[Vwdiesel] Help-Ball Joint
val at swamps.roc.ny.us
Sat May 3 09:55:49 EDT 2003
I get it, wedge the clamping part. Not a problem, I'll pop the CV out
and give it the wedge. It's been soaking all night in penetrant.
I already had the strut compressed, and the tire iron / jackstand /
hydraulic car jack combo put TONS of force on the joint. I've done this
disassembly probably 80 times on cars, and never had a problem such
as this. I'll do the wedge game.
BTW, using a jewelers tip on the torch is what finally got the top
caliper retainer bolt free. Didn't even touch the brake caliper
boot. I spent hours with penetrant, tapping, impact with a mouse, etc.
Every little think I seem to break is after I fail to use heat when
faced with a stubborn fastner. Am I getting old and impatient, or
do others have the same experience in salt-land?
> You need a wedge or suitable sacrificial screwdriver to tap into the slot.
> Joint just falls out then. The bolt is completely out, right? Good. IIRC
> the last one I did I put a spring compressor on the strut to shorten the
> strut, then the ball joint comes out easily whence the joint is loose from
> the hole.
> > Pry the slot open a bit. That usually helps a bunch. The
> > other thing is
> > that most times you can't pry the lower arm down in a jacked up-relaxed
> > position. You usually need to lift the strut/hub assembly a few
> > inches and
> > THEN pry down the lower arm. The easiest way to pry it is with about a
> > 4' bar. lever it down against the control arm and use the body/frame
> > area to pry against.
More information about the Vwdiesel