gbangs at cfl.rr.com
Thu Nov 20 12:02:46 EST 2003
I don't remember where I read it, but yes, the 30mm for either the
non-turbo hydraulic or turbo mechanical.
Absolutely. The head stud holes need to be clean and fluid free.
However, I don't believe anti-seize should be used on head bolts; motor
oil only. And then, just so they're coated, not dripping. The choice of
lubricant will affect the torque values. Meaning, you will still apply
such and such torque, but in the end, the head bolt will have more
longitudinal stress. With TTY bolts, it probably isn't much of a big
deal because the highest measured torque applied is 44ft-lbs, then it's
all by angle.
-Gary in Orlando
On Fri, 2003-03-21 at 09:13, Bart Wineland wrote:
> This is good stuff. I am collecting the parts to put my original '89 NA
> hydraulic back together so this is helpful. You mentioned the 26 mm pump
> for the non hydraulic 1.6, and the 36 mm for the hydraulic turbo. Does that
> leave the 30 mm pump for my 1.6 non turbo hydraulic? I have another
> question about the head bolts. I have seen it stressed several times to
> chase the block threads and make sure they are clean and oil free to
> prevent any hydraulic action that could crack the block when torqued down,
> but then I have seen it recommended to add anti-seize to the new bolts. Is
> it safe?
> thanks much,
> At 08:15 AM 3/21/2003 -0500, Gary, Orlando wrote:
> >With all new rings, the cylinders should get a new hone. I used a
> >standard 3-stone that fits into my power drill. Just hone enough to
> >break the glaze and give a nice 60* cross hatch pattern. You can also
> >rent a "grape" hone from your local FLAPS for next to nothing. These cut
> >a little better than a three stone.
> >Make sure you clean the old pistons really, really well, especially the
> >ring slots.
> >While the engine is apart, replace all of the bearings. The rod bearings
> >are already out, the mains can be rolled in with crank in place. With no
> >belt on the intermediate shaft, check for excessive side-to-side
> >movement. This is the bane of VW diesels. Too much clearance in these
> >intermediate shaft bearings will cause low oil pressure. Unfortunately,
> >the block must be out of the car to replace these bearings.
> >Also, you should replace the oil pump. There three sizes to choose
> >from... 26, 30, and 36mm. The 26 is for the standard NA non-hydraulic
> >diesel. The 36 is for hydraulic, turbo diesels. The 36 will give
> >obviously more pressure, and will make up for some slop in bearing
> >clearances. IMHO.
> >Good luck!
> >-Gary, Orlando
> >On Thu, 2003-03-20 at 23:18, Kenneth E. Oldrid wrote:
> > > Hi all,
> > > I am re-ringing my pistons in my 86 jetta's 1.6. I am not reboring the
> > > cylinders, as many others have gotten by on new rings only. My question is,
> > > what are my options for honing the cylinders? DO people use sandpaper?
> > > I have new head bolts, gaskets, timing belt, and rings. Are there any other
> > > components essential for a rebuild that I've left out?
> > > thanks,
> > > Ken
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