[V8] V8 timing belt
dsaad at icehouse.net
dsaad at icehouse.net
Tue Mar 30 17:52:59 EST 2004
Wellcome to the club!!
I also agree - I would rather do a t-belt than a clutch. It is far easier.
Quoting David Head <v8q at bellsouth.net>:
> I finally bit the bullet and completed the timing belt last weekend on
> the tornado red car. I was seriously apprehensive in approaching this
> job. All in all, it was pretty straightforward - I would rather do one
> of these than a trans or a rack (any day!)... Kudos goes to Keith for
> listening patiently and providing few rude comments to my dumb
> For tools I had the cam locks, harmonic balancer lock, 2079 extension,
> pin spanner and big wrench for the fan removal. I replaced the oil pump
> seal and bearing - but nothing else (other than the expensive plastic
> bushing). Car runs fine - it has a slight whine it didn't have before -
> might be coming from the water pump. While in there I also replaced the
> distributor seals and added additional blue sealant, new rotors and
> distributor caps and resealed both valve covers
> I also bought a digital 6" caliper from Harbor Freight for $20.00. It
> sure made life easier when setting the damper length!
> I was lucky in that when I shut the car off, it was about 5 degrees
> short of TDC. Verification can be done by pulling off the valve cover
> and eyeballing the zeros on the gears for the drive chain. One can also
> check by verifying the rotor is lined up to number one. There's actually
> a scribe mark on the distributor to make sure its lined up right (of
> course with my eyes and no inspection mirror that was a non starter...).
> I had one issue with the white plastic shield over the hall sensor
> partially disintegrating and interfering with rotation. A few drops of
> Superglue gel solved that.
> For those who have done one, the old belt had stretched to 6.1 inches
> (spec is 131-133mm, about 5.1 to 5.25 inches). After eccentric
> adjusment, the damper was 132mm. After tightening down the cam bolts and
> running through 2 revolutions, it was 132.48mm. I got the dimwit award
> when I tried to rotate the engine through 2 turns with the cam locks
> installed... Doh!!! FYI - it will go about two thirds of a rotation
> before finding a set of valves.
> Parts NOT reinstalled: rear passenger side heat shield speed nut (if you
> ever take it off, you'll know why!), one of 2 washers for the wiring
> clamp that bolts the the alternator cover. Removing the passenger side
> heat shield gives easy access to the alternator.
> Advice not followed: radiator support assembly removal. Some recommend
> this as an access aid. Its good advice for a northern car as it gives
> direct access to everything. If you have a lot of corrosion issues it
> could make or break the job. Since my car was a southern car all but its
> first year, and the timing belt had been done 3 years ago I didn't see
> the need.
> Retrospect: I was trying to save money, and since I had done the water
> pump, thermostat, cam/crank seals, rollers/tensioners 3 years ago I
> figured I would be all right in not doing so. I should have gone ahead
> and done them all again. Although everything spun smoothly (including
> the oil pump bearing) - something is slightly worn in there. If it gets
> worse in the next month I'll go back in and do the rest. Now that I've
> done one I'm not averse to going back in there if necessary.
> Time: I stretched this out over 2 days. Day one was disassembly/fitting
> the timing belt, oil pump seal/bearing and setting initial length. Day 2
> was cover cleaning, sealing and reassembly. Total time: about 11-12
> hours. I could probably do it in 10 a second time, and maybe 9 or 8 with
> help and an air ratchet. It would be hard to move much quicker - there
> are just so many small things there that have to be done.
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