[V8] Knock sensor#1

Coleman, David David.Coleman at blackrock.com
Wed Jan 9 19:26:01 PST 2008

I bet the KS itself is not the problem. 
I seem to get that code with every fart the car makes, new KS on both or not. 

----- Original Message -----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com <v8-bounces at audifans.com>
To: cobram at juno.com <cobram at juno.com>
Cc: v8 at audifans.com <v8 at audifans.com>
Sent: Wed Jan 09 22:15:36 2008
Subject: Re: [V8] Knock sensor#1

I think the manual diagnostic procedure will allow you to check ohms on 
the sensor AND check continuity on the ECU wiring.  Page 28-110 says 
that there should be OPEN circuit between all three terminals (infinite 
ohms) and then some ways to check between ECU and wiring.

 From what I can recall, a knock sensor is normally open and when it is 
subject to the specific high frequency vibration that spark-knock 
produces, a piece of metal on the inside makes contact and completes the 
circuit.  The computer detects this as knocking and retards the timing 
until such signals cease.

~Scott S.

cobram at juno.com wrote:

>Last time I got a bad knock sensor code (Left bad), I swapped the
>connectors (L to R and R to L), still got the same code (Left bad.) 
>Ended up being a bad ECU, swapped it out with ECU from V8Q #2 and no more
>codes, put #1's ECU into #2 and got the bad knock sensor code.  It was
>definitely very detrimental to performance and fuel economy, car felt
>like it had a new engine, I think the rest of the ECU was defaulting to
>pre programmed timing etc. because of the reported bad knock sensor. 
>Democracy: 3 wolves and a sheep voting on what's for lunch.
> Scott Simmons <indischrot at gmail.com> writes:
>>I'd check the sensor before removal.  The manual has resistance 
>>you can do, and since the connector is RIGHT THERE on top of the 
>>motor... I'd do that first.
>>~Scott S.

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