[V8] Free At Last Re. Hub Shark Users

kneale at knitknacks.com kneale at knitknacks.com
Tue Oct 28 12:12:22 PDT 2008

Got 'er out.  Put a nice curve in a piece of 1/2" bar that's part of the
Hub Shark's puller system for oversized bearings, hubs and rotors.  Lots
of corrosion on the outside of the old bearing.

I've cleaned up the bearing housing with some crocus cloth and scraped the
rust out of the groove at the inner end of the housing, next to the
shoulder the bearing goes against, as well as scraped off the shoulder as
best I can.

However, the Hub Shark installer plates are all too small to rest just on
the outer rim of the bearing.  Can I use a flat plate just that size to
drive it in?  There's a round flat plate just the bearing's circumference
that's part of the Hub Shark kit.  The installer  plates have a raised rim
around the outside to press on the outer edge of the bearing.   I suppose
I could try using the inner part of the old bearing to press on the new
one if necessary.

> The bearing inner came out with the hub, and I managed to get that pulled
> off the hub.
> However, the Hub Shark does not seem to want to pull the bearing outer
> part from the housing.  There's a great deal more resistance than for
> extracting the hub.  I've run my 3/4-drive CP impact wrench until the
> socket stops moving despite multiple seconds of additional hammering, and
> the thing just isn't coming.  Is there some other approach (other than
> removing the strut and going to a press)?
>> I'm preparing for my first use of a Hub Shark to replace a wheel bearing
>> on my 200q20vA.  I've removed the UFO caliper and the axle.  The Hub
>> Shark
>> directions say to disconnect the lower control arm, but I presume that's
>> to make it possible to swing the bearing housing away from the axle so
>> you
>> don't have to pull the axle.  Since I've already pulled the axle, is
>> there
>> any reason to also disconnect the lower control arm?
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