[V8] new radiator

Kneale Brownson knealeski at sbcglobal.net
Thu May 17 11:43:50 EDT 2007

Since archives searching is so lame, here's Cobram's description including using the cooler lines for draining.  He says the cooler lines won't drain the sump.  If you can't get the drain plug off, maybe one of those extractors with its tube run down the filler tube into the pan would do that part of the job.  Your best fill is to use the filler tube.  You don't want to be reinstalling those cooler lines when they're full of oil.
  >#1, replace fluid with a good synthetic, MobilOne Synthetic ATF (about
>$5 a quart) is one of the best.
>If you've never done it before, it might be a good idea to change/check
>the filter.   To get the pan off you'll have to remove the crossover
>for the exhaust, have some bungee cords handy to hang the crossover so
>that you don't have to disconnect the O2 sensor.  Don't mix up the
>exhaust doughnuts, they're two different sizes.  By draining the pan
>you'll only get about 3 quarts of fluid out, some people like to
>fill/drain several times until the mixture thins out to a high
>percentage of new fluid.
>First time I changed mine the filter was spotless so I don't change the
>filter with the fluid every time (IF the old fluid is clean.)  I change
>the fluid by removing the two transmission cooler lines that go into the
>radiator, it takes a 10mm socket (I replaced the factory allens),
>extension and universal to get these off, a 13mm for the long bolt that
>holds the lines at the compressor.
>You might want to have some O rings handy if you want to change them,
>I've reused them several times with no leaks, just clean hole in
>radiator well and grease them a little.  Also a Hex driver for the
>trans. pan.
>With the lines out of the radiator and hanging down into a bucket and
>the dipstick open, have a 2nd person start the car.  The fluid will pump
>right out into the bucket in less than 30 seconds.  As soon as the
>stream of old fluid stops (usually get a little sputter) turn the car
>off.  You will want to make sure you shut it right down as soon as the
>flow stops.
>Then remove the plug from the trans. pan (drains about 2 qt.) and let
>the lines hang low until the fluid stops siphoning out (about a half
>hour.) Put everything back, fill with about 7 quarts, start it up and
>cycle through the gears,  you can check the dipstick after the trannie
>is up to operating temperature (if the engine oil temp is up to normal,
>it's a safe bet the trannie fluid is too.)
>It will usually take 8 quarts to fill using this procedure.

d saad <dsaad at icehouse.net> wrote:

I got my new radiator last night - and it is an exact OEM replacement.
Same manufacturer, same look, same everything.
It cost about $100
more than the modine (as reported by other listers) unit, but it fit right
in. Sounds like it is well worth the extra money for proper form and

My current problem is transmission oil. I lost some,
and want to change it all out with the OEM stuff - which I have. Problem
is, the drain plug is covered by a dirt deflector plate on the
transmission - which can not be removed without first removing the
crossover pipe - which is a PITA that I just went through. I am wondering
if I can suck it out through the cooler lines, and also put the new oil
back in by forcing it in the return line? Anyone know which is which? I
assume the oil pump suction line is the bottom of the cooler - right?

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