[V8] Re-birth of my '90 200 tq

Scott Phillips Scottp at ippe.com
Sun Nov 22 12:05:48 PST 2009


That front swaybar is prob the stock one from a V8 (as the stock V8 is

-----Original Message-----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
Of Brian K. Ullrich
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2009 2:47 PM
To: v8 at audifans.com
Subject: [V8] Re-birth of my '90 200 tq

SO, for those who are interested, let me give you all a summary of the


In short, she's on the road. Suspension-wise, she's a dream. Steering is
tight, no rattles, ride is firm. It really feels like a new car
That said, we did have some issues. Here's a quick rundown of what we
encountered thus far.


Front Suspension

The swaybar appears to be an aftermarket. Factory diameter is 21mm; this
is more like a 26mm. So, the bushings didn't fit. Good thing the ones in
aren't quite dead yet.  We'll be rectifying that this week.  


Lessons learned:

Interestingly, once we had all the parts in (lower control arms, struts,
strut mounts, tie-rod ends), and had re-assembled the car, the positive
camber was WAY out, and the negative camber was already adjusted as far
as it could go. She looked like a bow-legged rodeo cowboy after a hard
We figured it was because we loaded the swaybar with the car on the
The answer was to loosen it, drive it around and settle it, then reload
on the alignment rack. As soon as we did, the alignment was out only by
5/32. Not bad.


Rear Suspension

We still need bushings in the traps. I figure I have 5000 miles max left
them, but they are all intact and not rotted. That's the good news. When
dis-assembled the left rear, we saw something I have never seen (nor has
wrench, Carson, in all our days underneath cars); as soon as we removed
lower retainer bolt, the entire assembly fell out. Scared the bejesus
out of
us. Turns out the shock rod had snapped right at the lower threaded
It had been driven like this for QUITE some time. While the upper
plate was not damaged, the rubber spring damper was toast.  I am amazed
the entire assembly wasn't destroyed by the complete lack of lateral
support. We replaced the spring damper, and bolted it all back up. Nice
tight now.


Lessons learned

The Monroe Sensa-trac that we put in the rear appear to have slightly
shock rods than stock. This was apparent once we road tested her and we
some rather loud knocks on both sides at the top on both sides. We
the upper washers and the noise disappeared.



Overall, the brakes went in as designed. Calipers are in good shape, and
they pressure-bled just fine, but we had a problem when we put her on
ground. Pedal pulsed, then went to the floor, and the calipers bound up.
re-bled them, and the problem went away. Brakes work perfectly, ABS is
working, and on hard braking, the car tracks straight.



Most of what we did under the hood was relegated to fluids, filters, and
plugs (NGK BP6ET), as well putting back the parts that had been removed
the PO (fabbed a bracket for the fresh-air pump), although we did
one interesting issued with the fuel-pump banjo bolt crush ring. The
existing one seemed worn, and Audi had no part to replace it. We found
other crush rings, but the metal area was too small, and we were worried
that with too much rubber in that pressure system, some might end up in
CIS. Not good. The wrench's Certified Audi tech went back to his former
dealer shop and talked to some guys, searched through some toolboxes,
found an all metal replacement that the general consensus found to be
acceptable. It is a soft metal, so they all thought it would seat. So
so good. No leaks.



I do have a couple of issues with the driveability of the car. Two areas
concern me, and they are likely related. 


First, the idle is a little rough once the car is warm, and it is prone
stalling at idle then. When it does stall at idle, it will not restart
for a
few minutes unless pushed. The general thought here is that the engine
getting too much fuel, and acts as though flooded. She failed a TX State
inspection today. The failure was for Hydro Carbons at idle (I had to
manually keep it idle RPM or it would eventually stall). The tech at the
inspection station said his experience was failures like that indicated
the engine my be running too rich. One item; there is a K&N filter in
it. I
wonder if that filter is causing air starvation at idle?


Second, there is a buck at 1.7 bar. Under that, she boosts well and
hard, but once I hit 1.7, she bucks until the boost drops below 1.7. I
reproduce it at will. This one stumps me.


Overall Thoughts

I'm pleased with the car. I think once we sort out these minor issues,
she'll be a reliable and good performing daily driver for many years to
come. I am grateful to all you guys and your experience and words of
I'm sure I'd be in much worse shape with a community like this.









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