[V8] Repairing door wiring?
dsaad at icehouse.net
Sat Nov 7 07:52:00 PST 2009
Soldering does work great, but the connection can not be flexed at
all. When you solder a connection, the solder "wicks" up the wire
making a section maybe an inch long that is now solid. Any flexing
will quickly break it. If you could pull the connections back into
the door and door jamb and leave only a new section of wire in the
boot area you should be fine.
Also, choose wire with many fine strands of wire. It will live longer.
I should also mention that it is easy to make a bad solder connection
if you are not good at it. Soldering is a lot like welding. If you
do it wrong, it will fail.
On Nov 7, 2009, at 5:32 AM, Kent McLean wrote:
> NIck Miller wrote:
>> So, I have finally found a couple buggy wires in my Drivers door
>> that could
>> have been causing some of my window issues, one of them is a brown
>> stripe wire, the other is solid brown..
> When I've done this in the past, I've just spliced new wire onto the
> ends. Some people swear by soldering, but I use a ratcheting crimper:
> It'll make a connection so tight you can't pull it apart.
> I use a piece of wire about a foot long, put heat shrink tubing in
> place, splice
> it to the broken pieces using crimped butt connectors, shrink the
> tubing over
> the joint, then tuck the joints into the door and jamb so just the
> new wire is
> in the rubber boot. It should be good to flex for another 10-15 years.
> There might be enough slack in that piece in the door to pull it out
> so you can
> splice it. If not, the door panel will have to come off.
> Kent McLean
> 1990 V8 w/5-speed and other mods
> 1991 200 TQA #3, with mods
> 1999 A4 Avant, V6 Tiptronic
> gone: '91 200 TQA x2, '94 100 S Avant, '89 200 TQ "Bad Puppy"
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