john at bysinger.net
Wed Jun 30 00:28:19 EDT 2004
Yep it was the fusable link, I'll be ordering a new one tomorrow, thanks for
the part number! You were definately right too it looked intact but my v/o
meter showed otherwise, unscrewed the screws and it became more obvious.
Thanks for the help!
From: Kneale Brownson [mailto:knotnook at traverse.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 9:13 PM
To: John Bysinger; v8 at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] Overheating
If the auxiliary fan isn't running at advanced coolant temperatures, more
than likely the fusible link has failed. That's a high-amp fuse (80 amps)
in the form of a flat piece of metal located in a little black box attached
to the anchoring point for the hydraulics system reservoir. It has a cover
that will swing open (if you're lucky. Most break at this age) to display
the flat piece of metal serving as a fuse. It MAY look intact but actually
be broken. You have to undo the screws holding it in place to be certain.
You can get a new one from the dealer for a couple of bucks. The fuse is
Part # N017-125-3. I'd get a couple so you have one in stock. The fuse
box itself is about $10. That's part # 281.937.505A. If you live in a
winter rustbelt state, you'll probably need both the screws that hold the
link in place (# N014-128-11) and the ones that mount the box
(N013.966.26). Obviously, I've dealt with this repeatedly.
At 03:40 PM 6/29/2004 -0700, John Bysinger wrote:
>We've had a nice streak of warmer weather these last couple of weeks up
>in rainy washington, and it looks like the v8's not too happy with it. I
>got stuck in some stop and go traffic the other day and first noticed that
>the v8 didn't want to shift, then checked the gauges and the temp 'seemed'
>high, right around the 100 mark on the gauge (still a new car to me so I'm
>not sure what the limits of normal and high are yet.) I was able to get
>of the traffic and drive home at a decent, constant speed and noticed the
>temp dropped back down to ~ 95 or so, but she still didn't want to shift.
>I'm guessing the shifting was a 'limp home mode' when the ECU notices
>go awry, as it was in 4th and stayed that way until I shut it off and
>started it back up that night and it shifted fine.
>So now I've got a week off and time to put into figuring it out and started
>it up in the driveway, the overflow tank doesn't seem low, and no big
>puddles under the car so I tried starting her and letting it idle until
>operating temp. It took close to 30 minutes for it to reach a full
>operating temp, with a slow climb on the gauge. However it passed the 100
>degree mark and I noticed the overflow tank showing signs of a pressure
>buildup and leaking a small ammount through the fill cap, so I shut it
>Two things I think may be contibuting but wanted to bounce it off of you
>guys first. One, the drivers side electric fan on the radiator wasn't
>running, is this a secondary fan? and should it have been? Two, I'm
>thinking it may be a stuck thermostat not opening properly, and I'm seeing
>two possible thermostats available, a 180 degree and a 192/195 degree.
>Which temp are you all running on yours?
>And the last note, when pulling the airbox out of the way, I noticed the
>previous owner had put one of those 'vortex' things in the openeing to the
>throttle body. I had to laugh a bit as there's a laminar flow grate right
>behind it defeating the purpose.
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