[V8] rusty brake line connections
cheshirecatsbox at gmail.com
Fri Jan 23 11:48:34 PST 2009
I always just buy a can of coke. It works as well as any penetrant I've
On Fri, Jan 23, 2009 at 10:39 AM, Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com> wrote:
> Kent McLean wrote:
> > From Grassroots Motorsports email:
> > <quote>
> > Unscrewing rusty brake lines is often an exercise in frustration.
> > We've got several tips this month to make the job easier on you
> > and your brake lines. First off, soak the connection in a high-quality
> > penetrating oil like CRC's Screwloose, Kroil or PB Blaster. Let
> > the oil soak in for several days before taking a wrench to the line.
> > Second, be sure and use the proper flare wrench, as it will latch
> > onto a rusted fitting better than a standard open-ended wrench.
> > Finally, when you're getting ready to loosen the fitting, first tighten
> > the connection about 1/16 of an inch before you try to loosen it.
> > This will often be the difference between a stripped nut and one
> > that can be reused.
> > </>
> > I like the tip to let the penetrating oil sit for *several* days.
> > That stuff really works better when you give it time, lots
> > of time.
> Cyclo "breakaway" is also a good penetrant to use.
> Also, a trick one of the old pros next door uses (especially on
> bleeders) is to set up the wrench (or 6 pt socket/ratchet for a
> bleeder), and then use a tiny hammer to rap the wrench over and over.
> It acts like a very low torque impact wrench, and increases the chance
> of getting the bleeder out instead of breaking it.
> Huw Powell
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