[V8] Knock sensor#1
David.Coleman at blackrock.com
Wed Jan 9 19:26:01 PST 2008
I bet the KS itself is not the problem.
I seem to get that code with every fart the car makes, new KS on both or not.
----- Original Message -----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com <v8-bounces at audifans.com>
To: cobram at juno.com <cobram at juno.com>
Cc: v8 at audifans.com <v8 at audifans.com>
Sent: Wed Jan 09 22:15:36 2008
Subject: Re: [V8] Knock sensor#1
I think the manual diagnostic procedure will allow you to check ohms on
the sensor AND check continuity on the ECU wiring. Page 28-110 says
that there should be OPEN circuit between all three terminals (infinite
ohms) and then some ways to check between ECU and wiring.
From what I can recall, a knock sensor is normally open and when it is
subject to the specific high frequency vibration that spark-knock
produces, a piece of metal on the inside makes contact and completes the
circuit. The computer detects this as knocking and retards the timing
until such signals cease.
cobram at juno.com wrote:
>Last time I got a bad knock sensor code (Left bad), I swapped the
>connectors (L to R and R to L), still got the same code (Left bad.)
>Ended up being a bad ECU, swapped it out with ECU from V8Q #2 and no more
>codes, put #1's ECU into #2 and got the bad knock sensor code. It was
>definitely very detrimental to performance and fuel economy, car felt
>like it had a new engine, I think the rest of the ECU was defaulting to
>pre programmed timing etc. because of the reported bad knock sensor.
>Democracy: 3 wolves and a sheep voting on what's for lunch.
> Scott Simmons <indischrot at gmail.com> writes:
>>I'd check the sensor before removal. The manual has resistance
>>you can do, and since the connector is RIGHT THERE on top of the
>>motor... I'd do that first.
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