[Vwdiesel] Help-Ball Joint

Val Christian val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Sat May 3 09:55:49 EDT 2003

I get it, wedge the clamping part.  Not a problem, I'll pop the CV out
and give it the wedge.  It's been soaking all night in penetrant.

I already had the strut compressed, and the tire iron / jackstand /
hydraulic car jack combo put TONS of force on the joint.  I've done this
disassembly probably 80 times on cars, and never had a problem such
as this.  I'll do the wedge game.

BTW, using a jewelers tip on the torch is what finally got the top
caliper retainer bolt free. Didn't even touch the brake caliper
boot.  I spent hours with penetrant, tapping, impact with a mouse, etc.
Every little think I seem to break is after I fail to use heat when
faced with a stubborn fastner.  Am I getting old and impatient, or
do others have the same experience in salt-land?


> You need a wedge or suitable sacrificial screwdriver to tap into the slot.
> Joint just falls out then.  The bolt is completely out, right? Good.  IIRC
> the last one I did I put a spring compressor on the strut to shorten the
> strut, then the ball joint comes out easily whence the joint is loose from
> the hole.
> -James
> >   Pry the slot open a bit.  That usually helps a bunch.  The
> > other thing is
> > that most times you can't pry the lower arm down in a jacked up-relaxed
> > position.  You usually need to lift the strut/hub assembly a few
> > inches and
> > THEN pry down the lower arm.  The easiest way to pry it is with about a
> > 4' bar.  lever it down against the control arm and use the body/frame
> > area to pry against.

More information about the Vwdiesel mailing list