[V8] Radiator removal, and other ????'s

Coleman, David David.Coleman at blackrock.com
Tue Apr 6 16:04:52 EDT 2004

Just a couple comments inserted:

> ...would note that there is a nut which is there to allow you to 
> more easily
> compress the spring/damper on the serpentine belt tensioner.
> There are
> bolts that are accessed with the tensioner in the released 
> state and others
> that require the tensioner to be pushed back and pinned.

As an identifier, I recall that this is an acorn-style nut.

> ... Given this fact I would recommend that you leave the radiator 
> attached.
> Granted, the job is considerably easier with the core support 
> out of the way
> ... but it is not required.

I R&R'd my TB (and cylinder heads and engine block) without removing the bumper or radiator.  Yes, it'd have been easier if I had, but it's not necessary.  Note -- if you want to use air to remove the crank bolt, it's all gotta come out.  Otherwise you definitely need a friend with a modicum of understanding of physics.

> ... plate.  I had a bit of fun getting the cam pulley to come loose on the
> driver's side bank.

Nice description on the cam plates.  There's a couple pulley bolts that are extremely tight, and they're heart-stoppers when it comes to loosening them!  You're not removing the heads, but the torquing requirement on them is insane.  Same with the crank pulley (vibration damper?).  You'll need a torque wrench multiplier or a powerful air gun.  When you get that far in the reinstall, let us know...

> I don't know how much archive diving you've done, but you 
> should carefully
> review the cam belt tensioning mechanism.  I almost lost the 
> engine in #344
> because the "friction piece" had worn completely through and 

PN:  "friction pad"  077 109 495


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