[V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited
Scottp at ippe.com
Fri Nov 10 13:05:28 EST 2006
There is another way that is IMHO far easier and will save you tons of
time from now on... I got the name from the BIRA site.. (www.BIRA.org)
http://www.speedbleeder.com/ These guys figured out how to make a
bleeder screw with a check valve inside it, so that you can
crack the bleeder open stick on a piece of hose into a can and pump the
pedal (make sure you don't run out of fluid)
The pressure from the MC will open the check forcing the fluid out,
closing (via a spring) when the pressure (pedal up-stroke) goes away
So you can easily change fluid (Bentley says pump out 500CC per wheel if
I recall) or bleed them on your own. And there's no need for a
Pressure bleeder. And the next time ;-)... well you get the idea.
Further adding to what Dave said, in that if the MC is in bad shape,
this is adding no 'additional" work to it
(other than its original design)..
I can't say for sure how they work (I only found them yesterday and
ordered a set)..
This is just my $0.02.
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
Of dsaad at icehouse.net
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 12:27 PM
To: v8 at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited
Even cheaper - and probably the best and cleanest way too - is just a
cheap catch bottle you hook up to the bleeder valve. You just pump the
through with the pedal - so no pressure or vacuum needed.
I have tried all three ways on various cars, and to me the simplest and
is this way. You can either buy a simple system that has nice adaptor
just get a length of clear tubing you can force over the bleeder nipple,
glass jar. The only trick is to keep the jar end of the tube below the
level so you don't pull air back up into the wheel cylinder.
The only problem you might have is if the master cylinder is in bad
shape - as
in corroded and near failure anyway. When you pump the fluid through,
will bottom out and if the normally un-used part of the cylinder bore is
or corroded then you can tear up the seals. The fact is though that your
cylinder is near failure anyway and this will just help you decide to
sooner rather than later.
On the brighter side, if you always do it this way, the cylinder bore
cleaned out periodically and perhaps last longer.
I will also add that I have never had a master cylinder fail this way -
83 ranger that had never had any regular fluid service done to it.
This is also the way most brake shops I have seen do it because it
special tools and works on any car.
Quoting Jeremy Ward <jward.v8 at gmail.com>:
> Another option is to pull the brake fluid from the valve at each
> bought a cheap (~$40) tool at the FLAPS that has a vacuum gage and a
> reservoir for pulling (and removing) fluids. I used it to bleed the
> and it worked well. Don't forget to refill the reservoir on the
> cylinder though ;-)
> - Jeremy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On
> Etdmail at cs.com
> Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 6:52 AM
> To: v8 at audifans.com
> Subject: [V8] Brake Reservoir Cap - Bleeder(s) Revisited
> Hi All
> An old post, I thought I'd resend for an easy bleeder ..
> In the event, the ABS-Pump or gravity won't bleed the system.
> In the past - I've used a 'spare' brake master-cylinder cap
> with the correct-sized hole cut, in it's center, to accept a
> tire/rim's valve-stem .. And then used a 'bicycle-pump' to
> supply pressurization to the master and lines.
> With the lower pressure levels there should be little worry
> about brake fluild landing on costly to repair paint surfaces.
> Also have found the (Valvoline) Synthetic brake fluids available
> in AutoZones, etc. .. Gives good service and leaves a slightly
> harder brake-pedal, hot or cold.
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