[V8] Rear main seal leaking? Uh oh.....

dsaad at icehouse.net dsaad at icehouse.net
Thu Mar 24 11:31:51 EST 2005

Wise counsel Dave san...

Before I went and yanked out a motor, I would re-torque (using a real torque
wrench) all of the oil pan and sump bolts. To do this you are going to have to
remove the lower pan and possibly lower the sub frame. There are approximately 6
zillion bolts and you will have to buy a lower pan gasket.
There is a junction point where the rear main seal cover, engine block, and
upper sump all come together. This is a great place for a leak - and will look
like the rear main. (BTDT) As I recall, there are two hidden bolts in there
somewhere that need to be tight.


Quoting Dave Head <v8q at bellsouth.net>:

> Before doing that, remove the reference sensors on check for oil. My
> hanger queen had a leak like that - but it was the upper sump gasket
> (the cast piece above the oil pan) instead of the crank seal. It its the
> rear main, it will sling oil. If its the sump gasket, it will just leak.
> Carter Johnson wrote:
> >That is correct - one or the other.  Sorry if I didn't
> >make that clear.  Obviously, though, with everything
> >apart, it makes sense to service the tranny.  It is
> >*likely* the rear main - we replaced all the breather
> >hoses in the hope that the leak was there when I did
> >the timing belt.  When you're under the car, if you
> >peer into the two holes at the bottom of the bell
> >housing, you can see oil accumulating on the inards.
> >Also, a close inspection after a hard run in and 30
> >minutes running showed no leaks from up high, though
> >the right bank is noiser (cam chain slack????) and the
> >right bank distributer is a touch weepy.
> >
> >Carter
> >
> >
> >--- Jeremy Ward <jward at mti-interactive.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I was getting leaking on the exhaust X and it was
> >>coming from the rear
> >>crank case breather hose, the head to head breather
> >>hose, and possibly
> >>the vacuum hose that goes up and over the air intake
> >>at the back of the
> >>engine (well, it was covered in oil and
> >>deteriorated, possible from the
> >>other oil leak).
> >>
> >>If it *is* the RMS, you should be seeing oil leaking
> >>from the bottom of
> >>the bell housing...  I think it has been said there
> >>are holes you can
> >>peek in and see oil if you have an RMS issue.
> >>
> >>Original recommendation was 10qts of oil, which was
> >>dropped down to 8.25
> >>qts.  Those who run 10 qts experience oil
> >>consumption and it puts extra
> >>pressure on the seals (including the RMS), whereas
> >>those running 2 qts
> >>less don't see much oil consumption...
> >>
> >>I replaced the RMS when I had the transmission out
> >>for repair.  The
> >>transmission shop didn't want to do it, told me if
> >>it's not leaking,
> >>don't touch it.  BS.  If you pay 11hrs x shop rate
> >>to have the
> >>transmission removed and reinstalled, there is no
> >>better time to do the
> >>RMS.  IIRC it was $150 for the plate with seal
> >>already pressed in.  Some
> >>on the list say you can get just the seal for much
> >>less and press it in
> >>your self, but in my opinion the extra money was
> >>good insurance to
> >>reduce the risk of future leaks from messing with it
> >>in the first place.
> >>
> >>To clarify what you said Carter, to get to the RMS,
> >>you have to either
> >>pull the tranny (11 hr R&R) OR the motor (10 hr
> >>R&R).  You don't have to
> >>do both...
> >>
> >>Good luck man, and let me know if you need the P/N
> >>for the RMS (I have
> >>it somewhere...)
> >>
> >>Cheers,
> >>
> >>- Jeremy
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >W. Carter Johnson
> >University of Rhode Island
> >401-874-4947 office
> >401-789-3217 home
> >
> >
> >
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