[V8] Ignition Lock Removal Inst.

Torrence Thomas tethomas at onlineaccesscards.com
Sat Oct 2 05:33:35 EDT 2004

Found in my Audi email folder...Good instructions when I replaced mine.

Thanks Cobram for the excellent writeup.
Here it is.

Torrence Thomas
'90 V8

Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2003 21:50:15 -0400
From: cobram at juno.com
Subject: [V8] Ignition Lock

A few observations that will save lots of time and cursing.  I had to
change the lock cylinder because the tab on the back which goes into and
turns the ignition switch had broken off.

This job is relatively easy, especially when you IGNORE most of the
procedure in the manual.  I removed and replaced the ignition lock, and
only needed to get the kickpanel, cluster, top half of column plastic and
the dashpad out of the way.

I did NOT remove the Airbag, Column Switches, Console, Trim, Steering
Wheel, Glovebox and the rest of the complex scenario I had envisioned
necessary for removing the aluminum crossbrace.

With the parts in the second sentence out, through the aluminum
crossbrace you can get at the two small screws on top and the plug on the
back to pull out the ignition switch (plastic part.).  Have a mirror

I removed the few screws holding on the wood trim on the left side (wood
that goes around lock) too, so I could pull it forward (did not remove it
completely.)   Took the anti-theft torx screw out of ignition lock.
Removed the two lock nuts from the retaining plate on the floor, down by
the firewall that hold the steering column to the rack bushing.
Removed the two bolts with the captive nuts (one had a bracket and relay
attached to it.)
Removed the three side bolts and the four top bolts on the column that
hold it to the aluminum crossbrace, pulled the column forward a bit to
easily separate the column (mark the column position on the bushing so
you can put it back the same way), then put the column shaft to the left
and high of where it attaches to the bushing.  This way the column could
be pushed in (with some body weight behind it) enough so that the
steering lock could be pulled out and turned to clear the aluminum brace
to come out.

After removing the tumbler mechanism from the rest of the steering lock
assembly, (drilled hole etc. as per manual)  I put just the steering lock
part back first to make things easy, and pushed the new tumbler part in
after the steering lock was installed.  This way you can put something in
the tumbler hole of the steering lock to hold the steel locking bar to
the right while installing.

If you've read this far, this is a payoff here......by doing it the hard
way, the easy method revealed itself.  Did not do it on the car of
course, but a bench test with the old lock worked.    If you cut the
black collar that goes around the ignition key cylinder (you'll need a
small whizzer, dremel tool or something of the sort), you'll be able to
reach the spring that holds the lock cylinder in the steering lock and
push it down with a piece of flat hard metal, a lock pick iron worked for
me.  Once this spring is pushed down the key tumbler will pull out, no
need to do anything more except push in the new piece!  Man, I could have
avoided all the above work.  The most you'll have to do is remove a
couple of screws and pull the wood trim back so you won't damage it while
cutting off the black collar.  You will ruin the old tumbler this way,
but if this is the part you're changing it's a moot point.

 From what I could see, you cannot re-key the new lock tumbler assembly,
so you're stuck with two keys until you get around to re-keying the other
  locks.  Total time was around 4 hours, most of that spent figuring out
what held what where and who was on first.   The new lock cylinder from
the dealer (Mac at Clair) was $54.00.


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