[Vwdiesel] Replacing Oil Seals

Maynard Southard echomhs at gis.net
Sun May 5 20:10:42 EDT 2002

Thanks to James, Loren and janb for helpful suggestions on removing the front
oil seals.  I think I have a good idea of the slide hammer approach and will
probably try some variation of that.  What is 220 tape and where do I get it?

Thanks also for the tips on the camshaft oil baffle - I hadn't even thought
about the valve cover serving as a hold down - duh!

I will remove the oil pan anyway, since I am also replacing the oil pan gasket
with a windage tray.  Too late to get somebody to loosen the bolt, since I've
already removed the belt.

I also plan to replace the cork valve cover gasket with the all-in-one
molded-type gasket (I have it and the shoulderless studs).  I'm having a heck
of a time getting the shouldered studs out to replace with the shoulderless.  I
can't seem to get two nuts to screw tight enough together to overcome the stud.
 (The nuts have just about stripped).  Am I just being too polite when I jam
these two together?


On Sunday, May 05, 2002 12:11 PM, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> > Is it easiest to replace the camshaft oil seal by removing the camshaft
> > sprocket and then the bearing caps (carefully) and lifting the camshaft
> >
> >  Is there an easier way?
> Know what a slide hammer is?  Screw it into the seal,one whap with the slide
> hammer usually pops it right out.  I've made a few of these in differing
> lengths- they are essentially a weight with a hole in it that a rod fits
> through.  moving the weight to the end of the rod hits a stopper on the rod,
> either pulling or pushing on the rod. One end has a screw- drill the seal
> front, screw it in. This would be the easiest and least error prone way- you
> could just butcher it out with screwdrivers, etc, but don't score the seal
> surface.  Speaking of which, dress the sealing surface with 220 tape before
> you
> install a new seal. (that's where the lip of the seal touches the shaft)

On Sunday, May 05, 2002 12:11 PM, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
>   Leave that plate on.  The gaskets usually stick pretty well and it takes
> time and a razor blade to clean it all off.  Just pry the old seal out.  You
> can do the slide hammer thing, use pry bars or screwdrivers carefully or
> run a screw into the seal and use pliers to pull it out.  You could also
> just grab the screw with the pliers and pry against the pliers.  Safer that
> way.  I would rather find an air impact to pull that bolt rather than pull
> the pan.  You might get a shop to knock it loose and then put it on
> tight enough to get home then have them rattle it back on when you're
> done.

On Sunday, May 05, 2002 12:11 PM, jd_boldt at yahoo.com wrote:
> I do recommend
> using the 'molded' rubber VC gasket, especially with mech heads.  They
> don't leak and last about forever, at least thru many valve
> adjusts (they require 'non-shoulder' studs, or just use 'set srews for
> studs)  Probably be very helpful in your near horizontal engine
> orientation, unless you don't get leakage from cork. (it's so nice to
> not have to dig chunks of that stuff out of head

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