[V8] A\C

DasWolfen at aol.com DasWolfen at aol.com
Tue Apr 27 07:50:25 EDT 2004

Comments inserted.......

In a message dated 4/26/04 11:30:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dsaad at icehouse.net writes:

> If your system does not need any repairs, then just add R12 and be done 
> with it. It is the best refrigerant for your system.

Agreed, R12 is better than anything else....if you can get it.

> If you have to fix some major part though, it is probably wise to do 
> the conversion to the new stuff - R134a I think is the spec. Your 
> system will not be quite as powerful as with R12 but it still should 
> work OK.
> You need at least a new compressor/clutch, drier, and orifice thingy. 
> (technical term) plus whatever went wrong to cause your current problem 
> for a conversion.

 Incorrect, see below......

> I have priced it out and you can expect to spend around a K buck. 
> ($1000)
> Lots of expensive parts need to be replaced is the problem. My A/C guy 
> swore up and down that nobody came into his shop with  low refrigerant 
> that did not need something replaced. Then he met me. He could not find 
> any leaks in my factory original system so he just recharged it and I 
> was good to go. Hopefully you will be as lucky. The recharge was only 
> about $100. A factor of ten improvement over his estimate to convert.
> I have heard tell of some cheapo conversion kits where you just change 
> the fittings and refill with the new juice. I would stay away from 
> that. You will only end up doing a proper conversion after it fails on 
> you.

 The cheapo conversion kits do in fact work just fine. The key is getting a 
full charge. It can take several attempts at filling before you get fully 
charged but its no more difficult than what we used to do with small cans of R-12. 
The last car I did in this manner, a 91 200q20v, hasn't had any problems at 
all from what the owner has reported.

 As for replacing parts because they are "required".....BS...

 In some older cars its required to replace hoses or seals because they are 
not compatible with R-134a. This is not an issue with the V8 or any Audi since 
at least 86 for that matter. 

 Orifice valves don't get replaced unless the compressor has failed and 
filled up the valve screens with metal particles. Even then the valve can usually 
just be removed and cleaned...BTDT.

 Driers only need changed if the system has been completely empty for a 
period of time. 

 Compressors "might" need changed on some cars if the compressor was marginal 
in its R-12 application. Not an issue with any Type 44.

 Installing a larger condensor would help R-134a performance....but unless 
you know where to get a custom one made you're out of luck. Even late V8's with 
factory R-134a used the same size condensor as R-12 cars.

 The "right" way to switch to R-134a on an Audi is to have the system 
vacuumed and checked that it holds vac. Then pressurized with nitrogen...and check 
that it holds pressure...then vacced again and filled with a full charge of 
R-134a and oil. In the past three years I've had at least 15 cars converted this 
way and none have had the slightest problem.


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