From Doyt at NWOnline.Net Mon Sep 1 14:39:40 2003 From: Doyt at NWOnline.Net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 5k Turbo Diesel,'83 FS Cleveland OH Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030901131921.01479398@mail.buckeye-express.com> This ad appeared in The Cleveland Plain Dealer classified today-Labor Day: "Audi 1983: 5000 Turbo Diesel limited edition, rare, every available option. 120k, $1,000. phone 440-942-0906." I know nothing about this car or the seller, and live 60 miles away. I am in Cleveland about 4 days every week, and could look into this ad for someone, if they are interested. I am posting it because I recently saw a list post asking about TD 5000's, so some one might like to know about this one. Doyt Echelberger Ohio USA From h_hagar at prcn.org Tue Sep 2 08:17:11 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pumps Bosch VE in Rabbits.--- ( adjusting the fueling screw ) Message-ID: <000e01c3715d$83d0c3e0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I know that at least one person is lurking to see how I made out , before t= rying it.So here it is. Go ahead on her , its a piece of cake. To really know what is in there, = take the screw all the way out and take a good look at it. Then count the t= urns as you screw it all the way in. The total adjustment range is about 4= turns. IN is more fuel--- OUT is less fuel. (Not like needles on carbs). = Note that when you get to the smoke no smoke , the adjustments are very sma= ll. I noticed some talk about removing the stop collar on screw , I sug= gest not to do it , use a thinner washer instead. Very important is a 13 mm crooked wrench for the locknut. I made one by hea= ting and twisting like a pretzel a standard wrench. (its a piece of art) To= ok many twists to get it just right for the turbos.Well worth it. So you have nothing to fear go ahead on her. have fun = Hagar PS: Idle must be set every time you move fueling screw. How do you find F= UELING screw ???, its the one with a 13 mm lock-nut. -- From ea82t at yahoo.co.uk Tue Sep 2 16:52:15 2003 From: ea82t at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?Simon=20Rook?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pumps Bosch VE in Rabbits.--- ( adjusting the fueling screw ) In-Reply-To: <000e01c3715d$83d0c3e0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> Message-ID: <20030902145215.95698.qmail@web20904.mail.yahoo.com> Hagar, Thanks for that, getting up the courage to do the same on my 1.9TD, trouble is later pumps have a horrible tamper proofrotating collar arrangement I've got to hack off first...othet jobs need doing (like lights would be good!) so I need a round toit! Simon --- "H .Hagar" wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I know that at least one person is lurking to see > how I made out , before trying it.So here it is. > Go ahead on her , its a piece of cake. To really > know what is in there, take the screw all the way > out and take a good look at it. Then count the turns > as you screw it all the way in. The total > adjustment range is about 4 turns. IN is more > fuel--- OUT is less fuel. (Not like needles on > carbs). Note that when you get to the smoke no smoke > , the adjustments are very small. I noticed some > talk about removing the stop collar on screw , I > suggest not to do it , use a thinner washer instead. > Very important is a 13 mm crooked wrench for the > locknut. I made one by heating and twisting like a > pretzel a standard wrench. (its a piece of art) Took > many twists to get it just right for the turbos.Well > worth it. > So you have nothing to fear go ahead on her. > have fun Hagar > PS: Idle must be set every time you move fueling > screw. How do you find FUELING screw ???, its the > one with a 13 mm lock-nut. > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/ From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 2 12:39:10 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bachrach diesel comparator on ebay Message-ID: <167.25067ae2.2c86139e@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Click here: eBay item 2429958750 (Ends Sep-03-03 17:48:12 PDT) - Bachrach diesel injector comparitor Not mine, blah blah, price looked good. Thought someone here might want a new toy! :) Loren From shea at gtsdesign.com Tue Sep 2 12:50:35 2003 From: shea at gtsdesign.com (Gary Shea) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] wanted: Jetta TD intake manifold Message-ID: I can't think of any more details! Getting my Quantum TD ready to go into the NA Rabbit. That will be one happy Rabbit... Gary From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 3 06:32:56 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector lines FLEXIBLE ? --- ( Available ? --yes. ) Message-ID: <001601c37217$fd23c520$92ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I am in the process of testing a line. Will let you know how it goes. The tradename for the plastic line is " SYNTEX " . It is good to 6000 psi. It will probably get us home in a pinch. I am answering a question from some time back.Look around archives for " broken lines ". Hagar. -- From ea82t at yahoo.co.uk Wed Sep 3 14:51:37 2003 From: ea82t at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?Simon=20Rook?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector lines FLEXIBLE ? --- ( Available ? --yes. ) In-Reply-To: <001601c37217$fd23c520$92ccb5d0@prcn.org> Message-ID: <20030903125137.99856.qmail@web20907.mail.yahoo.com> Hagar, With peak injection pressure on a VE pump of 500 bar (7,500psi) you'll be chancing your arm methinks! (if you don't understand the expression blame it on me being a Brit!) Simon --- "H .Hagar" wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I am in the process of testing a line. Will let you > know how it goes. The tradename for the plastic > line is " SYNTEX " . > It is good to 6000 psi. It will probably get us > home in a pinch. I am answering a question > from some time back.Look around archives for " > broken lines ". > Hagar. > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/ From forrestking at juno.com Wed Sep 3 17:18:55 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (forrestking@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector lines FLEXIBLE ? --- ( Available ? --yes. ) Message-ID: <20030903.091937.24817.172963@webmail10.lax.untd.com> "The Parts Place for Volkswagens" currently sells a flexible line with the = appropriate end-fittings for our application. IIRC the lines are about 20 = bucks each and are a foot or two long. It is in their current catalog. I = do not have a webpage for them, and they don't do internet sales, but maybe= a search on Yahoo would yield the phone number. I beleive they are located= in Michigan - very difficult folks to do business with, but they have tons= of stuff. -- Simon Rook wrote: Hagar, With peak injection pressure on a VE pump of 500 bar (7,500psi) you'll be chancing your arm methinks! (if you don't understand the expression blame it on me being a Brit!) Simon --- "H .Hagar" wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I am in the process of testing a line. Will let you > know how it goes. The tradename for the plastic > line is " SYNTEX " . > It is good to 6000 psi. It will probably get us > home in a pinch. I am answering a question > from some time back.Look around archives for " > broken lines ". > Hagar. > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From LBaird119 at aol.com Wed Sep 3 13:20:40 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector lines FLEXIBLE ? --- ( Available ? --yes. ) Message-ID: <157.23f68390.2c876ed8@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] With peak injection pressure on a VE pump of 500 bar (7,500psi) you'll be chancing your arm methinks! Problem is that if the pump's running anywhere near those pressures there's a problem that's likely to damage the pump. I'd rather blow a line than rebuild the pump. :) Normal operating pressures are well below 3K. Loren From korn at simnet.is Wed Sep 3 23:40:31 2003 From: korn at simnet.is (Martin K) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel References: <000e01c3685b$89fd5720$60ccb5d0@prcn.org> <3F46B7EF.BAACBF15@simnet.is> Message-ID: <3F566DD6.9644C21C@simnet.is> I finally managed to get the engine together and installed it into the van , most of the time was spent finding the various bits in a variety of places. Still there is the pan to sort out. As well as sucking diesel it is sucking air through someplace in the pump. Despite taking a lot of time checking and rechecking things before I started up the engine, my guard dropped after the test drive when I went to tighten the head bolts part 2. I tightened them all to the same 180 degrees as in stage one. Then it dawned on me as I was tightening the last bolt that it should have been a 1/4 turn, 90 degrees. I guess that you cant undo by just by loosening each bolt a 1/4 turn. If by some chance the head is still okay what about stage 3 of the headbolt tightening after a 1000km or is that stretching optimism to the level of one of my head bolts. Martin From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 3 17:08:02 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector line correction. -- ( should have been Synflex ) Message-ID: <001601c37270$8a1d8580$77ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Just got the specks ----- burst pressure 20 000 psi Simon Rook -- ke= ep the jokes coming , I went to school in South Hampton in my twenties , r= eally like that British humor. Mark Shepherd has a complex sense of the f= unny so you two are a good addition to this lot. But caution is needed = around these pressures so , I never fail to put on glasses. Personally I t= ried a lot of high pressure fooling around 10 000 psi sort of stuff . = Nylon hose has the extra protection of expanding so that pressure will be l= ow since no volume is available, small piston and short stroke. Hagar. -- From mwsnow at cox.net Wed Sep 3 17:59:00 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel In-Reply-To: <3F566DD6.9644C21C@simnet.is> References: <000e01c3685b$89fd5720$60ccb5d0@prcn.org> <3F46B7EF.BAACBF15@simnet.is> <3F566DD6.9644C21C@simnet.is> Message-ID: <3F568044.1030406@cox.net> What makes you think air is entering into the pump through a pump leak? The pump runs at very high internal pressure. It's much more likely that one of your fuel lines or fittings is leaking air. Are there bubbles visible in the clear fuel feed line? Mike Snow > > As well as sucking diesel it is sucking air through someplace in the pump. > From forrestking at juno.com Wed Sep 3 20:06:43 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket Message-ID: <20030903.190644.4488.0.forrestking@juno.com> I installed a new head gasket and torqued it to spec. I have to drive for 1000 miles before I turn the bolts again, but the head gasket has started leaking!! Can I just tighten it down now? or do I have to pull it and do it all over again? Forrest ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From drillock at earthlink.net Wed Sep 3 18:32:59 2003 From: drillock at earthlink.net (mark drillock) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket References: <20030903.190644.4488.0.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <3F56883B.636B9E6D@earthlink.net> It is VERY important to completely clean out the bolt holes in the block before inserting the head bolts. Otherwise a bolt may bottom out in coolant, oil, or debris and give a false indication of the torque value. I use a soda straw in a vacuum cleaner hose to get all dirt and fluids out of each bolt hole. Of course sometimes heads warp badly and then the gaskets may leak no matter what you do. Mark Forrest L King wrote: > > I installed a new head gasket and torqued it to spec. I have to drive > for 1000 miles before I turn the bolts again, but the head gasket has > started leaking!! Can I just tighten it down now? or do I have to pull > it and do it all over again? > From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 3 18:36:43 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Leaking headgasket ---- ( more info please ). Message-ID: <002001c3727e$9ac8c300$21ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] A good hillbilly would say "why not torque down" , so that's what I would = do . But where is the leak ???. Better have a gasket handy , and do a be= tter job next time. And pray a lot and use body English , stop at not= hing. I have a secret weapon for diesel head-gaskets that work. May have to tell= you. Hagar. Sure is a PIA right ??? ---at least it is summer. count your blessings. -- From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 3 18:45:31 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 41. -- ( from a hillbilly ) Message-ID: <002101c3727e$9ba2f660$21ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Today I blew my "HILLBILLY" cover all to hell. I bumped in to a fella , wh= o had 4 brand new Bosch nozzles. He said he sold his VW ------ so today I= installed new nozzles in the 1984 Turbo 1.6L Rabbit. No self respecting hi= llbilly would do that with 30 old (more or less) serviceable nozzles in a c= offee can. The most amazing difference was how they differed in the te= ster. Bentleys pressure change versus shim thickness did not agree with = what took place here. Just got back from a test-drive --- WOW .- fantastic. Here is what I did. 1984 Turbo Rabbit with 253 000 km on dash. Removed a= ll injectors and replaced nozzles and adjusted pressure to a tad below 200= 0 psi. To do # 2 loosen pump and turn away from head, that gives enough roo= m=2EAs a matter of fact I was surprised by how easy the whole deal was.( my= first turbo job ). Hagar. -- From r.c.brown at ieee.org Wed Sep 3 19:25:50 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket References: <20030903.190644.4488.0.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <3F56949E.3C68CCE0@ieee.org> Forrest L King wrote: > > I installed a new head gasket and torqued it to spec. I have to drive > for 1000 miles before I turn the bolts again, but the head gasket has > started leaking!! Can I just tighten it down now? or do I have to pull > it and do it all over again? Might be worth investing in a set of Raceware (or ARP) head studs. -- Roger From forrestking at juno.com Wed Sep 3 21:30:57 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket Message-ID: <20030903.203057.4488.1.forrestking@juno.com> anybody know a good VW shop in Houston or Galveston? ? I just moved here and I don't have a clue where to go for service. My apartments do not allow me to do ANY maintenance on my cars. Forrest ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From r.c.brown at ieee.org Wed Sep 3 20:56:25 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket References: <20030903.203057.4488.1.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <3F56A9D9.CB84772A@ieee.org> Forrest L King wrote: > > anybody know a good VW shop in Houston or Galveston? ? > I just moved here and I don't have a clue where to go for service. My > apartments do not allow me to do ANY maintenance on my cars. I only have one shop listed in Ft. Worth on my page: http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/VWdieselShops.shtml#Texas -- Roger From LBaird119 at aol.com Thu Sep 4 01:11:50 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket Message-ID: <124.2563be55.2c881586@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Not really going to hurt anything to torque it on down but it's not very likely to fix anything either. :( Most commonly it would be dirt or oil on one of the surfaces upon assembly or a warped head and it don't take much. Loren From ea82t at yahoo.co.uk Thu Sep 4 09:51:31 2003 From: ea82t at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?Simon=20Rook?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injector lines FLEXIBLE ? --- ( Available ? --yes. ) In-Reply-To: <157.23f68390.2c876ed8@aol.com> Message-ID: <20030904075131.82232.qmail@web20908.mail.yahoo.com> Loren, Don't think so..idle pressure (and injector opening) is about 200bar, at full load the line pressure (due to flow restriction in the injector tip) is typically about 500bar (depending on application and therefore how much fuel your flowing, the VE is capable of nearly 600bar in applications like the Cummins engines) Simon --- LBaird119@aol.com wrote: > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > With peak injection pressure on a VE pump of 500 bar > (7,500psi) you'll be chancing your arm methinks! > > Problem is that if the pump's running anywhere > near those pressures > there's a problem that's likely to damage the pump. > I'd rather blow a line > than rebuild the pump. :) Normal operating > pressures are well below > 3K. > Loren > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://mail.messenger.yahoo.co.uk From korn at simnet.is Thu Sep 4 11:07:35 2003 From: korn at simnet.is (Martin K) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel References: <000e01c3685b$89fd5720$60ccb5d0@prcn.org> <3F46B7EF.BAACBF15@simnet.is> <3F566DD6.9644C21C@simnet.is> <3F568044.1030406@cox.net> Message-ID: <3F570ECE.6B70ED24@simnet.is> > > As well as sucking diesel it is sucking air through someplace in the pump. > What makes you think air is entering into the pump through a pump leak? > The pump runs at very high internal pressure. It's much more likely > that one of your fuel lines or fittings is leaking air. Are there > bubbles visible in the clear fuel feed line? > > Mike Snow I am not sure about this at all. Probably meant to write that it is sucking diesel through someplace into the pump. I had not intended to put this problem to the group yet. I had just observed the air but not investigated furthur. The innline is clear, just where the returnline goes out you can visibly see air gushing out about every 4 or so cycles. My first guess is to chance another out line and observe. There are no fuel leaks at the injector pipes or the fuel return hoses. Martin From ea82t at yahoo.co.uk Thu Sep 4 13:43:26 2003 From: ea82t at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?Simon=20Rook?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] leaking head gasket In-Reply-To: <1062675044.31628.5.camel@gary.bangs.lan> Message-ID: <20030904114326.67542.qmail@web20913.mail.yahoo.com> personally I run a tap down with grease on to lift out any swarf..... Simon --- gary wrote: > Forrest, > Sorry, I have to ask... > Did you do the third, hot, 90* turn? > > (Sigh) Besides that, I don't think you have much > choice but to pull the > head and try again. Like the others have said, make > absolutely sure all > of the bolt holes are clean(chased) and clear of all > debris. I always > use a blast of air to blow out these holes, followed > by solvent, then > another blast of air. > > -Gary > > On Wed, 2003-09-03 at 20:06, Forrest L King wrote: > > I installed a new head gasket and torqued it to > spec. I have to drive > > for 1000 miles before I turn the bolts again, but > the head gasket has > > started leaking!! Can I just tighten it down now? > or do I have to pull > > it and do it all over again? > > > > > > Forrest > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://mail.messenger.yahoo.co.uk From mwsnow at cox.net Thu Sep 4 06:01:28 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel In-Reply-To: <3F570ECE.6B70ED24@simnet.is> References: <000e01c3685b$89fd5720$60ccb5d0@prcn.org> <3F46B7EF.BAACBF15@simnet.is> <3F566DD6.9644C21C@simnet.is> <3F568044.1030406@cox.net> <3F570ECE.6B70ED24@simnet.is> Message-ID: <3F572998.4070303@cox.net> I suspect that it will disappear soon. It takes a bit of running to purge all of the air from the pump. If it doesn't stop by itself, I would check the sealing washer at the pump fuel inlet. Mike Snow > I am not sure about this at all. > Probably meant to write that > it is sucking diesel through someplace into the pump. > > I had not intended to put this problem to the group yet. > I had just observed the air but not investigated furthur. > The innline is clear, just where the returnline goes out you can > visibly see air gushing out about every 4 or so cycles. > My first guess is to chance another out line and observe. > There are no fuel leaks at the injector pipes or the fuel return hoses. > > Martin From scameron at compmore.net Thu Sep 4 11:09:27 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030904140927.006713ac@mail.compmore.net> At 10:07 AM 9/4/03 +0000, you wrote: > I had just observed the air but not investigated furthur. >The innline is clear, just where the returnline goes out you can >visibly see air gushing out about every 4 or so cycles. If no air is entering the suck line, it is probably a small amount of leakage at the shaft seal. A worn shaft seal will allow the vane pump tosuck a little air in while running, and, usually, let a little fuel run out at the shaft end when at rest. Another symtom of shaft seal leakage is the pump going dry overnight, as fuel is "syphoned" back to the tank, which is lower than the pump. Volks installs at the factory, a check valve in the supply line (and return line on some models) to prevent reverse syphoning when car is at rest. A significant test is to park the car nose down over night, and it starts ok in the morning, but nose up, it is starved. My old crock (500,000km) has a bit of leakage there, and all of the above happen, in addition to loosing it when the fuel is low in thetank. I have installed an outboard motor type squeeze bulb in the supply line to deal with the occasional no-start problem. Check valve: located at front edge of right rear weel well, in the supply line comming from the water separator. A plastic widget about 1/2" dia. and 1/2" long, spliced into the rubber part of the line. Fragile: I have had one separate at the joint between the 2 halves of the body and leak air into the line when running, leak fuel when stopped. Flakey: I had one get sticky when I was running veggie/diesel mix. It would stick open a little, probably crud loosened from the inside of the tank by the veggie oil. opened one and observed that it has a little rubber disc in it that the veggie may have softened or made sticky. It would not close completely in reverse, and was sticky opening in forward. Expensive: Dealership quoted $60 for it. We both laughed at the same time!. Moral: Always strip parters completely, salvage all you can at the yard when shopping other stuff, they're usually free Part-outs: I recently bought an 86 for the engine. which seemed to run well.Broken subframe. I parted everything. entire fuel system, lines, engine mounts, dash, kept the front end. should have kept the hood (damn deer) Don't need doors right now, but clean trunk lid in woodshed. Usually you can get someone to pay you $35 for the corpse, as long as it has wheels on the back. Save everything you can store (the scotchman saves the pig's squeal for his pipes) Most of what I saved is going into a gas carat, along with the engine. Stop press: A neighbour who is selling his house has just given me another gas Carat, full set aluminum wheels (automatic, ugh) for $1. He drove it to my yard. Might even put it back on the road (with steel wheels) Sandy From ea82t at yahoo.co.uk Thu Sep 4 17:07:09 2003 From: ea82t at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?Simon=20Rook?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20030904140927.006713ac@mail.compmore.net> Message-ID: <20030904150710.79513.qmail@web20902.mail.yahoo.com> As Bio diesel dissolves most neoprene based rubbers (as well as attacking zinc protected lines and creating sediment when stood for too long) I doubt that it was crud loosened from the tank! Simon --- Sandy Cameron wrote: > At 10:07 AM 9/4/03 +0000, you wrote: > > > I had just observed the air but not investigated > furthur. > >The innline is clear, just where the returnline > goes out you can > >visibly see air gushing out about every 4 or so > cycles. > > If no air is entering the suck line, it is probably > a small amount of > leakage at the shaft seal. > > A worn shaft seal will allow the vane pump tosuck a > little air in while > running, and, usually, let a little fuel run out at > the shaft end when at rest. > > Another symtom of shaft seal leakage is the pump > going dry overnight, as > fuel is "syphoned" back to the tank, which is lower > than the pump. > Volks installs at the factory, a check valve in the > supply line (and return > line on some models) to prevent reverse syphoning > when car is at rest. > > A significant test is to park the car nose down over > night, and it starts ok > in the morning, but nose up, it is starved. > > My old crock (500,000km) has a bit of leakage there, > and all of the above > happen, in addition to loosing it when the fuel is > low in thetank. > > I have installed an outboard motor type squeeze bulb > in the supply line to > deal with the occasional no-start problem. > > Check valve: > located at front edge of right rear weel well, in > the supply line comming > from the water separator. A plastic widget about > 1/2" dia. and 1/2" long, > spliced into the rubber part of the line. > > Fragile: I have had one separate at the joint > between the 2 halves of the > body and leak air into the line when running, leak > fuel when stopped. > > Flakey: I had one get sticky when I was running > veggie/diesel mix. It would > stick open a little, probably crud loosened from the > inside of the tank by > the veggie oil. > opened one and observed that it has a little rubber > disc in it that the > veggie may have softened or made sticky. It would > not close completely in > reverse, and was sticky opening in forward. > > Expensive: Dealership quoted $60 for it. We both > laughed at the same time!. > > Moral: Always strip parters completely, salvage all > you can at the yard > when shopping other stuff, they're usually free > > Part-outs: I recently bought an 86 for the engine. > which seemed to run > well.Broken subframe. > I parted everything. entire fuel system, lines, > engine mounts, dash, kept > the front end. should have kept the hood (damn deer) > Don't need doors right > now, but clean trunk lid in woodshed. Usually you > can get someone to pay you > $35 for the corpse, as long as it has wheels on the > back. Save everything > you can store (the scotchman saves the pig's squeal > for his pipes) Most of > what I saved is going into a gas carat, along with > the engine. > > Stop press: A neighbour who is selling his house > has just given me another > gas Carat, full set aluminum wheels (automatic, ugh) > for $1. He drove it to > my yard. > Might even put it back on the road (with steel > wheels) > > Sandy > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://mail.messenger.yahoo.co.uk From h_hagar at prcn.org Thu Sep 4 12:13:23 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pumps Bosch ----- ( good news for OLD Volks ) Message-ID: <000e01c37310$649a2340$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The pumps ??? 1.5L NA 1.6L NA 1.6L turbo --- 4 cylinder. It took me a lot of time to get the spec.'s for internal pressure. If one o= f you can verify that these are the numbers please let us know. At issue is= the timing system. It takes a lot of force to overcome Torque and friction= of roller assembly in housing. Besides the return-spring is one stiff cust= omer. I shall test spring some other time. Piston is about 2 cm ( about 1 "= ) in diameter. Here are the figures : at 500 rpm 2.4 to 3 Bar = at 750 rpm 3.5 to 4.1 Bar at 1000 rpm 4.6 to 5.2 Bar. S= o now we can test those delightful little masterpieces of German engineerin= g=2E. I have a special test banjo and 1.5 inch gauge that I am willing to let o= thers use according to some rules. The test-gauges do turbo boost and pump = pressure while driving. Mounts just in front of windshield. In gap between = hood and body. Can also tell you how to make the banjo. = Hagar PS: I understand the rpm to be pump , remember 2 to 1 ratio.. -- From william at taygan.com Thu Sep 4 13:58:28 2003 From: william at taygan.com (Will Taygan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Parking brake cable - plastic hose covering #s References: <000e01c37310$649a2340$1da8fea9@prcn.org> Message-ID: <000a01c3731e$fb8c12a0$e788520c@finneyg9nhzs76> 1982 diesel Jetta 1.6NA Anyone know the part number for the rubber/plastic hose covering and fittings that seal the parking brake cable from the wheel housing to the metal lines welded under the car? I only need the left side, the PO seems to have had brake shoe fixing problems and cut the cables, one side is missing. I imaginge it's a fairly cheap part, but I think the local junkyard that has an a1 Jetta will charge me as much used as for a new one. As for headlights, I jumped the low beams with an extra in-line fuse and am in the process of putting a relay in for the high beams.. Thanks Roger for the info. Wow - this fuse block is toast, but enough things are still working that I can bypass what I need. It's a well used Jetta, so I'm putting $$ into safety (brakes, engine) and not into looks. Thanks, Will Taygan 81 vw diesel pickup 82 vw diesel jetta Concrete, WA From natewall1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 4 14:23:11 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Parking brake cable - plastic hose covering #s In-Reply-To: <000a01c3731e$fb8c12a0$e788520c@finneyg9nhzs76> Message-ID: <20030904202311.93215.qmail@web80702.mail.yahoo.com> Well, if its like the A-2 Jettas, each parking brake cable is bought and replaced seperately. The plastic/rubber cable coverings and sheath is part of the parking brake cable assembly. They are not available seperately. VW charges about $48 per side (cable assembly), but Olympic Import Parts has them for $18. --Nate --- Will Taygan wrote: > 1982 diesel Jetta 1.6NA > > Anyone know the part number for the rubber/plastic > hose covering and > fittings that seal the parking brake cable from the > wheel housing to the > metal lines welded under the car? > > I only need the left side, the PO seems to have had > brake shoe fixing > problems and cut the cables, one side is missing. I > imaginge it's a fairly > cheap part, but I think the local junkyard that has > an a1 Jetta will charge > me as much used as for a new one. > > As for headlights, I jumped the low beams with an > extra in-line fuse and am > in the process of putting a relay in for the high > beams.. Thanks Roger for > the info. Wow - this fuse block is toast, but > enough things are still > working that I can bypass what I need. It's a well > used Jetta, so I'm > putting $$ into safety (brakes, engine) and not into > looks. > > Thanks, > > Will Taygan > 81 vw diesel pickup > 82 vw diesel jetta > Concrete, WA > > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From LBaird119 at aol.com Thu Sep 4 17:34:41 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Parking brake cable - plastic hose covering #s Message-ID: <190.1f4a0210.2c88fbe1@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Anyone know the part number for the rubber/plastic hose covering and fittings that seal the parking brake cable from the wheel housing to the metal lines welded under the car? That would be your parking brake cable. Same for left and right, about $10 new. :) They come complete, new cable and housing. Loren From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Thu Sep 4 20:29:11 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Ham Radio in 03 Jetta Message-ID: <200309042329.TAA03060@swamps.roc.ny.us> I'm trying to figure how I'll mount a dual-band ham radio in my 03 TDI Jetta. For starters, I'm looking at loosing the area under the environmental controls. Actually, if I knew I could find a control block, taking less realestate of of another car, I would. Wasted space, otherwise good for a ham radio... The point of this...has anyone dealt with similar mounting issues, that would want to share some of what he did? With my 92 diesel jetta, it was easy. I cut out the ashtray and lighter, and dropped the radio in. On the Rabbits, I just hung the radio under the dash, in the middle of the car. Perfect. Thanks in advance for any pointers, ideas or helpful comments. Val From engle31 at comcast.net Fri Sep 5 00:09:07 2003 From: engle31 at comcast.net (Paul Engle) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 84 Jetta Diesel Coupe Message-ID: <000d01c3735b$13f8da80$6500a8c0@engle3> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Not mine, saw this in another forum. Thought I'd pass it along. Located in = Mesa, AZ '84 Jetta 2dr coupe with sunroof Diesel. Needs injection pump help. This is= a rust free Arizona car that would make an excellent commuter or good cani= date for a gas conversion for a cool street ride. Newer tires and half shaf= t=2E Good compression eed to sell asap asking $375 o.b.o. or trade for pre= 67 type 3 in any condition or call 480-540-1862 -- [ emthup.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Thu Sep 4 23:58:53 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Ham Radio in 03 Jetta References: <200309042329.TAA03060@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <001501c3735a$19d13de0$6600a8c0@lee> > I'm trying to figure how I'll mount a dual-band ham radio in my 03 TDI Jetta. Friend of mine had an A4 Jetta, he used an FT-90 with a remote kit. The radio went into the trunk, hung off of the bottom of the parcel shelf right next to the power outlet. The remote head was attached to the dash, and the microphone and speaker came out of the center console. It worked very well and looked great. That FT-90 is TINY! 73 DE Lee KB1GNI From forrestking at juno.com Thu Sep 4 23:18:29 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Ham Radio in 03 Jetta Message-ID: <20030904.221849.3804.0.forrestking@juno.com> VAl, no help for your problem, but whats your call? KD5YQV, here. Forrest On Thu, 4 Sep 2003 19:29:11 -0400 (EDT) Val Christian writes: > I'm trying to figure how I'll mount a dual-band ham radio in my 03 > TDI Jetta. > For starters, I'm looking at loosing the area under the > environmental controls. > Actually, if I knew I could find a control block, taking less > realestate > of of another car, I would. Wasted space, otherwise good for a ham > radio... > > The point of this...has anyone dealt with similar mounting issues, > that would > want to share some of what he did? > > With my 92 diesel jetta, it was easy. I cut out the ashtray and > lighter, and > dropped the radio in. On the Rabbits, I just hung the radio under > the dash, > in the middle of the car. Perfect. > > Thanks in advance for any pointers, ideas or helpful comments. > > Val > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Fri Sep 5 10:20:55 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Ham Radio in 03 Jetta In-Reply-To: <6b.18661929.2c89d113@aol.com> from "W3wjr@aol.com" at Sep 05, 2003 07:44:19 AM Message-ID: <200309051320.JAA06652@swamps.roc.ny.us> Thanks for your ideas. Right now, I'm looking at a roof mount antenna (that's the easy part). I don't know about the speaker, After trying to fit newer radios, and looking at their functionality, I'm thinking I'll stick with my old 732 Kenwood (I already have one in the 92 Jetta). But I'd gladly buy a new radio if it fit well. I was considering pulling two switches by the 4 way flasher and placing a FT-90r there, but the radio looks too big for the holes. There's a rectangular hole behind the lowest trim on the console, which could host a mic connector. About the fit...the curved plastic at the top of the tray by the shifter pops off, so I can cut a wedge of maple, angled, so that I can look at the display readily. It'll leave a big gap to the right of the display, so I figure I stuff the mic there when not using it. I thought that ultimately, I'd drill some holes in the kickboard area, and mount a speaker there. Since I'm a big guy (6-4 or 6-5 on a good day), I like the legroom, and stuffing a radio there is not a good idea. The mic in the shifter tray gets around the tripping over the cord (grin). The head on the 732, or just about any other dual band radio is detatchable, so there's allot of mounting flexibility. After I pull the shrouds and panels I'll have a better idea of where to mount the radio itself, but I think that I can attach it to the walls of the plastic between the console and the dash. Ditto for the duplexor. Any problems with RF getting into the TDI electronics? Any interference or birdies from the vehicle electronics? BTW, the 92 Jetta was REAL easy. I used a saw to cut out the ash tray, and lighter. Mounted the whole radio in the hole, and it looks like it was meant to be there. The duplexor is velcroed to the wall of the console to shifter wall. In 12 years, I've had to pull it about 5 times. PL-259s on the duplexor get loose (3x), and I've had the VHF final power module fail (2x). The power module got fixed by opening it up, and finding the solder joint failure, and reflowing it, with a copper bridge wire. Val n2epo > > 98 Jetta, same problem, nowhere to put radio. I run a cheep kenwood 2m only. > the only place I could find was on the drivers side kick panel. Believe it > or not, its easy to see what frequency the radio is on, you can reach the > volume and squelch pretty easy, and I use the mike for changing frequencies, VFO > -Memory, etc. > > I also installed a remote speaker in the only wasted space in the car, that > little pocket in front of the shifter. > > Only problem is the mike is stored in the seat pocket, and if your not > careful you can trip over the mike cable when you get out. I already made it about > 8' long one time when it was tied around my leg as I got out of the car. > > I spend several weeks thinking where the radio could go, that's the only > place that little kenwood would fit. > > > > In a message dated 9/4/2003 9:30:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > val@swamps.roc.ny.us writes: > The point of this...has anyone dealt with similar mounting issues, that would > want to share some of what he did? > > -------------------------------1062762259 > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > t=3Dutf-8"> > > f"> >
>
98 Jetta, same problem, nowhere to put radio.  I run a cheep kenwo= > od 2m only.  the only place I could find was on the drivers side kick p= > anel.  Believe it or not, its easy to see what frequency the radio is o= > n, you can reach the volume and squelch pretty easy, and I use the mike for=20= > changing frequencies, VFO -Memory, etc.
>
 
>
I also installed a remote speaker in the only wasted space in the car,=20= > that little pocket in front of the shifter.
>
 
>
Only problem is the mike is stored in the seat pocket, and if your not=20= > careful you can trip over the mike cable when you get out.  I already m= > ade it about 8' long one time when it was tied around my leg as I got out of= > the car.
>
 
>
I spend several weeks thinking where the radio could go, that's the onl= > y place that little kenwood would fit.
>
 
>
 
>
 
>
In a message dated 9/4/2003 9:30:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, val@swamp= > s.roc.ny.us writes:
>
2px solid">The point of this...has anyone dealt with simi= > lar mounting issues, that would
want to share some of what he did?= >
>
> > -------------------------------1062762259-- > From william at taygan.com Fri Sep 5 09:11:00 2003 From: william at taygan.com (Will Taygan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Parking brake cable - plastic hose covering #s References: <190.1f4a0210.2c88fbe1@aol.com> Message-ID: <001801c373c0$11d7db60$208b520c@finneyg9nhzs76> Thanks, I would have spent a LONG time looking for that part number :) Will Taygan ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Parking brake cable - plastic hose covering #s > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Anyone know the part number for the rubber/plastic hose covering and > fittings that seal the parking brake cable from the wheel housing to the > metal lines welded under the car? > > > That would be your parking brake cable. Same for left and right, about $10 > new. :) They come complete, new cable and housing. > Loren > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > From h_hagar at prcn.org Fri Sep 5 11:51:21 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Blotter testing 101 part 6 -- ( here is the MEAT ) Message-ID: <000201c373db$44328720$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Did test 13 Aug 2003 . Today I analyze spots. One on blotter and one on = IBM printer paper . Printer wins hands down. The printer-paper test is more difficult to do , but well worth it. I st= rongly advise you to be misled by my hillbilly outdated nonsense and -- DO = it. Next oil-change ---oil hot put a drop on paper. Precision helps. One drop= straight down , then store paper absolutely flat and level for say a week.= Drain oil and lean the pan to get all the old oil out.Then add a quart o= r so of fuel , and slurp around by bouncing car and drain. = .After first drive take another drop ,on paper, and file. The paper I us= ed is now dry enough to put in folder. We can now exchange tests by mail. = The blotter paper I used all the years in the past was made by Domtar it i= s called Blotter- test pulp 8 X 8 . It looks expensive so I recommend us= ing Printer paper. Hagar. -- From h_hagar at prcn.org Sat Sep 6 11:44:08 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Blotter testing 101 part 7 -- ( here is the END ) Message-ID: <000e01c3749e$c785df00$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Yes I do promote the use of blotter testing --- but wait ! am I alone ????= - hell no, let me quote the BIGGEST corporation in the world. Quote : = An oil blotter test is one of the simplest ways to track what's going on in= side an engine.While blotter tests are not a substitute for detailed labora= tory analysis, they can be extremely effective in early detection of improp= er combustion, injector problems, air starvation and coolant leaks. ---= unquote. If you ever catch an impending brake-failure (like I did) or tranny or engi= ne problem, using blotter --- please send me a note. Hagar. -- From kevin.jack at primus.ca Sat Sep 6 19:39:12 2003 From: kevin.jack at primus.ca (Kevin Jack) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! Message-ID: <000e01c374c7$b29f15b0$458afea9@kevin> > Hey Guys > > I havent posted in a while. > > Sometimes when I start my car, while the starter is turning the horn starts > honking crazy. I have no idea why it does this. Has anyone else experienced > this?? > > Thanks > Kevin > From korn at simnet.is Sun Sep 7 00:17:57 2003 From: korn at simnet.is (Martin K) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Engine rebuild, now sucking diesel References: <1.5.4.32.20030904140927.006713ac@mail.compmore.net> Message-ID: <3F5A6AA3.FE047868@simnet.is> After starting the engine for the first time, I had let it run for an hour and then drove it for about 10 km. Then back home I had observed air gushing out the outline in spurts every 4 or so cycles. Today, at a glance, it appeared to be the same or so I assumed . I put 2 litres of ATF into the tank and drove it for about 10km and then let it run for 30mins. I checked it a few hours later and it appears okay. Maybe it did take time to purge the air OR the fuel in the pump swelled up the shaft seal OR the atf did the trick. Sorry I can't be more definite. Thanks for all the advice. On cold start (10C) the engine starts up a split second after ignition and the oil pressure light disappears a second after that. Can't be true, how long can it last? Martin > I suspect that it will disappear soon. It takes a bit of running to > purge all of the air from the pump. If it doesn't stop by itself, I > would check the sealing washer at the pump fuel inlet. > Mike Snow > If no air is entering the suck line, it is probably a small amount of > leakage at the shaft seal. > A worn shaft seal will allow the vane pump tosuck a little air in while > running, and, usually, let a little fuel run out at the shaft end when at rest. > Sandy From scameron at compmore.net Sat Sep 6 20:26:06 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030906232606.0067976c@mail.compmore.net> At 06:39 PM 9/6/03 -0400, you wrote: > > >> Hey Guys >> >> I havent posted in a while. >> >> Sometimes when I start my car, while the starter is turning the horn >starts >> honking crazy. I have no idea why it does this. You have a lot of keys on your ring. When you start, one of them gets between the base of the steering wheel and the fixed part of the column, grounding the horn contact on the back of the wheel, and sounding the horn. Try moving one of the extra keys into that space (ignition must be on) and prove it for yourself. This has been posted before. Sandy From kevin.jack at primus.ca Sat Sep 6 21:23:42 2003 From: kevin.jack at primus.ca (Kevin Jack) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: Fw: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! Message-ID: <000b01c374d6$4f30d6d0$458afea9@kevin> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Jack" To: "Sandy Cameron" Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 7:36 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! > Thank you very much. Sorry, I didnt think this would have been a common > problem, so I didnt check the archives. > > Ill try that out. > > Kevin > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Sandy Cameron" > To: "Kevin Jack" ; > Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 7:26 PM > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! > > > > At 06:39 PM 9/6/03 -0400, you wrote: > > > > > > > > >> Hey Guys > > >> > > >> I havent posted in a while. > > >> > > >> Sometimes when I start my car, while the starter is turning the horn > > >starts > > >> honking crazy. I have no idea why it does this. > > > > You have a lot of keys on your ring. > > When you start, one of them gets between the base of the steering wheel > and > > the fixed part of the column, grounding the horn contact on the back of > the > > wheel, and sounding the horn. > > > > Try moving one of the extra keys into that space (ignition must be on) and > > prove it for yourself. > > > > This has been posted before. > > > > Sandy > > > > > From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sat Sep 6 22:12:33 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20030906232606.0067976c@mail.compmore.net> from "Sandy Cameron" at Sep 06, 2003 07:26:06 PM Message-ID: <200309070112.VAA16742@swamps.roc.ny.us> For the life of my 92 Jetta, I have had this problem, intermittently. It's not because of a large wad of keys. I only carry one key, alone, without a ring or fob. So there's not an extra key getting into the equation. I've had it that after I tap the starter, the horn stays on for a time between 100 msec and about 10 seconds. Usually the duration is less than 2 seconds. Val > > At 06:39 PM 9/6/03 -0400, you wrote: > > > > > >> Hey Guys > >> > >> I havent posted in a while. > >> > >> Sometimes when I start my car, while the starter is turning the horn > >starts > >> honking crazy. I have no idea why it does this. > > You have a lot of keys on your ring. > When you start, one of them gets between the base of the steering wheel and > the fixed part of the column, grounding the horn contact on the back of the > wheel, and sounding the horn. > > Try moving one of the extra keys into that space (ignition must be on) and > prove it for yourself. > > This has been posted before. > > Sandy > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From kevin.jack at primus.ca Sat Sep 6 23:59:33 2003 From: kevin.jack at primus.ca (Kevin Jack) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! References: <200309070112.VAA16742@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <000901c374ec$11137ea0$458afea9@kevin> Oh no! I thought it was going to be simple. Hopefully mine is the key thing. Tommorrow ill check it out, if its not that, then maybe Ill pull the fuse. Let me know if anyone knows anything else. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Val Christian" To: Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 9:12 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! > For the life of my 92 Jetta, I have had this problem, intermittently. > It's not because of a large wad of keys. I only carry one key, alone, > without a ring or fob. So there's not an extra key getting into the > equation. > > I've had it that after I tap the starter, the horn stays on for a time > between 100 msec and about 10 seconds. Usually the duration is less than > 2 seconds. > > Val > > > > > > > At 06:39 PM 9/6/03 -0400, you wrote: > > > > > > > > >> Hey Guys > > >> > > >> I havent posted in a while. > > >> > > >> Sometimes when I start my car, while the starter is turning the horn > > >starts > > >> honking crazy. I have no idea why it does this. > > > > You have a lot of keys on your ring. > > When you start, one of them gets between the base of the steering wheel and > > the fixed part of the column, grounding the horn contact on the back of the > > wheel, and sounding the horn. > > > > Try moving one of the extra keys into that space (ignition must be on) and > > prove it for yourself. > > > > This has been posted before. > > > > Sandy > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From scott3491 at insightbb.com Sun Sep 7 06:05:12 2003 From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem Message-ID: <004401c37529$4e365b80$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> >>Oh no! I thought it was going to be simple. Hopefully mine is the key thing. Tommorrow ill check it out, if its not that, then maybe Ill pull the fuse. Let me know if anyone knows anything else.<< Usually it's a key slipping into the space between the steering wheel and column. Second tier cause is gunk buildup around the contacts in the column. A good shot of tuner cleaner/ electronic parts cleaner, the kind that evaporates and leaves no residue, around the entire wheel-column interface can dissolve the crud and clean the contacts. Had that problem with an old Jetta years ago. Cleaner ran out the bottom a nasty brown color. Evidently PO had spilled coffee or pop in there, liquid evaporated leaving just enough solid to bridge the contacts when the wheel was in the right position. HTH, Scott Kair From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Sun Sep 7 10:17:38 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem! References: <200309070112.VAA16742@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <007f01c37542$df352800$6600a8c0@lee> > For the life of my 92 Jetta, I have had this problem, intermittently. > It's not because of a large wad of keys. I only carry one key, alone, > without a ring or fob. So there's not an extra key getting into the > equation. > > I've had it that after I tap the starter, the horn stays on for a time > between 100 msec and about 10 seconds. Usually the duration is less than > 2 seconds. On a different but related note, the horn on my '87 Quantum (gasser) began sounding off with a random toot here and there while driving down the road, usually. Sometimes it would do it when the steering wheel was turned while the car was at rest, though. I eventually traced it to the brass contact on the back of the steering wheel. The finger on the column that makes contact with it had actually worn through in the area which corresponded to straight ahead and thin brass "fingers" sticking out from the ring were making contact with the metal on the column as the wheel was turned from left to right. I pulled the steering wheel and replaced the slip ring with one from another wheel I had laying around, and the problem went away. Pretty simple fix once I knew what was going on but it was a little difficult to figure out in the first place. A thin smear of grease might have prevented the wear that caused the ring to wear out, but lubing your horn contacts was not something I had assigned a very high priority to....... :-)) Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From h_hagar at prcn.org Sun Sep 7 11:20:07 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem --- ( problem solved ) Message-ID: <000e01c37564$b52b5080$68ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Are you guys trying to electrocute me ??? . On a 1982 Rabbit ---yes a sp= are key does it. 10 minutes ago my little hornblower played quite a tune .= Here is my take on it. The steering wheel slipring is not insulated= and if it is grounded blows the horn. I got quite a poke connecting two = keys. Hagar. PS: The ignition key need not be in the lock. Just take a voltmeter probe a= nd to ground. -- From dieseltdi at earthlink.net Sun Sep 7 22:57:45 2003 From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Solution for gas pedal "grommet" Message-ID: <389A2634-E1A8-11D7-AA8C-000A959B975C@earthlink.net> As many of you know, I am currently putting a 81 Pickup back together. Today I was finishing some inside work under the dash and noticed that the gas pedal was missing the notorious fiber grommet that is suppose to hold the end of the accelerator cable. After looking at the size of the hole and considering what parts I had around, I came up with a solution for this problem. I happened to have some of the plastic grommets that are used on the transmission linkage. I used one of the white ones that are used on the transfer rod. With a little glue to hold it in place it fit very snug in the opening. Then I took a piece of fuel return hose about 1" long and slid it over the hook portion of the cable and pushed it into the grommet. Fits tight enough to keep the cable from falling out but loose enough to allow it to move properly. Cheap fix for a big problem. Just thought I would pass this along for those who have the same problem (probably everyone with an A-1). Hayden Visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi Proud owner of: 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI (Upsolute Tuning Box) 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane dual fuel system, 101K+ miles, and now running on B100) 2 - 1981 Rabbit Pickups (slowly being morphed into one truck with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine) Will burn biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system. And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle, to Vans, Rabbits, Karmen Ghias, Jettas, Passats, Dashers, Pickups and many others both air and water-cooled now gone but not forgotten. From forrestking at juno.com Sun Sep 7 23:57:23 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Head Studs - wanted !! Message-ID: <20030907.225723.860.3.forrestking@juno.com> I am looking to buy head studs - 1. does anybody have a set for the 12mm 1.6 Diesel they want to sell? 2. Raceware wants 179 bucks - just can't do that. anybody know of a group buy? 3. ARP does not list studs for the 1.6D, only for the gassers, and they told me those were 11mm??? They said if I would get the dimensions of the studs they could throw a set together for me in less than a day. Anybody know the length, pitch and diameter (I assume that would be 12mm) - they told me they has 7/16 listed as the VW size?? Is that the same as 12mm? (really???) 4. Does anybody out there have any other suppliers for headstuds? I'd like to keep my cash outlay in the 130 dollar area - Next subject : I think my head gasket is leaking (i told y'all this last week). I did all of the torque sequnces per the Bentley, but it started leaking before I got to 1000 miles for the final set. I aknowledge the suggestions for cleaning out the holes to prevent a false torque value, or splitting the block. It is possible that I had liquid in a hole, however I did blow them out with an air gun, so possible, but not likely. I want to pull the engine apart and see if I can tell where the engine is leaking from - I do not want to spend 160 dollars on the engine if this will not fix it (130 headstuds +30 headgasket). The engine is undriveable right now, so I am not hurting it by pulling it apart. My question is this : When I remove the head, will there be any VISIBLE signs that indicate a leak? My water is currently dirty (sooty) but it has no oil in it, and my oil is currently clean (well, normal, not clean, lol). I suspect the headgasket because I just had the valves set (remeber that saga?) and the piston rings are new and the block is not worn. The engine is running on 2 or 3 cylinders at low speed but evens out at high speed. The coolant is not overpressurizing (or I am not noticing it while zipping down the highway) but it is getting dirty. thanks in advance Forrest, again. ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 8 07:44:58 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Head Studs - wanted !! In-Reply-To: <20030907.225723.860.3.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <20030908134458.69850.qmail@web80710.mail.yahoo.com> <<>> Well, in my case there was! I had a slow coolant leak that began right afdter I put new rings in. I could not see where it was leaking, since it was somewhere behind the injection pump bracket/inner timing belt cover. Aluma-Seal stopped it. Teardown revealed a crack right through the right front head bolt hole in the block--Ouch! Coolant residue was seeping out of the crack. Even though I cleaned out the bolt holes, I cracked the block upon installing the head! --Nate --- Forrest L King wrote: > I am looking to buy head studs - > > 1. does anybody have a set for the 12mm 1.6 Diesel > they want to sell? > > 2. Raceware wants 179 bucks - just can't do that. > anybody know of a > group buy? > > 3. ARP does not list studs for the 1.6D, only for > the gassers, and they > told me those were 11mm??? They said if I would > get the dimensions of > the studs they could throw a set together for me in > less than a day. > Anybody know the length, pitch and diameter (I > assume that would be 12mm) > - they told me they has 7/16 listed as the VW > size?? Is that the same > as 12mm? (really???) > > 4. Does anybody out there have any other suppliers > for headstuds? I'd > like to keep my cash outlay in the 130 dollar area > - > > > Next subject : I think my head gasket is leaking > (i told y'all this > last week). I did all of the torque sequnces per > the Bentley, but it > started leaking before I got to 1000 miles for the > final set. I > aknowledge the suggestions for cleaning out the > holes to prevent a false > torque value, or splitting the block. It is > possible that I had liquid > in a hole, however I did blow them out with an air > gun, so possible, but > not likely. > > I want to pull the engine apart and see if I can > tell where the engine is > leaking from - I do not want to spend 160 dollars on > the engine if this > will not fix it (130 headstuds +30 headgasket). > The engine is > undriveable right now, so I am not hurting it by > pulling it apart. My > question is this : When I remove the head, will > there be any VISIBLE > signs that indicate a leak? > > My water is currently dirty (sooty) but it has no > oil in it, and my oil > is currently clean (well, normal, not clean, lol). I > suspect the > headgasket because I just had the valves set > (remeber that saga?) and > the piston rings are new and the block is not worn. > The engine is > running on 2 or 3 cylinders at low speed but evens > out at high speed. > The coolant is not overpressurizing (or I am not > noticing it while > zipping down the highway) but it is getting dirty. > > thanks in advance > > Forrest, again. > > ________________________________________________________________ > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno > SpeedBand! > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up > today! > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 8 07:44:58 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Head Studs - wanted !! In-Reply-To: <20030907.225723.860.3.forrestking@juno.com> Message-ID: <20030908134458.69850.qmail@web80710.mail.yahoo.com> <<>> Well, in my case there was! I had a slow coolant leak that began right afdter I put new rings in. I could not see where it was leaking, since it was somewhere behind the injection pump bracket/inner timing belt cover. Aluma-Seal stopped it. Teardown revealed a crack right through the right front head bolt hole in the block--Ouch! Coolant residue was seeping out of the crack. Even though I cleaned out the bolt holes, I cracked the block upon installing the head! --Nate --- Forrest L King wrote: > I am looking to buy head studs - > > 1. does anybody have a set for the 12mm 1.6 Diesel > they want to sell? > > 2. Raceware wants 179 bucks - just can't do that. > anybody know of a > group buy? > > 3. ARP does not list studs for the 1.6D, only for > the gassers, and they > told me those were 11mm??? They said if I would > get the dimensions of > the studs they could throw a set together for me in > less than a day. > Anybody know the length, pitch and diameter (I > assume that would be 12mm) > - they told me they has 7/16 listed as the VW > size?? Is that the same > as 12mm? (really???) > > 4. Does anybody out there have any other suppliers > for headstuds? I'd > like to keep my cash outlay in the 130 dollar area > - > > > Next subject : I think my head gasket is leaking > (i told y'all this > last week). I did all of the torque sequnces per > the Bentley, but it > started leaking before I got to 1000 miles for the > final set. I > aknowledge the suggestions for cleaning out the > holes to prevent a false > torque value, or splitting the block. It is > possible that I had liquid > in a hole, however I did blow them out with an air > gun, so possible, but > not likely. > > I want to pull the engine apart and see if I can > tell where the engine is > leaking from - I do not want to spend 160 dollars on > the engine if this > will not fix it (130 headstuds +30 headgasket). > The engine is > undriveable right now, so I am not hurting it by > pulling it apart. My > question is this : When I remove the head, will > there be any VISIBLE > signs that indicate a leak? > > My water is currently dirty (sooty) but it has no > oil in it, and my oil > is currently clean (well, normal, not clean, lol). I > suspect the > headgasket because I just had the valves set > (remeber that saga?) and > the piston rings are new and the block is not worn. > The engine is > running on 2 or 3 cylinders at low speed but evens > out at high speed. > The coolant is not overpressurizing (or I am not > noticing it while > zipping down the highway) but it is getting dirty. > > thanks in advance > > Forrest, again. > > ________________________________________________________________ > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno > SpeedBand! > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up > today! > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From db53248 at alltel.net Mon Sep 8 17:59:53 2003 From: db53248 at alltel.net (Pam & Doug Boes) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems Message-ID: <001501c37654$88d1ff20$0200000a@alltel.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I used to have the horn on-all-the time problem. I wedged a piece of paper = between the horn button and the steering wheel to stop the horn. One day I = pulled it out and there was no horn. I can hear the relay clicking but ther= e is no horn no more. What could be the problem? -- From db53248 at alltel.net Mon Sep 8 18:04:20 2003 From: db53248 at alltel.net (Pam & Doug Boes) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: vwdiesel digest, Vol 1 #745 - 5 msgs References: <20030908160205.2351.84350.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <005601c37655$28295140$0200000a@alltel.net> Forrest: Raceware has sales on the studs where they are only $159. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 08, 2003 11:02 AM Subject: vwdiesel digest, Vol 1 #745 - 5 msgs > Send vwdiesel mailing list submissions to > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > vwdiesel-request@vwfans.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of vwdiesel digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Weird horn problem --- ( problem solved ) (H .Hagar) > 2. Solution for gas pedal "grommet" (Hayden Chasteen) > 3. Head Studs - wanted !! (Forrest L King) > 4. Re: Head Studs - wanted !! (Nate Wall) > 5. Re: Head Studs - wanted !! (Nate Wall) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > From: "H .Hagar" > To: > Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 10:20:07 -0700 > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Weird horn problem --- ( problem solved ) > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Are you guys trying to electrocute me ??? . On a 1982 Rabbit ---yes a sp= > are key does it. 10 minutes ago my little hornblower played quite a tune .= > Here is my take on it. The steering wheel slipring is not insulated= > and if it is grounded blows the horn. I got quite a poke connecting two = > keys. Hagar. > > PS: The ignition key need not be in the lock. Just take a voltmeter probe a= > nd to ground. > -- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 21:57:45 -0500 > From: Hayden Chasteen > To: Audi-VW-diesels Mail list , > VW diesel mail list , > VW Pickup Mail list > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Solution for gas pedal "grommet" > > As many of you know, I am currently putting a 81 Pickup back together. > Today I was finishing some inside work under the dash and noticed that > the gas pedal was missing the notorious fiber grommet that is suppose > to hold the end of the accelerator cable. After looking at the size of > the hole and considering what parts I had around, I came up with a > solution for this problem. I happened to have some of the plastic > grommets that are used on the transmission linkage. I used one of the > white ones that are used on the transfer rod. With a little glue to > hold it in place it fit very snug in the opening. Then I took a piece > of fuel return hose about 1" long and slid it over the hook portion of > the cable and pushed it into the grommet. Fits tight enough to keep > the cable from falling out but loose enough to allow it to move > properly. Cheap fix for a big problem. Just thought I would pass this > along for those who have the same problem (probably everyone with an > A-1). Hayden > > Visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi > Proud owner of: > 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI (Upsolute Tuning Box) > 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane > dual fuel system, 101K+ miles, and now running on B100) > 2 - 1981 Rabbit Pickups (slowly being morphed into one truck with a > freshly rebuilt turbo engine) Will burn biodiesel and WVO with a > propane injection system. > And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle, to Vans, Rabbits, Karmen > Ghias, Jettas, Passats, Dashers, Pickups and many others both air and > water-cooled now gone but not forgotten. > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > To: vwdiesel@audifans.com > Cc: vwdiesel@audifans.com > Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2003 22:57:23 -0500 > From: Forrest L King > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Head Studs - wanted !! > > I am looking to buy head studs - > > 1. does anybody have a set for the 12mm 1.6 Diesel they want to sell? > > 2. Raceware wants 179 bucks - just can't do that. anybody know of a > group buy? > > 3. ARP does not list studs for the 1.6D, only for the gassers, and they > told me those were 11mm??? They said if I would get the dimensions of > the studs they could throw a set together for me in less than a day. > Anybody know the length, pitch and diameter (I assume that would be 12mm) > - they told me they has 7/16 listed as the VW size?? Is that the same > as 12mm? (really???) > > 4. Does anybody out there have any other suppliers for headstuds? I'd > like to keep my cash outlay in the 130 dollar area - > > > Next subject : I think my head gasket is leaking (i told y'all this > last week). I did all of the torque sequnces per the Bentley, but it > started leaking before I got to 1000 miles for the final set. I > aknowledge the suggestions for cleaning out the holes to prevent a false > torque value, or splitting the block. It is possible that I had liquid > in a hole, however I did blow them out with an air gun, so possible, but > not likely. > > I want to pull the engine apart and see if I can tell where the engine is > leaking from - I do not want to spend 160 dollars on the engine if this > will not fix it (130 headstuds +30 headgasket). The engine is > undriveable right now, so I am not hurting it by pulling it apart. My > question is this : When I remove the head, will there be any VISIBLE > signs that indicate a leak? > > My water is currently dirty (sooty) but it has no oil in it, and my oil > is currently clean (well, normal, not clean, lol). I suspect the > headgasket because I just had the valves set (remeber that saga?) and > the piston rings are new and the block is not worn. The engine is > running on 2 or 3 cylinders at low speed but evens out at high speed. > The coolant is not overpressurizing (or I am not noticing it while > zipping down the highway) but it is getting dirty. > > thanks in advance > > Forrest, again. > > ________________________________________________________________ > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 06:44:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Nate Wall > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Head Studs - wanted !! > To: Forrest L King , vwdiesel@audifans.com > Cc: vwdiesel@audifans.com > > << signs that indicate a leak?>>> > > Well, in my case there was! I had a slow coolant leak > that began right afdter I put new rings in. I could > not see where it was leaking, since it was somewhere > behind the injection pump bracket/inner timing belt > cover. Aluma-Seal stopped it. Teardown revealed a > crack right through the right front head bolt hole in > the block--Ouch! Coolant residue was seeping out of > the crack. Even though I cleaned out the bolt holes, I > cracked the block upon installing the head! > > --Nate > > --- Forrest L King wrote: > > I am looking to buy head studs - > > > > 1. does anybody have a set for the 12mm 1.6 Diesel > > they want to sell? > > > > 2. Raceware wants 179 bucks - just can't do that. > > anybody know of a > > group buy? > > > > 3. ARP does not list studs for the 1.6D, only for > > the gassers, and they > > told me those were 11mm??? They said if I would > > get the dimensions of > > the studs they could throw a set together for me in > > less than a day. > > Anybody know the length, pitch and diameter (I > > assume that would be 12mm) > > - they told me they has 7/16 listed as the VW > > size?? Is that the same > > as 12mm? (really???) > > > > 4. Does anybody out there have any other suppliers > > for headstuds? I'd > > like to keep my cash outlay in the 130 dollar area > > - > > > > > > Next subject : I think my head gasket is leaking > > (i told y'all this > > last week). I did all of the torque sequnces per > > the Bentley, but it > > started leaking before I got to 1000 miles for the > > final set. I > > aknowledge the suggestions for cleaning out the > > holes to prevent a false > > torque value, or splitting the block. It is > > possible that I had liquid > > in a hole, however I did blow them out with an air > > gun, so possible, but > > not likely. > > > > I want to pull the engine apart and see if I can > > tell where the engine is > > leaking from - I do not want to spend 160 dollars on > > the engine if this > > will not fix it (130 headstuds +30 headgasket). > > The engine is > > undriveable right now, so I am not hurting it by > > pulling it apart. My > > question is this : When I remove the head, will > > there be any VISIBLE > > signs that indicate a leak? > > > > My water is currently dirty (sooty) but it has no > > oil in it, and my oil > > is currently clean (well, normal, not clean, lol). I > > suspect the > > headgasket because I just had the valves set > > (remeber that saga?) and > > the piston rings are new and the block is not worn. > > The engine is > > running on 2 or 3 cylinders at low speed but evens > > out at high speed. > > The coolant is not overpressurizing (or I am not > > noticing it while > > zipping down the highway) but it is getting dirty. > > > > thanks in advance > > > > Forrest, again. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno > > SpeedBand! > > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up > > today! > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2003 06:44:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Nate Wall > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Head Studs - wanted !! > To: Forrest L King , vwdiesel@audifans.com > Cc: vwdiesel@audifans.com > > << signs that indicate a leak?>>> > > Well, in my case there was! I had a slow coolant leak > that began right afdter I put new rings in. I could > not see where it was leaking, since it was somewhere > behind the injection pump bracket/inner timing belt > cover. Aluma-Seal stopped it. Teardown revealed a > crack right through the right front head bolt hole in > the block--Ouch! Coolant residue was seeping out of > the crack. Even though I cleaned out the bolt holes, I > cracked the block upon installing the head! > > --Nate > > --- Forrest L King wrote: > > I am looking to buy head studs - > > > > 1. does anybody have a set for the 12mm 1.6 Diesel > > they want to sell? > > > > 2. Raceware wants 179 bucks - just can't do that. > > anybody know of a > > group buy? > > > > 3. ARP does not list studs for the 1.6D, only for > > the gassers, and they > > told me those were 11mm??? They said if I would > > get the dimensions of > > the studs they could throw a set together for me in > > less than a day. > > Anybody know the length, pitch and diameter (I > > assume that would be 12mm) > > - they told me they has 7/16 listed as the VW > > size?? Is that the same > > as 12mm? (really???) > > > > 4. Does anybody out there have any other suppliers > > for headstuds? I'd > > like to keep my cash outlay in the 130 dollar area > > - > > > > > > Next subject : I think my head gasket is leaking > > (i told y'all this > > last week). I did all of the torque sequnces per > > the Bentley, but it > > started leaking before I got to 1000 miles for the > > final set. I > > aknowledge the suggestions for cleaning out the > > holes to prevent a false > > torque value, or splitting the block. It is > > possible that I had liquid > > in a hole, however I did blow them out with an air > > gun, so possible, but > > not likely. > > > > I want to pull the engine apart and see if I can > > tell where the engine is > > leaking from - I do not want to spend 160 dollars on > > the engine if this > > will not fix it (130 headstuds +30 headgasket). > > The engine is > > undriveable right now, so I am not hurting it by > > pulling it apart. My > > question is this : When I remove the head, will > > there be any VISIBLE > > signs that indicate a leak? > > > > My water is currently dirty (sooty) but it has no > > oil in it, and my oil > > is currently clean (well, normal, not clean, lol). I > > suspect the > > headgasket because I just had the valves set > > (remeber that saga?) and > > the piston rings are new and the block is not worn. > > The engine is > > running on 2 or 3 cylinders at low speed but evens > > out at high speed. > > The coolant is not overpressurizing (or I am not > > noticing it while > > zipping down the highway) but it is getting dirty. > > > > thanks in advance > > > > Forrest, again. > > > > > ________________________________________________________________ > > The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno > > SpeedBand! > > Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! > > Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up > > today! > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > End of vwdiesel Digest > From forrestking at juno.com Mon Sep 8 18:40:39 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:03:59 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: vwdiesel digest, Vol 1 #745 - 5 msgs Message-ID: <20030908.174317.1792.1.forrestking@juno.com> > Forrest: Raceware has sales on the studs where they are only $159. > Do I have to ask for this special, or just watch for a sale? Forrest ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From william at taygan.com Mon Sep 8 17:22:39 2003 From: william at taygan.com (william@taygan.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems Message-ID: <20030908232239.7303.qmail@webmail-2-2.secureserver.net> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Try checking the wires at the horn itself.. Mine seem to jiggle loose. Will Taygan 81 vw diesel pickup 82 vw diesel jetta Concrete, WA -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems From: "Pam & Doug Boes" Date: Mon, September 08, 2003 2:59 pm To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I used to have the horn on-all-the time problem. I wedged a piece of paper between the horn button and the steering wheel to stop the horn. One day I pulled it out and there was no horn. I can hear the relay clicking but there is no horn no more. What could be the problem? -- _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From h_hagar at prcn.org Mon Sep 8 19:56:40 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wierd horn problems -- ( Hagar blowing his horn ) Message-ID: <000c01c37675$f9e6a780$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Today I messed around a bit with the horn on a 1882 Rabbit. Why would= I do that ??? I never Never Never use the horn in traffic or to tell the l= ady to hurry up. If you can hear the relay click , just touch the relays and use the button = to click then you can feel which relay. The spark I got yesterday made me w= onder if there was no relay. Coil pulls about 50 to 80 mA. Now my horn= quit . = Hagar. -- From dscc at ticon.net Mon Sep 8 22:00:00 2003 From: dscc at ticon.net (dscc) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air Conditioner failed Message-ID: <3F5D3420.A4E829C8@ticon.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I need to replace the condenser and receiver/dryer according to my dealership. They want $1200.00. I have several questions: 1. 1. Can I find the parts cheaper than $530/condensor & $170.00 dryer? 2. 2. Is it difficult to do??? 3. 3. Any known hazards by doing it myself? don -- Content-Description: Card for dscc [ dscc.vcf of type text/x-vcard deleted ] -- From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Mon Sep 8 22:24:42 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air Conditioner failed In-Reply-To: <3F5D3420.A4E829C8@ticon.net> from "dscc" at Sep 08, 2003 09:00:00 PM Message-ID: <200309090124.VAA29648@swamps.roc.ny.us> Answers below... > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I need to replace the condenser and receiver/dryer according to my > dealership. They want $1200.00. I have several questions: > > 1. 1. Can I find the parts cheaper than $530/condensor & $170.00 > dryer? last condensor I bought was about $225US. Aftermarket. Dryers are between $15 and $35. I don't remember, but I would guess I paid $25 or $30. > 2. 2. Is it difficult to do??? No, except you need three things: -vacuum pump to evac the system prior to charging it -a manifold gauge set to properly charge it -a source of either R-12 or R-134a, depending upon which your system takes. > 3. 3. Any known hazards by doing it myself? Primary hazard is of burns from leaking freon (shouldn't happen, but does.) Ask if you have more questions. Val > > don > -- > Content-Description: Card for dscc > > [ dscc.vcf of type text/x-vcard deleted ] > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From weasel1 at sympatico.ca Tue Sep 9 00:09:45 2003 From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (weasel) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems Message-ID: <20030909030945.GWWI7940.tomts21-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> The simplest thing is to remove the wire from the horn and insert a test light. Get someone to operate the horn for you so you can watch and see if the bulb goes on. If it does, then you need a new horn. > > From: william@taygan.com > Date: 2003/09/08 Mon PM 07:22:39 EST > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] horn problems > > [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > Try checking the wires at the horn itself.. Mine seem to jiggle loose. > > Will Taygan > 81 vw diesel pickup > 82 vw diesel jetta > Concrete, WA > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems > From: "Pam & Doug Boes" > Date: Mon, September 08, 2003 2:59 pm > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I used to have the horn on-all-the time problem. I wedged a piece of paper > between the horn button and the steering wheel to stop the horn. One day I > pulled it out and there was no horn. I can hear the relay clicking but there > is no horn no more. What could be the problem? > -- > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 9 00:25:43 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air Conditioner failed Message-ID: <12d.30b6b435.2c8ea237@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] 1. 1. Can I find the parts cheaper than $530/condensor &$170.00 dryer? If you can't then I'll gladly sell you new stuff for those prices! :) Did the condensor get nailed or is that just what the dealer "claims" is bad? I had my evaproator fail and ended up doing it myself since the shop I took it to (to check them out) couldn't find the leak even after I told them I suspected the evaporator if anything! I think it was around $150 a couple years ago for a new evaporator and drier. > 2. 2. Is it difficult to do??? Not really, just disconnect and connect as far as the parts go. If there's R-12 in the system then it's nice to be able to scavange it off. :) Otherwise you need a vacuum pump as mentioned, to pull out any air or moisture and check for leakage. I never could afford one so I got an old refrigerator compressor, silver-soldered the lines shut and put repair schrader valves on the lines. I can now evacuate or scavange. :) Works great but you need a set of gauges and ideally an extra hose for scavanging. > 3. 3. Any known hazards by doing it myself? > No open flame around the freon, don't cut yourself on any sharp fins, use NEW, proper O-rings on any union you break open! Wipe a dab of refirgeration oil on them before assembling. You should be able to shake enough out of the old drier or condensor. :) Even if you can't evacuate the system you should be able to get it evacuated and recharged for ~$150 or maybe less (R-12). R-134 would be cheaper by quite a bit. Loren From natewall1 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 07:18:21 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air Conditioner failed In-Reply-To: <200309090124.VAA29648@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <20030909131821.39989.qmail@web80705.mail.yahoo.com> <<>>>> This made me think of something interestinig I did a few years back. My (former) wife's grandfather died and I was liqudating his possessions so a relative could sell his house. He had a REALLY beat up '70s chevy w/ about as much miles on it as my Jetta TD! It had A/C and it worked. My A/C charge was a little low (foam in the sight glass when operating). I was bored one summer day and I got to thinking:, "Could I transfuse the R-12 from the Chevy into my Jetta" before donating the Chevy? Well it worked! I parked the two cars next to each other, as if jumping the battery. Using my A/C manifold guage set, I connected the "High" side of the Chevy to the "Low" side of the Jetta (purged the air from the guage lines first). Then I started the Jetta and turned the A/C on and opened the "Low" valve on the guage set and barely cracked the "High" side valve on the guage set. The "Tap" valve remained closed. No freon flowed into the Jetta. I then started the Chevy and turned its A/C on. Then I would open then quickly close the "High" valve on the guage set several times a minute (to minimize the chance of liquid R-12 locking up the compressor in the Jetta) and the freon was indeed flowing out of the Chevy. Its A/C discharge air became completely warm! The sight glass in the Jetta became completely clear (foamless)! A success! --Nate __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 07:31:21 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems In-Reply-To: <001501c37654$88d1ff20$0200000a@alltel.net> Message-ID: <20030909133121.58856.qmail@web80710.mail.yahoo.com> Not enough voltage? Clean the horn relay contacts, push on terminals (on the horn(s), and that brass contact on the steering wheel. Perhaps pull the steering wheel and bend the contact to press harder on the brass ring. If I have my A/C, headlights, and fog lights on my horns do not work. The lights dim a little when I press the button, though. I need to clean those things I just mentioned too and see if it helps. --Nate --- Pam & Doug Boes wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I used to have the horn on-all-the time problem. I > wedged a piece of paper between the horn button and > the steering wheel to stop the horn. One day I > pulled it out and there was no horn. I can hear the > relay clicking but there is no horn no more. What > could be the problem? > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 07:29:18 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] horn problems In-Reply-To: <001501c37654$88d1ff20$0200000a@alltel.net> Message-ID: <20030909132918.59749.qmail@web80708.mail.yahoo.com> Not enough voltage? Clean the horn relay contacts, push on terminals, and that brass contact on the steering wheel. --- Pam & Doug Boes wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I used to have the horn on-all-the time problem. I > wedged a piece of paper between the horn button and > the steering wheel to stop the horn. One day I > pulled it out and there was no horn. I can hear the > relay clicking but there is no horn no more. What > could be the problem? > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Tue Sep 9 23:23:12 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air Conditioner failed In-Reply-To: <3F5E8649.7F1C93B2@ticon.net> from "dscc" at Sep 09, 2003 09:02:49 PM Message-ID: <200309100223.WAA03853@swamps.roc.ny.us> > Val, > Where did you get the parts from???? I had someone tell me you need to Advance Auto, or Autozone. For my VW Autozone had the condenser and the dryer (special order on the dryer). > prime the lines with a certain oil...any idea on what they are talking > about?? You really don't have to prime the lines, but you should replace any oil lost when your lines blew. That could be an oz or two. I'd probably be conservative and add 3 oz. Some service manuals give guidance on the amount of oil to add per component. You could also take to total system charge of oil, and adjust it for the component damaged, and a factor of whether the leak was slow or fast. You can buy 8oz of oil for $3-5 from your parts place. > I do plan on having someone else evac and reload with R134a. Then have them give you a little oil from their bulk. Having them do the evac is OK, but see if they'll leave the vacuum on for a period of time so that the water has a chance to boil off, and so that any leaks can be detected as a loss in vac. You might consider gauges ($55), tank 30# of 134 $120? 90?, a vacuum pump that runs on compressed air $15 from Harbor Freight. You can also use an old refrig compressor as your vac pump. Just leave the oil in the compressor when you cut it off the refrig. If you still have questions, drop me an email, and give me a phone and time to call. Val > thanks > don > > Val Christian wrote: > > > Answers below... > > > > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > I need to replace the condenser and receiver/dryer according to my > > > dealership. They want $1200.00. I have several questions: > > > > > > 1. 1. Can I find the parts cheaper than $530/condensor & $170.00 > > > dryer? > > > > last condensor I bought was about $225US. Aftermarket. > > Dryers are between $15 and $35. I don't remember, but I would > > guess I paid $25 or $30. > > > > > 2. 2. Is it difficult to do??? > > > > No, except you need three things: > > > > -vacuum pump to evac the system prior to charging it > > -a manifold gauge set to properly charge it > > -a source of either R-12 or R-134a, depending upon which > > your system takes. > > > > > 3. 3. Any known hazards by doing it myself? > > > > Primary hazard is of burns from leaking freon (shouldn't > > happen, but does.) > > > > Ask if you have more questions. > > > > Val > > > > > > > > don > > > -- > > > Content-Description: Card for dscc > > > > > > [ dscc.vcf of type text/x-vcard deleted ] > > > -- > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > --------------243BBEB734B666A0E00DE06C > Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; > name="dscc.vcf" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > Content-Description: Card for dscc > Content-Disposition: attachment; > filename="dscc.vcf" > > begin:vcard > n:Baloun;Don & Susan > x-mozilla-html:FALSE > adr:;;;;;; > version:2.1 > email;internet:dscc@ticon.net > fn:Don & Susan Baloun > end:vcard > > --------------243BBEB734B666A0E00DE06C-- > From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 10 11:34:35 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Horn troubles in Rabbits 1980 to 1986. Message-ID: <000e01c377c2$43fb2880$9bccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The 1982 Rabbit horn now works every time , instead of when it felt like it= . But it cost me a meltdown in plastic covered wires to fuel solenoid . Ha= ve not found anything that does not work so far.I am mentioning this to say= that the wiring for solenoid may not be protected by a fuse. So when you d= o injectors be careful.To be safe insulate terminal on solenoid . I am givi= ng mine a blob of silastic today.Trust me. The trouble was the grounding of horn itself. I still do not intend to use = it unless a copper orders me to do so. Trust me. The relay on the cannibalized 1980 was a 40 amp and the 1982 was a 16 am= p=2E ???. Hagar. -- From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Wed Sep 10 21:21:45 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] ID this Glowplug please ! References: <000e01c377c2$43fb2880$9bccb5d0@prcn.org> Message-ID: <000a01c377f2$4d84b6c0$56fba4c6@livingroom> Hi All, A friend at work gave me this (1) glowplug today, left over from his 91? Golf (or could possibly be from a Rabbit), diesel and he thinks it was a 1.6L I hooked up the glowpug to the ohmmeter, showed about 0.2 Ohms (200 milliOhms) " " " " a 12VDC battery and it smoked a little and got pretty darn hot. (did not glow). Question is, will it fit in my 88 Jetta Turbo Diesel 1.6L engine? Markings are: Bosch 0250 200 052 11V 041 (I think the ID# may just be the 250 200 052 part but not sure) It takes a 12mm socket and the hot "plug" part on it is aprox an inch long I suppose. I think I may have 1 or 2 bad glowplugs (have yet to check) and if this would fit, I'll use it. Ideas? Hints? Kinks? Comments? At locally $60++tax, I'd hate to buy new if I could get this one to work, then maybe snag another one used, possibly from someone on here. TI Advance Mike in NB (and for Hagar....."73"......) LOL From forrestking at juno.com Wed Sep 10 21:27:36 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] ID this Glowplug please ! Message-ID: <20030910.202737.3328.2.forrestking@juno.com> 60 bucks each? no way. you can order the from www.vwdieselparts.com or www.germanautoparts.com or www.vwparts.com . around here Autozone (like flaps, or whatever they have up north) can order them for about 8 bucks each. Why bother putting in an unkknown plug? You will probably spend more than 8 dollars in effort installing and removing the plug if it fails, I'd go with a sure bet and buy new. Forrest On Wed, 10 Sep 2003 20:21:45 -0300 "Mike & Coreen Smith" writes: > Hi All, > A friend at work gave me this (1) glowplug today, left over from his > 91? > Golf (or could possibly be from a Rabbit), diesel and he thinks it > was a > 1.6L > I hooked up the glowpug to the ohmmeter, showed about 0.2 Ohms (200 > milliOhms) > " " " " a 12VDC battery and it > smoked a > little and got pretty darn hot. (did not glow). > > Question is, will it fit in my 88 Jetta Turbo Diesel 1.6L engine? > > Markings are: > Bosch 0250 200 052 11V 041 (I think the ID# may just be the 250 > 200 052 > part but not sure) > It takes a 12mm socket and the hot "plug" part on it is aprox an > inch long I > suppose. > > I think I may have 1 or 2 bad glowplugs (have yet to check) and if > this > would fit, I'll use it. > > Ideas? Hints? Kinks? Comments? > > At locally $60++tax, I'd hate to buy new if I could get this one to > work, > then maybe snag another one used, possibly from someone on here. > > TI Advance > Mike in NB (and for Hagar....."73"......) LOL > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 10 22:14:05 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glowplugs ID's ---- ( for a fellow Hammer and all ) Message-ID: <002e01c3781b$43d52c80$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Mike Smith a QSL would be nice , but a lobster better. It took me a long = time to get the real story about VW glowplugs right from Mr. Bosch himself.= On the way I got a lot of strange versions. In short look at the plug , = the top nut (with the groove and staked) should be white metal . Then you g= ot the first line (slow) the 200 is the ID . The fast plugs (second line= ) has yellow metal top and ID is 201. To test either plug connect to 12 V and measure current shoul be around 10= Amps. Use ac or dc for test. Should glow after say 10 seconds. By the way = I carry a long glowplug in trunk as emergency solder iron. You can mix up old and new with the slow Relay installed , but not with the= fast relay. The old plugs will burn out if used for afterglow ,as in the t= urbo Jettas. So you probably need a 201 for your Jetta.Winter is coming so = get it now. For winter starting use 18 volts for starting in the morning. 6= V in series with lead to starter. Check your plugs and see if they all have yellow tops. Go for the yellow an= d stick to BOSCH only , if you can not get a jonbbers with buildt in ballas= t resistor. ---- 73 ---- PS: I am sitting here with a brand new yellow in my hand that I am not usin= g you can have it for 59.99 or a lobster. To test plugs without disconnecti= n anything . use Mv scale and measure drop on buss. Almost forgot --- the new plugs are designed for a 3 minute dutycycle. goo= d for 3 minutes ON. -- From natewall1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 11 07:31:11 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] ID this Glowplug please ! In-Reply-To: <000a01c377f2$4d84b6c0$56fba4c6@livingroom> Message-ID: <20030911133111.16281.qmail@web80705.mail.yahoo.com> The Jetta TD takes a "fast golw" plug (Not sure where that "NOTE" came from in Bentely manual about TDs using slow glow plugs to reduce smoking when cold, perhaps this was for '84 and earlier, my '85 TD had the fast plugs from the factory!). The plug you have is either a "slow" glow, or is defective. A fast glow plug, hooked up to a 12V car battery, w/in a second or two, glows BRIGHT orange to yellow. It also has a brass collar (as opposed to an aluminum one for the "slows". New Bosch plugs are about 12 US dollars at your favorite German parts jobber, or if you wish to help the VW dealers profit margin, about $30 from VW. Do not use ANYTHING other than Bosch. Trust me on this! --nate --- Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > Hi All, > A friend at work gave me this (1) glowplug today, > left over from his 91? > Golf (or could possibly be from a Rabbit), diesel > and he thinks it was a > 1.6L > I hooked up the glowpug to the ohmmeter, showed > about 0.2 Ohms (200 > milliOhms) > " " " " a 12VDC > battery and it smoked a > little and got pretty darn hot. (did not glow). > > Question is, will it fit in my 88 Jetta Turbo Diesel > 1.6L engine? > > Markings are: > Bosch 0250 200 052 11V 041 (I think the ID# may > just be the 250 200 052 > part but not sure) > It takes a 12mm socket and the hot "plug" part on it > is aprox an inch long I > suppose. > > I think I may have 1 or 2 bad glowplugs (have yet to > check) and if this > would fit, I'll use it. > > Ideas? Hints? Kinks? Comments? > > At locally $60++tax, I'd hate to buy new if I could > get this one to work, > then maybe snag another one used, possibly from > someone on here. > > TI Advance > Mike in NB (and for Hagar....."73"......) LOL > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From LBaird119 at aol.com Thu Sep 11 17:23:15 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Horn troubles in Rabbits 1980 to 1986. Message-ID: <39.3da903b6.2c9233b3@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The trouble was the grounding of horn itself. I still do not intend to use it unless a copper orders me to do so. Trust me. 98% of the time I use mine (or would if that particular one WOULD work) is to beep at someone I know. Not to honk in traffic. :) Loren From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Fri Sep 12 00:41:30 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Horn troubles in Rabbits 1980 to 1986. References: <39.3da903b6.2c9233b3@aol.com> Message-ID: <009401c378df$fb05b040$6600a8c0@lee> I still do not intend to use it > unless a copper orders me to do so. Trust me. > > > 98% of the time I use mine (or would if that particular one WOULD work) > is to beep at someone I know. Not to honk in traffic. :) I used mine the other day to warn a daydreaming dog that he was crossing the road in front of me. Saved me telling the owner that I ran over his dog, and who knows what on repairs. Horns have a use. Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From scott3491 at insightbb.com Fri Sep 12 06:19:00 2003 From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Horn troubles Message-ID: <004301c37919$787ff1a0$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> >>98% of the time I use mine (or would if that particular one WOULD work) > is to beep at someone I know. Not to honk in traffic. :) > I used mine the other day to warn a daydreaming dog that he was crossing the road in front of me. Saved me telling the owner that I ran over his dog, and who knows what on repairs.< One of the times the city brought in the insurance carrier's Safety Man for a lecture, the subject of horns came up. The company's take was that the time it takes to find and hit the horn can be better used for hazard avoidance. The exception was for animals. Another point was that aggressive use of horns can be considered evidence of "road rage." Thirty years ago, when I moved to NYC, they had just passed an anti-noise ordinance that prohibited unnecessary use of automobile horns. I pulled onto an off-ramp, where traffic was stalled. It turned out that a cop was third in line at the light, and when the first guy didn't move fast enough when the light changed, the second guy hit his horn. The cop flipped on his lights and wrote the second guy a ticket. When people behind started honking at the delay, the partner just walked down the line writing tickets. Fortunately, I hadn't finished unpacking yet... Scott Kair From h_hagar at prcn.org Fri Sep 12 07:54:35 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Horn troubles in Rabbits 1980 to 1986 -- ( Blowing your horn ) Message-ID: <000e01c37936$6aee41a0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] OK fellas I admit it , I was bragging (blowing my horn) but it is close t= o the truth . You all have valid points so let me be clear I am for having= a functional horn. When I got the # 2 1980 Rabbit ("Bunny Blue") and open= ed the hood ----wow a fully functional AIRHORN compressor and all. Then = I made the mistake of putting my blowgun nozzle to the rubber hose , to see= how loud it would go. Her voice cord broke ---cry cry. I still remember horns on model T's with a rubber squeeze bulb's -- Is a = bell still legal anywhere ??? stop me I am getting carried away. 06 00 i= n the morning. Must be the water. In investigating the horn on the 19= 82 I discovered that steel blades were used in main fuse-panel and on relay= s=2EDISGUSTING what the hell are they doing over there , they know better t= han that. --- SO remember to use lots of Vaseline on relays when you plu= g them in. Hagar. PS: I am using a freon boat-horn to get the deer out of the way when landin= g an ultralight without brakes.Killed a dog taking off one day. ---All user= s of horns should be taught the use af standard signals like morse. like so= s=2E Any really good horn tales out there ???. -- From ethan at forward.ca Fri Sep 12 18:30:35 2003 From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fuel filter weirdness In-Reply-To: <000e01c37936$6aee41a0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> Message-ID: <004001c37975$1a5ad200$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> I need to replace the fuel filter on my 92TD. The Bosch unit that I looked at from Canadian Tire has the inlet and outlet barbs and some kind of weird structure with an o ring on the od. What's up with that? The filter in the car has the two barbs and a plugged port. Who makes a good filter and where do I get it? Ethan From scameron at compmore.net Fri Sep 12 19:54:43 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fuel filter weirdness Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030912225443.00667a88@mail.compmore.net> At 05:30 PM 9/12/03 -0400, you wrote: >I need to replace the fuel filter on my 92TD. The Bosch unit that I >looked at from Canadian Tire has the inlet and outlet barbs and some >kind of weird structure with an o ring on the od. What's up with that? > >The filter in the car has the two barbs and a plugged port. > >Who makes a good filter and where do I get it? Up to about 89, they used just 2 barbs, after that, there was a "recycle" thermostatvalve in the top of the filter, and the return line passed through that, returning to the filter to warm up the filter in cold weather. Once the filter was up to temp, the return fuel switched back to the tank. Sandy From ethan at forward.ca Fri Sep 12 20:33:27 2003 From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fuel filter weirdness In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20030912225443.00667a88@mail.compmore.net> Message-ID: <005001c37986$44cbeea0$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Is it worth replacing the valve or should I just use an older filter? Ethan -----Original Message----- From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com] On Behalf Of Sandy Cameron Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 6:55 PM To: Ethan Vos; vwdiesel@vwfans.com Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Fuel filter weirdness At 05:30 PM 9/12/03 -0400, you wrote: >I need to replace the fuel filter on my 92TD. The Bosch unit that I >looked at from Canadian Tire has the inlet and outlet barbs and some >kind of weird structure with an o ring on the od. What's up with that? > >The filter in the car has the two barbs and a plugged port. > >Who makes a good filter and where do I get it? Up to about 89, they used just 2 barbs, after that, there was a "recycle" thermostatvalve in the top of the filter, and the return line passed through that, returning to the filter to warm up the filter in cold weather. Once the filter was up to temp, the return fuel switched back to the tank. Sandy _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From scameron at compmore.net Fri Sep 12 20:52:07 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fuel filter weirdness Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030912235207.0066810c@mail.compmore.net> At 07:33 PM 9/12/03 -0400, you wrote: >Is it worth replacing the valve or should I just use an older filter? > If you can get a filter of the old style, it's the easiest thing to do, but if you can't, and want to install the bypass widget, I don't think it comes with the filter, and you would have to get it from a dealer. You might be surprised(and so would I) at how much it might cost. You would also be able to get the older style filter at a dealer $35 to $40CD. Sandy From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com Fri Sep 12 22:41:58 2003 From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] re glowplugs Message-ID: Mike, the part number you provided is the correct glow plug for your car, 0 250 200 052 is a fast glow plug for all 80-92 diesel VWs (crosses to 80010 part number which is current) They are available in Canada in the $15 range for Bosch Greg _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From scott3491 at insightbb.com Fri Sep 12 22:55:57 2003 From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fuel filter weirdness Message-ID: <00e001c379a4$fd6d44e0$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> >Is it worth replacing the valve or should I just use an older filter?< The newer style filter is at least $10 US more than the older ones, from aftermarket sources. The valve isn't excruciatingly expensive- under $20 for two- but they are a dealer only item. The plastic tends to crack with age when you change filters, but it doesn't become apparent immediately- you just develop aggravating symptoms of a fuel leak or sucking air that are difficult to track down the first time it happens. The valve is a metallic disk that opens or closes at around +50F; it sends warmer return fuel from the pump back to the pump. I replaced the valve and stayed with the newer style filter. It only got down to about -5 or -10F last winter, but the engine didn't seem to stumble nearly as much at colder temp startup. HTH, Scott Kair From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Sat Sep 13 09:23:56 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] re glowplugs References: Message-ID: <002f01c379e9$85e95c70$e094b3cf@livingroom> I wonder why the local VW dealer wants $60+ tax for them then??? ----- Original Message ----- From: "greg rich" To: Sent: Friday, September 12, 2003 10:41 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] re glowplugs > Mike, the part number you provided is the correct glow plug for your car, 0 > 250 200 052 is a fast glow plug for all 80-92 diesel VWs (crosses to 80010 > part number which is current) > They are available in Canada in the $15 range for Bosch > Greg > > _________________________________________________________________ > Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From ethan at forward.ca Sat Sep 13 11:11:43 2003 From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Replacing the fuel filter - biodiesel In-Reply-To: <002f01c379e9$85e95c70$e094b3cf@livingroom> Message-ID: <005201c37a00$f5d6f580$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Ok, I got the correct fuel filter and installed it. Now the car will barely start and will rev to 2,000 rpm for an instant and then drop to almost nothing. It looks like there is air in the line from the filter to the pump. How can this be bled out? BTW, the filter was replaced after putting in 1/2 tank of 100% biodiesel. The car ran a lot better for about 15 km and then died. I assumed that the fuel filter got plugged which is apparently common on older cars when switched to biodiesel. Is there anything in the fuel line before the filter that could have gotten plugged as well? Thanks. Ethan From william at taygan.com Sat Sep 13 09:11:38 2003 From: william at taygan.com (Will Taygan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Replacing the fuel filter - biodiesel References: <005201c37a00$f5d6f580$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000901c37a09$56d72320$3f88520c@finneyg9nhzs76> Sounds like you've got a leak/lost prime in the fuel pump, maybe it pulled some air in when the fuel filter was plugged. Mine did that. After priming the fuel pump all is well again. 1. be very very clean in the procedure 2. unscrew the return fuel banjo at the top of the pump 3. use a funnel and a coffee filter to fill the pump up with CLEAN fuel 4. put it back together and go! HTH! Will Taygan 81 vw diesel pickup on neoterics WVO setup and homemade biodiesel 82 vw diesel jetta almost ready for the road Concrete, WA From ethan at forward.ca Sat Sep 13 13:18:20 2003 From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbles in the fuel line In-Reply-To: <000901c37a09$56d72320$3f88520c@finneyg9nhzs76> Message-ID: <006001c37a12$a5a72320$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Thanks to all who responded to my fuel filter question. I am getting bubbles in the fuel line. I have always heard that this is a result of a leak in the line somewhere. Is it normal for the return line to have bubbles? Where is the most likely spot for the leak to be? I can see most of the line except where it goes through the sub frame under the passenger seat. Is it possible that a restriction in the line could cause bubbles from the pump trying to pull a vacuum? Will I cause any damage blowing compressed air through the line from the fuel filter back to the tank? Under the tank on the passenger side is what looks like a box with a round thingy that can be turned. It looks like the fuel lines run in this. What is under there? Thanks. Ethan From weasel1 at sympatico.ca Sat Sep 13 14:41:10 2003 From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (Derek) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbles in the fuel line References: <006001c37a12$a5a72320$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <000801c37a1e$38d6bab0$b043d0d8@derek> > I am getting bubbles in the fuel line. I have always heard that this is > a result of a leak in the line somewhere. Is it normal for the return > line to have bubbles? Yes. > > Where is the most likely spot for the leak to be? I can see most of the > line except where it goes through the sub frame under the passenger > seat. If you have a leak, it will be on the suction line. Tighten any clamps you have. > > Is it possible that a restriction in the line could cause bubbles from > the pump trying to pull a vacuum? Absolutely. Most likely your problem is the fact that the filter got so plugged. Keep on the starter or better yet try and pull fuel through the lines with vacuum pump ( vacuum on the return line ) > > Will I cause any damage blowing compressed air through the line from the > fuel filter back to the tank? Don't think so ... > > Under the tank on the passenger side is what looks like a box with a > round thingy that can be turned. It looks like the fuel lines run in > this. What is under there? You got me on this one !! > Just keep on it and you should fire up. I get this often when my WVO filter plugs. IF I don't switch to diesel fast enough, it will do the same thing. You just have to be persistent. Derek From scott3491 at insightbb.com Sat Sep 13 14:03:56 2003 From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Replacing the fuel filter/ bubbles in fuel lines Message-ID: <001f01c37a21$c5581760$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> >>Under the tank on the passenger side is what looks like a box with a round thingy that can be turned. It looks like the fuel lines run in this. What is under there?<< Serious headaches if you break it. It's a water separator for the fuel system, ingeniously placed where road gunk, salt and water can work their magic. Check in your trunk around the spare tire- you may get lucky and find the original kit for it, which resembles an oversize colostomy bag and tube. The usual failure mode seems to occur after attempting to drain it and consists of fuel leaking from it when the drain tap won't close afterwards. Seriously, it seems to be a redundancy, since fuel filters perform the same function. Due to the possibility of not getting it shut after draining it, I'd consider looking at it only if no other cause becomes apparent. >>Where is the most likely spot for the leak to be? I can see most of the line except where it goes through the sub frame under the passenger seat.<< I should have mentioned this in the earlier post. For some reason, with the newer filter, I really had to crank the clamps on the filter lines down tight. If the only changes you made to the system were the fuel filter, I'd look at them first. BTW, did you fill the new filter with fuel or additive and moisten the O ring/ seal? Keep an eye on the top of the filter if none of that works. The thermoswitch is fairly delicate, and transplanting an older one onto a new filter can crack it. The one that came with my car leaked just a little bit of fuel on top of the new filter, which was detectable only when dirt repeatedly stuck to it. A crack elsewhere on it might let air enter the system. It's also possible for the lines from the tank up to the filter to rot or corrode, but if you weren't getting air before, look to what was changed in the system. HTH, Scott Kair From flub at adelphia.net Sat Sep 13 15:15:02 2003 From: flub at adelphia.net (Bradley Flubacher) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbles in the fuel line References: <006001c37a12$a5a72320$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <3F635EA6.9050308@adelphia.net> If you've recently replaced the fuel filter, or removed fuel lines, I would first start by making sure everything is tight. I've put in new engines and had to tighten up the fittings a bit to stop air bubbles.. Brad Ethan Vos wrote: >Thanks to all who responded to my fuel filter question. > >I am getting bubbles in the fuel line. I have always heard that this is >a result of a leak in the line somewhere. Is it normal for the return >line to have bubbles? > >Where is the most likely spot for the leak to be? I can see most of the >line except where it goes through the sub frame under the passenger >seat. > >Is it possible that a restriction in the line could cause bubbles from >the pump trying to pull a vacuum? > >Will I cause any damage blowing compressed air through the line from the >fuel filter back to the tank? > >Under the tank on the passenger side is what looks like a box with a >round thingy that can be turned. It looks like the fuel lines run in >this. What is under there? > >Thanks. > >Ethan > > > > >_______________________________________________ >vwdiesel mailing list >vwdiesel@vwfans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > From h_hagar at prcn.org Sat Sep 13 12:19:48 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection timing of Old Volks -- ( pump pressure vs RPM ) Message-ID: <001101c37a23$b8fae400$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] To answer your question Ethan Vos , ---- Yes and I posted it . Hagar. PS: Very hard to get information here. And about your filters ---there is a screen in the tank - be careful with the use of air pressure. -- From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Sat Sep 13 17:43:53 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: Message-ID: <002501c37a2f$5e63db80$1cefa68e@livingroom> Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't able to unhook the busbar on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them individually, so did them in parallel. My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4" thick. How do you guys ever get that busbar off behind the injector pump anyway? Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini for room back there. Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs now---hopefully 4. Just for fun I did a voltage check and saw that when the 'plugs are heating, the voltage in my battery drops to about 9.2volts. Seems kinda low..... Comments? 88 Jetta Turbo diesel 1.6L From dcande01 at clarityconnect.com Sat Sep 13 17:44:06 2003 From: dcande01 at clarityconnect.com (dcande01@clarityconnect.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers Message-ID: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> Hi I keep hearing references to intercoolers and have no idea what they are, nor have I been able to find any tutorials or definitions on the web. Where can I learn about intercoolers? Regards Fred Anderson Destruction and Living Hell are, according to this map, just down the road a piece. I can't tell how far, since the scale of the map fluctuates. The Mogambo Guru, From koldrid at uvm.edu Sat Sep 13 18:23:38 2003 From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers In-Reply-To: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> References: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> Message-ID: <1063488218.3f638adacb343@webmail.uvm.edu> Hey Fred, it seems to me that intercoolers are a type of air to air heat exchanger, cooling the intake air after it's compressed by the turbo. When the turbo compresses the intake air, it heats it as well. This is because the turbo is powered by and connected to the exhaust gasses and manifold. The heated air expands, becoming less dense, which has less O2. We want more O2 per unit area in our intake air to facilitate complete combustion of the fuel (ecodiesels). More O2 also allows more fuel to be injected and thus combusted, yielding more power(normal TD). So, the hot compressed air is passed through the intercooler. The air cools, becoming more dense. The end product is compressed air with more O2 and more power. I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with intercoolers, in the US anyway. Is this true? Ken > Hi > I keep hearing references to intercoolers and have no idea what they > are, nor have I been able to find any tutorials or definitions on the > web. Where can I learn about intercoolers? > Regards > Fred Anderson > > > > > Destruction and Living Hell are, > according to this map, just down the road a piece. I can't > tell how far, since the scale of the map fluctuates. > > The Mogambo Guru, > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > -- From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Sat Sep 13 18:46:58 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] re glowplugs References: <002f01c379e9$85e95c70$e094b3cf@livingroom> Message-ID: <003801c37a41$137fa060$6600a8c0@lee> > I wonder why the local VW dealer wants $60+ tax for them then??? > Simply because they can. Unfortunately, not all of us are a member of a list like this nor are as smart nor good-looking as the vast majority of diesel drivers. These are the ones the dealers are targeting. Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Sat Sep 13 19:58:07 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] re glowplugs References: <002f01c379e9$85e95c70$e094b3cf@livingroom> <003801c37a41$137fa060$6600a8c0@lee> Message-ID: <008c01c37a42$20dcfe50$1cefa68e@livingroom> ...and I am talking $60 in Eastern Canada. No doubt you were talking USA somewhere , where parts are always cheaper ! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Hillsgrove" To: Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 6:46 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] re glowplugs > > > I wonder why the local VW dealer wants $60+ tax for them then??? > > > > > > Simply because they can. Unfortunately, not all of us are a member of a > list like this nor are as smart nor good-looking as the vast majority of > diesel drivers. These are the ones the dealers are targeting. > > > Lee > Oo-v-oO > PP-ASEL > KB1GNI > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Sat Sep 13 17:01:42 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers In-Reply-To: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> Message-ID: It's like a radiator for your air. Compressing the intake air charge with a turbocharger heats it up. If you cool it off again after it is compressed, you lower your exhaust gas temps by the approximate same amount (one degree in equals one degree out more or less) all other things being equal. The other benefit is that the intake air charge is then denser, and has more burnable oxygen, hence more fuel can be burned to make more power if needed. -James > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of dcande01@clarityconnect.com > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 2:44 PM > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers > > > Hi > I keep hearing references to intercoolers and have no idea what they > are, nor have I been able to find any tutorials or definitions on the > web. Where can I learn about intercoolers? > Regards > Fred Anderson > > > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Sat Sep 13 19:12:50 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <002501c37a2f$5e63db80$1cefa68e@livingroom> Message-ID: <01af01c37a44$38dbce80$6600a8c0@lee> > Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't able to unhook the busbar > on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them individually, so did them in > parallel. My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4" thick. How do you guys ever > get that busbar off behind the injector pump anyway? > Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini for room back there. > Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs now---hopefully 4. > Here's a reprint of a post I made from archived material a while ago, might be a help to give you some ideas about access to the glow plugs. Some of it might not be exactly what you asked for, but it's all good info: " ">Any tips for getting to the glow plugs behind the pump? I was thinking >of getting a long wrench or welding a piece of metal to a wrench so I >can get to it. > >But after I get the off, how do I get it back on, my hand will barely >fit to get to the two middle ones. > >What have you guys done. I used an 8mm wrench from Sears, one of the new types that is supposed to act like a ratchet on the open end. Can't remember the name, maybe Quick Wrench? They are longer than a standard wrench which allows you to reach those 2 nuts behind the injector pump. I didn't use the special open end, just the box end. Welding an extension to a standard length wrench would accomplish the same thing. It will save time to pull the injector lines. No question. I have used the bent piece of wire trick to start the nuts before with pretty good success. The post-'85 pumps, with the idle speed increasing lever on the back of the pump, offer significantly more challenge. The lever is right in the way. Lee All of them can be removed and replaced without removing injectors or lines, it's just extremely tedious as you have to turn the terminal nut, then the plug, about 1/16 of a revolution per wrench application. It helps immensely to: 1. Get the special long box end wrenches and 2. Fasten a string to the wrench somehow to retrieve it when you drop it (you will) 3. Piece of bent coathanger wire to retrieve nuts when you drop them. Approach the 2 behind the injection pump with a deliberate patient "I'm going to do this if it kills me" attitude. Place a thick piece of carpet over the edge of the fender to ease the pain to the belly from leaning on it so long. -- Sandy Cameron the easiest way is to grab a 17mm, open end wrench and pull the injector lines off. Then an 8mm wrench or socket will get #'s 3 and 4 nuts off. # 2 seems like, will also come off with a regular, combination wrench. # 1 is more challenging. A deep offset boxend wrench is great for it. Now the buss bar is free. Now start in with 12 mm tools. Removing 2, 3 and 4 are fairly easy and # 1 a challenge. Again, a 12mm deep offset box makes it very doable albeit a little slow going, due to the restricted movement. Reassembly: getting the glow plugs into the holes isn't too bad if you have skinny fingers. Just grab by the small threads, by two fingers, and get it in the hole, it will thread from there. Getting the nuts on can be a challenge unless you use a long, small screwdriver or wire. Place the nut on the wire or screwdriver shaft and hold it at the top. Place the bottom end against the threads, hol it ther and let the nut go. You can then get a skinny finger in ther to spin it until it catches a thread, or use another screwdriver to spin it. Now tighten the nuts and you're done. Don't forget to put the red/white stripe wire back on the # 4 glow plug. Some anti seize on the plug to head threads wouldn't hurt either. Loren Regarding the recent discussion on replacing glow plugs etc.:- The method I use to stop the agro when re-attching the bus bar/nuts to the glow plugs after they are re-installed in the head, is to remove the first 1 to 2 threads from the plug down to the root of the threads so that the nut will stay on the stud when you put it there with a wire or somesuch. Then it can be turned without all the problems of it falling off the stud all the time. The only precaution needed is to make sure the thread start is clear of burrs and that the nut will easily engage on the threads when turned, before installing the glow plugs. Bill Osborne Removing the glow plug bus bar nuts are a real pain. Here's an easy trick for the two behind the pump: After you get them loose w/ a wrench (a long handled one helps). take a piece of coat hanger wire about 14 inches long and bend a small "V" at one end. Extend the right side of the V about 5 mm out, horizontally. Take the wire and place its end of its "V" you made against the end of the glow plug stud. Take a thin long screwdriver and unscrew the nut w/ it. The nut will fall of the stud and slide down into the V for easy retrieval. To install take a straight coathanger wire and place one end firmly against the glow plug stud. Slide the nut over the other end. Fiddle around w/ the screwdriver to get the nut started on the stud, while holding the coathanger wire's end against the stud. This method works great for other inaccessible areas, like some of the valve cover nuts. Also, a LONG handle 12 mm wrench is almost a must to reach the glowplugs. --Nate You'll only need a few tools and a lot of eggs because you'll need to beat up something when it's all over. Here's the brief version. Remove all impressionable children from the vicinity. Open the hood and get some good lighting. Have some injector return line on hand, either to replace it all or pieces. Remove the injector lines from both the pump and injectors as a unit and assure all of the lines are fully disconnected before extraction. Do not remove the line clamps. You may have to remove the stop solenoid wire too. You may want to buy a shorty 17 mm open end to ease the R & R of the # line (or make one.) Remove the glow plug supply line and park it out of the way. Here's where the fun starts. If you want the worst first, do #1. It's only buried like some young Pharoah in a vault of aluminum and cast iron, accessible with reason only by people named Carter and a bunch of harried Egyptians scrambling about. (You might want to start the omelet now) Get a good 12 pt-8mm wrench (typical) and remove the nuts on the Buss. Weasel, wiggle or pry off the Buss. Not all new glow plugs come with new Buss nuts so either don't lose them or get extras. Duct tape is not on this list. Yet. A 6pt or 12pt 12mm x-long wrench and PATIENCE! will usually remove the glow plugs. Same with #2. As work your way down to the oh so sensuous #4, which stares at you like a deer, life is getting good. Add onions. Installation requires surgical focus. If you crossthread #1 or #2, you'll need a chicken farm. I use a long pair of needle nose, 10 in., to insert the glow plug into the head with a little anti-seize on the threads and if you don't have hands like Shaq, you can often give a little hand turning before resorting to the wrench. But it's tight as... #2 is also grounds for termination of the engineers but carry on. Tighten well. Remember they're in the compression zone. Install the Buss on all four plugs and don't forget the supply. To install the itsy bitsy nuts I take a thin wire, in this case a 3/32 Tig rod and bend it into an L a bit less than 90 with the leg about a half inch. I put a little grease on the rod to keep the nut from flying off into the black hole and lower it in behind the pump. I put the leg right on the stud and push the nut onto the threads with another rod, then the wrench. It works best for me. I'm sure there are other ways. #3 an #4 are usually easy. Replace the injector lines. Bleeding is not always necessary, most will purge the air through the return but whatever. Replace the other stuff. Now, wasn't the special? Bon appetit and hey, it could be worse, it could be a Peugeot." > >Do I just zap down to the local parts store and buy the replacement >parts? Do I need anything more than the plugs, like special seals, >heat shields, etc., that I am not being informed about? > No heat shields needed, those are for the injectors. Just use a dab of antiseize on the threads. It might be a good idea to test the new plugs before you install them, just to be on the safe side. Remember, "New means not used, new does not mean good". Use a 10 amp battery charger, or carefully use a set of jumper cables off of the battery. If good, they should glow red in a second or two. It might sound stupid, but BE CAREFUL! They get HOT! (Ask me why I know....) They stay hot for quite a while, too. As to what type of plugs to buy, there are two things to keep in mind: Fast or Slow glow, and brand. Being an '85, you -should- have fast glow plugs, but here's how you can tell the difference: "When looking at the little collar right behind the threads for the buss bar nut, just remember this rule. Silver - slow, brass - fast. " Boy, I like copy and paste! As to brand, use nothing but genuine Bosch, IMHO. I have heard horror stories about Champion. Also, if you only replace a few plugs, MAKE SURE you put the new ones behind the injection pump. You'll know why when you change them out. Finally, Roger Brown has a bunch of good info on his site: http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/GlowPlugs.shtml Thanks, Roger!" Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From scameron at compmore.net Sat Sep 13 22:05:40 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbles in the fuel line Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030914010540.006781f0@mail.compmore.net> At 12:18 PM 9/13/03 -0400, you wrote: >Thanks to all who responded to my fuel filter question. > >I am getting bubbles in the fuel line. I have always heard that this is >a result of a leak in the line somewhere. Is it normal for the return >line to have bubbles? > >Where is the most likely spot for the leak to be? I can see most of the >line except where it goes through the sub frame under the passenger >seat. > >Is it possible that a restriction in the line could cause bubbles from >the pump trying to pull a vacuum? Yes. if your lines are pinched or blocked, or the dread check valve is stuck (after using veggie), the pump will pull hard enough to draw air in past the shaft seal, but you will not see this in the suck line, just the return. > >Will I cause any damage blowing compressed air through the line from the >fuel filter back to the tank? The check valve would try to prevent this until it explodes. There are several connections at the water separator. the suck line comes from the tank unit (reached under a round plate on the floor of the trunk), then in to the top of the water separator, then a line (rubber hose) exits the top of the water separator and comes down close to the front of the wheel arch, where the check valve is spliced in, and another short length of rubber hose goes from the check valve on to the blue plastic supply line that goes to the engine room. Jack and remove the right rear wheel to reveal all this stuff. The check valve can leak air into the line, and will be wet with fuel if it is leaky. Also, on old cars with salt exposure in the north, the steel crimp sleeve used to clamp the rubber hoses to the plastic lines, etc, will crumble away, and have to be replaced by tiny gear clamps. My experience with these is that any time the lines are disturbed around the separator, you should drop it and remake all connections in the area with new hose and gear clamps, (fortunately, stainless steel) > >Under the tank on the passenger side is what looks like a box with a >round thingy that can be turned. It looks like the fuel lines run in >this. What is under there? That's the water separator. The knob opens the drain valve permitting any trapped water to drain out. DSrain a little every year to be sure. Be carefull the knob does not crack off in your hand. it siezes up without periodical use. Have a large drain pan handy in case you break it off. The tank will empty (slowly) until it is completely empty. Sandy From mwsnow at cox.net Sat Sep 13 20:57:08 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers In-Reply-To: <1063488218.3f638adacb343@webmail.uvm.edu> References: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> <1063488218.3f638adacb343@webmail.uvm.edu> Message-ID: <3F63D904.5060006@cox.net> I believe that this is correct, but there were some intercooled 1.6TD engines sold in Canada. Mike Snow > I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with intercoolers, in > the US anyway. Is this true? > Ken From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Sat Sep 13 22:12:04 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers In-Reply-To: <1063488218.3f638adacb343@webmail.uvm.edu> Message-ID: Yeah, I think so. Intercoolers are a great help on larger engines especially, running up to 30psi boost. Things like my tractor, combine, and semi all have them (400, 260 and 275 hp respectively). Of more benefit are the air to air ones, but they also come in air to water (coolant) as well. Air to air can lose more heat, but gets plugged up- you can imagine the dust around a combine plugging up the outside pretty fast, that's a daily blow out with compressed air thing. Air to water doesn't get plugged, but there are limits as to how much heat can be removed by engine temperature coolant. Front of most power units these days have an air to air unit in front of the rad that is half plugged with dead bugs, as are most tdi ones I have looked at, other than the one on our car that is :-)... This winter project is to finally get the vw caddy on the road with 1.9td and intercooler, although that's what I said last fall as well... -J > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of Kenneth E. Oldrid > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 3:24 PM > To: dcande01@clarityconnect.com > Cc: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers > I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with > intercoolers, in > the US anyway. Is this true? > Ken > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sat Sep 13 23:28:27 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Clogging In-Reply-To: from "James Hansen" at Sep 13, 2003 09:12:04 PM Message-ID: <200309140228.WAA29135@swamps.roc.ny.us> Do the larger engines have inertial separators? The Cessna 208B with a PT6A114A turbine, has an inertial separator. Very effective at getting dust, stones, hail and bird parts from going into the 675 hp turbine. I've also seen inertial separators for intercooler air on turbo setups. Something like the inertial path passes through the cowling, and there in a secondary separated flow which goes to the intercooler. Always air-to-air on the ones I've seen. Val > > Yeah, I think so. > Intercoolers are a great help on larger engines especially, running up to > 30psi boost. Things like my tractor, combine, and semi all have them (400, > 260 and 275 hp respectively). Of more benefit are the air to air ones, but > they also come in air to water (coolant) as well. Air to air can lose more > heat, but gets plugged up- you can imagine the dust around a combine > plugging up the outside pretty fast, that's a daily blow out with compressed > air thing. Air to water doesn't get plugged, but there are limits as to how > much heat can be removed by engine temperature coolant. Front of most power > units these days have an air to air unit in front of the rad that is half > plugged with dead bugs, as are most tdi ones I have looked at, other than > the one on our car that is :-)... > This winter project is to finally get the vw caddy on the road with 1.9td > and intercooler, although that's what I said last fall as well... > -J > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > > Behalf Of Kenneth E. Oldrid > > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 3:24 PM > > To: dcande01@clarityconnect.com > > Cc: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers > > > I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with > > intercoolers, in > > the US anyway. Is this true? > > Ken From LBaird119 at aol.com Sun Sep 14 02:48:11 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Replacing the fuel filter/ bubbles in fuel lines Message-ID: <180.1f926c85.2c955b1b@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The usual failure mode seems to occur after attempting to drain it and consists of fuel leaking from it when the drain tap won't close afterwards. Seriously, it seems to be a redundancy, since fuel filters perform the same function. Due to the possibility of not getting it shut after draining it, I'd consider looking at it only if no other cause becomes apparent. The knob seperated from the shaft when I opened mine for the first time. I didn't twist it enough to break it so I halfway suspect some PO had done it and managed to stick it back on enough to stay. After ordering one from the dealer, I found that I can get them for much less! :P I forget what the capacity is but it seems like it's over a quart. Mine was nearly clear full of water! Much less odd glow plug light illuminations after draining it. :) Loren From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Sun Sep 14 01:26:48 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Clogging In-Reply-To: <200309140228.WAA29135@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: yeah they do, but with the large volume of dust, the really fine stuff eventually deposits on the fins to the extent of rendering them fairly ineffective... to the point of engine shutdown on the electronic controlled ones (1997 john deere cts combine with electronic controlled engine). Imagine when combining canola you are grinding up stems that are mostly filled with pith, roughly 20 plants per meter2 all with main stems that are half inch or so round and chest high. The stuff is electrostatically active, grinds up into a fine dust and coats the combine- horizontal surfaces have inch thick "drifts" of the stuff on really dry calm days. The manufacturers don't worry about the small stuff, they are too concerned with the large chaff from stems and such which clogs a rad in less than a minute or so when the centrifugal separator quits. Highway tractors have them sitting out in the bug catcher position... seems silly when a fan and a relocate would be much more effective in the long run. My tractor uses air to water, so it is a non-issue. For the caddy, i was thinking of using a modified subaru wrx type setup and build an inertial separator of sorts into the scoop. Keeps out bird parts and stones? impressive. I only worked on piston jobs when I wrenched on planes, spray planes mostly. Quit due to the spray exposure which was at least a hundred times more than I get in a year on the farm doing my own spraying with my spray coupe. (I'm careful...) Spray plane pilots use up a lot of props due to stone erosion landing on assorted "airstrips". Can't imagine what a turbine would think of stones. Yuck. -James > -----Original Message----- > From: Val Christian [mailto:val@swamps.roc.ny.us] > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 8:28 PM > To: James Hansen > Cc: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: Clogging > > > Do the larger engines have inertial separators? > > The Cessna 208B with a PT6A114A turbine, has an inertial separator. Very > effective at getting dust, stones, hail and bird parts from going into the > 675 hp turbine. > > I've also seen inertial separators for intercooler air on turbo setups. > Something like the inertial path passes through the cowling, and there > in a secondary separated flow which goes to the intercooler. Always > air-to-air on the ones I've seen. > > Val > > > > > > Yeah, I think so. > > Intercoolers are a great help on larger engines especially, > running up to > > 30psi boost. Things like my tractor, combine, and semi all > have them (400, > > 260 and 275 hp respectively). Of more benefit are the air to > air ones, but > > they also come in air to water (coolant) as well. Air to air > can lose more > > heat, but gets plugged up- you can imagine the dust around a combine > > plugging up the outside pretty fast, that's a daily blow out > with compressed > > air thing. Air to water doesn't get plugged, but there are > limits as to how > > much heat can be removed by engine temperature coolant. Front > of most power > > units these days have an air to air unit in front of the rad > that is half > > plugged with dead bugs, as are most tdi ones I have looked at, > other than > > the one on our car that is :-)... > > This winter project is to finally get the vw caddy on the road > with 1.9td > > and intercooler, although that's what I said last fall as well... > > -J > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > > > Behalf Of Kenneth E. Oldrid > > > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 3:24 PM > > > To: dcande01@clarityconnect.com > > > Cc: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers > > > > > I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with > > > intercoolers, in > > > the US anyway. Is this true? > > > Ken > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sun Sep 14 07:29:22 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! In-Reply-To: <002501c37a2f$5e63db80$1cefa68e@livingroom> from "Mike & Coreen Smith" at Sep 13, 2003 04:43:53 PM Message-ID: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> > Just for fun I did a voltage check and saw that when the 'plugs are heating, > the voltage in my battery drops to about 9.2volts. Seems kinda low..... It is low. My guess is that your battery is marginal. You'll find out this winter. (grin) 10 V would be about the lowest I'd expect, and then on a battery that's less than optimal. My 92 has a two year old $60 battery (group 41?) and reads 11.6 to 11.8 when glowing. I don't have the luxury of having had voltmeters on all the cars to have a broader base. Hence, I tend to usually see voltages when I have a problem I'm working. On glow plugs...On my second Rabbit, I went to pull glowplugs and the #1 one broke. The 12MM hex end broke from the body. I used EZouts and tried for days to extract it. Couldn't get it out, and didn't want to damage it so that it wouldn't seal. 275K miles later, I took the head off, and the valves and that broken glow plug were replaced. That car started just fine with three plugs. My experience is that three plugs work fine, except that in cold WX (less than 10F) there's a fair amount of white smoke, until the cold cylinder gets up to temp. At the same temps, it's nearly impossible to start with two plugs. The speed of your starter (and the charge of your battery) come into play. Best luck. Val n2epo From tyson.cragg at sympatico.ca Sun Sep 14 08:53:02 2003 From: tyson.cragg at sympatico.ca (Tyson Cragg) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers References: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> <1063488218.3f638adacb343@webmail.uvm.edu> <3F63D904.5060006@cox.net> Message-ID: <002201c37ab6$c092f980$b154fea9@yourviu5vcdub5> Not that I'm aware of. All we got in Canada was the standard MF 1.6 w/o IC, rated at 68 hp. The Europeans got the Golf GTD with the 80 hp IC 1.6. Tyson K. Cragg 1985 Jetta Diesel 1996 Passat TDI Wagon 2002 Cabrio GLX "DSL LVR" London, Ontario, CANADA From: "Michael Snow" To: Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 10:57 PM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers > I believe that this is correct, but there were some intercooled 1.6TD > engines sold in Canada. > > Mike Snow > > > I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with intercoolers, in > > the US anyway. Is this true? > > Ken > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Sun Sep 14 09:56:00 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> Val, Group. OK, I think I better look at getting a new battery then, and maybe installing better cables. I am sure it's working on at least 3 plugs now, but unsure how long the old 91 Golf "non turbo" glowplug will work for me in my 88 Jetta TD. Some say not very long. (LOL) Thanks Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Val Christian" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 7:29 AM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! > > Just for fun I did a voltage check and saw that when the 'plugs are heating, > > the voltage in my battery drops to about 9.2volts. Seems kinda low..... > > It is low. My guess is that your battery is marginal. You'll find out > this winter. (grin) > > 10 V would be about the lowest I'd expect, and then on a battery that's less > than optimal. My 92 has a two year old $60 battery (group 41?) and reads > 11.6 to 11.8 when glowing. I don't have the luxury of having had voltmeters > on all the cars to have a broader base. Hence, I tend to usually see > voltages when I have a problem I'm working. > > On glow plugs...On my second Rabbit, I went to pull glowplugs and the > #1 one broke. The 12MM hex end broke from the body. I used EZouts and > tried for days to extract it. Couldn't get it out, and didn't want > to damage it so that it wouldn't seal. 275K miles later, I took the > head off, and the valves and that broken glow plug were replaced. > > That car started just fine with three plugs. My experience is that > three plugs work fine, except that in cold WX (less than 10F) there's > a fair amount of white smoke, until the cold cylinder gets up to temp. > At the same temps, it's nearly impossible to start with two plugs. > The speed of your starter (and the charge of your battery) come into > play. > > Best luck. > > Val n2epo > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From mwsnow at cox.net Sun Sep 14 07:19:34 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers In-Reply-To: <002201c37ab6$c092f980$b154fea9@yourviu5vcdub5> References: <0470F8F0-E62B-11D7-B190-00039314CD94@clarityconnect.com> <1063488218.3f638adacb343@webmail.uvm.edu> <3F63D904.5060006@cox.net> <002201c37ab6$c092f980$b154fea9@yourviu5vcdub5> Message-ID: <3F646AE6.5070509@cox.net> I stand corrected. The illustration in the North American '91 Jetta parts listing shows the intercooler, but the parts are "not availble". Engine codes RA and SB were only in Euro Audi 80/90 and VW Passat, Golf/Jetta. Mike Snow Tyson Cragg wrote: > Not that I'm aware of. All we got in Canada was the standard MF 1.6 w/o IC, > rated at 68 hp. The Europeans got the Golf GTD with the 80 hp IC 1.6. > > Tyson K. Cragg > 1985 Jetta Diesel > 1996 Passat TDI Wagon > 2002 Cabrio GLX > "DSL LVR" > London, Ontario, CANADA > > From: "Michael Snow" > To: > Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2003 10:57 PM > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] intercoolers > > > >>I believe that this is correct, but there were some intercooled 1.6TD >>engines sold in Canada. >> >>Mike Snow >> >> >>>I believe the TDI's are the only VW diesels to come stock with > > intercoolers, in > >>>the US anyway. Is this true? >>>Ken >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>vwdiesel mailing list >>vwdiesel@vwfans.com >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From r.c.brown at ieee.org Sun Sep 14 08:03:43 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> Message-ID: <3F64753F.2E01F3EC@ieee.org> Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > > Val, Group. > > OK, I think I better look at getting a new battery then, and maybe > installing better cables. > I am sure it's working on at least 3 plugs now, but unsure how long the old > 91 Golf "non turbo" glowplug will work for me in my 88 Jetta TD. Some say > not very long. (LOL) Also consider that the starter will be running at the same time that the plugs are on, while cranking the engine over. -- Roger From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Sun Sep 14 12:37:24 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> <3F64753F.2E01F3EC@ieee.org> Message-ID: <000d01c37acd$b7454380$a6faa68e@livingroom> Hmmmm.........I don't think the starter runs at the same time the plugs are on. (*unless you want it to) I always wait until the yellow dash light goes out, then a couple seconds later I listen for the under-dash timer relay to disengage. Afterwhich there is no voltage being applied to the G-plugs. However, that being said, there HAS been current drawn from the battery immediately before engaging the starter and the battery is that much "weaker", so your point is correct if that's what you had intended to say Roger. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Brown" To: "Mike & Coreen Smith" Cc: "Val Christian" ; Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 11:03 AM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! > Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > > > > Val, Group. > > > > OK, I think I better look at getting a new battery then, and maybe > > installing better cables. > > I am sure it's working on at least 3 plugs now, but unsure how long the old > > 91 Golf "non turbo" glowplug will work for me in my 88 Jetta TD. Some say > > not very long. (LOL) > > Also consider that the starter will be running at the same time that the plugs are on, while cranking the engine over. > > -- > Roger > From r.c.brown at ieee.org Sun Sep 14 08:46:35 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> <3F64753F.2E01F3EC@ieee.org> <000d01c37acd$b7454380$a6faa68e@livingroom> Message-ID: <3F647F4B.B746CB9C@ieee.org> Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > > Hmmmm.........I don't think the starter runs at the same time the plugs are > on. (*unless you want it to) > I always wait until the yellow dash light goes out, then a couple seconds > later I listen for the under-dash timer relay to disengage. Afterwhich > there is no voltage being applied to the G-plugs. > However, that being said, there HAS been current drawn from the battery > immediately before engaging the starter and the battery is that much > "weaker", so your point is correct if that's what you had intended to say > Roger. The light on the dash has almost nothing to do with the state of the glow plugs. They remain on for many seconds (10-20) after the dash light goes out. Don't believe it, leave the key in the glow position after the LED goes out and wait a bit and you'll soon hear the relay click off and see your dome light brighten. Then, as soon as you hit the starter, the glow plug relay will click on again (no LED visible): http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/GlowPlugs.shtml -- Roger From r.c.brown at ieee.org Sun Sep 14 08:49:06 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> <3F64753F.2E01F3EC@ieee.org> <000d01c37acd$b7454380$a6faa68e@livingroom> Message-ID: <3F647FE2.3427473A@ieee.org> Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > > Hmmmm.........I don't think the starter runs at the same time the plugs are > on. (*unless you want it to) > I always wait until the yellow dash light goes out, then a couple seconds > later I listen for the under-dash timer relay to disengage. Afterwhich > there is no voltage being applied to the G-plugs. > However, that being said, there HAS been current drawn from the battery > immediately before engaging the starter and the battery is that much > "weaker", so your point is correct if that's what you had intended to say > Roger. Specifically see: http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/GlowPlug.shtml#TroubleShooting Pin 50 on the glow plug relay takes a signal from the starter contacts on the ignition switch and that is what turns it on while starting. At least this is present on the A1 diesels, may or may not be there on later models. -- Roger From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Sun Sep 14 13:17:05 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <200309141029.GAA31420@swamps.roc.ny.us> <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> <3F64753F.2E01F3EC@ieee.org> <000d01c37acd$b7454380$a6faa68e@livingroom> <3F647F4B.B746CB9C@ieee.org> Message-ID: <000901c37ad3$42800480$9b94b3cf@livingroom> OH OH !! So sorry Roger. I stand corrected. DOH! (blush!) -Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Brown" To: Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 11:46 AM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! > Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > > > > Hmmmm.........I don't think the starter runs at the same time the plugs are > > on. (*unless you want it to) > > I always wait until the yellow dash light goes out, then a couple seconds > > later I listen for the under-dash timer relay to disengage. Afterwhich > > there is no voltage being applied to the G-plugs. > > However, that being said, there HAS been current drawn from the battery > > immediately before engaging the starter and the battery is that much > > "weaker", so your point is correct if that's what you had intended to say > > Roger. > > The light on the dash has almost nothing to do with the state of the glow plugs. They remain on for many seconds (10-20) after > the dash light goes out. Don't believe it, leave the key in the glow position after the LED goes out and wait a bit and you'll > soon hear the relay click off and see your dome light brighten. Then, as soon as you hit the starter, the glow plug relay will > click on again (no LED visible): > http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/GlowPlugs.shtml > > -- > Roger > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sun Sep 14 11:27:43 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! In-Reply-To: <3F647FE2.3427473A@ieee.org> from "Roger Brown" at Sep 14, 2003 07:49:06 AM Message-ID: <200309141427.KAA32456@swamps.roc.ny.us> > Pin 50 on the glow plug relay takes a signal from the starter contacts on the ignition switch and that is what turns it on while > starting. At least this is present on the A1 diesels, may or may not be there on later models. > > -- > Roger Agreed. On A2 also. If not working, car starts with more difficulty, unless very warm. From twogreek at hotmail.com Sun Sep 14 12:24:53 2003 From: twogreek at hotmail.com (William A. Thompson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Downloading Raw Archive Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] hey ... how come no one mentions that IE won't download that "raw" archive and you have to use Netscape? From mwsnow at cox.net Sun Sep 14 13:36:57 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Downloading Raw Archive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F64C359.3060608@cox.net> Probably because that's not the case. I downloaded all 17 MB of it with IE just to test. Mike Snow > hey ... how come no one mentions that IE won't download that "raw" archive and you have to use Netscape? > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From dieseltdi at earthlink.net Sun Sep 14 15:57:38 2003 From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Diesel fuel filters cheap!!!!! Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] OK all, I came upon a small treasure trove today so I am offering my abundance here on these lists before I put these things on ebay. I have 27 of the early type screw on genuine Bosch diesel fuel filters and 1 of the two connector (early A2 style) diesel fuel filters. I offer them here at the whopping price of........$5 each plus shipping! Buy three or more and I will let you have them for $4 each! I want everybody to share in this abundance so if you are interested, drop me a email. I can accept Paypal payments or you can send me a money order if you like. Anyway, let me know. Hayden Visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi Proud owner of: 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI (Upsolute Tuning Box) 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane dual fuel system, 101K+ miles, and now running on B100) 2 - 1981 Rabbit Pickups (slowly being morphed into one truck with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine) Will burn biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system. And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle, to Vans, Rabbits, Karmen Ghias, Jettas, Passats, Dashers, Pickups and many others both air and water-cooled now gone but not forgotten. -- From dieseltdi at earthlink.net Sun Sep 14 21:39:05 2003 From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] filters Message-ID: <64ABA390-E71D-11D7-8D33-000A959B975C@earthlink.net> Just so you all know. As of this moment. I only have 4 filters left, all of the early type. Hayden Visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi Proud owner of: 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI (Upsolute Tuning Box) 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane dual fuel system, 101K+ miles, and now running on B100) 2 - 1981 Rabbit Pickups (slowly being morphed into one truck with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine) Will burn biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system. And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle, to Vans, Rabbits, Karmen Ghias, Jettas, Passats, Dashers, Pickups and many others both air and water-cooled now gone but not forgotten. From twogreek at hotmail.com Sun Sep 14 19:50:05 2003 From: twogreek at hotmail.com (William A. Thompson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Downloading Raw Archive Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Michael ... Are you sure you are trying the "download the full raw archive" on http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/vwdiesel/ ? After reading your reply I again attempted to D/L with IE and no go. After clicking the link, the address bar contains "mhtml:http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/vwdiesel.mbox/vwdiesel.mbox" and the page reports "The page cannot be displayed". This has been the same result for several months that I have tried. I was not successful in D/L it until I used Netscape. My PC configuration is not unusual ... IE is fully updated ... I have been running computers, networks and internet applications since they existed ... I have degrees in computer/network/internet/mainframe/electronic technology although I acknowledge that even in a degreed education holes in knowledge do still exist. . I have not had my attention drawn to "mhtml" as in the link so I have not pursued the details .... but my IE will not download it. There could be IE options effecting this that I haven't associated to the "mhtml" part of the address .... but it has to be associated to that. Thanks for your reply ... at least I know that someone reports being able to use IE to D/L it ... so I have some interesting research to do to find out why you can but I can not. "Michael Snow" wrote in message news:3F64C359.3060608@cox.net... > Probably because that's not the case. I downloaded all 17 MB of it with > IE just to test. > > Mike Snow > > > hey ... how come no one mentions that IE won't download that "raw" archive and you have to use Netscape? From h_hagar at prcn.org Sun Sep 14 20:22:23 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Filters ---- ( VW Bosch 1 457 434 106 ) Message-ID: <000e01c37b30$35de17a0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Does anyone know the micron rating if these filters ???. Consid= ering the crappy fuel we have to deal with a really good filter is paramoun= t=2E I am considering using a Stanadyne as a secondary ---just before = the pump. Stanadyne makes a nice glass water separator as well. 980 36 ?= Kralinator FS758 . I have 2 micron spin on Caterpillar elements = here but no holder., Who is our filter WIZARD ?. please speak up ---th= anks . Hagar PS: Driving that little 1984 Bunny Rabbit 1.6 turbo is so much fun I got 18= 53.4 Km mostly testing and tuning (joyriding) bloody skylarking he is. T= here are no roads out of here , but good roads in the area. -- From r.c.brown at ieee.org Sun Sep 14 20:23:00 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Downloading Raw Archive References: Message-ID: <3F652284.D36C40E4@ieee.org> "William A. Thompson" wrote: > Are you sure you are trying the "download the full raw archive" on > http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/vwdiesel/ ? After reading your reply I > again attempted to D/L with IE and no go. After clicking the link, the > address bar contains > "mhtml:http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/vwdiesel.mbox/vwdiesel.mbox" and > the page reports "The page cannot be displayed". This has been the same > result for several months that I have tried. I was not successful in D/L it > until I used Netscape. My PC configuration is not unusual ... IE is fully > updated ... I have been running computers, networks and internet > applications since they existed ... I have degrees in > computer/network/internet/mainframe/electronic technology although I > acknowledge that even in a degreed education holes in knowledge do still > exist. . I have not had my attention drawn to "mhtml" as in the link so I > have not pursued the details .... but my IE will not download it. There > could be IE options effecting this that I haven't associated to the "mhtml" > part of the address .... but it has to be associated to that. > Thanks for your reply ... at least I know that someone reports being able to > use IE to D/L it ... so I have some interesting research to do to find out > why you can but I can not. > > "Michael Snow" wrote in message > news:3F64C359.3060608@cox.net... > > Probably because that's not the case. I downloaded all 17 MB of it with > > IE just to test. > > > > Mike Snow > > > > > hey ... how come no one mentions that IE won't download that "raw" > archive and you have to use Netscape? Probably need to use a Right-click and SaveAs, seems to work for me. IE probably lacks or has a different MIME type definition for the mbox format. Netscape works with mbox format natively since the mail reader is built into the Nescape product, while IE is web only, and Outlook probably has no clue as to what mbox file are. In case you are wondering what the mbox file is, its a Unix-based mail box file that holds a concatenated list of mail messages, see below: http://www.qmail.org/qmail-manual-html/man5/mbox.html -- Roger From mwsnow at cox.net Sun Sep 14 20:49:31 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Downloading Raw Archive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F6528BB.4020103@cox.net> Using latest update of IE6 on Win2K SP4. I "right-click, save target as" and downloaded it straight to my desktop. Also did it with Download Accelerator on the same system. FWIW, Windows is *EVIL* and I only use it to run ETKA. It also downloads fine from Mozilla on RedHat 9. Mike Snow William A. Thompson wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Michael ... > Are you sure you are trying the "download the full raw archive" on > http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/vwdiesel/ ? After reading your reply I > again attempted to D/L with IE and no go. After clicking the link, the > address bar contains > "mhtml:http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/vwdiesel.mbox/vwdiesel.mbox" and > the page reports "The page cannot be displayed". This has been the same > result for several months that I have tried. I was not successful in D/L it > until I used Netscape. My PC configuration is not unusual ... IE is fully > updated ... I have been running computers, networks and internet > applications since they existed ... I have degrees in > computer/network/internet/mainframe/electronic technology although I > acknowledge that even in a degreed education holes in knowledge do still > exist. . I have not had my attention drawn to "mhtml" as in the link so I > have not pursued the details .... but my IE will not download it. There > could be IE options effecting this that I haven't associated to the "mhtml" > part of the address .... but it has to be associated to that. > Thanks for your reply ... at least I know that someone reports being able to > use IE to D/L it ... so I have some interesting research to do to find out > why you can but I can not. > > "Michael Snow" wrote in message > news:3F64C359.3060608@cox.net... > >>Probably because that's not the case. I downloaded all 17 MB of it with >>IE just to test. >> >>Mike Snow >> >> >>>hey ... how come no one mentions that IE won't download that "raw" > > archive and you have to use Netscape? > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 06:54:15 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! In-Reply-To: <000801c37ab7$2b56f9b0$69c9a4c6@livingroom> Message-ID: <20030915125415.58145.qmail@web80701.mail.yahoo.com> <<>> From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 07:24:54 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:00 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! In-Reply-To: <01af01c37a44$38dbce80$6600a8c0@lee> Message-ID: <20030915132454.72120.qmail@web80704.mail.yahoo.com> I have this down to a science. SECURLY Duct tape an 8 MM combination wrench to a long thin screwdriver.(box end down). Use this to remove the bus bar nuts. Right at the point the nut is very loose, take a coat hanger wire w/ a hook bent into its end and place against the glow plug stud. Take another long thin screwdriver and spin the nut off the plug and let it fall onto the coathanger wire to retreive. To put the nut on, slide it down the coathanger wire and onto the stud and start it by spinning it on w/ the screwdriver. --Nate --- Lee Hillsgrove wrote: > > > Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't > able to unhook the > busbar > > on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them > individually, so did them in > > parallel. My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4" > thick. How do you guys ever > > get that busbar off behind the injector pump > anyway? > > Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini > for room back there. > > Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs > now---hopefully 4. > > > > > > Here's a reprint of a post I made from archived > material a while ago, > might be a help to give you some ideas about access > to the glow plugs. Some > of it might not be exactly what you asked for, but > it's all good info: > > > > " ">Any tips for getting to the glow plugs behind > the pump? I was thinking > >of getting a long wrench or welding a piece of > metal to a wrench so I > >can get to it. > > > >But after I get the off, how do I get it back on, > my hand will barely > >fit to get to the two middle ones. > > > >What have you guys done. > > I used an 8mm wrench from Sears, one of the new > types that is supposed to > act like a ratchet on the open end. Can't remember > the name, maybe Quick > Wrench? They are longer than a standard wrench which > allows you to reach > those 2 nuts behind the injector pump. I didn't use > the special open end, > just the box end. Welding an extension to a standard > length wrench would > accomplish the same thing. > It will save time to pull the injector lines. No > question. > I have used the bent piece of wire trick to start > the nuts before with > pretty good success. > The post-'85 pumps, with the idle speed increasing > lever on the back of the > pump, offer significantly more challenge. The lever > is right in the way. > > Lee > > > All of them can be removed and replaced without > removing injectors or > lines, it's just extremely tedious as you have to > turn the terminal nut, > then the plug, about 1/16 of a revolution per wrench > application. > > It helps immensely to: > > 1. Get the special long box end wrenches and > 2. Fasten a string to the wrench somehow to retrieve > it when you drop it > (you will) > 3. Piece of bent coathanger wire to retrieve nuts > when you drop them. > > Approach the 2 behind the injection pump with a > deliberate patient "I'm > going to do this if it kills me" attitude. > > Place a thick piece of carpet over the edge of the > fender to ease the pain > to the belly from leaning on it so long. > -- > Sandy Cameron > > > the easiest way is to grab a 17mm, open end wrench > and pull the > injector lines off. Then an 8mm wrench or socket > will get #'s 3 and > 4 nuts off. # 2 seems like, will also come off with > a regular, combination > wrench. # 1 is more challenging. A deep offset > boxend wrench is great > for it. Now the buss bar is free. Now start in > with 12 mm tools. Removing > 2, 3 and 4 are fairly easy and # 1 a challenge. > Again, a 12mm deep offset > box makes it very doable albeit a little slow going, > due to the restricted > movement. > > Reassembly: getting the glow plugs into the > holes isn't too bad > if you have skinny fingers. Just grab by the small > threads, by two > fingers, and get it in the hole, it will thread from > there. Getting the > nuts on can be a challenge unless you use a long, > small screwdriver > or wire. Place the nut on the wire or screwdriver > shaft and hold it at > the top. Place the bottom end against the threads, > hol it ther and let > the nut go. You can then get a skinny finger in > ther to spin it until it > catches a thread, or use another screwdriver to spin > it. Now tighten > the nuts and you're done. Don't forget to put the > red/white stripe wire > back on the # 4 glow plug. Some anti seize on the > plug to head threads > wouldn't hurt either. > Loren > > > Regarding the recent discussion on replacing glow > plugs etc.:- > > The method I use to stop the agro when re-attching > the bus bar/nuts to the > glow plugs after they are re-installed in the head, > is to remove the first > 1 to 2 threads from the plug down to the root of the > threads so that the > nut will stay on the stud when you put it there with > a wire or somesuch. > Then it can be turned without all the problems of it > falling off the stud > all the time. > > The only precaution needed is to make sure the > thread start is clear of > burrs and that the nut will easily engage on the > threads when turned, > before installing the glow plugs. > > Bill Osborne > > Removing the glow plug bus bar nuts are a real pain. > Here's an easy trick > for the two behind the pump: After you get them > loose w/ a wrench (a long > handled one helps). take a piece of coat hanger wire > about 14 inches long > and bend a small "V" at one end. Extend the right > side of the V about 5 mm > out, horizontally. Take the wire and place its end > of its "V" you made > against the end of the glow plug stud. Take a thin > long screwdriver and > unscrew the nut w/ it. The nut will fall of the > stud and slide down into > the V for easy retrieval. To install take a > straight coathanger wire and > place one end firmly against the glow plug stud. > Slide the nut over the > other end. Fiddle around w/ the screwdriver to get > the nut started on the > stud, while holding the coathanger wire's end > against the stud. This method > works great for other inaccessible areas, like some > of the valve cover nuts. > Also, a LONG handle 12 mm wrench is almost a must to > reach the glowplugs. > > --Nate > > > You'll only need a few tools and a lot of eggs > because you'll need > to beat up something when it's all over. Here's the > brief version. Remove > all impressionable children from the vicinity. Open > the hood and get some > good lighting. Have some injector return line on > hand, either to replace it > all or pieces. Remove the injector lines from both > the pump and injectors > as a unit and assure all of the lines are fully > disconnected before > extraction. Do not remove the line clamps. You may > have to remove the stop > solenoid wire too. You may want to buy a shorty 17 > mm open end to ease the > R & R of the # line (or make one.) Remove the > glow plug supply line > === message truncated === __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From h_hagar at prcn.org Mon Sep 15 07:44:32 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) Message-ID: <000e01c37b8f$8ac7de40$8fccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I am a redneck , hillbilly and dummy. Please explain WHY H.Hagar winds up on top when author is selected. Thank you . Hagar. -- From markonee1 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 15 18:03:50 2003 From: markonee1 at hotmail.com (Mark Shepherd) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] From a valley billy to a hill billy Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] At a guess you come first alphabetically... You dont belive me? Here goes.... It runs alphabetically...people with same surname would be sorted by 1st name. Because you have a dot in your name.. the computer assumes that the 'h space dot' is part of the hagar... it is thinking your surname is blank which comes before the A to Z of surnames.... Presumably Zorro would come after you but before every one else...It being Zorro 'blank' This all just a guess Try calling yourself Hagar Hagar and see if you slip down the list....(Isnt that a type of jelly(Jello for USA) :oD Mark (The Miser)UK ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Buy and sell almost anything online with Ebay Auctions on MSN.[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMOENUK/2755??PS= From h_hagar at prcn.org Mon Sep 15 11:10:12 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glow plug confusion --- ( Bentley is wrong say I ) Message-ID: <000e01c37bac$adad1a20$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Who ??? mentioned Bentley a short while ago. Your statement made me read my bentley for the first time. Bentley Stock No. VRD4. I had the glow-plug system spooked out long before I got the Bentley . Bear in mind that it is seldom a person with hands on experience that writes the books. Then some books go through a Translator , the result is errors. Proof reading by the design engineer is sometimes skipped ----bad idea that is. The reason for the two types of Bosch plugs , has to do with the jacket temperature. The alloy "Monel" or Inconel or what not, has a critical maximum. That's why the old style " SLOW" plugs white metal top ones. burned out so often. They did not have a resistor built in to lower the temp if powered continuously. The new style "QUICK" or "FAST" plug has a internal ballast resistor and will stand power on for up to 3 minutes , by design. There is little difference in the time to reach glow .If you hook up two plugs in parallel , one of each, you will se what I mean. The main difference between the two systems , has to do with the "controller" The old system turned off the minute engine fires, the new does not. Afterglow it is called , was used to reduce white fog from cold turbo Engines. But it works for ALL diesels.? More on this some other time. Hagar. -- From laplante at mac.com Mon Sep 15 13:32:54 2003 From: laplante at mac.com (Mark Laplante) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) Message-ID: <194105.1063647174699.JavaMail.laplante@mac.com> I have not tried it but I have a hunch that it is because your name is shown as HHagar ("H .Hagar") and the mail program thinks that your last name is ".Hagar" and "." comes before "A". If I'm right, would someone be so kind as to give me hints on getting to the blower motor on my '82 Rabbit with A/C? Apparently the airbox in the rain tray is broken as the PO has a mess of white silicone sealing it shut. Reaching in the hole usually covered by a screen, I can get my hand inside of the fan wheel and it is jammed up pretty good. I can get it to turn only about an inch. I see no instructions in Bentley, and the Haynes tries to lump all models together. Is it necessary to discharge the A/C to get at the motor? Anyone have a spare motor and/or airbox? Thanks, Mark On Monday, September 15, 2003, at 11:00AM, wrote: >From: "H .Hagar" >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >I am a redneck , hillbilly and dummy. Please explain WHY H.Hagar winds up on top when author is selected. Thank you . Hagar. >-- > From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 12:55:51 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) In-Reply-To: <194105.1063647174699.JavaMail.laplante@mac.com> Message-ID: <20030915185551.53444.qmail@web80706.mail.yahoo.com> Hmmmmmmm.......Check out germanimports.com for a new (reasonablly priced) blower motor. Is the leakage due to the plastic tray that is supposed to sit below the slots near the windshield being broken or missing? I wonder if the A-2 removal procedure is different than the A-1. I've replaced the one in my A-2 Jetta w/ A/C. The blower motor is removed from inside the vehicle by removing the glove box then removing the blower motor screws and teasing it out of the air box. The Bentley manual states the dashboard has to be removed for clearance, I think. I just remove the bolt holding the dashboard secure on the RIGHT side (must open the RF door to access) and pulling UP on the dashboard enough to get the fan motor to clear the dash. It does feel as if you'll rip the dash out--its a TIGHT fit. Be VERY careful, its easy to break the plastic fan blade wheel! --Nate --- Mark Laplante wrote: > I have not tried it but I have a hunch that it is > because your name is shown as HHagar ("H > .Hagar") and the mail program thinks that your last > name is ".Hagar" and "." comes before "A". > > If I'm right, would someone be so kind as to give me > hints on getting to the blower motor on my '82 > Rabbit with A/C? Apparently the airbox in the rain > tray is broken as the PO has a mess of white > silicone sealing it shut. Reaching in the hole > usually covered by a screen, I can get my hand > inside of the fan wheel and it is jammed up pretty > good. I can get it to turn only about an inch. I see > no instructions in Bentley, and the Haynes tries to > lump all models together. Is it necessary to > discharge the A/C to get at the motor? Anyone have a > spare motor and/or airbox? > > Thanks, > > Mark > > > On Monday, September 15, 2003, at 11:00AM, > wrote: > > >From: "H .Hagar" > > >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > >I am a redneck , hillbilly and dummy. Please > explain WHY H.Hagar winds up on top when author is > selected. Thank you . Hagar. > >-- > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 13:00:40 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glow plug confusion --- ( Bentley is wrong say I ) In-Reply-To: <000e01c37bac$adad1a20$1da8fea9@prcn.org> Message-ID: <20030915190040.32225.qmail@web80703.mail.yahoo.com> <<>> Why would a TD smoke more on start-up than a NA diesel VW engine? No boost at start-up. The ONLY thing I could equate it to is the higher injection pressure the nozzles are set at, or the more advanmced timing, but advancing the timing REDUCES white smoking. Higher injection pressure would tend to REDUCE smoking I think too. I do believe the prechambers are nearly identical. Hmmmmm.....This has never been explained, I believe. --Nate __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From h_hagar at prcn.org Mon Sep 15 14:05:34 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glowplugs ---- ( Good news for Old Volks owners.) Message-ID: <001401c37bc5$0c73df40$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Winter is on its way , so I feel compelled to write this now. Stealer-= ships and service-people will tell you to throw out the old (still OK) plug= s , and buy all coppertop (brass) and a new relay (expense) ----- I say bal= derdash. The new plugs will work in all systems. The old ones will not. = So you see no need for new relay. In the old system the new plugs will pr= obably outlast the car. For the beginners : Use a test-lamp connected t= o the first plug (#4) and start engine ,if it goes out immediately ---it i= s system 1. (old) if it stays on for some time it is system 2. (new). = The original reason for afterglow --was pollution required. But it comes = with a side benefit for engines with a low compression cylinder. It helps g= etting it going . On the old systems here I put on a manual afterglow = for that reason.Works like a charm. But be careful not to overdo the old pl= ugs. 10 sec cycles would be reasonable.Do the test on a COLD engine. = Hagar. PS: I was informed that the old plugs are no longer available --stands to r= eason if you understand above. -- From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Mon Sep 15 18:23:07 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <20030915132454.72120.qmail@web80704.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001b01c37bc7$2dab8670$d7efa68e@livingroom> LOL ! Before I read any of this I used a small 8mm wrench and the first thing I did was tie it to a secure place with 30LB test fishing line. I thought about taping it to a screwdriver, but never had enough patients to complete the task as the mosquitos were eating me alive ! (they're VERY bad where I live) Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nate Wall" To: "Lee Hillsgrove" ; Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 10:24 AM Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! > I have this down to a science. SECURLY Duct tape an 8 > MM combination wrench to a long thin screwdriver.(box > end down). Use this to remove the bus bar nuts. Right > at the point the nut is very loose, take a coat hanger > wire w/ a hook bent into its end and place against the > glow plug stud. Take another long thin screwdriver and > spin the nut off the plug and let it fall onto the > coathanger wire to retreive. To put the nut on, slide > it down the coathanger wire and onto the stud and > start it by spinning it on w/ the screwdriver. > > --Nate > --- Lee Hillsgrove wrote: > > > > > Well, I replaced 1 glowplug this morning. I wasn't > > able to unhook the > > busbar > > > on the 2 leftmost glowplugs to test them > > individually, so did them in > > > parallel. My fingers aren't 8" long and 1/4" > > thick. How do you guys ever > > > get that busbar off behind the injector pump > > anyway? > > > Sheesh! It's worse than working on my Austin Mini > > for room back there. > > > Anyways, I am firing AT LEAST 3 glowplgs > > now---hopefully 4. > > > > > > > > > > > Here's a reprint of a post I made from archived > > material a while ago, > > might be a help to give you some ideas about access > > to the glow plugs. Some > > of it might not be exactly what you asked for, but > > it's all good info: > > > > > > > > " ">Any tips for getting to the glow plugs behind > > the pump? I was thinking > > >of getting a long wrench or welding a piece of > > metal to a wrench so I > > >can get to it. > > > > > >But after I get the off, how do I get it back on, > > my hand will barely > > >fit to get to the two middle ones. > > > > > >What have you guys done. > > > > I used an 8mm wrench from Sears, one of the new > > types that is supposed to > > act like a ratchet on the open end. Can't remember > > the name, maybe Quick > > Wrench? They are longer than a standard wrench which > > allows you to reach > > those 2 nuts behind the injector pump. I didn't use > > the special open end, > > just the box end. Welding an extension to a standard > > length wrench would > > accomplish the same thing. > > It will save time to pull the injector lines. No > > question. > > I have used the bent piece of wire trick to start > > the nuts before with > > pretty good success. > > The post-'85 pumps, with the idle speed increasing > > lever on the back of the > > pump, offer significantly more challenge. The lever > > is right in the way. > > > > Lee > > > > > > All of them can be removed and replaced without > > removing injectors or > > lines, it's just extremely tedious as you have to > > turn the terminal nut, > > then the plug, about 1/16 of a revolution per wrench > > application. > > > > It helps immensely to: > > > > 1. Get the special long box end wrenches and > > 2. Fasten a string to the wrench somehow to retrieve > > it when you drop it > > (you will) > > 3. Piece of bent coathanger wire to retrieve nuts > > when you drop them. > > > > Approach the 2 behind the injection pump with a > > deliberate patient "I'm > > going to do this if it kills me" attitude. > > > > Place a thick piece of carpet over the edge of the > > fender to ease the pain > > to the belly from leaning on it so long. > > -- > > Sandy Cameron > > > > > > the easiest way is to grab a 17mm, open end wrench > > and pull the > > injector lines off. Then an 8mm wrench or socket > > will get #'s 3 and > > 4 nuts off. # 2 seems like, will also come off with > > a regular, combination > > wrench. # 1 is more challenging. A deep offset > > boxend wrench is great > > for it. Now the buss bar is free. Now start in > > with 12 mm tools. Removing > > 2, 3 and 4 are fairly easy and # 1 a challenge. > > Again, a 12mm deep offset > > box makes it very doable albeit a little slow going, > > due to the restricted > > movement. > > > > Reassembly: getting the glow plugs into the > > holes isn't too bad > > if you have skinny fingers. Just grab by the small > > threads, by two > > fingers, and get it in the hole, it will thread from > > there. Getting the > > nuts on can be a challenge unless you use a long, > > small screwdriver > > or wire. Place the nut on the wire or screwdriver > > shaft and hold it at > > the top. Place the bottom end against the threads, > > hol it ther and let > > the nut go. You can then get a skinny finger in > > ther to spin it until it > > catches a thread, or use another screwdriver to spin > > it. Now tighten > > the nuts and you're done. Don't forget to put the > > red/white stripe wire > > back on the # 4 glow plug. Some anti seize on the > > plug to head threads > > wouldn't hurt either. > > Loren > > > > > > Regarding the recent discussion on replacing glow > > plugs etc.:- > > > > The method I use to stop the agro when re-attching > > the bus bar/nuts to the > > glow plugs after they are re-installed in the head, > > is to remove the first > > 1 to 2 threads from the plug down to the root of the > > threads so that the > > nut will stay on the stud when you put it there with > > a wire or somesuch. > > Then it can be turned without all the problems of it > > falling off the stud > > all the time. > > > > The only precaution needed is to make sure the > > thread start is clear of > > burrs and that the nut will easily engage on the > > threads when turned, > > before installing the glow plugs. > > > > Bill Osborne > > > > Removing the glow plug bus bar nuts are a real pain. > > Here's an easy trick > > for the two behind the pump: After you get them > > loose w/ a wrench (a long > > handled one helps). take a piece of coat hanger wire > > about 14 inches long > > and bend a small "V" at one end. Extend the right > > side of the V about 5 mm > > out, horizontally. Take the wire and place its end > > of its "V" you made > > against the end of the glow plug stud. Take a thin > > long screwdriver and > > unscrew the nut w/ it. The nut will fall of the > > stud and slide down into > > the V for easy retrieval. To install take a > > straight coathanger wire and > > place one end firmly against the glow plug stud. > > Slide the nut over the > > other end. Fiddle around w/ the screwdriver to get > > the nut started on the > > stud, while holding the coathanger wire's end > > against the stud. This method > > works great for other inaccessible areas, like some > > of the valve cover nuts. > > Also, a LONG handle 12 mm wrench is almost a must to > > reach the glowplugs. > > > > --Nate > > > > > > You'll only need a few tools and a lot of eggs > > because you'll need > > to beat up something when it's all over. Here's the > > brief version. Remove > > all impressionable children from the vicinity. Open > > the hood and get some > > good lighting. Have some injector return line on > > hand, either to replace it > > all or pieces. Remove the injector lines from both > > the pump and injectors > > as a unit and assure all of the lines are fully > > disconnected before > > extraction. Do not remove the line clamps. You may > > have to remove the stop > > solenoid wire too. You may want to buy a shorty 17 > > mm open end to ease the > > R & R of the # line (or make one.) Remove the > > glow plug supply line > > > === message truncated === > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From hseaver at cybershamanix.com Mon Sep 15 16:51:03 2003 From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glow plug confusion --- ( Bentley is wrong say I ) In-Reply-To: <20030915190040.32225.qmail@web80703.mail.yahoo.com> References: <000e01c37bac$adad1a20$1da8fea9@prcn.org> <20030915190040.32225.qmail@web80703.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20030915205103.GB9858@cybershamanix.com> On Mon, Sep 15, 2003 at 12:00:40PM -0700, Nate Wall wrote: > << fog from cold turbo Engines. But it works for ALL > diesels.? More on this some other time. >>> > > Why would a TD smoke more on start-up than a NA diesel > VW engine? No boost at start-up. The ONLY thing I > could equate it to is the higher injection pressure > the nozzles are set at, or the more advanmced timing, > but advancing the timing REDUCES white smoking. Higher > injection pressure would tend to REDUCE smoking I > think too. I do believe the prechambers are nearly > identical. Hmmmmm.....This has never been explained, I > believe. > I thought the TD was lower compression than the NA? At least that's the way it is with most engines, not sure about VW's. -- Harmon Seaver CyberShamanix http://www.cybershamanix.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 15:07:42 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glow plug confusion --- ( Bentley is wrong say I ) In-Reply-To: <20030915205103.GB9858@cybershamanix.com> Message-ID: <20030915210742.87451.qmail@web80708.mail.yahoo.com> The TD VW and the NA VW IDI diesels have the SAME CR, 23.5:1. --NAte --- Harmon Seaver wrote: > On Mon, Sep 15, 2003 at 12:00:40PM -0700, Nate Wall > wrote: > > << white > > fog from cold turbo Engines. But it works for ALL > > diesels.? More on this some other time. >>> > > > > Why would a TD smoke more on start-up than a NA > diesel > > VW engine? No boost at start-up. The ONLY thing I > > could equate it to is the higher injection > pressure > > the nozzles are set at, or the more advanmced > timing, > > but advancing the timing REDUCES white smoking. > Higher > > injection pressure would tend to REDUCE smoking I > > think too. I do believe the prechambers are nearly > > identical. Hmmmmm.....This has never been > explained, I > > believe. > > > I thought the TD was lower compression than the > NA? At least that's the way > it is with most engines, not sure about VW's. > > > -- > Harmon Seaver > CyberShamanix > http://www.cybershamanix.com > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From r.c.brown at ieee.org Mon Sep 15 15:21:09 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glow plug confusion --- ( Bentley is wrong say I ) References: <000e01c37bac$adad1a20$1da8fea9@prcn.org> <20030915190040.32225.qmail@web80703.mail.yahoo.com> <20030915205103.GB9858@cybershamanix.com> Message-ID: <3F662D45.FF924BFF@ieee.org> Harmon Seaver wrote: > > On Mon, Sep 15, 2003 at 12:00:40PM -0700, Nate Wall wrote: > > << > fog from cold turbo Engines. But it works for ALL > > diesels.? More on this some other time. >>> > > > > Why would a TD smoke more on start-up than a NA diesel > > VW engine? No boost at start-up. The ONLY thing I > > could equate it to is the higher injection pressure > > the nozzles are set at, or the more advanmced timing, > > but advancing the timing REDUCES white smoking. Higher > > injection pressure would tend to REDUCE smoking I > > think too. I do believe the prechambers are nearly > > identical. Hmmmmm.....This has never been explained, I > > believe. > > > I thought the TD was lower compression than the NA? At least that's the way > it is with most engines, not sure about VW's. Same as far as I can tell: http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/index.shtml#EngineSpecs Moving down a bit from the 1.5->1.6->1.9 engines, the TDI is lower than the IDI engines, though. -- Roger From dieseltdi at earthlink.net Mon Sep 15 21:08:50 2003 From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] No more filters!!!!! Message-ID: <54EE8852-E7E2-11D7-A18A-000A959B975C@earthlink.net> sorry guys but they went really fast! Huh, maybe I charged too little? ;^) Hayden Visit my website at www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi Proud owner of: 2002 Jetta Wagon GLS TDI (Upsolute Tuning Box) 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane dual fuel system, 101K+ miles, and now running on B100) 2 - 1981 Rabbit Pickups (slowly being morphed into one truck with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine) Will burn biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system. And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle, to Vans, Rabbits, Karmen Ghias, Jettas, Passats, Dashers, Pickups and many others both air and water-cooled now gone but not forgotten. From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 16 03:01:32 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! Message-ID: <57.220f2c3c.2c98013c@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 9/15/2003 2:58:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time, ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca writes: > LOL ! > Before I read any of this I used a small 8mm wrench and the first thing I > did was tie it to a secure place with 30LB test fishing line. > I thought about taping it to a screwdriver, but never had enough patients to > complete the task as the mosquitos were eating me alive ! (they're VERY bad > where I live) > > Mike > First, simplest thing is to pull the injector lines! I've done it with them in and started to a couple times (I have long, skinny fingers.) I usually pull them about the third time I get scraped or poked good by a line, injector or the pump! Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 16 03:11:07 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) Message-ID: <139.2509e344.2c98037b@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] If I'm right, would someone be so kind as to give me hints on getting to the blower motor on my '82 Rabbit with A/C? Apparently the airbox in the rain tray is broken as the PO has a mess of white silicone sealing it shut. Reaching in the hole usually covered by a screen, I can get my hand inside of the fan wheel and it is jammed up pretty good. I can get it to turn only about an inch. I see no instructions in Bentley, and the Haynes tries to lump all models together. Is it necessary to discharge the A/C to get at the motor? Anyone have a spare motor and/or airbox? As I recall it comes out the top of the air box. I don't remember if it's possible to do it with the airbox in place or not. The only one I did, I had out to clean it thouroughly. Be careful if you pull the fan off though. I nearly messed that one up and the fan in my Jetta has a wobble sound on low, ever since I pulled the fan to lube the front motor bushing. It turned better but now it's annoying. :P Loren From r.c.brown at ieee.org Tue Sep 16 00:24:10 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Voltage drop when glowplugs working ! References: <57.220f2c3c.2c98013c@aol.com> Message-ID: <3F66AC8A.5149351C@ieee.org> LBaird119@aol.com wrote: > First, simplest thing is to pull the injector lines! I've done it with > them in > and started to a couple times (I have long, skinny fingers.) I usually > pull them about the third time I get scraped or poked good by a line, > injector or the pump! Yes, I do that on mine as well. I also have a long handled wrench with a fairly low offset box end, works great to reach the nuts. Sometimes I find a piece of duct tape over the end of the box wrench helps to hold the nut when I remove it. A telescoping handled magnet is handy, too, since you will drop a nut from time to time. Next time I have my plugs out, I'll be replacing the bus bar with a set of individual wires to make testing and replacing easier, since you won't need to remove the nut, just loosen it and spin the plug out, pull it up by the wire. -- Roger From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 16 03:24:11 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glow plug confusion --- ( Bentley is wrong say I ) Message-ID: <25.3e25d644.2c98068b@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Bear in mind that it is seldom a person with hands on experience that writes the books. Then some books go through a Translator , the result is errors. Proof reading by the design engineer is sometimes skipped ----bad idea that is. The strange thing is the Bentley is a "Reprint" of the factory repair manual that is standard issue in the dealer service dipartment. ;-) The strange part is that it's not a direct reprint! There are parts that are omitted, changed, etc. Nothing obvious unless you're looking for something specific that's not there! I know one revision of the service manual has a page on missing glow plug tips being from a bad injector. It's never appeared in a Bentley, that I've found. Typo's that aren't in the service manual, etc. It almost appears it's more of a plagiarism than a photocopy. ;-) If anybody runs across an actual factory service manual... :) Loren From r3mismith at health.nb.ca Tue Sep 16 10:28:32 2003 From: r3mismith at health.nb.ca (Michael Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta Turbo Diesel mini Message-ID: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7A9@DECH_C> re: Jetta Turbo Diesel > Hi All ! > > Sending this from my work account, so if you reply, please hit "reply all" > or include ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca in your reply, so I'll see it at home too! > I'm too cheap to buy a Bentley manual (at least until I decide I'm going > to keep the car or not) so I need your folks help. > > My tach finally quit after being intermittent since I bought the car in > March. Sometimes it would go months w/o any problems and other times it > would "act up" for the first 15-20 minutes of my daily commute for 1-2 > weeks, then work 100% for many weeks afterwards. Problem is, I don't know > what to look for. Obviously, there's no coil to check wires on. I > really don't "need" a tach, but it sure is nice to have. > > What circuit should I be looking at, or is it a mechanical tach running to > some gear off the crank or whatever?? > > 1988 Jetta GL, 1.6L Turbo Diesel Canadian Car. > > Thanks much folks ! > > Maybe I'll ask Santa for a "Bentley" (the manual, not the car, lol) if > it's still on the road @ Xmas time. > > Mike Smith, CET > Clinical Engineering Dept. > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > Phone (506) 452-5091 > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > From scameron at compmore.net Tue Sep 16 09:48:28 2003 From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20030916124828.00674a98@mail.compmore.net> At 02:11 AM 9/16/03 EDT, you wrote: > > As I recall it comes out the top of the air box. I don't remember if it's >possible to do it with the airbox in place or not. The only one I did, I >had out to clean it thouroughly. Be careful if you pull the fan off though. > >I nearly messed that one up and the fan in my Jetta has a wobble sound >on low, ever since I pulled the fan to lube the front motor bushing. It >turned better but now it's annoying. :P > Loren >___________________ I drilled a hole in the plastic nosecone so I could get the wd40 straw in to the bearing, then oiled it using a plastic tube on the 3in1 can Sandy From natewall1 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 16 07:13:21 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20030916124828.00674a98@mail.compmore.net> Message-ID: <20030916131321.838.qmail@web80704.mail.yahoo.com> I cracked the fan cage attempting to remove the fan blade (cage) to re oil the bearings in the fan motor. I figured I'd replace the fan blade after that. VW sells the fan blade alright, but it only comes attached to the fan for about $300! I lived w/ a wobbly fan for a couple years then bought an aftermarket one for about $85 new. --Nate --- Sandy Cameron wrote: > At 02:11 AM 9/16/03 EDT, you wrote: > > > > > As I recall it comes out the top of the air box. > I don't remember if it's > >possible to do it with the airbox in place or not. > The only one I did, I > >had out to clean it thouroughly. Be careful if you > pull the fan off though. > > > >I nearly messed that one up and the fan in my Jetta > has a wobble sound > >on low, ever since I pulled the fan to lube the > front motor bushing. It > >turned better but now it's annoying. :P > > Loren > >___________________ > > I drilled a hole in the plastic nosecone so I could > get the wd40 straw in to > the bearing, then oiled it using a plastic tube on > the 3in1 can > > Sandy > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 16 07:20:56 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta Turbo Diesel mini In-Reply-To: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7A9@DECH_C> Message-ID: <20030916132056.98933.qmail@web80702.mail.yahoo.com> A good bet is a break near the female connector in the "W" wire. A real easy fix. Its the single thin wire that plugs into the back of the alternator and there is a "W" stamped on the alternator case next to it. Its the tach RPM signal wire. (I think its red w/ a white stripe) The diesel vibration over the years can cause the wire to break, sometimes internally, so you can't see it. In my case I had enough wire left to cut the break out and resolder the same connector in place. Next bet would be a loose connector connecting the instrument cluster (wiggle the connector(s) with the engine running while watching the tach) or a break in the thin flimsy circuit board in the instrument cluster (pull the cluster to check. Finally, I'd swap out the tach if it still does not work. --Nate. --- Michael Smith wrote: > > re: Jetta Turbo Diesel > > > Hi All ! > > > > Sending this from my work account, so if you > reply, please hit "reply all" > > or include ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca in your reply, so > I'll see it at home too! > > I'm too cheap to buy a Bentley manual (at least > until I decide I'm going > > to keep the car or not) so I need your folks help. > > > > My tach finally quit after being intermittent > since I bought the car in > > March. Sometimes it would go months w/o any > problems and other times it > > would "act up" for the first 15-20 minutes of my > daily commute for 1-2 > > weeks, then work 100% for many weeks afterwards. > Problem is, I don't know > > what to look for. Obviously, there's no coil to > check wires on. I > > really don't "need" a tach, but it sure is nice to > have. > > > > What circuit should I be looking at, or is it a > mechanical tach running to > > some gear off the crank or whatever?? > > > > 1988 Jetta GL, 1.6L Turbo Diesel Canadian Car. > > > > Thanks much folks ! > > > > Maybe I'll ask Santa for a "Bentley" (the manual, > not the car, lol) if > > it's still on the road @ Xmas time. > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 16 11:49:05 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta Turbo Diesel mini Message-ID: <19d.1a512dcd.2c987ce1@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 9/16/2003 6:45:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, natewall1@yahoo.com writes: > (I think its red w/ a > white stripe) The diesel vibration over the years can > cause the wire to break, sometimes internally, so you > can't see it. In my case I had enough wire left to cut > the break out and resolder the same connector in > place. Mine's a blue wire. The red/white is the main power wire but it's big and held on with a nut. I had the same problems only it went from intermittent to non-working in a matter of a few days. Loren From r3mismith at health.nb.ca Tue Sep 16 13:36:12 2003 From: r3mismith at health.nb.ca (Michael Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] alternator/tach wire colors etc. Message-ID: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7AD@DECH_C> Hi guys, Just sent this to Nate, but decided to CC you all on it to. I'm stumped ! [>] > Busy on my lunch hour but had another quick peek. > THere are 2 wires coming from the alternator that are attached. > LARGE RED (we know about this) > Small bluish-green-turquiose colored one. (goes to a very small stud) > On the harness leading up to the alternator there is also a small red with > black tracer that looks like it's been cut, but may have been attached to > the alternator at one point in time. I missed it initially as it was > flush with the sheathing the wires are in. I can't see anything on the > alternator AFA "W" goes, or any extra connections that this red wire > might've been attached to. > I'm stumped ! > > > Mike Smith, CET > Clinical Engineering Dept. > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > Phone (506) 452-5091 > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Nate Wall [SMTP:natewall1@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:44 AM > To: Smith, Michael > Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta Turbo Diesel mini > > Oh, there is another single thin wire that goes to the > back of the alternator too, its the wire that supplies > voltage to the regulator and rotor to magnetize it. It > has a ring connector and is held on by an 8 MM nut. > Its either blue or red w/ a white stripe. (I forget > which is which color for those 2 wires!). Then there > is the thick red wire that is directly connected to > the battery that is the alternator output wire. > > --Nate > --- Michael Smith wrote: > > Thanks NAte---I'll check the back of the alternator > > at lunchtime today. > > I had heard from different folks that they thought > > it was a mechanical > > tach....but now that I know it runs from a sensor in > > the alternator, it > > gives me a better idea what I'm up against ! > > > > -Mike > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Nate Wall [SMTP:natewall1@yahoo.com] > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:21 AM > > > To: Smith, Michael; 'vwdiesel@vwfans.com' > > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta > > Turbo Diesel mini > > > > > > A good bet is a break near the female connector in > > the > > > "W" wire. A real easy fix. Its the single thin > > wire > > > that plugs into the back of the alternator and > > there > > > is a "W" stamped on the alternator case next to > > it. > > > Its the tach RPM signal wire. (I think its red w/ > > a > > > white stripe) The diesel vibration over the years > > can > > > cause the wire to break, sometimes internally, so > > you > > > can't see it. In my case I had enough wire left to > > cut > > > the break out and resolder the same connector in > > > place. Next bet would be a loose connector > > connecting > > > the instrument cluster (wiggle the connector(s) > > with > > > the engine running while watching the tach) or a > > break > > > in the thin flimsy circuit board in the instrument > > > cluster (pull the cluster to check. Finally, I'd > > swap > > > out the tach if it still does not work. > > > --Nate. > > > --- Michael Smith wrote: > > > > > > > > re: Jetta Turbo Diesel > > > > > > > > > Hi All ! > > > > > > > > > > Sending this from my work account, so if you > > > > reply, please hit "reply all" > > > > > or include ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca in your reply, so > > > > I'll see it at home too! > > > > > I'm too cheap to buy a Bentley manual (at > > least > > > > until I decide I'm going > > > > > to keep the car or not) so I need your folks > > help. > > > > > > > > > > My tach finally quit after being intermittent > > > > since I bought the car in > > > > > March. Sometimes it would go months w/o any > > > > problems and other times it > > > > > would "act up" for the first 15-20 minutes of > > my > > > > daily commute for 1-2 > > > > > weeks, then work 100% for many weeks > > afterwards. > > > > Problem is, I don't know > > > > > what to look for. Obviously, there's no coil > > to > > > > check wires on. I > > > > > really don't "need" a tach, but it sure is > > nice to > > > > have. > > > > > > > > > > What circuit should I be looking at, or is it > > a > > > > mechanical tach running to > > > > > some gear off the crank or whatever?? > > > > > > > > > > 1988 Jetta GL, 1.6L Turbo Diesel Canadian Car. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks much folks ! > > > > > > > > > > Maybe I'll ask Santa for a "Bentley" (the > > manual, > > > > not the car, lol) if > > > > > it's still on the road @ Xmas time. > > > > > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > > > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > > > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > > > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > > > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > > > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site > > design software > > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From h_hagar at prcn.org Tue Sep 16 12:00:38 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glowplugs --- ( Afterglow -- afterthought's ). Message-ID: <003501c37c7d$10e05780$aaccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Nate Wall keep thinking -- please. Firstly , what was the purpose of plugs in the first place ???? "A starti= ng AID". Used only during startup. But wait , then it was discovered that l= eaving the plugs on until engine was up to temperature drastically reduced = the white fog time. Then enter the pollution snifters ---- suddenly afterglow was essential to = get a dieselcar on the road in eropa. So what was the problem ? -- the plugs kept burning out. Bosh then designe= d a new type plug . The one we use now (the one with the brass) It has an i= nternal resistor in series with the heater element. When the resistor heats= up the current is reduced to the heater tip so that it stays below critica= l temperature for the jacket. Us tinkerers would make our own reduced volta= ge afterglow using the old plugs.For the rest of you , when your bunny get = tired a new set of plugs and an afterglow relay is money well spent. = If Bentley is wrong (I say it is wrong) then the misinformation is propag= ating along all who quote it as correct. Charlie Brown's (roger) link is = off the hook in the sense that he does say he is repeating Bentley. Some of you please read the Bentley --- (mine is VRD4) section 5 page 6 = 3.1 and let's have your comments. The power on the plugs vary according to a square law --i.e. half volta= ge quarter power. more power =3Dmore temp. The way I read the Bentley is like this. The afterglow creates excessive ex= haust smoke after a cold start ----I am all ears if someone can explain WHY= . Like to know if anyone agrees the text is messed up. To show how voltage affects bulbs 100 Volt =3D 100% watts =3D 100 = % life if we up the voltage 8 volts 50% life. Now if we down the volt= age by 8 Volts the life increases to 310 %. So now you know what to do wh= en you have headlights on all the time. ----- lower the voltage a wee b= it. Hagar. -- From natewall1 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 16 12:43:08 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glowplugs --- ( Afterglow -- afterthought's ). In-Reply-To: <003501c37c7d$10e05780$aaccb5d0@prcn.org> Message-ID: <20030916184308.26916.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel tage a wee bit.>>> I do this with the guage lights, lower the brightness a tad w/ the rheostat. Its a bitch to replace these. A 5% voltage drop about doubles their life, I think. --Nate __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From laplante at mac.com Tue Sep 16 21:12:15 2003 From: laplante at mac.com (Mark LaPlante) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) In-Reply-To: <20030915185551.53444.qmail@web80706.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Nate, et al. I believe the plastic tray is intact. I think maybe the airbox that sits below it was broken by the PO and repaired poorly. It has one hole that was sealed with some black silicone, and I have temporarily taped over it with some electrical tape. The airbox itself is all sealed up with white silicone where it meets the bottom of the rain tray, and I think I am going to have to cut it open if I need to access it from that side. The car exhibits lots of quick and dirty cosmetic repairs like the bumper end caps being held on with some wire, all courtesy of the PO. germanimports.com comes up with a 404 - Not Found. Did you mean Adirondack (germanautoparts.com)? They have a blower that says for non-A/C cars for a reasonable price ($97.50). I will take a look at loosening the dashboard and maybe take some pictures of the problem with the airbox. Might not get to it until this weekend. Where is the vacuum hose that goes into the airbox supposed to attach in the engine compartment? Should an 82 US-built Rabbit have one of those under-hood reservoirs that looks like a bunch of plastic balls molded together? If so, I'm missing that too -- ugh. At least it starts and runs great (I think)! Mark LaPlante 82 Rabbit Diesel LS http://homepage.mac.com/laplante/PhotoAlbum8.html (I've cleaned it up a bit since those photos were taken.) On Monday, September 15, 2003, at 01:55 PM, Nate Wall wrote: > Hmmmmmmm.......Check out germanimports.com for a new > (reasonablly priced) blower motor. > > Is the leakage due to the plastic tray that is > supposed to sit below the slots near the windshield > being broken or missing? > From forrestking at juno.com Tue Sep 16 22:01:47 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) Message-ID: <20030916.210147.644.0.forrestking@juno.com> WHAT ARE YOU GUYS TALKING ABOUT? I HAVE BEEN DELETING THE POSTS WITH THE SUBJECT LINE "ARCHIVES QUESTION" BECUASE I DO NOT CARE ABOUT THE ARCHIVES BEING DOWNLOADED - AND IT COSTS MONEY TO DOWNLOAD EACH E-MAIL WHEN AWAY FROM HOME. please change the subject line to accuraetly reflect the subject- that is, after all, why it is there. Forrest On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 20:12:15 -0500 Mark LaPlante writes: > Nate, et al. > > I believe the plastic tray is intact. I think maybe the airbox that > sits below it was broken by the PO and repaired poorly. It has one > hole > that was sealed with some black silicone, and I have temporarily > taped Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Tue Sep 16 23:00:24 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glowplugs --- ( Afterglow -- afterthought's ). In-Reply-To: <003501c37c7d$10e05780$aaccb5d0@prcn.org> from "H .Hagar" at Sep 16, 2003 11:00:38 AM Message-ID: <200309170200.WAA15358@swamps.roc.ny.us> A recent table check on lamps, shows that lowering from 12V to 11.5V doubles the life of the bulb. -Val From r.c.brown at ieee.org Tue Sep 16 22:33:27 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Glowplugs --- ( Afterglow -- afterthought's ). References: <200309170200.WAA15358@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <3F67E417.21C9C7D7@ieee.org> Val Christian wrote: > > A recent table check on lamps, shows that lowering from 12V to 11.5V doubles > the life of the bulb. -Val True for a normal tungsten filament light bulb, but in the case of a quartz-halogen bulb, lowered voltage can lead to lessened life. Any light bulb filament will boil off metal ions as it heats up, the hotter it gets the more boil off there is. However, in a halogen-filled lamp, the hot gas forces the metal ions back to the filament's surface, through a process highly dependent on the temperature. Run at a slightly reduced voltage (and thus filament temperature) and the process doesn't work well and the light burns out faster. This is why you want to run a high current relay wiring harness with halogen headlights, as even 1/2 volt drop at the bulbs can cause them to burn out faster. Most of the "long life" bulbs you see are simply built for higher than nominal voltages, for 120V, a 130V or 140V bulb is used for longer life. Its often less efficient in terms of lumens/watt than a bulb running at its rated voltage. -- Roger From LBaird119 at aol.com Wed Sep 17 01:43:45 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( heater fan, et.al ) Message-ID: <15d.24a8087d.2c994081@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Where is the vacuum hose that goes into the airbox supposed to attach > in the engine compartment? Should an 82 US-built Rabbit have one of > those under-hood reservoirs that looks like a bunch of plastic balls > molded together? If so, I'm missing that too -- ugh. > > I do believe if you have factory A/C, with the vacuum assisted heater controls, you have the reservoir under the hood. The hose would connect to the vacuum pump line, to the booster. There's a T usually right above the vacuum pump. It IS possible that the PO gooped silicone around the heater-to-cowl interface to fix a water leak. Often people think something is leaking under there when it's just leaves or a cracked/broken plastic cover. Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Wed Sep 17 02:42:17 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] A listmember deserving vehicle if ever I saw one! Message-ID: <130.2517c3bb.2c994e39@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ? This would be great, especially for a rural mail route or small delivery stuff.? Too far for me to even think about.? :( ???? Loren Click here: eBay item 2432833468 (Ends Sep-21-03 19:02:54 PDT) - Volkswagen : Other Model From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Wed Sep 17 02:51:56 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] alternator/tach wire colors etc. In-Reply-To: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7AD@DECH_C> Message-ID: Have you had the car worked on lately, as in someone changed the alternator out with one that had no 'W' terminal, and snipped the wire? Bluegreen one is for the dash idiot light/ exciter circuit. Red one you know. (Big sparky one.) Red/ black trace is the tach. If you shiny up the back of the alternator casting with a wire brush you can see it better. if it's there. You are looking for a spade terminal that is flush with or just below the level of the casting, about 80 degrees clockwise from the bolt terminals. -James > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of Michael Smith > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 9:36 AM > To: 'vwdiesel@vwfans.com' > Subject: [Vwdiesel] alternator/tach wire colors etc. > > > Hi guys, > Just sent this to Nate, but decided to CC you all on it to. I'm stumped ! > > [>] > > Busy on my lunch hour but had another quick peek. > > THere are 2 wires coming from the alternator that are attached. > > LARGE RED (we know about this) > > Small bluish-green-turquiose colored one. (goes to a very small stud) > > On the harness leading up to the alternator there is also a > small red with > > black tracer that looks like it's been cut, but may have been > attached to > > the alternator at one point in time. I missed it initially as it was > > flush with the sheathing the wires are in. I can't see anything on the > > alternator AFA "W" goes, or any extra connections that this red wire > > might've been attached to. > > I'm stumped ! > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Nate Wall [SMTP:natewall1@yahoo.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:44 AM > > To: Smith, Michael > > Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta Turbo Diesel mini > > > > Oh, there is another single thin wire that goes to the > > back of the alternator too, its the wire that supplies > > voltage to the regulator and rotor to magnetize it. It > > has a ring connector and is held on by an 8 MM nut. > > Its either blue or red w/ a white stripe. (I forget > > which is which color for those 2 wires!). Then there > > is the thick red wire that is directly connected to > > the battery that is the alternator output wire. > > > > --Nate > > --- Michael Smith wrote: > > > Thanks NAte---I'll check the back of the alternator > > > at lunchtime today. > > > I had heard from different folks that they thought > > > it was a mechanical > > > tach....but now that I know it runs from a sensor in > > > the alternator, it > > > gives me a better idea what I'm up against ! > > > > > > -Mike > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: Nate Wall [SMTP:natewall1@yahoo.com] > > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:21 AM > > > > To: Smith, Michael; 'vwdiesel@vwfans.com' > > > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta > > > Turbo Diesel mini > > > > > > > > A good bet is a break near the female connector in > > > the > > > > "W" wire. A real easy fix. Its the single thin > > > wire > > > > that plugs into the back of the alternator and > > > there > > > > is a "W" stamped on the alternator case next to > > > it. > > > > Its the tach RPM signal wire. (I think its red w/ > > > a > > > > white stripe) The diesel vibration over the years > > > can > > > > cause the wire to break, sometimes internally, so > > > you > > > > can't see it. In my case I had enough wire left to > > > cut > > > > the break out and resolder the same connector in > > > > place. Next bet would be a loose connector > > > connecting > > > > the instrument cluster (wiggle the connector(s) > > > with > > > > the engine running while watching the tach) or a > > > break > > > > in the thin flimsy circuit board in the instrument > > > > cluster (pull the cluster to check. Finally, I'd > > > swap > > > > out the tach if it still does not work. > > > > --Nate. > > > > --- Michael Smith wrote: > > > > > > > > > > re: Jetta Turbo Diesel > > > > > > > > > > > Hi All ! > > > > > > > > > > > > Sending this from my work account, so if you > > > > > reply, please hit "reply all" > > > > > > or include ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca in your reply, so > > > > > I'll see it at home too! > > > > > > I'm too cheap to buy a Bentley manual (at > > > least > > > > > until I decide I'm going > > > > > > to keep the car or not) so I need your folks > > > help. > > > > > > > > > > > > My tach finally quit after being intermittent > > > > > since I bought the car in > > > > > > March. Sometimes it would go months w/o any > > > > > problems and other times it > > > > > > would "act up" for the first 15-20 minutes of > > > my > > > > > daily commute for 1-2 > > > > > > weeks, then work 100% for many weeks > > > afterwards. > > > > > Problem is, I don't know > > > > > > what to look for. Obviously, there's no coil > > > to > > > > > check wires on. I > > > > > > really don't "need" a tach, but it sure is > > > nice to > > > > > have. > > > > > > > > > > > > What circuit should I be looking at, or is it > > > a > > > > > mechanical tach running to > > > > > > some gear off the crank or whatever?? > > > > > > > > > > > > 1988 Jetta GL, 1.6L Turbo Diesel Canadian Car. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks much folks ! > > > > > > > > > > > > Maybe I'll ask Santa for a "Bentley" (the > > > manual, > > > > > not the car, lol) if > > > > > > it's still on the road @ Xmas time. > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > > > > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > > > > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > > > > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > > > > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > > > > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site > > > design software > > > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 From r3mismith at health.nb.ca Wed Sep 17 09:04:31 2003 From: r3mismith at health.nb.ca (Michael Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] woo-hoo-WE HAVE TACH! 1 more question though... Message-ID: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7AF@DECH_C> Hello all dieselheads..... Well, I found the source of my problem. I couldn't for the life of me figure out (after finding it buried in the sheath) how this super short red wire with black tracer could've been going to the alternator to power the tach sensor (is this the correct term?). It's way too short--(It must have been at one time, but not since I've owned the beast). Today, with a fresh mind I popped the hood of the Jetta and looked around. Lo and behold I noticed that there was an "extra" green wire running directly from the battery, tie wrapped up along the rad and down towards the alternator. In the past I had always dismissed this as a long gone fog light circuit, air horns, or whatever some PO must have installed at one time. I looked at it more closesly and saw that it indeed had a spade terminal on it. I stuck it onto the alternator into the recessed spade (thanks to whoever told me to look 80degrees away from the main lug, that really helped in the dim early morning light w/o a flashlight !) and stuck it on. Voila, we have tach ! My question is, will there not be current draw (all the time) with this sensor wired directly to the battery? The red/black wire surely must be switched 12VDC is it not? I can only presume this red/black wire is broken or whatever relay powers it is not working, etc. I know how to run a multimeter, etc. etc., but I didn't have time to do any testing this morning before coming to work. I thought maybe someone might know off hand. Thanks! Mike From natewall1 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 17 05:51:19 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] woo-hoo-WE HAVE TACH! 1 more question though... In-Reply-To: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7AF@DECH_C> Message-ID: <20030917115119.4641.qmail@web80704.mail.yahoo.com> The "W" wire connects to the battery? Odd. If that were the case there would be an internal jumber inside the alternator between the "W" and the output terminal. I'd splice the proper wire in the harness and make it a few inches longer and hook that to the "W" terminal. --Nate --- Michael Smith wrote: > Hello all dieselheads..... > > Well, I found the source of my problem. I couldn't > for the life of me > figure out (after finding it buried in the sheath) > how this super short red > wire with black tracer could've been going to the > alternator to power the > tach sensor (is this the correct term?). It's way > too short--(It must have > been at one time, but not since I've owned the > beast). > Today, with a fresh mind I popped the hood of the > Jetta and looked around. > Lo and behold I noticed that there was an "extra" > green wire running > directly from the battery, tie wrapped up along the > rad and down towards the > alternator. In the past I had always dismissed this > as a long gone fog > light circuit, air horns, or whatever some PO must > have installed at one > time. I looked at it more closesly and saw that it > indeed had a spade > terminal on it. I stuck it onto the alternator into > the recessed spade > (thanks to whoever told me to look 80degrees away > from the main lug, that > really helped in the dim early morning light w/o a > flashlight !) and stuck > it on. Voila, we have tach ! > > My question is, will there not be current draw (all > the time) with this > sensor wired directly to the battery? The red/black > wire surely must be > switched 12VDC is it not? I can only presume this > red/black wire is broken > or whatever relay powers it is not working, etc. > > I know how to run a multimeter, etc. etc., but I > didn't have time to do any > testing this morning before coming to work. I > thought maybe someone might > know off hand. > > Thanks! > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From natewall1 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 17 06:18:38 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( heater fan, et.al ) In-Reply-To: <15d.24a8087d.2c994081@aol.com> Message-ID: <20030917121838.8719.qmail@web80706.mail.yahoo.com> <<>>> My '85 Jetta TD W/ A/C uses vacuum A/C controls, but does not have a vacuum reservoir. I think I've heard in the past that the brake booster is so big on the diesels that is holds enough vacuum, so the reservoir is not needed. I know I do have power assist on the brakes for a few applications if I turn the engine off, such as sitting on a slight hill in traffic. Also, the A/C blend doors go haywire when this vacuum eventually bleeds off if I reapply the brakes a few times. --Nate __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From knitz at yahoo.com Wed Sep 17 07:48:18 2003 From: knitz at yahoo.com (Karl H. Nitz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] A3 clutch job - non-diesel Message-ID: <20030917134818.49551.qmail@web12403.mail.yahoo.com> Hi All, Although I sold my Diesel Caddy last Winter, I appeal to you for help with my gasser - a '94 Golf3 w/ 5spd. I'm doing a clutch replacement on it and have the tranny lossened up and ready to drop out. Low and behold it seems the front crossmember is keeping the engine from dropping any lower on an angle to allow the transmission to slide out. Is removing the front crossmember the only way to get this tranny out? Any other helpful hints from those who have BTDT? While I'm in this deep, I'll be doing all the engine rear main seal, tranny input shaft seal, tranny pushrod bushing, front engine and rear tranny mount, etc. replacements. Don't want to be pulling the tranny again anytime soon. Thanks, Karl '94 Golf3, 146k miles '89 Volvo 240DL, 147k miles '84 Honda VF1100S, 23k miles P.S. Anyone know of a list similar to this that covers A3 Golfs, etc.? __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From laplante at mac.com Wed Sep 17 09:50:31 2003 From: laplante at mac.com (Mark Laplante) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: vacuum assisted heater controls Message-ID: <8178109.1063806631343.JavaMail.laplante@mac.com> I had the vacuum booster rebuilt shortly after acquiring the car back in April; maybe they did not reconnect the vacuum line for the heater controls. I will look and see if I can see where to connect it. If there is a T that is open to the atmosphere (due to HVAC line being disconnected), wouldn't my brakes be affected? (I had the booster rebuilt because I would get only one good power assist. Creeping up behind traffic going slowly through an intersection would result in rock hard brakes on about the third application.) Thanks for the help, Mark >Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 05:18:38 -0700 (PDT) >From: Nate Wall >Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( heater fan, et.al ) >To: LBaird119@aol.com, vwdiesel@vwfans.com > ><<vacuum assisted heater controls, you have the >reservoir under the hood. The hose would connect to >the vacuum pump line, to the booster. There's a T >usually right above the vacuum pump.>>>> > >My '85 Jetta TD W/ A/C uses vacuum A/C controls, but >does not have a vacuum reservoir. I think I've heard >in the past that the brake booster is so big on the >diesels that is holds enough vacuum, so the reservoir >is not needed. I know I do have power assist on the >brakes for a few applications if I turn the engine >off, such as sitting on a slight hill in traffic. >Also, the A/C blend doors go haywire when this vacuum >eventually bleeds off if I reapply the brakes a few >times. > >--Nate > > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > >--__--__-- > >_______________________________________________ >vwdiesel mailing list >vwdiesel@vwfans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > >End of vwdiesel Digest > > From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Wed Sep 17 09:59:57 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Archives question --- ( for the computer Wizards ) In-Reply-To: <20030917122440.13586.qmail@web80710.mail.yahoo.com> from "Nate Wall" at Sep 17, 2003 05:24:40 AM Message-ID: <200309171259.IAA18189@swamps.roc.ny.us> Nate, Could be! I'll check it out when it gets cold. I imaging that slight pressure on the housing would make it worse if that were the case. I can see a harness with suction cups, pulling the housing out from the fan... Val > > Perhaps its the fan (Squirel cage) hitting the blower > housing due to the plastic contracting a bit from the > cold. There is NO clearance between the fan blade ends > and the housing. > > --nate > --- Val Christian wrote: > > How successful were you in re-oiling the fan motor? > > Mine's > > OK, until the cold WX hits. Then wowie, what a > > racket I can hear! > > > > Val > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I cracked the fan cage attempting to remove the > > fan > > > blade (cage) to re oil the bearings in the fan > > motor. > > > I figured I'd replace the fan blade after that. VW > > > sells the fan blade alright, but it only comes > > > attached to the fan for about $300! I lived w/ a > > > wobbly fan for a couple years then bought an > > > aftermarket one for about $85 new. > > > > > > --Nate > > > > > > > > > --- Sandy Cameron wrote: > > > > At 02:11 AM 9/16/03 EDT, you wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > As I recall it comes out the top of the air > > box. > > > > I don't remember if it's > > > > >possible to do it with the airbox in place or > > not. > > > > The only one I did, I > > > > >had out to clean it thouroughly. Be careful if > > you > > > > pull the fan off though. > > > > > > > > > >I nearly messed that one up and the fan in my > > Jetta > > > > has a wobble sound > > > > >on low, ever since I pulled the fan to lube the > > > > front motor bushing. It > > > > >turned better but now it's annoying. :P > > > > > Loren > > > > >___________________ > > > > > > > > I drilled a hole in the plastic nosecone so I > > could > > > > get the wd40 straw in to > > > > the bearing, then oiled it using a plastic tube > > on > > > > the 3in1 can > > > > > > > > Sandy > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site > > design software > > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > From ethan at forward.ca Wed Sep 17 11:30:25 2003 From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Sender unit In-Reply-To: <20030917121838.8719.qmail@web80706.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002501c37d28$3c3b7800$6401a8c0@sympatico.ca> Well, I found the leak in my fuel line. It's the tube at the top of the sender. When I went to cut the clamp to replace the fuel line, the tube broke off the sender. Is there a better place than the dealer to get a new one? Ethan From shea at gtsdesign.com Wed Sep 17 13:18:24 2003 From: shea at gtsdesign.com (Gary Shea) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6L TD rebuild: hints? Message-ID: I'm rebuilding a 1.6L TD, it's at the machine shop now. Gonna take the big hit for new pistons (cylinder wear is at 7-10 thou). I'm planning on new rod bushings and bearings, and new main bearings. The crank has a nasty groove ground in it on one of the mains. If the groove is too deep to grind out without replacing the crank, any idea of what will happen if I just ignore it? I don't want to get into "replace everything" mode, but I'm wondering if there are any known trouble spots that I should be doing something about. For instance, is there any reason to replace the oil pump? On the 2.0L type iv engine that's standard practice for a rebuild. I've got new valve guides, will try to press out the old ones and press the new ones in. I seem to recall that someone else had done this without special reamers and such. I'm planning on hand-lapping the valves. Advice appreciated! Regards, Gary From natewall1 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 17 13:50:10 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6L TD rebuild: hints? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030917195010.20264.qmail@web80708.mail.yahoo.com> Gary: Make sure the intermnediate shaft bearings are replaced, or are in darn good shape. I've heard this is overlooked quite a bit and a BIG reason for LOW oil pressure. I think special tools are needed to R & R them. For the valve giudes, drive them out (I used a 1/4 drive socket on an extension). Install the new ones w/ an 8 MM valve guide installation drift. Install new valve guide seals. I think a new oil pump is the way to go. --Nate --- Gary Shea wrote: > I'm rebuilding a 1.6L TD, it's at the machine shop > now. Gonna take the > big hit for new pistons (cylinder wear is at 7-10 > thou). I'm planning > on new rod bushings and bearings, and new main > bearings. The crank has > a nasty groove ground in it on one of the mains. If > the groove is too > deep to grind out without replacing the crank, any > idea of what will > happen if I just ignore it? > > I don't want to get into "replace everything" mode, > but I'm wondering if > there are any known trouble spots that I should be > doing something > about. For instance, is there any reason to replace > the oil pump? On > the 2.0L type iv engine that's standard practice for > a rebuild. > > I've got new valve guides, will try to press out the > old ones and press > the new ones in. I seem to recall that someone else > had done this > without special reamers and such. I'm planning on > hand-lapping the > valves. > > Advice appreciated! > > Regards, > > Gary > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca Wed Sep 17 23:09:24 2003 From: jhsg at sk.sympatico.ca (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Jet-A fuelled general aviation engines Message-ID: http://www.centurion-engines.com Some of you diesel heads may find the latest news releases interesting. http://www.centurion-engines.com/company/press_030904_50aircraft.htm I think these are such cool powerplants. I WANT. Then I'd have to buy a plane. heh. -James No portion of the above may be excerpted, reproduced or redistributed without the expressed written approval of the person most directly responsible for creation of the modern Western alphabet - or his/her assigns, heirs, affiliates, etc. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 From mwsnow at cox.net Thu Sep 18 06:24:59 2003 From: mwsnow at cox.net (Michael Snow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Jet-A fuelled general aviation engines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F69A41B.4090006@cox.net> I wonder who the engine manufacturer is? The FAQ for the Centurion 1.7 says "the engine is a derivative of one of the most technologically advanced automotive diesel engines available today." and "each core engine is completely disassembled and 20% of the engine parts are replaced with newly designed aircraft quality parts (e.g. crankshaft and gearbox assembly)." Mike Snow James Hansen wrote: > http://www.centurion-engines.com > > Some of you diesel heads may find the latest news releases interesting. > > http://www.centurion-engines.com/company/press_030904_50aircraft.htm > > I think these are such cool powerplants. I WANT. Then I'd have to buy a > plane. heh. > -James > > No portion of the above may be excerpted, reproduced or redistributed > without the > expressed written approval of the person most directly responsible for > creation of > the modern Western alphabet - or his/her assigns, heirs, affiliates, etc. > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Fri Sep 19 21:07:04 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] alternator/tach wire colors etc. References: Message-ID: <002f01c37f02$be3089a0$87f4a68e@livingroom> I stand to be corrected. The green wire (homebrew add-on) was not connected directly to the battery, but very near (like 1/4" away from) the battery. It looks like it was Mickey-Moused together as a replacement for the red/black wire that used to go to the W connector of the alternator. Lotsa Mickey-Mousing going on under the hood of this old Jetta. 381,000+kms and gosh knows how many owners before me. Still ticking away though- I love it ! Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Hansen" To: "Michael Smith" ; Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2003 4:51 AM Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] alternator/tach wire colors etc. > Have you had the car worked on lately, as in someone changed the alternator > out with one that had no 'W' terminal, and snipped the wire? > Bluegreen one is for the dash idiot light/ exciter circuit. > Red one you know. (Big sparky one.) > Red/ black trace is the tach. > If you shiny up the back of the alternator casting with a wire brush you can > see it better. if it's there. You are looking for a spade terminal that is > flush with or just below the level of the casting, about 80 degrees > clockwise from the bolt terminals. > -James > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > > Behalf Of Michael Smith > > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 9:36 AM > > To: 'vwdiesel@vwfans.com' > > Subject: [Vwdiesel] alternator/tach wire colors etc. > > > > > > Hi guys, > > Just sent this to Nate, but decided to CC you all on it to. I'm stumped ! > > > > [>] > > > Busy on my lunch hour but had another quick peek. > > > THere are 2 wires coming from the alternator that are attached. > > > LARGE RED (we know about this) > > > Small bluish-green-turquiose colored one. (goes to a very small stud) > > > On the harness leading up to the alternator there is also a > > small red with > > > black tracer that looks like it's been cut, but may have been > > attached to > > > the alternator at one point in time. I missed it initially as it was > > > flush with the sheathing the wires are in. I can't see anything on the > > > alternator AFA "W" goes, or any extra connections that this red wire > > > might've been attached to. > > > I'm stumped ! > > > > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: Nate Wall [SMTP:natewall1@yahoo.com] > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:44 AM > > > To: Smith, Michael > > > Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta Turbo Diesel mini > > > > > > Oh, there is another single thin wire that goes to the > > > back of the alternator too, its the wire that supplies > > > voltage to the regulator and rotor to magnetize it. It > > > has a ring connector and is held on by an 8 MM nut. > > > Its either blue or red w/ a white stripe. (I forget > > > which is which color for those 2 wires!). Then there > > > is the thick red wire that is directly connected to > > > the battery that is the alternator output wire. > > > > > > --Nate > > > --- Michael Smith wrote: > > > > Thanks NAte---I'll check the back of the alternator > > > > at lunchtime today. > > > > I had heard from different folks that they thought > > > > it was a mechanical > > > > tach....but now that I know it runs from a sensor in > > > > the alternator, it > > > > gives me a better idea what I'm up against ! > > > > > > > > -Mike > > > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > From: Nate Wall [SMTP:natewall1@yahoo.com] > > > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2003 10:21 AM > > > > > To: Smith, Michael; 'vwdiesel@vwfans.com' > > > > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] FW: TACH stopped-88 Jetta > > > > Turbo Diesel mini > > > > > > > > > > A good bet is a break near the female connector in > > > > the > > > > > "W" wire. A real easy fix. Its the single thin > > > > wire > > > > > that plugs into the back of the alternator and > > > > there > > > > > is a "W" stamped on the alternator case next to > > > > it. > > > > > Its the tach RPM signal wire. (I think its red w/ > > > > a > > > > > white stripe) The diesel vibration over the years > > > > can > > > > > cause the wire to break, sometimes internally, so > > > > you > > > > > can't see it. In my case I had enough wire left to > > > > cut > > > > > the break out and resolder the same connector in > > > > > place. Next bet would be a loose connector > > > > connecting > > > > > the instrument cluster (wiggle the connector(s) > > > > with > > > > > the engine running while watching the tach) or a > > > > break > > > > > in the thin flimsy circuit board in the instrument > > > > > cluster (pull the cluster to check. Finally, I'd > > > > swap > > > > > out the tach if it still does not work. > > > > > --Nate. > > > > > --- Michael Smith wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > re: Jetta Turbo Diesel > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi All ! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sending this from my work account, so if you > > > > > > reply, please hit "reply all" > > > > > > > or include ve9aa@nbnet.nb.ca in your reply, so > > > > > > I'll see it at home too! > > > > > > > I'm too cheap to buy a Bentley manual (at > > > > least > > > > > > until I decide I'm going > > > > > > > to keep the car or not) so I need your folks > > > > help. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > My tach finally quit after being intermittent > > > > > > since I bought the car in > > > > > > > March. Sometimes it would go months w/o any > > > > > > problems and other times it > > > > > > > would "act up" for the first 15-20 minutes of > > > > my > > > > > > daily commute for 1-2 > > > > > > > weeks, then work 100% for many weeks > > > > afterwards. > > > > > > Problem is, I don't know > > > > > > > what to look for. Obviously, there's no coil > > > > to > > > > > > check wires on. I > > > > > > > really don't "need" a tach, but it sure is > > > > nice to > > > > > > have. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > What circuit should I be looking at, or is it > > > > a > > > > > > mechanical tach running to > > > > > > > some gear off the crank or whatever?? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 1988 Jetta GL, 1.6L Turbo Diesel Canadian Car. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks much folks ! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Maybe I'll ask Santa for a "Bentley" (the > > > > manual, > > > > > > not the car, lol) if > > > > > > > it's still on the road @ Xmas time. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Mike Smith, CET > > > > > > > Clinical Engineering Dept. > > > > > > > River Valley Health, NB, Canada > > > > > > > Phone (506) 452-5091 > > > > > > > r3mismith@health.nb.ca > > > > > > > Fax (506) 447-4320 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > > > > > > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site > > > > design software > > > > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > > > Do you Yahoo!? > > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > --- > > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > > Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.515 / Virus Database: 313 - Release Date: 09/01/2003 > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 20:17:53 2003 From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Filters ---- ( VW Bosch 1 457 434 106 ) References: <000e01c37b30$35de17a0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> Message-ID: The OEM TDI filter only filters down to 10 microns. OEM IDI filters are probably also 10 micron filters. The first generation "spin-on" filters probably did a better job than today's filters. Chris Thornton 1991 VW Jetta 2 door 1.6 Diesel - 239k miles 2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 87k miles Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "H .Hagar" To: Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2003 9:22 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] Filters ---- ( VW Bosch 1 457 434 106 ) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Does anyone know the micron rating if these filters ???. Considering the crappy fuel we have to deal with a really good filter is paramount. I am considering using a Stanadyne as a secondary ---just before the pump. Stanadyne makes a nice glass water separator as well. 980 36 ? Kralinator FS758 . I have 2 micron spin on Caterpillar elements here but no holder., Who is our filter WIZARD ?. please speak up ---thanks . Hagar PS: Driving that little 1984 Bunny Rabbit 1.6 turbo is so much fun I got 1853.4 Km mostly testing and tuning (joyriding) bloody skylarking he is. There are no roads out of here , but good roads in the area. From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 22:00:27 2003 From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] re A3 clutch job Message-ID: I have done a couple of clutches on A3 Jettas with the turbo diesel (CDN cars), I found removing the shift linkage bracket or arm made the removal alot easier and used a chain hoist to lower it to the ground. Make sure the axles are disconnected, you may need to undo a balljoint inorder to get it out of the way, remove the shiter rods and three bolts in the rear diff area holding the arm to the trans (really long bolts, three in a row down the back of the trans), undo the trans mount, remove the starter and front mount. You have to move the trans at an angle to clear various parts but it will come out, the trickiest part is getting it off the flywheel Hope this helps, Greg _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From RedMerk at aol.com Fri Sep 19 23:52:46 2003 From: RedMerk at aol.com (RedMerk@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi Diesel Message-ID: <17a.2045de21.2c9d1afe@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] One of you fellows recently reported that there was an Audi Diesel for sale in Northern Ohio. I would have interest in that vehicle, if it were still for sale and someone could send me the phone number to contact the owner. Emmit Williams From Doyt at NWOnline.Net Sat Sep 20 02:56:05 2003 From: Doyt at NWOnline.Net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi Diesel In-Reply-To: <17a.2045de21.2c9d1afe@aol.com> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030920015212.0150cc78@mail.nwonline.net> Hello Emmit.......Here is what I posted on 9/1/03: This ad appeared in The Cleveland Plain Dealer classified today-Labor Day: "Audi 1983: 5000 Turbo Diesel limited edition, rare, every available option. 120k, $1,000. phone 440-942-0906." I know nothing about this car or the seller, and live 60 miles away. I am in Cleveland about 4 days every week, and could look into this ad for someone, if they are interested. I am posting it because I recently saw a list post asking about TD 5000's, so some one might like to know about this one. Doyt Echelberger Ohio USA >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 10:52 PM 9/19/2003 -0400, you wrote: >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >One of you fellows recently reported that there was an Audi Diesel for sale >in Northern Ohio. I would have interest in that vehicle, if it were still for >sale and someone could send me the phone number to contact the owner. > >Emmit Williams >_______________________________________________ From william at taygan.com Sat Sep 20 00:19:23 2003 From: william at taygan.com (Will Taygan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbly injectors - uh oh. Message-ID: <006801c37f3f$24447800$678e520c@finneyg9nhzs76> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Re: 1982 Jetta 1.6 NA It seems that my injectors are not sealing well. After a minute or two bub= bles come up around the injectors. This is the same car that had the PO's = heat shield stuck in there for a good 10 days (out due to the sears hook a= nd pick set and a lot of P'Blaster). I've pulled everything, cleaned it ou= t fairly well, then put in new heat shields (twice). Any suggestions on ho= w to clean out the injector holes? I was thinking a brass pipe cleaner bru= sh attached to a drill, but I'm a bit nervous about damaging it worse. How= about a sealing compound? Anyone had a similar problem? The car runs *gr= eat* - I've got slightly low compression in the leaky cylinders, but with = new glow plugs it starts better than the pickup. Thanks, Will Taygan 81 vw diesel pickup 82 vw diesel jetta Concrete, WA -- From natewall1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 20 07:28:00 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbly injectors - uh oh. In-Reply-To: <006801c37f3f$24447800$678e520c@finneyg9nhzs76> Message-ID: <20030920132800.36272.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Are you sure its not the injector(s) leaking where the two halves screw together? How about using some teflon tape or pipe thread sealer used for natural gas pipe? --nate --- Will Taygan wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Re: 1982 Jetta 1.6 NA > > It seems that my injectors are not sealing well. > After a minute or two bubbles come up around the > injectors. This is the same car that had the PO's > heat shield stuck in there for a good 10 days (out > due to the sears hook and pick set and a lot of > P'Blaster). I've pulled everything, cleaned it out > fairly well, then put in new heat shields (twice). > Any suggestions on how to clean out the injector > holes? I was thinking a brass pipe cleaner brush > attached to a drill, but I'm a bit nervous about > damaging it worse. How about a sealing compound? > Anyone had a similar problem? The car runs *great* > - I've got slightly low compression in the leaky > cylinders, but with new glow plugs it starts better > than the pickup. > > > Thanks, > > Will Taygan > 81 vw diesel pickup > 82 vw diesel jetta > Concrete, WA > -- > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From h_hagar at prcn.org Sat Sep 20 07:36:26 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injectors 1982 1,6L NA --( the bubbly kind ) Message-ID: <000201c37f7c$9a5156c0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I am tackling the same kind of problems right now . !982 Rabbit 1.6L NA.. = Give us a bit more inf.. How do you test for bubblies ???. I use dish l= iquid. The fact that we are dealing with an aluminium head , dictates a b= it of caution.It is possible to make a tool from a heatshield --- I used a= n old one . A new one is probably better.We are trying to do something simi= lar to a valve seating job. . To get the deposit cleaned out , if the injec= tor was leaking for a long time is time consuming. By the way I pushed = the crap inside . The job here is not finished I am waiting to get new noz= zles. Have a spare (scrap) head for experimenting on , so if you have so= me crazy idea I am willing to test it out. Test both the injector body and = the injector to head thread. Use your imagination there are many ways to ge= t it to seal. Over-tightening should be last choice. Let us know how you = make out. Hagar. PS: Cleaning out "Fairly well" is not good enough. -- From h_hagar at prcn.org Sat Sep 20 09:15:35 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pumps Bosch VE --( Pump pressure and smoke ) Message-ID: <000201c37f8a$d132fd20$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The internal pump pressure is so important , that I feel it is ok to say it= again. This is aimed at Will Taygan and Greg Rich. Those old tired en= gines need pump pressure to produce advertised power without smoking. For the VW 068 130 107 A and the rest of that line here are the pressure= s=2E ( try to verify for yourself ) 500 RPM 2.4 to 3.0 Bar. 34.8 to 43.5 Psi. 750 Rpm 3.5 to 4.1 Bar 50.8 to 59.5 Psi. 1000 Rpm 4.6 to 5.2 Bar 66.7 to 75.4 Psi. The tricky part is the fact that pressure decreases little bit by bit so it= is hard to tell by driving when it is too low. How to tell if timing is working ??? well that's a more difficult one.Feeli= ng the cold start cam is one way , the cam pressure should disappear at abo= ut 2000 RPM (engine) . With the proper pressure it is possible for the timi= ng to stick for many reasons , such as gummed up.One thing for sure it will= not work without lots of pressure. I have a spring in my hand , trust me t= hat is one hard spring to compress with your hands (about a 1.5 inch long c= oil). Use an old inlet banjo to add a gauge to outlet.I machined a longer centerb= olt to hold the two banjos required.works like a charm. Piece of cake , can= see pressure while driving ---even. Picture avilable on request. Can we do anything if pressure is too low ??? = yes we can , but that another time. Hagar. PS: Note that Pump pressure is measured at pump RPM. -- From william at taygan.com Sat Sep 20 09:49:57 2003 From: william at taygan.com (Will Taygan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbly injectors - uh oh. References: <20030920132800.36272.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001501c37f8e$d9f1ec60$b289520c@finneyg9nhzs76> More on the bubbly injectors: The injectors themselves are old but fine. I had the pressure re-set to 130 bar and the bodies don't leak. I cleaned the threads and seating area with a pick to get in the tight spots, and yes, I pushed the gunk in too. I already replaced heat shield #1, It looked carboned with little chunks from only a few miles of driving, but the space between the injector and the head (the injector socket?) was squeaky clean!? Strange. The bubbles are definitely coming from the head-injector seal. I don't want to use any compound that will permanently lock the injectors in there. The PO had used some other kind of heat shield with a larger opening (I'll measure it later today.) This other heat shield seems to have helped on cylinder #2, but not on cylinder #1. I found the bubbles because I was bleeding the injectors, and diesel was dribbling down onto the head. Only one was bubbling at first, then two. Humph. I'm a bit worried that I'll make it worse by driving it around. Thanks, Will Taygan Concrete, WA From Doyt at NWOnline.Net Sat Sep 20 13:58:09 2003 From: Doyt at NWOnline.Net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi Diesel ad update Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20030920125519.0147e408@mail.nwonline.net> Hello Emmit.......the 1983 Audi TD is advertised in today's Plain Dealer at $900, down $100 from thw seller's ad on Labor day. Same phone number 440-942-0906. Doyt Echelberger Ohio USA >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 10:52 PM 9/19/2003 -0400, you wrote: >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >One of you fellows recently reported that there was an Audi Diesel for sale >in Northern Ohio. I would have interest in that vehicle, if it were still for >sale and someone could send me the phone number to contact the owner. > >Emmit Williams >_______________________________________________ From natewall1 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 20 12:27:32 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbly injectors - uh oh. In-Reply-To: <001501c37f8e$d9f1ec60$b289520c@finneyg9nhzs76> Message-ID: <20030920182732.19498.qmail@web80706.mail.yahoo.com> <<>> I take it you are using NEW heat shields and installed the correct side up. I would bet that the sealing surface on the injector nozzles are worn (pitted) since the PO used (incorrect) heat shields w/ larger holes in them. All I know is that the injector nozzle surface under where the hole in the heat shield is becomes erroded away and pitted. Now w/ the correct shields in place, they don't seal because the nozzles are pitted underneath. Possibly time to have the nozzles replaced. Rebuilt injectors run about the same, $35 each. If the leaking is not bad enough (minor), just live w/ it. --Nate __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From forrestking at juno.com Sat Sep 20 15:23:37 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] adjusting valves Message-ID: <20030920.142338.5540.0.forrestking@juno.com> Guys, I revently was having trouble with my 1.6 NA in my truck. I determined the valves needed to be adjusted and took it to a shop in Tulsa, OK. The guy adjusted the valves and it ran OK for about 170 miles. After moving 600 miles and towing the little truck behind the big truck all the way to Houston TX, I began experiencing more problems. I checked the vlaves while the engine was cold and they were all barely within the 'cold specs' in the bentley. I checked them while they were warm and they were WAY off, only 2 of the 8 buckets were within specs. I originally had the valves adjusted for 73 dollars in TUlsa, and I chose to have him adjust the valves so that I did not have to buy the tools. now in Houston I called around and the cheapest I could find to get the valves adjusted was 150 dollars for labor plus 6 dollars per shim. I decided to buy the complete shim kit from Jack at www.vwdieselparts.com and it set me back 179 bucks. I adjusted my valves this morning and all is running well, the little truck is now able to get up to about 77MPH!!!!!!!! While adjusting my valves I noticed that all of the sims were the same size. It seems like the guy in Tulsa OK who did the valves just slapped in whatever he had the most of, and that happened to be .144 shims. What a jackass - So, if you need to adjust your valves, be sure to do it while the engine is at operating temperature. I managed to avoid any burns, i am very pleased about this. If you need to use the tools feel free to e-mail me. Local to the Houston Metro area it would be no problem, any where else- we can figure it out then. Forrest ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Sat Sep 20 16:11:21 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubbly injectors - uh oh. In-Reply-To: <001501c37f8e$d9f1ec60$b289520c@finneyg9nhzs76> from "Will Taygan" at Sep 20, 2003 08:49:57 AM Message-ID: <200309201911.PAA06929@swamps.roc.ny.us> FWIW, I had a 1.6 which _did_ leak a tiny bit on #3 and #4. Running, it was only enough to just detect. Many miles (100k++) later I had the injector out, and didn't notice any erosion. A new heatshield fixed #4 but not #3. I figured the total leak volume was EXTREMELY small. Good luck. Val > > More on the bubbly injectors: > > The injectors themselves are old but fine. I had the pressure re-set to 130 > bar and the bodies don't leak. > > I cleaned the threads and seating area with a pick to get in the tight > spots, and yes, I pushed the gunk in too. > > I already replaced heat shield #1, It looked carboned with little chunks > from only a few miles of driving, but the space between the injector and the > head (the injector socket?) was squeaky clean!? Strange. > > The bubbles are definitely coming from the head-injector seal. I don't want > to use any compound that will permanently lock the injectors in there. > > The PO had used some other kind of heat shield with a larger opening (I'll > measure it later today.) This other heat shield seems to have helped on > cylinder #2, but not on cylinder #1. > > I found the bubbles because I was bleeding the injectors, and diesel was > dribbling down onto the head. Only one was bubbling at first, then two. > Humph. > > I'm a bit worried that I'll make it worse by driving it around. > > Thanks, > > Will Taygan > Concrete, WA > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From LBaird119 at aol.com Sat Sep 20 17:53:14 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] adjusting valves Message-ID: <115.28ee763b.2c9e183a@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 9/20/2003 12:33:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, forrestking@juno.com writes: > It seems like the guy in Tulsa OK who did the valves just slapped > in whatever he had the most of, and that happened to be .144 shims. > What a jackass - > And people wonder why I do everything myself! (Sometimes it DOES get old not being able to find good work/service for things.) Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Sat Sep 20 17:48:37 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi Diesel ad update Message-ID: <23.34ff5339.2c9e1725@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hello Emmit.......the 1983 Audi TD is advertised in today's Plain Dealer at $900 Buy it! We need another list member with one of these! :) I sure hope to get time to finish mine. :P Loren From weasel1 at sympatico.ca Sat Sep 20 18:49:48 2003 From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (Derek) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <000801c37fc1$1d9510f0$93baacce@derek> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] For about a month now, I have hard this groaning/creaking noise from the fr= ont. This can only be heard when at really slow speed when there is a lot o= f movement in the steering wheel ( i.e.. parking ) The noise is very simila= r to an oversized tire rubbing on a mudflap or fender. Sometimes if I turn = too far to the right ( or left ), it will literally make a "pop" noise. I h= ad no abnormal pulling to one side or the other until the other day. Now it= pulls to the right slightly, but all the time ( well unless I have a nice = breeze blowing on the right side of the car correcting it )I have had the b= earings replaced once before, but this was quite some time ago. About 100,0= 00KM ago to be exact. The only other thing that I can think that it might b= e would be the ball joints, but I am leaning toward the strut bearings. Ass= uming it is the bearings, can I get away without using a spring compressor = to remove them ? I was thinking that I may be able to loosen the nut while = the car is still on the ground and then jack it up. Then I won't have a fly= ing spring. -- From markonee1 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 20 22:52:53 2003 From: markonee1 at hotmail.com (Mark Shepherd) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hubble bubble Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Will, Is it possible that the bubbling is just fluid that youre introducing into your now 'clean' threads warming up and evaporating....I recall you saying it starts after a few minutes (ie) when area around the injectors is hot... Mark(The Miser)UK "Theres nothing more disturbing than driving past someone's bonfire ...and realising its actually your car smoking" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Get a free connection, half-price modem and one month FREE, when you sign up for BT Broadband today![1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUK/2731??PS= From h_hagar at prcn.org Sun Sep 21 13:30:08 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Mail test # 12 Message-ID: <000e01c38076$c5a188e0$20ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Testing. Hagar. -- From forrestking at juno.com Sun Sep 21 16:07:26 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Mail test # 12 Message-ID: <20030921.150728.5000.0.forrestking@juno.com> IT WORKS!! Eureka :) On Sun, 21 Sep 2003 12:30:08 -0700 "H .Hagar" writes: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Testing. Hagar. > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From h_hagar at prcn.org Sun Sep 21 14:29:18 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Injectors --- ( more of the bubly ) Message-ID: <000b01c3807f$096dd260$4fccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ----- Original Message ----- From: H .Hagar To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com Sent: September 21, 2003 8:57 AM Subject: Fw: Injectors --- ( more of the bubly ) ----- Original Message ----- From: H .Hagar To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com Sent: September 21, 2003 8:07 AM Subject: Injectors --- ( more of the bubly ) I am willing to bet that there are few Old Volks totally without bubbles , = the way I check them. Do I have bubbles ? yes --- am I going to do so= mething about it --yes I am going to keep driving. It has to do with judgme= nt . very small bubbles drive , big bubbles pull the injector. One point is very important "DO NOT" cross thread the injectors.If you do t= hey will never seal, The end of barrel must be square with machined seat fo= r heat shield. A damaged thread may be a problem. In that case I would = experiment with a sealant. White Teflon tape ??? well the Olds injectors= some of them have a Teflon seal and some of them a copper washer. Hagar. PS: Use water and dish detergent and do the test on a cool engine.And let = the rest of us know. Here? #1 Bubbles and #4 bubbles. (small). -- From steve at facethemusic.fsworld.co.uk Mon Sep 22 00:20:10 2003 From: steve at facethemusic.fsworld.co.uk (steve channing) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Biodiesel ? Message-ID: <000801c3808e$8656e960$6e6a4e51@yourhky0mwibgd> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hello From An English Newbie ! Just accessed a Biofuels site...........it says biodiesel only OK for 1996 = onwards VW engines. Mines a 1993 Golf CL Turbo Diesel with, of course, the = indirect injection. Actually the site also says just 'cos your car ain't th= ere don't mean it ain't OK...but there's also a load of stuff about rubber = fuel lines not liking it etc.....does anyone have any thoughts on this ? My= first VW by the way, and I love it ! Had two big petrol Audis before and l= oved them too.... Cheers Steve -- From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Sun Sep 21 20:39:29 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] A listmember deserving vehicle if ever I saw one! References: <130.2517c3bb.2c994e39@aol.com> Message-ID: <022f01c38099$9b1b11e0$6600a8c0@lee> Way too cool! That would have made a decent amateur radio comm van. If I hadn't just had a '97 Passat TDI offered to me for a price I couldn't pass up..... Relatively speaking, right in my back yard, too! Loren usually gets all the good stuff over on the other coast. With the combination of a 1.6, auto trans, and the aerodynamics of a brick, I think an aircooled bus would run away from it. :-)) Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI This would be great, especially for a rural mail route or small delivery stuff. Too far for me to even think about. :( Loren Click here: eBay item 2432833468 (Ends Sep-21-03 19:02:54 PDT) - Volkswagen : Other Model _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From dscc at ticon.net Sun Sep 21 21:18:58 2003 From: dscc at ticon.net (dscc) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Stuck in 5th gear! Message-ID: <3F6E4E02.91AB4129@ticon.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- Hey guys...need some advice. When I leave my 1996 Passat in 5th gear and come to a complete stop..it locks. I try to double clutch very quickly and it is still stuck. Last couple of times I had to kill it....still had trouble getting it out of 5th.....any ideas what's up??? don -- Content-Description: Card for dscc [ dscc.vcf of type text/x-vcard deleted ] -- From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Sun Sep 21 22:53:31 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Stuck in 5th gear! References: <3F6E4E02.91AB4129@ticon.net> Message-ID: <025901c380ac$552627c0$6600a8c0@lee> > Hey guys...need some advice. When I leave my 1996 Passat in 5th gear > and come to a complete stop..it locks. I try to double clutch very > quickly and it is still stuck. Last couple of times I had to kill > it....still had trouble getting it out of 5th.....any ideas what's up??? Does it do it only in 5th gear? Any problems getting it into gear from a standstill in neutral with the engine running? Sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging. To see if this is the case, start the car in neutral and step on the clutch. Wait a moment, and try to shift into reverse. If it grinds repeatedly, the clutch is not disengaging. If that's not it, my next guess would be motor mounts. Which does this car have, rods or cables between the shifter and transmission? I would think that a cable shifter would tend to be more tolerant of misaligned motor mounts than one with rods. Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From salex at dsl.cis.upenn.edu Mon Sep 22 00:43:33 2003 From: salex at dsl.cis.upenn.edu (Scott Alexander) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] wheels Message-ID: <1064202213.4041.61.camel@localhost.localdomain> I finally picked up my 1982 Rabbit Diesel. (I got it in an ebay auction. There were some paperwork issues which delayed pickup for the last several months.) I'm generally fairly pleased with the car. However, I've been told by a friend who knows a fair amount about Rabbits that I should be looking for a set of 4 steel wheels as the current rims are not straight. A bit of time with google hasn't really helped. Any suggestions on the best place to get a reasonably priced set of wheels? Thanks, Scott -- Scott Alexander From LBaird119 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 03:19:12 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:01 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] wheels Message-ID: <7f.3cb3a969.2c9fee60@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Any suggestions on the best place to get a reasonably priced set of wheels Local classifieds, "nickel ads" bulletin board at the local parts store, word of mouth, wrecking yard, ebay... Wheels from 75 to 84 are a direct fit. Later ones are bolt on but the offset is a little more (less?) You can find 4", 4.5" and 5" wheels that for the most part, look the same. The width is measureable and also stamped on the face between the rim and bolt circle. Get the width you want and all the same prefferably. This pertains to 13 inch wheels. 14 inch wheels may differ a tad. Loren From ea82t at yahoo.co.uk Mon Sep 22 09:31:56 2003 From: ea82t at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?Simon=20Rook?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Biodiesel ? In-Reply-To: <000801c3808e$8656e960$6e6a4e51@yourhky0mwibgd> Message-ID: <20030922073156.93867.qmail@web20909.mail.yahoo.com> The info is correct, older fuel systems contain rubber seals and hoses that can be damaged by certain bio Diesel types, but not all..other things to note if using bio Diesel is that it is prone to sedimenting, so if leaving the vehicle standing for longer than a week, use normal Diesel for a while to stop the system gumming up! Simon --- steve channing wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Hello From An English Newbie ! > Just accessed a Biofuels site...........it says > biodiesel only OK for 1996 onwards VW engines. Mines > a 1993 Golf CL Turbo Diesel with, of course, the > indirect injection. Actually the site also says just > 'cos your car ain't there don't mean it ain't > OK...but there's also a load of stuff about rubber > fuel lines not liking it etc.....does anyone have > any thoughts on this ? My first VW by the way, and I > love it ! Had two big petrol Audis before and loved > them too.... > Cheers > Steve > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel ________________________________________________________________________ Want to chat instantly with your online friends? Get the FREE Yahoo! Messenger http://mail.messenger.yahoo.co.uk From FJ40Jim at aol.com Mon Sep 22 09:19:54 2003 From: FJ40Jim at aol.com (FJ40Jim@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi 5K Diesel ad update Message-ID: <3B77653F.7CA81FBD.0014D7E0@aol.com> Hey DeezlDubbers, Out of curiosity, did Audi ever sell the "modern" 83-88 5000 in the US w/ a diesel engine? It is listed in service manuals sometimes, but I have never actually seen one. In a message dated 9/22/2003, vwdiesel-request@vwfans.com writes: > Hello Emmit.......the 1983 Audi TD is advertised in today's Plain Dealer at > $900 > > Buy it! We need another list member with one of these! > :) I sure hope to get time to finish mine. :P Thanks, Jim Chenoweth Lancaster, Ohio, USA From weasel1 at sympatico.ca Mon Sep 22 11:17:55 2003 From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (weasel) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <20030922141756.IPMX9324.tomts14-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> Is there a simple way to check and see if it is in fact the ball joints ?? I posted this on the TDIClub and one guy responded that he thought it was the CV joints. It almost makes sense, but it doesn't explain the recent alignment changes. Its definately one of three things; upper bearings, ball joints or CV joints. > > From: Sandy Cameron > Date: 2003/09/20 Sat PM 07:31:11 EST > To: "Derek" > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit > long .. > > At 05:49 PM 9/20/03 -0400, you wrote: > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > The only other thing that I can think that it might be would be the ball > joints, > > That's it, unless you have a loose wheel! > > Sandy > > From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca Mon Sep 22 08:11:17 2003 From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] wheels In-Reply-To: <1064202213.4041.61.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <3F6EA095.4223.46B5FB6@localhost> These should be easy to find at a wrecker - any wheels from a '73 - 98 VW or Audi with 4 bolts should work. I'd look for later 14x6" wheels, they give you a wider choice of decent tires, or at least get the wider 13" wheels found on the LS model Rabbits. I think even the early 16V Passat 15" wheels will fit... On 21 Sep 2003 at 23:43, Scott Alexander wrote: > I finally picked up my 1982 Rabbit Diesel. (I got it in an ebay > auction. There were some paperwork issues which delayed pickup for the > last several months.) I'm generally fairly pleased with the car. > However, I've been told by a friend who knows a fair amount about > Rabbits that I should be looking for a set of 4 steel wheels as the > current rims are not straight. A bit of time with google hasn't really > helped. Any suggestions on the best place to get a reasonably priced > set of wheels? > > Thanks, > Scott > -- > Scott Alexander > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > -- Shawn Wright http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright '88 Westy 375k '85 Jetta D 263k '85 Jetta TD 482k (retired) ~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~ "Friends don't let friends use Outlook" From r.c.brown at ieee.org Mon Sep 22 08:41:51 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. References: <20030922141756.IPMX9324.tomts14-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> Message-ID: <3F6F0A2F.891EAA58@ieee.org> weasel wrote: > > Is there a simple way to check and see if it is in fact the ball joints ?? I posted this on the TDIClub and one guy responded that he thought it was the CV joints. It almost makes sense, but it doesn't explain the recent alignment changes. Its definately one of three things; upper bearings, ball joints or CV joints. Bentley shows a test procedure for checking the ball joint. I tried it on my old '81 and found it had worn out joints. Jack up the front end and use a lever to pry up and down on the LCA and measure the ball joint vertical play, over 2.5mm is worn. -- Roger From natewall1 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 22 08:46:50 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. In-Reply-To: <20030922141756.IPMX9324.tomts14-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> Message-ID: <20030922144650.59273.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> This is how I discovered I had a bad ball joint. At about 140,000 miles I all of a sudden noticed the steering wheel was off center a little when going straight. Upon returning home I jacked up the front and I noticed alot of in/out play in the LF wheel when grabbing it at 12 and 6 O'Clock and push/pulling on it. Obviously a bad ball joint. Tell-tale sign. The ball joint failed very suddenly, I think (Which I thought was rather odd, since its rubber boot was undamaged. Removal of the joint revealed it was in fact worn out. The other side got replaced at the same time. Strut bearings that have play in them tend to "Knock" when going over slight irregularities in the road at slow speeds. The sound will drive you nuts trying top figure out the cause, unless you know what it is!! I even replaced control arm bushings once, being unable to locate the source, to NO AVAIL!, when in fact it weas strut brearing play. Notice I did not say strut bearing failure. Many times new bearings are installed and their spacer is too wide and they knock. (Not enough pre-load). Roger Brown has an excellent write up on the cause and solution on his web site. You can drive A LONG time on noisy strut bearings. Another thing I have trouble with is telling if its a CV joint or wheel bearing going. Last time, I replaced all of these at the same time due to my inability to tell which was witch after two weekends of messing w/ it! A wheel bearing failing tends to groan a little when turning at speed ane way, and not the other, like when changing lanes, or exiting the highway on an exit ramp. How do you tell if its the inner ot outter CV joint that is noisy? That stumps me. And not differential bearings going bad. --Nate --- weasel wrote: > Is there a simple way to check and see if it is in > fact the ball joints ?? I posted this on the > TDIClub and one guy responded that he thought it was > the CV joints. It almost makes sense, but it > doesn't explain the recent alignment changes. Its > definately one of three things; upper bearings, ball > joints or CV joints. > > > > > > From: Sandy Cameron > > Date: 2003/09/20 Sat PM 07:31:11 EST > > To: "Derek" > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper > strut bearings ?? a bit > > long .. > > > > At 05:49 PM 9/20/03 -0400, you wrote: > > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > The only other thing that I can think that it > might be would be the ball > > joints, > > > > That's it, unless you have a loose wheel! > > > > Sandy > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From LBaird119 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 11:47:25 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi 5K Diesel ad update Message-ID: <6.18d84f46.2ca0657d@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hey DeezlDubbers, Out of curiosity, did Audi ever sell the "modern" 83-88 5000 in the US w/ a diesel engine? It is listed in service manuals sometimes, but I have never actually seen one. Saw one on ebay twice (under hood fire, didn't sell first time). Seems like it was originally a Canadian car. Don't think we ever got them. Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 11:52:06 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <1d7.10d4a2d0.2ca06696@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Is there a simple way to check and see if it is in fact the ball joints ?? Put a pry bar between the outer CV joint and the lower control arm and pry. Try it with the car supported by the body first, then try prying up on the wheel. Be careful not to slip and tear the CV boot. It sounds like a sticking upper bearing with the sound you said it was making. Really doesn't sound like a CV though. Loren From ecodiesel1 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 22 13:40:20 2003 From: ecodiesel1 at hotmail.com (Fernando Fiore) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi Diesel ad update Message-ID: Yep, that was me! Which reminds me, I guess I should say that I am finally driving my Audi full time now. It was sitting at home while I was at school, but dad got tired of it being around so I brought it up. So, my question to Loren is... What is needed to make the Audi NA into a turbo? I know the blocks are different, with the oil squirters and all, but I think I have a cheap opportunity to make this car turbocharged. Here is what I have: Good condition 5000 TD Injection Pump Easy acess to the 5000 Gasser turbo and manifold(s) Could you or maybe the other list member buying this one in ohio (and you should DEFINITELY buy it!) tell me what turbo is used in the TD. I will probably have to get different injectors too. But, do you think it is worth it? The engine runs great, has about 200,000 + unknown miles and burns less oil than my rabbit. (maybe 1/2 Qt per 1000 miles max). This would be a summer project so I have time to acquire what I need. Any advice would be helpful. I emphasise again, BEAUTIFUL car. Fernando Fiore, "Nando" 84 VW Rabbit Diesel "GTI" 1/4= 21.249 @ 60.95mph 81 Audi 5000S Diesel 1/4= N/A >From: LBaird119@aol.com >To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com >Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Re: Audi Diesel ad update >Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 16:48:37 EDT > >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Hello Emmit.......the 1983 Audi TD is advertised in today's Plain Dealer at >$900 > > Buy it! We need another list member with one of these! :) I sure hope >to get time to finish mine. :P > Loren >_______________________________________________ >vwdiesel mailing list >vwdiesel@vwfans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel _________________________________________________________________ Share your photos without swamping your Inbox. Get Hotmail Extra Storage today! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es From rolf at ic.org Mon Sep 22 14:46:49 2003 From: rolf at ic.org (rOLf peCHUkas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] SVO? Message-ID: anybody out there running SVO (straight veggie) in a dual-tank configuration w/ biodiesel in the startup/shutdown tank? cheers, Rolf 93 EV diesel From ecodiesel1 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 22 15:50:24 2003 From: ecodiesel1 at hotmail.com (Fernando Fiore) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] New member on the list Message-ID: Hello, I recently referred a friend of mine to the list. He is looking to buy an older VW diesel, such as a rabbit/jetta/golf, for like less than a grand. He lives near me in western, NY so of course closer the better. We are looking for reliable transportation basically, so an NA 5 speed with few frills. So, hopefully he'll be posting a welcome email and asking for the same thing himself soon. PS: This all happened because he fell in love with my rabbit, and is sick of his 15 MPG's on his brand new Toyota Pickup! Fernando Fiore, "Nando" 84 VW Rabbit Diesel "GTI" 1/4= 21.249 @ 60.95mph 81 Audi 5000S Diesel 1/4= N/A _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From weasel1 at sympatico.ca Mon Sep 22 15:43:35 2003 From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (weasel) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <20030922184335.NLMG16642.tomts8-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> And Loren gets the cigar !! My passenger strut bearing is in fact stuck. I jacked up the car to see what's going on and you could literally see it binding and releasing when turning the wheel by hand. The poping sound was the noise reverberating throught the spring. So I got me two new bearings. I checked in the Bently and it shows that there is only one nut holding everything together up there for the base suspension. Is this in fact true, or did they omit a nut in the drawing ( plus suspenion shows two nuts, making bearing replacement really simple - no spring compressor is required )?? It is for an A3 Jetta, 1995. > > From: LBaird119@aol.com > Date: 2003/09/22 Mon AM 10:52:06 EST > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. > > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Is there a simple way to check and see if it is in fact the ball joints ?? > > Put a pry bar between the outer CV joint and the lower control arm and pry. > Try it with the car supported by the body first, then try prying up on the > wheel. Be careful not to slip and tear the CV boot. It sounds like a > sticking > upper bearing with the sound you said it was making. Really doesn't > sound like a CV though. > Loren > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Mon Sep 22 18:03:04 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install--anything to know? References: <20030922184335.NLMG16642.tomts8-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> Message-ID: <007d01c38144$891b41d0$d185b3cf@livingroom> Hi All, Discovered last week my block heater is open, cord seems fine. (needle probes on multimeter, but not quite to engine of it were checked) Ordered a new block heater for my 88 Jetta Turbo diesel 1.6L putt-putt. It seems to be located on the bottom back of the block, perhaps in the center-ish area. (I haven't actually laid eyes on it yet, just tracing the cord. I will install it myself if it's a pretty straight forward procedure, though I've never done one before in my life, on any car. Anything I should know? Is it relateively easy ? Caveats? Hints/tips/words of wisdom/any known chants while installing? One of these days, I really should "buy a Bentley"........ Mike in NB From salex at dsl.cis.upenn.edu Mon Sep 22 19:10:47 2003 From: salex at dsl.cis.upenn.edu (Scott Alexander) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install--anything to know? In-Reply-To: <007d01c38144$891b41d0$d185b3cf@livingroom> References: <20030922184335.NLMG16642.tomts8-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.20]> <007d01c38144$891b41d0$d185b3cf@livingroom> Message-ID: <1064268647.8961.0.camel@localhost.localdomain> And if I may expand on Mike's question slightly, what's involved in installing a block heater in a car without one? Thanks, Scott On Mon, 2003-09-22 at 16:03, Mike & Coreen Smith wrote: > Hi All, > > Discovered last week my block heater is open, cord seems fine. (needle > probes on multimeter, but not quite to engine of it were checked) > Ordered a new block heater for my 88 Jetta Turbo diesel 1.6L putt-putt. > It seems to be located on the bottom back of the block, perhaps in the > center-ish area. (I haven't actually laid eyes on it yet, just tracing the > cord. > > I will install it myself if it's a pretty straight forward procedure, though > I've never done one before in my life, on any car. > > Anything I should know? Is it relateively easy ? Caveats? Hints/tips/words > of wisdom/any known chants while installing? > > One of these days, I really should "buy a Bentley"........ > > Mike in NB > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel -- Scott Alexander From scott3491 at insightbb.com Mon Sep 22 18:52:10 2003 From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install Message-ID: <008e01c3815c$2e780de0$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> >>I will install it myself if it's a pretty straight forward procedure, though I've never done one before in my life, on any car. Anything I should know? Is it relateively easy ? Caveats? Hints/tips/words of wisdom/any known chants while installing?<< Replacing an existing unit is fairly straightforward- you don't have to knock out a core plug. Soak the screw/ nut that tensions the butterfly with penetrant, loosen, and carefully work it out, generally with pliers. Be careful not to let any retaining/ butterfly parts fall into the coolant jacket. Some coolant will drain out, so be careful of your worklight bulb, hair, head, glasses, clothes, etc. Replacement unit will tell you whether to use vaseline or food-grade waterproof grease to seal the rubber gasket. Top off the coolant; I'm not sure whether I did it through the reservoir or upper hose. Secure the cord to whatever's stable with wire ties- crawling underneath in the snow to push it back in isn't pleasant. And save the old cord if it's still good. Some of the replacements are a bit short. HTH, Scott Kair From ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca Mon Sep 22 21:23:15 2003 From: ve9aa at nbnet.nb.ca (Mike & Coreen Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install References: <008e01c3815c$2e780de0$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> Message-ID: <000701c38160$805cba30$2a87b3cf@livingroom> ..........so I don't have to drain the whole coolant/rad system then? Any idea of what kind of wrench I need to pull the old heater element out ? TIA, Mike in NB.......fall is here ! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Kair" To: Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:52 PM Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install > >>I will install it myself if it's a pretty straight forward procedure, > though > I've never done one before in my life, on any car. > > Anything I should know? Is it relateively easy ? Caveats? Hints/tips/words > of wisdom/any known chants while installing?<< > > Replacing an existing unit is fairly straightforward- you don't have to > knock out a core plug. Soak the screw/ nut that tensions the butterfly with > penetrant, loosen, and carefully work it out, generally with pliers. Be > careful not to let any retaining/ butterfly parts fall into the coolant > jacket. Some coolant will drain out, so be careful of your worklight bulb, > hair, head, glasses, clothes, etc. > Replacement unit will tell you whether to use vaseline or food-grade > waterproof grease to seal the rubber gasket. Top off the coolant; I'm not > sure whether I did it through the reservoir or upper hose. Secure the cord > to whatever's stable with wire ties- crawling underneath in the snow to push > it back in isn't pleasant. > And save the old cord if it's still good. Some of the replacements are > a bit short. > HTH, > Scott Kair > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From forrestking at juno.com Mon Sep 22 19:58:59 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Injectors --- ( more of the bubly ) Message-ID: <20030922.185900.5000.3.forrestking@juno.com> Actually Hagar, the threads ARE NOT sealing surfaces. the threads only serve to pull the injector down into the head and hold it there. the sealing surface is on the injector inserts, (i am so wound up from a helluva day at work I cannot think of their proper name right now) the little do-nut looking things that go in the head before the injector. they are usually about 95 cents each, so it might be very worth your time to pull the injector and put a new HEAT SHIELD ('bout damn time I thought of it) in there. use a good copper based anti- seize on the threads and be done with those - and when you put in new heat shields, ONLY torque to spec. The reason you are not suppposed to re-use the heat shields is because they bubble if you do. So you really have to judge if your frugality will pay off here - it probably won't in the long run - and what is 3.80 USD - not much to us Americans. (I know, 3.80 USD is like a weeks salary in Canada, but still it is worth it.) Good Luck, 73 DE KD5YQV aka Forrest On Sun, 21 Sep 2003 13:29:18 -0700 "H .Hagar" writes: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: H .Hagar > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Sent: September 21, 2003 8:57 AM > Subject: Fw: Injectors --- ( more of the bubly ) > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: H .Hagar > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Sent: September 21, 2003 8:07 AM > Subject: Injectors --- ( more of the bubly ) > > > I am willing to bet that there are few Old Volks totally without > bubbles , the way I check them. Do I have bubbles ? yes --- am > I going to do something about it --yes I am going to keep driving. > It has to do with judgment . very small bubbles drive , big > bubbles pull the injector. > > One point is very important "DO NOT" cross thread the injectors.If > you do they will never seal, The end of barrel must be square with > machined seat for heat shield. A damaged thread may be a > problem. In that case I would experiment with a sealant. White > Teflon tape ??? well the Olds injectors some of them have a Teflon > seal and some of them a copper washer. > Hagar. > PS: Use water and dish detergent and do the test on a cool > engine.And let the rest of us know. Here? #1 Bubbles and #4 > bubbles. (small). > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From forrestking at juno.com Mon Sep 22 19:52:38 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install Message-ID: <20030922.185900.5000.2.forrestking@juno.com> mike et al, My block heater is held in place by a 'butterfly' bolt - very similar to the kind you put thru dry wall and then they spring open on the other side... anyways, it is held on with a phillips head screw in the middle of the heater element. The heater element pops into the freeze plug hole on the back of the block (there are three holes, pick the one you can reach). To remove the freeze plugs on a friends car we drilled a hole in the plug with a small drill bit and then put a screw into it and pulled. Later we learned you can just tap one edge of it and the other edge will pop out of the block. you will get coolant everywhere, so if you were looking for an excuse to do a flush... this is it. Forrest On Mon, 22 Sep 2003 20:23:15 -0300 "Mike & Coreen Smith" writes: > ..........so I don't have to drain the whole coolant/rad system > then? > Any idea of what kind of wrench I need to pull the old heater > element out ? > > TIA, > Mike in NB.......fall is here ! > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Kair" > To: > Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 7:52 PM > Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install > > > > >>I will install it myself if it's a pretty straight forward > procedure, > > though > > I've never done one before in my life, on any car. > > > > Anything I should know? Is it relateively easy ? Caveats? > Hints/tips/words > > of wisdom/any known chants while installing?<< > > > > Replacing an existing unit is fairly straightforward- you > don't have > to > > knock out a core plug. Soak the screw/ nut that tensions the > butterfly > with > > penetrant, loosen, and carefully work it out, generally with > pliers. Be > > careful not to let any retaining/ butterfly parts fall into the > coolant > > jacket. Some coolant will drain out, so be careful of your > worklight > bulb, > > hair, head, glasses, clothes, etc. > > Replacement unit will tell you whether to use vaseline or > food-grade > > waterproof grease to seal the rubber gasket. Top off the coolant; > I'm not > > sure whether I did it through the reservoir or upper hose. Secure > the > cord > > to whatever's stable with wire ties- crawling underneath in the > snow to > push > > it back in isn't pleasant. > > And save the old cord if it's still good. Some of the > replacements > are > > a bit short. > > HTH, > > Scott Kair > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > om > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From forrestking at juno.com Mon Sep 22 19:47:51 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (Forrest L King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Stuck in 5th gear! Message-ID: <20030922.185900.5000.1.forrestking@juno.com> sounds like you tranny fluid is LOW. fifth gear is the physically highest gear in the tranny stack and it starves of oil first!! pretty soon it just won't be there anymore Forrest On Sun, 21 Sep 2003 21:53:31 -0400 "Lee Hillsgrove" writes: > > Hey guys...need some advice. When I leave my 1996 Passat in 5th > gear > > and come to a complete stop..it locks. I try to double clutch > very > > quickly and it is still stuck. Last couple of times I had to > kill > > it....still had trouble getting it out of 5th.....any ideas what's > up??? > > > > Does it do it only in 5th gear? Any problems getting it into gear > from a > standstill in neutral with the engine running? > > Sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging. To see if > this is the > case, start the car in neutral and step on the clutch. Wait a > moment, and > try to shift into reverse. If it grinds repeatedly, the clutch is > not > disengaging. > > If that's not it, my next guess would be motor mounts. Which does > this car > have, rods or cables between the shifter and transmission? I would > think > that a cable shifter would tend to be more tolerant of misaligned > motor > mounts than one with rods. > > > Lee > Oo-v-oO > PP-ASEL > KB1GNI > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > Forrest King forrestking@juno.com 281-534-7414 ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From geiser at execpc.com Mon Sep 22 20:58:44 2003 From: geiser at execpc.com (Mary Beth and Chris Geiser) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. In-Reply-To: <20030922144650.59273.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007901c3816d$da1e8f00$882dcfa9@MPC2002> "How do you tell if its the inner ot outter CV joint that is noisy? That stumps me. And not differential bearings going bad. --Nate" Nate, The easy way to tell is that it's almost always the outer (go with the odds)... An even easier way to deal with it is that an entire NAPA rebuilt drive shaft with lifetime warranty is $30 less than one new CV joint. So I've just replaced the shaft and never worried about which one it was. Chris From scott3491 at insightbb.com Mon Sep 22 20:53:45 2003 From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install Message-ID: <003901c3816d$2c5210e0$6401a8c0@insightbb.com> >>..........so I don't have to drain the whole coolant/rad system then? Any idea of what kind of wrench I need to pull the old heater element out ?<< It isn't absolutely necessary to drain the system, but as Forrest pointed out, it does present the opportunity. He was also a bit more clear than I was- sometimes they just pop right out, in which case it gushes. Once you get the butterfly loosened, you shouldn't need more than a pair of pliers or channel-locks to work out the old unit. Which one will depend on accessibility and clearances. The butterfly retainer varies by manufacturer, so it might be a hex nut or a screw. Be careful if it's one of those hermaphroditic screws that's part standard and part Phillips. The heads strip easily. It will become more clear once you have the replacement in hand and look it over, and once you crawl under and see what the old one looks like. HTH, Scott Kair From koldrid at uvm.edu Mon Sep 22 22:43:43 2003 From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] SVO? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1064281423.3f6fa54fae476@webmail.uvm.edu> Yes, I am running this setup in my 97 passat TDI. Several friends are doing similar with TDI's up here in VT. We will cut the biodiesel down to %20 once winter hits. So you have a 93 diesel eurovan? Are you the person who bought it in Canadan and transferred it to the US? I have been installing SVO systems in various diesels (mostly VW's) all over New England. Are you making your own system? I would love to check out your EV. Do you live in the Boston area? Ken > anybody out there running SVO (straight veggie) in a dual-tank configuration > w/ biodiesel in the startup/shutdown tank? > cheers, > Rolf > 93 EV diesel > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > -- From FJ40Jim at aol.com Mon Sep 22 23:21:03 2003 From: FJ40Jim at aol.com (FJ40Jim@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] (no subject) Message-ID: <7E3EFC9F.799A46D4.0014D7E0@aol.com> I know 5K diesels were brought in earlier, but my question is were there any typ44 (83-88) Audi 5K with the diesel in the USA? I have driven a few of the Typ43, 77-83 boxy but good 5K. I know the typ81, 80-84 4K had a diesel option, my brother owned one for a while. I own a typ85, 86 4KQ and the owner's manual and dealer literature of the time makes no reference to diesel power. When was the last model year for any real importation of Audi diesels into the US? Wait, I just did some quick research, looks like the old 5K was available w/ NA diesel from 79-81, and TurboD for 82-83. Apparently the new typ44 body was never certified w/ diesel in the US. Bummer, 'cause those are nice highway cruising cars. The typ81 was only available w/ NA Dasher diesel power in 82-83. Glad we got that cleared up, now back to the regular VW programming ;^) In a message dated 9/22/2003, Doyt@NWOnline.Net writes: > I have seen and driven both the 4000 and 5000 Audi diesels in the USA. The > 5000 also was available with a turbcharged diesel. > Doyt > >>>>>>>>>>>>>> > At 08:19 AM 9/22/2003 -0400, you wrote: > >Hey DeezlDubbers, > >Out of curiosity, did Audi ever sell the "modern" 83-88 5000 in the US w/ > >a diesel engine? It is listed in service manuals > sometimes, but I have never actually seen one. Thanks, Jim Chenoweth Lancaster Ohio, USA From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca Mon Sep 22 22:23:56 2003 From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. In-Reply-To: <007901c3816d$da1e8f00$882dcfa9@MPC2002> References: <20030922144650.59273.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3F6F686C.29561.77809DF@localhost> On 22 Sep 2003 at 19:58, Mary Beth and Chris Geiser wrote: > "How do you tell if its the inner ot outter CV joint > that is noisy? That stumps me. And not differential > bearings going bad. > --Nate" > > Nate, The easy way to tell is that it's almost always the outer (go with > the odds)... An even easier way to deal with it is that an entire NAPA > rebuilt drive shaft with lifetime warranty is $30 less than one new CV > joint. So I've just replaced the shaft and never worried about which > one it was. It's been a while since I've had one go, but the outer will make noise when turning, while the inner make noise upon accelerating/decelerating if I recall. Only ever had one inner make noise, and even then it likely would've been ok after repacking. At 480k kms, my '85 still has one original inner joint. The outers went from 300-350k each, and the other inner probably would have been fine, but I replaced it not knowing any better. Even one of the outers was not that bad, and may have gone another 100k or more if I swapped sides, but it's not worth effort. I must admit, swapping a whole rebuilt axle has its appeal, but they're not that cheap around here... (nearly $200 vs. $75 for a new Lobro CV). With winter approaching, check all your boots- catching them early may mean the difference between a new boot and new CV... -- Shawn Wright http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright '88 Westy 375k '85 Jetta D 263k '85 Jetta TD 482k (retired) ~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~ "Friends don't let friends use Outlook" From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 23 11:56:43 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Block heater install--anything to know? Message-ID: <1db.114344eb.2ca1b92b@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Two biggest hassles are in removing the plug. First, the screw is shorter than is required for removing the heater by force, to push the butterfly back in. This means if you back it off enough then you'll drop the expander into the block, most likely. It's usually nonferrous so no retrieving it with a magnet. :( Hopefully YMMV. The other is the plug gets nice and loose but takes a fair amount of force to pop it free of the rust ring ahead of the O-ring. Once you pop it loose you can use a good light and a screwdriver to push in the wings of the butterfly. Yes it's best to drain the coolant first. You can change rad temp sensors without draining but I wouldn't try doing a block heater! Best way to drain is to pull the right end loose (as you're staring down it it orientation) of the small, straight hose from the water pump to the heater pipe. Refill through the upper hose, into the engine. Use a little emory cloth or wet dry sandpaper on the plug hole before lubing and inserting the new heater. Loren From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 23 12:20:46 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <6d.19764e05.2ca1bece@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] "How do you tell if its the inner ot outter CV joint that is noisy? That stumps me. And not differential bearings going bad. --Nate" Turn a sharp corner. Outers almost always go clack-clack-clack. I'd expect inners and diff bearings to make similar sounds. Diffs would tend to make the R&P whine a little. CV's should rumble more than growl, like the diff bearins would also. Then there's worn splines on the flanges! ;-) Loren From ethan at forward.ca Tue Sep 23 19:07:23 2003 From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <01C381FD.8A439620.ethan@forward.ca> CV's click. If you get a click turning left it's probably the right axle and vice versa. The VW inners can be real bad. If you want a real inexpensive trick to make the noise go away, let me know, although for the price of a good rebuilt unit it's probably not worth it. Just replace the axle. Ethan -----Original Message----- From: LBaird119@aol.com [SMTP:LBaird119@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2003 11:21 AM To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] "How do you tell if its the inner ot outter CV joint that is noisy? That stumps me. And not differential bearings going bad. --Nate" Turn a sharp corner. Outers almost always go clack-clack-clack. I'd expect inners and diff bearings to make similar sounds. Diffs would tend to make the R&P whine a little. CV's should rumble more than growl, like the diff bearins would also. Then there's worn splines on the flanges! ;-) Loren _______________________________________________ vwdiesel mailing list vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel From laplante at mac.com Tue Sep 23 21:10:54 2003 From: laplante at mac.com (Mark Laplante) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed 82 Rabbit 1.6 NA Message-ID: <4784141.1064365854259.JavaMail.laplante@mac.com> I am sure this has come up before -- I looked through the archives for 2003 and didn't find anything recent other than a snail-like Rabbit and some discussions of top speeds with a turbo. I just put on some new tires (175/70/13) and now I can go over 65 mph without vibration. I top out at 72 mph indicated on level ground. The only smoke I ever see is a little bit of white smoke at startup. No black smoke visible in the rearview at full throttle. Letting off the throttle a hair didn't seem to cause an immediate slow down -- maybe I am just wasting fuel holding it to the floor? I get somewhere in the mid to upper 40s for mileage. Transmission is 4-speed manual (3+E) -- don't know the code. Should I be able to get much faster than 72 mph on flatland? (On short downhills I can get to 75 mph). I plan to get out my handheld GPS to see if it differs much from the speedo (after converting knots to mph). Test runs conducted with driver's window all the way down. Top speed did not seem to be affected by adding an adult and child passengers. Funny thing is I still have trouble with SUVs and cell-phone occupied drivers not accelerating fast enough for me. Thanks, Mark From weasel1 at sympatico.ca Tue Sep 23 20:04:00 2003 From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (weasel) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Re: Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. Message-ID: <20030923230400.PPPQ27603.tomts5-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.18]> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- Well as you an others have pointed out ( and I discovered for myself this m= orning ) The strut has to be removed to change the bearings ( and making an= alignment pratically manditory ) It will not drop far enough so that I ca= n compress the spring while leaving the strut attached at the control arm. = So I will have to do the bearings another time. There just isn't enough t= ime to do this, go to work tomorrow and get married on the weekend !! I di= d rotate the front tires though, that should help a little 'till I get back= from the honeymoon .. > > From: LBaird119@aol.com > Date: 2003/09/23 Tue AM 10:45:06 EST > To: weasel1@sympatico.ca > Subject: Re: Help ! Do I need upper strut bearings ?? a bit long .. > > And Loren gets the cigar !! > > Hee, hee. My 5000 does it. I sort of cheated. ;-) > All the earlier ones only use one nut and you do need a spring compress= or > on them. The suspension doesn't travel far enough to do it without. ;( > Loren > > -- [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] And Loren gets the cigar !! Hee, hee. My 5000 does it. I sort of cheated. ;-) All the earlier ones only use one nut and you do need a spring compressor on them. The suspension doesn't travel far enough to do it without. ;( Loren -- From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Tue Sep 23 22:51:24 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed 82 Rabbit 1.6 NA References: <4784141.1064365854259.JavaMail.laplante@mac.com> Message-ID: <006801c3823e$6027a520$6600a8c0@lee> Sounds like you should be able to get a little more speed than that. If it isn't smoking a little, just a haze at full throttle, you could probably afford to turn up the fueling a tiny bit at a time until you get just a faint haze. No smoke - not up to full power. Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 23 23:28:17 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed 82 Rabbit 1.6 NA Message-ID: <7f.3cc911b0.2ca25b41@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Sounds like you should be able to get a little more speed than that. If it isn't smoking a little, just a haze at full throttle, you could probably afford to turn up the fueling a tiny bit at a time until you get just a faint haze. No smoke - not up to full power. Of course check the throttle cable to pedal bushing and then for slack on the throttle cable. In other words make sure you get full throttle when you have it floored. Of course floor mats, carpet and kid's toys can get under the throttle pedal as well. ;-) Loren From val at swamps.roc.ny.us Wed Sep 24 02:43:45 2003 From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment In-Reply-To: <20030923230400.PPPQ27603.tomts5-srv.bellnexxia.net@[209.226.175.18]> from "weasel" at Sep 23, 2003 07:04:00 PM Message-ID: <200309240543.BAA30000@swamps.roc.ny.us> > Well as you an others have pointed out ( and I discovered for myself this m= > orning ) The strut has to be removed to change the bearings ( and making an= > alignment pratically manditory ) It will not drop far enough so that I ca= > n compress the spring while leaving the strut attached at the control arm. = I tried this a couple of months ago, on my A2, and it worked: -remove tierod for steering -loosen ball joint retaining nut and remove retaining bolt -remove CV joint nut -drop strut down through tower Alignment was just fine afterwards. There were a couple of problems: -ball joint didn't want to come out of knuckle. Lots of persuasion. Using a drag link socket, and a hammer, allowed me to spread the knuckle. -loosening things on a 12 or 13 yo western ny car took more time than it probably would have taken me to set the front end up right again. I think I'd do it the same way next time, though. Good luck. Val From natewall1 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 24 06:50:26 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment In-Reply-To: <200309240543.BAA30000@swamps.roc.ny.us> Message-ID: <20030924125026.44484.qmail@web80704.mail.yahoo.com> I tell you I stopped into one of those tire places (NTB) and asked, "How much to replace the struts and strut bearings in my '85 VW Jetta" and they said $475.00! (I do not think that included the alignment). So I bought the tools and planned on renting a spring compressor to do it myself, but happened accross a set of front strut units w/ springs and new bearings, complete and assembled, off an '89 jetta that the engine seized up w/ 2,000 miles on the struts AND new rear shocks were thrown in too (KYBs). I got these for $150.00 and just swapped them out! and paid $50 for an alignment. One of the better e-Bay deals I got! --Nate --- Val Christian wrote: > > Well as you an others have pointed out ( and I > discovered for myself this m= > > orning ) The strut has to be removed to change the > bearings ( and making an= > > alignment pratically manditory ) It will not > drop far enough so that I ca= > > n compress the spring while leaving the strut > attached at the control arm. = > > > > I tried this a couple of months ago, on my A2, and > it worked: > > -remove tierod for steering > -loosen ball joint retaining nut and remove > retaining bolt > -remove CV joint nut > -drop strut down through tower > > Alignment was just fine afterwards. There were a > couple of problems: > > -ball joint didn't want to come out of knuckle. > Lots of persuasion. > Using a drag link socket, and a hammer, allowed me > to spread the knuckle. > -loosening things on a 12 or 13 yo western ny car > took more time than > it probably would have taken me to set the front > end up right again. > > I think I'd do it the same way next time, though. > > Good luck. > > Val > > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From jhsg at sasktel.net Wed Sep 24 11:07:20 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment In-Reply-To: <20030924125026.44484.qmail@web80704.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: cool deal Nate. Can't you just use a spring compressor and shrink the spring enough with the car on jackstands to R&R the bearings? I know when I have had mine out to do the struts, I was only out a fine hair after cleaning and marking everything well enough to do the reassembly as close to the way it was as possible. I never really paid any attention to whether or not you could do the bearings without dropping the strut off.... Even so, it should be possible to get it all back the way it was with enough center punch marks and wire brush things clean, give a light coat of contrasting fresh paint so you have paint shadows to reassemble to. -James > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of Nate Wall > Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 6:50 AM > To: Val Christian; weasel > Cc: vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment > > > I tell you I stopped into one of those tire places > (NTB) and asked, "How much to replace the struts and > strut bearings in my '85 VW Jetta" and they said > $475.00! (I do not think that included the alignment). > So I bought the tools and planned on renting a spring > compressor to do it myself, but happened accross a set > of front strut units w/ springs and new bearings, > complete and assembled, off an '89 jetta that the > engine seized up w/ 2,000 miles on the struts AND new > rear shocks were thrown in too (KYBs). I got these for > $150.00 and just swapped them out! and paid $50 for an > alignment. One of the better e-Bay deals I got! > > --Nate > --- Val Christian wrote: > > > Well as you an others have pointed out ( and I > > discovered for myself this m= > > > orning ) The strut has to be removed to change the > > bearings ( and making an= > > > alignment pratically manditory ) It will not > > drop far enough so that I ca= > > > n compress the spring while leaving the strut > > attached at the control arm. = > > > > > > > > I tried this a couple of months ago, on my A2, and > > it worked: > > > > -remove tierod for steering > > -loosen ball joint retaining nut and remove > > retaining bolt > > -remove CV joint nut > > -drop strut down through tower > > > > Alignment was just fine afterwards. There were a > > couple of problems: > > > > -ball joint didn't want to come out of knuckle. > > Lots of persuasion. > > Using a drag link socket, and a hammer, allowed me > > to spread the knuckle. > > -loosening things on a 12 or 13 yo western ny car > > took more time than > > it probably would have taken me to set the front > > end up right again. > > > > I think I'd do it the same way next time, though. > > > > Good luck. > > > > Val > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 24 10:28:27 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA. ( I have an answer for you ) Message-ID: <002201c382b9$395d91e0$92ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] My mail is giving troubles so I may have to send this twice (this is try # 1) Hagar. -- From dieseltdi at earthlink.net Wed Sep 24 13:18:24 2003 From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment References: Message-ID: <000b01c382bf$dfd309a0$11c9060a@ALL.DISTTCCD.NET> I have changed the strut bearing on my A3 Jetta and an A2 Jetta without removing them from the car. It takes some work to get the spring compressors in there but it can be done. The hard part is being able to push down far enough on the A-frame to get the bearing clear from the car body to remove it and replace it with the new one. I discovered with my Pickup that, unlike my A2&3, there really is only one nut holding everything together. First time I started to replace the struts, I shot the whole thing half way across the yard. Hayden ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Hansen" To: "Vwdiesel" Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 11:07 AM Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment > cool deal Nate. > > Can't you just use a spring compressor and shrink the spring enough with the > car on jackstands to R&R the bearings? > I know when I have had mine out to do the struts, I was only out a fine hair > after cleaning and marking everything well enough to do the reassembly as > close to the way it was as possible. I never really paid any attention to > whether or not you could do the bearings without dropping the strut off.... > Even so, it should be possible to get it all back the way it was with enough > center punch marks and wire brush things clean, give a light coat of > contrasting fresh paint so you have paint shadows to reassemble to. > -James > esel From h_hagar at prcn.org Wed Sep 24 13:19:53 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA ---( here is hagars take on it ) Message-ID: <000c01c382d1$00c397e0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Firstly take the time and read a bit in archives 2002. If there is a f= lat spot in the power at or before full pedal it indicates lack of fuel. = There are two possibilities Fueling screw set too low or there is a fu= el restriction somewhere.(Say screen in tank or fuel filter). The transmiss= ion number is easy to read -- look at bottom of bellhousing. If you have = a GL xxxxx it should go a lot faster.Mine goes way faster than 72 MPH. Do= test with window closed. Now if you have a GC xxxxx tranny then expect it = to be slower. First turn the fueling screw in a 1/4 turn and let us know= it should belch black smoke at full power.Then you can fine tune it by tur= ning it out in very small moves. Mine went so fast that I was worrie= d about tickets the limit was 120 Km/h it went a lot faster than th= at its a 1982 Rabbit 1.6L NA with 300 000 Km on clock. Pleas= e give us more details like what kind of fuel and how much on the clock. = Hagar. -- From jhsg at sasktel.net Wed Sep 24 15:16:00 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment In-Reply-To: <000b01c382bf$dfd309a0$11c9060a@ALL.DISTTCCD.NET> Message-ID: > > I have changed the strut bearing on my A3 Jetta and an A2 Jetta without > removing them from the car. It takes some work to get the spring > compressors in there but it can be done. The hard part is being able to > push down far enough on the A-frame to get the bearing clear from the car > body to remove it and replace it with the new one. Yeah, I thought so. Third hand would work well. I discovered with my > Pickup that, unlike my A2&3, there really is only one nut holding > everything > together. First time I started to replace the struts, I shot the whole > thing half way across the yard. Hayden LOL! yeah, me too. Popped a fluorescent fixture when it bounced off some crap on the floor. I was awake after that. Been meaning to ask you Hayden, you've had a tdi Golf or two, right? What years are the best from the home mechanic aspect, still 97 to 99-1/2 like the Passats? I'm passively looking for a nice one to replace the tired Jetta td wundercar. (540+k on orig engine) Wouldn't mind massaging it for 1/8 mile track (a local event) and show the gas boys a trick or three just for a hoot, but no, no wings, fart cans, stickers, or ground effects. -James > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James Hansen" > To: "Vwdiesel" > Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 11:07 AM > Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment > > > > cool deal Nate. > > > > Can't you just use a spring compressor and shrink the spring enough with > the > > car on jackstands to R&R the bearings? > > I know when I have had mine out to do the struts, I was only out a fine > hair > > after cleaning and marking everything well enough to do the > reassembly as > > close to the way it was as possible. I never really paid any > attention to > > whether or not you could do the bearings without dropping the strut > off.... > > Even so, it should be possible to get it all back the way it was with > enough > > center punch marks and wire brush things clean, give a light coat of > > contrasting fresh paint so you have paint shadows to reassemble to. > > -James > > > esel > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From natewall1 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 24 14:31:16 2003 From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA ---( here is hagars take on it ) In-Reply-To: <000c01c382d1$00c397e0$1da8fea9@prcn.org> Message-ID: <20030924203116.32578.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Well, the owner's manual for my 1985 Jetta lists the top speeds: 90 MPH NA diesel Jetta 98 MPH TD Jetta. YMMV --Nate --- "H .Hagar" wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Firstly take the time and read a bit in archives > 2002. If there is a flat spot in the power at > or before full pedal it indicates lack of fuel. > There are two possibilities Fueling screw set too > low or there is a fuel restriction somewhere.(Say > screen in tank or fuel filter). The transmission > number is easy to read -- look at bottom of > bellhousing. If you have a GL xxxxx it should go a > lot faster.Mine goes way faster than 72 MPH. Do > test with window closed. Now if you have a GC xxxxx > tranny then expect it to be slower. First turn the > fueling screw in a 1/4 turn and let us know it > should belch black smoke at full power.Then you can > fine tune it by turning it out in very small moves. > Mine went so fast that I was worried about > tickets the limit was 120 Km/h it went a lot > faster than that its a 1982 Rabbit 1.6L NA with > 300 000 Km on clock. Please give us more > details like what kind of fuel and how much on the > clock. Hagar. > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From koldrid at uvm.edu Wed Sep 24 20:33:48 2003 From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA ---( here is hagars take on it ) In-Reply-To: <20030924203116.32578.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> References: <20030924203116.32578.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1064446428.3f7229dcb359c@webmail.uvm.edu> Hmm, my 2 86 n/a (jetta and golf) both hit 100mph. I would have went a little more if they didn't feel like they were going to vibrate into a million pieces. My TDI on the other hand, is yawning at 100. Ken > Well, the owner's manual for my 1985 Jetta lists the > top speeds: > > 90 MPH NA diesel Jetta > 98 MPH TD Jetta. > > YMMV > > --Nate > --- "H .Hagar" wrote: > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > -- > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > Firstly take the time and read a bit in archives > > 2002. If there is a flat spot in the power at > > or before full pedal it indicates lack of fuel. > > There are two possibilities Fueling screw set too > > low or there is a fuel restriction somewhere.(Say > > screen in tank or fuel filter). The transmission > > number is easy to read -- look at bottom of > > bellhousing. If you have a GL xxxxx it should go a > > lot faster.Mine goes way faster than 72 MPH. Do > > test with window closed. Now if you have a GC xxxxx > > tranny then expect it to be slower. First turn the > > fueling screw in a 1/4 turn and let us know it > > should belch black smoke at full power.Then you can > > fine tune it by turning it out in very small moves. > > Mine went so fast that I was worried about > > tickets the limit was 120 Km/h it went a lot > > faster than that its a 1982 Rabbit 1.6L NA with > > 300 000 Km on clock. Please give us more > > details like what kind of fuel and how much on the > > clock. Hagar. > > -- > > > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > -- From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Wed Sep 24 21:06:06 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment References: Message-ID: <008901c382f8$d2c482a0$6600a8c0@lee> > Been meaning to ask you Hayden, you've had a tdi Golf or two, right? > What years are the best from the home mechanic aspect, still 97 to 99-1/2 > like the Passats? I'll jump in with a comment or two, as an owner of a '98 Jetta TDI. For those of us who are most comfortable with the older IDI diesels, the A3 or B4 TDI chassis is a good step up. They lack some of the gee-whiz stuff that the A4 TDIs have, like the VNT turbo and recodable instrument clusters, and are arguably the most reliable of the TDIs we have available to us here in North America. A4s are plagued with MAF sensor failures as well as a higher rate of turbos grenading, especially with the combination of performance modifications and higher altitudes. The VNTs are on the ragged edge of surge in a stock configuration up high, and increased boost will drive them over if the operator is not aware of the situation and tries to floor it at 1500 rpm. Snapped turbo shafts are the result. I would consider a computer running Vag-Com to be a mandatory tool for the home mechanic. You wouldn't believe the stuff you can do with it, and it is required to change the timing belt. Speaking of that, it's an easier job on an A3 or B4 as well due in part to the way the engine is mounted. The A4s have a mount in the way, so you have to support the engine while disengaging the mount, or the engine will fall out. It's held on by stretch bolts, too, so don't reuse them. They've been known to let go if not replaced and deposit the engine on the ground, or darn near. About that oil pan - on an A4 it's thin cast aluminum, so don't jack under it, even to support the motor. A3/B4 use a stamped-steel pan. Seems that the A4s hang a little lower, and wipe out the oil pan with even casual contact with road debris unless you install a steel skidplate in place of the plastic cover down there. A4s use a dual-mass flywheel mated to a clutch that is not as strong as the older ones. Of course, mine, which is chipped and has 2 1/2" exhaust, slips in colder weather, but I don't know how the PO treated it. At least I only need to put in the VR6 clutch disk and pressure plate to upgrade it. A4s require ditching that dual-mass flywheel, too. That said, I wouldn't be afraid to own an A4, and probably will someday. It just seems that as with almost anything, the older models without all the bells and whistles are just easier to work on in general. Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From jhsg at sasktel.net Wed Sep 24 23:57:41 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Strut service w/o alignment In-Reply-To: <20030924204057.36621.qmail@web80709.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks for the input Hayden, Lee, Nate. I too like the simplicity of the A3 platform, but I have had a laptop with vag-com installed for four years now, since we bought the 97 Passat. I just feel the tdi has more potential for a sleeper car over a 1.9td, but any opinions as compared to the post 2000MY vs the 1Z engine? I'm thinking Golf, as we have the Passat for hauling kids etc. I would like to find a younger one this time, and get to be the one that wears out the middle half. Hayden, you say the 1Z responds well to a chip, how about the newer one? Wife won't let me chip the Passat, as she doesn't want it screwed up, it's too good as it is. I would get either another 97 Passat is possible or a nice golf, but was wondering about the A4 platform tdi for the golf. I know about the stupid motor mount/ timing belt issue. My 89 Jetta is in Kms, so that's only 339,375 miles, but yeah, on original rings, valves etc. The only thing that's ever been apart is the valve cover to time it, other than the usual suspects, water pump, alt, clutch. Allow the usual 5% over on Volks odometers, that's still pretty good for a 4 cylinder that revs high. I know the PO, he used Rotella T, as do I. Wix oil filters, or OEM (I get them shop cost now). Well, once I tried a fram air filter on it, but it didn't work at all- leaked dust like a sieve. I use a K& N now. Oil usage is still less than 1 litre between 10000km changes. Go figure. My 97 John Deere CTS combine uses 3 litres per DAY at 2000 engine hours, that's like changing the oil every 8 days or so. Dealer trys to tell me that that's normal... yeah right. Scrapping with the stealer over that one right now. -James --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From jhsg at sasktel.net Thu Sep 25 00:05:55 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA ---( here is hagars take on it ) In-Reply-To: <1064446428.3f7229dcb359c@webmail.uvm.edu> Message-ID: yes, my 89 Jetta still hits 165 kph, but you should allow some for odometer inaccuracies. At 165, gps shows I'm only at 158. that's 103mph indicated, 98mph actual. Throttle cable grommets, and the actual cable adjustment of full throttle so the pump sees full throttle, not just the floor mat is important. -James > -----Original Message----- > From: vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-admin@vwfans.com]On > Behalf Of Kenneth E. Oldrid > Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 5:34 PM > To: Nate Wall > Cc: H .Hagar; vwdiesel@vwfans.com > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA ---( here is > hagars take on it ) > > > Hmm, > my 2 86 n/a (jetta and golf) both hit 100mph. I would have went a > little more if > they didn't feel like they were going to vibrate into a million pieces. > My TDI on the other hand, is yawning at 100. > > Ken > > > Well, the owner's manual for my 1985 Jetta lists the > > top speeds: > > > > 90 MPH NA diesel Jetta > > 98 MPH TD Jetta. > > > > YMMV > > > > --Nate > > --- "H .Hagar" wrote: > > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > > -- > > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > Firstly take the time and read a bit in archives > > > 2002. If there is a flat spot in the power at > > > or before full pedal it indicates lack of fuel. > > > There are two possibilities Fueling screw set too > > > low or there is a fuel restriction somewhere.(Say > > > screen in tank or fuel filter). The transmission > > > number is easy to read -- look at bottom of > > > bellhousing. If you have a GL xxxxx it should go a > > > lot faster.Mine goes way faster than 72 MPH. Do > > > test with window closed. Now if you have a GC xxxxx > > > tranny then expect it to be slower. First turn the > > > fueling screw in a 1/4 turn and let us know it > > > should belch black smoke at full power.Then you can > > > fine tune it by turning it out in very small moves. > > > Mine went so fast that I was worried about > > > tickets the limit was 120 Km/h it went a lot > > > faster than that its a 1982 Rabbit 1.6L NA with > > > 300 000 Km on clock. Please give us more > > > details like what kind of fuel and how much on the > > > clock. Hagar. > > > -- > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > vwdiesel mailing list > > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > > __________________________________ > > Do you Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > vwdiesel mailing list > > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > > > > > -- > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From jhsg at sasktel.net Thu Sep 25 00:46:02 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] etka Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34234&item =2434098101 Someone wants to get in copywrite trouble, but if you need, it's a fairly recent copy (2001). Not mine etc... -J --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From jhsg at sasktel.net Thu Sep 25 00:56:12 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Passat Message-ID: Anyone near Eastern Pansylvania that would look at a car for me? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2434257743&cat egory=6020 Dash cluster hooped, but looks nice, and as Bob says "the price is right". -James --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From turbobrick at hotmail.com Thu Sep 25 16:59:29 2003 From: turbobrick at hotmail.com (Jeff Rakus) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bio fuel hose Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hi, What types of hose are compatable with B-20 or higher & straight dino. What are the pressure / temperature requirements for the hose's for the return lines and input lines for the injector pump? TIA, Jeff From laplante at mac.com Thu Sep 25 20:27:32 2003 From: laplante at mac.com (Mark Laplante) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA Message-ID: <7659991.1064536052303.JavaMail.laplante@mac.com> I thought I might be lucky enough to get a response from Hagar. I guess I didn't go back in the archives quite far enough, but I'll go do that. Thanks to others for your suggestions as well. Looks like I may try to play with the fueling screw to activate the 007 feature. I was able to pass 75 mph the other day after a slight downhill (like an overpass). Going back on the uphill side slows to around 70 mph though. Top speed seems very grade dependent. I will check the throttle travel. There is an aftermarket (Dana Corp, Toledo, OH) cruise system installed which I plan to remove -- it's possible it is restricting the movement of the throttle cable. It was non-functional when I got the car and I clipped the wires to the control unit on the dash, but they could be repaired. When I get it out, I'll send the parts to anyone who wants to play with them (that includes control module, wiring harness, sender from brake pedal, vacuum pump (I think)... might need to post some pictures for help in determining what is stock and what can be removed -- stay tuned. Photo of the underdash control module here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=851037) Car has 116K miles and counting. I can only trust that the PO was honest about the odometer -- seems about right based on Carfax registration info. Just had the following changed: timing belt (old one had unknown mileage), water pump, front and right side motor mounts, fuel filter, air filter, replaced a leaky oil seal (forget which one at the moment), valve cover gasket and added the oil splash shield under the valve cover. This was all done by an independent VW/Audi shop with a good reputation. They also adjusted the valve clearance (I think that is what it is called -- the process where you use shims). Flooring the accelerator does extinguish the upshift light, but that may have no relationship to the throttle setting -- not sure. Glow plugs seem OK (but it's summer so hard to tell). After the dash light goes out, the car starts immediately. It's been started down to about 50F -- the colder it is, the longer it takes the white smoke to go away, but usually all gone within 10-20 seconds. I usually apply a little throttle to smooth out the idle and help get rid of the smoke -- sometimes I'm told to upshift -- doesn't seem quite right, but whatever. Tell me if anything I'm doing sounds bad. I had an 81 Rabbit in college about a decade ago. Traded it in for a 95 Jetta (gasser) when it had problems with the fuel pump losing prime (I think) and a leaky fuel tank. Hard to say -- might have been a glow plug problem. I was young and dumb and lived in the city in Philly, parking on the street where I could not plug in the block heater and it just got to the point it would not start. In retrospect, I should have tried to fix it. I seem to remember it having more power, higher top speed than the current one, but I'm not certain. I won't get a chance to experiment until Saturday. Thanks for all the advice. Great list! Mark >From: "H .Hagar" >To: >Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 12:19:53 -0700 >Subject: [Vwdiesel] top speed for 82 Rabbit 1.6L NA ---( here is hagars take on it ) > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Firstly take the time and read a bit in archives 2002. If there is a f= >lat spot in the power at or before full pedal it indicates lack of fuel. = > There are two possibilities Fueling screw set too low or there is a fu= >el restriction somewhere.(Say screen in tank or fuel filter). The transmiss= >ion number is easy to read -- look at bottom of bellhousing. If you have = >a GL xxxxx it should go a lot faster.Mine goes way faster than 72 MPH. Do= > test with window closed. Now if you have a GC xxxxx tranny then expect it = >to be slower. First turn the fueling screw in a 1/4 turn and let us know= > it should belch black smoke at full power.Then you can fine tune it by tur= >ning it out in very small moves. Mine went so fast that I was worrie= >d about tickets the limit was 120 Km/h it went a lot faster than th= >at its a 1982 Rabbit 1.6L NA with 300 000 Km on clock. Pleas= >e give us more details like what kind of fuel and how much on the clock. = > Hagar. >-- > > From turbobrick at hotmail.com Sat Sep 27 02:48:33 2003 From: turbobrick at hotmail.com (Jeff Rakus) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] B20/Fuel hose Message-ID: Hello all, Has any one used flexible PVC hose that is reinforced with mesh for B20? The normal black braided hose that was on there (the return line) started to leak when I was using B20. I have found 1/4" id pvc hose at Lowe's that is made for food service use and thought that it would be resistant to the veggie oil better. Does any one have thoughts on this type of hose especially regarding chemical resistance thermal resistance and resistance to dino.. TIA Jeff _________________________________________________________________ Instant message in style with MSN Messenger 6.0. Download it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com From h_hagar at prcn.org Fri Sep 26 20:08:06 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] One more test of mail. Message-ID: <000c01c3849c$4de00f00$b0ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Testing # 26. Hagar. -- From LBaird119 at aol.com Sat Sep 27 03:26:33 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] B20/Fuel hose Message-ID: <5b.3ef9cd64.2ca68799@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] How about 2cycle engine type fuel line? A fellow former, dieselhead from CA was over yesterday and mentioned that was what he used for his Eco TD's injector return lines. Loren From jhsg at sasktel.net Sat Sep 27 02:30:18 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] diesel trucks on the move Message-ID: Check this mpeg out from Houston racetrack. It's 3491kb, so if you're on dialup like me, be forewarned. It's too cool to not download. This is diesel baby. Yeah! http://www.theclashofthetitans.com/images/videos/vids/Diesel1.mpg --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From jhsg at sasktel.net Sat Sep 27 02:54:48 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] [Audi-VW-Diesels] diesel trucks on the move Message-ID: Check this mpeg out from Houston racetrack. It's 3491kb, so if you're on dialup like me, be forewarned. It's too cool to not download. This is diesel baby. Yeah! http://www.theclashofthetitans.com/images/videos/vids/Diesel1.mpg --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.518 / Virus Database: 316 - Release Date: 09/11/2003 From mhitchings at yahoo.com Sun Sep 28 21:21:49 2003 From: mhitchings at yahoo.com (Michael Hitchings) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] FS: 5-speed (code GL 12031 020) 90mm Tranny $100 obo Message-ID: <004a01c3861f$b02be240$07552144@HITCHINGSMRLAP> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have a code GL 12031 5-speed tranny for sale Information: Code 020 Axle flange - 90 mm $100 obo Plenty of pics at: http://www28.brinkster.com/mikeyworks/trannyforsale/GL12031.htm I would prefer a sale in the Baltimore area, to save on shipping (buyer pays), but if you really want it and are out of the area, let me know and we can arrange something. Mikey "Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas" [Happiness is understanding how things work] -- From mhitchings at yahoo.com Sun Sep 28 22:19:30 2003 From: mhitchings at yahoo.com (Michael Hitchings) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: FS: 5-speed (code GL 12031 020) 90mm Tranny $100 obo Message-ID: <005901c38627$bbc91570$07552144@HITCHINGSMRLAP> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Correction..the GL code tranny is a 4 speed NOT a 5 speed I will be cleaning up the FF code tranny in the next few days and that IS a 5 speed!!! Same cost/info/everything applies though "Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas" [Happiness is understanding how things work] -----Original Message----- From: Michael Hitchings [mailto:mhitchings@yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 8:22 PM To: Audi-VW-Diesels@yahoogroups.com; vwdiesel@vwfans.com Subject: FS: 5-speed (code GL 12031 020) 90mm Tranny $100 obo I have a code GL 12031 5-speed tranny for sale Information: Code 020 Axle flange - 90 mm $100 obo Plenty of pics at: http://www28.brinkster.com/mikeyworks/trannyforsale/GL12031.htm I would prefer a sale in the Baltimore area, to save on shipping (buyer pays), but if you really want it and are out of the area, let me know and we can arrange something. Mikey "Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas" [Happiness is understanding how things work] -- From r.c.brown at ieee.org Sun Sep 28 19:19:02 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: [Audi-VW-Diesels] FS: 5-speed (code GL 12031 020) 90mm Tranny $100 obo References: <004a01c3861f$b02be240$07552144@HITCHINGSMRLAP> Message-ID: <3F778886.C508C51B@ieee.org> Michael Hitchings wrote: > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I have a code GL 12031 5-speed tranny for sale > > Information: > Code 020 > Axle flange - 90 mm > > $100 obo > Plenty of pics at: > > http://www28.brinkster.com/mikeyworks/trannyforsale/GL12031.htm > > I would prefer a sale in the Baltimore area, to save on shipping (buyer > pays), but if you really want it and are out of the area, let me know > and we can arrange something. FYI, a GL code tranny as a 4-speed, not a 5-speed: http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/Diesel/VW_020_transmission.shtml -- Roger From hillsgrove at adelphia.net Sun Sep 28 23:39:23 2003 From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: [Audi-VW-Diesels] RE: FS: 5-speed (code GL 12031 020) 90mm Tranny $100 obo References: <005901c38627$bbc91570$07552144@HITCHINGSMRLAP> Message-ID: <009601c38632$e96e1ba0$6600a8c0@lee> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Hitchings" > "Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas" > [Happiness is understanding how things work] Hey! That's my tagline! Where'd you find it? Lee Oo-v-oO PP-ASEL KB1GNI From h_hagar at prcn.org Mon Sep 29 06:40:40 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Warning to Newbies --- ( fooling around with Rabbits could be addictive ) Message-ID: <001901c38686$e528c5a0$9fccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I for one is hopelessly hooked. The whole summer gone doing nothing else. --- five trips to town yesterday ???. By the way fuel dropped seven cents pr litre suddenly , what's up ???. Now 70.9 cents Canadian pr Litre. Hagar. PS: The tranny for sale looks like my 4 speed 1982 1.6L NA Rabbit tranny, according to pictures.Very high gearing. -- From r3mismith at health.nb.ca Mon Sep 29 11:39:52 2003 From: r3mismith at health.nb.ca (Michael Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Any A2 or A3 diesel automatics? Message-ID: <0751EF3783EAD511886B00508BCFE8E00182F7BE@DECH_C> Hey Guys, My wife will be due for a new car in the spring, and she REFUSES to drive a standard transmission car. We were tossing around the idea of another diesel.......good fuel mileage, etc. I don't know if I've ever seen an automatic transmission Jetta or Golf, from like 88-95 or so. (we can't afford anything newer) Surely they must make them though, yes??? Are they reliable? What kind of fuel mileage can she expect for a 1.9L Jetta with an auto tranny? Thanks, Mike in NB From r.c.brown at ieee.org Mon Sep 29 08:55:11 2003 From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] FS: 1982 Diesel Pickup - New Baden, Illinois References: <4120039129141024370@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3F7847CF.F464B813@ieee.org> Not mine, found this posted on a USENET group: > Subject: > FS: 1982 Diesel Pickup > Date: > 29 Sep 2003 05:54:24 -0700 > From: > mailto:chris.kreher@illinoiscenterforautism.org (chrisvw) > Organization: > http://groups.google.com/ > Newsgroups: > rec.autos.makers.vw.watercooled > > > > > This pickup needs some work ( a lot of work ) > > Injector Pump is leaking on the timing belt. > Timing belt needs to be replaced > Water Pump leaks > > It has front end damage. > > It has more than 150,000 miles on the engine. I don't know the exact > amount > > Remember the truck is 21 years old. It looks like and drives like it. > > Fix the problems with the engine if you need a diesel engine or buy it > for parts, or do what you want with it. > > First $200 takes it. > > Located in New Baden, Illinois > Reply to newsgroup or email address please. > > Don't make me take this truck to a junkyard. Somebody wants this > truck for $200 bucks, don't you. > -- Roger From KevWolford at aol.com Mon Sep 29 12:33:24 2003 From: KevWolford at aol.com (KevWolford@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Preview of Diesel Touareg in Washington DC Message-ID: <197.20496f84.2ca9aac4@aol.com> Hi folks, for those of you in the Washington D.C./Maryland/Virginia area the Society of Automotive Engineers is hosting a preview of the Diesel Touareg. Two versions of the Touareg will be available for test drives at Fort McNair: the gasoline version (on the market now) and the V-10 diesel Touareg available in 2004. The new diesel SUV is being unveiled during a planned "Diesel Day" with Congress in the beginning of October. Dinner and a technical presentation by VW to follow. Cost: $25 members & non-members, $15 Students and Retiree's Date: Thursday, October 9, 2003 Time: 6 - 9 PM Place: Fort McNair Officers Club 4th Ave. and P Streets, S.W. Washington, DC 20319 RSVP: Contact Lou Brown by September 30 Louis.Brown@vw.com 202-216-4922 Space is limited to 50 people. Due to heightened security, anyone who wishes to attend must provide their name and bring a photo ID. Photo ID's shall be checked upon entering Ft. McNairTurner. Directions to Fort McNair: www.fmmc.army.mil/directions%20to%20mcnair.htm Final Note: For those concerned about abuse of the listserv. SAE is a 503-C3 organization and will not be profiting by this event. Neither will VW. From h_hagar at prcn.org Mon Sep 29 19:40:04 2003 From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H .Hagar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection timing of Old Volks #5 --- ( Adjustments on pump ) Message-ID: <000201c386f4$29fa0820$b2ccb5d0@prcn.org> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] As promised in # 4. So you are scared shirtless -- the pump is too compli= cated , you say --good -- then the reward at the end is sooo much sweeter. Firstly the saying "timing the pump" is a bad saying.(About that some other= time) we are timing pump to engine. How many things can we adjust. ??? here are some of them, 1. Idling spe= ed (most common) 2 Max throttle 3. Cold start lever. 5. Fueling screw= (turn 1/4 turn at the time) is touchy. 6. Governor (sets Max RPM no load) = 7=2E Timing piston (change shims) 8. Fuel regulator (done by adjusting spr= ing pressure on piston). Note Governor screw and lock-out has left hand t= hread. 9. And the biggie the slotted holes on pump mountings.We turn the pu= mp --a pencil line move makes a difference. (more on that some other time. = Every thing I say I have done --- but all this applies to BOSCH VE pu= mp 068 130 107 xxx This is VW number. we can go by bosch number as well. = The rabbits here are happy as anything and all gave up smoking. Hagar. PS: I did the 130 109 pumps as well ( on the 1.6L turbo. ) -- From AndreANDY2 at aol.com Mon Sep 29 23:02:36 2003 From: AndreANDY2 at aol.com (AndreANDY2@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] possible valve seal Message-ID: <132.252d62b8.2caa3e3c@aol.com> I have a 1.6td seaping oil out between the cly head and exh manifold #4 only All four cylinders good even compression . head done 20,000 kms ago (guides,Exh valves), swaped turbos still the same. advice appreciated. Thanks Andy From LBaird119 at aol.com Tue Sep 30 00:41:16 2003 From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] possible valve seal Message-ID: <131.248d17da.2caa555c@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have a 1.6td seaping oil out between the cly head and exh manifold #4 only You have baiscally three possibilities. In order of most likely... 1) leaking valve cover gasket. This could be an old cracked gasket, bent valve cover, burr or dent on the sealing surface on the head, old gasket stuck on the valve cover, excess blowby pressure and so on. 2) Leaking oil pressure sending unit. It's in that vicinity and the oil tends to wander back and/or down if the sending unit is leaking. 3) a crack in the head, into an oil passage. This is pretty rare as there aren't many oil passages in the head. Loren From jhsg at sasktel.net Tue Sep 30 02:45:27 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] [Audi-VW-Diesels] diesel trucks on the move In-Reply-To: Message-ID: >> I can't wait for the v10 to get here. > Sources say it will NOT happen at all!! :((( > WHAT? NO NO NO NO Tell me it isn't so.... That engine is the only reason I would own a too-are-egg. which sources? You need to get out of California man. They are mostly warped. SUV's are the shit mom drives to soccer and the store. They are big cars that use lots of gas and roll over easy; they haul no loads to speak of, or have no potential for same. Trucks have a box you throw your stuff into and can pull a trailer if needed at least. By the weight thing I was getting at, the mann, scania, or whatever trucks are actually kinda small compared to highway transport units here, what we would call a truck comparable to the racing stuff in europe. Quite small actually. Built for different scale of hauling. Drag racing is fun. Done for the challenge of hooking horsepower to the track in a burst. BTDT. it's okay, but stock car racing is more fun. Do that now actually. No offroad rallying here, which would be the best. Exactly what relationship to real life does road course racing a big diesel truck have :-), regardless of what continent it happens to be done on? It's for the FUN of it. Whatcha doing in California? -James --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.521 / Virus Database: 319 - Release Date: 09/23/2003 From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com Tue Sep 30 10:20:18 2003 From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] (no subject) Message-ID: Hi Mike VW only had automatic diesels in Canada for the following car (confirmed) 1985-1986 VW Jetta 1.6 diesel (no turbo option) unconfirmed that early eigthies Rabbit and A1 Jettas had them available, never witnessed a diesel auto just gas in the A1 bodies They came back with automatics in the 1999 + Jetta TDI and 2000 + Golf. Great vehicle, two in the family. I am stripping an 86 Jetta diesel automatic, if you want the trans and related parts email me, I have no use for that stuff just the engine. I am not expensive so shipping costs will be the biggest expense, I live in Ottawa Ontario Greg _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca Tue Sep 30 07:46:32 2003 From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] (no subject) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3F7926C8.13559.2D882E3D@localhost> Rabbit diesel autos were also available for at least 2 years from 81-84, with the auto trans that had an E(conomy) and P(ower) mode. (or something like that). Needless to say the Power mode was a misnomer. I carpooled for several years in one of these, I think it was an '82 or '83. My parent's '81 diesel 5 speed was also in the same carpool, and it was dragster in comparison, especially with 5 people in it... On 30 Sep 2003 at 9:20, greg rich wrote: > Hi Mike > VW only had automatic diesels in Canada for the following car (confirmed) > 1985-1986 VW Jetta 1.6 diesel (no turbo option) > unconfirmed that early eigthies Rabbit and A1 Jettas had them available, > never witnessed a diesel auto just gas in the A1 bodies > They came back with automatics in the 1999 + Jetta TDI and 2000 + Golf. > Great vehicle, two in the family. > I am stripping an 86 Jetta diesel automatic, if you want the trans and > related parts email me, I have no use for that stuff just the engine. I am > not expensive so shipping costs will be the biggest expense, I live in > Ottawa Ontario > Greg > > _________________________________________________________________ > The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _______________________________________________ > vwdiesel mailing list > vwdiesel@vwfans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel > -- Shawn Wright http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright '88 Westy 375k '85 Jetta D 263k '85 Jetta TD 482k (retired) ~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~ "Friends don't let friends use Outlook" From forrestking at juno.com Tue Sep 30 16:39:21 2003 From: forrestking at juno.com (forrestking@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] carpooling Message-ID: <20030930.084017.2345.1176@webmail07.lax.untd.com> WOW - you carpooled with 5 people in a vw Rabbit? That is amazing, was it a short trip? (oh, and it begs the joke: Did you guys charge for a show, or did your coworkers get to watch the clown demonstration for free. Forrest ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today! From jhsg at sasktel.net Tue Sep 30 14:37:03 2003 From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:04:02 2003 Subject: [Vwdiesel] [Audi-VW-Diesels] diesel trucks on the move In-Reply-To: <150.2495a2cf.2caaef54@aol.com> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] That's good to hear. I would imagine the only barrier to Canada imports would then be decisions at the executive level, not emissions, fuel or the like. Cool. Passat too? Hopefully built in belgium too. Oh yeah. The build quality is great on the 97 Passat tdi, belgium origin. Seems noticeable when it gets older when compared to the central american builds. -James -----Original Message----- From: RedMerk@aol.com [mailto:RedMerk@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 8:38 AM To: jhsg@sasktel.net Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] [Audi-VW-Diesels] diesel trucks on the move I can't answer for Canada, but the dealer, Byers VW, in Columbus, Ohio, USA, talked to the VW Region manager yesterday, 29 Sep 03, and was told to expect the V-10 diesel in both the Tuareg and the Passat in April 2004. I asked him to call because of a possible trade on my part. I am going to wait for the V-10. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.521 / Virus Database: 319 - Release Date: 09/23/2003