[V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8
ron_01056 at yahoo.com
Tue Apr 27 13:18:52 EDT 2004
A very severe vibration under our feet when putting
the hammer down. Which made us look at the mounts &
from what we seen they both were collapsed.
Hope this helps.
--- "Korn, Bob" <Bob.Korn at Fike.com> wrote:
> Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you
> notice with the worn
> motor mounts?
> My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder
> during initial
> acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss,
> was wondering if this
> could be the mounts???
> 90 V8Q Pearl 136K
> -----Original Message-----
> From: cobram at juno.com [mailto:cobram at juno.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM
> To: ron_01056 at yahoo.com
> Cc: v8 at audifans.com; quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8
> Ron Wainwright <ron_01056 at yahoo.com> writes:
> > A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his
> > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this
> > I was wondering if any lister can help with any
> > Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get
> > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best
> > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to
> > open any more cans of worms than is allready open.
> Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago:
> From: Cobram at juno.com
> To: v8q at u.washington.edu
> Finally got around to changing the long ago
> purchased motor mounts on the
> 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone
> wanting it: Remove the
> bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of bent
> vice grips to hold the
> rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when
> you remove the 10mm nuts
> holding the cover on. Remove the two side air
> intakes on top with the same
> 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides
> of the engine headers.
> (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold
> your "Big Wheels" pedals
> on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a
> 17mm universal socket (a
> regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit)
> with a THIN extension on
> it over the top motor mount nut through the header
> pipe on the right side.
> The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box
> end 17mm angle wrench.
> (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There
> isn't enough room to get
> an extension through the headers on this
> side. To remove the bottom bolts on the motor
> mounts, loosen the 4 sub
> frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the
> same 17mm universal on
> the two bottom nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil
> recommended, as these bolts
> get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and
> bolts are off the motor
> mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best
> place I've found for
> lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack
> and lift with the top of
> the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on.
> For the right side,
> placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket
> against the engine
> worked well. Lift enough to give you clearance to
> remove the old engine
> mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms,
> "installation is reverse
> of removal."
> One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom
> motor mounts bolts was
> so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut
> that the bolt goes
> through. Needed an extra set of hands to hold the
> bolt while I turned the
> nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put
> the bolt in from the top
> and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this
> again in ten years.
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