From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Wed Jan 1 09:46:19 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:12 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: <1041383814.1731.12.camel@gary.home.5045> from "Gary, Orlando" at Dec 31, 2002 08:16:53 PM Message-ID: <200301011446.JAA01635@swamps.roc.ny.us> This prompts a new question...how stable/accurate/repeatable is the governor on the NA pump. I've always dreamed of using an old engine out of one of my cars as a genset powerplant. A couple of questions should really be answered before attempting that. What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? Has anyone played with this concept? I just thought it would be a great way to let an old car continue to live, and get rid of the 40 year old propane powered genset. > That how I learned... by taking them apart. > > For a NA pump, the only 'calibrations' there are are: > -Timing, > -Max fueling > -Idle and max speed > These are the common ones we all know and love, > > and, > > -Governor Bleed. From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Wed Jan 1 11:22:10 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:12 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20030101155347.0066f7d0@mail.compmore.net> from "Sandy Cameron" at Jan 01, 2003 10:53:47 AM Message-ID: <200301011622.LAA02058@swamps.roc.ny.us> Nice find. I was figuring I'd take the trade with RPMs, keeping them lower, and go for a direct (beltless/gearless) connection. Anyone have the torque or power curves for one of the older NA diesel engines? For the generator...there are trashed gensets out there. My 40 yo Kohler could be the gen donor for this project. The advantages of using the old VW ticker is that we're already familiar with it. The disadvantages, include the size and noise. But at a reduced power load, old Bessie may run for a long time. The site Sandy found has a nice set of photos. Val > > Have a lookat this, esp. what he has to say. > I think you could pull 6-10 kw at 1800rpm, but his 2200 would be better. > I'm hoping to do something with one of my engines, but haven't found a 4 > pole generator yet. > > Sandy > > http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer/genset/ > > > > At 09:46 AM 1/1/03 -0500, you wrote: > >This prompts a new question...how stable/accurate/repeatable is the > >governor on the NA pump. I've always dreamed of using an old engine out > >of one of my cars as a genset powerplant. > > > >A couple of questions should really be answered before attempting > >that. What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the > >governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? > > > >Has anyone played with this concept? I just thought it would be a great > >way to let an old car continue to live, and get rid of the 40 year > >old propane powered genset. > > > > > >> That how I learned... by taking them apart. > >> > >> For a NA pump, the only 'calibrations' there are are: > >> -Timing, > >> -Max fueling > >> -Idle and max speed > >> These are the common ones we all know and love, > >> > >> and, > >> > >> -Governor Bleed. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >vwdiesel mailing list > >vwdiesel@vwfans.com > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > From r.c.brown at ieee.org Wed Jan 1 08:35:11 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:12 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use References: <200301011622.LAA02058@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <3E1318BF.4E3B525B@ieee.org> Val Christian wrote: > I was figuring I'd take the trade with RPMs, keeping them lower, and go for > a direct (beltless/gearless) connection. > > Anyone have the torque or power curves for one of the older NA diesel > engines? Some data on the SAE TD paper: http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/SAE/vwtdsae.shtml From amsnare at suscom.net Wed Jan 1 13:47:19 2003 From: amsnare at suscom.net (Adrian Snare) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:12 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fix, not Toss Message-ID: <001701c2b1c6$39abda40$47644e40@suscom.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Jeff , That is the great thing with Mercedes, Volvo, Volkswagen, and Saab -= many things can be repaired rather than thrown away as is the case with ch= eaper(and newer) stuff. But you must be a really good solderer with fine eq= uipment to work on a tiny relay. Adrian (aka earthworm) Two Diesel caddys One Mercedes 300D neither a conservative nor a liberal be -- From kysard55 at suscom.net Wed Jan 1 17:56:06 2003 From: kysard55 at suscom.net (Dave K) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:12 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] propane Message-ID: <002801c2b1e8$f9b4cd20$13654e40@suscom.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Has anyone experience with injecting propane to a 1.6NA? I moved to a hilly area and need a little power. Where would you inject the propane on the 1.6? Found this on ebay are these claims valid? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6764&item=1875949759 Dave Kysar -- From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Jan 1 16:57:01 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump problems---VW Rabbit 1980 ---and 1982-. Message-ID: <000001c2b1fb$a0a87f20$37ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Thank you ----that created this forum--------Fantastisk way to do it. I d= rive a 1982 Rabbit with 300 000 Km on speedo.-------No dealer in town ---= Ferry trip to nearest.-----solution ?--LOL DO IT YOURSELF . First the leak at the cold start ---stubshaft -----it has two "O" rings.--= -Thanks to Gary Orlando ----I am still driving. Then it was discovered that= the timing belt was ---sneaking towards the Radiator.------again Thank you= Orlando, Now using two pumps as follows ----068 - 130 - 107 - A -----a= nd AG. Found a dealer with 800 line ----Price qoute for pump -------------= ---------107AG --- 5000 dollars canadian . --LOL LOL am I being -----fed= a line ????. Keep up the good work ----I shall contrbute in future. -= -- PS ---just discovered your archive. -- From forrestking at juno.com Wed Jan 1 19:12:43 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump problems---VW Rabbit 1980 ---and 1982-. Message-ID: <20030101.191243.1360.0.forrestking@juno.com> you can type in plain english. You don't have to type it out like you are sending a telegram, there is no charge per word. Forrest On Wed, 1 Jan 2003 16:57:01 -0800 "H .Hagar" writes: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Thank you ----that created this forum--------Fantastisk way to do > it. I drive a 1982 Rabbit with 300 000 Km on speedo.-------No > dealer in town ---Ferry trip to nearest.-----solution ?--LOL DO IT > YOURSELF . > First the leak at the cold start ---stubshaft -----it has two "O" > rings.---Thanks to Gary Orlando ----I am still driving. Then it was > discovered that the timing belt was ---sneaking towards the > Radiator.------again Thank you Orlando, Now using two pumps as > follows ----068 - 130 - 107 - A -----and AG. Found a dealer > with 800 line ----Price qoute for pump ----------------------107AG > --- 5000 dollars canadian . --LOL LOL am I being -----fed a line > ????. Keep up the good work ----I shall contrbute in future. > --- PS ---just discovered your archive. > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Wed Jan 1 19:36:33 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: <200301011446.JAA01635@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: You need to take the pump into your friendly local Bosch shop and have them change the governor to a constant speed type- basically the full throttle rpm is set to your working speed. When the solenoid for generator load kicks in, it pulls the throttle lever wide open, which is then your working speed, not redline. I'm not sure if you can do this just with changes to the high idle rpm limit, IIRC it may be an internal governor adjustment. -James > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of Val Christian > Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 8:46 AM > To: Gary, Orlando > Cc: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use > > > This prompts a new question...how stable/accurate/repeatable is the > governor on the NA pump. I've always dreamed of using an old engine out > of one of my cars as a genset powerplant. > > A couple of questions should really be answered before attempting > that. What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the > governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? > > Has anyone played with this concept? I just thought it would be a great > way to let an old car continue to live, and get rid of the 40 year > old propane powered genset. > > > > That how I learned... by taking them apart. > > > > For a NA pump, the only 'calibrations' there are are: > > -Timing, > > -Max fueling > > -Idle and max speed > > These are the common ones we all know and love, > > > > and, > > > > -Governor Bleed. > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.416 / Virus Database: 232 - Release Date: 11/6/2002 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.416 / Virus Database: 232 - Release Date: 11/6/2002 From alstum at visuallink.com Thu Jan 2 10:38:59 2003 From: alstum at visuallink.com (Al Stumbaugh) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV Joint Boot Message-ID: <200301021538.h02FcxPN018322@localhost.localdomain> Had a shredded inner boot on the '84 Wabbit, on the short shaft, driver's side. Not sure why, it had not been on there that long. Took off the nut on the wheel end, jacked it up and put it on safety stands. Five of the tripple-square bolts came out but one was damaged. Got it out with a new pair of vice-grips, had a spare in the junk box. Then the shaft did not want to slide far enough to clear the tranny flange. Tried several things, finally pulled the bolt in the front, inner pivot of the control arm. Pried it aside a centemeter or so, and the CV shaft cleared! I did not want to take anything off on the hub end and have to get it aligned. Got the CV joint off and cleaned and lubed it. Dummy put the joint on backwards, so it would not mate to the tranny! Finally got it back together. Thought someone would benefit from my troubles. Clean the sockets of the tripple-square bolts, and tap the tool to make sure it has bottomed in the socket. Make sure you have a spare bolt or two, a spare tripple-square tool (I have had them fracture on me just before the torque wrench clicked) and be sure to use a torque wrench or you will not likely get them tight enough. Had one come off at speed on an old Datsun because the PO did not tighten them properly, was not pretty. My Two Cents! Al -- WebMail From nwall at opei.org Thu Jan 2 09:56:14 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Relays... References: Message-ID: <3E14530D.EEB4D285@opei.org> I've never experienced any sort of relay failure in my '85 Jetta TD (258,000 miles) --Nate Jeff Rakus wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Hello Everyone. > > I just wanted to see what experiences VW folks have had with relays. > In the Volvo world we seem to have problems with OD relays that start to > function erratically. This has turned out to be solder joints that have developed > very small fine cracks where the base spades solder into the circuit board. > I have saved myself buying a new relay by inspecting the connections and > resoldering them carefully to eliminate the cracks. After this procedure it worked > like new! So I was wondering if the vibration from the diesel engine could cause this in > our VW's. Thanks again for your help and support. > Jeff > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From nwall at opei.org Thu Jan 2 10:00:37 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tranny linkage bushing replacment References: <3E122BF2.C11FB44C@3web.net> Message-ID: <3E145415.F2BBC9B4@opei.org> Yes, there is a trick. Here it is: Remove all of the muffler hangers. Remove the cross brace (2 or 4 bolts) that the exhaust pipe rides above near the rear axle beam. Now swing the entire exhaust to one side and rest it on a stool, or the like (you can do this because of the ball socket pivot joint between the manifold and header pipe). The rear wheel may have to be removed for proper "swing" room, I forget. Now, the pipe is out of the way enough to drop the shifter out the bottom (after the resonator heat shield is removed). --Nate "cruiser.hj60" wrote: > Guys > I'm trying to fix a worn stickshift linkage in my 86 Jetta by replacing > some bushings. I also want to replace the ball and socket at the bottom > of the stickshift lever. Am I right that the exhaust system has to be > removed in order to get the stickshift out or am I off my rocker. > Perhaps there is some trick to this you experienced guys can tell me > before I start out on what looks like a lot of work under the car. > Thanks > Bill > Vancouver Canada > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From nwall at opei.org Thu Jan 2 10:23:20 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump problems---VW Rabbit 1980 ---and1982-. References: <000001c2b1fb$a0a87f20$37ccb5d0@prcn.org> <1041487409.8866.10.camel@gary.home.5045> Message-ID: <3E145968.34A48438@opei.org> Hey, for grins, about 8 years ago I called my local VW dealer and asked them how much a turbo was for my TD. They only sold new ones. They were $2,800, US dollars! Nate "Gary, Orlando" wrote: > CDN$5000 for a pump? What kind of crack are they smoking? > They must be quoting for a brand new pump. Then CDN$5000 is a dealer > price and is actually about right.( That is, if you believe stealer > prices are good... Ha!) > > This site, > https://webinsi5.securesites.com/vwdiesel/ordform.htm (no affiliation) > has rebuilt NA pumps for USD$395, Turbo for $495. > > There are other sites that offer rebuilds, just shop around. > > Have you checked with a local Bosch repair shop? Look up under trucking > repairs in the phone directory and then look for the Bosch symbol. Most > larger cities have a Bosch authorized work shop. The one I used in San > Diego had great prices and service. > > Good Luck, > -Gary, Orlando > > On Wed, 2003-01-01 at 19:57, H .Hagar wrote: > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > -- > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > Thank you ----that created this forum--------Fantastisk way to do it. I drive a 1982 Rabbit with 300 000 Km on speedo.-------No dealer in town ---Ferry trip to nearest.-----solution ?--LOL DO IT YOURSELF . > > First the leak at the cold start ---stubshaft -----it has two "O" rings.---Thanks to Gary Orlando ----I am still driving. Then it was discovered that the timing belt was ---sneaking towards the Radiator.------again Thank you Orlando, Now using two pumps as follows ----068 - 130 - 107 - A -----and AG. Found a dealer with 800 line ----Price qoute for pump ----------------------107AG --- 5000 dollars canadian . --LOL LOL am I being -----fed a line ????. Keep up the good work ----I shall contrbute in future. --- PS ---just discovered your archive. > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From LBaird119 at aol.com Thu Jan 2 23:34:16 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump problems---VW Rabbit 1980 ---and 1982-. Message-ID: <65.6162164.2b466cc8@aol.com> > Now using two pumps as follows ----068 - 130 - 107 - A -----and AG. Remember, these two pumps time at very different specs. Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Thu Jan 2 23:38:04 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use Message-ID: <79.617fb2f.2b466dac@aol.com> > What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the > governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? The gov is fairly stable but as said, take it in and have it set as an industrial type governor rather than automotive. Also adding a turbo, even with fairly low boost, will give you all the reasonable power you want. Just size the turbo for good boost at the desired rpm (1800). Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Thu Jan 2 23:47:14 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] where is temp gauge sensor supposed to go ? Message-ID: > The coolant temp gauge on our 85 Golf 1.6na diesel has been reading low. How's the fuel gauge? They usually aren't as noticeable but this could be a voltage stabilize problem. Easy to test with a DMM and the cluster out. > > Also, which sensor is supposed to be used by the coolant gauge and which by > the glow sensor? Bentley is unclear about this. The '85+ book seems to > infer (cannot find a direct, exact reference) the gauge sensor is the one at > the fitting attached to the side of the head which hose leads to radiator, > the pre 85 book seems to indicate the sensor used for gauge is at the end of > the block, nearest transmission. The sensors themselves are supposed to be > identical according to my FLAPS. The blue/white wire is for the glow plug > temp sensor. Usually both are on the end of the head and the one in the upper hose connector is for the A/C hi-temp cutoff. I've seen a few variations though. A/C wiring is generally green or brown. > > While I am here, another question: How can I tighten up the steering in the > Golf (200K + miles)? There is a lot of play in the steering wheel and the > RF Strut assy. was replaced due to a bent strut, the wheel assy. too. > Mechanic just got the whole thing at the wreckers. Now it goes "clunk-bang" > when backing or turning sharply. Also has a skittish unstable feel at > highway speeds though tracks straight as an arrow hands off at under 30mph. > Clunk, if it's somewhat light could be pads needing anti-rattle clips. Harder could be the upper strut mounts or lower ball joint. Have someone wiggle the steering wheel while you look through the whole steering. The lock bolts on the universal ended shafts, between the steering shaft and the firewall, inside the car, are often loose and clunk and slop. Rack could be worn but not often, inner or outer tie rod ends, strut mounts, struts, ball joints, control arm bushings. That's most of the possibilities. Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Fri Jan 3 01:09:32 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] (no subject) Message-ID: <12e.1f2a9cba.2b46831c@aol.com> The original stuff looks like the VW vacuum line only be sure it has the yellow stripe. No stripe and it's only vacuum hose. With the stripe and it's diesel injector hose. Loren In a message dated 12/30/2002 7:10:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, turbobrick@hotmail.com writes: > What are the spec's on the type of hose to use for the fuel lines > within the engine compartment in my Jetta DIESEL? > I want to make sure it's diesel copatable and the correct > pressure / and size rot resistance ect... From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Fri Jan 3 02:00:13 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: <79.617fb2f.2b466dac@aol.com> Message-ID: Is Jim Dunmeyer still around the list? He has a 1600D powered genset. I forget his web addy, anyone remember? I have it somewhere on the old computer... -James > > What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the > > governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? > > The gov is fairly stable but as said, take it in and have it set as an > industrial type governor rather than automotive. Also adding a turbo, > even with fairly low boost, will give you all the reasonable power you > want. Just size the turbo for good boost at the desired rpm (1800). > Loren > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.416 / Virus Database: 232 - Release Date: 11/6/2002 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.416 / Virus Database: 232 - Release Date: 11/6/2002 From hseaver at cybershamanix.com Fri Jan 3 08:42:28 2003 From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: References: <79.617fb2f.2b466dac@aol.com> Message-ID: <20030103144228.GA13246@cybershamanix.com> Somebody posted his page here the other day. You can find it at http://oldengine.com On Fri, Jan 03, 2003 at 02:00:13AM -0600, James Hansen wrote: > Is Jim Dunmeyer still around the list? He has a 1600D powered genset. I > forget his web addy, anyone remember? I have it somewhere on the old > computer... > -James > > > > > What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the > > > governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? > > > > The gov is fairly stable but as said, take it in and have it set as an > > industrial type governor rather than automotive. Also adding a turbo, > > even with fairly low boost, will give you all the reasonable power you > > want. Just size the turbo for good boost at the desired rpm (1800). > > Loren > > _______________________________________________ -- Harmon Seaver CyberShamanix http://www.cybershamanix.com From hseaver at cybershamanix.com Fri Jan 3 09:25:08 2003 From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: <20030103144228.GA13246@cybershamanix.com> References: <79.617fb2f.2b466dac@aol.com> <20030103144228.GA13246@cybershamanix.com> Message-ID: <20030103152508.GB13785@cybershamanix.com> Although I forgot to add that I thought that was a pretty crummy genset conversion. He should have used a 1800rpm generator or induction motor and ran it straight off the crank rather than belt arrangement. I had a sawmill running off a vw industrial engine with multiple belts -- they don't last that long when you're running it all day. Of course, just for intermitent emergency use it's okay, but not for a cogen unit. Expensive and hard to keep aligned. On Fri, Jan 03, 2003 at 08:42:28AM -0600, Harmon Seaver wrote: > Somebody posted his page here the other day. You can find it at > http://oldengine.com > > > On Fri, Jan 03, 2003 at 02:00:13AM -0600, James Hansen wrote: > > Is Jim Dunmeyer still around the list? He has a 1600D powered genset. I > > forget his web addy, anyone remember? I have it somewhere on the old > > computer... > > -James > > > > > > > > What is the power available at 1800 RPM? How stable is the > > > > governor, and can it be adjusted down to 1800 RPM? > > > > > > The gov is fairly stable but as said, take it in and have it set as an > > > industrial type governor rather than automotive. Also adding a turbo, > > > even with fairly low boost, will give you all the reasonable power you > > > want. Just size the turbo for good boost at the desired rpm (1800). > > > Loren > > > _______________________________________________ > > -- > Harmon Seaver > CyberShamanix > http://www.cybershamanix.com > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel -- Harmon Seaver CyberShamanix http://www.cybershamanix.com From maded at gte.net Fri Jan 3 11:41:15 2003 From: maded at gte.net (maded) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: <20030103152508.GB13785@cybershamanix.com> Message-ID: I thought it was possible to select a belt or cogged belt for most any application that would run for thousands of hours. I am sure the sales people at Gates would claim such anyway. Probably not a cheap solution though. So you can use an induction motor as a generator? Like an alternator? How do you "excite" it or is it "self exciting" :-) -- Ed Lowe, Seattle 82 Westy diesel upgrading to 1.9td 85 Golf diesel 92 Cabrio 97 Passat Tdi > From: Harmon Seaver > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 09:25:08 -0600 > > Although I forgot to add that I thought that was a pretty crummy genset > conversion. He should have used a 1800rpm generator or induction motor and ran > it straight off the crank rather than belt arrangement. I had a sawmill > running > off a vw industrial engine with multiple belts -- they don't last that long > when > you're running it all day. From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Fri Jan 3 18:31:27 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Change in Tools? Message-ID: <200301032331.SAA20938@swamps.roc.ny.us> I've had almost a dozen A1s, still own an A2, but just bought a A4. I'm wondering what kind of changes I need to my tool box. As near as I can tell: -serpentine belt tool -5mm allen socket for timeing belt cover -VAG-COM, or something similar Anyone care to offer their hints as to what I might want to get to augment the tools box with? For example, are injectors still 27mm, what are the fasteners in the head. Any other special tools for general service, etc. Oh, I have an 8mm triple square, which it appears may also be used for doors, vs older inner CV joints. Thanks for your thoughts. From TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 18:15:13 2003 From: TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Change in Tools? References: <200301032331.SAA20938@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: 19mm socket or wrench for the oil plug. 76mm / 14 flute oil filter wrench. T-25 Torx for the belly pan Chris Thornton 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x ----- Original Message ----- From: "Val Christian" To: Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 5:31 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] Change in Tools? > I've had almost a dozen A1s, still own an A2, but just bought a A4. > I'm wondering what kind of changes I need to my tool box. > > As near as I can tell: > > -serpentine belt tool > -5mm allen socket for timeing belt cover > -VAG-COM, or something similar > > Anyone care to offer their hints as to what I might want to get to augment > the tools box with? > > For example, are injectors still 27mm, what are the fasteners in > the head. Any other special tools for general service, etc. > > Oh, I have an 8mm triple square, which it appears may also be used for > doors, vs older inner CV joints. > > Thanks for your thoughts. From milleraw at comcast.net Fri Jan 3 20:52:13 2003 From: milleraw at comcast.net (Andrew Miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Drakar...anyone watching Message-ID: <24DFB5CE-1F87-11D7-ABC1-0003938F7A60@comcast.net> Hey, Just caught the first three days of the race on Speed Channel. The VW Terek had some major oops' early on. If you can catch the few shots they have of the tereks and the diesel BMW....The sound is worth the wait. Andy From magnificationbill at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 22:31:17 2003 From: magnificationbill at hotmail.com (Bill Kelly) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1991 Ecodiesel Questions Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Hi all ! Hope everyone's New Year is off to a good start - My ECO ( now 205K miles ) runs COOL.....eighty mph on the interstate ( where I use it most ) and the needle is barely up from the cold/far left....it will move up to the middle in extended heavy traffic. Cooling system is in EC. I'm thinking of changeing the thermostat.Where's the best place to get one ? Other ideas ? Item two has been ocurring for some time -after several hours on the interstate, I notice the dipstick has levitated an inch or so from the " fully in " position. It doesn't seem to be loose/broken - not overfilled w/ oil. Ideas ? Oil viscosity - I'm using 20W 50 Castrol, always have. Would 30 weight be better in this weather ( approx. 35-60 degrees ) ? Any suggestions ? Thanks ! Sincerely, Bill Kelly ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMBEN/2018 From hseaver at cybershamanix.com Fri Jan 3 22:16:21 2003 From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector Pump Speed Stability & Genset Use In-Reply-To: References: <20030103152508.GB13785@cybershamanix.com> Message-ID: <20030104041621.GA14252@cybershamanix.com> On Fri, Jan 03, 2003 at 11:41:15AM -0800, maded wrote: > I thought it was possible to select a belt or cogged belt for most any > application that would run for thousands of hours. I am sure the sales > people at Gates would claim such anyway. Probably not a cheap solution > though. Maybe. My experiences with belts tho has left me with a total dislike of them. If they worked so good, I'd think you'd see a lot more bikes (and even bicycles) using them instead of chains. For converting an car engine to a genset however, I'd much rather use the clutch and the tranny mainshaft -- maybe even just gut the tranny and use it, no problems with alignment there. > So you can use an induction motor as a generator? Like an > alternator? How do you "excite" it or is it "self exciting" :-) > Yup, induction motor/generators are the best there are. No brushes to wear out or use up hp. To turn an induction motor into a generator, you just overspeed it. Like if it's a 1800rpm, you run it at 1850. It needs to have a load tho. Works great for hooking up to your house to turn your electric meter backwards. You can use the grid as a battery, just like solar. The induction motor will see the waveform and frequency of the grid and conform to it. Although if you're going to do that, you'd want a good relay system so if the grid goes down, you're automatically disconnected. And also a good govenor so your engine doesn't wind out suddenly when there's no load. If you do it right -- and live in a state with net metering laws *and* get the power company's approval, etc. -- and run the engine on either woodgas or biodiesel or ethanol, you can even get paid for the power you produce. In WI, for instance, you get retail rate if your genset is no more than 20KW, and you can run it 24/7 getting paid the whole time. > > -- > Ed Lowe, Seattle > 82 Westy diesel upgrading to 1.9td > 85 Golf diesel > 92 Cabrio > 97 Passat Tdi > > From: Harmon Seaver > > Date: Fri, 3 Jan 2003 09:25:08 -0600 > > > > > Although I forgot to add that I thought that was a pretty crummy genset > > conversion. He should have used a 1800rpm generator or induction motor and ran > > it straight off the crank rather than belt arrangement. I had a sawmill > > running > > off a vw industrial engine with multiple belts -- they don't last that long > > when > > you're running it all day. -- Harmon Seaver CyberShamanix http://www.cybershamanix.com From LBaird119 at aol.com Fri Jan 3 23:40:49 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1991 Ecodiesel Questions Message-ID: <102.22c894f5.2b47bfd1@aol.com> > My ECO ( now 205K miles ) runs COOL.....eighty mph on the interstate ( where > I use it most ) and the needle is barely up from the cold/far left....it will > move up to the middle in extended heavy traffic. Cooling system is in EC. I'm > thinking of changeing the thermostat.Where's the best place to get one ? > Other ideas ? Does sound like a bad thermostat. There are many places to buy one but generally your local auto parts store is NOT the place to do it. The opening is usually much smaller than the OEM stats. > > Item two has been ocurring for some time -after several hours on the > interstate, I notice the dipstick has levitated an inch or so from the " > fully > in " position. It doesn't seem to be loose/broken - not overfilled w/ oil. > Ideas ? Blowby could be excessive or the screen in the valve cover could be clogged from incorrect oil buildup (coking). It's possible the dipstick just isn't fitting snugly. The red part it clips into tends to crack which will make for a loose fit. Those are also available. > > Oil viscosity - I'm using 20W 50 Castrol, always have. Would 30 weight be > better in this weather ( approx. 35-60 degrees ) ? Any suggestions ? Thanks ! > Is that a diesel rated oil? Most Castrol products aren't. I've always run 15W/40 year round with no problems. Synthetic isn't a bad thing and several people run it. I just haven't gotten around to trying it yet. Just be SURE you have a "C" rating on the oil you use. The higher the second letter in the "C" designation, the better. Loren From TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 23:15:54 2003 From: TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1991 Ecodiesel Questions References: Message-ID: 20w-50 sure is thick! I'd switch to a 15w-40. But I'd bet it's the thermostat that's making your car run too cool. Chris Thornton 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Kelly" To: Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 9:31 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1991 Ecodiesel Questions > [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > > Hi all ! > > Hope everyone's New Year is off to a good start - > > My ECO ( now 205K miles ) runs COOL.....eighty mph on the interstate ( where I > use it most ) and the needle is barely up from the cold/far left....it will > move up to the middle in extended heavy traffic. Cooling system is in EC. I'm > thinking of changeing the thermostat.Where's the best place to get one ? Other > ideas ? > > Item two has been ocurring for some time -after several hours on the > interstate, I notice the dipstick has levitated an inch or so from the " fully > in " position. It doesn't seem to be loose/broken - not overfilled w/ oil. > Ideas ? > > Oil viscosity - I'm using 20W 50 Castrol, always have. Would 30 weight be > better in this weather ( approx. 35-60 degrees ) ? Any suggestions ? Thanks ! > > Sincerely, > > Bill Kelly From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sat Jan 4 00:50:09 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1991 Ecodiesel Questions In-Reply-To: <102.22c894f5.2b47bfd1@aol.com> from "LBaird119@aol.com" at Jan 03, 2003 11:40:49 PM Message-ID: <200301040550.AAA23865@swamps.roc.ny.us> > > My ECO ( now 205K miles ) runs COOL.....eighty mph on the interstate ( ... > Does sound like a bad thermostat. There are many places to buy one but > generally your local auto parts store is NOT the place to do it. The opening > is usually much smaller than the OEM stats. As others have recently heard with my cracked block story, other factors in the thermostat construction are factors. Like the rivet and reinforcement of the valve plate at the rear of the thermostat. It's ugly when the retaining rivet fails and that plate works it's way into the water pump. From dieseltdi at earthlink.net Sat Jan 4 14:30:44 2003 From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (dieseltdi@earthlink.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Propane injection testing - pros and cons - Long Message-ID: Well now that the holidays are finally over and things have settled down a bit,I finally have a chance to update you all on the two propane systems that I have tested in my Jetta. First of description of the two systems and how they performed. Import Power Online system - This system works similar to a NOx injection system. When a Hobbs switch senses boost of 10 lbs or so, it singles a valve to open letting propane enter the manifold and giving a substantial boost of power. I found out by trial and error, that a gas pressure of around 10 psi was sufficient to give a good boost of power without being harsh and jerky. Increase in power is very noticable and I smoked the tires in 1st and 2nd gear on one occasion. Main drawback is the 10 psi HObbs switch. I think that a lower pressure, say 5-7 lbs would be better for our TDIs. I also think that this system could be easily adapted to even a NA diesel if the flow rates were kept VERY low and a simple throttle activated switch was used. In my case I drove the car 1585 miles with this system and consumed 39 gallons of diesel/biodiesel and about 2 gallons of propane (I used a small BBQ style tank for the gas supply). This gives me a MPG of 40.6 mpg. It should be noted that 700 miles of this amount was highway driving at constant speed while the rest was in town. Welsh Technologies Mizer dual fuel system - This system is VERY different from the IMport system. It is engineered to supply a small amount of propane to the engine at all running speeds. There is a low flow for idle and a running curcuit for speed. The effect of this system is more subtle. Because the propane is ALWAYS on there is an increase in power across the board, you just don't realize it until you disconnect the system. I did have to make an adaption to get the system to work on the TDI. It is designed to have a throttle switch trigger the high speed curcuit on the controler to increase the flow of propane. Obviously we have no throttle so I installed a 2 psi Hobbs switch as the trigger for high speed running. If you have a boost gauge on your car, you know that the TDI achieves 2 psi very rapidly. The results were for 1797 miles driven I consumed 44.7 gallons of diesel/biodiesel giving me a 40.2 mpg rating. I firmly believe that the slight difference in the two systems MPG was due to the large amount of highway driving on the Import system. I only had 325 highway miles on the Welsh system. I consumed more propane 3-4 gallons or so because the system is on all of the time. My current propane supply is a 10.3 gallon RV tank mounted in the trunk. Unfortunately, I have recently learned that this is an illegal mounting and I will be replacing the tank with one specifically designed for the interior space of cars. BTW the Welsh system is touted as giving you a tax break during the year that you install the system. That is true as long as the sytem is permanently installed and has an approved fuel tank. These approved fuel tanks are $300 dollars! So which system is best? WEll that depends. If you are looking for something that will give you a noticible boost when you need it and is not present at other times, then the Import system is best. If however, you are looking for a system that not only gives more power BUT lowers emissions at the same time qualifying your car as a clean fuel car And you don't mind a higher expense, then the Welsh technologies system is for you. BTW for those of you with pickups, the Welsh tech system can still qualify you for the credit if you install an RV style tank in the bed of the pickup. ONly cars have to have the special tanks because it is necessary to make sure all fumes are vented OUTSIDE the engine compartment. Well there you have it. The Mizer system will stay installed in my 98 Jetta and the Other system with be put into my Caddy later on. If you have any questions feel free to ask. hayden -- Visit my homepage at http://home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI, Upsolute Powerbox 98 Jetta TDI Wetterauer chipset, Dual Fuel Propane system 98 Jetta TDI, Speed Tuning Chipset (daughter's car) 87 Scirocco 16v (son's car, gas :^P) 81 VW Rabbit Pickup (Caddy, Diesel of course, awaiting a TD engine transplant) And many, many water cooled and aircooled VW cars now departed or sold. From alstum at visuallink.com Sat Jan 4 18:19:50 2003 From: alstum at visuallink.com (Al Stumbaugh) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset Message-ID: <200301042319.h04NJox8023022@localhost.localdomain> Sorry folks, an induction motor cannot be used as a generator or an alternator. You need a rotating magnetic field on the shaft to induce voltages in the coils that do not rotate. Induction motors do not have this. The magnetic field in the rotor is induced by the static coils. There are brushless alternators that use coils in the stator (part that does not rotate) and diodes and coils on the rotating shaft to set up the rotating magnetic field. Some DC series wound motors can be switched over to make a DC generator but these units are very rare. They use brushes and a commutator to turn the coils on and off as the shaft rotates to get the desired rotating magnetic field. Most alternators on Gensets are pretty much like the one in your car, only on steroids. The output frequency is proportional to the number of coils in the stator and the RPM of the shaft. Of course the diodes in your car alternator turn the AC into DC so your electrical system will work. As to "V" belts vs. toothed belts, each belt is rated at a certain horsepower at a certain speed. A several KW Genset alternator would likely need a matched set of three or four large "V" belts. Sorry for the semi-off topic. Regards, Al -- WebMail From gerry.wolfe at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 4 17:35:15 2003 From: gerry.wolfe at sympatico.ca (Gerry Wolfe) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset References: <200301042319.h04NJox8023022@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <000701c2b441$8fdb8f00$ec26fea9@celeron> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Stumbaugh" To: Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 6:19 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset ... > Some DC series wound motors can be switched > over to make a DC generator but these units > are very rare. They use brushes and a > commutator to turn the coils on and off > as the shaft rotates to get the desired > rotating magnetic field. ... Just got rid of my old sailboat :-( which had one of these... It had a gasoline Vire marine motor with a Bosch Dynastart. The Dynastart was connected to the crank via v-belt. When electicity was applied from the battery the Dynastart functioned as a starter motor. I'm assuming there was some sort of a governor, since once the motor started then the Dynastart then became a DC generator. Didn't put out much juice, but then (being a sailing purist) not a lot was needed... rgds and thanks to all the smarter and better-looking folks on the n'group for their collective wisdoms... ___________ ____________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From hseaver at cybershamanix.com Sat Jan 4 17:30:12 2003 From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset In-Reply-To: <200301042319.h04NJox8023022@localhost.localdomain> References: <200301042319.h04NJox8023022@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20030104233012.GA14874@cybershamanix.com> On Sat, Jan 04, 2003 at 06:19:50PM -0500, Al Stumbaugh wrote: > Sorry folks, an induction motor cannot be > used as a generator or an alternator. Duh! Tell this to all the people already using them as generators, eh? You might start with the windpower industry. From hseaver at cybershamanix.com Sat Jan 4 17:35:56 2003 From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset In-Reply-To: <200301042319.h04NJox8023022@localhost.localdomain> References: <200301042319.h04NJox8023022@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20030104233556.GB14874@cybershamanix.com> Check this out: http://home.carolina.rr.com/unclejoe/induction.html or this: http://www.scs-www.com/Igc.html or this: http://www.qsl.net/ns8o/Induction_Generator.html Have fun! 8-) -- Harmon Seaver CyberShamanix http://www.cybershamanix.com From turbobrick at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 00:41:30 2003 From: turbobrick at hotmail.com (Jeff Rakus) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. Message-ID: HI, everyone, I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it would run for a while and stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Cleaning up the relay for the glow plugs helped butthe engine would still stumble and die. Would you think that it could be in need of a fuel filter? The injectors have been cleaned. The light on the temp gauge flashes after it starts. This is when the engine is still cold. The engine has been replaced and so the wiring has to be checked to make sure all the connections have been made correctly. The temperatures today have been in the mid 30's. Thanks in advance. Jeff _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sat Jan 4 20:23:24 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. In-Reply-To: from "Jeff Rakus" at Jan 05, 2003 12:41:30 AM Message-ID: <200301050123.UAA04472@swamps.roc.ny.us> Do you have a clear line going from your fuel filter to the injector pump? Is fuel flowing. It sounds like it could be fuel starvation. The temp gauge flashing is something I can't figure out. Perhaps a wiring problem. Any chance that you have a wiring problem to the injector pump solenoid? I still think fuel starvation, based upon what you've written. > > HI, everyone, > > I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it would run for > a while and > stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Cleaning up the relay for > the > glow plugs helped butthe engine would still stumble and die. Would you think > that it could > be in need of a fuel filter? The injectors have been cleaned. The light on > the temp gauge > flashes after it starts. This is when the engine is still cold. The engine > has been replaced > and so the wiring has to be checked to make sure all the connections have > been > made correctly. The temperatures today have been in the mid 30's. > Thanks in advance. > Jeff > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From gerry.wolfe at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 4 21:02:48 2003 From: gerry.wolfe at sympatico.ca (Gerry Wolfe) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. References: <200301050123.UAA04472@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <001401c2b45e$8bfc79e0$ec26fea9@celeron> Temp gauge light flashing (in my '91 Jetta TD) means low coolant or overheat. rgds, g. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Val Christian" To: "Jeff Rakus" Cc: Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. > Do you have a clear line going from your fuel filter to the injector pump? > Is fuel flowing. It sounds like it could be fuel starvation. > > The temp gauge flashing is something I can't figure out. Perhaps a > wiring problem. Any chance that you have a wiring problem to the > injector pump solenoid? > > I still think fuel starvation, based upon what you've written. > > > > > HI, everyone, > > > > I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it would run for > > a while and > > stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Cleaning up the relay for > > the > > glow plugs helped butthe engine would still stumble and die. Would you think > > that it could > > be in need of a fuel filter? The injectors have been cleaned. The light on > > the temp gauge > > flashes after it starts. This is when the engine is still cold. The engine > > has been replaced > > and so the wiring has to be checked to make sure all the connections have > > been > > made correctly. The temperatures today have been in the mid 30's. > > Thanks in advance. > > Jeff > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From forrestking at juno.com Sat Jan 4 20:52:31 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. Message-ID: <20030104.205232.2732.0.forrestking@juno.com> means either - check your coolant level, if the coolant level is OK, and the temp guage is OK, you might consider the sensor bad. I drove for 20k miles with that damn ligh blinking before i finally got a sensor that would turn it off. Don't buy your Coolant Level Sensor at the Local AutoZone or O'reillys, theirs just don't provide the right electrical signal, I know I tried 3 of them before breakin don and trying an OEM one - it turned the light off. On Sat, 4 Jan 2003 21:02:48 -0500 "Gerry Wolfe" writes: > Temp gauge light flashing (in my '91 Jetta TD) means low coolant or > overheat. > > rgds, g. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Val Christian" > To: "Jeff Rakus" > Cc: > Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 8:23 PM > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. > > > > Do you have a clear line going from your fuel filter to the > injector pump? > > Is fuel flowing. It sounds like it could be fuel starvation. > > > > The temp gauge flashing is something I can't figure out. Perhaps > a > > wiring problem. Any chance that you have a wiring problem to the > > injector pump solenoid? > > > > I still think fuel starvation, based upon what you've written. > > > > > > > > HI, everyone, > > > > > > I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it > would run > for > > > a while and > > > stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Cleaning up the > relay > for > > > the > > > glow plugs helped butthe engine would still stumble and die. > Would you > think > > > that it could > > > be in need of a fuel filter? The injectors have been cleaned. > The light > on > > > the temp gauge > > > flashes after it starts. This is when the engine is still cold. > The > engine > > > has been replaced > > > and so the wiring has to be checked to make sure all the > connections > have > > > been > > > made correctly. The temperatures today have been in the mid > 30's. > > > Thanks in advance. > > > Jeff > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* > > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From LBaird119 at aol.com Sat Jan 4 23:10:09 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. Message-ID: <8c.21fc9384.2b490a21@aol.com> > I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it would run for > a while and > stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Take a look at the fuel line to the pump. It is originally clear. If there are bubbles then that's the problem, an air leak. It could be the fuel filter but at just an idle it'd have to be pretty bad. You can pull it and dump it into a pan or jar and see what comes out. Most likely I'd expect it to be an air leak somewhere in the lines. Does winding the engine out when you first start it help? Or does it still sputter and die the same? Often winding it out will carry it through the air in the pump and also pump fuel faster and get it running smoothly. Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Sat Jan 4 23:13:02 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset Message-ID: <78.349fd263.2b490ace@aol.com> > > Sorry folks, an induction motor cannot be > > used as a generator or an alternator. > > Duh! Tell this to all the people already using them as generators, eh? > You > might start with the windpower industry. > So a permanent magnet motor is an induction motor? (So many terms!) I have a Yamaha 100 motorbike that has a starter/generator on it. Not terribly impressive but to have a bike in 1970 that started with the push of a button was pretty cool! Dad said his leg must've been tired the day he bought it! ;-) It never really compared to his Hodaka 90. Loren From dsnyder at goodnet.com Sat Jan 4 21:35:41 2003 From: dsnyder at goodnet.com (Dave Snyder) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Engine Questions In-Reply-To: <78.349fd263.2b490ace@aol.com> Message-ID: OK, I pulled out my motor and I have found the death rattle's cause. It spun a rod bearing. I'm thinking of going with a rebuild of the 1.6TD instead of buying the 1.9 TD Shortblock. So, questions abound! Not really, just three! 1) Does the 1983 1.6 TD motor use the same crankshaft as a 1.6NA motor? How about a 1.5 motor? 2) For four oversized German TD pistons with rings, I'm getting quoted just under $500 locally. Does anyone out there know of or have a source for these with a little better price? 3) How can I tell if the bearings in the turbo are wearing out? (Factory TD) Thanks in advance! Dave in Phoenix From r.c.brown at ieee.org Sat Jan 4 20:40:26 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Genset References: <78.349fd263.2b490ace@aol.com> Message-ID: <3E17B73A.1BDE2E82@ieee.org> LBaird119@aol.com wrote: > > > > Sorry folks, an induction motor cannot be > > > used as a generator or an alternator. > > > > Duh! Tell this to all the people already using them as generators, eh? > > You > > might start with the windpower industry. > > > So a permanent magnet motor is an induction motor? (So many terms!) An induction motor is an alternating current motor in which the primary winding on one member (usually the stator) is connected to the power source and a secondary winding or a squirrel-cage secondary winding on the other member (usually the rotor) carries the induced current. There is no physical electrical connection to the secondary winding, its current is "induced" across the air gap between the stator and rotor, thus the term induction. Several forms of permanent magnet motors, one is putting the magnets on the rotor and this makes it synchronous to the applied field. Also DC PM motors, usually w/ magnet on the outside (stator) and the typical brush (or brushless) commutator to make the rotor move inside the field. HEre's a page on adding magnets to the rotor of an induction motor to convert it to an alternator: http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_experiments_motor_convert.html From bhfarms at suscom-maine.net Sun Jan 5 06:52:28 2003 From: bhfarms at suscom-maine.net (Bill Truesdell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. References: Message-ID: <3E181C7C.9080102@suscom-maine.net> It could be water in the fuel. When it freezes in the fuel line it gives just those symptoms and will not always cause the glowplug light to flash. Or it could be a leaking head gasket, which would also explain the flashing coolant light. It is low. Bill Truesdell Bath, Me Jeff Rakus wrote: > HI, everyone, > > I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it would > run for > a while and > stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Cleaning up the relay > for > the > glow plugs helped butthe engine would still stumble and die. Would you > think > that it could > be in need of a fuel filter? The injectors have been cleaned. The > light on > the temp gauge > flashes after it starts. This is when the engine is still cold. The > engine > has been replaced > and so the wiring has to be checked to make sure all the connections have > been > made correctly. The temperatures today have been in the mid 30's. > Thanks in advance. > Jeff > From magnificationbill at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 08:38:24 2003 From: magnificationbill at hotmail.com (Bill Kelly) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] GTI/16V Grille Kit.... Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I think that's what we call it....I now have one for my Ecodiesel ( '91).....Has anyone installed one of these kits ? It's complete: H4's( 4 each - inboards are " driving lights " ), rad support, ect. How much time does the install take for a competent person ? How 'bout a Doofus ? ( I'm not telling which applies to me ! ) I have the normal 55W bulbs, so I do not anticipate any relay upgrades...... Hints and tips would be appreciated...... Sincerely, Bill Kelly 91 ECO/205K or thereabouts.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMSEN/2020 From gerry.wolfe at sympatico.ca Sun Jan 5 09:51:35 2003 From: gerry.wolfe at sympatico.ca (Gerry Wolfe) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] GTI/16V Grille Kit.... References: Message-ID: <001601c2b4c9$f1be4540$5b20fea9@celeron> I have one in my '91 Jetta TD. Took about 2 hr to install (I'm semi-doofus). The only glitch I came across was that the hood latch on the original rad support was rivetted on. Had to do the dremel thing and drill a couple of holes and screw it into the new rad support. Mine has H4 (high/low) 7" lights outboard and H1 (high only) inboard driving lights. High/lows also have a 5 watt "city light" that I have never connected. I initially used the original wiring and then later went to relays, fuses and 12ga wiring all the way thru. A significant difference in output. The light is much "whiter" if that's possible. Output from the H4 high beams is such that I rarely find the need to use the driving lights, even on the highway without traffic and speed concerns. I also have a pair of Bosch 150 foglights mounted below the bumper. They also have the same wiring components. BTW, unlike BMW and Pontiac Grand Am and SUV drivers, I find no need for them in the daytime or when it's not foggy. Must be a difference in perspective or somethin'. rgds, g. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Kelly" To: Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 8:38 AM Subject: [Vwdiesel] GTI/16V Grille Kit.... > [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > > I think that's what we call it....I now have one for my Ecodiesel ( > '91).....Has anyone installed one of these kits ? It's complete: H4's( 4 each > - inboards are " driving lights " ), rad support, ect. How much time does the > install take for a competent person ? How 'bout a Doofus ? ( I'm not telling > which applies to me ! ) > > I have the normal 55W bulbs, so I do not anticipate any relay upgrades...... > > Hints and tips would be appreciated...... > > Sincerely, > > Bill Kelly > > 91 ECO/205K or thereabouts.... > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*[1] > > ===References:=== > 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMSEN/2020 > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From nwall at opei.org Sun Jan 5 16:11:17 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (nwall@opei.org) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Engine Questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1041801077.3e189f7531ca3@webmail.dsl.net> #1) Loren said the NA and the TD cranks may be different (hardened journals on the TD)? But I'd imagine you can use either. #3) Some people say to check the radial (side-to-side play on the compressor wheel. And That it should be non-existent. I do not think that's the case. The bearings are "floating" types (float in their journals). My rebuilt turbo had very noticiable play, and the BRAND NEW Garret turbo I just bought has the same play (Made in the mid 80s), so that logic will not work. My way is to answer: "does the compressor or turbine wheel rub the housing?" and "Is the turbo noisy?" At 100, 000 miles on a turbo rebuild (originally had it professionally rebuilt at '87,000 miles because the motor was using a quart of oil every 750 miles, the rebuild did not help at all!--little did I know the motor had a broken ring, which I discovered about 130,000 miles later on a teardown!!!!!, I pulled my turbo and installed a rebuilt cartridge (the turbo was noisy at a certain RPM range, a balance problem from the rebuilder, I think. (its second rebuild) and I disassembled the old cartridge. Well, ALL most of the babbit metal was gone from the bearings and the shaft was pretty worn looking. --Nate Quoting Dave Snyder : > OK, I pulled out my motor and I have found the death rattle's cause. > > It spun a rod bearing. I'm thinking of going with a rebuild of the 1.6TD > instead of buying the 1.9 TD Shortblock. > > So, questions abound! Not really, just three! > > 1) Does the 1983 1.6 TD motor use the same crankshaft as a 1.6NA motor? > How > about a 1.5 motor? > > 2) For four oversized German TD pistons with rings, I'm getting quoted > just > under $500 locally. Does anyone out there know of or have a source for > these with a little better price? > > 3) How can I tell if the bearings in the turbo are wearing out? (Factory > TD) > > Thanks in advance! > > Dave in Phoenix > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From nwall at opei.org Sun Jan 5 16:36:59 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (nwall@opei.org) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. In-Reply-To: <20030104.205232.2732.0.forrestking@juno.com> References: <20030104.205232.2732.0.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <1041802619.3e18a57b1e5b5@webmail.dsl.net> I bought my coolant level sensor (on 2 occassions) from Olympic Import Parts for about $8. No problems whatsoever (I had to replace it the second time because it was leaking slightly because it loosened up (or its "O" ring compressed), and I broke it by tightening it too much). The dealer wants about $20 - $28. --Nate Quoting Forrest L King : > means either - check your coolant level, if the coolant level is OK, > and the temp guage is OK, you might consider the sensor bad. I drove > for 20k miles with that damn ligh blinking before i finally got a sensor > that would turn it off. Don't buy your Coolant Level Sensor at the > Local AutoZone or O'reillys, theirs just don't provide the right > electrical signal, I know I tried 3 of them before breakin don and trying > an OEM one - it turned the light off. > > > > > On Sat, 4 Jan 2003 21:02:48 -0500 "Gerry Wolfe" > writes: > > Temp gauge light flashing (in my '91 Jetta TD) means low coolant or > > overheat. > > > > rgds, g. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Val Christian" > > To: "Jeff Rakus" > > Cc: > > Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 8:23 PM > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Cold weather stalling. > > > > > > > Do you have a clear line going from your fuel filter to the > > injector pump? > > > Is fuel flowing. It sounds like it could be fuel starvation. > > > > > > The temp gauge flashing is something I can't figure out. Perhaps > > a > > > wiring problem. Any chance that you have a wiring problem to the > > > injector pump solenoid? > > > > > > I still think fuel starvation, based upon what you've written. > > > > > > > > > > > HI, everyone, > > > > > > > > I got my Jetta diesel started after four or five tries and it > > would run > > for > > > > a while and > > > > stumble even with the timing "T" handle all out. Cleaning up the > > relay > > for > > > > the > > > > glow plugs helped butthe engine would still stumble and die. > > Would you > > think > > > > that it could > > > > be in need of a fuel filter? The injectors have been cleaned. > > The light > > on > > > > the temp gauge > > > > flashes after it starts. This is when the engine is still cold. > > The > > engine > > > > has been replaced > > > > and so the wiring has to be checked to make sure all the > > connections > > have > > > > been > > > > made correctly. The temperatures today have been in the mid > > 30's. > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Jeff > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > > > MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* > > > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today > Only $9.95 per month! > Visit www.juno.com > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From LBaird119 at aol.com Sun Jan 5 17:33:13 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Engine Questions Message-ID: <127.1ed29944.2b4a0ca9@aol.com> > #3) Some people say to check the radial (side-to-side play on the > compressor wheel. And That it should be non-existent. I do not think that's > the case. The bearings are "floating" types (float in their journals). My > rebuilt turbo had very noticeable play, and the BRAND NEW Garret turbo I > just > bought has the same play (Made in the mid 80s), so that logic will not work. As I understand it, it's the (axial?) play that should be pretty well non existent (end to end). There is always some (radial?) play (side to side). You just don't want enough to let the compressor wheel touch the housing or close. With 4 bearing "gaps" per end instead of 2, there will definitely be some play. Loren From teacher525 at juno.com Sun Jan 5 15:35:32 2003 From: teacher525 at juno.com (Milton Kaplan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Injection Pump locking hole Message-ID: <20030105.153538.-857487.0.teacher525@juno.com> I recently had an 86 1.6TD Jetta installed in my Caddy. Will be installing cruise control and tachometer based on Roger Browns pages using a face plate glued on the sprocket. I need to make holes in face plate first before gluing in, to allow insertion of pump locking tool for later maintenance. There are all different size holes in this sprocket. Some have advised using a 7/16 Craftsman deep 1/4 inch socket as locking pin. Does someone know the actual pin size, closest SAE? I have a 1/4 inch deep socket not craftsman. Its 21/32 and slightly too big to fit the smallest hole in the sprocket. There is just one small hole in the sprocket. Does this sound like the correct hole? Why only one small hole? The other holes in the sprocket are much bigger. Although I didn't see the inside alignment hole on the pump, I assume it is hidden by the current sprocket position. Or am I looking at the wrong hole for locking in the sprocket for the Jetta TD pump? ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From teacher525 at juno.com Sun Jan 5 15:45:18 2003 From: teacher525 at juno.com (Milton Kaplan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Injection Pump locking hole Message-ID: <20030105.154521.-857487.1.teacher525@juno.com> I recently had an 86 1.6TD Jetta installed in my Caddy. Will be installing cruise control and tachometer based on Roger Browns pages using a face plate glued on the sprocket. I need to make holes in face plate first before gluing in, to allow insertion of pump locking tool for later maintenance. There are all different size holes in this sprocket. Some have advised using a 7/16 Craftsman deep 1/4 inch socket as locking pin. Does someone know the actual pin size, closest SAE? I have a 1/4 inch deep socket not craftsman. Its 21/32 and slightly too big to fit the smallest hole in the sprocket. There is just one small hole in the sprocket. Does this sound like the correct hole? Why only one small hole? The other holes in the sprocket are much bigger. Although I didn't see the inside alignment hole on the pump, I assume it is hidden by the current sprocket position. Or am I looking at the wrong hole for locking in the sprocket for the Jetta TD pump? ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sun Jan 5 19:13:39 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Injection Pump locking hole In-Reply-To: <20030105.154521.-857487.1.teacher525@juno.com> from "Milton Kaplan" at Jan 05, 2003 03:45:18 PM Message-ID: <200301060013.TAA10363@swamps.roc.ny.us> > locking tool for later maintenance. There are all different size > holes in this sprocket. Some have advised using a 7/16 Craftsman > deep 1/4 inch socket as locking pin. Does someone know the actual > pin size, closest SAE? I have a 1/4 inch deep socket not craftsman. The 7/16, 1/4" drive Craftsman socket does indeed fit, however, I've found that using a 1/4" drive older style Craftsman 11mm deep results in an even tighter fit. There's less than .005" slop. 25 years ago, I took that socket out of circulation, and keep it for setting injector pumps. I don't have a loose pump sprocket hanging around, but if you want, I could at least mic the socket. Advise if you want me to do so. From sshourds at flash.net Sun Jan 5 22:32:30 2003 From: sshourds at flash.net (Shalyn Shourds) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles Message-ID: <3E1906DE.4020806@flash.net> Got one on the table and I keep charging up the paddles, but it's still dead. 1965 190Dc Mercedes. Sorry it's not a VW, but I just couldn't stand the thought of asking people who weren't quite as smart or good looking. And, I figure it's still relevant. Car sat for about 10 years, sporadically started, probably last time was 4 years ago. I haul it 1000 miles to Texas to work on it and I absolutely cannot get it to start. I have it cranking full speed, I have all the glow plugs working, the intake's off the car so it's not a problem, I got the mouse nest and mud dauber's nest out of the exhaust (I hope), I have at least some fuel to the injectors and even bypassed the tank in favor of a small can of fresh fuel. Timing should still be on since it's not been worked on since it was parked, running. I have it to where one cylinder will sort of fire while the glow plugs are still very hot, and there's a pretty impressive cloud of white Diesel smoke in the garage. Looks like one of those scenes in the Highlander movie where they're fighting in the misty moors. But, that's all I can get. Any good ideas out there of what can get gummed up if you let a car sit too long? I'd love to just haul it behind a truck till it started, but the clutch system is leaking and I don't have a truck handy. Oh, and it won't light off of WD-40 sprayed in the intake. All I can think of is that maybe the injectors got gummed up, or someone mentioned that maybe the rings stuck, a possibility that I'm hoping is not the case. For some VW content, if you idle a 1.6TD with the BIG alternator for a long time charging another car's battery over and over again, does that really use up some fuel? Cause my economy has really been down since I brought the other car down. Thanks -Shalyn -85 Jetta TD -65 MB 190 Dc, Job's wife From charlie at elektro.cmhnet.org Mon Jan 6 00:18:55 2003 From: charlie at elektro.cmhnet.org (Charlie Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles In-Reply-To: <3E1906DE.4020806@flash.net> from "Shalyn Shourds" at Jan 05, 2003 10:32:30 PM Message-ID: <200301060518.h065ItN15964@elektro.cmhnet.org> Earlier, Shalyn Shourds wrote: > > Got one on the table and I keep charging up the paddles, but it's > still dead. 1965 190Dc Mercedes. Sorry it's not a VW, but I just > couldn't stand the thought of asking people who weren't quite as smart > or good looking. And, I figure it's still relevant. > Car sat for about 10 years, sporadically started, probably last time > was 4 years ago. I haul it 1000 miles to Texas to work on it and I > absolutely cannot get it to start. I have it cranking full speed, I > have all the glow plugs working, the intake's off the car so it's not a > problem, I got the mouse nest and mud dauber's nest out of the exhaust > (I hope), I have at least some fuel to the injectors and even bypassed > the tank in favor of a small can of fresh fuel. Timing should still be > on since it's not been worked on since it was parked, running. I have > it to where one cylinder will sort of fire while the glow plugs are > still very hot, and there's a pretty impressive cloud of white Diesel > smoke in the garage. White smoke is unburned fuel, from one (or more) cylinder not firing. > Looks like one of those scenes in the Highlander > movie where they're fighting in the misty moors. But, that's all I can > get. Any good ideas out there of what can get gummed up if you let a > car sit too long? I'd love to just haul it behind a truck till it > started, but the clutch system is leaking and I don't have a truck > handy. Oh, and it won't light off of WD-40 sprayed in the intake. > > All I can think of is that maybe the injectors got gummed up, or someone > mentioned that maybe the rings stuck, a possibility that I'm hoping is > not the case. If nothing else works, pull the injectors and do a compression test. All cylinders should be somewhere close +/- 10% at most. While they are out, test the spray pattern of the injectors. If you don't have good atomization the sprayed fuel will be very hard to ignite. > > For some VW content, if you idle a 1.6TD with the BIG alternator for a > long time charging another car's battery over and over again, does that > really use up some fuel? Cause my economy has really been down since I > brought the other car down. The prolonged running has to use some fuel. How much and how long you've run it is hard to guess from what you wrote. Since I'm new to this list, I'll add as background that I've had a half dozen VW diesels in the past, including putting aftermarket turbos on a couple of them. :-) If anybody knows somebody looking, I've got a good '82 Audi 2.0L 5 cyl diesel sitting in the garage that needs a new home. - Charlie Charlie Smith charlie@elektro.cmhnet.org 614-471-1418 http://www.elektro.com/~charlie Columbus Ohio USA http://www.elektro.com/~audi photos & technical info 95 S6 Quattro - 24 PSI, RS2 6 speed, and other features 97 Dodge Ram - 35 PSI, 4x4 w/Cummins turbo diesel From LBaird119 at aol.com Mon Jan 6 00:28:34 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles Message-ID: > All I can think of is that maybe the injectors got gummed up, or someone > mentioned that maybe the rings stuck, a possibility that I'm hoping is > not the case. Honestly since you have a separate tank set up I might try cranking some ATF through the pump. It certainly will help if the rings are stuck. Stuck rings would've been my first thought until my trip down there. We spent a couple hours visiting with the guys in an injector pump shop. They had an old Mercedes pump in there that had say about 10 years, inside. Humidity is such a bear there that the pump wouldn't even turn! It was completely gummed up. It was almost finished though with just a new diaphragm, seal kit and "check valve" seats. Yours doesn't sound near that bad. :) Dave had a TD pump in there to be worked over and the cam plate was pitted and the vanes in the pump were stuck in the rusty rotor. A tow start would be the simplest way to get it to fire up I'd think. A full glow is also fairly mandatory. Dad's 220 just plain wouldn't start without a full glowing indicator at any temp below about 70F. Even in 90F weather you had to give it a little glow when the engine was cold or you'd do a lot of cranking. Other than pulling injectors and soaking the cylinders with some ATF and cranking clean diesel or ATF through the pump, I'd say you'll just have to keep at it or find someone to drag you around. Not likely you'll find enough of a hill. ;-) > > For some VW content, if you idle a 1.6TD with the BIG alternator for a > long time charging another car's battery over and over again, does that > really use up some fuel? Cause my economy has really been down since I > brought the other car down. Yes it does! Just idling in the colder weather with the heater fan going cuts my mileage noticeably. Loren From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Mon Jan 6 00:02:54 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles In-Reply-To: <3E1906DE.4020806@flash.net> Message-ID: > handy. Oh, and it won't light off of WD-40 sprayed in the intake. Sounds like rings- low compression. I have a 240 mod 123 that starts the same. Compression isn't that low, just 20ish psi below wear limit, plugs good, injectors fresh, but let it be cool, and it won't start worth beans. It's ether time to get it going if you really want to, it will give these lame little "pupp pupp pupp" almost wanting to start while making white smoke noises until the battery runs out. A volks makes these kind of noises, it's going to start right away, like my Jetta during it's runup at -40 when I forget to plug it in at night. When an old Benz makes these noises, better have a really big battery, 'cause you will be at it for veeerrrry long time. The benz is built tough, but not a lot of finesse like a volks. Man, my 89 Jetta is at 540000kms, and still starts to -20 with no trouble, not plugged in. The 240 is essentially dead at 150000 miles from low compression. Another project in the wings. You're sure the glow plugs are good? Some of this vintage of benz had real stupid plug wiring arrangement IIRC. Does yours have the zig-zaggy solid wire that goes from plug to plug? If so, these are not very good glow plugs, the neighbor has these in his car, similar vintage benz, and if you change one, IIRC he had to change them all. If you didn't, and had a mismatched set, one of the others would blow. They were wired in parallel I think, but if one had a smidge higher resistance, the others got too much current and went poof. When one was down, it wouldn't start well at all. I remember being head down under the hood of his for the best part of a winter day trying to get it running, just after he changed a couple plugs. Change one, another one went etc, until I metered out a matched set from his box of used ones. Other thing to check is crack an injector line, be sure fuel is there for sure. -James > > All I can think of is that maybe the injectors got gummed up, or someone > mentioned that maybe the rings stuck, a possibility that I'm hoping is > not the case. > > For some VW content, if you idle a 1.6TD with the BIG alternator for a > long time charging another car's battery over and over again, does that > really use up some fuel? Cause my economy has really been down since I > brought the other car down. > Heh. yeah. From scameron at compmore.net Mon Jan 6 11:51:01 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030106165101.0067b4f0@mail.compmore.net> Big cloud of white smoke means fueling is ok. Since cam and pump are chain driven, no question about timing. Long parking interval allows oil to drain away from rings = no compression. Old worn engine, same thing. All adds up. (why it cranks so easy) Simmilar problems here with an 85 A2 last week. Owner had been trying to crank it too long, and flooded the cylinders with fuel, washing down the lube oil, reducing compression below the ignition point. BEST solution is a tow start. Other methods like squirting lube oil into intake to seal rings can be hazardous to your health, and the engine's. Better fix the clutch and tow it (high, 4th gear to avoid tranny tooth extraction). If it's automatic (ugh) you will have to get a LITTLE 20w50 into each cylinder to get it started. (You could also stick your fuel tubes into a can of auto transmission oil and try to start it on that. Sandy At 10:32 PM 1/5/03 -0600, you wrote: > Got one on the table and I keep charging up the paddles, but it's >still dead. 1965 190Dc Mercedes. Sorry it's not a VW, but I just >couldn't stand the thought of asking people who weren't quite as smart >or good looking. And, I figure it's still relevant. > Car sat for about 10 years, sporadically started, probably last time >was 4 years ago. I haul it 1000 miles to Texas to work on it and I >absolutely cannot get it to start. I have it cranking full speed, I >have all the glow plugs working, the intake's off the car so it's not a >problem, I got the mouse nest and mud dauber's nest out of the exhaust >(I hope), I have at least some fuel to the injectors and even bypassed >the tank in favor of a small can of fresh fuel. Timing should still be >on since it's not been worked on since it was parked, running. I have >it to where one cylinder will sort of fire while the glow plugs are >still very hot, and there's a pretty impressive cloud of white Diesel >smoke in the garage. Looks like one of those scenes in the Highlander >movie where they're fighting in the misty moors. But, that's all I can >get. Any good ideas out there of what can get gummed up if you let a >car sit too long? I'd love to just haul it behind a truck till it >started, but the clutch system is leaking and I don't have a truck >handy. Oh, and it won't light off of WD-40 sprayed in the intake. > >All I can think of is that maybe the injectors got gummed up, or someone >mentioned that maybe the rings stuck, a possibility that I'm hoping is >not the case. > >For some VW content, if you idle a 1.6TD with the BIG alternator for a >long time charging another car's battery over and over again, does that >really use up some fuel? Cause my economy has really been down since I >brought the other car down. > >Thanks > >-Shalyn > >-85 Jetta TD >-65 MB 190 Dc, Job's wife > >_______________________________________________ >vwdiesel mailing list >vwdiesel@vwfans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > From nwall at opei.org Mon Jan 6 12:36:35 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] How could I Grind the Gears Doing This? Message-ID: <3E19BEA3.DFA3DA6A@opei.org> Last night I was driving the Jetta TD. We got a little snow, so the road was coated. I was slowing down doing about 15 mph or so, so I proceded to downshift from 3rd to 2nd. Just like any other time, given the road speed. But.... As I was braking, the wheels totally locked up because of the snow. As I depressed the clutch and downshifted with the wheels locked, the gears banged (or grinded) quite noticeably and it then went into 2nd. What happened? Isn't this like shifting w/ the vehicle stopped, since the wheels locked? Interesting. Its the first time anything like this has happened. Its almost as if I tried to shift w/out the clutch. --Nate From r.c.brown at ieee.org Mon Jan 6 09:48:03 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] How could I Grind the Gears Doing This? References: <3E19BEA3.DFA3DA6A@opei.org> Message-ID: <3E19C153.DF327902@ieee.org> Nate Wall wrote: > > Last night I was driving the Jetta TD. We got a little snow, so the road > was coated. I was slowing down doing about 15 mph or so, so I proceded > to downshift from 3rd to 2nd. Just like any other time, given the road > speed. But.... As I was braking, the wheels totally locked up because of > the snow. As I depressed the clutch and downshifted with the wheels > locked, the gears banged (or grinded) quite noticeably and it then went > into 2nd. What happened? Isn't this like shifting w/ the vehicle > stopped, since the wheels locked? Interesting. Its the first time > anything like this has happened. Its almost as if I tried to shift w/out > the clutch. Same as shifting when stopped but some of the parts in the tranny may still have been spinning due to intertia. Also when you let the clutch out if the timing with the brakes wasn't exact, the wheels may still have been braked so there was a sudden shock as the engine spun them back up to speed. From crusader at nccw.net Mon Jan 6 19:13:49 2003 From: crusader at nccw.net (crusader) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems References: <004d01c2ae15$4105a370$8c7e58cf@w2kclient> <5.1.0.14.2.20021230111015.020839b0@king.cts.com> Message-ID: <002a01c2b5e1$aa007160$147e58cf@w2kclient> After much frustration, I broke down and took to car to my local mechanic who also believes that it is the proportioning valve. He also added that it is pricey. Does anyone know of a used one for sale? Thanks, Kerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Boyer" To: "Nate Wall" ; "crusader" Cc: Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 2:11 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems > I had a bad rear wheel cylinder on an A1 and it just wouldn't bleed. It > didn't leak > in the pressure mode, but it sucked in air when it retracted. I bled the > damn thing > for hours until I talked to a buddy who suggested replacing it. Cured it. > > Regards, > > Chris Boyer > San Diego > > At 10:59 AM 12/30/02 -0500, Nate Wall wrote: > >What type of VW? The A-2 Jettas have a load-sensing proportioning valve > >next to the rear axle beam that sometimes leaks fluid. > > > >--Nate > > > >crusader wrote: > > > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > -- > > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question last week about my > > failing master cylinder. I replaced it and bled all 4 wheels. However, > > on the rear driver side, the line bubbled and foamed no matter how much I > > bled. After noticing that I had good "pedal" I gave up. > > > > > > Now, four days later, my pedal started to sink and after two more days > > I was back to pumping 3-4 times before I got any braking action. The > > difference now, is that after I pump it up, the pedal does not sink as before. > > > > > > I just bled that back wheel again and I continue to get foaming fluid > > out of the wheel cylinder. Can the wheel cylinder be the problem? > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > Kerry > > > -- > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > >_______________________________________________ > >vwdiesel mailing list > >vwdiesel@vwfans.com > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > From PREaton47 at aol.com Mon Jan 6 19:36:09 2003 From: PREaton47 at aol.com (PREaton47@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] FS/ Front swaybar for A1 Rabbit, Jetta, PU Message-ID: <29.355b2ae6.2b4b7af9@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Originally off my 79 Rabbit. Mounts easily. Was told by PO it was Neuspeed but don't know. $75obo, +frt from Phoenix. Ken Hougard From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 19:35:15 2003 From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions Message-ID: RE: TD engine questions 2) For four oversized German TD pistons with rings, I'm getting quoted just under $500 locally. Does anyone out there know of or have a source for these with a little better price? I know I can get a set of 0.5mm oversize turbo diesel pistons for $600 CDN funds including taxes, you should be able to do much better then $600 USD!! Greg _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From sshourds at flash.net Mon Jan 6 19:46:27 2003 From: sshourds at flash.net (Shalyn Shourds) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles References: Message-ID: <3E1A3173.3070706@flash.net> > > >My theory is that the compression may be a little low. (The rings are cold >and they've been sitting for a long time so there's no oil to help them >seal). Get that motor turning at 2000 RPM's and the oil pumps up there and >it generates a little heat, the rings re-seat themselves and vrooom! > >My thoughts! > >By the way, any pictures of your '65? > >Good luck. > >Dave in Phoenix > > Thanks for the enormous response! I'll poke the hose in a can of ATF and see what happens. Maybe running some of that fresh fuel through it will have helped it loosen up. I did notice a lot more white smoke when I got the fresh stuff worked through the system. I think I found a major piece of the problem with the clutch, so I may be able to get that working, too. I'd love to get some pictures up but I haven't invested in a digital camera or a scanner yet. I have thought about finding a cheap used one for garage use. Figured it might be helpful for those things (like drum brakes) that you just can't quite remember how it went together before you took it apart. Would be a lot easier to document the process, too. The car's quite the sight now with all the chrome off, weeds still stuck in it, vestiges of white paint marking up the even coat of rust, etc. When my dad's wife saw it for the first time, she was open-jaw shocked. Then she started talking to me like my girfriend had just dumped me, my dog had just died, and someone had just told me the Monkees didn't play their own music. You just gotta see into the potential:). -Shalyn -85 Jetta TD -65 MB 190Dc From LBaird119 at aol.com Mon Jan 6 21:35:29 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles Message-ID: > the Monkees didn't play their own music. No! Next thing you'll tell me there's no Santa Claus! (Actually Mike was a good guitar player and Mickey's a fair drummer. Partridge Family, now THERE'S someone that didn't play their own music!) One thing, I wouldn't expect the Benz to start on ATF. It might help it to run some through it but then you'll have to pump diesel back through. I had a bunch go through a pump it seems like (I can't think of why) and it barely ran until it got flushed through well with diesel. Must've been Dad filled a fuel filter with it or something. Barely ran though. Loren From boyer at cts.com Mon Jan 6 19:37:56 2003 From: boyer at cts.com (Chris Boyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems In-Reply-To: <002a01c2b5e1$aa007160$147e58cf@w2kclient> References: <004d01c2ae15$4105a370$8c7e58cf@w2kclient> <5.1.0.14.2.20021230111015.020839b0@king.cts.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030106191347.0208b5b0@king.cts.com> Hi, Kerry....if you're bleeding the brakes and every time you get air, that means there is air leaking into the system. Unless your proportioning valve has a leak, I doubt it's defective. Before you spend your money on a proportioning valve, replace that rear wheel cylinder which bubbles upon bleeding, and give it another shot. I think I spent about $6-$12 for a wheel cylinder last time I bought one. If your mechanic is sure it's the proportioning valve, let him buy it and put it in. Pay him if it works. Ask him to explain how a bad proportioning valve causes air bubbles in the fluid. Please send me his response; I'd love to know. If you're damned sold on replacing the proportioning valve, and don't want to spend the money for a factory unit, get one from Wilwood. You'll need to adjust it, but you can manually adjust the pressure differential between the front and rear brakes. Make sure the proportioning valve you are replacing doesn't have a delay valve built in. The delay valve keeps the front brakes from applying until the rears have about 150psi line pressure. The 150psi gives the rear brakes a chance to overcome return spring pressure so they apply at the same time as the front brakes, which do not have return spring pressure to overcome. Let me know what you find if you get a chance. I think you're overlooking something really simple, but deceptive. You'll get it. Regards, Chris Boyer At 07:13 PM 1/6/03 -0500, crusader wrote: >After much frustration, I broke down and took to car to my local mechanic >who also believes that it is the proportioning valve. He also added that it >is pricey. > >Does anyone know of a used one for sale? > >Thanks, > >Kerry >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Chris Boyer" >To: "Nate Wall" ; "crusader" >Cc: >Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 2:11 PM >Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems > > > > I had a bad rear wheel cylinder on an A1 and it just wouldn't bleed. It > > didn't leak > > in the pressure mode, but it sucked in air when it retracted. I bled the > > damn thing > > for hours until I talked to a buddy who suggested replacing it. Cured it. > > > > Regards, > > > > Chris Boyer > > San Diego > > > > At 10:59 AM 12/30/02 -0500, Nate Wall wrote: > > >What type of VW? The A-2 Jettas have a load-sensing proportioning valve > > >next to the rear axle beam that sometimes leaks fluid. > > > > > >--Nate > > > > > >crusader wrote: > > > > > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > > -- > > > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question last week about my > > > failing master cylinder. I replaced it and bled all 4 wheels. However, > > > on the rear driver side, the line bubbled and foamed no matter how much >I > > > bled. After noticing that I had good "pedal" I gave up. > > > > > > > > Now, four days later, my pedal started to sink and after two more days > > > I was back to pumping 3-4 times before I got any braking action. The > > > difference now, is that after I pump it up, the pedal does not sink as >before. > > > > > > > > I just bled that back wheel again and I continue to get foaming fluid > > > out of the wheel cylinder. Can the wheel cylinder be the problem? > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > > > Kerry > > > > -- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >vwdiesel mailing list > > >vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >vwdiesel mailing list >vwdiesel@vwfans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From LBaird119 at aol.com Mon Jan 6 22:36:58 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] The trip: A tale of cross country encounters. :) Message-ID: <14f.19d52851.2b4ba55a@aol.com> Thought I might as well do an update as to how things went since I've been back since Thursday evening. First day was a great meeting with Dave and Jim. I never realized LaGrande was such a windy place. Heck, most everywhere but here and Dave Barbieri's seemed to be windy! Had breakfast with Dave and Jim, then stood outside talking until we were shivering something fierce, then we were on our way again. We drove straight through the rest of the trip and I swear it keeps getting harder and harder to do that! I don't think it's likely to happen again unless we're driving something you can lay down and sleep in! After a few days of cold and flu in OK, I set out for TX. My wife kind of kicked me out so I'd go. By the time I was to OK City, I wondered what on Earth I was doing! This was a LONG bloody drive and I had nobody to keep me awake or spell me off. I also had next to nothing of a radio, no CD player (that I knew of, it was in the back of my seat!) and the DVD player with all the mp3 cds were also back at the in-laws. :P The POS radio did manage to pickup country or oldies most of the way down. I never changed the station, it would just drift from station to station with the frequency not matching what was indicated. Kind of strange, oldies and country was all it'd get! On the way back it got stuck on some classical station no matter where I tuned so I gave up then found the CD and tape adapter. :) About 6 hours later I was meeting Dave Barbieri. I followed him to a motel where we stayed up and talked until about 1:00 or some stupid hour! He came back in the AM and we went for breakfast. Of course more talk of VW's and diesels! He showed me around to the local dealer and VW private specialty shop. They have ALL the equipment there! :) Don't ask me where anything was. We wandered all over different roads to different towns each time until I was thoroughly confused! The next day we visited the local injector pump repair facility where we visited with them for nearly 2 hours! Learned a few things. :) After that we headed for another dealer and picked up a gasket for the Passat. I had a slight exhaust leak between the EGR and the EGR cooler. Replacing it did seem to help some so the car did run better on the return trip but nothing drastic. No real mileage improvement, which was suffering from the speeds we were doing. About 2:00 and I was on my way back to Dallas. Hit a MAJOR rain storm which traffic managed to keep doing 70 to 80 mph through. It was actually much easier to see than doing about 50mph! A few phone calls and I was set to meet Hayden and Shalyn at an exit on the way. Problem was the meeting place was at a different exit! ;-) It all worked out and we visited there too long again. ;-) This group can sure visit when you're talking VW diesels! Then I was off again at a steady 85 arriving back in northern OK at about 11:30 only to get up in the AM and start out back home. Instead of coming home across TX, AZ and up through CA and OR, we doubled back. It was a couple days shorter and Pat wanted to spend the time with her parents. That's why I went to TX by myself. All in all the Passat ran flawlessly. Mileage was mostly 40 with a 45 across WY and about 41 to 42 some of the way home. We drove mostly 75 ish down and a fair bit of 80 on the way home. Whoever thought we needed slow speed limits never drove across a few states! 80 to 90 would be a good speed for the intestates! Not once was there a complaint about leg room from the two teenagers in the backseat. :) Handling was great. The Michelin Alpins did great on the snow and ice with just the usual hopping about as you went from dry to compact snow. Even through several inches of slush I was able to hold about 65 in order to pass on the Blue Mountains. You don't want to follow ANYBODY there! They GRAVEL the highway for winter traction. Ain't no sand, it's like the stuff they use to resurface the road! I finally got the Rabbit nearly cleaned out! It still had antifreeze int the carpet from the leaking connections so I flushed and flushed then vac'd it out. I've finally gotten most of the "crap" out and put or thrown away. Then I did a water pump on the mini van. What a pain. Today was a good one though. :) I got the bolts from Nate, in the mail, for the Jetta turbo so I got them in. THAT car's now done and drivable! YAY! I got the parking brake lever back in Pat's van (after a couple years) so IT'S done! We tried getting some work done on the Dasher too but it looks like the gummed up linkage and gearbox took their toll on the wiper motor. :( At least they're freed up and ready for a good used motor! We left with only my work van and Rabbit running and now I've added 2 more to the list of RUNNING vehicles! Nice feeling! :) Sorry to ramble so much. Loren From TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 22:02:39 2003 From: TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] The trip: A tale of cross country encounters. :) References: <14f.19d52851.2b4ba55a@aol.com> Message-ID: What areas of Texas did you visit? Chris Thornton 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 9:36 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] The trip: A tale of cross country encounters. :) > Thought I might as well do an update as to how things went since I've been > back since Thursday evening. > First day was a great meeting with Dave and Jim. I never realized LaGrande > was such a windy place. Heck, most everywhere but here and Dave Barbieri's > seemed to be windy! Had breakfast with Dave and Jim, then stood outside > talking until we were shivering something fierce, then we were on our way > again. > We drove straight through the rest of the trip and I swear it keeps getting > harder and harder to do that! I don't think it's likely to happen again > unless > we're driving something you can lay down and sleep in! > After a few days of cold and flu in OK, I set out for TX. My wife kind of > kicked me out so I'd go. By the time I was to OK City, I wondered what > on Earth I was doing! This was a LONG bloody drive and I had nobody > to keep me awake or spell me off. I also had next to nothing of a radio, > no CD player (that I knew of, it was in the back of my seat!) and the DVD > player with all the mp3 cds were also back at the in-laws. :P The POS > radio did manage to pickup country or oldies most of the way down. I never > changed the station, it would just drift from station to station with the > frequency not matching what was indicated. Kind of strange, oldies and > country was all it'd get! On the way back it got stuck on some classical > station no matter where I tuned so I gave up then found the CD and tape > adapter. :) > About 6 hours later I was meeting Dave Barbieri. I followed him to a motel > where we stayed up and talked until about 1:00 or some stupid hour! He > came back in the AM and we went for breakfast. Of course more talk of > VW's and diesels! He showed me around to the local dealer and VW > private specialty shop. They have ALL the equipment there! :) Don't > ask me where anything was. We wandered all over different roads to > different towns each time until I was thoroughly confused! The next > day we visited the local injector pump repair facility where we visited > with them for nearly 2 hours! Learned a few things. :) After that we > headed for another dealer and picked up a gasket for the Passat. I > had a slight exhaust leak between the EGR and the EGR cooler. > Replacing it did seem to help some so the car did run better on the > return trip but nothing drastic. No real mileage improvement, which > was suffering from the speeds we were doing. > About 2:00 and I was on my way back to Dallas. Hit a MAJOR rain > storm which traffic managed to keep doing 70 to 80 mph through. It > was actually much easier to see than doing about 50mph! A few > phone calls and I was set to meet Hayden and Shalyn at an exit > on the way. Problem was the meeting place was at a different exit! ;-) > It all worked out and we visited there too long again. ;-) This group > can sure visit when you're talking VW diesels! Then I was off again > at a steady 85 arriving back in northern OK at about 11:30 only to > get up in the AM and start out back home. > Instead of coming home across TX, AZ and up through CA and OR, we > doubled back. It was a couple days shorter and Pat wanted to spend > the time with her parents. That's why I went to TX by myself. > All in all the Passat ran flawlessly. Mileage was mostly 40 with a > 45 across WY and about 41 to 42 some of the way home. We drove > mostly 75 ish down and a fair bit of 80 on the way home. Whoever > thought we needed slow speed limits never drove across a few states! > 80 to 90 would be a good speed for the intestates! Not once was there > a complaint about leg room from the two teenagers in the backseat. :) > Handling was great. The Michelin Alpins did great on the snow and ice > with just the usual hopping about as you went from dry to compact snow. > Even through several inches of slush I was able to hold about 65 in order to > pass on the Blue Mountains. You don't want to follow ANYBODY there! > They GRAVEL the highway for winter traction. Ain't no sand, it's like the > stuff they use to resurface the road! > I finally got the Rabbit nearly cleaned out! It still had antifreeze int > the > carpet from the leaking connections so I flushed and flushed then vac'd > it out. I've finally gotten most of the "crap" out and put or thrown away. > Then I did a water pump on the mini van. What a pain. Today was a > good one though. :) I got the bolts from Nate, in the mail, for the Jetta > turbo so I got them in. THAT car's now done and drivable! YAY! I got > the parking brake lever back in Pat's van (after a couple years) so IT'S > done! We tried getting some work done on the Dasher too but it looks > like the gummed up linkage and gearbox took their toll on the wiper > motor. :( At least they're freed up and ready for a good used motor! > We left with only my work van and Rabbit running and now I've added > 2 more to the list of RUNNING vehicles! Nice feeling! :) > Sorry to ramble so much. > Loren > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From dsnyder at goodnet.com Mon Jan 6 21:24:23 2003 From: dsnyder at goodnet.com (Dave Snyder) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Found some new German Pistons for $350. Thanks! Dave -----Original Message----- From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On Behalf Of greg rich Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 5:35 PM To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions RE: TD engine questions 2) For four oversized German TD pistons with rings, I'm getting quoted just under $500 locally. Does anyone out there know of or have a source for these with a little better price? I know I can get a set of 0.5mm oversize turbo diesel pistons for $600 CDN funds including taxes, you should be able to do much better then $600 USD!! Greg _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From shea at gtsdesign.com Mon Jan 6 21:43:57 2003 From: shea at gtsdesign.com (Gary Shea) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Where'd you get 'em? C'mon man, let us in on it! Gary On Mon, 6 Jan 2003, at 21:24 [-0700], Dave Snyder (dsnyder@goodnet.com) wrote: > Found some new German Pistons for $350. > > > Thanks! > > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of greg rich > Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 5:35 PM > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions > > > > > > > > > > > > RE: TD engine questions > > 2) For four oversized German TD pistons with rings, I'm getting quoted just > under $500 locally. Does anyone out there know of or have a source for > these with a little better price? > > I know I can get a set of 0.5mm oversize turbo diesel pistons for $600 CDN > funds including taxes, you should be able to do much better then $600 USD!! > Greg > > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Jan 7 00:33:05 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] The trip: A tale of cross country encounters. :) Message-ID: <1a7.edd4c05.2b4bc091@aol.com> > What areas of Texas did you visit? South on I-35 to Dallas to I-635 to hwy 80 to I-20 to Tyler area, Overton, Kilgore, New London and back. Loren From TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com Tue Jan 7 00:22:47 2003 From: TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] The trip: A tale of cross country encounters. :) References: <1a7.edd4c05.2b4bc091@aol.com> Message-ID: I live just south of Tyler, in a little town called "Whitehouse". I wish I had known you were going to be in the area. Chris Thornton 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 11:33 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] The trip: A tale of cross country encounters. :) > > What areas of Texas did you visit? > > South on I-35 to Dallas to I-635 to hwy 80 to I-20 to Tyler area, Overton, > Kilgore, New London and back. > Loren > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From teacher525 at juno.com Tue Jan 7 00:42:55 2003 From: teacher525 at juno.com (Milton Kaplan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] TD Injection Pump locking hole/Tachometer Message-ID: <20030107.004456.-1004835.2.teacher525@juno.com> Thanks, Christian. Apparently the 86 Jetta TD injection pump sprocket just has one hole meant for the alignment pin. Its funny we are talking about the best socket tool to use which has nothing to do with fitting a nut! Its interesting that outside dimensions of different companies tools vary. I'm actually not timing the injection pump but using the sprocket as part of a design for adding a tachometer signal. In Roger Brown's Tachometer signal design for diesels, http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/Tachometer/index.shtm l, a round cover plate inside the sprocket was used to reflect an infrared signal back to a sensor circuit to drive a tachometer. Instead of the cover plate, I'm going to try using the outside sprocket rim to reflect the signal; put on some flat black paint and glue on 4 sections of aluminum foil or mylar tape. Sensor Alignment may be a bit more tricky as the rim is only about 3/16 inch wide. Should be enough to reflect the signal though. > The 7/16, 1/4" drive Craftsman socket does indeed fit, however, I've > found that using a 1/4" drive older style Craftsman 11mm deep > results in an > even tighter fit. There's less than .005" slop. 25 years ago, I > took > that socket out of circulation, and keep it for setting injector > pumps. > I don't have a loose pump sprocket hanging around, but if you want, > I could > at least mic the socket. Advise if you want me to do so. > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From dsnyder at goodnet.com Tue Jan 7 05:35:57 2003 From: dsnyder at goodnet.com (Dave Snyder) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'll post it after they get hear and prove to be real! -----Original Message----- From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On Behalf Of Gary Shea Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 9:44 PM To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions Where'd you get 'em? C'mon man, let us in on it! Gary On Mon, 6 Jan 2003, at 21:24 [-0700], Dave Snyder (dsnyder@goodnet.com) wrote: > Found some new German Pistons for $350. > > > Thanks! > > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of greg rich > Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 5:35 PM > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: TD engine questions > > > > > > > > > > > > RE: TD engine questions > > 2) For four oversized German TD pistons with rings, I'm getting quoted just > under $500 locally. Does anyone out there know of or have a source for > these with a little better price? > > I know I can get a set of 0.5mm oversize turbo diesel pistons for $600 CDN > funds including taxes, you should be able to do much better then $600 USD!! > Greg > > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From nwall at opei.org Tue Jan 7 09:08:28 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems References: <004d01c2ae15$4105a370$8c7e58cf@w2kclient> <5.1.0.14.2.20021230111015.020839b0@king.cts.com> <002a01c2b5e1$aa007160$147e58cf@w2kclient> Message-ID: <3E1ADF5C.700AD2E@opei.org> Is the A-2 Jetta w/ the load sensing proportioning valve near the rear axle (the Golfs have a valve of some sorts on the master cylinder). They are about $150+ (US Dollars) from your friendly VW dealer. I do believe German Auto Parts (on the net?) has them for about $85. Someone else sells OEM, though I know. I know someone on the list knows who. Before I got wise, I shelled out the $150 when mine leaked. --Nate crusader wrote: > After much frustration, I broke down and took to car to my local mechanic > who also believes that it is the proportioning valve. He also added that it > is pricey. > > Does anyone know of a used one for sale? > > Thanks, > > Kerry > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chris Boyer" > To: "Nate Wall" ; "crusader" > Cc: > Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 2:11 PM > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems > > > I had a bad rear wheel cylinder on an A1 and it just wouldn't bleed. It > > didn't leak > > in the pressure mode, but it sucked in air when it retracted. I bled the > > damn thing > > for hours until I talked to a buddy who suggested replacing it. Cured it. > > > > Regards, > > > > Chris Boyer > > San Diego > > > > At 10:59 AM 12/30/02 -0500, Nate Wall wrote: > > >What type of VW? The A-2 Jettas have a load-sensing proportioning valve > > >next to the rear axle beam that sometimes leaks fluid. > > > > > >--Nate > > > > > >crusader wrote: > > > > > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > > -- > > > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > > Thanks to all of you who responded to my question last week about my > > > failing master cylinder. I replaced it and bled all 4 wheels. However, > > > on the rear driver side, the line bubbled and foamed no matter how much > I > > > bled. After noticing that I had good "pedal" I gave up. > > > > > > > > Now, four days later, my pedal started to sink and after two more days > > > I was back to pumping 3-4 times before I got any braking action. The > > > difference now, is that after I pump it up, the pedal does not sink as > before. > > > > > > > > I just bled that back wheel again and I continue to get foaming fluid > > > out of the wheel cylinder. Can the wheel cylinder be the problem? > > > > > > > > Thanks again, > > > > > > > > Kerry > > > > -- > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >vwdiesel mailing list > > >vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com Tue Jan 7 08:17:10 2003 From: TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems References: <004d01c2ae15$4105a370$8c7e58cf@w2kclient> <5.1.0.14.2.20021230111015.020839b0@king.cts.com> <002a01c2b5e1$aa007160$147e58cf@w2kclient> <3E1ADF5C.700AD2E@opei.org> Message-ID: When I need OEM parts I always go to www.germanautoparts.com and www.vwparts.com first. Chris Thornton 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nate Wall" To: "crusader" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 8:08 AM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems > Is the A-2 Jetta w/ the load sensing proportioning valve near the rear axle (the > Golfs have a valve of some sorts on the master cylinder). They are about $150+ > (US Dollars) from your friendly VW dealer. I do believe German Auto Parts (on > the net?) has them for about $85. Someone else sells OEM, though I know. I know > someone on the list knows who. Before I got wise, I shelled out the $150 when > mine leaked. > > --Nate From forrestking at juno.com Tue Jan 7 08:23:03 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems Message-ID: <20030107.082304.1408.0.forrestking@juno.com> adirondack (www.germanautoparts.com) does not always sell OEm stuff - I just had a small battle with them over a beck arnely sensor they sold me calling it 'OEM' - the guy said ' well, your connector fits on it, and the sensor fits in the hole, that's OEM' Forrest On Tue, 7 Jan 2003 08:17:10 -0600 "TexasTDI" writes: > When I need OEM parts I always go to www.germanautoparts.com and > www.vwparts.com first. > > Chris Thornton > 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles > 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles > 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE > Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 > http://www.amsoil.com > http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Nate Wall" > To: "crusader" > Cc: > Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 8:08 AM > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems > > > > Is the A-2 Jetta w/ the load sensing proportioning valve near the > rear > axle (the > > Golfs have a valve of some sorts on the master cylinder). They are > about > $150+ > > (US Dollars) from your friendly VW dealer. I do believe German > Auto Parts > (on > > the net?) has them for about $85. Someone else sells OEM, though I > know. I > know > > someone on the list knows who. Before I got wise, I shelled out > the $150 > when > > mine leaked. > > > > --Nate > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From nwall at opei.org Tue Jan 7 09:35:02 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bringing out the paddles References: <3E1A3173.3070706@flash.net> Message-ID: <3E1AE596.ED52CDC@opei.org> How's the rust on it? I can deal w/ almost anything, but bad rust is one thing I can't. Now if I knew how to weld in sheed metal and panels, that'd be a different story. That's a skill I'd love to have! --nate Shalyn Shourds wrote: > > > > > >My theory is that the compression may be a little low. (The rings are cold > >and they've been sitting for a long time so there's no oil to help them > >seal). Get that motor turning at 2000 RPM's and the oil pumps up there and > >it generates a little heat, the rings re-seat themselves and vrooom! > > > >My thoughts! > > > >By the way, any pictures of your '65? > > > >Good luck. > > > >Dave in Phoenix > > > > > > Thanks for the enormous response! I'll poke the hose in a can of ATF > and see what happens. Maybe running some of that fresh fuel through it > will have helped it loosen up. I did notice a lot more white smoke when > I got the fresh stuff worked through the system. I think I found a > major piece of the problem with the clutch, so I may be able to get that > working, too. > > I'd love to get some pictures up but I haven't invested in a digital > camera or a scanner yet. I have thought about finding a cheap used one > for garage use. Figured it might be helpful for those things (like drum > brakes) that you just can't quite remember how it went together before > you took it apart. Would be a lot easier to document the process, too. > The car's quite the sight now with all the chrome off, weeds still > stuck in it, vestiges of white paint marking up the even coat of rust, > etc. When my dad's wife saw it for the first time, she was open-jaw > shocked. Then she started talking to me like my girfriend had just > dumped me, my dog had just died, and someone had just told me the > Monkees didn't play their own music. You just gotta see into the > potential:). > > -Shalyn > > -85 Jetta TD > -65 MB 190Dc > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From nwall at opei.org Tue Jan 7 10:33:49 2003 From: nwall at opei.org (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:13 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems References: <20030107.082304.1408.0.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <3E1AF35D.AD155D93@opei.org> <<>> That's aftermarket! --Nate Forrest L King wrote: > adirondack (www.germanautoparts.com) does not always sell OEm stuff - I > just had a small battle with them over a beck arnely sensor they sold me > calling it 'OEM' - the guy said ' well, your connector fits on it, and > the sensor fits in the hole, that's OEM' > > Forrest > > On Tue, 7 Jan 2003 08:17:10 -0600 "TexasTDI" > writes: > > When I need OEM parts I always go to www.germanautoparts.com and > > www.vwparts.com first. > > > > Chris Thornton > > 1991 VW Jetta GL 2 Door 1.6D - 233k miles > > 2000 VW Golf GLS 1.9TDI 130hp/229ftlbs - 74k miles > > 1998 VW Passat GLS 1.8T -- FOR SALE > > Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 > > http://www.amsoil.com > > http://texastdi.com/6/ubb.x > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Nate Wall" > > To: "crusader" > > Cc: > > Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 8:08 AM > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Continuing brake Problems > > > > > > > Is the A-2 Jetta w/ the l