[V8] Changing out Power Steering Hose

Kneale Brownson kneale at coslink.net
Mon May 8 10:56:48 EDT 2006

Haven't done a V8 yet, but on my 200q20v, I used the passenger side
wheelwell with wheel removed as the access for the extensions with a
(pretty sure) 19mm swivel socket.  Can't get a straight shot with a
straight socket, if I recall correctly.  I turned the wrench from the
wheelwell.  I had an assistant guide the socket onto the banjo bolt head.

When reinstalling the banjo bolt, there's a neat trick that I think is in
the knowledge base on Audifans.com where you wind some stout thread around
the bolt threads so that you can hold the bolt in place with a finger and
pull the thread to begin it turning into the rack's threads.

I didn't have to loosen the rack, but I did have to clear some hand/arm
space, so I presume you'd need to remove at least the driver side
distributor.  Will the rotor go into the slot 180 degrees off?  If so, you
need to be aware where the rotor is pointing when you take the distributor
off.  Do you need to remove the passenger side distributor and all that
other stuff in order to pass the wrench extensions behind the engine?  

At 08:23 AM 5/8/2006 -0600, dsaad at icehouse.net wrote:
>Well - I was just in there a few months ago -
>I am not sure if you can do this without loosening the rack and or
removing the
>damper, but assuming you don't have to do either of those:
>- drain the oil out of the tank now - before it all ends up on the floor.
>- remove all the air box stuff
>- remove both distibutors
>- remove both ignition coils. On the left side, there are two 10mm bolts 
>next to
>the hood alarm switch that hold the coil bracket on - remove those to get the
>coil off.
>- may have to remove the ignition wire holder tray. (I did)
>- may have to unclip the stainless clamp on the shock tower to free up the
>line a little.
>- remove the fuel pressure and return lines to give room to work the ratchet.
>The manual says to use a really long extension and extend all the way out
>through the wheel well. You may find this easier if you have the front right
>wheel off.
>- using a long extension and socket (either 17mm or 19mm - can't remember),
>remove the banjo bolts for the lines. You may as well fix them both. The
>extension has to be long enough so the ratchet is located over by the right
>ignition coil.
>That is all I can remember for now - but this is basically the manual 
>If you have the manual, read it. It gives pretty good detail as well as
all the
>bolt torques. I THINK the banjo bolt torque is only 17 lb/ft so be careful not
>to break it.
>Quoting "Moy, Bob" <bob.moy at cte.aecom.com>:
>> Any tips on changing out the PS hose for the rack?  The supply (pressure
>> side) hose is leaking from the steel hard line to the rack.  Will I have
>> to remove the left side distributor to get more room?  What else needs
>> to be removed to replace this hose?  The hose appears to be routed
>> behind the master brake cylinder.
>> Thanks
>> Bob
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