Fw: [Vwdiesel] Re: amsoil and oil-getting OT
scameron at compmore.net
Wed Jul 23 14:00:22 EDT 2003
At 08:30 AM 7/23/03 -0700, you wrote:
>Talk about anal (retentive), one day I removed the oil
>pan (for rod bearings) and discovered about 3/4 quarts
>remain in the pan when drained on level ground. Since
>then, I drain the oil and then jack up the front w/
>the floor jack and get at least half a quart more out.
>Then I put the plug back in.
I never thought about that, since I always do mine on my ramps, front end
raised about a foot, ensuring a complete drain.
Another observation from the slow geriatric mind:
With the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, filled to the top, I can
actually bleed / replace brake fluid by gravity. This takes patience, which
I have lots of these days.
My somewhat annual (anal?) fluid replacement exercise includes, first,
outside where I can dump and flush the fluid, thoroughly clean the outside
of the reservoir and MC, being very carefull of where the res. plugs into
the grommets. Let it dry or blow dry with compressed air
Remove the reservoir from the MC by gently rocking and lifting, from the
rubber grommets. Fluid will run out . let it fall down past the tranny into
a kitty litter tray, or on the pavement. place a lint free cover (no rags)
over the MC to keep dust out. Wash out reservoir with soap and water, dry
with vacuum cleaner or hair dryer.
Smear fresh brake fluid on the nipples, and re-insert in the grommets.
Refill with fresh fluid, put on the cap, and hose down the affected part of
the engine room, and the driveway. The fluid IS poisonous in concentration,
but being water soluable is easy to wash away. Comments on environmentaly
friedly disposal welcomed.
(what are the constituents of the fluid besides alchohol, glycerine?)
Now commence bleeding, constantly monitoring the fluid level in the reservoir..
Absolute cleanliness is required. Do not attempt this work if you are not
prepared to clean the operating area so not a speck of dirt or water remain.
I have 450,000km on my original factory callipers and MC, and they work fine.
I C-clamp the pistons with the bleeder open whenever I replace or remove the
pads to force any old residual fluid out of the calliper bore.
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