perform this > >procedure? > > > >Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a > >very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that > >from before with the stock pads that were installed by the > >dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice > >affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 30 12:47:39 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 30 12:47:40 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <20040430164737.JPPS8065.mta10.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> Thanks Kneale. I do try to remember to come to a stop a bit early at lights and then creep forward, but I'm not always that good about remembering this. Plus it's not as convenient to do with a manual transmission. I noticed the other day when I had to jump on the brakes hard to avoid yet another idiot CO SUV driver making a blind lane change, that afterwards in the next couple of normal stops there was more wheel wiggle than usual. I don't think the emergency brake application was enough to heat the brakes appreciably and I did not come to a full stop immediately afterwards either. But after the next couple of stops, it was back to normal, which is about nil, except for some uneven deceleration right before a full stop which is about all I ever notice. I suppose this could be the rears I guess. Anyway, this weekend I'm going to try to find some time and enough road to do perform the IBT procedure. Another lister has suggested 3 hard brake app's from 110 to 75. Depending on which road I can find to do the IBT, I will choose one or the other of the methods. Ed ============================================================ From: Kneale Brownson Date: 2004/04/30 Fri AM 08:43:26 MDT To: ekellock@adelphia.net, Subject: Re: [V8] UFO brakes I've unwarped the UFOs with half a dozen heavy stops from about 80 mph followed by travel without using the brakes for several miles so they can cool down. I doubt the pad material plays a part in warpage. It's sitting at a light after the brakes are hot with the pads held against the rotors in one spot. At 08:17 AM 4/30/2004 -0600, Ed Kellock wrote: >I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In >general, what do any of you do when you perform this >procedure? > >Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a >very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that >from before with the stock pads that were installed by the >dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice >affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? > ============================================================ From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 30 12:53:56 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 30 12:53:57 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <20040430165353.HNUO21898.mta11.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I have considered the belly pan factor too because mine was not attached for at least 3 years. This covers the time when I was commuting 30 miles each way between 8500 and 6000 feet in elevation. My belly pan is not back on so with the cooling ducts present, the italian tune-up will hopefully be more effective. ============================================================ From: "Buchholz, Steven" Date: 2004/04/30 Fri AM 10:39:21 MDT To: "'v8@audifans.com'" Subject: RE: [V8] UFO brakes ... it might also be interesting to keep track on "warpage" based on AT vs. MT (I used to think that the UFO problem was correlated to this, but all 200Q20Vs have MTs and we see reports of problems from folks with MT-equipped cars) and whether or not the belly pan is installed. The belly pan includes the brake cooling ducts. My data point is somewhat inconclusive ... I have 2 MT cars, for the most part one has the pan installed and the other does not (although there have been time when both did and others when neither did). As reported earlier I've never had an issue with brake pulsation on either car ... Steve B San Jos?, Kaleefohnia > > I've unwarped the UFOs with half a dozen heavy stops from about 80 mph > followed by travel without using the brakes for several miles > so they can > cool down. I doubt the pad material plays a part in warpage. It's > sitting at a light after the brakes are hot with the pads > held against the > rotors in one spot. > > > At 08:17 AM 4/30/2004 -0600, Ed Kellock wrote: > >I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In > >general, what do any of you do when you perform this > >procedure? > > > >Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a > >very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that > >from before with the stock pads that were installed by the > >dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice > >affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 30 12:58:57 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 30 12:58:57 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <20040430165855.JVPV8065.mta10.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> Resend. Ignore if you've already waded through... Reason: I usually forget to reformat my posts before sending. On some mail clients, each paragraph is represented as one long line. Since I tend to be verbose, I'm sure some readers don't bother with them. I know I sometimes do not when I'm on the receiving end. The crummy part is that though my mail client sends that way, it represents my own posts by breaking them up into readable lines. ============================================================ From: Ed Kellock Date: 2004/04/30 Fri AM 10:47:37 MDT To: Subject: Re: [V8] UFO brakes Thanks Kneale. I do try to remember to come to a stop a bit early at lights and then creep forward, but I'm not always that good about remembering this. Plus it's not as convenient to do with a manual transmission. I noticed the other day when I had to jump on the brakes hard to avoid yet another idiot CO SUV driver making a blind lane change, that afterwards in the next couple of normal stops there was more wheel wiggle than usual. I don't think the emergency brake application was enough to heat the brakes appreciably and I did not come to a full stop immediately afterwards either. But after the next couple of stops, it was back to normal, which is about nil, except for some uneven deceleration right before a full stop which is about all I ever notice. I suppose this could be the rears I guess. Anyway, this weekend I'm going to try to find some time and enough road to do perform the IBT procedure. Another lister has suggested 3 hard brake app's from 110 to 75. Depending on which road I can find to do the IBT, I will choose one or the other of the methods. Ed ============================================================ From: Kneale Brownson Date: 2004/04/30 Fri AM 08:43:26 MDT To: ekellock@adelphia.net, Subject: Re: [V8] UFO brakes I've unwarped the UFOs with half a dozen heavy stops from about 80 mph followed by travel without using the brakes for several miles so they can cool down. I doubt the pad material plays a part in warpage. It's sitting at a light after the brakes are hot with the pads held against the rotors in one spot. At 08:17 AM 4/30/2004 -0600, Ed Kellock wrote: >I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In >general, what do any of you do when you perform this >procedure? > >Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a >very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that >from before with the stock pads that were installed by the >dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice >affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? > ============================================================ _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From dsaad at icehouse.net Fri Apr 30 13:03:44 2004 From: dsaad at icehouse.net (dsaad@icehouse.net) Date: Fri Apr 30 13:03:46 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes In-Reply-To: <20040430164737.JPPS8065.mta10.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> References: <20040430164737.JPPS8065.mta10.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1083344657.4092871111ec2@webmail.icehouse.net> Quoting Ed Kellock : I am sure he just had to switch his smoke to the other hand while he redialed the phone... > > I noticed the other day when I had to jump on the brakes hard to avoid > yet another idiot CO SUV driver making a blind lane change, I have always had this to some degree. It seems less noticable ever since I put on new Mintex Red Box pads over my old worn down UFO rotors. The Mintex pads do squeak quite a bit though. I always thought the pad/rotor combo somehow had a "sticky spot" because there is no pedal pulsation - just slightly un-even braking at very slow speeds. > deceleration right before a full stop which is about all I ever notice. > I suppose this could be the rears I guess. > From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 30 13:13:13 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 30 13:13:15 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <20040430171311.OQW26615.mta9.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> In my experience, if I have uneven braking at low speed and no pulsation in the steering wheel, then it's been the rear rotors. Mine probably need some attention too. Since I've owned it, the only brake work I've done was to install new front pads. ============================================================ From: Date: 2004/04/30 Fri AM 11:04:17 MDT To: Subject: Re: [V8] UFO brakes Quoting Ed Kellock : I am sure he just had to switch his smoke to the other hand while he redialed the phone... > > I noticed the other day when I had to jump on the brakes hard to avoid > yet another idiot CO SUV driver making a blind lane change, I have always had this to some degree. It seems less noticable ever since I put on new Mintex Red Box pads over my old worn down UFO rotors. The Mintex pads do squeak quite a bit though. I always thought the pad/rotor combo somehow had a "sticky spot" because there is no pedal pulsation - just slightly un-even braking at very slow speeds. > deceleration right before a full stop which is about all I ever notice. > I suppose this could be the rears I guess. > _______________________________________________ Audifans V8 mailing list Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all contributions welcome! ============================================================ From ekellock at adelphia.net Fri Apr 30 13:22:47 2004 From: ekellock at adelphia.net (Ed Kellock) Date: Fri Apr 30 13:22:48 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: <20040430172246.KHEQ8065.mta10.adelphia.net@mail.adelphia.net> I've heard some negative about SS brake lines, but not enough to not consider them. How much of a cost differential is there between SS and stock rubber lines? I assumed that it was significant. Yeah, Castrol LMA is baseline, but lately I've been using Valvoline synth brake juice. In my 200q 2 years ago, I had no problem at 2nd Creek with boiled fluid, but then I don't charge the corners that hard either. I like to leave a bit more margin of error at that end of the spectrum. Besides is a driver's school, not competition. ;-) ============================================================ From: "Coleman, David" Date: 2004/04/30 Fri AM 08:55:58 MDT To: , Subject: RE: [V8] UFO brakes > Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a > very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that > from before with the stock pads that were installed by the > dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice > affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? I'd think the less heat dissipation the rotor has to do the better to. Pads might help by disintegrating (and spitting brake dust all over the place) more rapidly. The porsche pads on my car spray lots of dust and wear out pretty quickly, compared to the Raybestos hockey pucks in the pickup. Same w/ the Hawk pads on my scirocco race car. If you're heading to the track, find a set of Hawk street/track compound pads (black compound?). I get mine from Strano in PA. Dunno if available for UFOs, and they ain't cheap. But lord o mighty do they work. > brake lines all around. I thought I would just go with > stock rubber lines and save the stainless steel braided > ones for a later performance upgrade, if I choose to do > someday. If you're replacing the lines, fergodssake put SS lines in. Do a complete bleeding. And no pepboys special brake fluid. Castrol LMA as a minimum. Again w/ the track thing, weird stuff happens out there -- high braking pressure can be much more frequent and violent than you'd ever use on the street, and rubber lines are more subject to deformation and cuts. Piece of mind if nothing else. Save the x-drilled zimmermans and adjustable bias for your next upgrade ;-] -dc ============================================================ From lundabo at msn.com Fri Apr 30 15:21:20 2004 From: lundabo at msn.com (William Gutierrez) Date: Fri Apr 30 15:21:21 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO brakes Message-ID: I had warpage on three sets of rotors. MT with belly pan at all times. Cheers Bill 1990 V8 5spd (with belly pan) >From: "Buchholz, Steven" >To: "'v8@audifans.com'" >Subject: RE: [V8] UFO brakes >Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2004 09:39:21 -0700 > >... it might also be interesting to keep track on "warpage" based on AT vs. >MT (I used to think that the UFO problem was correlated to this, but all >200Q20Vs have MTs and we see reports of problems from folks with >MT-equipped >cars) and whether or not the belly pan is installed. The belly pan >includes >the brake cooling ducts. My data point is somewhat inconclusive ... I have >2 MT cars, for the most part one has the pan installed and the other does >not (although there have been time when both did and others when neither >did). As reported earlier I've never had an issue with brake pulsation on >either car ... > >Steve B >San José, Kaleefohnia > > > > I've unwarped the UFOs with half a dozen heavy stops from about 80 mph > > followed by travel without using the brakes for several miles > > so they can > > cool down. I doubt the pad material plays a part in warpage. It's > > sitting at a light after the brakes are hot with the pads > > held against the > > rotors in one spot. > > > > > > At 08:17 AM 4/30/2004 -0600, Ed Kellock wrote: > > >I need to perform the Italian brake tune-up on mine. In > > >general, what do any of you do when you perform this > > >procedure? > > > > > >Also, I have the cheapo pads from Advance Auto. I have a > > >very slight problem with warpage, but I don't recall that > > >from before with the stock pads that were installed by the > > >dealer back before I bought the car. Would pad choice > > >affect the likelihood of warpage in any way? >_______________________________________________ >Audifans V8 mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:V8@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 >Have an Audi V8 question? Check the Audifans Knowledgebase! >http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8 >Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all >contributions welcome! _________________________________________________________________ Stop worrying about overloading your inbox - get MSN Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=hotmail/es2&ST=1/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/ From sfevold at wwdb.org Fri Apr 30 18:49:05 2004 From: sfevold at wwdb.org (SFevold) Date: Fri Apr 30 18:49:05 2004 Subject: [V8] Overheating problem - ref. Keith's words of wisdom -> Where is G82? Message-ID: (This was the "Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity" thread) Paul, thanks for the reposting of Keith's words of wisdom. Is the G82 sensor also labeled G2 on item 16 on page 28-10-1 of the manual? There's also a reference to an sensor on the rear of the right head G62. I'm thinking that I either have a bad G83 and/or a clogged radiator. Is there any recommendations for a replacement radiator? OE or aftermarket? Thanks, Steve 90 V8 running a bit warm ever since this diagnosis was posted. Message: 1 Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2004 10:50:44 -0400 From: "Intemann, Paul (GEAE)" Subject: RE: [V8] Overheating problem - A tribute to Audi engineering and my own stupidity To: "'v8@audifans.com'" Message-ID: <060993FC976B9E45A9708916A037C85901BCC8C6@bwam02msx.ae.ge.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Think this is the post that Bob is referring to ... Keith, I hope you don't mind my re-posting your words-of-wisdom below: I figure I better explain the circuit fully to eliminate any confusion from something I stated in an earlier post. The following description applies to 3.6 and 4.2 cars. There are two sensors, G82 on the left head, and G83 on the radiator about 1 inch from the outlet. Both are used by the fan control circuit of the instrument cluster. G82 is used by the analog temp gauge circuit and for secondary control of the electric fan. G83's only function is as the primary sensor for control of the electric fan Due to the relative locations of these sensors in the system it is not only possible but virtually guaranteed that G83 From blucollr71 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 30 20:10:18 2004 From: blucollr71 at hotmail.com (Joe Hoff) Date: Fri Apr 30 20:10:19 2004 Subject: [V8] test Message-ID: Sorry to subject you to this but I have a long newbie post and wanted to be sure I didn't wind up posting in lllllllllllllloooooooooooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggggggggg ssssssssssssssssiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnggggggggggggggllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeee lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnneeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeessssssssssssss so I'll try this really long sentence to be sure about it. I think this is long enough to find out. TIA _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From blucollr71 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 30 20:12:00 2004 From: blucollr71 at hotmail.com (Joe Hoff) Date: Fri Apr 30 20:12:02 2004 Subject: [V8] Newbie here Message-ID: Hello everyone! Just wanted to introduce myself. I am a new owner of a 1990 V8 and am enjoying it thouroughly. I love everything about it except the time I spend at the pump. This is my first Audi though I've been an avid VAG fan and have owned and raced several VW's and am actively involved in a VW club. Searching the web for V8 info was turning up slim until I came across this list. It seems by far the most active and recourceful list around. Reading the archives I'm very impressed with custom work and conversions some of you have done. I live in the Denver area and would be interested in meeting local owners here if there are any. So being new to this big monster of a car I have a few questions. If any of these things are well covered in the archives just say so and point me in the right direction. I would like to lower it but am torn because I like the forgiving nature of the stock suspension. Is anyone running the H&R lowering springs? What do you think of them? Is there a lot of scraping or things like having to creep through dips and such? It's mostly a pleasure cruiser for me but Colorado roads are filled with potholes and wonder if they would make it ride more like a lowered rabbit :kidneypuncher: I would also like to minimize some of the bodyroll and understeer on this heavy beast. Possible? I'm sure springs help with roll but can increase understeer on some cars. What about swaybars? Anyone have results/opinions on swaping sizes of those? I've heard certain S car bars fit. I want to put in the adjustable steering column in from a later model V8 and have been told by a local Audi salvage yard that it would fit right in. Any experience with that? The salvage yard has at least a dozen V8's and lots of S and later model cars in it. If anyone has a hard time finding parts I would be happy to check with him and ship out for you. Be warned though that this guy is pretty proud of his cars and seems to charge a lot for a junkyard. Maybe I'm just too used to VW's FYI he also showed me a V8 with a vortec v1 supercharger in it. It was mounted on the passenger side above the wiper res. He is developing it for his A8 and wanted to see how far he could push it before blowing it up since the V8 motors are much cheaper for him. The motronic and injectors handled the mixture fine up intil a huge 18 psi when it threw a rod. Just some food for thought for you guys. The only big issue I have is with the power steering. This is the second power steering pump to be on it recently and it still stiffens up at low revs, especially when it's cold outside. I bought this car from a fellow VW club member that has a shop. He got a hold of the car from a customer and drove it through the winter. The first pump he replaced failed and he sold it to me shortly after putting this latest one on. I was told it takes time to break in, but it seems to have stopped getting better. Is there some sort of bleeding process or adjustment I can do to help relieve this, or does it need to be replaced again? The part is still under warranty but he has done so much work on it for me that I only want to do it as a last resort. There some other things I'd like to address but it's getting long and don't want to scare anyone off. I would like to mention with all the brake postings lately that I have S4 brakes on the front of mine. They work AWESOME! He put them on before I got it so if you like I'll get more details on the swap from him. _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now! http://toolbar.msn.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ From gregsj2 at comcast.net Fri Apr 30 20:20:26 2004 From: gregsj2 at comcast.net (Greg Johnson) Date: Fri Apr 30 20:20:27 2004 Subject: [V8] UFO Brake Conversion Message-ID: <4092ED59.3030001@comcast.net> From the BIRA website: System 2 for UFO-equipped Vehicles Uses the Porsche 996 Carrera 4-piston aluminum monobloc caliper over a Mercedes-Benz V12 320x30 rotor. Fits all UFO-equipped cars, and should fit under some factory 16" wheels. Completely bolt-on, no modifications to the struts required. Greg J BIRA.ORG Steve Buchholz wrote in part: >... on the BIRA thing, there was a place called QRS that was trying to package BIRA kits into turn-key solutions ... but I checked the website, which says that they've retired and moved on to other things ... checking the BIRA site, it appears that they never did a direct UFO conversion ... From jward at mti-interactive.com Fri Apr 30 22:18:41 2004 From: jward at mti-interactive.com (Jeremy Ward) Date: Fri Apr 30 22:18:42 2004 Subject: [V8] a compromise? Message-ID: So my wife wants a new minivan because you can't get 3 car seats in an Audi... I beg to differ: http://www.audiv8.com/forum/files/54157-front.jpg Enjoy, - Jeremy From michael.a.flynn at us.army.mil Fri Apr 30 22:36:15 2004 From: michael.a.flynn at us.army.mil (michael.a.flynn@us.army.mil) Date: Fri Apr 30 22:36:16 2004 Subject: [V8] New Guy Message-ID: <3bd25a33bd0c11.3bd0c113bd25a3@us.army.mil> Joe, Congrads on your new Beast. Lots of info and experience around here. I wish I had a yard around where I live (Tampa) to look for Audi parts. Cant even find 100's or 5000's! Different strokes and all that, you know what your getting into if you lower the car. (not my style) A good set of new struts good Z rated tires up to 16"or 17" and some fresh bits of rubber on the bushings and such can make for a great ride. These cars have alot to offer when using a clean set up. Keeping the car sorted out is another story, but thats why some of keep them, in some cases more then 1, or 2, heck even 3! No names, you know who you are ;) I'm part lurker but there are some folks who have some really good info and is enjoyable to read postings from all the good folks here at the list. Mike Flynn 90 V8 97A6Q