[V8] FW: Emailing: 006977

bob moy mmodels at hotmail.com
Sun Jun 12 17:16:57 EDT 2005

There are a lot of codes so you should do as one wise man once said "clear 
the codes and see which ones reappears".

BTW the wise man was Keith aka DasWolfen

>Thanks.  I also assumed the speed sensor code was because I ran codes
>without the engine running (same on the 20vt motronic, which is very
>similar in most ways).  Didn't think about the brake light switch being
>the same issue; will recheck codes next time before I shut the engine
>First priority is the knock sensor (especially since it is the first
>code listed).  I took apart and cleaned the connector for KS1 (passenger
>side) yesterday while replacing the fuel pressure regulator and it
>seemed fine.  I'll look again, and check for continuity between any of
>the pins (meaning a short).  I assume I need to pull off the intake
>manifold to check the sensor torque/cleanliness of the block.  Does this
>require new gaskets?  Easy or difficult task?  If it is a lot of hassle,
>I may swap out the $50 sensor at the same time.
>Idle speed is low; didn't note how low on the tach (need to change the
>bulbs illuminating the tach so I can see it at night).  No stumbles.
>How does the instrument cluster come out?
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeremy Ward [mailto:jward.v8 at gmail.com]
>Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 1:51 PM
>To: Miller, Chris
>Cc: v8 at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: [V8] '93 V8: some progress, but now new codes.
>I had a similar issue a few years ago when I first pulled the codes on
>my V8.  It was pointed out to me that the motor should be running when
>you pull the codes, otherwise you will get an engine speed sensor error.
>Also, when you start the car, most people put their foot on the brake to
>do so; if you don't, you will get the brake light switch code.
>My guess on the knock sensor is the connector on the fuel rail.  Over
>the years, the heat kills the plastic connector housing and it will
>crumble to dust if you look at it sideways.  I had to McGuiver mine
>together one day after bumping it ;-)  Take off the air filter cover
>(3 screws, 4 bolts) to access the connectors - they should be zip tied
>to the fuel rails, one on each side.  Make sure they are intact and
>Sorry, no experience with idle speed too low...  Does it stumble at
>idle?  Where does the needle sit at idle?  600RPM?
>ECU and TCU are located behind the driver's knee bolster and are stacked
>one on top of the other.
>Good luck!
>- Jeremy
>On 6/12/05, Miller, Chris <chris.miller at infofoundry.com> wrote:
> >
> > New codes.
> >
> > 2142   (00524)  G61 Knock Sensor 1 - No change in signal .  Symptom:
> > high fuel consumption, power loss.  Corrective measure:  tightening
> > torque 20 Nm, or correct open or short circuit.
> > ---
> > 2231   (00533)  Idle Speed Regulation - Maximum adaptation limit
> > exceeded.  Symptom:  idle speed too low.  Corrective measure:  Check
> > N71 IAC valve; check G70 MAF, check G19 (also MAF?) Could be:  IAC
> > binding when closed.  MAF offset.  Terminal resistance at connector of
> > N71
> > ---
> > 2111  (00513)  Engine speed (RPM) sensor - no change in signal.
> > Symptom:  engine does not start; misfires; engine stalls.  Check
> > sensor and repair short or open circuit.
> > Condition:  Foreign material on sensor.  Mounting base loose.
> > Distance greater than 1.2mm to flywheel.  Broken teeth on flywheel.
> > Open circuit/short circuit.
> > ---
> > 2131  (00518)  Brake light switch (F) - Open circuit, or defective
> > switch.
> >
> >
> > Idle speed is low, but never stalls.  Engine starts and seems to run
> > fine, with the check engine light occasionally coming on.  I cleaned
> > the knock sensor harness connector yesterday; no effect.  I cleaned
> > out the IAC valve, and found some corrosion in the lower pin of the
> > Cleaned that too; no effect.
> >
> > Next step is to figure out where the ECU is located (under driver's
> > side
> > dash?) and clean the connector there.  Then figure out the knock
> > sensor issue, then find the connector for the RPM sensor (sounds like
> > it is driver's side near the O2 sensor connector).  Then look at/swap
> > out the brake light switch.
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Chris Miller
> > Training Development
> > [i] The Information Foundry at Robert Bentley, Inc.
> > Tel: 617.528.4113
> > Cell: 617.875.3792
> > mailto:chris.miller at infofoundry.com
> > http://www.infofoundry.com
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