[V8] new v8 owner new to the list

John Bysinger john at bysinger.net
Sun Mar 28 15:09:08 EST 2004

I just wanted to say thanks for the advice!  I just did the 'blower motor
tune up' you described below, piece of cake, only took about 40 minutes.
Still seems a little slow on the startup, but I'll give it a week or so and
hit it again with the electrical cleaner/wd40.

I also managed to fix my right rear power window, cluprit was a loose switch
assembly on the door.  This would be the 3rd car I've bought with similar
door issues fixed without a single dime spent!

But about that dime....  I noticed a little oil sheen under the v8q shortly
after I got it, I was concerned that it might be the engine, turns out its
power steering fluid. :(   It looks like the high pressure line is leaking
right after it leaves the pump.  I'm relieved that it's not the pump or
rack, but still will have to replace that line.

... todo list 2 things shorter, and one thing longer....  at least it's

'90 v8q

-----Original Message-----
From: cobram at juno.com [mailto:cobram at juno.com]
Sent: Friday, March 12, 2004 9:57 AM
To: knotnook at traverse.com
Cc: john at bysinger.net; v8 at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] new v8 owner new to the list

Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com> writes:

> The Link to Chris Miller's website is OK.  To replace the blower
> motor only, however, you only need to raise the heater core box a few
> inches.
> You don't need to remove it entirely.

Personally, I would not go this route given he's just acquired the car.
The heater core is probably factory, and at this age and mileage,
changing it along with the blower motor (I've been changing the hoses and
heater valve too on my aging fleet along with the blower, as added
insurance) makes sense.  I did the blower motor in the 1990 200TQA a
little while back, and with the heater box out and on a bench, I pulled a
little on the hose neck of the heater core to pull it out and the
"gooseneck" broke off in my hand.

You can give the blower motor some extended life.  Remove the cowl cover,
under you'll see the squirrel cage housing.  On the drivers side remove
the small rubber tube that goes from the squirrel cage part to the motor
protrusion underneath.  It's a little harder to get at in the V8Q than
"normal" type 44's (of course) because of a wiring harness and AC hose
that runs near it at the bend.

Remove this hose and you'll have access to the top of the blower motor
and one brush.

Spraying through the hole, clean the brushes and motor area well with a
good electrical cleaner.  I swear by an electrical cleaner made by
Chemtronics, it's available at electronic supply houses, called
"Electro-Wash", it's CFC free but works just like the good ole Freon
cleaners of days gone by.  Any non-residue electronic cleaner will work

After cleaning, put a screwdriver on top of the brush housing on the
motor, and tap or push down on the brush.  Run the CC for a while to make
sure the motor is "fixed".

Before you button it up, give the motor and brush area a good spraying
with WD40.  Spray the WD40 in while the blower is ON, this will cause a
positive pressure at the opening, and keep the WD40 smell out of the CC

You'll save yourself much time and aggravation when you reinstall the
rubber hose by using a long pliers and spraying the ends with silicone.

Your results may vary, but it will hopefully keep the problem at bay for
the winter, so you can change the blower motor when the weather improves.

On my cars this has added a year or two of extra life to the blower
motor.  V8Q #2 is going on a year and half now since I did the above to
it's dead blower motor, still going strong.


More information about the V8 mailing list