dsaad at icehouse.net
Thu Jul 26 00:49:00 EDT 2007
Yes - the t-stat is at the connection of lower rad hose to block. Not too
hard to R&R but heed Steves advice about the upper hose (and lower too for
that matter). I would not kink or bend (or fold, spindle or mutilate :-)
them any more than you have to. They are REALLY expensive. The upper is
well north of $200 as I recall - and getting worse with the fall of the
dollar. The lower was also over $100.
> ... don't have an engine in front of me, but I'm pretty sure the
> is on the lower rad hose fitting ... not a real big deal, you can only
> remove the flange which has a thermostat behind it ... :-)
> The upper rad hose is expensive, and rather delicate IME, I damaged an
> almost brand new part by leaving one of the fittings attached to the head
> while I did the thermostat ... not too long after that I had the hose fail
> ... for that reason I recommend removing the upper rad hose when you do
> The bolts on the flange are Torx heads ... and they can get corroded into
> place pretty hard ... it might be best to hit the heads with some
> penetrating oil before starting ...
> Steve B
> San José, CA (USA)
> -----Original Message-----
> On the front of the engine, down a little, a bit over toward the
> passenger side. Follow the upper rad hose to it. It comes out the
> passenger side top of the rad, splits and goes right to each side of
> the engine. You want the passenger side one.
> If you remove the idle stabilizer valve you'll have more room to work.
> Three 10mm acorn nuts and unclip the connector and it should come out
> If you have the belly pan on, be extra careful not to drop the nuts.
> You can drain the majority of the coolant from the drain on the rad.
> It's way down low on the passenger side.
> Get down and look through the grills below the main bumper surface.
> You should see a blue plastic knob about the size of a quarter with an X
> You can use a large blade screwdriver to unscrew that.
> Be carefull, it's plastic and old.
> Disconnect both arms of the upper rad hose and swing them out of the
> way. Be gentle, a new hose is 150 bux. You're still going to lose
> some fluid here, so be ready.
> The thermostat housing has two bolts that have torx heads on them.
> Again, if your belly pan is on, be extra careful to not drop these bolts.
> The torque spec is fairly low so don't be too agressive when you
> Be sure to get a new rubber gasket with the new thermostat.
> Some come with, some are sold separately.
> The correct thermostat has a little check valve in the lip.
> That should be at the top when the thermo is installed.
> You don't need any goo for the gasket.
> It gets compressed and seals by torquing the thermostat housing down.
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