From iscass at shaw.ca  Thu Apr  1 01:01:47 2004
From: iscass at shaw.ca (cass)
Date: Thu Apr  1 01:01:47 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection timing --(Hillbilly tuning 1980 to 86 Bosch )
References: <003001c41277$be2f5e00$1ced7240@svend>
	<406293F7.19435.EB37F91@localhost>
Message-ID: <05a201c417ae$807cafe0$0200a8c0@ccl475>

...
<snip>
But, I have a gut feeling that it is still too far retarded, even though I have advanced 
it twice since changing the belt. It just doesn't seem to start as well as it did before 
the belt change. If I could find a dial gauge for a decent price, I'd do it the proper 
way, but I'm still looking.

shawn, i am in vic/saanich..i have a (the) dial gadge.
if your ever in the area n wanna cheak it.hit me off list.
cassie.
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Thu Apr  1 08:30:55 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Thu Apr  1 08:30:56 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection timing --(Hillbilly tuning 1980 to 86 Bosch )
Message-ID: <161.2d5c74eb.2d9d7386@wmconnect.com>

I picked up a dial indicator and the magnetic stand from Harbor Freight Tools 
for $10 combined.  Although they sell a tremendous amount of absolutely 
terrible, low quality crap (I'm almost too embarassed to say that I bought it 
there), I checked it against a friend's high dollar mics and it was dead nuts on 
through the whole range.  I figured for that price it was worth a gamble.  They 
were both on sale at the time, but they regularly go on sale.  In order to use 
the magnetic base for injection pump timing, I find that I have to remove the 
lines (should loosen them to adjust anyway).  
Andrew
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  1 09:40:04 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Thu Apr  1 09:40:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: max fuel adjustment
In-Reply-To: <BAY1-DAV53ZolmRBaYF000156f5@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20040401144001.1567.qmail@web80810.mail.yahoo.com>

A while back I call Bosch Technical Support and asked
specifically where I could get good hard numbers for
tolerances and performance measurements for specific
injection pump models. I was told that the information
is proprietary and only released to Bosch Authroized
Injection Puump Repair Facilities.

--Nate
--- "William A. Thompson" <twogreek@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> Hmmmm ...
> 
> >"Will Taygan" and "H.Hagar"  wrote in a Thread
> 
> First ... at the bottom was ...
> >I'm going pick up a copy of the bosch ve yellow
> book to see if I can internalize this.
> >Ummmm   good idea.
> 
> 
> I just received the new edition of the Bosch Book on
> our injection pumps from Bentley the other day. The
> old one was out of print when I ordered it months
> ago ... and they just put out a new version. Will
> ... come look at it if you want to ... it is pretty
> good in explaining the theory .. but lacks on
> specifications ... can't take measurement specs from
> the book ... as in it doesn't have 'em ... to
> determine if anything is out of tolerance. No
> measurements, volumes or pressures given except in a
> general sense. I think they might call that
> "proprietary information"? .. ... ... or "effective
> stealorship market positioning?" ... or the .. "bend
> over" position ???!!!
> It does seem to cover the theory of all pumps in the
> VW line. I only have the NAs so I can't begin to
> evaluate it's treatment of the turbo/newer pumps. I
> am still ingesting and reflecting on the theory ...
> really haven't had enough re-reading and
> re-reflection time to best conceptualize it as yet
> ... but I plod on.
> Does anybody know if the old Bosch VE book gave
> specs to evaluate the condition of the pump? How
> about internal adjustments/replacements for springs
> and such? They indicate that the internal parts are
> not interchangeable ... is such the case in the real
> world as to cannibalism? Any insight as to what a
> good authorized rebuilder can actually do?
> 
> 
> >Ummmm...
> >Is this right?
> >Top of pump (screws connected to accelerator)
> controls the amount of
> >fuel injected, thereby controlling idle and max
> rpm.
> >Ummmm     not really.
> 
> I agree Hagar ... to the extent that I see the
> statement as correct as far as it goes ... but
> possibly misleading without context. All these
> adjustments affect the others and ... depending on
> how you look at it .. and the point in the process
> of adjustment that is being discussed .. the
> statement itself can't be judged without the context
> that is understood by the time this statement can be
> made and be valid.
> By the time one gets to the point of final
> adjustment ... while making the top screw
> adjustments one could look at it this way in a sense
> ... and be effecting a fine tuning of low and max
> rpm as the final adjustments in the process.
> 
> 
> >Side of pump controls max fuel given at a
> particular degree (of the top of pump accelerator
> control), in
> >essence giving more fuel for the idle, more fuel
> for the mid range and more fuel for max at a given
> rpm,
> >(raising the scale).
> >Ummmm   not really.
> 
> Again I agree/disagree with the statement depending
> on the context. All the adjustments affect one
> another and all ... within the scope of their
> function/influence ... control the volume of fuel
> delivery for each gulp of fuel within the scope of
> their influence.
> So far my take on it is that ...
> To make the concept of the statements be more
> descriptive of what is going on ... isn't it more
> like ... load creates demand which the pump responds
> to by supplying more fuel. The full load screw on
> the side is adjusted for how much fuel is being
> dumped in according to load demand thru the rpm
> range ... while the top screws are then used to
> limit the rpm range by limiting fuel volume at their
> "end of the scale" point of influence.
> 
> It was kinda funny how my head got a little dizzy as
> I had to make the effort to change perspective while
> reading with tri-focals ... from carburetors and how
> they mostly use vacume to respond to load then use
> centrifugal force to respond to rpm ... and
> injection pumps using centrifugal force balanced
> against springs to respond to load then use pressure
> within the pump to respond to rpm. Likewise all of
> these adjustments end up being influenced by all the
> others ... and all are responding ultimately to
> load.
> But it seems that ... at it's most basic description
> ... the full load screw on the side adjusts the
> volume of fuel delivered thru the rpm range and the
> two top screws then adjust the limits of the rpm
> range.
> 
> >PS:   My version on the way.
> 
> Yes ... Reality check appreciated ... please Hagar
> ... you other wizards too ... 
> 
> Bill
> Sedro Woolley, Washington.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Thu Apr  1 10:35:28 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Thu Apr  1 10:35:30 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: max fuel adjustment  --(things are a cooking )
Message-ID: <000b01c417fe$db253fc0$88ed7240@svend>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: H.Hagar 
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2004 7:29 AM
Subject: max fuel adjustment --(things are a cooking )


I am delighted to see some of you take an interest in the workings
of   " Da Pump " ----   lets face it changing wheel bearings and 
brakeshoes --- is ok --but ---mastering the pump is like getting your
Wings.

So the more of us dig in to it --the faster we will tame the little cutie.
--  Taming the Shrew ?    

I just received the new edition of the Bosch Book on our injection pumps from Bentley   -- W.A.Thomson wrote. --- -- if it is Bosch Diesel Engine Management
it is a great book.   I am looking for the old one too.

I see a lot of you are beginning to understand that many different adjustments
interact.  ---- Hence the beauty of the performance tuned Rabbit.

A  " BOOK"  tuned 1980 Rabbit will loose to a Performance tuned (Hillbilly)
every time.

Like Gary Orlando  mentioned the factory settings for many reasons , makes for
a slow Rabbit.

Only one thing controls the amount of fuel injected each stroke --- the position
of the control sleeve ---there are no needle valves or the like.

We have but one piston , and the stroke is fixed  at about 85 thou (inch).
So to inject less fuel we have to spill the excess fuel back in to main body of pump.
This is done by a holow center in the piston A small hole is covered by the sleeve.
So for minimum fuel hole is not covered----for maximum the hole is covered.

So who or what pushes the controlsleeve back and forth ???    stay tuned 
it is getting interesting.

Hagar.
From dieselwesty at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  1 13:07:54 2004
From: dieselwesty at yahoo.com (82 Diesel Westy)
Date: Thu Apr  1 13:07:56 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
In-Reply-To: <20040331134701.51501.qmail@web80807.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20040401180750.63972.qmail@web42004.mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks all, I think we can put the 505.01 oil thread
to bed.  I like the oil extractor and figured that pan
cover needed to be removed to change oil.  I just got
whopped $52 for 5 qts of Castrol 505.01 and a filter.
I will order a case of MANN filters and get the oil
from Hayden's lead.

Thanks all.

Bryan Belman


--- Nate Wall <natewall1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I got the Castrol 505.01 at the dealer. Its special
> VW
> 505.01 for the 04 Pumpe Deuce motors. They sell
> another Castrol diesel oil used in the 03 and
> earlier
> TDIs (505.00 spec, I think). I hear alot of the 04s
> are mistakenly getting the 505.00 oil. Change it
> yourself to be sure!
> 
> The 04 PD gets its first oil change at 5000 miles,
> the
> second at 10,000 miles and every 10,000 miles
> thereafter. Like always, the filter is changed too.
> BTW, its the same filter as used in the 03 and
> earlier
> A-4 TDIs. I get the filters locally (MANN) for about
> $8 each.
> 
> --Nate
> 
> --- 82 Diesel Westy <dieselwesty@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > OK, I need to do the first oil change on my new
> > Jetta
> > Wagon.  I am having no luck finding this standard
> of
> > oil in US.  Castrol and Havoline make it according
> > to
> > their web sites but 2 auto parts places I deal
> with
> > can not find it at their suppliers.
> > 
> > Any idea where I can get Castrol GTD 505 01 SAE
> > 5W-40
> > or the Havoline equivalent?
> > 
> > >From the list reads I am doing, I don't want to
> use
> > anything else, pure synthetic, but looks like I
> only
> > need to change every 10K, VW says 5K?
> > Of course I can buy it at the VW parts counter
> > because
> > they are importing it from Europe.
> > 
> > Texas TDI?  any idea's
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > =====
> > Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
> > 04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp
> > 82 Westfalia Diesel, 1.9L NA hybrid, under body
> > restoration & engine re-work
> > 90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD
> > 70 Type 1 Beetle
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on
> > time.
> > http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on
> time.
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html


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From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Thu Apr  1 13:23:54 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Thu Apr  1 13:23:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] pump effects...
Message-ID: <18271854.1080843831845.JavaMail.www@wwinf3002>

Further to my comments of yesterday... 

When I set about timing my Quantum 1.6TD to the 1.0mm that Loren,Nate Gary etc all told me was the 'secret' figure I was trying to get from stealerships here in the UK a few years back THANKS GUYS :oD... This is what I found... 
My Quantum was giving me between 35- 45mpg (4.54litres) 
Initial settings were pump set at 0.88mm 
Cam when locked was wrong giving a crank advance of about 1/2" on the flywheel or 1 &1/2 teeth or about 4 deg. 
Whilst farting about with my dial gauge I found (like Hagar says) piston thrust to be 90 thou....or 2.286 mm 
New fuel economy became 41.5 to 56mpg (4.54litres) or a 20+% improvement.. :o)

Interestingly (To me anyway) I found that the piston thrusts at an initial 2 thou per flywheel tooth peaking to 5 thou per tooth [percieved rotation of flywheel]... which gives an idea of spread of injection (static timing).
 
According to Rogers archives... 
Full load piston squirt is 0.0345 cm ^3 or 34.5 mm^3 
Bore of fuel line is2.25mm dia by 340mm long... or carries 430 CUBIC mm !! 
Hence each new squirt passes7.9% down the bore..or 12.6 squirts to reach the injector ...amazing or what!!! 
So at a guess I'd say DONT BORE DA BORE  eh? ;o) 
How about putting copper wire strands down to reduce bore to counteract compressability of the fuel? 

Mark(The Miser)UK "There's nothing like driving past a bonfire and then realising it's your car thats smokin' " 

======================================== 
Message date : Apr 01 2004, 01:25 AM 
>From : "Will Taygan" 
To : mark@shepher.fsnet.co.uk 
Copy to : 
Subject : RE: [Vwdiesel] pump effects... 
Thanks Mark. 

-Will Taygan 

> -------- Original Message -------- 
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] pump effects... 
> From: "Mark Shepherd" 
> Date: Wed, March 31, 2004 4:17 pm 
> To: "vwdiesel" 
> 
> This is my limited view and may or may not reflect that of the experts 
> The piston in the pump always pumps the maximum fuel...BUT... there is 
> a sleeve that fits outside/around the 'compression chamber' in front of 
> the piston. This piston has a hole down its middle that allows the 
> compressed fuel to squirt back and it is directed to each fuel line in 
> turn via oneway valves at the start of each line. The sleeve covers a 
> further hole in the piston that allows spillage of fuel back into the 
> body of the pump. The point at which this spillage occurs depends on 
> the position of the sleeve. 
> The position of the sleeve is determined by several springs or links to 
> springs pulling on it... 
> 1) The accelerator arm... 
> 2) The max fuel screw... 
> 3) The centrifugal weights that are rpm relatedand also advance timing 
> like the gas engine distributer... 
> 4) (for the TD) the boost pressure from the turbo [which is 
> predominantly engine loading and available exhaust heat] +exhaust 
> flowrate to some extent also...A kind of positive feedback the rate of 
> effect being controlled by the taper of the cone in the aneroid spring 
> tension,and initial position. 
> 5) The Cold start lever I believe only advances the fuel timing and its 
> effect minimises as speed picks up... 
> Well thats my view... 
> Mark (The Miser) UK 
> "There's nothing like driving past someones bonfire and realising that 
> its your car thats smokin' " 
> Freeserve AnyTime - HALF PRICE for the first 3 months - Save ?7.50 a 
> month 
> www.freeserve.com/anytime 
> _______________________________________________ 
> Vwdiesel mailing list 
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
Freeserve AnyTime - HALF PRICE for the first 3 months - Save ?7.50 a month 
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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Thu Apr  1 19:26:26 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Thu Apr  1 19:26:27 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings  # 58 ---- ( Da results )
Message-ID: <000c01c41849$035fb660$4aed7240@svend>

All that fiddling and farting around ???  --- was it worth it ???.

Bet your sweet ass. ------   Aprils fool ???? could be.

But the weather here on the coast , never was more perfect on a April
fools day that I can remember.

So I took the 1984 Rabbit 1.6L Turbo out for a joyride.   What a cutie.
For some reason the Turbo put out 6 PSIG ---- I defy anybody to listen to
her , and tell me that she is not a happy Bunny. She is not going to have a "Melt Down"
any time soon.

So I guess I can say that I got the bottle out --and she is doing 100 miles
to the gallon.      Opec Smopec kiss my butt.

The 239 million was not mine --- but that's ok.    So maybe I shall get
a few Danish panels ---and get rid of the BONDO.

To think that I got her as "JUNK"  a  parts donor   ---WOW. For parts only
it say on receipt.    So Jeff Rakus   get that thing of yours while it is still
there. Any 1980 or better Rabbit is worth  500 dollars Canadian just in parts.
Yes I changed VIN  number. ( for free )

Still have not replaced burned out blockheater ----- this morning was frosty
she started like "bump". -- never heard the starter work.

How sweet she is.

Hagar.
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Fri Apr  2 09:29:22 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Fri Apr  2 09:29:22 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: injection pump reseal parts
Message-ID: <1aa.2203f0be.2d9ed2bd@wmconnect.com>

I recently drove my wife's '86 diesel jetta and caught the smell of diesel 
fuel.  I stopped and popped the hood to find that the pump was leaking from by 
the fuel distributor housing.  I thought "no problem" I had a pump that came 
from a '92 motor I had purchased and had been planning on putting the pump on 
the '86, but hadn't gotten around to it.  After I installed the pump, in short 
order, it started leaking from almost every place (except the pulley seal).  I 
thought a bit, and then some more, and then removed the return line and tried 
blowing through it.  Sure enough, blocked.  There was a bit of crud at the 
fuel tank end.  It was an easy fix.  I then purchased a used pump from a friend, 
installed, and the car runs better than ever.  BUT, I now have two otherwise 
functional leaky injection pumps.  Does anyone know of a good source for a 
reseal kit or the individual o-rings for Da Pump?
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Fri Apr  2 09:50:47 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Fri Apr  2 09:50:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
Message-ID: <000c01c418c1$c4248920$27ed7240@svend>

Parts for  Da Pump ---- yes easy to get.  By mail.       Where are you at ?

I got bushings seals for shaft   . New O rings and your pumps are likely
going to stop leaking.

Here on the west coast --- many repair shops will sell parts.

Hagar.

PS:   Hope you have access to an impact screwdriver.   wonder ???
Do they use locktite at BOSCH ?
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Fri Apr  2 09:57:09 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Fri Apr  2 09:57:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
Message-ID: <bf.3dd1fa53.2d9ed93a@wmconnect.com>

I am located in Flagstaff, AZ.  
Andrew
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Fri Apr  2 09:59:09 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Fri Apr  2 09:59:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
Message-ID: <1e2.1cd7ce13.2d9ed9b2@wmconnect.com>

Flagstaff has nice views and great weather, but a serious lack of available 
vw parts.  Thank goodness for the internet.
Andrew
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Fri Apr  2 10:54:58 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Fri Apr  2 10:54:59 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] pump effects...   ---(  The Shepherds pye  magic )
Message-ID: <000c01c418ca$bed97800$8bed7240@svend>

Mark Shepherd I am happy I have to deal with this one on "Fools Day"

How about putting copper wire strands down to reduce bore to counteract compressability of the fuel? 

Platinum wires work best ,  they have to be cut to an exact dipole length. They
will then increase cetane by 5 numbers.

Remember the shockwave travels faster in Platinum than in Fuel.

On to your idea of using  Ajax Comet and the likes for a lapping compound ??.

Yes it works.   But due to the chlorine I do not use it.  The issue was the taper
on the cam sprocket.  If I install a sprocket from a different shaft . I use clover leaf
green can. Fine valve grinding stuff.     On finer work, yellow timesaver is the ticket.

And 45 foot pounds torque is safe on shaft bolt.   Now if Val Christian is right ? 
that sprocket must be able to turn for safety reasons----we are screwing things up.

Way to go Mark.


Hagar.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Fri Apr  2 11:31:52 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Fri Apr  2 11:31:53 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
Message-ID: <6a.3d9e0b82.2d9eef6d@aol.com>



> Flagstaff has nice views and great weather, but a serious lack of available 
> 
> vw parts.  Thank goodness for the internet.
> 

I had that happen in Idaho.  Got the pan punched on the Quattro so I needed 
to pull it and pound it back out.  Never saw such laughter as when I 
asked for a pan gasket for an Audi.  Sheesh!
     Loren
From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Fri Apr  2 11:41:33 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Fri Apr  2 11:41:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808663@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

Now Loren, Here in Idaho we refer to that as the great challenge of VW
ownership!  I guess the real question that begs asking is; Why did you
run over that big 'ol rock in the first place???  It is amazing to go
through a winter without a cracked windshield!  Needless to say, one
doesn't see many "low riders" in Idaho!

Chuck

-----Original Message-----
From: LBaird119@aol.com [mailto:LBaird119@aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 9:32 AM
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts ---( are available )




> Flagstaff has nice views and great weather, but a serious lack of 
> available
> 
> vw parts.  Thank goodness for the internet.
> 

I had that happen in Idaho.  Got the pan punched on the Quattro so I
needed 
to pull it and pound it back out.  Never saw such laughter as when I 
asked for a pan gasket for an Audi.  Sheesh!
     Loren
_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Fri Apr  2 12:05:03 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Fri Apr  2 12:05:04 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
Message-ID: <1d4.1e060796.2d9ef72d@aol.com>

We were on some back road, going to a cave outside of American Falls.  
Can't remember the name of it now.  It was spring and someone had gone 
through when it was muddy so we were straddling the ruts.  Came over 
a bump and whump!  It didn't look rocky but there was a rock in it.  :(
  The scarey part was the oil light started coming on a mile or so later 
(on the way back).  It turned out to be the smashed, plastic baffle 
plugging the pickup screen.
  4K Q's are pretty low for a 4wd car.  : P  We experienced similar 
laughter when I had to do something to it in KS as well.
     Loren
From dieselwesty at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  2 14:03:07 2004
From: dieselwesty at yahoo.com (82 Diesel Westy)
Date: Fri Apr  2 14:03:08 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injection pump reseal parts  ---( are available )
In-Reply-To: <6a.3d9e0b82.2d9eef6d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20040402190305.59364.qmail@web42006.mail.yahoo.com>

I have noticed that as well in my work travel around
the US.

I have traveled enough to know the I see the MOST
VW's, both old and new, in the North East corner of
USA, it seems to me.

Many in the North West and Southern CA I bet, but not
much in-between.

I was working in TX for about 3 months and could count
the number of VW I saw on 2 hands.  I was floored to
see a silver beat-up vanagon on day near Round Rock,
TX.



=====
Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp
82 Westfalia Diesel, 1.9L NA hybrid, under body restoration & engine re-work
90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD
70 Type 1 Beetle

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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Fri Apr  2 14:42:17 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Fri Apr  2 14:42:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Flagstaff parts. ?.
Message-ID: <000a01c418ea$806c1f80$17ed7240@svend>

Welcome to Southwest Diesel & Electric Corporation
... WE INSTALL WHAT WE SELL. 1830 N. 27TH AVENUE PHOENIX, AZ 85009 (800) 658-5806
(602) 269-2471 FAX (602) 233-1017 E-MAIL: info@swdiesel.com. ... Fuel Injection, ... 
http://www.southwestdiesel.com/ - Cached


Been to flagstaff      -----   had a friend there --- aircraft mechanic type.

Hagar.

PS: toll free number.
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Fri Apr  2 22:29:38 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Fri Apr  2 22:29:39 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Flagstaff parts. ?.
Message-ID: <12a.3e49229d.2d9f8993@wmconnect.com>

I've dealt slightly with Southwest Diesel- it's still mail order or a four 
hour round trip.  Also "never trust anyone below 6000 ft.  I talked to a fellow 
there about my resealing the pump.  He actually laughed out loud and said that 
I would "never be able to get it back together."  There are quite a few parts 
in there, but it's not as complex machine as what it is attached to.  They 
also charged me $15 plus shipping for a pulley shaft seal, that may be 
reasonable, but it seemed a little steep.  I'd love to see what it is like dealing with 
their competition.  Any other names?  I don't mind mail order, as I'm 
resigned to that anyway.  Shipping from Phoenix is not that different from shipping 
from Cal or Maine for that matter.  Was the fellow you knew named Roy?  Just a 
guess.  I was wondering if there was a reseal kit available or if I need to 
buy each o-ring individually.  Thanks, Andrew.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 02:05:22 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 02:05:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Flagstaff parts. ?.
Message-ID: <194.26b91b61.2d9fbc25@aol.com>



> I was wondering if there was a reseal kit available or if I need to 
> buy each o-ring individually.  Thanks, Andrew.
> 

  There are indeed kits available.  I saw what was left of the one Jake 
picked up.  He got his from Seattle injector.  Heck dieselparts.com 
might even have stuff.  Not sure if they do for Bosch but I got a couple 
seals for my 6.2's pump from them.  Cheap and easy to deal with.
  The kit Jake had even had a NICE, detailed, exploded diagram and 
part list so you knew where to put all the o-rings.
     Loren
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Sat Apr  3 02:34:21 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Sat Apr  3 02:34:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOCEALEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

So here's a cute one I thought I'd share.

Finally, I get around to pulling the intake off the 97 Passat to clean it
and to inspect the EGR valve as it seems to be leaking.  Sure enough, the
hole to atmosphere so the diaphragm can move is slobbering foul goo, and is
probably the source of the foul diesel smoke odor we've been smelling inside
the car on cold starts. (There was a hood sealing foam gasket missing) Fine,
the EGR is permanently crimped, so over the shoulder it goes, and go bleed
for a new manifold.  No biggie, other than the cost *coff*, $508 CDN at my
"dealer wholesale" price level.  Hmm... well, we're keeping the car till the
wheels fall off anyway, so what the hell, sez I, and call up the friendly
neighborhood dealer, (only a leisurely 8 hour drive away).  Great, order it,
plus a couple sundry trinkets I've been putting off, and am told, Oh, that
has to come from Tronna, so it's 5 days minimum, they won't air freight out
of the Tronna depot any more.  Okay, the car is on jackstands in the shop,
IN FRONT of my stock car, which I'm rather set on painting and getting ready
for the season, so that's two full spots in a two spot shop, and the dead
horse is at the front with the engine open. great. No pushing that outside.
So, tinker for a couple days, do other stuff, not that that's ever lacking.
Call dealer back today looking for parts, eight working days from the
original order date, and told that the backorder will be RELEASED on that
part on Apr 20, which would mean another 5 day shipping wait after that
even.  So what, are they waiting for the boy scouts to send their recycled
aluminum foil in to cast another manifold? Sheesh!

So, clean this one up, it has to go back on, five hours of scratching,
digging, spraying, passing out from solvent, etc... Man was it ever plugged.
I easily took two cups black goo out of there.  Anyone that thinks EGR is
good on a diesel was dropped as a child.  So with things clean, I evaluate
the egr, man it's leaking BAD. It's leaking a steady stream of solvent from
just the parts washer solvent flow directed at the inside of the plunger
shaft bushing, almost no pressure at all.  So, drill and tap the EGR
pressure equalization/exhaust/sludge drain hole to 1/8" fine pipe thread,
and put in a hose barb, so I can vent the sucker out the bottom of the car.
Not that the thing is going to admit much carbon from now on anyway...
Cleaned the intercooler too, and with the new 2-1/2" exhaust pipe with one
flowmaster muffler at the rear it should REALLY sing now. Next stage,
injectors and a chip...

So, what kind of shitty parts supply is this?  First time I have ever run
across this bad a service from ANY parts seller, and there are no other
manifolds available from the other suspects I know and deal with either.
Man, GMC dealer can get me an obscure early corvette cast iron performance
exhaust manifold here next day service, and the volks dealer can't supply an
obviously consumable part. Go figure. Heck, the John Deere dealer got me a
release bearing for a clutch on a 1937 John Deere BR in ONE week a number of
years yeara ago.

Oh, and consumer's reports really rated the new volks stuff poor too, mostly
over the 1.8T coil issue.  Boys in the fatherland better wise up, or go back
to making 411's, and 412's.
-James


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From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Sat Apr  3 09:28:42 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 09:28:43 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Oil cooler on N/A diesel
Message-ID: <1d1.1d91b347.2da02415@wmconnect.com>

I have an '86 jetta na diesel.  It does not have the oil cooler mounted above 
filter.  Is there any issue with adding one on?  Also, on the same car I have 
noticed that the water temp gauge reads significantly higher (sometimes 
almost redline- light never goes on)  with running lights or headlights are on.  It 
seems unaffected when any other accessories are on.  I attribute that to an 
electrical problem, but it seems that the heater blows hotter air also (I might 
be imagining it).  Any recommends?  Drive without my headlights or running 
lights on?  Thanks, Andrew.

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sat Apr  3 10:38:08 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sat Apr  3 10:38:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Flagstaff parts. ?.  
Message-ID: <000c01c41991$8bdec000$1fed7240@svend>

Was the fellow you knew named Roy?   (No   Dave Ateah.)

 He actually laughed out loud and said that 
I would "never be able to get it back together."  There are quite a few parts 
in there, but it's not as complex machine as what it is attached to.  

It is a tricky little devil -----lots of springs rollers gears cams pins --- so take one
of your pumps apart only. (the worst one).

NO need to take apart for a seal change.      On the cold start shaft are two
"O" rings --- get shaft and seal as an assembly ( dirt cheap).

The cold shaft seal is the most important one ---it will empty pump (at bottom)
and give starting problems. The pump will have to be primed for every start , if
leak is bad.

Here is a list of some of the "O" rings .   Fueling screw  one each.  Fuel Regulator
two each .  Cold start shaft  two each.   Throttle arm  one each.  Distributor
one each (biggie)     Top cover one each  (fits in groove in lid.)

Now I twigged on to you saying a "BLOCKED"  drain ?  ---that could make even a
brand new pump leak.      That is similar to blocking "Orifice" in outlet banjo.

Internal pump pressure should not be let go higher than say 150 psi.

I do not know for sure if fuel regulator will bypass enough fuel to keep
the pressure safe. But  next month I will know  (testing it on engine in front)

The only difficult seal to change is the sprocket shaft seal. If it is in there
real tight (like one of mine)  it is PIA PIA PIA and more. It can be done.

For instruction on how to change top lid seal without totally removing lid ,
stand - by (stay tuned )   pun intended.

Hagar.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 10:54:05 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 10:54:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Oil cooler on N/A diesel
Message-ID: <d5.9229c0d.2da03811@aol.com>

  You can add the oil cooler/warmer but there are a couple of fairly spendy 
(not compared to James' manifold) 3-way hoses that go with it.  I'd check 
the major grounds; battery to engine, to body, alt to engine and so forth as 
well as the multi ground (should be one I think) in around the instrument 
cluster.  Does the fuel gauge do the same or similar?  It might be the 
"Voltage stabilizer".  It's a 3 prong 10V regulator, plugged into the circuit 

board on the back of the instrument cluster.
     Loren
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  3 11:07:53 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Sat Apr  3 11:07:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
In-Reply-To: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOCEALEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <20040403160750.95118.qmail@web80802.mail.yahoo.com>

Anyone see the recent VW sales figues lately? They are
not doing well at all. Customer satisfaction is way
down.

--Nate
--- James Hansen <jhsg@sasktel.net> wrote:
> So here's a cute one I thought I'd share.
> 
> Finally, I get around to pulling the intake off the
> 97 Passat to clean it
> and to inspect the EGR valve as it seems to be
> leaking.  Sure enough, the
> hole to atmosphere so the diaphragm can move is
> slobbering foul goo, and is
> probably the source of the foul diesel smoke odor
> we've been smelling inside
> the car on cold starts. (There was a hood sealing
> foam gasket missing) Fine,
> the EGR is permanently crimped, so over the shoulder
> it goes, and go bleed
> for a new manifold.  No biggie, other than the cost
> *coff*, $508 CDN at my
> "dealer wholesale" price level.  Hmm... well, we're
> keeping the car till the
> wheels fall off anyway, so what the hell, sez I, and
> call up the friendly
> neighborhood dealer, (only a leisurely 8 hour drive
> away).  Great, order it,
> plus a couple sundry trinkets I've been putting off,
> and am told, Oh, that
> has to come from Tronna, so it's 5 days minimum,
> they won't air freight out
> of the Tronna depot any more.  Okay, the car is on
> jackstands in the shop,
> IN FRONT of my stock car, which I'm rather set on
> painting and getting ready
> for the season, so that's two full spots in a two
> spot shop, and the dead
> horse is at the front with the engine open. great.
> No pushing that outside.
> So, tinker for a couple days, do other stuff, not
> that that's ever lacking.
> Call dealer back today looking for parts, eight
> working days from the
> original order date, and told that the backorder
> will be RELEASED on that
> part on Apr 20, which would mean another 5 day
> shipping wait after that
> even.  So what, are they waiting for the boy scouts
> to send their recycled
> aluminum foil in to cast another manifold? Sheesh!
> 
> So, clean this one up, it has to go back on, five
> hours of scratching,
> digging, spraying, passing out from solvent, etc...
> Man was it ever plugged.
> I easily took two cups black goo out of there. 
> Anyone that thinks EGR is
> good on a diesel was dropped as a child.  So with
> things clean, I evaluate
> the egr, man it's leaking BAD. It's leaking a steady
> stream of solvent from
> just the parts washer solvent flow directed at the
> inside of the plunger
> shaft bushing, almost no pressure at all.  So, drill
> and tap the EGR
> pressure equalization/exhaust/sludge drain hole to
> 1/8" fine pipe thread,
> and put in a hose barb, so I can vent the sucker out
> the bottom of the car.
> Not that the thing is going to admit much carbon
> from now on anyway...
> Cleaned the intercooler too, and with the new 2-1/2"
> exhaust pipe with one
> flowmaster muffler at the rear it should REALLY sing
> now. Next stage,
> injectors and a chip...
> 
> So, what kind of shitty parts supply is this?  First
> time I have ever run
> across this bad a service from ANY parts seller, and
> there are no other
> manifolds available from the other suspects I know
> and deal with either.
> Man, GMC dealer can get me an obscure early corvette
> cast iron performance
> exhaust manifold here next day service, and the
> volks dealer can't supply an
> obviously consumable part. Go figure. Heck, the John
> Deere dealer got me a
> release bearing for a clutch on a 1937 John Deere BR
> in ONE week a number of
> years yeara ago.
> 
> Oh, and consumer's reports really rated the new
> volks stuff poor too, mostly
> over the 1.8T coil issue.  Boys in the fatherland
> better wise up, or go back
> to making 411's, and 412's.
> -James
> 
> 
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> (http://www.grisoft.com).
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> _______________________________________________
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From iscass at shaw.ca  Sat Apr  3 11:41:38 2004
From: iscass at shaw.ca (cass)
Date: Sat Apr  3 11:41:39 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injector lines.   --- ( you got my attention )
References: <000b01c4166e$60671b00$4aed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <00d801c4199a$60c41e20$0200a8c0@ccl475>


ok..
so leaks (3 outta 4) on lines have been stopped by sanding the 'shoulder' off
the pressure/lump  fitting on hose.(and cleaning well after) one leaking a bit now,
.....was the one that wasn't leaking before.. isnt that typical???

typical ,like...when i put the main seal in ,i though.'.that went in kinda funny'..
friend said 'it would be FINE...i worry too much'...guess what im doing this weekend??   :o)

thanks!!
cassie
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Sat Apr  3 14:44:19 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 14:44:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Flagstaff parts. ?.  
Message-ID: <1de.1c67240d.2da06e03@wmconnect.com>

The first pump was leaking at the distributor.  The second pump I put on 
leaked at all of the above except the sprocket shaft seal (kinda odd that the one 
seal against a moving part didn't leak).  Being curious, and feeling somewhat 
challenged, I took apart the first pump, as it already had 290k miles on it.  
I agree that it is a little tricky to put back together, but certainly not 
impossible.  If I closed my eyes and dumped it out, I think I might not get it 
back together, but taking it apart consciously it seems fairly straightforward 
how it goes back together.  A little grease on springs and washers helped.  I 
took the second one apart and replaced the dist o-ring (with one from NAPA) , 
and tried using sealer on the fuel screws.  The pump ran fine when primed, but 
would leak a small amount from cold start, requiring a lot of cranking.  I'd 
like to put them both together using the proper parts.  I'm all ears on 
changing top seal w/out removing lid.  Thanks for all the input, Andrew.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 18:56:00 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 18:56:00 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
Message-ID: <1a2.226acfa7.2da0a907@aol.com>


> Customer satisfaction is way
> down.
> 

  Show of hands of anyone that's surprised by that?  ....  ANYONE???
I'm surprised that it's really ever gone up since about the mid 80's.  
That seems to be about when they decided they were indespensible 
or something and that no matter what they did or how they treated 
customers, they'd come back.
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 18:58:37 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 18:58:38 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injector lines.   --- ( you got my attention )
Message-ID: <dc.743f032.2da0a9a7@aol.com>


> guess what im doing this weekend??   :o)
> 

  Any job worth doing is worth doing ... twice???  ;-D
     Loren
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Sat Apr  3 19:19:37 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Sat Apr  3 19:19:37 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
In-Reply-To: <1a2.226acfa7.2da0a907@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20040404001935.69935.qmail@web80804.mail.yahoo.com>

Yea, here's one. VW FINALY warrantied the mass air
flow (MAF) sensor on the 2000 - 2002 TDIs for 70,000
miles.  Most failed bhy 30,000 miles. BUT the dealer
is charging a $85 diagnostic fee that IS NOT refunded
even if the MAF tests bad and is replaced for free!

--Nate
--- LBaird119@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Customer satisfaction is way
> > down.
> > 
> 
>   Show of hands of anyone that's surprised by that? 
> ....  ANYONE???
> I'm surprised that it's really ever gone up since
> about the mid 80's.  
> That seems to be about when they decided they were
> indespensible 
> or something and that no matter what they did or how
> they treated 
> customers, they'd come back.
>      Loren
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


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From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 19:47:57 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 19:47:58 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
Message-ID: <96.76703ec.2da0b531@aol.com>



> $85 diagnostic fee

  How many HOURS does it take them to figure that out?!?!  Most warranty
work DOES allow for a short diagnosis time.  Heck,  we got somewhere 
between .1 and .2 hrs. to check front brake hoses for recalls. NEVER 
could make time on it though because the dealer policy was to check 
ALL lights, wash front and rear glass and test drive around a 6 block or 
so circle, on EVERY car.  Usually took twice as long as we got paid 
for due to that.  :(
     Loren
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Sat Apr  3 20:05:12 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Sat Apr  3 20:05:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Attn: TDI owners -- New AMSOIL 5w-40
References: <4050956C.5FC93D32@jps.net>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV24aendgjvM00022fdd@hotmail.com>

Just thought I'd let everyone know that AMSOIL now offers a 100% synthetic
Group 4 (100% synthetic basestocks) CI-4 5w-40 motor oil.  It meets VW
505.00 but not VW 505.01 so it's not recommended for use in the TDI PD.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/afl.htm

Retail price is $6.30 per quart and $74.40 per case of 12 quarts ($6.20 per
quart).  Less expensive than the Group 3 (dino oil basestocks) Castrol
Syntec 5w-30 that the dealership uses.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 97k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Sat Apr  3 20:40:55 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Sat Apr  3 20:40:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
References: <20040330183119.29034.qmail@web42003.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV4Nzq6xEfhz00023821@hotmail.com>

You can only find Castrol 5w-40 at the stealership.  MOTUL also has a 5w-40
that meets VW 505.01.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 94k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "82 Diesel Westy" <dieselwesty@yahoo.com>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 12:31 PM
Subject: [Vwdiesel] New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01


> OK, I need to do the first oil change on my new Jetta
> Wagon.  I am having no luck finding this standard of
> oil in US.  Castrol and Havoline make it according to
> their web sites but 2 auto parts places I deal with
> can not find it at their suppliers.
>
> Any idea where I can get Castrol GTD 505 01 SAE 5W-40
> or the Havoline equivalent?
>
> >From the list reads I am doing, I don't want to use
> anything else, pure synthetic, but looks like I only
> need to change every 10K, VW says 5K?
> Of course I can buy it at the VW parts counter because
> they are importing it from Europe.
>
> Texas TDI?  any idea's
From matt_lisa at sprynet.com  Sat Apr  3 22:31:20 2004
From: matt_lisa at sprynet.com (Matt_Lisa)
Date: Sat Apr  3 22:31:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
In-Reply-To: <20040404001935.69935.qmail@web80804.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <775CA448-85E8-11D8-A268-000393DA2908@sprynet.com>

My dealer is replacing MAF's for free without the diags.  Of course, we 
aren't in DC, either.

I had mine replaced at 56K miles, and it didn't cost me anything except 
the use of my car for a day.

Matt
http://matt_lisa.home.sprynet.com/

On Saturday, April 3, 2004, at 05:19 PM, Nate Wall wrote:

> Yea, here's one. VW FINALY warrantied the mass air
> flow (MAF) sensor on the 2000 - 2002 TDIs for 70,000
> miles.  Most failed bhy 30,000 miles. BUT the dealer
> is charging a $85 diagnostic fee that IS NOT refunded
> even if the MAF tests bad and is replaced for free!
>
> --Nate
> --- LBaird119@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> Customer satisfaction is way
>>> down.
>>>
>>
>>   Show of hands of anyone that's surprised by that?
>> ....  ANYONE???
>> I'm surprised that it's really ever gone up since
>> about the mid 80's.
>> That seems to be about when they decided they were
>> indespensible
>> or something and that no matter what they did or how
>> they treated
>> customers, they'd come back.
>>      Loren
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 22:45:01 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 22:45:02 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
Message-ID: <1df.1cfc527e.2da0deb2@aol.com>



> My dealer is replacing MAF's for free without the diags.  Of course, we 
> aren't in DC, either.
> 

MAF's on diesels.  Terrible that it seems as sensible as chains on a 
Cessna!  ;-)
     Loren
From weasel1 at sympatico.ca  Sat Apr  3 23:33:33 2004
From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (Derek)
Date: Sat Apr  3 23:33:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
Message-ID: <001b01c419fd$f91e0150$b072d1d8@derek>

Although I realize that diagnosing a vibration over the internet is next to impossible, I appeal to your wisdom as I am at my wits end.   While driving if I make a slight right turn ( as in a curve )  I get a vibration that I can feel in the floorboards and is really audible. It would appear to be coming from the drivers side front area.  It is quite noticeable when the car is cold, but reduces somewhat when I have driven it for about ten minutes or so.  I thought that it might be my CV, but nope.  Noise was there before and is still there after a recent replacement.  I figured maybe its my tires, but nope again.  I just put my summer rims on and no dice.  Damned thing is still there.  I did notice something when I changed tires though.  I had a hard time lining up the bolt holes on the drives side.  I thought that a bit odd and don't remember that happening.  It would appear as though the locating screw is broken or missing. ( I came to that realization after I did the other side of the car and had already put the drivers side tires on, duh ... )  Could that darned little screw be causing this ?  I wonder if when the rim is tightened down does it put all the pressure on the rotor or on that little bit of the hub that pokes through the rotor ?  Either way I will repair or replace that screw tomorrow, but I wonder ...
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr  3 23:58:07 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr  3 23:58:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
Message-ID: <190.27c81a82.2da0efcd@aol.com>

  The screw is just for convenience.  The lug bolts go through and pull 
everything down tight.  Sounds like a bad wheel bearing.  Jack up one 
side at a time and in about 3rd gear, run it up to 40 or 50 indicated.  
Then put it in neutral and shut off the engine, run out front, and listen. 
Do this for both sides.  If one doesn't seem all that loud, or too loud, 
then you can compare sides.  If they both sound the same then you 
have to determine if it's both or neither!  : )
     Loren 
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Sun Apr  4 00:39:40 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Sun Apr  4 00:39:42 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
In-Reply-To: <20040403160750.95118.qmail@web80802.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAEBMEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

that doesn't surprise me very much.  Any experience I have ever had with the
dealer shop has been negative. Like stuff I had no control over- the
predelivery inspection for instance when we bought the Passat.  I would
think it prudent to fasten ALL the clips on the airbox, and actually place
the filter INSIDE the airbox, not half out/half in. Stuff like that you get
from hiring policy of individual dealership, not a general policy put out by
the fatherland, but I can't imagine that sort of thing goes un-noticed by
the consumer for too long.  Volkswagen forgets that they have a VERY loyal
following that are passionate about their cars.  How do you get passionate
about a goofy SUV called a Moron-oh for instance.  I think they need Peitch
to pop in for a few days and clean house.
-James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nate Wall [mailto:natewall1@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 10:08 AM
> To: James Hansen; VW-Diesel List
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] VW's parts availability
>
>
> Anyone see the recent VW sales figues lately? They are
> not doing well at all. Customer satisfaction is way
> down.
>
> --Nate
> --- James Hansen <jhsg@sasktel.net> wrote:
> > So here's a cute one I thought I'd share.
> >
> > Finally, I get around to pulling the intake off the
> > 97 Passat to clean it
> > and to inspect the EGR valve as it seems to be
> > leaking.  Sure enough, the
> > hole to atmosphere so the diaphragm can move is
> > slobbering foul goo, and is
> > probably the source of the foul diesel smoke odor
> > we've been smelling inside
> > the car on cold starts. (There was a hood sealing
> > foam gasket missing) Fine,
> > the EGR is permanently crimped, so over the shoulder
> > it goes, and go bleed
> > for a new manifold.  No biggie, other than the cost
> > *coff*, $508 CDN at my
> > "dealer wholesale" price level.  Hmm... well, we're
> > keeping the car till the
> > wheels fall off anyway, so what the hell, sez I, and
> > call up the friendly
> > neighborhood dealer, (only a leisurely 8 hour drive
> > away).  Great, order it,
> > plus a couple sundry trinkets I've been putting off,
> > and am told, Oh, that
> > has to come from Tronna, so it's 5 days minimum,
> > they won't air freight out
> > of the Tronna depot any more.  Okay, the car is on
> > jackstands in the shop,
> > IN FRONT of my stock car, which I'm rather set on
> > painting and getting ready
> > for the season, so that's two full spots in a two
> > spot shop, and the dead
> > horse is at the front with the engine open. great.
> > No pushing that outside.
> > So, tinker for a couple days, do other stuff, not
> > that that's ever lacking.
> > Call dealer back today looking for parts, eight
> > working days from the
> > original order date, and told that the backorder
> > will be RELEASED on that
> > part on Apr 20, which would mean another 5 day
> > shipping wait after that
> > even.  So what, are they waiting for the boy scouts
> > to send their recycled
> > aluminum foil in to cast another manifold? Sheesh!
> >
> > So, clean this one up, it has to go back on, five
> > hours of scratching,
> > digging, spraying, passing out from solvent, etc...
> > Man was it ever plugged.
> > I easily took two cups black goo out of there.
> > Anyone that thinks EGR is
> > good on a diesel was dropped as a child.  So with
> > things clean, I evaluate
> > the egr, man it's leaking BAD. It's leaking a steady
> > stream of solvent from
> > just the parts washer solvent flow directed at the
> > inside of the plunger
> > shaft bushing, almost no pressure at all.  So, drill
> > and tap the EGR
> > pressure equalization/exhaust/sludge drain hole to
> > 1/8" fine pipe thread,
> > and put in a hose barb, so I can vent the sucker out
> > the bottom of the car.
> > Not that the thing is going to admit much carbon
> > from now on anyway...
> > Cleaned the intercooler too, and with the new 2-1/2"
> > exhaust pipe with one
> > flowmaster muffler at the rear it should REALLY sing
> > now. Next stage,
> > injectors and a chip...
> >
> > So, what kind of shitty parts supply is this?  First
> > time I have ever run
> > across this bad a service from ANY parts seller, and
> > there are no other
> > manifolds available from the other suspects I know
> > and deal with either.
> > Man, GMC dealer can get me an obscure early corvette
> > cast iron performance
> > exhaust manifold here next day service, and the
> > volks dealer can't supply an
> > obviously consumable part. Go figure. Heck, the John
> > Deere dealer got me a
> > release bearing for a clutch on a 1937 John Deere BR
> > in ONE week a number of
> > years yeara ago.
> >
> > Oh, and consumer's reports really rated the new
> > volks stuff poor too, mostly
> > over the 1.8T coil issue.  Boys in the fatherland
> > better wise up, or go back
> > to making 411's, and 412's.
> > -James
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system
> > (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.647 / Virus Database: 414 - Release
> > Date: 03/29/2004
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
> __________________________________
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> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
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From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Sun Apr  4 04:46:14 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Sun Apr  4 04:46:15 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad Vibrations
Message-ID: <25317732.1081068372289.JavaMail.www@wwinf3003>

You could try checking for play in  wheel bearing by grabbing raised wheels and pulling top out and bottom in; and if necessary wedging finger in gap under strut whilst wife does the wheel wobbling...
Mark(The Miser)UK
Freeserve AnyTime - HALF PRICE for the first 3 months - Save ?7.50 a month 
www.freeserve.com/anytime
From cotter at mhtc.net  Sun Apr  4 09:37:24 2004
From: cotter at mhtc.net (D. Cotter)
Date: Sun Apr  4 09:37:25 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
References: <001b01c419fd$f91e0150$b072d1d8@derek>
Message-ID: <001901c41a4a$09a7a3e0$77c9b4d8@theone>


> , I appeal to your wisdom as I am at my wits end.   While driving if I
make a slight right turn ( as in a curve )  I get a vibration that I can
feel in the floorboards and is really audible. It would appear to be coming
from the drivers side front area.


This symptom indicates wheel bearing failure--my opinion--Yes, right turn
puts load on drivers side and that one sounds off when bad. Follow Lorens
advice for further examination (block back tires soundly and jack solid:
hate to see your rabbit hop away on its own)
Luck
Cotter

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sun Apr  4 10:22:34 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sun Apr  4 10:22:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...  
Message-ID: <000201c41a50$29cca5c0$7aed7240@svend>

You asked for wisdom   --- jack up rear wheels ---and really check bearings.

No I did not say forget the front.

Hagar.
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sun Apr  4 10:50:46 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sun Apr  4 10:50:47 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Flagstaff parts. ?.  --- (  Da  pump )
Message-ID: <000201c41a54$1a2abcc0$42ed7240@svend>

Funny the last two mornings here ,   reminds me of flagstaff.

Nice crispy ( frosty ) morning. Big red ball slowly painting the 
horizon red.  -------Then   Bingo ---rolled up sleeves --- no heated
workshop needed.

Now Andrew put your hand on the bible and tell us that you have in your
hand the timing ring the camplate ---and all the little pieces !!!! .

There is no reason to take pump apart --for doing a stop leaking type job.

The top cover removed does make for a better job. Be careful there is a little 
clip to remove on Throttle arm connection.

My version on fueling is on the way.    Takes a lot of homework to get
it right. ---   Remember I was never an auto mechanic.

Hagar.

PS:  It is one of them Rabitdosious days here coming up.   Now  07 : 47 .
From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca  Sun Apr  4 10:56:18 2004
From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright)
Date: Sun Apr  4 10:56:19 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
In-Reply-To: <001b01c419fd$f91e0150$b072d1d8@derek>
Message-ID: <406FBF90.606.1EE94F6F@localhost>

On 3 Apr 2004 at 23:33, Derek <weasel1@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Although I realize that diagnosing a vibration over the internet is next to impossible, I appeal to your wisdom as I am at my wits end.   While driving if I make a slight right turn ( as in a curve )  I get a vibration that I can feel in the floorboards and is really audible. It would appear to be coming from the drivers side front area.  It is quite noticeable when the car is cold, but reduces somewhat when I have driven it for about ten minutes or so.  I thought that it might be my CV, but nope.  Noise was 
there before and is still there after a recent replacement.  I figured maybe its my tires, but nope again.  I just put my summer rims on and no dice.  Damned thing is still there.  I did notice something when I changed tires though.  I had a hard time lining up the bolt holes on the drives side.  I thought that a bit odd and don't remember that happening.  It would appear as though the locating screw is broken or missing. ( I came to that realization after I did the other side of the car and had already put the 
drivers side tires on, duh ... )  Could that darned little screw be causing this ?  I wonder if when the rim is tightened down does it put all the pressure on the rotor or on that little bit of the hub that pokes through the rotor ?  Either way I will repair or replace that screw tomorrow, but I wonder ...

I've driven without those screws for years. Sounds like wheel bearings. Try the 
suggested procedure of jacking up front end and running one at a time, but also try 
in Reverse. I have one slowly failing wheel bearing on the old '85 that would make 
some noise while driving, but actually make crunching noises in reverse - you could 
feel it when turning wheel by hand! 

--
Shawn Wright
http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"

From weasel1 at sympatico.ca  Sun Apr  4 13:13:03 2004
From: weasel1 at sympatico.ca (Derek)
Date: Sun Apr  4 13:13:04 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
References: <406FBF90.606.1EE94F6F@localhost>
Message-ID: <002001c41a68$12432dd0$8543d0d8@derek>

I have never changed the bearing on my A3, is it something I can do at home
?  Any special tools required ?

From koldrid at uvm.edu  Sun Apr  4 13:15:33 2004
From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid)
Date: Sun Apr  4 13:15:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] return line on 84 TD jetta
In-Reply-To: <00d801c4199a$60c41e20$0200a8c0@ccl475>
References: <000b01c4166e$60671b00$4aed7240@svend>
	<00d801c4199a$60c41e20$0200a8c0@ccl475>
Message-ID: <1081098931.407042b3183c1@webmail.uvm.edu>

I'm confused here,
I am replacing a bunch of fuel lines on my 84 jetta turbo diesel. I replaced the
fuel lines feeding and returning from the injection pump, as well as the small
injector lines. I topped up the filter with ATF and started her up. She was
having trouble purging air out of the new clear intake line I Installed. 
I wanted to see how much fuel was being returned, so I ran the return line from
the IP to a bottle. No fuel is coming out, regardless of RPM! I remember
reading about a clogged return bango, so I removed it for inspection. This
bango bolt was different than the mercedes; it had a hollow shaft, but no
perpendicular exit hole near the top? I don't understand how the IP can
exchange fuel through this thing!
Well, I decided to try starting with the bolt removed to observe fuel. It took a
few cranks to start. Nothing came out for a few seconds, and than a tidal wave
of diesel emerged. It was as if it was clogged and released all at once.
Put it all back together, and next to nothing seems to be returning? I did turn
the fuel enrich screw 1/4 CW, with otherwise great results.

Ken
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sun Apr  4 16:35:03 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sun Apr  4 16:35:05 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] return line on 84 TD jetta - ( Oldrid-- you are not
	reading archives )
Message-ID: <001801c41a84$2e98fd40$83ed7240@svend>


I wanted to see how much fuel was being returned,   On the 84 Jetta
with the BOSCH pump the returnflow is ---a lot .

Banjo should say " OUT "  on top.     And inside it has a filter for the orifice.

Take another look at stem of banjo  ---the hole is small . And if no hole let us know.

Hagar.
From koldrid at uvm.edu  Sun Apr  4 17:56:35 2004
From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid)
Date: Sun Apr  4 17:56:37 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] return line on 84 TD jetta - ( Oldrid-- you are not
	reading archives )
In-Reply-To: <001801c41a84$2e98fd40$83ed7240@svend>
References: <001801c41a84$2e98fd40$83ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <1081115792.407084909c362@webmail.uvm.edu>

Ok,
went thru archives and didn't find anything on clogged banjo's or the like. I
did see advice on filling IP from return banjo (good stuff).
My return banjo bolt does say out, and it does have a tiny orifice (thanks
Hagar). The screen appears to be clogged (cn't blow thru banjo). Can I remove
it? How have people dealt with this? Compressed air? 
I have a vacuum pump here. Can I pull fuel thru the injection pump out the
return side, if I supply power to the shut off valve? I thought this might pull
any crud out of the pump.
thanks,
Ken

> 
> I wanted to see how much fuel was being returned,   On the 84 Jetta
> with the BOSCH pump the returnflow is ---a lot .
> 
> Banjo should say " OUT "  on top.     And inside it has a filter for the
> orifice.
> 
> Take another look at stem of banjo  ---the hole is small . And if no hole let
> us know.
> 
> Hagar.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 


-- 

From hillsgrove at adelphia.net  Sun Apr  4 18:25:40 2004
From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove)
Date: Sun Apr  4 18:25:42 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
References: <406FBF90.606.1EE94F6F@localhost>
	<002001c41a68$12432dd0$8543d0d8@derek>
Message-ID: <002901c41a93$a1b19120$6600a8c0@lee>



> I have never changed the bearing on my A3, is it something I can do at
home
> ?  Any special tools required ?


  I just did both sides recently in my A3. Yes, you will need to either pull
the strut and knuckle assembly out and bring it to someone with a hydraulic
press or just do it on the car with a screw-type puller made for the
purpose. There is the possibility of fabricating a similar tool using a
hydraulic bottle jack, if you are handy and have access to metalworking
equipment. You'll also need a grinder or pneumatic chisel to get the outside
inner race off of the hub. Of course, a cement floor with a floor jack and
jackstands are really nice plus basic hand tools are going to be a given.

 I didn't have the puller myself but know a dealer tech, a fellow ham, who
brought his home as a favor.   :-))


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI


From r.c.brown at ieee.org  Sun Apr  4 18:28:04 2004
From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown)
Date: Sun Apr  4 18:28:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
References: <406FBF90.606.1EE94F6F@localhost>
	<002001c41a68$12432dd0$8543d0d8@derek>
	<002901c41a93$a1b19120$6600a8c0@lee>
Message-ID: <40708BED.A1A6185F@ieee.org>

Lee Hillsgrove wrote:
> 
> > I have never changed the bearing on my A3, is it something I can do at
> home
> > ?  Any special tools required ?
> 
>   I just did both sides recently in my A3. Yes, you will need to either pull
> the strut and knuckle assembly out and bring it to someone with a hydraulic
> press or just do it on the car with a screw-type puller made for the
> purpose. There is the possibility of fabricating a similar tool using a
> hydraulic bottle jack, if you are handy and have access to metalworking
> equipment. You'll also need a grinder or pneumatic chisel to get the outside
> inner race off of the hub. Of course, a cement floor with a floor jack and
> jackstands are really nice plus basic hand tools are going to be a given.
> 
>  I didn't have the puller myself but know a dealer tech, a fellow ham, who
> brought his home as a favor.   :-))

Here's how I did mine (A1):
	http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/FrontWheelBearing.shtml

-- 
   Roger
From koldrid at uvm.edu  Sun Apr  4 18:35:06 2004
From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid)
Date: Sun Apr  4 18:35:08 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] return line on 84 TD jetta - ( Oldrid-- you are not
	reading archives )
In-Reply-To: <1081115792.407084909c362@webmail.uvm.edu>
References: <001801c41a84$2e98fd40$83ed7240@svend>
	<1081115792.407084909c362@webmail.uvm.edu>
Message-ID: <1081118104.40708d98b7173@webmail.uvm.edu>

After some soaking, I'm now able to pull fluid thru the banjo using my vacuum
pump. This hole is miniscule! Not sure if the flow will be perfect. The hole is
much smaller than a pin, or else I would like to ream it out a little. I
imagine the hole size is important for pump pressure or something, so I'm
hesistant to alter it.

Ken 

> Ok,
> went thru archives and didn't find anything on clogged banjo's or the like.
> I
> did see advice on filling IP from return banjo (good stuff).
> My return banjo bolt does say out, and it does have a tiny orifice (thanks
> Hagar). The screen appears to be clogged (cn't blow thru banjo). Can I
> remove
> it? How have people dealt with this? Compressed air? 
> I have a vacuum pump here. Can I pull fuel thru the injection pump out the
> return side, if I supply power to the shut off valve? I thought this might
> pull
> any crud out of the pump.
> thanks,
> Ken
> 
> > 
> > I wanted to see how much fuel was being returned,   On the 84 Jetta
> > with the BOSCH pump the returnflow is ---a lot .
> > 
> > Banjo should say " OUT "  on top.     And inside it has a filter for the
> > orifice.
> > 
> > Take another look at stem of banjo  ---the hole is small . And if no hole
> let
> > us know.
> > 
> > Hagar.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 


-- 

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sun Apr  4 20:24:33 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sun Apr  4 20:24:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bad vibrations ...
Message-ID: <142.2609696a.2da2013c@aol.com>

  I FINALLY have good brakes on the Jetta but it went like this...
(Just think of Archie Campbell and Roy Clark doing this, for those of 
you who miss Hee Haw.)  ;-)

  The Jetta needs new brakes.
  Well, that's bad.
  No, That's good, I can get drums and disks for a really good price.
  That's good.
  No, that's bad.  I put on new pads, rotors, drums and bearings and 
the brakes still aren't very good.
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  A new Master cylinder should fix it. 
   Well, that's good. 
   No, that's bad.  It's no better than it was before. 
  That's bad.  No, that's good.  I still have a set of rear shoes to put on. 
  Oh, that's good.
  No that's bad.  I forgot I hadn't done them and misplaced them.  
  That's bad.  
  No, that's good.  I got a good two years use out of them even though 
the pedal was low and spongy. 
  Well, that's good. 
  No, that's bad.  The other day I went to get the summer tires out of 
the shed and when I came out the car had rolled into a tree.
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  It made me finally do something about the low pedal. 
   Well, that's good.
  No, that's bad.  I was at a loss as to what to do.  
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  While I was waiting for Dad to get home and take me 
down to get the car from the body shop, I found my brake shoes!
  That's good.
  No, that's bad.  I put on the new shoes and although I now had a working 
e-brake, the pedal was as bad or worse than ever.
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  I had an extra, used, master cylinder from the car, in
case that was the problem.
  That's good.
  No, that's bad.  The REASON I had an extra master cylinder was because
I'd replaced the old one and it didn't improve the brakes a bit.
 That's bad.
  No, that's good.  It gave me the assurance that I WOULD get those 
brakes working one way or another!
  That's good.
  No, that's bad.  I figured I needed to bleed the brakes but the kids were 
gone all day Saturday and the wife doesn't like helping on the cars.
  That's bad. 
  No, that's good.  She was willing to help so we got to tackle the problem 
AND spend a little time together. 
  That's good.  
  No, that's bad.  I went to bleed the RR cylinder and got very little flow 
but a fair amount of air.  
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  I was hoping it was just trapped air and it looked like 
it was. 
  That's good.
  No, that's bad.  When I went to the LR wheel I realized I STILL had very 
little flow from the RR wheel. 
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  I had her stomp the brakes a few times, held the 
proportioning valve open, got more air out and finally much more flow.
  That's good.
  No, that's bad.  When I went to do the fronts, she stomped down again
and I got a nice little spray of brake fluid all over me. 
  That's bad.
  No, that's good.  By the time we got all done (and the reservoir didn't 
even go empty!) I had a nice, high, firm brake pedal.  
  Well, THAT'S good.
  You're doggone right that's good!

  Now I just have to get used to NOT trying to put the pedal to the floor 
or I'll put my head into the windshield!  :)
  Just one more reason I don't care much for any of the one person 
methods for bleeding brakes.  I'd bled them myself when I put the 
master cylinder on.
     Loren
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  5 09:58:54 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Mon Apr  5 09:58:54 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] return line on 84 TD jetta - ( Oldrid-- you are not
	reading archives )
In-Reply-To: <1081118104.40708d98b7173@webmail.uvm.edu>
Message-ID: <20040405135849.27814.qmail@web80802.mail.yahoo.com>

I have a spare injection pump and I've been hesitant
to swap onto my Jetta TD since the inner (and outter)
diameter of the return line fitting is much smaller
than the one on the pump that is on the Jetta. I
wonder if the fitting is installed at the factory to
set the internal pressure. The spare came from a
Quantum and I have a Jetta. I wonder if transverse Vs.
longitudnal engine installation makes the difference
in pump orientation having an effect on internal pump
pressure.

I wounder if I should swap the return fittings if I
switch the pumps. Is the fitting size matched to the
pump, or pump location/orientation?

--Nate
--- "Kenneth E. Oldrid" <koldrid@uvm.edu> wrote:
> After some soaking, I'm now able to pull fluid thru
> the banjo using my vacuum
> pump. This hole is miniscule! Not sure if the flow
> will be perfect. The hole is
> much smaller than a pin, or else I would like to
> ream it out a little. I
> imagine the hole size is important for pump pressure
> or something, so I'm
> hesistant to alter it.
> 
> Ken 
> 
> > Ok,
> > went thru archives and didn't find anything on
> clogged banjo's or the like.
> > I
> > did see advice on filling IP from return banjo
> (good stuff).
> > My return banjo bolt does say out, and it does
> have a tiny orifice (thanks
> > Hagar). The screen appears to be clogged (cn't
> blow thru banjo). Can I
> > remove
> > it? How have people dealt with this? Compressed
> air? 
> > I have a vacuum pump here. Can I pull fuel thru
> the injection pump out the
> > return side, if I supply power to the shut off
> valve? I thought this might
> > pull
> > any crud out of the pump.
> > thanks,
> > Ken
> > 
> > > 
> > > I wanted to see how much fuel was being
> returned,   On the 84 Jetta
> > > with the BOSCH pump the returnflow is ---a lot .
> > > 
> > > Banjo should say " OUT "  on top.     And inside
> it has a filter for the
> > > orifice.
> > > 
> > > Take another look at stem of banjo  ---the hole
> is small . And if no hole
> > let
> > > us know.
> > > 
> > > Hagar.
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > >
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


__________________________________
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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr  5 10:50:12 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr  5 10:50:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump Bosch VE ---- ( The fuel sleeve for
	beginners )
Message-ID: <000201c41b1d$2f09f600$23ed7240@svend>

A bit back I promised to forward my take on "FUELING" a Rabbit.

A VW diesel has no restriction of airflow --- no ventury or the likes.
No butterfly valve.   So to regulate power its all fuel flow control. What regulates
fuel ?   " DA Sleeve "..   What regulates   " DA Sleeve " ?. The sleeve is a fair
hunk of iron that slides back and forth on piston. When the engine idles the
spillhole is open. As we step on the pedal we tell the governor to move the sleeve
to reduce spilling. -------- So what does the Fueling screw do ?  It sets the amount
of fuel to be injected over the whole range of  Load and RPM  ---the governor being in charge.      The fueling screw is super sensitive  ---total range about 5 turns.

Turn the screw lefthand "OUT" to reduce fueling  . So you do not know where you are at ?
no problem  . Turn screw "IN"  all the way ---then back out 3.5 turn.  That should be a good starting point. No smoke and lack of power ?  then screw it in a very small amount at the time till you are happy (she is happy) .  A very time consuming affair.If you
set carburetor mixture screws ---then you know how.

How far does the sleeve move from idle to full power ?  --about 1/8 inch.
That is a small move --so mechanical accuracy is important.

If you move fueling screw ---then Idle has to be reset.     So why is pedal not connected
to sleeve ?       Well it could be ---but it would be difficult to drive.

 Why do we need the Governor ?   --- maybe next time.

Hagar.  

PS:  The sleeve looks like a washer  1 inch diameter by 0.5 thick  hole
about 3/8  inch. 
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr  5 12:27:36 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr  5 12:27:38 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump Bosch VE ---- ( swapping pumps )
Message-ID: <000c01c41b2a$c976d0c0$33ed7240@svend>

I have a spare injection pump and I've been hesitant
to swap onto my Jetta TD since the inner (and outter)
diameter of the return line fitting is much smaller
than the one on the pump that is on the Jetta. I
wonder if the fitting is installed at the factory to
set the internal pressure. The spare came from a
Quantum and I have a Jetta. I wonder if transverse Vs.
longitudnal engine installation makes the difference
in pump orientation having an effect on internal pump
pressure.

I wounder if I should swap the return fittings if I
switch the pumps. Is the fitting size matched to the
pump, or pump location/orientation?

--Nate


Nate please post the numbers on pumps ----  then the total knowledge
here may just get you going.   The best part of diesels to me  , is that
any pump that will squirt fuel at the right time and amount will do.

So even the smallest pump will get an engine going . And the bigger pumps
can be regulated for the smallest engine.

We are getting in to " Hillbilly "  territory.      I experiment with pumps and
injectors just about every day. And so far I found no reason that any pump
any nozzle  in any combination.  Will not get you to the saltmine.

A while back I call Bosch Technical Support and asked
specifically where I could get good hard numbers for
tolerances and performance measurements for specific
injection pump models. I was told that the information
is proprietary and only released to Bosch Authroized
Injection Puump Repair Facilities.

--Nate

I like the statement from William A Thompson  --- is it bendover  info ?
yes indeed.  ---- Its like asking  Gates for the source code for windows.

Looking for the motherlode  --- here we go again.

We will find it due to the many skills found in this forum. It is to be found
at BOSCH in Germany or VOW  Germany. That may involve a little bit of
translation   ----  no problem. (and bribery)

The Bosch repair manual is out there and the numbers are listed for
all pumps.   The repairstation need them for the testrig.   

Lets see if we can get Loren to go spy a bit at the station he visited before.
He found out that different grades of vanes were available , last time.

Do not swap orifice without doing a bit of homework. Size of drainlines is
not critical.

I am having a ball , experimenting  ---- There are 3 VW  diesel running here
now ---- so if I screw up ?   --- I still get to town.

So what is different from one pump to the next ?   What does the letters at the end
indicate ? ---- Same basic pump  -- 107 A      Letter means pump is set up for
a certain engine --say 1.6L NA    --- On some turbo pumps the piston
is slightly bigger diameter.(more fuel)   Am I rambling ?  --yes I am am.


Hagar.
From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Mon Apr  5 12:50:41 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Mon Apr  5 12:50:43 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump Bosch VE ---- ( swapping pumps )
In-Reply-To: <000c01c41b2a$c976d0c0$33ed7240@svend>
References: <000c01c41b2a$c976d0c0$33ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <1081184361.29511.14.camel@gary.home.lan>

Nate,
Transverse or longitudinal makes no difference. If the pump numbers are
the same, then so are the internals (and externals).

The outlet banjo bolt does have a set-size bleed hole in it. However, it
is there to pass air, not so much fuel. If this hole does have some
bearing on internal pump pressure, I'm am most sure that it would be the
same size between all four-cylinder vw diesels.

If there were any variation in internal pressure, it would be
compensated for by changing the springs and/or shims in the timing
plunger section.

IMHO,

-Gary



 

On Mon, 2004-04-05 at 12:24, H.Hagar wrote:
> I have a spare injection pump and I've been hesitant
> to swap onto my Jetta TD since the inner (and outter)
> diameter of the return line fitting is much smaller
> than the one on the pump that is on the Jetta. I
> wonder if the fitting is installed at the factory to
> set the internal pressure. The spare came from a
> Quantum and I have a Jetta. I wonder if transverse Vs.
> longitudnal engine installation makes the difference
> in pump orientation having an effect on internal pump
> pressure.
> 
> I wounder if I should swap the return fittings if I
> switch the pumps. Is the fitting size matched to the
> pump, or pump location/orientation?
> 
> --Nate
> 
> 
> Nate please post the numbers on pumps ----  then the total knowledge
> here may just get you going.   The best part of diesels to me  , is that
> any pump that will squirt fuel at the right time and amount will do.
> 
> So even the smallest pump will get an engine going . And the bigger pumps
> can be regulated for the smallest engine.
> 
> We are getting in to " Hillbilly "  territory.      I experiment with pumps and
> injectors just about every day. And so far I found no reason that any pump
> any nozzle  in any combination.  Will not get you to the saltmine.
> 
> A while back I call Bosch Technical Support and asked
> specifically where I could get good hard numbers for
> tolerances and performance measurements for specific
> injection pump models. I was told that the information
> is proprietary and only released to Bosch Authroized
> Injection Puump Repair Facilities.
> 
> --Nate
> 
> I like the statement from William A Thompson  --- is it bendover  info ?
> yes indeed.  ---- Its like asking  Gates for the source code for windows.
> 
> Looking for the motherlode  --- here we go again.
> 
> We will find it due to the many skills found in this forum. It is to be found
> at BOSCH in Germany or VOW  Germany. That may involve a little bit of
> translation   ----  no problem. (and bribery)
> 
> The Bosch repair manual is out there and the numbers are listed for
> all pumps.   The repairstation need them for the testrig.   
> 
> Lets see if we can get Loren to go spy a bit at the station he visited before.
> He found out that different grades of vanes were available , last time.
> 
> Do not swap orifice without doing a bit of homework. Size of drainlines is
> not critical.
> 
> I am having a ball , experimenting  ---- There are 3 VW  diesel running here
> now ---- so if I screw up ?   --- I still get to town.
> 
> So what is different from one pump to the next ?   What does the letters at the end
> indicate ? ---- Same basic pump  -- 107 A      Letter means pump is set up for
> a certain engine --say 1.6L NA    --- On some turbo pumps the piston
> is slightly bigger diameter.(more fuel)   Am I rambling ?  --yes I am am.
> 
> 
> Hagar.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr  5 14:10:01 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr  5 14:10:02 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
Message-ID: <000d01c41b39$15d0ae60$4ced7240@svend>

Anyone see the recent VW sales figues lately? They are
not doing well at all. Customer satisfaction is way
down.
Nate Wall 


Does wisdom and insight apply ????   I think so.

It falls in to a class called " Blunders"  --- American sales advertising is to blame in part.
Economy --- is pushed , using FUEL consumption as a sales tool.

Lets take a look at Rolls Royce advertising  ---- a high quality automobile.
Reliable and good handling.

An owner phones London from Cairo saying that he wanted to order a new
axle. London say , Rolls axles do not break  ---Rolls flew out two mechanics
and axle was changed -- in short order.   
After some time owner contacted Rolls for the bill for the broken axle.
Response ?    --- NO bill --Rolls axles do not break.

I happen to like Volvo ---I grew up in the area.   How does American advertising
flog the thing ?   Sweden has gravel roads and the car last 11 years there.--crap.

The "Bunny" is a special case ------ Underline  VOLKS  (Sears cheap shit) --
it is not Maytag or Rolls.     We service what we sell --- crap.
Put together the bills for a Diesel Rabbit and then look at cost pr mile.

Did I say that the 1980 Rabbit diesel was the finest piece of transportation
ever made by man ???  --yes I did.    For us who know how to make them
purr.

VW Diesels are NOT a car for the masses (volks) in America or Canada.

In Europe (north) the training and certification of mechanic's are totally different
from here.

The culture in America started with the model "T"  and that corner gasjockey .
Even the best Gasoline mechanic is not qualified to keep a Rabbit diesel ---
or any diesel for that matter , going. Unless he is also a diesel mechanic.

The VW diesel is a fine piece of technology --(I love it) but it is utterly unforgiving.

Have I driven a " T "  ???  yes   " Goldenrod "  a racer in Seattle WA USA..
It had a full FORD maintenance manual with it.
And that was an eye opener --- shop charge in hours for everything was listed.
Totally stupid.   NO one could make a days pay at those numbers.

So sales are down ?  NO wonder ---- people do catch on eventually.

Damage to a " NAME " ?   yes..

Take the GM Oldsmobile diesel ---did it absolutely destroy the "NAME" ?
take a look at Olds now !!!. ----- A class "A" blunder.

Bosch got sucked in on this one.   The VE pumps are fine but utterly unforgiving.
Therein lies the VW dilemma in North America. Crappy fuel and crappy maintenance.

VW Rabbit electrical panel is a pile of crap. -------- do not get water on it.

The Turbo I use is  American -----  absolutely a fine piece of machinery. No problems
in that area.  "Garrett" -----sure works.

Was American  API  lubeoils ok ? for the 1980 Rabbits ?   yes no problem  Dino oils are
fine .   As the 1980 Rabbit gets old , dino is best dollar for dollar. To use SYN is a no no
from a money point of view.

Synthetic oils have been a disaster in the past ---- American advertising again.
So be careful.

The turbo is a special case ----- If you shut down a turbo red hot.----the heat travels along
the shaft to the bearing ---and it cooks the oil. In that case the  Mobil Delvac 1  is a better 
choice. BUT ? do you do that.?.   Do I own shares in Exxon ?   NO.

Synthetic Oils were invented say  1930 era , so why did it take   about 50 years to ban
production of some of them ?  ---- like pyranol askarel etc.   

So  Delvac 1 and scamzoils and what not will never be banned ???? --- think.

So the lube was not it ---- the FUEL and MAINTENANCE  and operator was.

So give me a brand new 1980 Rabbit --- and it will never rust and the engine and tranny
will do half a million miles without overhaul. ---- not bad for a peoples car.

Definition of fine piece of tranportation :    It works ----it looks ---   NICE
not like a CV 2 or a Messershit or a Beetle.     Or  Lloydwagen  or NSU Printz.
So there you got my opinion based on wisdom and insight   ------ and lets face it 
how do you beat the MODEL T in todays dollars.?. Great memories of the " Tin Lizzy ".

Cars are too cheap today --- really.  ---- yeah I know it is contradictory.

Hagar.

Wisdom from where ??? --  from a sum total of all the things I'v ever read and
experienced. --- in no small part from this forum.
From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Mon Apr  5 14:27:42 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Mon Apr  5 14:27:42 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
In-Reply-To: <000d01c41b39$15d0ae60$4ced7240@svend>
References: <000d01c41b39$15d0ae60$4ced7240@svend>
Message-ID: <1081190188.29654.6.camel@gary.home.lan>

Gee, I wonder why!?!

Owner: Mr Dealer man, I think my MAF is broken. I'm still under
warranty.

Dealer: It may be your MAF, but we will still stick you with a $75
diagnostic whether it is or not.

Dealer(alt response): You looked at me funny, we will not honor your
warranty. Go home.


-Gary  


On Mon, 2004-04-05 at 14:07, H.Hagar wrote:
> Anyone see the recent VW sales figues lately? They are
> not doing well at all. Customer satisfaction is way
> down.
> Nate Wall 
> 
> 
> Does wisdom and insight apply ????   I think so.
> 
> It falls in to a class called " Blunders"  --- American sales advertising is to blame in part.
> Economy --- is pushed , using FUEL consumption as a sales tool.
> 
> Lets take a look at Rolls Royce advertising  ---- a high quality automobile.
> Reliable and good handling.
> 
> An owner phones London from Cairo saying that he wanted to order a new
> axle. London say , Rolls axles do not break  ---Rolls flew out two mechanics
> and axle was changed -- in short order.   
> After some time owner contacted Rolls for the bill for the broken axle.
> Response ?    --- NO bill --Rolls axles do not break.
> 
> I happen to like Volvo ---I grew up in the area.   How does American advertising
> flog the thing ?   Sweden has gravel roads and the car last 11 years there.--crap.
> 
> The "Bunny" is a special case ------ Underline  VOLKS  (Sears cheap shit) --
> it is not Maytag or Rolls.     We service what we sell --- crap.
> Put together the bills for a Diesel Rabbit and then look at cost pr mile.
> 
> Did I say that the 1980 Rabbit diesel was the finest piece of transportation
> ever made by man ???  --yes I did.    For us who know how to make them
> purr.
> 
> VW Diesels are NOT a car for the masses (volks) in America or Canada.
> 
> In Europe (north) the training and certification of mechanic's are totally different
> from here.
> 
> The culture in America started with the model "T"  and that corner gasjockey .
> Even the best Gasoline mechanic is not qualified to keep a Rabbit diesel ---
> or any diesel for that matter , going. Unless he is also a diesel mechanic.
> 
> The VW diesel is a fine piece of technology --(I love it) but it is utterly unforgiving.
> 
> Have I driven a " T "  ???  yes   " Goldenrod "  a racer in Seattle WA USA..
> It had a full FORD maintenance manual with it.
> And that was an eye opener --- shop charge in hours for everything was listed.
> Totally stupid.   NO one could make a days pay at those numbers.
> 
> So sales are down ?  NO wonder ---- people do catch on eventually.
> 
> Damage to a " NAME " ?   yes..
> 
> Take the GM Oldsmobile diesel ---did it absolutely destroy the "NAME" ?
> take a look at Olds now !!!. ----- A class "A" blunder.
> 
> Bosch got sucked in on this one.   The VE pumps are fine but utterly unforgiving.
> Therein lies the VW dilemma in North America. Crappy fuel and crappy maintenance.
> 
> VW Rabbit electrical panel is a pile of crap. -------- do not get water on it.
> 
> The Turbo I use is  American -----  absolutely a fine piece of machinery. No problems
> in that area.  "Garrett" -----sure works.
> 
> Was American  API  lubeoils ok ? for the 1980 Rabbits ?   yes no problem  Dino oils are
> fine .   As the 1980 Rabbit gets old , dino is best dollar for dollar. To use SYN is a no no
> from a money point of view.
> 
> Synthetic oils have been a disaster in the past ---- American advertising again.
> So be careful.
> 
> The turbo is a special case ----- If you shut down a turbo red hot.----the heat travels along
> the shaft to the bearing ---and it cooks the oil. In that case the  Mobil Delvac 1  is a better 
> choice. BUT ? do you do that.?.   Do I own shares in Exxon ?   NO.
> 
> Synthetic Oils were invented say  1930 era , so why did it take   about 50 years to ban
> production of some of them ?  ---- like pyranol askarel etc.   
> 
> So  Delvac 1 and scamzoils and what not will never be banned ???? --- think.
> 
> So the lube was not it ---- the FUEL and MAINTENANCE  and operator was.
> 
> So give me a brand new 1980 Rabbit --- and it will never rust and the engine and tranny
> will do half a million miles without overhaul. ---- not bad for a peoples car.
> 
> Definition of fine piece of tranportation :    It works ----it looks ---   NICE
> not like a CV 2 or a Messershit or a Beetle.     Or  Lloydwagen  or NSU Printz.
> So there you got my opinion based on wisdom and insight   ------ and lets face it 
> how do you beat the MODEL T in todays dollars.?. Great memories of the " Tin Lizzy ".
> 
> Cars are too cheap today --- really.  ---- yeah I know it is contradictory.
> 
> Hagar.
> 
> Wisdom from where ??? --  from a sum total of all the things I'v ever read and
> experienced. --- in no small part from this forum.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From dieselwesty at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  5 15:24:44 2004
From: dieselwesty at yahoo.com (82 Diesel Westy)
Date: Mon Apr  5 15:24:45 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injector lines.   --- ( you got my attention )
In-Reply-To: <dc.743f032.2da0a9a7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20040405192441.65613.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com>

Always seems to be twice in my book.  I'm rebuilding
my beetle motor for the 3rd time in 10 years, just
because I wanted that dam thermostat to work, did
nothing but overheat the motor and blow my rear main
seal this last time.

I will leave the dam thing off from now on.



=====
Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp
82 Westfalia Diesel, 1.9L NA hybrid, under body restoration & engine re-work
90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD
70 Type 1 Beetle

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
From dieselwesty at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  5 15:32:54 2004
From: dieselwesty at yahoo.com (82 Diesel Westy)
Date: Mon Apr  5 15:32:56 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Here it the response I got from Castrol consumer
	relations about 505.01
In-Reply-To: <BAY10-DAV4Nzq6xEfhz00023821@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20040405193252.69333.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com>


VW only plans to sell roughly 1,200 units annually of
the "Pumpe-duese" equipped VW Jetta's and Passat's
that would require the 505.01 lubricant.
The 505.01 engine oil is specifically formulated to
ensure protection of the cam lobes that drive the unit
injectors. High loading requires the proper level of
antiwear protection. In turn VW needs to ensure that
505.01 is utilized for this engine design. The cam
shafts are mechanically driven and assist in the build
up of fuel pressure in each injector
Castrol 505 01 is not available through Castrol in
North America. Castrol is supplying Castrol 505 01 and
this product is available through VW dealerships who
order the product from Europe.   It is branded as
Castrol 505 01 oil and has a VW part number (G 052
167A2).
 
Thanks all, 


=====
Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp
82 Westfalia Diesel, 1.9L NA hybrid, under body restoration & engine re-work
90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD
70 Type 1 Beetle

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
From dieseltdi at earthlink.net  Mon Apr  5 16:40:11 2004
From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen)
Date: Mon Apr  5 16:40:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Here it the response I got from Castrol
	consumerrelations about 505.01
References: <20040405193252.69333.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001201c41b4e$2cb401d0$1da2a00a@ALL.DISTTCCD.NET>

My dealer is selling MOTUL Specific 505.01 for $120 per case of 4 - 5 liter
bottles.  No way I would put that castrol crap in my car.  To much bad juju
from what it did to the regular tdi's, can't imagine how bad it would be in
the PD's.  Hayden
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "82 Diesel Westy" <dieselwesty@yahoo.com>
To: "TexasTDI" <texasvwdriver@hotmail.com>
Cc: <Vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:32 PM
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Here it the response I got from Castrol
consumerrelations about 505.01


>
> VW only plans to sell roughly 1,200 units annually of
> the "Pumpe-duese" equipped VW Jetta's and Passat's
> that would require the 505.01 lubricant.
> The 505.01 engine oil is specifically formulated to
> ensure protection of the cam lobes that drive the unit
> injectors. High loading requires the proper level of
> antiwear protection. In turn VW needs to ensure that
> 505.01 is utilized for this engine design. The cam
> shafts are mechanically driven and assist in the build
> up of fuel pressure in each injector
> Castrol 505 01 is not available through Castrol in
> North America. Castrol is supplying Castrol 505 01 and
> this product is available through VW dealerships who
> order the product from Europe.   It is branded as
> Castrol 505 01 oil and has a VW part number (G 052
> 167A2).
>
> Thanks all,
>
>
> =====
> Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
> 04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp
> 82 Westfalia Diesel, 1.9L NA hybrid, under body restoration & engine
re-work
> 90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD
> 70 Type 1 Beetle
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Mon Apr  5 18:28:42 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Mon Apr  5 18:28:43 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Looking for Advice
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808665@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>


I recently picked-up an '84 Rabbit with a thrashed 1.6NA and need an
engine.  I have now come across another 1.6 engine with hydraulic
lifters in an '85 Jetta (obviously not the original engine).  In short,
the engine cranks right up and smooths-out quickly.  It hadn't been
started in a couple of weeks.  Upon closer inspection the oil is globby
as it passes over the plastic valve baffle.  There is no evidence of oil
in the oil or the overflow tank.  The engine smokes a bit when revved-
and continues to smoke some with rpm's raised (greyish blue) but not too
bad.  I can't drive it as one of the CV's is out.  The engine appears to
be a later model as it has the long dipstick and round plastic air box.
What do you all think about this?  It sounds pretty good- a continual
clunk sound that I couldn't track-down but I also couldn't hear it
coming from the engine core or valves with a screwdriver.  The clunk
sounded like it was coming from around the timing belt area.  Any input
would be appreciated.  I can buy it for around $500 USD.

Chuck

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Mon Apr  5 21:25:23 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Mon Apr  5 21:25:25 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Looking for Advice
Message-ID: <7c.445af1e9.2da360f7@wmconnect.com>

Try taking off accessory belt/s and seeing if clunk goes away.  Is the engine 
$500 or the whole car?  How much is money an issue for you?  Who do you know? 
 Have you called all the import auto parts places in your area? Have you 
called/befriended all of the import repair facilities in your area?  Do you make 
beer?  Do you give it away for fun?  Do you really need another volkswagen 
(that was my wife talking)?  What region are you in?  Back east I could get any 
number of decent motors for great prices (in 10 years the whole body is rusted 
out from salt- more cars go to the junkyard for rust than for accidents). Here 
in AZ where I now live, the bodies are nice, but you can't find a decent 
motor.  Anyway, good luck, I wonder if I was any help at all.  Andrew
From hillsgrove at adelphia.net  Mon Apr  5 21:28:24 2004
From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove)
Date: Mon Apr  5 21:28:26 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
References: <000d01c41b39$15d0ae60$4ced7240@svend>
Message-ID: <005001c41b76$55314640$6600a8c0@lee>


----- Original Message -----
From: "H.Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:07 PM
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )


>

>Synthetic oils have been a disaster in the past ---- American advertising
again.
>So be careful.
>
>The turbo is a special case ----- If you shut down a turbo red hot.----the
heat travels along
>the shaft to the bearing ---and it cooks the oil. In that case the  Mobil
Delvac 1  is a better
>choice. BUT ? do you do that.?.   Do I own shares in Exxon ?   NO.
>
>Synthetic Oils were invented say  1930 era , so why did it take   about 50
years to ban
>production of some of them ?  ---- like pyranol askarel etc.
>
>So  Delvac 1 and scamzoils and what not will never be banned ???? ---
think.
>



  To which I say..... Huh?

  I didn't catch a bit of the thrust of that whole passage. Except that a
hot turbo will coke the bearings.


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI


From dieseltdi at earthlink.net  Mon Apr  5 21:38:11 2004
From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen)
Date: Mon Apr  5 21:38:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Caddy breathes and sticks to the road
Message-ID: <09085378-876B-11D8-93DD-000A959B975C@earthlink.net>

Just did a bit more tweaking to the caddy this weekend and tonight.  
First on Saturday, I had a 2 1/4" exhaust system from the downpipe back 
added.  I opted for a straight through glass pack instead of a turbo 
muffler but it is not loud at all, just a low rumble.  I had them 
straighten the path as much as possible so no the exhaust pipe exists 
out under the rear bumper.   This really allows the turbo to spool up 
much quicker and my son says that you can even hear it when I get on it 
going down the street.  On one really hard fast run on the highway, I 
even bumped the wastegate open at a bit over 10 psi., sounded kind of 
funny.  The large pipe has also allowed the EGTs to come down a bit and 
cool off much faster after a full throttle run.  Then tonight I added a 
front stabilizer bar from an 87 Scirocco.  I had to reroute the brake 
lines and the fuel lines to get it on but it sure makes a difference in 
the handling.  I will need to crawl back under later to zip tie and 
cushion  the lines a bit for protection.  Next will be to relocate the 
battery and mount the SAAB intercooler and fan.  Then things can get 
interesting.  BTW despite what I posted last week, we still haven't 
received our Passat TDI yet.  It is at the port and I have a VIN but so 
far, VW has not released any of them for delivery yet.  Don't know the 
problem and neither does the dealer. It has been in at the port since 
3/22.  Oh well, it will get here when it gets here.  hayden

Visit my website at  www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi
Proud owner of:
2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 16 valve, 134 HP, 247 lbs/ft of torque, Blue 
Graphite, Anthracite leather interior, ABS, ESP on the truck and on the 
way to me!   :^)
1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane 
dual fuel system, 109K+ miles, and running biodiesel)
1981 Rabbit Pickup ( with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine), Will burn 
biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system.
One, yet to be finished, Caddy trailer (the back end of the truck that 
gave its life to my just completed Rabbit Pickup).
And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle (11 Beetles total), to 
Vans (5), Rabbits (3), Karmen Ghia (1), Jettas (5), Passat (1), Dasher 
(1), New Beetle (1), and Rabbit Pickups (3) most now gone but not 
forgotten.

From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Mon Apr  5 22:24:21 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Mon Apr  5 22:24:22 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
In-Reply-To: <005001c41b76$55314640$6600a8c0@lee>
References: <000d01c41b39$15d0ae60$4ced7240@svend>
	<005001c41b76$55314640$6600a8c0@lee>
Message-ID: <20040406022420.GB5036@cybershamanix.com>

> From: "H.Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:07 PM
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
> 
> 
> >
> 
> >Synthetic oils have been a disaster in the past ---- American advertising
> again.
> >So be careful.

   Say what? Synthetics are the only thing I'd ever put in an engine -- unless
it was real beat out leaker or oil burner. 



-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Tue Apr  6 02:48:27 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 02:48:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Caddy breathes and sticks to the road
Message-ID: <9e.7739137.2da3acb5@aol.com>


> Then tonight I added a 
> front stabilizer bar from an 87 Scirocco. 

  Is that an upper or lower bar?  I'm presuming lower.  Been meaning to 
do one of those but for lack of compiled, organized time.  I've heard 
the lower can really make a difference.  
  Today the exhaust dropped off the turbo on Dad's pu.  :(  I was driving it 
and as I entered a parking garage, I smelled the nice smell of VW 
diesel exhaust.  :)  Didn't notice the noise since I just pulled in and the 
radio was on as well.  Most of the studs snapped.  So, it's time to 
rebuild the immediate exit piece. Been needing to since it's first 
install.  I used a 2 1/2" tight radius, weld elbow.  The ID was nice but 
the OD was too big to get all the nuts back on the flange. 3 is NOT 
enough.  :P  Have to use some smaller stuff and maybe a short 
extension this time.  Trial and error...
     Loren
From dmacarthur at igc.org  Tue Apr  6 06:35:34 2004
From: dmacarthur at igc.org (Dan MacArthur)
Date: Tue Apr  6 06:35:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: best car ever made
In-Reply-To: <20040406012829.A4BC9652CA@audifans.com>
Message-ID: <l03130301bc9860909d52@[216.204.74.145]>

Hagar says that the '80 Rabbit is the best, I have to disagree I firmly believe that the '81 was better- they had better brakes, better exhaust hook-ups, better looking front ends etc! So there!


From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com  Tue Apr  6 10:21:26 2004
From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich)
Date: Tue Apr  6 10:21:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Looking for advice
Message-ID: <Sea2-F36UbLjX2YSiOu0000d76a@hotmail.com>

Wow, sounds like a supply and demand thing...$500 USD would buy a decent 
running car around here with a good motor and car to go with it! I find 
motors for $100 regularily now due to the number of rusted and tired looking 
cars around here (Ottawa, Ontario), and the engines are good! It really 
should not smoke like that BUT if the oil is dirty and air filter clogged 
and injectors neglected it might be worth the risk if it were cheaper 
(IMHO). Remember it is cheap to rebuild a n/a diesel, under $1000 for 
everything done right, which is the better path?
How much blow by is there? Take off the oil cap with engine running and 
squeeze the hose on the valve cover, it the cap bounces off/gets blown away 
it has too much blow by (worn rings). Look around the fuel injectors for 
cracks in the head (threaded area), are there oil leaks around the dipstick 
(or signs of oil coming out the dipstick tube) signs of blow by, borrow an 
oil pressure guage (seriously ) and remove the cyl head oil pressure sender, 
sound have 29 psi @2000 rpm minimum, look for around 20 psi at idle.
Hope this helps
Greg

>Message: 6
>Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:28:36 -0600
>From: "Chuck Carnohan" <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>
>Subject: [Vwdiesel] Looking for Advice
>To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
>Message-ID:
>	<1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808665@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
>Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
>
>I recently picked-up an '84 Rabbit with a thrashed 1.6NA and need an
>engine.  I have now come across another 1.6 engine with hydraulic
>lifters in an '85 Jetta (obviously not the original engine).  In short,
>the engine cranks right up and smooths-out quickly.  It hadn't been
>started in a couple of weeks.  Upon closer inspection the oil is globby
>as it passes over the plastic valve baffle.  There is no evidence of oil
>in the oil or the overflow tank.  The engine smokes a bit when revved-
>and continues to smoke some with rpm's raised (greyish blue) but not too
>bad.  I can't drive it as one of the CV's is out.  The engine appears to
>be a later model as it has the long dipstick and round plastic air box.
>What do you all think about this?  It sounds pretty good- a continual
>clunk sound that I couldn't track-down but I also couldn't hear it
>coming from the engine core or valves with a screwdriver.  The clunk
>sounded like it was coming from around the timing belt area.  Any input
>would be appreciated.  I can buy it for around $500 USD.
>
>Chuck
>
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
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From dieselwesty at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  6 10:30:36 2004
From: dieselwesty at yahoo.com (82 Diesel Westy)
Date: Tue Apr  6 10:30:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Caddy breathes and sticks to the road
In-Reply-To: <09085378-876B-11D8-93DD-000A959B975C@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20040406143033.6278.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com>

Sound like a very nice motor Hayden.  I did not know
VW was re-instroducing the Passat with TDI PD motor
this year.  Smart on thier part, they will sell.
The Jetta Wagon is a step down in price but all 04
TDI's are GLS interior and I went for the extra 1k to
do the heated leather seats.

Aside from a few body/interior creaks, the car is
great and made right along side the Passats at the
Wolfsburg factory.

Bryan


--- Hayden Chasteen <dieseltdi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Just did a bit more tweaking to the caddy this
> weekend and tonight.  
> First on Saturday, I had a 2 1/4" exhaust system
> from the downpipe back 
> added.  I opted for a straight through glass pack
> instead of a turbo 
> muffler but it is not loud at all, just a low
> rumble.  I had them 
> straighten the path as much as possible so no the
> exhaust pipe exists 
> out under the rear bumper.   This really allows the
> turbo to spool up 
> much quicker and my son says that you can even hear
> it when I get on it 
> going down the street.  On one really hard fast run
> on the highway, I 
> even bumped the wastegate open at a bit over 10
> psi., sounded kind of 
> funny.  The large pipe has also allowed the EGTs to
> come down a bit and 
> cool off much faster after a full throttle run. 
> Then tonight I added a 
> front stabilizer bar from an 87 Scirocco.  I had to
> reroute the brake 
> lines and the fuel lines to get it on but it sure
> makes a difference in 
> the handling.  I will need to crawl back under later
> to zip tie and 
> cushion  the lines a bit for protection.  Next will
> be to relocate the 
> battery and mount the SAAB intercooler and fan. 
> Then things can get 
> interesting.  BTW despite what I posted last week,
> we still haven't 
> received our Passat TDI yet.  It is at the port and
> I have a VIN but so 
> far, VW has not released any of them for delivery
> yet.  Don't know the 
> problem and neither does the dealer. It has been in
> at the port since 
> 3/22.  Oh well, it will get here when it gets here. 
> hayden
> 
> Visit my website at 
> www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi
> Proud owner of:
> 2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 16 valve, 134 HP, 247
> lbs/ft of torque, Blue 
> Graphite, Anthracite leather interior, ABS, ESP on
> the truck and on the 
> way to me!   :^)
> 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust,
> K&N Filter, propane 
> dual fuel system, 109K+ miles, and running
> biodiesel)
> 1981 Rabbit Pickup ( with a freshly rebuilt turbo
> engine), Will burn 
> biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system.
> One, yet to be finished, Caddy trailer (the back end
> of the truck that 
> gave its life to my just completed Rabbit Pickup).
> And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle (11
> Beetles total), to 
> Vans (5), Rabbits (3), Karmen Ghia (1), Jettas (5),
> Passat (1), Dasher 
> (1), New Beetle (1), and Rabbit Pickups (3) most now
> gone but not 
> forgotten.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
From cz at ozarkisp.net  Tue Apr  6 10:50:10 2004
From: cz at ozarkisp.net (Brock)
Date: Tue Apr  6 10:50:11 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's
Message-ID: <007b01c41be6$593cc780$ad03db40@brock>

Anyone know of a good site like this for air cooled VW's?

Thanks,

Brock
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 11:27:44 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 11:27:45 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] best car ever made  -- rating by      Dan MacArthur 
Message-ID: <000c01c41beb$949258e0$19ed7240@svend>

81 ?  is best ?   OK  I stand to be corrected.    (I never seen a 1981 Rabbit.)

The four door models made in Germany ---- is what I am talking about.

I have two Rabbits made in Germany and two made in USA. ---- need I say more ?

The USA models are no labor of love. ---shitty material shitty fitting  shitty paint
shitty headliners.    And I am only comparing what I got.  I saw a film from Germany
and they completely submerged the body in a tank of paint. That means painted inside and
out. ----Do the do that in America ?   --I wonder.  

The Rabbit looks good handles good -- is roomy  ----and that hatch ?  got a love it.
Hell I carried a freezer one day.  

I am a young geezer going on 72 ----  when I first came to the "Wonderful America"
in 1953 it was a car crazy culture ---and I got infected. ( NO cure now)

Did I say BEST car ever made ?  --- gee I never say things like that.  That would
be Rolls , Cadillac, Lincoln Continental , Porche ,Mercedes ,BMW , Honda Prelude
you get the drift.       The most important car of ALL time has to go to  ---
"Tin Lizzy"   One could look up  cheapest car ever sold --- It is not a VW.

Did foreign carmakers set up shop in America by choice ???  not in my memory.
It was by armtwisting.      Look up Rolls --- VW --- and many more .
It worked ? --- the cost is too high period.--so it never really worked out.   
I compared a Honda made in Japan and one made in USA. -----Louanne got
the Japanese ( I am the fixer) Her girlfriend brings in her brand new Honda
Accord made in USA.  ----nuff said.

Hagar. 

PS:  Is the 1981 made in Germany ?.
From iscass at shaw.ca  Tue Apr  6 11:39:22 2004
From: iscass at shaw.ca (cass)
Date: Tue Apr  6 11:39:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] injector lines.   -- weird
References: <000b01c4166e$60671b00$4aed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <002e01c41bed$5118dec0$0200a8c0@ccl475>


hi all..
just wanted to let everyone know..(cause i know the wondering is killing you...)
after trying several different hard lines to stop leak, now specifically #2 injector
 ..( new injectors..)
(and several  new / different  return lines)
i kept thinking i had it sealed...would give it a lil rev..
and it would leak(allot)
on closer closer closer inspection..i noticed one of the return..nipples?
was not bent..but wiggled just a bit up and down...so when it was revved..it would pop up a bit n leak like crazy...just idling, and it wouldn't leak.
anyway.....covered by warranty...problem fixed :o)


thanks for everyone's help..
cassie
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr  6 11:51:49 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr  6 11:51:50 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's
In-Reply-To: <007b01c41be6$593cc780$ad03db40@brock>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOGEFEEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Nope, but you might want to ask aircooled questions anyway, there's a lot of
old airheads here.

Hmm, that didn't come out right...

-James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of Brock
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 8:49 AM
> To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's
>
>
> Anyone know of a good site like this for air cooled VW's?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brock
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 12:28:22 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 12:28:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? ) tounge in
	cheek.
Message-ID: <000201c41bf4$0f6899a0$8aed7240@svend>

I had just come from the dentist  --- me a young geezer going on 72 , 
and he holds up a fancy xray in front of me and --- I quote  "You got wisdom".

Her I still have a class a one wisdom's-tooth . Looked like the best tooth in my mouth.

Anyway the thread was about declining popularity of VW in America.

And in the mains I agree that there is a problem  --- her is my first hand account.

With the 1984 1.6L Turbo Rabbit I got "The Bills" from previous owners.   Rip off
shameless overcharging.  Now did the stealership do a GOOD job ???  yes.
But very expensive.

Harmon and LEE    do not take it too seriously about SYN.
It is a comment on the disasters in the past ---enviromental disasters.
The performance of the products were superb.

Hagar.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Tue Apr  6 12:34:01 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 12:34:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] best car ever made  -- rating by      Dan MacArthur 
Message-ID: <83.8c1eda8.2da435f0@aol.com>


> The USA models are no labor of love. ---shitty material shitty fitting  
> shitty paint
> shitty headliners.   And I am only comparing what I got.  I saw a film from 
> Germany
> and they completely submerged the body in a tank of paint. That means 
> painted inside and out. ----Do the do that in America ?   --I wonder.  
> 

  Gee, almost sounds like USA bashing.  ;-)  Having done a repaint on both 
an 80 and an 81 I can safely say that neither car was "dip" painted.  
Maybe some rust proofing but not the paint nor primer. My 81 had 
a pip of rust at the bottom of every paint chip.  Jake's 81 had a pip of 
primer.  Much better there.  The headliners suck but that had nothing 
to do with the factory.  That would be head of design.  Yup, bad design.
There's always the option of doing like Jake did.  Visit the wrecking 
yard on a warm day and find yourself a good, used, early headliner.

  Do I preffer an 80?  Yup again.  Then, I own one but the headliner is 
a big point.  I like the grille better but it's the horizontal lines one on 
mine.  Jake couldn't believe how much better mine handled than his.  
Mine was stock and his was slightly modified at that point.  I tend 
to like the chrome bumpers with lights in them over the wrap around 
fender lights.  83 actually has some advantages over the 81.  Dome 
light and "bolt through" vent windows rather than the "glue on" ones.

  AFIK the 80 and 81 have the same brakes.  Some Rabbits up to 
81 have the ATE brakes, which are a two piston design.  Smaller 
pads but I like them better. Mostly for the ease of changing pads 
and the dual piston rather than one and a slide arrangement.  Heavy 
Mercedes' stop on about the same size pad so I guess size doesn't 
matter.  ;-)

  I also tend to like the 6 bolt flange over the spring clip one.  Yeah, 
I usually break a stud but it's still not that bad plus the flow design of
the manifold and downpipe is so much better over the 81.  It's so good 
that all the "kids" out there looking for a better stock manifold arrangement 

go to the pre 81 setup.
     Loren
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  6 12:41:37 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Tue Apr  6 12:41:38 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Caddy breathes and sticks to the road
In-Reply-To: <20040406143033.6278.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20040406164133.61879.qmail@web80805.mail.yahoo.com>

Interesting, the 04 Jetta Wagon is made in Germany?
How is the build quality? I have an 04 Jetta TDI
sedan. Its made in Mexico and it apears that the build
quality is lower than my '85 Jetta TD that was made in
Germany.

--Nate
--- 82 Diesel Westy <dieselwesty@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Sound like a very nice motor Hayden.  I did not know
> VW was re-instroducing the Passat with TDI PD motor
> this year.  Smart on thier part, they will sell.
> The Jetta Wagon is a step down in price but all 04
> TDI's are GLS interior and I went for the extra 1k
> to
> do the heated leather seats.
> 
> Aside from a few body/interior creaks, the car is
> great and made right along side the Passats at the
> Wolfsburg factory.
> 
> Bryan
> 
> 
> --- Hayden Chasteen <dieseltdi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > Just did a bit more tweaking to the caddy this
> > weekend and tonight.  
> > First on Saturday, I had a 2 1/4" exhaust system
> > from the downpipe back 
> > added.  I opted for a straight through glass pack
> > instead of a turbo 
> > muffler but it is not loud at all, just a low
> > rumble.  I had them 
> > straighten the path as much as possible so no the
> > exhaust pipe exists 
> > out under the rear bumper.   This really allows
> the
> > turbo to spool up 
> > much quicker and my son says that you can even
> hear
> > it when I get on it 
> > going down the street.  On one really hard fast
> run
> > on the highway, I 
> > even bumped the wastegate open at a bit over 10
> > psi., sounded kind of 
> > funny.  The large pipe has also allowed the EGTs
> to
> > come down a bit and 
> > cool off much faster after a full throttle run. 
> > Then tonight I added a 
> > front stabilizer bar from an 87 Scirocco.  I had
> to
> > reroute the brake 
> > lines and the fuel lines to get it on but it sure
> > makes a difference in 
> > the handling.  I will need to crawl back under
> later
> > to zip tie and 
> > cushion  the lines a bit for protection.  Next
> will
> > be to relocate the 
> > battery and mount the SAAB intercooler and fan. 
> > Then things can get 
> > interesting.  BTW despite what I posted last week,
> > we still haven't 
> > received our Passat TDI yet.  It is at the port
> and
> > I have a VIN but so 
> > far, VW has not released any of them for delivery
> > yet.  Don't know the 
> > problem and neither does the dealer. It has been
> in
> > at the port since 
> > 3/22.  Oh well, it will get here when it gets
> here. 
> > hayden
> > 
> > Visit my website at 
> > www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi
> > Proud owner of:
> > 2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 16 valve, 134 HP, 247
> > lbs/ft of torque, Blue 
> > Graphite, Anthracite leather interior, ABS, ESP on
> > the truck and on the 
> > way to me!   :^)
> > 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2"
> exhaust,
> > K&N Filter, propane 
> > dual fuel system, 109K+ miles, and running
> > biodiesel)
> > 1981 Rabbit Pickup ( with a freshly rebuilt turbo
> > engine), Will burn 
> > biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system.
> > One, yet to be finished, Caddy trailer (the back
> end
> > of the truck that 
> > gave its life to my just completed Rabbit Pickup).
> > And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle (11
> > Beetles total), to 
> > Vans (5), Rabbits (3), Karmen Ghia (1), Jettas
> (5),
> > Passat (1), Dasher 
> > (1), New Beetle (1), and Rabbit Pickups (3) most
> now
> > gone but not 
> > forgotten.
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


__________________________________
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Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  6 12:46:55 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Tue Apr  6 12:46:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Looking for advice
In-Reply-To: <Sea2-F36UbLjX2YSiOu0000d76a@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <20040406164653.48396.qmail@web80804.mail.yahoo.com>

<<<I find motors for $100 regularily now due to the
number of rusted and tired looking cars around here
(Ottawa, Ontario), and the engines are good!>>>

I live in Northern Virginia (right outside of
Washington, DC). I called a few local salvage yards
three years ago and asked if they had a VW diesel
motor for sale. They must not be common around here (I
can not remember the last time I saw a VW IDI diesel
on the road, other than mine here) and at about the
fifth call I located one. It was a non-turbo motor
from a Golf that had about 135,000 miles on it. Get
this, the salvage yard wanted $1,200 US dollars for
it! And that was with me picking it up!

--Nate

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 12:54:35 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 12:54:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's --- ( I am with James ---so there
	BROCK shoot )
Message-ID: <000201c41bf7$b938dc80$76ed7240@svend>

Nope, but you might want to ask air-cooled questions anyway, there's a lot of
old airheads here.

Hmm, that didn't come out right...
- James.

No "airhead"  No diesel as simple as that.    Being the owner of a Gyrocopter ---
powered by a  1600 cc Twin Carb  VW  airhead ---let me say it is a fine engine.
But my next Gyro will be diesel ----LOL.

I suspect there is a forum for airheads.     But a lot of the fellas here came this way
via the BEETLE .   And the " Ryebread "    --- so you can expect some help.

Hagar.

PS:  My next Gyro engine will be a Gas  Rotax.
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 13:04:53 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 13:04:53 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's
In-Reply-To: <007b01c41be6$593cc780$ad03db40@brock>
References: <007b01c41be6$593cc780$ad03db40@brock>
Message-ID: <20040406170453.GA6444@cybershamanix.com>

   If you go to http://www.type2.com you will find the type2 and vintage bus
lists, which, of course, are all aircooled and (mostly) all the same engines as
in the bugs. Tremendous lot of knowledgable people there. Also at vanagon.com,
there is some aircooled discussion, as the early vanagons were aircooled. 
  Also there usenet -- alt.autos.makers.vw.aircooled and maybe others.


On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 09:49:21AM -0500, Brock wrote:
> Anyone know of a good site like this for air cooled VW's?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brock
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com

From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Tue Apr  6 13:13:14 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Tue Apr  6 13:13:15 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Looking for advice
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808668@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

This is getting interesting!  So, how hard are good 1.6na diesels to
come by?  Here in the West they are scarce and wrecking yards that have
one ask $600.00- I have seen them advertised in the Minneapolis-StPaul
area for $350.00.  It makes sense that the engines are more plentiful
back east with the rust and, the number of vehicles registered over the
years (population dynamics).  So, according to kind response to my
original question about this engine, I think I will pass as the dip
stick tube where it enters the block is leaking, some pressure is noted
when the oil fill cap is removed and a bit of smoke also emanates
briefly.  I just thought that the "O" ring on the dipstick tube needed
replacement but the pressure at the oil cap sounds like a determination
of unacceptable blow-by?  It sure did start easy though for a
low-compression engine.  Warm day (70 degrees) in the sunshine helps a
lot I'm sure.  I'm hard-pressed to pay 5 or 6 hundred dollars for an
engine when the last one I got was $300 with the pickup attached!  Lucky
scrounge, I know! I just don't want to be stupid and let a good engine
slip away.....

Chuck

-----Original Message-----
From: Nate Wall [mailto:natewall1@yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 10:47 AM
To: greg rich; vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: Looking for advice


<<<I find motors for $100 regularily now due to the
number of rusted and tired looking cars around here
(Ottawa, Ontario), and the engines are good!>>>

I live in Northern Virginia (right outside of
Washington, DC). I called a few local salvage yards
three years ago and asked if they had a VW diesel
motor for sale. They must not be common around here (I
can not remember the last time I saw a VW IDI diesel
on the road, other than mine here) and at about the
fifth call I located one. It was a non-turbo motor
from a Golf that had about 135,000 miles on it. Get
this, the salvage yard wanted $1,200 US dollars for
it! And that was with me picking it up!

--Nate

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 14:02:11 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 14:02:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] USA bashing ???   ---( me hagar ? are you kidding )
Message-ID: <000a01c41c01$2a47a560$39ed7240@svend>

Was Claus Von.Staufenberg   Germany bashing ?  ---then yes.    NO it is
a problem with beancounters  and the bottom line.

Take a look at manufacturing in USA  ---- Ford T ---pay was good but lifestyle
was worse than a coal mine.   All day all you do is put a front wheel on --and
another and another and another ----???? --efficient ? yes.

Volvo imported the USA system  -----workers revolted ---Volvo changed operating
system to a team effort. Every member got to do all the jobs needed. And the
TEAM signature was put on that car.   That made for some happy workers.-
and probably for some fine cars.

I have a deep rooted LOVE for Amerika ---- but has she got growing pains ????
bet your ass.

Why did Ford  change to Quality is Job 1 ?   ---simple  -- dollars were Job 1 before.
American living standard has got so high ---that you are a nobody if you take jobs
like that.-------- will that ladder of better ever end ?  ---who knows.  Like lots of us
we(I) got lazy and we no longer have that hungry feeling.
Have I seen workers on assembly line jobs ?   ---are you kidding ---to the day I die
I will be embarrassed.  It is downright un amerikan.

Have I ever prostituded myself to industry to get bread on the table ? ----yes.
So if you are an assembly line worker ---PLEASE PLEASE take no offence.
I never did work on a line like that ---- I sometimes wish I had ---to make me more
compassionate.

Hagar.
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 14:13:17 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 14:13:17 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Looking for advice
In-Reply-To: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808668@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
References: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808668@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
Message-ID: <20040406181317.GA6913@cybershamanix.com>

   Have you tried looking on http://www.car-parts.com -- I see some there for
anywhere from $205-$750, but lots with no price listed, just says "call for
price" -- all over the US and CA.




On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 11:13:08AM -0600, Chuck Carnohan wrote:
> This is getting interesting!  So, how hard are good 1.6na diesels to
> come by?  Here in the West they are scarce and wrecking yards that have
> one ask $600.00- I have seen them advertised in the Minneapolis-StPaul
> area for $350.00.  It makes sense that the engines are more plentiful
> back east with the rust and, the number of vehicles registered over the
> years (population dynamics).  So, according to kind response to my
> original question about this engine, I think I will pass as the dip
> stick tube where it enters the block is leaking, some pressure is noted
> when the oil fill cap is removed and a bit of smoke also emanates
> briefly.  I just thought that the "O" ring on the dipstick tube needed
> replacement but the pressure at the oil cap sounds like a determination
> of unacceptable blow-by?  It sure did start easy though for a
> low-compression engine.  Warm day (70 degrees) in the sunshine helps a
> lot I'm sure.  I'm hard-pressed to pay 5 or 6 hundred dollars for an
> engine when the last one I got was $300 with the pickup attached!  Lucky
> scrounge, I know! I just don't want to be stupid and let a good engine
> slip away.....
> 
> Chuck
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nate Wall [mailto:natewall1@yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 10:47 AM
> To: greg rich; vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: Looking for advice
> 
> 
> <<<I find motors for $100 regularily now due to the
> number of rusted and tired looking cars around here
> (Ottawa, Ontario), and the engines are good!>>>
> 
> I live in Northern Virginia (right outside of
> Washington, DC). I called a few local salvage yards
> three years ago and asked if they had a VW diesel
> motor for sale. They must not be common around here (I
> can not remember the last time I saw a VW IDI diesel
> on the road, other than mine here) and at about the
> fifth call I located one. It was a non-turbo motor
> from a Golf that had about 135,000 miles on it. Get
> this, the salvage yard wanted $1,200 US dollars for
> it! And that was with me picking it up!
> 
> --Nate
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 14:30:22 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 14:30:22 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Looking for advice  ---( Chuckie --hagars bit )
Message-ID: <000c01c41c05$1a6298e0$24ed7240@svend>

Blow by is important ----so how did I check ?   simple .
Pull the line to VC off and use a piece of paper to gauge blow.

Then compare to a good one. --- Do a blottertest of oil.    Look
at black goo in line.

A good diesel VW  --- is worth a 1000 dollars US  any time. But due to
the way things are priced .  The range is from 150 dollars to a thou.

Bid a good dollar and it will be a win win situation. The seller is happy and you are happy.
What could be better ?.( yeah I know --a steal)

If you post miles and year of manufacture and service (like old lady)  we can advise you better.

I can buy it for around $500 USD.

Sounds ok to me.

Hagar
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Tue Apr  6 15:39:42 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 15:39:43 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
Message-ID: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>

Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their opinions? 
 Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an unbiased 
group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
Andrew
P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 15:49:11 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 15:49:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>
References: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <20040406194911.GA7054@cybershamanix.com>

   It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled engines of any brand or type
simply don't last at all compared to watercooled. My brand new '69 VW bus burnt
out the valves at 25K, and it was maintained by the dealer from the start with
all oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. done right on time. I ran aircooled
VW's for many, many years -- and rebuilt many, many engines as well. They just
don't last. You'd be extremely lucky to get 100K on one without a complete
rebuild, at least in a bus. 
   Compare that to the 450K some people are getting on VW diesels. Not to
mention the fuel economy differences. Aircooled is great on my chainsaw, not
much else -- I wouldn't even own an aircooled lightplant unless it was one of
the tiny portable ones to use around a construction site, aircooled lightplants
are incredibly noisy compared to watercooled, and having spent a long time
living off grid, I can testify as to how damn annoying they are -- 



On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 03:39:32PM -0400, Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their opinions? 
>  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an unbiased 
> group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> Andrew
> P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 16:04:34 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 16:04:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Looking for advice  -- ( man you got it )
Message-ID: <000a01c41c12$42a64b00$2ced7240@svend>

I looked at Harmond's link and made a few calls. (1-800)

Interesting  --- wish I could have taped ---.and posted.

The price is all over the place.    ---   So Chuck  --- looks to me that
500 US is not bad.

Do not let it slip -- if you need it.      If not wait for the next one.

Hagar.
From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Tue Apr  6 16:36:54 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Tue Apr  6 16:36:54 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30580866B@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

Gee Whiz!  What kind of question is this?  You are a brave and foolhardy
soul Andrew!  I agree with all that Harmon testified plus a big
detractant to the air cooled VW's is their sorry excuse for a heater!
They are downright dangerous in northern climes!  Defrost is just a hope
and functions least when needed most!  How did the German's ever make-do
with such a sorry excuse for a cabin heater?  Buses are the worst for
this.  I remember a trip from N. California to Texas one winter in a 69
Westfalia.  I do believe that it was warmer outside that in the box!
(fun trip though!  Gotta love the air-cooled).

-----Original Message-----
From: Harmon Seaver [mailto:hseaver@cybershamanix.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:49 PM
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's


   It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled engines of any brand or
type simply don't last at all compared to watercooled. My brand new '69
VW bus burnt out the valves at 25K, and it was maintained by the dealer
from the start with all oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. done right
on time. I ran aircooled VW's for many, many years -- and rebuilt many,
many engines as well. They just don't last. You'd be extremely lucky to
get 100K on one without a complete rebuild, at least in a bus. 
   Compare that to the 450K some people are getting on VW diesels. Not
to mention the fuel economy differences. Aircooled is great on my
chainsaw, not much else -- I wouldn't even own an aircooled lightplant
unless it was one of the tiny portable ones to use around a construction
site, aircooled lightplants are incredibly noisy compared to
watercooled, and having spent a long time living off grid, I can testify
as to how damn annoying they are -- 



On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 03:39:32PM -0400, Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their 
> opinions?
>  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an
unbiased 
> group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> Andrew
> P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From dieseltdi at earthlink.net  Tue Apr  6 16:43:49 2004
From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen)
Date: Tue Apr  6 16:43:51 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
References: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <001101c41c17$dbd9dc10$1da2a00a@ALL.DISTTCCD.NET>

I personally think, coming from a long history of air cooled VWs and finally
into water cooled and especially diesels, that they are very different (yeah
I know a deep statement) but what I mean is that although the aircooled were
VERY easy to work on and fix, I was ALWAYS fixing something or retightening
something or adjusting something. Plus you got no heat in the winter,
except,oddly enough, right at the vents where I used to heat cans of beanie
weanies, they are to small to effectively run an AC (an absolute necessary
thing here in Texas) and horribly underpowered. ON the other hand the parts
were cheap, they were easy to hot rod and basically bullet proof if you
could get the cooling right.  The Diesels have more power (marginal yes but
more power and torque), I can have real heat and real AC.  They have their
problems (head gaskets) but if you keep them timed properly, run clean fuel
and replace the timing belts, they can be much more reliable that the
aircooled.  JMTCW  Hayden
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Libbybapa@wmconnect.com>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's


> Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their
opinions?
>  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an
unbiased
> group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> Andrew
> P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Tue Apr  6 17:01:21 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Tue Apr  6 17:01:22 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <001101c41c17$dbd9dc10$1da2a00a@ALL.DISTTCCD.NET>
Message-ID: <20040406210115.30945.qmail@web80810.mail.yahoo.com>

I've had about 10 aircooled VWs in my younger days, so
here's my take. Oddly, I do not remember lack of heat
being too much of an issue, but then again I had an
accident in a '68 Squareback because the front
windshield was frosted over. I did leave a thick
plastic ice scraper in the rear footwell in that
Squareback and the heat was on and it just melted the
ice scraper into an unrecognizeable blob. Less heat
volume, but its much hotter.

Maintenance was more intense on the aircooleds. Axle
beam Grease fittings, 3000 mile oil changes and filter
screen washings, frequent valve adjustments (10,000
miles?), heads needed valve work at about 75,000
miles, and yes, some special tools were needed. But
the engines were easy to get out and rebuild.

Safety was a big negative (read the book Small on
Safety by Ralph Nader) with oversteer problems and
lack of engine up front, but the gas tank and fuse
block is right up there above your feet. But luckily,
I never got in any serious accidents in any of them.

Another big gripe I had was a propensity to rust out.
All of my aircooled were old and rusty. I screwed a
washing machine lid in the floor of one of them. Lift
up the floor mat and you could read, "Instructions on
how to use this machine"

Also, economy was about 28 - 30 MPG.

I'd take the VW diesel any day over an aircooled VW.
(Odd though, I've been keeping my eye out for a 50s VW
though!) I had a '56 bone stock ragtop Bug that I miss
quite a bit.

--Nate
--- Hayden Chasteen <dieseltdi@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I personally think, coming from a long history of
> air cooled VWs and finally
> into water cooled and especially diesels, that they
> are very different (yeah
> I know a deep statement) but what I mean is that
> although the aircooled were
> VERY easy to work on and fix, I was ALWAYS fixing
> something or retightening
> something or adjusting something. Plus you got no
> heat in the winter,
> except,oddly enough, right at the vents where I used
> to heat cans of beanie
> weanies, they are to small to effectively run an AC
> (an absolute necessary
> thing here in Texas) and horribly underpowered. ON
> the other hand the parts
> were cheap, they were easy to hot rod and basically
> bullet proof if you
> could get the cooling right.  The Diesels have more
> power (marginal yes but
> more power and torque), I can have real heat and
> real AC.  They have their
> problems (head gaskets) but if you keep them timed
> properly, run clean fuel
> and replace the timing belts, they can be much more
> reliable that the
> aircooled.  JMTCW  Hayden
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Libbybapa@wmconnect.com>
> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus
> Diesel VW's
> 
> 
> > Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone
> care to post their
> opinions?
> >  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?
>  Probably not an
> unbiased
> > group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> > Andrew
> > P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
From scameron at compmore.net  Tue Apr  6 17:38:17 2004
From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron)
Date: Tue Apr  6 17:38:19 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20040406213531.0067889c@pop3.compmore.net>

At 09:51 AM 4/6/04 -0600, you wrote:
>Nope, but you might want to ask aircooled questions anyway, there's a lot of
>old airheads here.
>
>Hmm, that didn't come out right...


Never had one of those. 
How about Briggs&Stratton??

Sandy

From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Tue Apr  6 17:46:54 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Tue Apr  6 17:46:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Dan says that Hagar says....
Message-ID: <20493895.1081288012426.JavaMail.www@wwinf3001>

Dan says....Hagar says that the '80 Rabbit is the best, I have to disagree I firmly believe that the '81 was better- they had better brakes, better exhaust hook-ups, better looking front ends etc! So there!
Dan; you're the kiddy ...BUT  'I'm the man'
Rabbits are for old ladies or boy racers
With the right engine in the can...
Forget the keeping up with the chasers;
I will only ever drive a Quantum
With it's larger carrying siz-er
You will never want...um
For anything else
Or I?m not Mark (The Miser)
Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 17:54:45 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 17:54:46 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <20040406210115.30945.qmail@web80810.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <001101c41c17$dbd9dc10$1da2a00a@ALL.DISTTCCD.NET>
	<20040406210115.30945.qmail@web80810.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20040406215444.GA7563@cybershamanix.com>

On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 02:01:15PM -0700, Nate Wall wrote:
> 
> Maintenance was more intense on the aircooleds. Axle
> beam Grease fittings, 3000 mile oil changes and filter
> screen washings, frequent valve adjustments (10,000
> miles?),

   2500 miles is recommended on valve adjustment, same as oil change. And I
ended up doing mine every 1000, along with ignition adjustment too. 

> heads needed valve work at about 75,000

   Bugs maybe, but not buses. Much more likely you'll need a total rebuild by
75,000. 

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Tue Apr  6 17:57:07 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Tue Apr  6 17:57:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Re: Dan says that Hagar says....
Message-ID: <24733867.1081288625604.JavaMail.www@wwinf3001>







========================================
Message date : Apr 06 2004, 10:46 PM
>From : "Mark Shepherd" 
To : "vwdiesel" 
Copy to : 
Subject : Dan says that Hagar says....

Dan says....Hagar says that the '80 Rabbit is the best, I have to disagree I firmly believe that the '81 was better- they had better brakes, better exhaust hook-ups, better looking front ends etc! So there!
Damn HTML ...This should rhyme:- !!
 
Dan; you're the kiddy ...BUT  'I'm the man'
Rabbits are for old ladies or boy racers
With the right engine in the can...
Forget the keeping up with the chasers;
I will only ever drive a Quantum
With it's larger carrying siz-er
You will never want...um
For anything else
Or I?m not Mark (The Miser)
Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From hillsgrove at adelphia.net  Tue Apr  6 18:01:09 2004
From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove)
Date: Tue Apr  6 18:01:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] best car ever made  -- rating by      Dan MacArthur 
References: <83.8c1eda8.2da435f0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <004901c41c22$57fed200$6600a8c0@lee>

> There's always the option of doing like Jake did.  Visit the wrecking
> yard on a warm day and find yourself a good, used, early headliner.
>


  Loren, how is Jake doing? Does he still auto-x the yellow Rabbit? I miss
reading his posts here. If you talk to him, tell him we say hi and not to be
a stranger!
 We were working on a propane injection system to be controlled by an
industrial PLC that I would do the programming for but nothing became of it.
That would have been a fun project.


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 18:02:02 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 18:02:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's -- ( NO debate ?
	Harmon.)
Message-ID: <000b01c41c22$a96a5380$3eed7240@svend>


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: H.Hagar 
  To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:46 PM
  Subject: Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's -- ( NO debate ? Harmon.)


   It's not even remotely debatable -- air-cooled engines of any brand or type
simply don't last at all compared to water-cooled. 
 
The most efficient VW engine , dollar for dollar mile for mile is
the "Airhead"  in my opinion. The "Airhead " wins hands down.
Diesel versus Diesel ?---The "Airhead"  wins hands down . It is not
even a fair comparison.   Aircraft Gas Pratt and Whitney versus
Merlin or the one from the P 38 ?  the name ? ."Allison"?
No contest ---the Pratt wins every time.  The longest life diesel
I got here is an "Airhead" ----how about 30 years with NO 
maintenance,?. Running a Genset ?  not bad. Never a frozen block or loss of coolant.
Deutz diesels and Listers  are fine.  An "Airhead" is bigger and puts out less
HP pr cubic inch --- so there is a trade-off. 
Now now Andrew --- are you stirring up shit ?.     -- hope we get a lot
of responce to this one.    I like airheads and liquid cooled Engines.
But dollar for dollar Kilowatt year for year ---"Airheads wins". But they are more
expensive to make. Water-cooling compared to Aircooling is simple.
 
So there.      Hagar.

From jon at kenneke.com  Tue Apr  6 18:10:07 2004
From: jon at kenneke.com (jon)
Date: Tue Apr  6 18:10:08 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.44.0404061505050.11372-100000@kenneke.com>


Well, I am a bit biased, since I own two Diesel VWs (1.9NA Vanagon, 
and 1.6NA Westy) (and two Diesel Mercedes, as well), but the Diesels win 
hands down.

Why?

1980's vintage aircooled Gas Westy: 20ish MPG
1980's vintage  Diesel Westy (1.6): 30ish MPG

Yes, the diesel is slow.

Diesel VWs can (and do) run on veggie oil. 

The Diesel engines (with proper maintenance and driving hbaits) last 
longer than Air Cooled engine. Yes, a new Diesel engine does cost more.

And, there is no "hocus pocus" in the Diesel engines like AFM, K-Jetronic, 
O2 sensors, Temp II sensor, etc etc etc. (Yes, I have lots of Type IV 
engine experience). Oh yeah, and no sucked valve seats.

IMHO

Flame on....

Jon

On Tue, 6 Apr 2004 Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:

> Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their opinions? 
>  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an unbiased 
> group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> Andrew
> P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 

From malexand at inreach.com  Tue Apr  6 18:16:53 2004
From: malexand at inreach.com (Michael Alexander)
Date: Tue Apr  6 18:16:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Exhaust C Clip Wedge
In-Reply-To: <20040406012829.D60EB5E9AC@audifans.com>
Message-ID: <4.1.20040406152107.0091df00@pop3.inreach.com>

A while back, someone posted a drawing of a  plate steel wedge to spread the c
clips on the Rabbit exhaust system. Would someone either repost it or email it
to me.



TIA

m alexander
From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Tue Apr  6 20:04:26 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Tue Apr  6 20:04:27 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <000b01c41c22$a96a5380$3eed7240@svend> from "H.Hagar" at Apr 06,
	2004 03:01:05 PM
Message-ID: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>

Aircooled vs. water jacketed...the trades are simple.

Aircooled: less weight, lower manufacturing complexity, looser engine 
tolernaces, noisier operation, shorter life, less stable engine temps.

Work OK for airplanes, chainsaws, and low milage cars.  (Didn't Saab
have a 3 cyl aircooled engine?)

Waterjacketed: weigh more, increased manufacturing complexity,
tighter tolerances, better engine temp maintenance, quieter
operation, longer life.


Then there is the trade space for Otto Cycle and Diesel Cycle Engines.

They fall into a couple of categories:

-manufacturing complexity (higher for diesel, given the current state of the
industry)

-maintenance complexity (lower for diesel when averaged over the life of
a properly maintained power plant)

-wear limits (graceful degradation with the Otto, which tends to start
more easily than a similar condition diesel)

-power characteristics (torque, RPM trades, plus duty cycles, startup
times, engine cycles, etc.)


Well, our discussion could go on forever.  But there is the OTHER
compression engine.  The turbine.  I don't hear of too many people 
running these.  Yet, they are used in some powerplants, including
some train engines (traditionally diesel in recent years (bar electric))
If I could just get my hands on a nice turbine, with, say 40 hp.
It would probably outperform a 48/52 hp vwdiesel IDI in auto applications.
At least for highway drivability.  Remember, max torque at lowest RPM.
Who needs a gearbox (save reduction gears)?  No more complex at starting
than a diesel, although a hotstart has greater consequences.  The real 
thrill is the noise you leave behind.  Then again, a 48 hp vwdiesel
IDI without exhaust is a thrilling car...

Val

ps: I bet we can burn veggie oil in a turbine.  
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 20:07:51 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 20:07:53 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <000b01c41c22$a96a5380$3eed7240@svend>
	<200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <20040407000752.GA7588@cybershamanix.com>

On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 08:35:52PM -0400, Val Christian wrote:
> 
> ps: I bet we can burn veggie oil in a turbine.  

   Yeah, and lots of it too. The US military just recently yanked the turbines
that came in all their tanks and replaced them with diesels -- their range was
too limited with the turbines. 
   Also, don't forget, you'll need earmuffs when driving that turbine car. 


-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Tue Apr  6 20:44:34 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Tue Apr  6 20:44:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <20040407000752.GA7588@cybershamanix.com> from "Harmon Seaver" at
	Apr 06, 2004 07:07:52 PM
Message-ID: <200404070115.VAA26040@swamps.roc.ny.us>

Gee, I was recently at Ft. Knox, and noone there mentioned that.
And we had a dinner discussion on turbines and transmissions in the 
M1A1s.

With respect to the noise, I'd like to experiment with an acoustic
horn to focus the acoustic energy to enhance the propulsive effects
of the exhaust.  Right.

Val

> 
> On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 08:35:52PM -0400, Val Christian wrote:
> > 
> > ps: I bet we can burn veggie oil in a turbine.  
> 
>    Yeah, and lots of it too. The US military just recently yanked the turbines
> that came in all their tanks and replaced them with diesels -- their range was
> too limited with the turbines. 
>    Also, don't forget, you'll need earmuffs when driving that turbine car. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Harmon Seaver	
> CyberShamanix
> http://www.cybershamanix.com
> Hokay hey!
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr  6 20:55:45 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr  6 20:55:46 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Exhaust C Clip Wedge  
Message-ID: <000a01c41c3a$f18199e0$4eed7240@svend>

Michael Alexander      Try Sandy Cameron   or James Hansen.

Hagar
From scameron at compmore.net  Tue Apr  6 21:07:01 2004
From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron)
Date: Tue Apr  6 21:07:02 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Exhaust C Clip Wedge
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20040407010414.0067768c@pop3.compmore.net>

Mailed off-list with pictures (bot doesn't allow pics)
Glad to mail to any individuals that want them


>A while back, someone posted a drawing of a  plate steel wedge to spread the c
>clips on the Rabbit exhaust system. Would someone either repost it or email it
>to me.

Make the wedge out of 3/16" steel plate.
place clip on slightly open vice.
drive wedge into clip between vice jaws, holding it firmly so it doesn't pop
back out.
drive it down until it rests on the straight part 3.5" wide against the lugs.

wear safety goggles.

under the car, release exhaust clamp on the straight pipe so you can twist
it a bit.
twist the pipe sideways one way so you can hook in one of the clips (without
a wedge) on the manifold and pipe flanges. it will go on.
now twist the pipe as far the other way as you can, and with the other clip
with the wedge in it, hook it on. Then tap out the wedge carefully with a
hammer while holdihg the clip in place with a rag or a glove to protect your
hand.
Stay out of the line of fire in case the wedge exits quickly

Also included, a 2" clamp which can be used to jack a clip open, and release
it slowly. do both nuts equally, in and out, to avoid a nasty surprise.
Grind a flat on the outside of the arch for a seat for the clip to rest on.
this will enhance stability.

Sandy 

Job done.

From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 21:25:08 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 21:25:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <200404070115.VAA26040@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <20040407000752.GA7588@cybershamanix.com>
	<200404070115.VAA26040@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <20040407012508.GA7783@cybershamanix.com>

On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 09:15:29PM -0400, Val Christian wrote:
> Gee, I was recently at Ft. Knox, and noone there mentioned that.
> And we had a dinner discussion on turbines and transmissions in the 
> M1A1s.


   Here's just one of many articles on the changeover:

http://www.g2mil.com/abramsdiesel.htm

   Fuel economy isn't the only reason for the changeover either. 


-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Tue Apr  6 21:59:52 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 21:59:53 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
Message-ID: <75.2643d991.2da4ba8c@aol.com>


> It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled engines of any brand or type
> simply don't last at all compared to watercooled.

 You might want to rethink that.  : )  My brother-in-law used to work on 
combines.  Deutz-Allis air cooled diesels.  If they break down and don't 
last, farmers AIN'T gonna use em!  We have two air cooled diesel tractors. 
One doesn't seem to be running quite right but it got a couple thousand 
trouble free hours before anything but oil and filter changes.  The 
Lamborghini is still going with a few thousand on it and AFIK the 
engine is UNTOUCHED!  The water cooled tractors are in the same 
range or a tad better but get more hours due to application.  VW 
air cooled are a bit more problematic.  I put about 75K engine problem 
free miles on my 914 and it had almost 100K on it when I got it.  Setting 
valves, timing and dwell were critical to keeping it running perfectly but 
other than rings and seals,  when I bought it, the engine was problem 
free.  No loose head bolts etc.  Early 911 engines are notorious for 
getting 200 to 300K miles before any major engine work.  The valve 
adjusting isn't quite as big an issue on them either.
  Water cooled is quieter.  :)
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Tue Apr  6 22:07:35 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 22:07:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] best car ever made  -- rating by      Dan MacArthur 
Message-ID: <10f.2e3aa5e8.2da4bc60@aol.com>


>  Loren, how is Jake doing? Does he still auto-x the yellow Rabbit? I miss
> reading his posts here. If you talk to him, tell him we say hi and not to be
> a stranger!
> 

  Last I heard from him was around the first of the year.  I was slow to 
respond and haven't heard back.  He was still doing well with the 
Rabbit but had pretty well designated it as race only.  We both 
got pretty busy and lost track of eachother.  He'll have to come over
 for my son's graduation in June though so...  :)
     Loren
From ross at hypertools.com  Tue Apr  6 22:31:39 2004
From: ross at hypertools.com (David Ross)
Date: Tue Apr  6 22:31:40 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
References: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <40736789.56B5006B@hypertools.com>

Val & the gang -

Val Christian wrote:
> 
> Work OK for airplanes, chainsaws, and low milage cars.  (Didn't Saab
> have a 3 cyl aircooled engine?)
> 

  Naw, the Saab "Shrike" engine was a 3 cylinder water-cooled
two-stroke, a close copy of the German DKW engine of the same
configuration.
  (The DKW engine used three sets of points & three coils so no
distributor, employed thermosiphon cooling so no water pump -  neat
little engine.
  The DKW was set up front wheel drive with the engine in front of the
transaxle.  You want to talk about "Powerplant Trades" -  we put one of
these DKW powerpacks in a Fiat 600 in a rear wheel drive mid-engine
setup -  now that was a real fun autocross car.)

  When the U.S. tightened up emissions requirements on imported cars in
the '70s, Saab thumbed their nose and just reduced the bore on the 850cc
two-stroke Shrike engine to where it was below the 50 cubic inch
emissions applicability limit and sold 'em in the U.S. anyway.

Dave Ross    N7EPI
From hillsgrove at adelphia.net  Tue Apr  6 22:51:53 2004
From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove)
Date: Tue Apr  6 22:51:54 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
References: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
	<40736789.56B5006B@hypertools.com>
Message-ID: <007801c41c4b$2bc87960$6600a8c0@lee>

> >
> > Work OK for airplanes, chainsaws, and low milage cars.  (Didn't Saab
> > have a 3 cyl aircooled engine?)
> >
>
>   Naw, the Saab "Shrike" engine was a 3 cylinder water-cooled
> two-stroke, a close copy of the German DKW engine of the same
> configuration.


 Friend of ours when I was a kid had a whole herd of the 2-stroke wagons. He
prayed hard at the temple of SAAB. I remember he had to change the exhaust
systems periodically, not due to rust, but because the carbon would build up
in the pipes and choke out the engine. Little to no engine braking (not that
our diesels have a bunch, either). Odd little critters, they were.
 Same guy later on had an aircooled Westy that he converted to run a
watercooled 1600 cc Toyota 2T-C out of a '70s era Corolla. Those were neat
engines in themselves, I had one in a Carina, my first car. They were true
hemi-head engines, and looked like half of a shrunken Mopar V-8 with the
cylinders stood up straight. He ran pipes to a radiator mounted on the front
bumper. Worked out very well for him, once he got the initial bugs worked
out.


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI

From hillsgrove at adelphia.net  Tue Apr  6 22:56:04 2004
From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove)
Date: Tue Apr  6 22:56:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
References: <75.2643d991.2da4ba8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <009401c41c4b$bcd7ca00$6600a8c0@lee>




>
> > It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled engines of any brand or
type
> > simply don't last at all compared to watercooled.
>
>  You might want to rethink that.  : )  My brother-in-law used to work on
> combines.  Deutz-Allis air cooled diesels.  If they break down and don't
> last, farmers AIN'T gonna use em!


 Doesn't James have an aircooled VW running a thresher? Seems as though
whatever it is, I remember him telling of the pipes glowing red when it's
running under load. Could be poor memory on my part, too.  :-P


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI

From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr  6 22:56:22 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr  6 22:56:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <75.2643d991.2da4ba8c@aol.com>
References: <75.2643d991.2da4ba8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20040407025621.GA8001@cybershamanix.com>

   Don't know about the diesels, but I can attest to the type 4 engines being a
whole lot better than the earlier VW aircooled. I had one in my '81 vanagon, and
had another that I put in my '73 westy. Stronger crankcases, oil filter,
hydraulic lifters, better cooling -- but they still ran waaaay too hot in the
bus/vanagon. My oil temps would often go over 230F and head temps of 600F were
common. The van engine compartment turns into an oven when going slow or stopped
in traffic.
   Can't imagine myself ever buying an aircooled tractor. Although I do have an
10hp aircooled walkbehind tractor. 8-) Wish I chosen the diesel option when I
bought it 25 years ago. But maybe just the fact that the tractors are open to
the air rather than being closed in a box helps. 


On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 09:59:40PM -0400, LBaird119@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled engines of any brand or type
> > simply don't last at all compared to watercooled.
> 
>  You might want to rethink that.  : )  My brother-in-law used to work on 
> combines.  Deutz-Allis air cooled diesels.  If they break down and don't 
> last, farmers AIN'T gonna use em!  We have two air cooled diesel tractors. 
> One doesn't seem to be running quite right but it got a couple thousand 
> trouble free hours before anything but oil and filter changes.  The 
> Lamborghini is still going with a few thousand on it and AFIK the 
> engine is UNTOUCHED!  The water cooled tractors are in the same 
> range or a tad better but get more hours due to application.  VW 
> air cooled are a bit more problematic.  I put about 75K engine problem 
> free miles on my 914 and it had almost 100K on it when I got it.  Setting 
> valves, timing and dwell were critical to keeping it running perfectly but 
> other than rings and seals,  when I bought it, the engine was problem 
> free.  No loose head bolts etc.  Early 911 engines are notorious for 
> getting 200 to 300K miles before any major engine work.  The valve 
> adjusting isn't quite as big an issue on them either.
>   Water cooled is quieter.  :)
>      Loren
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Tue Apr  6 23:16:48 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 23:16:50 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Exhaust C Clip Wedge
Message-ID: <c4.972309f.2da4cc96@wmconnect.com>

I went to the hardware store, got two short pieces of allthread, four nuts to 
fit with washers, and two pieces of very beefy metal with holes about 1 1/2" 
apart.  The nuts get threaded to the middle two per allthread, washers on 
either side of nuts, beefy pieces of metal next.  The nuts push the beefy pieces 
apart.  When you get close to the size of the clamps, slip the contraption in 
and it will push the clamps apart.  MUCH, MUCH, MUCH safer than the wedge idea. 
 Rocky Mountain sold a similar tool also, I don't know who else would have 
it.  If you need pictures of mine I can post them as an attachment.  Cost less 
than 10 bucks and I had the clamps off an hour after I left for the hardware 
store.  Good Luck.  Andrew
From keen at type2.com  Tue Apr  6 23:20:28 2004
From: keen at type2.com (david raistrick)
Date: Tue Apr  6 23:20:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] anyone gotta spare diesel?
Message-ID: <Pine.BSF.4.50L0.0404062311180.94261-100000@pon.type2.com>


Hey guys.

Mom's green truck (bought a year or so ago on the vwpickups list, if
memory serves) cracked the block.

Dunno how long it's been cracked, but the leak lead to the usual loss of
too much coolant and a blown head gasket.  Head looks ok, though.

Anyway, anyone have a spare good running diesel sitting around in the
southeast?  (she's in the Augusta, GA and the Savannah, GA area depending
on the time of week, and I'm in Orlando.)

Cheaper is better....I've got one engine that sat headless for a few years
in the weather that might have a rebuildable block, and there is another
1.6 in a parts car, unknown but "overheated" that might be rebuildable.

But all of that requires more labor and parts at the mechanic (good
friend, charges reasonable) then just a swap...poor college student and
all that. (make that, poor BFA working on her MFA...:)


While we're at it, anyone got a set of Caddy rear leaf springs?  The ones
on this truck are /bent/. (really)


thanks for any leads.

...david


-- 
/"\   ASCII Ribbon Campaign     David Raistrick '66 SO-44 Westy
\ / - NO HTML/RTF in e-mail     keen@type2.com          in Orlando Fl
 X  - NO Word docs in e-mail http://www.netmeister.org/news/learn2quote.html
/ \ - NO V-Cards in e-mail          http://www.expita.com/nomime.html

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Tue Apr  6 23:42:31 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue Apr  6 23:42:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Aircooled and Diesel
Message-ID: <99.454856dd.2da4d29d@wmconnect.com>

  Well, Ive long been a fan of both.  Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers.  
Good response though.  Andrew
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr  7 02:45:48 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr  7 02:45:50 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOCEGGEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


> P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.

LOL!!!

Sure sure.

you gotta remember the design objectives and such.
The beetle engine was absolutely outstanding for it's purpose (1940's), and
was designed around being a cheap easily replaceable powerplant to use
minimal resources.  Longevity was not in the forefront, neither was lack of
maintenance.  It was designed to be worked on, used solid cam followers so
you adjusted valves, but then had no hydraulic followers to go bad either.
Used a bone simple carb, mickey mouse manifold that was actually tuned to
attain max torque.  There was certainly a bunch of subtle refinements inside
the engine that made it cheap to produce, and stand up to significant abuse,
while only sipping from the economic and resource trough.

THe diesel VW produced was a whole different breed of cat. Way more refined,
designed to last and last. But, it used iron castings, which are much more
expensive to produce, and it had HUGE bearings for the load they receive.
Lotsa oil volume, pretty big sump for the displacement, the goals here I
think were pretty much different.  Still cheap to operate, but pretty much
maintenance free until valve adjust... still with the solid followers in the
early ones. Remember too, volks was trying to get over the image of a high
maintenance vehicle that the 411's and 412's left the consumer with, so they
had to really pull a rabbit out of their... oh yeah, they did...  The Rabbit
really resurrected the volkswagen name, and it was rare to have a dealer
left in these parts after the whole sordid 411/412 affair.  By this I mean
the competition between Lucas, the Prince of Darkness, and the co-operative
effort put forth by Bosch and Volkswagen in the crappy electrical system
olympics.  Lucas still won, but only by a small Jag.  The evidence of this
hard fought battle has fortunately mostly rusted away... exceptionally so.


Overall, in their day, you could rebuild a bug engine for the cost of a set
of rebuilt injectors.  It was planned that way. But no more, parts are too
expensive to plan on frequent rebuilds.]

That reminds me, I still have two complete aircooled engines in parts, still
in boxes.. NOS even. Hmmm....


 Heat? Remember now, you guys are basing experience on old worn out rusty
bugs.  With fresh heater boxes, a 40hp beetle would kill you for heat on the
highway, and the gas heater that used a pint an hour in the city would keep
you equally roasted. You are talking to a prairie boy, -40 winters and such.
Bugs start in winter.  They just start.  With tires, they are uncanny on
ice, but for the UNDERSTEER. (not oversteer dude)

 BUT, drive a bus in winter? Har.  BTDT. that is not warm. That is so far
from warm, that warm was on a holiday to Florida when that was typed. There
is a verified thermal black hole under the dash of each and every aircooled
bus that switches on immediately upon entering a highway. Busses are for
your enemies to drive in winter...

Oh, Lee, the farm equipment I have that is volks industrial powered is
Melroe Spray-Coupe.  I have a 220 model, that has a watercooled 1.8.  Yeah,
it glows red but not as bad as it did stock. It had the smallest exhaust
manifold known to man.. so I put on a diesel one, with a smallish glasspack.
It's noisly, but I wear earplugs anyway, so no biggie, but the egt's are way
down, and power is up. THe old ones had aircooled engines.  That was mostly
a bust for their second owner.  THe original owner kept the engine manual,
and no maintenance was ever done other than a seasonal oil change.  Lotsa #3
exhaust valves dropped in early coupes.

Efficient and long lasting aircooled?
Deutz.
Runs on the smell of an oily rag. Lasts forever IF MAINTAINED.  Any
aircooled needs valve adjustments especially with solid followers.  Valves
wear out, and a tad faster on a aircooled.
Example is... Deutz DX160 (160 bhp) versus a watercooled case (but you could
pick any other mfg.  Aircooled = 3gallons per hour.  Water cooled = 6
gallons per hour MINIMUM on the same load.

The type 4 engines were a differeent cat as well, built more with longevity
in mind, and less with cheapness, so they last pretty well, and turn some
good horsepower numbers out. Rebuilds are pricey.


I still will never part with my hotrod 69 Ghia vert. I'll adjust valves
thank you very much. Lotsa fast cars have seen that one from the back...
-James


















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From rar at acetank.com  Wed Apr  7 03:23:27 2004
From: rar at acetank.com (Allan Reese)
Date: Wed Apr  7 03:23:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <4073AC78.1010505@acetank.com>

There are a couple of things that can be added to Val's comments:

1.  Aircooled, at least those with reasonably high specific horsepower 
tend to be less fuel efficient because excess fuel is used to cool the 
engine.  This applies to both diesel and Otto cycle engines.  (The 
aircooled Deutz diesels I've seen shot visible exhaust smoke 50-feet 
into the air.)  That's why aircraft engines are run at "full rich" when 
using maximum takeoff power and then leaned out when the power is 
reduced.  Fuel is an expensive coolant.  On the plane I flew there was 
nearly a 30% reduction in fuel consumption when the engine was leaned out.

2.  Everything else being equal, a high compression engine (diesel) is 
more efficient than a low compression engine.  That's one of the main 
reasons why big truck engines are always diesels.  At partial throttle, 
diesel engines remain efficient whereas gasoline engines become less 
efficient.  I don't know for sure, but think this is because at partial 
throttle the effective compression ratio of gasoline engines is reduced 
because of the reduction in intake air pressure caused by the throttle.  
Maybe someone knows if this is true.

3.  Turbine engines are somewhat efficient at full throttle but they 
burn almost as much fuel at idle as they do at full power.  The pilots 
of twin engine turbine-powered aircraft often shut down one engine when 
taxiing to conserve fuel even though starting a turbine engine is very 
hard on it.   The ideal turbine-powered ship would have multiple 
turbines so that all are used at maximum speed and and as less power is 
needed some of the turbines are shut down rather than throttling all of 
them back.  This is hard to do mechanically, but relatively easy with a 
turbine-electric drive.

4.   There is no "best" engine.  It depends on what is important for the 
application--weight, specific fuel consumption, long life, etc.  I like 
my diesel engines but with today's relatively low-cost fuel the extra 
cost of a diesel as compared to a gasoline car can't be justified on the 
basis of fuel savings unless one drives a considerable amount per year.  
I got started with diesels in the early 70's when gasoline engines were 
burdened with emissions-reduction gagets that hardly let the engine 
run.  With today's catalytic converters, sophisticated ignition and fuel 
injection systems they run very well and are also much more efficient 
than they used to be.  Thirty years ago who would have thought that a 
full-sized car with a 300 hp gasoline engine could get 20 mph?  My '58 
VW bug with about a tenth that horsepower didn't get much better mileage 
than that.

5.  This is a bit off topic, but it is interesting to compare the 
hybrids, Toyota Prius in particular, and a diesel automobile.  The 
gasoline hybrids do very well in town compared to a gasoline non-hybrid 
but not as well when compared to a diesel.  On the highway a hybrid 
isn't much more fuel efficient than a non-hybrid because because the 
battery isn't used very much.  It is also interesting to note that on 
the Prius only about a third of the breaking is regenerative, i.e. 
putting energy back into the battery.  My guess is that this is because 
hard braking requires much more "horsepower" than the battery can 
absorb.  So gentle braking with a hybrid is far more fuel efficient than 
hard braking.  Of course what is really needed is a diesel-powered 
hybrid!  Anyone doing a conversion??

Allan Reese
areese@cascadelink.com



Val Christian wrote:

>Aircooled vs. water jacketed...the trades are simple.
>
>Aircooled: less weight, lower manufacturing complexity, looser engine 
>tolernaces, noisier operation, shorter life, less stable engine temps.
>
>Work OK for airplanes, chainsaws, and low milage cars.  (Didn't Saab
>have a 3 cyl aircooled engine?)
>
>Waterjacketed: weigh more, increased manufacturing complexity,
>tighter tolerances, better engine temp maintenance, quieter
>operation, longer life.
>
>
>Then there is the trade space for Otto Cycle and Diesel Cycle Engines.
>
>They fall into a couple of categories:
>
>-manufacturing complexity (higher for diesel, given the current state of the
>industry)
>
>-maintenance complexity (lower for diesel when averaged over the life of
>a properly maintained power plant)
>
>-wear limits (graceful degradation with the Otto, which tends to start
>more easily than a similar condition diesel)
>
>-power characteristics (torque, RPM trades, plus duty cycles, startup
>times, engine cycles, etc.)
>
>
>Well, our discussion could go on forever.  But there is the OTHER
>compression engine.  The turbine.  I don't hear of too many people 
>running these.  Yet, they are used in some powerplants, including
>some train engines (traditionally diesel in recent years (bar electric))
>If I could just get my hands on a nice turbine, with, say 40 hp.
>It would probably outperform a 48/52 hp vwdiesel IDI in auto applications.
>At least for highway drivability.  Remember, max torque at lowest RPM.
>Who needs a gearbox (save reduction gears)?  No more complex at starting
>than a diesel, although a hotstart has greater consequences.  The real 
>thrill is the noise you leave behind.  Then again, a 48 hp vwdiesel
>IDI without exhaust is a thrilling car...
>
>Val
>
>ps: I bet we can burn veggie oil in a turbine.  
>_______________________________________________
>Vwdiesel mailing list
>Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
>  
>

From erikjlane at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  7 03:49:08 2004
From: erikjlane at yahoo.com (Erik Lane)
Date: Wed Apr  7 03:49:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <75.2643d991.2da4ba8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20040407074906.13077.qmail@web61204.mail.yahoo.com>


--- LBaird119@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled
> engines of any brand or type
> > simply don't last at all compared to watercooled.
> 
>  You might want to rethink that.  : )  My
> brother-in-law used to work on 
> combines.  Deutz-Allis air cooled diesels.  If they
> break down and don't 
> last, farmers AIN'T gonna use em!  We have two air
> cooled diesel tractors. 
> One doesn't seem to be running quite right but it
> got a couple thousand 
> trouble free hours before anything but oil and
> filter changes.  The 
> Lamborghini is still going with a few thousand on it
> and AFIK the 
> engine is UNTOUCHED!  

deutz diesels are a very good engine, from all i've
heard. and they better be, cause parts can be pretty
pricey.

i don't know the real truth of this, cause it seems
like a lot to me, but my grandfather, who was a farmer
all his life, says that his tractors were just
starting to get broken in at 2000 hours. that that was
still a low number for them! (and they still run
amazingly well.) had to replace a rusted exhaust
system last year, but that was due to rain getting in
the muffler and down in the works.

erik

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
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From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Wed Apr  7 08:58:39 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Wed Apr  7 08:58:40 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Exhaust C Clip Wedge
Message-ID: <1a2.22932698.2da554f3@wmconnect.com>

It's a BAD factory tool.  My tool has no sudden release, no safety glasses 
needed, nothing going anywhere unexpected, NO INJURY.  Also it carries a smaller 
pricetag, and is readily accessible to anyone with a local hardware store(or 
even a good bucket of odds and ends).  If someone wants to use the wedge I 
won't try to stop them, other than letting them know there are better options.  
Just don't try to make me use the wedge.  Andrew
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Wed Apr  7 09:29:41 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Wed Apr  7 09:29:43 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
Message-ID: <1dd.1e768aa0.2da55c41@wmconnect.com>

I am currently doing an engine conversion.  A 1.6TD into an '87 vanagon.  
Another conversion I have seen used copper plumbing fittings, and straight pipe 
to fabricate the various hoses.  Is there any reason not too?  Chemical 
reactions w/ coolant or other metals aluminum/cast iron?  Those hoses can be pricey 
and I'd love to save the nickel.  Andrew
From koldrid at uvm.edu  Wed Apr  7 10:36:31 2004
From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid)
Date: Wed Apr  7 10:36:32 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <1dd.1e768aa0.2da55c41@wmconnect.com>
References: <1dd.1e768aa0.2da55c41@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <1081348589.407411ed6f39c@webmail.uvm.edu>

I've been using copper tubing in contact with the coolant system for a few years
now. I haven't seen any evidence of nasty chemical reactions yet. 
So you dropping a TD into an 87 vanagon? Sweet! What are you using for
bellhousings, engine mounts, oil pan, ect? Are you stripping a donor diesel
vanagon, using an aftermarket swap kit, or fabbing up your own parts? I want to
do this at some point.
There is actually an 87 TD vanagon on ebay right now if anyone's interested.

Ken

> I am currently doing an engine conversion.  A 1.6TD into an '87 vanagon.  
> Another conversion I have seen used copper plumbing fittings, and straight
> pipe 
> to fabricate the various hoses.  Is there any reason not too?  Chemical 
> reactions w/ coolant or other metals aluminum/cast iron?  Those hoses can be
> pricey 
> and I'd love to save the nickel.  Andrew
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 


-- 

From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Wed Apr  7 11:01:31 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Wed Apr  7 11:01:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
In-Reply-To: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30580866B@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
References: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30580866B@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
Message-ID: <20040407150130.GA9769@cybershamanix.com>

   Yeah, the heater in the bugs might have been okay when new, but once the rust
got to them it was gone. The buses didn't have even remotely enough heat to keep
the windsheild defrosted in Wisconsin's Winters even when new, let alone keep
anybody warm. Even worse, since the windshield was so frosted, I sometimes had
to open the side vent to blow cold air on it to be able to see. 
    And yes, the gas heaters are nice (I've got a diesel heater in my '82 diesel
westy), I had one in my '81 vanagon, but very, very few VW's came with those and
they were/are ridiculously expensive. Plus a bit dangerous if malfunctioning, at
least the gas ones -- a friend of mine burnt up his car with one that suddenly
turned into a flame thrower. 


On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 02:36:51PM -0600, Chuck Carnohan wrote:
> Gee Whiz!  What kind of question is this?  You are a brave and foolhardy
> soul Andrew!  I agree with all that Harmon testified plus a big
> detractant to the air cooled VW's is their sorry excuse for a heater!
> They are downright dangerous in northern climes!  Defrost is just a hope
> and functions least when needed most!  How did the German's ever make-do
> with such a sorry excuse for a cabin heater?  Buses are the worst for
> this.  I remember a trip from N. California to Texas one winter in a 69
> Westfalia.  I do believe that it was warmer outside that in the box!
> (fun trip though!  Gotta love the air-cooled).
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Harmon Seaver [mailto:hseaver@cybershamanix.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 1:49 PM
> To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
> 
> 
>    It's not even remotely debatable -- aircooled engines of any brand or
> type simply don't last at all compared to watercooled. My brand new '69
> VW bus burnt out the valves at 25K, and it was maintained by the dealer
> from the start with all oil changes, valve adjustments, etc. done right
> on time. I ran aircooled VW's for many, many years -- and rebuilt many,
> many engines as well. They just don't last. You'd be extremely lucky to
> get 100K on one without a complete rebuild, at least in a bus. 
>    Compare that to the 450K some people are getting on VW diesels. Not
> to mention the fuel economy differences. Aircooled is great on my
> chainsaw, not much else -- I wouldn't even own an aircooled lightplant
> unless it was one of the tiny portable ones to use around a construction
> site, aircooled lightplants are incredibly noisy compared to
> watercooled, and having spent a long time living off grid, I can testify
> as to how damn annoying they are -- 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Apr 06, 2004 at 03:39:32PM -0400, Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> > Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their 
> > opinions?
> >  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an
> unbiased 
> > group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> > Andrew
> > P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> -- 
> Harmon Seaver	
> CyberShamanix
> http://www.cybershamanix.com
> Hokay hey!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hokay hey!

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Wed Apr  7 11:36:00 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Wed Apr  7 11:36:01 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Aircooled and Diesel --- ( was you talking VW only ? )
Message-ID: <000201c41cb5$e662a7e0$4ced7240@svend>



Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers.  

Andrew make up your mind..

It was a good thread you started there ----- anything that smokes out the
opinions is great. Right or wrong ? so what  ?      I seem to learn a lot from
information that I think is wrong .  That provokes me into a bit of reading  and
writing.

Dr. Porche . did design a very efficient engine.(no not fuel) all around.
Kilowatt years pr gallon efficiency goes to the VW diesel so far. Only small
engines are considered. That is for fuel only.

The reason I say the airhead is best ----is based on all cost pr kW year   maybe
megawatts ? year.

5 minutes to change an engine on a BEETLE  ?_  Try that on a Rabbit. ----   Does anyone know
if that was a verified record ???.

Take a good look at  a VW airhead and compare to Continental 65  Lycoming
65   and that line of engines .   Sure is a cost effective design.      I bumped in
to a few  Lycoming 0 320 jobs -----impressive.     

A scored cylinder ?   no problem in an airhead ---   but a Rabbit ?.

I got a brand new still in the crate 1600 VW from Germany many years ago.
Sits in a teststand ready to start below my feet. Will trade for a Rotax.503.

I learned a bit of CYA  from Gary Orlando     IMHO        IMHO          imho    
even sounds cute.

Hagar.    
From malexand at inreach.com  Wed Apr  7 12:56:48 2004
From: malexand at inreach.com (Michael Alexander)
Date: Wed Apr  7 12:56:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <20040407153602.D9054AF394@audifans.com>
Message-ID: <4.1.20040407100054.00ad2120@pop3.inreach.com>

Anybody got pics of homebrew hoses in a rabbit/golf with VW oil cooler? 

Also, are the copper tube segments beaded?

TIA

m alexander
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Wed Apr  7 14:31:49 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Wed Apr  7 14:31:51 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
Message-ID: <1e6.1cf889ca.2da5a309@wmconnect.com>

I recently acquired a complete coversion kit of diesel parts from a junkyard. 
 Bellhousing, starter, flywheel, oil pan, filler tube, pick up tube, carrier 
bars, brackets, maounts and all the bolts.  I may fabricate a different 
carrier bar/ mounting system using the stock mounting holes for wtrbxr, as the left 
mount bracket collides with the turbo wastegate.  The diesel mounts are also 
hard to come by and very expensive at the dealership.  As I plan on keeping the 
van indefinitely I may opt for using jetta mounts.  Intercooler will mount on 
the left of engine compartment with a large airscoop cut out of drivers side. 
 Do I need to add an electric fan?  I may try to work on venting all the hot 
air somewhere other than my engine compartment also.  Anyway, thanks for the 
response.  Andrew
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Wed Apr  7 14:47:10 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Wed Apr  7 14:47:11 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Aircooled and Diesel --- ( was you talking VW only ? )
Message-ID: <197.27cc5ac4.2da5a6a3@wmconnect.com>

The Intention was not to "ruffle feathers", but for fun and education.  I 
asked the question not thinking there was a Right answer.  It all depends on what 
one values.  I asked the question knowing that it would possibly cause debate 
and get some interresting answer (raise trouble).  In my opinion the diesel 
vw is far more pragmatic/ utilitarian.  The air-cooled is more sentimental and 
far more prone to possession by good/evil spirits.  The diesel is a better 
choice for those individuals who take on responsibility(married, children, 
self-employed, employer).  The air-cooled is perhaps a better choice for those who 
wish to see where life takes them(freeish spirits).  I've been both at times.  
Thanks, Andrew.
From koldrid at uvm.edu  Wed Apr  7 15:00:08 2004
From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid)
Date: Wed Apr  7 15:00:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <1e6.1cf889ca.2da5a309@wmconnect.com>
References: <1e6.1cf889ca.2da5a309@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <1081364401.40744fb14f4c7@webmail.uvm.edu>

Wow Andrew,
nice score on the parts. I've located a crappy diesel vanagon in a junkyard. but
not sure how usable the parts will be. The area was kind of swampy. How much
did all those goodies cost, and did you pull yourself? I'm curious how much
these guys would charge. I've considered chopping the rear quarter of the van
off and somehow getting that home. Maybe towing it?

Ken


> I recently acquired a complete coversion kit of diesel parts from a junkyard.
> 
>  Bellhousing, starter, flywheel, oil pan, filler tube, pick up tube, carrier
> 
> bars, brackets, maounts and all the bolts.  I may fabricate a different 
> carrier bar/ mounting system using the stock mounting holes for wtrbxr, as
> the left 
> mount bracket collides with the turbo wastegate.  The diesel mounts are also
> 
> hard to come by and very expensive at the dealership.  As I plan on keeping
> the 
> van indefinitely I may opt for using jetta mounts.  Intercooler will mount on
> 
> the left of engine compartment with a large airscoop cut out of drivers side.
> 
>  Do I need to add an electric fan?  I may try to work on venting all the hot
> 
> air somewhere other than my engine compartment also.  Anyway, thanks for the
> 
> response.  Andrew
> 


-- 

From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  7 15:37:07 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Wed Apr  7 15:37:08 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <1dd.1e768aa0.2da55c41@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <20040407193705.87664.qmail@web80805.mail.yahoo.com>

I think the copper pipe and fittings are a great idea.
Sweat soldering them, right? But I'd make sure I used
a compatable coolant. The VW Phosphate Free coolant is
specified because VW cooling systems have no brass.
Not sure if the phosphates protect copper or the zinc.

Also, any transitions from the engine to the radiator
and other items not attached to the engine should be
made by a rubber coupling hose to brevent fracturing
the pipes. Secure all pipes because of the high
vibration levels.

--Nate
--- Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> I am currently doing an engine conversion.  A 1.6TD
> into an '87 vanagon.  
> Another conversion I have seen used copper plumbing
> fittings, and straight pipe 
> to fabricate the various hoses.  Is there any reason
> not too?  Chemical 
> reactions w/ coolant or other metals aluminum/cast
> iron?  Those hoses can be pricey 
> and I'd love to save the nickel.  Andrew
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


__________________________________
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From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  7 15:38:18 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Wed Apr  7 15:38:19 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <20040407193705.87664.qmail@web80805.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20040407193816.85936.qmail@web80808.mail.yahoo.com>

PVC Pipe and fittings may be another option.

--Nate
--- Nate Wall <natewall1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I think the copper pipe and fittings are a great
> idea.
> Sweat soldering them, right? But I'd make sure I
> used
> a compatable coolant. The VW Phosphate Free coolant
> is
> specified because VW cooling systems have no brass.
> Not sure if the phosphates protect copper or the
> zinc.
> 
> Also, any transitions from the engine to the
> radiator
> and other items not attached to the engine should be
> made by a rubber coupling hose to brevent fracturing
> the pipes. Secure all pipes because of the high
> vibration levels.
> 
> --Nate
> --- Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> > I am currently doing an engine conversion.  A
> 1.6TD
> > into an '87 vanagon.  
> > Another conversion I have seen used copper
> plumbing
> > fittings, and straight pipe 
> > to fabricate the various hoses.  Is there any
> reason
> > not too?  Chemical 
> > reactions w/ coolant or other metals aluminum/cast
> > iron?  Those hoses can be pricey 
> > and I'd love to save the nickel.  Andrew
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


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From erikjlane at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  7 16:24:08 2004
From: erikjlane at yahoo.com (Erik Lane)
Date: Wed Apr  7 16:24:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <20040407193816.85936.qmail@web80808.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20040407201924.94695.qmail@web61205.mail.yahoo.com>

even the high temp cpvc is only rated to 180F so that
isn't nearly high enough to be safe with any engine
coolant system. normal pvc is rated quite a bit lower.
i wouldn't suggest using pvc for ANY automotive use.

erik
--- Nate Wall <natewall1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> PVC Pipe and fittings may be another option.
> 
> --Nate
> --- Nate Wall <natewall1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > I think the copper pipe and fittings are a great
> > idea.
> > Sweat soldering them, right? But I'd make sure I
> > used
> > a compatable coolant. The VW Phosphate Free
> coolant
> > is
> > specified because VW cooling systems have no
> brass.
> > Not sure if the phosphates protect copper or the
> > zinc.
> > 
> > Also, any transitions from the engine to the
> > radiator
> > and other items not attached to the engine should
> be
> > made by a rubber coupling hose to brevent
> fracturing
> > the pipes. Secure all pipes because of the high
> > vibration levels.
> > 
> > --Nate
> > --- Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> > > I am currently doing an engine conversion.  A
> > 1.6TD
> > > into an '87 vanagon.  
> > > Another conversion I have seen used copper
> > plumbing
> > > fittings, and straight pipe 
> > > to fabricate the various hoses.  Is there any
> > reason
> > > not too?  Chemical 
> > > reactions w/ coolant or other metals
> aluminum/cast
> > > iron?  Those hoses can be pricey 
> > > and I'd love to save the nickel.  Andrew
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > >
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> > 
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
> > http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
> _______________________________________________
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> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


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From r.c.brown at ieee.org  Wed Apr  7 16:27:12 2004
From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown)
Date: Wed Apr  7 16:27:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
References: <20040407201924.94695.qmail@web61205.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <40746419.20B6A1D9@ieee.org>

Erik Lane wrote:
> 
> even the high temp cpvc is only rated to 180F so that
> isn't nearly high enough to be safe with any engine
> coolant system. normal pvc is rated quite a bit lower.
> i wouldn't suggest using pvc for ANY automotive use.

I've even seen those flush kit tee fittings break over time.  One option is to get some brass pipe fittings, a tee and 3 hose barb fittigns to screw into the end.  

-- 
   Roger
From shea at gtsdesign.com  Wed Apr  7 16:36:08 2004
From: shea at gtsdesign.com (Gary Shea)
Date: Wed Apr  7 16:36:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>

I seem to remember some talk, ages ago, about some software that 'fakes'
a large monitor so that something like the vw parts cd, which demands a
21" monitor, can be used (albeit awkwardly) on a smaller monitor.  I
would rather like to put my 21" monitor away forever (it's HUGE!)

I can't find anything via google, wondering if y'all remember anything?

Regards,

        Gary

p.s. Still haven't had a chance to try out the latest round of vacuum
pump diaphragm suggestions, busy with front suspension and gear shift
issues.... (!)

From koldrid at uvm.edu  Wed Apr  7 16:44:09 2004
From: koldrid at uvm.edu (Kenneth E. Oldrid)
Date: Wed Apr  7 16:44:11 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>
Message-ID: <1081370644.4074681497513@webmail.uvm.edu>

Hey Gary,
I have the ETKA software, and I run it on a tiny 14" monitor. Before I pull up
ETKA, I go to adjust display qualities and change the setting to 1280x1024.
Then the program fits perfectly on the screen.
Hope this helps,
Ken

> I seem to remember some talk, ages ago, about some software that 'fakes'
> a large monitor so that something like the vw parts cd, which demands a
> 21" monitor, can be used (albeit awkwardly) on a smaller monitor.  I
> would rather like to put my 21" monitor away forever (it's HUGE!)
> 
> I can't find anything via google, wondering if y'all remember anything?
> 
> Regards,
> 
>         Gary
> 
> p.s. Still haven't had a chance to try out the latest round of vacuum
> pump diaphragm suggestions, busy with front suspension and gear shift
> issues.... (!)
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 


-- 

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Wed Apr  7 16:55:28 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Wed Apr  7 16:55:30 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: coolant hoses
Message-ID: <105.4381625e.2da5c4b1@wmconnect.com>

I was actually just going to use copper for elbows or tees. The rest I would 
use straight coolant hose and clamp at each connection.
From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Wed Apr  7 18:18:47 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Wed Apr  7 18:18:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Turbines &coolant hoses
Message-ID: <15345591.1081376321315.JavaMail.www@wwinf3001>

Here in the UK there is a childrens TV program called Blue Peter which incidentally coined the phrase "Here's one I made earlier"..Anyway a couple of months ago I caught a snippet of  a demonstration of a minature gas[I think]turbine that was bolted on the back of a skateboard...It was no bigger than an alternator on a Quantum. The Co. was based here in the UK and I'll try and find out more about it...
A weakness in my Quantum TD was the snaking hose that leads from the back of the water pump up to the metal pipe going to the heater..any way it rubs against the dip stick bracket wearing through...so I replaced the mid section with a bike saddle stem which conveniently has a built in reducer for the two diff hose end sizes that this pipe has :oD
The Miser 
Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From shea at gtsdesign.com  Wed Apr  7 18:29:02 2004
From: shea at gtsdesign.com (Gary Shea)
Date: Wed Apr  7 18:29:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor
In-Reply-To: <1081370644.4074681497513@webmail.uvm.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>
	<1081370644.4074681497513@webmail.uvm.edu>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071626450.5782@corfu.local.net>

Hi Ken --

Thanks for the suggestion... but...  the monitor I have available for my
one lonely Windows box won't do 1280 x 1024... and I hate to buy a
monitor for the Windows box, it doesn't get much use.  I used to hook up
the 21" to it, which was a big pain since that was my main monitor on my
unix boxes.  Now I'm retiring that one, just use a laptop these days.

I know the software is out there, I think it's free... arggh!  :)

        Gary

On Wed, 7 Apr 2004, at 16:44 [-0400], Kenneth E. Oldrid (koldrid@uvm.edu) wrote:

> Hey Gary,
> I have the ETKA software, and I run it on a tiny 14" monitor. Before I pull up
> ETKA, I go to adjust display qualities and change the setting to 1280x1024.
> Then the program fits perfectly on the screen.
> Hope this helps,
> Ken
> 
> > I seem to remember some talk, ages ago, about some software that 'fakes'
> > a large monitor so that something like the vw parts cd, which demands a
> > 21" monitor, can be used (albeit awkwardly) on a smaller monitor.  I
> > would rather like to put my 21" monitor away forever (it's HUGE!)
> > 
> > I can't find anything via google, wondering if y'all remember anything?
> > 
> > Regards,
> > 
> >         Gary
> > 
> > p.s. Still haven't had a chance to try out the latest round of vacuum
> > pump diaphragm suggestions, busy with front suspension and gear shift
> > issues.... (!)
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> 

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Wed Apr  7 18:41:28 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Wed Apr  7 18:41:29 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 59 .-- ( my bunny she no slows down ?
	).
Message-ID: <000201c41cf1$55b2e520$15ed7240@svend>

Some time ago one of you said that your Bunny did not seem
to slow down , when you took your foot off the pedal.

I stated  that         IMHO    it was a Bosch pump problem.

Today I  did  the testhill test that I said I would do.

VW diesels works just fine as a brake.   Hell I thought the Bunny was
going to stop deads to nails ---half way down the hill.

IMHO    lots of retarding from engine. ---    Val  Christian  next time you hit
your testhill  hows about it ???.

Hagar .

PS:   The testhill is where I test the Turbo   and all  ---going up the hill.
From wade at carsand.com  Wed Apr  7 20:57:17 2004
From: wade at carsand.com (Wade Yorke)
Date: Wed Apr  7 20:57:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tach for Diesel
Message-ID: <7F43B788-88F6-11D8-9D35-00039367F1C4@carsand.com>

	I had a 1.9TD installed in my '84 Westy and now trying to get a tach 
hooked up.  Apparently I would have to use a signal converter  (Dakota 
Digital   DSL-1 rev. A  ALTERNATOR TACH INTERFACE UNIT  getting signal 
from W terminal on the alternator) to use the stock tach.
	The other possibility would be to use an aftermarket tach if one is 
available that would work with a diesel without the expense of the 
signal converter.
	Someone had mentioned to me to get a tach from a '86 turbo diesel 
Jetta and swap it with the Vanagon gas tach.  I got the diesel tach but 
the mechanic doing the install could not see how it could work.  I know 
nothing about electronics so I am looking for suggestions.

p.s. if I do go the signal converter route, it has to be calibrated.  
Do diesels idle at a known rpm so I could use that figure as a 
baseline?

Thanks
Wade Yorke
Nova Scotia


  
  

From r.c.brown at ieee.org  Wed Apr  7 21:11:18 2004
From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown)
Date: Wed Apr  7 21:11:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tach for Diesel
References: <7F43B788-88F6-11D8-9D35-00039367F1C4@carsand.com>
Message-ID: <4074A6B2.3F4180C@ieee.org>

Wade Yorke wrote:
> 
>         I had a 1.9TD installed in my '84 Westy and now trying to get a tach
> hooked up.  Apparently I would have to use a signal converter  (Dakota
> Digital   DSL-1 rev. A  ALTERNATOR TACH INTERFACE UNIT  getting signal
> from W terminal on the alternator) to use the stock tach.
>         The other possibility would be to use an aftermarket tach if one is
> available that would work with a diesel without the expense of the
> signal converter.
>         Someone had mentioned to me to get a tach from a '86 turbo diesel
> Jetta and swap it with the Vanagon gas tach.  I got the diesel tach but
> the mechanic doing the install could not see how it could work.  I know
> nothing about electronics so I am looking for suggestions.

This page should answer the majority of your questions:
	http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/Tachometer/index.shtml


> p.s. if I do go the signal converter route, it has to be calibrated.
> Do diesels idle at a known rpm so I could use that figure as a
> baseline?

That's the crux of the matter.  You can get an optical or contact tachometer from Harbor Freight or similar that will show you the actual RPM for calibration purposes, figuer US$80 for one.



-- 
   Roger
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Thu Apr  8 00:38:07 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Thu Apr  8 00:38:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Turbines &coolant hoses
In-Reply-To: <15345591.1081376321315.JavaMail.www@wwinf3001>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOKEHMEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Mark, here's a buddy's page:

http://www.mooresturbines.com/

He's a smart and practical dude. Cranks these out in his backyard home shop
in Regina Saskatchewan.

This one's about the size of a modern alternator, and makes a scale jet go
REALLY fast.
http://www.mooresturbines.com/Applications.asp
The Hornet, top left pic goes like a bat. Seen that one go, and the sound...
it's real man.

They are extensively modded Kurt Schreckling designs, with all metal parts,
some unobtainium, etc.
Real cool.
-james

>
> Here in the UK there is a childrens TV program called Blue Peter
> which incidentally coined the phrase "Here's one I made
> earlier"..Anyway a couple of months ago I caught a snippet of  a
> demonstration of a minature gas[I think]turbine that was bolted
> on the back of a skateboard...It was no bigger than an alternator
> on a Quantum. The Co. was based here in the UK and I'll try and
> find out more about it...
> A weakness in my Quantum TD was the snaking hose that leads from
> the back of the water pump up to the metal pipe going to the
> heater..any way it rubs against the dip stick bracket wearing
> through...so I replaced the mid section with a bike saddle stem
> which conveniently has a built in reducer for the two diff hose
> end sizes that this pipe has :oD
> The Miser
> Join the UK's number one for the internet
> www.freeserve.com/time
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.647 / Virus Database: 414 - Release Date: 03/29/2004
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Thu Apr  8 01:36:54 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Thu Apr  8 01:36:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Aircooled and Diesel --- ( was you talking VW only ? )
In-Reply-To: <000201c41cb5$e662a7e0$4ced7240@svend>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMEHOEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


>
> 5 minutes to change an engine on a BEETLE  ?_  Try that on a
> Rabbit. ----   Does anyone know
> if that was a verified record ???.

The fastest time to switch the engine from one VW Beetle to another, then
drive 5 meters is 1 minute 37 seconds by a team of four mechanics, Stefan
Klotz, Ralf Kaelche, Markus Jung, and Stefan Worner, of Kaefer-Station Jung
Klotz. This happened in Mulhheim, Germany on January 17, 1999. It's in
Guinness.. book not ale.

I'm guessing here, but I'm thinking a couple of the boys are rather strong.

-James

---
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From erikjlane at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  8 02:30:26 2004
From: erikjlane at yahoo.com (Erik Lane)
Date: Thu Apr  8 02:30:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 59 .-- ( my bunny she no slows down
	? ).
In-Reply-To: <000201c41cf1$55b2e520$15ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <20040408063024.33998.qmail@web61205.mail.yahoo.com>

oh yeah, i did some testing a little while back on a
1/4 mile STEEP hill near here. i ran 3 different cars
- a 2000 VW Jetta GL TDI, a 2000 VW Beetle GLS 2.0L
gasser, and a 1981 VW Jetta 1.6L diesel.

i ran each car down the hill multiple times, with
different starting speeds, and repeating some speeds
to make sure that i was getting correct times cause i
was surprised.

i thought that they would be simliar results between
the different cars, and that might have affected the
outcome, but it's still impressively close. there was
only 1 mph difference at the bottom of the hill
between all three cars! the gasser was the slower one
at the bottom each time so yes, it was very slightly
better at engine braking, but that one mph is so
insignificant in my mind that i wouldn't even bother
with it. the two diesels were the same, even though
the cars were so different in age, engine size, and
weight of the body.

so that's what i found, which even surprised me.

i just wasn't sure i should get this whole topic
started again or if anyone else would care that much.
:)

erik

--- "H.Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org> wrote:
> Some time ago one of you said that your Bunny did
> not seem
> to slow down , when you took your foot off the
> pedal.
> 
> I stated  that         IMHO    it was a Bosch pump
> problem.
> 
> Today I  did  the testhill test that I said I would
> do.
> 
> VW diesels works just fine as a brake.   Hell I
> thought the Bunny was
> going to stop deads to nails ---half way down the
> hill.
> 
> IMHO    lots of retarding from engine. ---    Val 
> Christian  next time you hit
> your testhill  hows about it ???.
> 
> Hagar .
> 
> PS:   The testhill is where I test the Turbo   and
> all  ---going up the hill.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel


__________________________________
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From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  8 08:30:29 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Thu Apr  8 08:30:32 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Pallidium and Platinum Prices and Diesel Catalysts
In-Reply-To: <20040408063024.33998.qmail@web61205.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20040408123019.35996.qmail@web80807.mail.yahoo.com>

I was just checking precious metal prices and came
accross this on the monex.com site:

"For the second week in a row Palladium stole the show
among the Platinum Group Metals by breaching the $300
price level. Some of the rumors of an industrial
switch from Platinum to Palladium have started to come
to fruition. In a Reuters article on April 2nd it was
reported that diesel engines will account for about 50
percent of the new car market in Europe within the
next 5 years, and that there will be huge increases in
the demand for diesel vehicles coming out of China
over the next 20-30 years. Until recently, Platinum
based catalytic converters were the only alternative
for diesel vehicles. Umicore (a large Belgium-based
metal fabricator) has found a way to replace Platinum
with Palladium in diesel emission control systems and
plans are reportedly being made to implement this
process on a large scale. Should this occur, some
analysts have speculated that the two metals' prices
could meet somewhere between $300 and $900. Platinum
saw a dip of $25 from its weekly high of $917 on the
news coming out of Umicore, and Palladium went up as
high as $315 an ounce. The weekly lows for the metals
were $889 and $283, respectively."

--Nate
--- Erik Lane <erikjlane@yahoo.com> wrote:
> oh yeah, i did some testing a little while back on a
> 1/4 mile STEEP hill near here. i ran 3 different
> cars
> - a 2000 VW Jetta GL TDI, a 2000 VW Beetle GLS 2.0L
> gasser, and a 1981 VW Jetta 1.6L diesel.
> 
> i ran each car down the hill multiple times, with
> different starting speeds, and repeating some speeds
> to make sure that i was getting correct times cause
> i
> was surprised.
> 
> i thought that they would be simliar results between
> the different cars, and that might have affected the
> outcome, but it's still impressively close. there
> was
> only 1 mph difference at the bottom of the hill
> between all three cars! the gasser was the slower
> one
> at the bottom each time so yes, it was very slightly
> better at engine braking, but that one mph is so
> insignificant in my mind that i wouldn't even bother
> with it. the two diesels were the same, even though
> the cars were so different in age, engine size, and
> weight of the body.
> 
> so that's what i found, which even surprised me.
> 
> i just wasn't sure i should get this whole topic
> started again or if anyone else would care that
> much.
> :)
> 
> erik
> 
> --- "H.Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org> wrote:
> > Some time ago one of you said that your Bunny did
> > not seem
> > to slow down , when you took your foot off the
> > pedal.
> > 
> > I stated  that         IMHO    it was a Bosch pump
> > problem.
> > 
> > Today I  did  the testhill test that I said I
> would
> > do.
> > 
> > VW diesels works just fine as a brake.   Hell I
> > thought the Bunny was
> > going to stop deads to nails ---half way down the
> > hill.
> > 
> > IMHO    lots of retarding from engine. ---    Val 
> > Christian  next time you hit
> > your testhill  hows about it ???.
> > 
> > Hagar .
> > 
> > PS:   The testhill is where I test the Turbo   and
> > all  ---going up the hill.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
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From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Thu Apr  8 09:08:36 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Thu Apr  8 09:08:38 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Crankshaft Made Where?
Message-ID: <l3ia70lqqr1a1t8r9rad4sqrq0hn4b4ta4@4ax.com>

Some time ago I had my engine rebuilt by an outfit here in Seattle.
Before the work was started I made it clear to the owner that I wanted
my parts to be reused.  I now know that for some parts this request
was not followed.  Last night I noticed that the crankshaft in the
rebuilt engine was made in Brazil.

Is it possible that a 1984 Rabbit diesel (JK engine) could have a
crankshaft that was made in Brazil?

While lots of stuff on this engine was made in the USA and Canada, I
don't remember any original parts that were made in Brazil.  Does
anyone know the answer to this somewhat obscure question.


Gavrik Peterson
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Thu Apr  8 10:37:21 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Thu Apr  8 10:37:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Aircooled and Diesel --- ( was you talking VW only ? )
In-Reply-To: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMEHOEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
References: <000201c41cb5$e662a7e0$4ced7240@svend>
	<JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMEHOEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <20040408143658.GB11751@cybershamanix.com>

   On my '69 bus, I pulled the engine and put it back in, started it, and pulled
it back out 4 times in about 3 hours one afternoon. I was adding an external oil
cooler and filter and it took that many tries before I found the right set of
oil cooler gaskets. But that was the '69 bus, which had a removable rear body
panel which allowed the engine to pull straight out. In the later buses, that
same panel is welded in, so you have to have the bus jacked way up and then
lower the engine to clear it, makes it much, much harder to get in and
out. Someone on the Type2 list told me to try pulling the tranny with it, and
that made it much easier, both pulling and putting back. 


On Wed, Apr 07, 2004 at 11:36:44PM -0600, James Hansen wrote:
> 
> >
> > 5 minutes to change an engine on a BEETLE  ?_  Try that on a
> > Rabbit. ----   Does anyone know
> > if that was a verified record ???.
> 
> The fastest time to switch the engine from one VW Beetle to another, then
> drive 5 meters is 1 minute 37 seconds by a team of four mechanics, Stefan
> Klotz, Ralf Kaelche, Markus Jung, and Stefan Worner, of Kaefer-Station Jung
> Klotz. This happened in Mulhheim, Germany on January 17, 1999. It's in
> Guinness.. book not ale.
> 
> I'm guessing here, but I'm thinking a couple of the boys are rather strong.
> 
> -James
> 
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.647 / Virus Database: 414 - Release Date: 03/29/2004
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From iscass at shaw.ca  Thu Apr  8 11:16:07 2004
From: iscass at shaw.ca (cass)
Date: Thu Apr  8 11:16:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] heater hose for oil?
Message-ID: <022401c41d7b$f9151d70$0200a8c0@ccl475>

hi :o)

i had to use some heater hose to plumb in my vacuum lines/breather from block/
v/c and such.
will the oil/blowby destroy the heater hose faster (or at an alarming rate?)then a proper rated oil type hose?(is there such a thing?)
(i couldn't find any for oil :o/ )

thankyou..
cassie
(bringing jetta home this weekend !!!)
From r.c.brown at ieee.org  Thu Apr  8 11:19:41 2004
From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown)
Date: Thu Apr  8 11:19:42 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] heater hose for oil?
References: <022401c41d7b$f9151d70$0200a8c0@ccl475>
Message-ID: <40756D88.988AA94F@ieee.org>

cass wrote:
> 
> hi :o)
> 
> i had to use some heater hose to plumb in my vacuum lines/breather from block/
> v/c and such.
> will the oil/blowby destroy the heater hose faster (or at an alarming rate?)then a proper rated oil type hose?(is there such a thing?)
> (i couldn't find any for oil :o/ )

I think I used heater hose for my additional venting lines and it outlasted the vehicle, probably ran it for 5-6 years w/o problem on my '81.  Now have it on my '82 and its going on 3 years or so now.

-- 
   Roger
From it0mat0 at email.com  Thu Apr  8 14:33:58 2004
From: it0mat0 at email.com (W. Kennedy)
Date: Thu Apr  8 14:33:59 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit NA diesel
Message-ID: <20040408183248.5686E3CE273@ws3-4.us4.outblaze.com>

Greetings!

I just bought a *clean* 154K mi. '81 diesel rabbit.  After about 5 miles, the temp gauge is in the red, and steamy coolant is coming out from under the radiator cap.  The guy I bought it from said the thermostat had been replaced recently (not that he's to be trusted..).  There seems to be very high pressure in the top radiator hose, at least compared to my memory of my 84 Jetta diesel.  

I suspect it may just be a pressure issue from an old radiator cap (the seal itself has been flipped over due to grooves on the original side), coupled with air mixing in from the radiator overflow line (3/8" OD tube running from top of radiator)  The hose could be pulled off by hand if I tried.  I've watched what's happening inside the reservoir, and literally FOAM is coming from that narrow diameter hose.  

There is also evidence of previous overheating in dried spewage in the engine compartment (should I assume my head is warped?), and addition of some copper-flake-looking radiator sealant.  It's a Florida car, and has apparently had hard Florida water run in the radiator for 23 years, because there are signs of lime scale.

My question is; what can I do to eliminate the immediate overheating problem?  There seem to be several potential culprits.  

More details:  Other hoses i.e., to/from heater core, lower supply line on radiator do not have the squeeze resistance as the top rad hose.  I have not done a compression test.  The oil (changed yesterday) showed no signs of coolant contamination, and the exhaust smells like a diesel should - no obvious sweet coolant smell.

Any links, comments, "Hey, go read this diesel overheating FAQ", or emails are greatly appreciated..

Thanks for reading! VW diesel power...  ACTIVATE!
Juddy

P.S.
Are there any recommended H20 VW shops in Tampa?
-- 
___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com
http://promo.mail.com/adsfreejump.htm

From it0mat0 at email.com  Thu Apr  8 15:07:50 2004
From: it0mat0 at email.com (W. Kennedy)
Date: Thu Apr  8 15:07:50 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 14
Message-ID: <20040408190710.DFD451CE505@ws3-6.us4.outblaze.com>

Depending on which operating system you use, there are several ways you could accomplish this.  Windows 95&98 would let you have the physical display size of your monitor, but would scroll it over a much larger Windows Desktop, like looking at a big  picture through a smaller "window" that you can move around.  2000 & XP may still have a way to do this, check the help for "virtual", "dekstop", "resolution", etc.  

Check your favorite download sources for a utility to perform that function if all else fails.  It used to be a common solution to that problem back when the "standard" was 14-15" monitors..

Juddy

>I seem to remember some talk, ages ago, about some software that
'fakes'
> a large monitor so that something like the vw parts cd, which
demands a
> 21" monitor...
-- 
___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com
http://promo.mail.com/adsfreejump.htm

From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Thu Apr  8 15:16:23 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Thu Apr  8 15:16:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit NA diesel
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30580866F@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

Try it without the thermostat.  If it still gets hot, stick another
radiator in it.  Sounds like the PO had overheating issues prior to the
sale.  From what you report, it sounds like your engine is still OK or
you would have oil/water mixed somewhere.  One other thought, is the
water circulating well in the overflow tank?  If not, it could also be
the water pump.  You should see water stream back to the tank as soon as
the thermostat opens.  The radiator sounds like the culprit- either the
heater core was leaking (any evidence of that?) or the radiator and they
put some of that radiator plugging sealant in.  You should be able to
find a good radiator at the yard reasonable.  Hope this helps!

-----Original Message-----
From: W. Kennedy [mailto:it0mat0@email.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 12:33 PM
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit NA diesel


Greetings!

I just bought a *clean* 154K mi. '81 diesel rabbit.  After about 5
miles, the temp gauge is in the red, and steamy coolant is coming out
from under the radiator cap.  The guy I bought it from said the
thermostat had been replaced recently (not that he's to be trusted..).
There seems to be very high pressure in the top radiator hose, at least
compared to my memory of my 84 Jetta diesel.  

I suspect it may just be a pressure issue from an old radiator cap (the
seal itself has been flipped over due to grooves on the original side),
coupled with air mixing in from the radiator overflow line (3/8" OD tube
running from top of radiator)  The hose could be pulled off by hand if I
tried.  I've watched what's happening inside the reservoir, and
literally FOAM is coming from that narrow diameter hose.  

There is also evidence of previous overheating in dried spewage in the
engine compartment (should I assume my head is warped?), and addition of
some copper-flake-looking radiator sealant.  It's a Florida car, and has
apparently had hard Florida water run in the radiator for 23 years,
because there are signs of lime scale.

My question is; what can I do to eliminate the immediate overheating
problem?  There seem to be several potential culprits.  

More details:  Other hoses i.e., to/from heater core, lower supply line
on radiator do not have the squeeze resistance as the top rad hose.  I
have not done a compression test.  The oil (changed yesterday) showed no
signs of coolant contamination, and the exhaust smells like a diesel
should - no obvious sweet coolant smell.

Any links, comments, "Hey, go read this diesel overheating FAQ", or
emails are greatly appreciated..

Thanks for reading! VW diesel power...  ACTIVATE!
Juddy

P.S.
Are there any recommended H20 VW shops in Tampa?
-- 
___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com http://promo.mail.com/adsfreejump.htm

_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr  8 16:16:31 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Thu Apr  8 16:16:32 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>
Message-ID: <1081455394.30214.2.camel@gary.home.lan>

Hello,
If you happen to be running XP, you can set your resolution higher than
the monitor allows. It will go into virtual mode and let you pan around
a smaller screen. I have done this on my laptop. It only has a 1024x768
screen.

Panning is a pain, but gets the job done.

-Gary 


On Wed, 2004-04-07 at 16:37, Gary Shea wrote:
> I seem to remember some talk, ages ago, about some software that 'fakes'
> a large monitor so that something like the vw parts cd, which demands a
> 21" monitor, can be used (albeit awkwardly) on a smaller monitor.  I
> would rather like to put my 21" monitor away forever (it's HUGE!)
> 
> I can't find anything via google, wondering if y'all remember anything?
> 
> Regards,
> 
>         Gary
> 
> p.s. Still haven't had a chance to try out the latest round of vacuum
> pump diaphragm suggestions, busy with front suspension and gear shift
> issues.... (!)
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr  8 16:42:08 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Thu Apr  8 16:42:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Crankshaft Made Where?
In-Reply-To: <l3ia70lqqr1a1t8r9rad4sqrq0hn4b4ta4@4ax.com>
References: <l3ia70lqqr1a1t8r9rad4sqrq0hn4b4ta4@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <1081456933.30215.10.camel@gary.home.lan>

A diesel crank from Brazil? I wouldn't doubt it.

Surprisingly, on this era of engines, there were many parts that were
shared between diesel and (sic)gassers. If I'm not mistaken, it used to
be the thing to use a 1.6 diesel crank in a 2.0 gasser racer... or
something like that.

There are many pieces that can be reused during a rebuild. The crank was
probably wore beyond specs. The mechanic probably assumed that a
"rebuilt" crank was equivalent to reusing you old one. It was probably
simply exchanged for a crank that was on the shelf ready to go.

-Gary 


On Thu, 2004-04-08 at 09:08, Gavrik Peterson wrote:
> Some time ago I had my engine rebuilt by an outfit here in Seattle.
> Before the work was started I made it clear to the owner that I wanted
> my parts to be reused.  I now know that for some parts this request
> was not followed.  Last night I noticed that the crankshaft in the
> rebuilt engine was made in Brazil.
> 
> Is it possible that a 1984 Rabbit diesel (JK engine) could have a
> crankshaft that was made in Brazil?
> 
> While lots of stuff on this engine was made in the USA and Canada, I
> don't remember any original parts that were made in Brazil.  Does
> anyone know the answer to this somewhat obscure question.
> 
> 
> Gavrik Peterson
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Thu Apr  8 19:37:30 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Thu Apr  8 19:37:31 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Differences between TD and NA longblock '86-'92
Message-ID: <b8.55410601.2da73c32@wmconnect.com>

Anyone know for sure?  I've read what Bentley says.  I've heard other 
"experts" give contradictory info.  Can the oil squirters be retrofit to a n/a block? 
 I've heard that the machining is there, but plugged in the n/a.
Andrew
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Thu Apr  8 19:51:50 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Thu Apr  8 19:51:51 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit NA diesel  --( keep a cool head )
Message-ID: <000201c41dc4$54c1d080$5bed7240@svend>

My question is; what can I do to eliminate the immediate overheating problem?  

Here is what I would do pronto :      Scribe a precise line pump to bracket.

Move pump back two pencil lines and try it again.   And let us know.

Spray the belt and pulley with belt dressing ---and check tension.

Hagar.
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Thu Apr  8 20:38:59 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Thu Apr  8 20:39:01 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit NA diesel -- ( things I fergot to
	mention. )
Message-ID: <000a01c41dca$ed215340$5aed7240@svend>

Start it up cold   ---hold hand over opening in reservoir -- if pressure builds up fast
exhaust gas is entering cooling system.      "Foaming" is a bad sign..

Wish I was in Florida again ----for a month or so.

Hagar.
From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Thu Apr  8 23:16:18 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Thu Apr  8 23:16:19 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Crankshaft Made Where?
In-Reply-To: <1081456933.30215.10.camel@gary.home.lan>
References: <l3ia70lqqr1a1t8r9rad4sqrq0hn4b4ta4@4ax.com>
	<1081456933.30215.10.camel@gary.home.lan>
Message-ID: <mq4c70hs71vodq7njsi145sjjvtpff22c1@4ax.com>

Actually the rebuild shop reported that my crankshaft had very little
wear as did most of the engine.  Besides a slow leak in the head
gasket and leaky valve seals, the only thing wrong with the engine was
that there was a lot of ring wear.

I just checked the 83' diesel engine that sits in my mom's garage.
The crankshaft on this engine was also manufactured in Brazil.  This
is the original crankshaft, so it appears that it was common for VW to
make engines with cranks from Brazil.

So, it appears that I am being way to paranoid in thinking that the
rebuild shop has substituted some other crankshaft for mine.  It
appears that they have done substantially what I asked.

Gavrik Peterson

On Thu, 08 Apr 2004 16:42:13 -0400, you wrote:

>A diesel crank from Brazil? I wouldn't doubt it.
>
>Surprisingly, on this era of engines, there were many parts that were
>shared between diesel and (sic)gassers. If I'm not mistaken, it used to
>be the thing to use a 1.6 diesel crank in a 2.0 gasser racer... or
>something like that.
>
>There are many pieces that can be reused during a rebuild. The crank was
>probably wore beyond specs. The mechanic probably assumed that a
>"rebuilt" crank was equivalent to reusing you old one. It was probably
>simply exchanged for a crank that was on the shelf ready to go.
>
>-Gary 
>
>
>On Thu, 2004-04-08 at 09:08, Gavrik Peterson wrote:
>> Some time ago I had my engine rebuilt by an outfit here in Seattle.
>> Before the work was started I made it clear to the owner that I wanted
>> my parts to be reused.  I now know that for some parts this request
>> was not followed.  Last night I noticed that the crankshaft in the
>> rebuilt engine was made in Brazil.
>> 
>> Is it possible that a 1984 Rabbit diesel (JK engine) could have a
>> crankshaft that was made in Brazil?
>> 
>> While lots of stuff on this engine was made in the USA and Canada, I
>> don't remember any original parts that were made in Brazil.  Does
>> anyone know the answer to this somewhat obscure question.
>> 
>> 
>> Gavrik Peterson
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From ptk9417 at ritvax.isc.rit.edu  Fri Apr  9 09:55:56 2004
From: ptk9417 at ritvax.isc.rit.edu (Paul Kurucz)
Date: Fri Apr  9 09:55:57 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <4073AC78.1010505@acetank.com>
References: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
	<4073AC78.1010505@acetank.com>
Message-ID: <20040409094901.0ec5808f.ptk9417@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>

> hard braking.  Of course what is really needed is a diesel-powered 
> hybrid!  Anyone doing a conversion??

Not exactly what you are looking for, but anyways... Look under the "electric drive" link at the bottom of the page, or on the left hand side.

http://www.evcl.com/vw/


Paul Kurucz
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Fri Apr  9 14:37:08 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Fri Apr  9 14:37:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 60. --- ( the april 9 1940 memory )
Message-ID: <000201c41e61$8a8bdf60$5ced7240@svend>

It is fitting that I summarize my DIESEL memories today.
Is there a link ?  ----  a very important one.     I stood there on the
street-corner of Gemmas alle and Amager Landevej in shock and awe.
In front of me was Lufthavns-vejen     a road to the Copenhagen airport.

Diesel aircraft's above  ---diesel panzers on the road . The airport "Kastrup"
was coming under  new management.
And here I am 64 years later --- driving a German Diesel every day.

Life sure is interesting  ----   say I.

I am flabbergasted , stunned, and surprised   that my droppings are of interest
to more than a few of you.

And they would have stopped long time ago ---was it not for some encouragement
from some members.

We all want to be recognized and appreciated ----and I am no different.

A parting comment on special tools as mentioned in Bentley (scared me to at beginning)
NONE are needed.------ all can be fabricated with minimum handtools.

Sorry ---got to go take my Easter " Bunny" for joyride   ---- downright addictive.

Hagar .      ( the thorn in hitlers ass )

PS: on the  05 may 1945  I got my hands on all them diesels . you bet.
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Fri Apr  9 15:25:15 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Fri Apr  9 15:25:16 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
In-Reply-To: <20040409094901.0ec5808f.ptk9417@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
References: <200404070035.UAA25835@swamps.roc.ny.us>
	<4073AC78.1010505@acetank.com>
	<20040409094901.0ec5808f.ptk9417@ritvax.isc.rit.edu>
Message-ID: <20040409192517.GA15224@cybershamanix.com>

   There is a company converting Hummvees and 2.5ton 6x6's to hybrid for the
military. For the Hummvee they are using a 1.9TDI engine.


On Fri, Apr 09, 2004 at 09:49:01AM -0400, Paul Kurucz wrote:
> > hard braking.  Of course what is really needed is a diesel-powered 
> > hybrid!  Anyone doing a conversion??
> 
> Not exactly what you are looking for, but anyways... Look under the "electric drive" link at the bottom of the page, or on the left hand side.
> 
> http://www.evcl.com/vw/
> 
> 
> Paul Kurucz
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From cz at ozarkisp.net  Fri Apr  9 16:41:12 2004
From: cz at ozarkisp.net (Brock)
Date: Fri Apr  9 16:41:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] air cooled gas---------Thanks
Message-ID: <000301c41e72$e36b94c0$8403db40@brock>

Thank you guys for taking the time to help me.

Brock
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  9 19:18:31 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Fri Apr  9 19:18:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: Here it the response I got from Castrol consumer
	relations about 505.01
References: <20040405193252.69333.qmail@web42005.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV37pqFGtIMo0002e14b@hotmail.com>

Just another ploy to get you to pay stealership prices.

Buck the system and buy MOTUL 505.01 5w-40 instead.

http://www.motul.com/motulbaseuk/gab_fiche1.asp

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98 miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "82 Diesel Westy" <dieselwesty@yahoo.com>
To: "TexasTDI" <texasvwdriver@hotmail.com>
Cc: <Vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: Here it the response I got from Castrol consumer relations
about 505.01

>
> VW only plans to sell roughly 1,200 units annually of
> the "Pumpe-duese" equipped VW Jetta's and Passat's
> that would require the 505.01 lubricant.
> The 505.01 engine oil is specifically formulated to
> ensure protection of the cam lobes that drive the unit
> injectors. High loading requires the proper level of
> antiwear protection. In turn VW needs to ensure that
> 505.01 is utilized for this engine design. The cam
> shafts are mechanically driven and assist in the build
> up of fuel pressure in each injector
> Castrol 505 01 is not available through Castrol in
> North America. Castrol is supplying Castrol 505 01 and
> this product is available through VW dealerships who
> order the product from Europe.   It is branded as
> Castrol 505 01 oil and has a VW part number (G 052
> 167A2).
>
> Thanks all,
>
>
> =====
> Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
> 04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp
> 82 Westfalia Diesel, 1.9L NA hybrid, under body restoration & engine
re-work
> 90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD
> 70 Type 1 Beetle
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  9 19:38:31 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Fri Apr  9 19:38:32 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
References: <000d01c41b39$15d0ae60$4ced7240@svend>
	<005001c41b76$55314640$6600a8c0@lee>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV22Wn9R6mJB0002e3db@hotmail.com>

AFAIK, the first synthetic oils were designed for, and used in, jet engines.

Synthetic oils invented for, and used in, automobiles took place in 1972, by
a little known company at the time by the name of AMSOIL.  Mobil introduced
Mobil 1 synthetic in 1975.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee Hillsgrove" <hillsgrove@adelphia.net>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "H.Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 2:07 PM
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
>
>
> >
>
> >Synthetic oils have been a disaster in the past ---- American advertising
> again.
> >So be careful.
> >
> >The turbo is a special case ----- If you shut down a turbo red
hot.----the
> heat travels along
> >the shaft to the bearing ---and it cooks the oil. In that case the  Mobil
> Delvac 1  is a better
> >choice. BUT ? do you do that.?.   Do I own shares in Exxon ?   NO.
> >
> >Synthetic Oils were invented say  1930 era , so why did it take   about
50
> years to ban
> >production of some of them ?  ---- like pyranol askarel etc.
> >
> >So  Delvac 1 and scamzoils and what not will never be banned ???? ---
> think.
> >
>
>
>
>   To which I say..... Huh?
>
>   I didn't catch a bit of the thrust of that whole passage. Except that a
> hot turbo will coke the bearings.
>
>
>   Lee
>   Oo-v-oO
>   PP-ASEL
>   KB1GNI
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Fri Apr  9 19:58:17 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Fri Apr  9 19:58:19 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's
References: <88.7a2a28b.2da46174@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV560s671G3R0002e100@hotmail.com>

I've owned both and my vote is for diesel.

IMO, a diesel engine is better than a gasser simply due to less required
maintenance.  True, air-cooled engine has no radiator, but it still has
spark plugs, spark plug wires, and a distributor that has to be replaced
periodically.  A diesel doesn't.

A diesel engine requires the least amount of maintenance, gets better fuel
mileage, and diesel fuel itself is usually cheaper than gasoline.
Therefore, IMO, the diesel engine is the better engine.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Libbybapa@wmconnect.com>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Air cooled gas VW's versus Diesel VW's


> Just thought I'd raise a little trouble.  Anyone care to post their
opinions?
>  Which is better and why, aircooled gas or diesel?  Probably not an
unbiased
> group, but what the heck, just thought I'd ask?
> Andrew
> P.S. Try to keep it objective/civil.
>
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Fri Apr  9 21:27:23 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Fri Apr  9 21:27:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Difference between TD and NA longblock
Message-ID: <154.32381102.2da8a776@wmconnect.com>

What are the differences between the '86 to '92 turbodiesel longblock and the 
naturally aspirated diesel volkswagen longblock?   Anyone car to share their 
knowledge??  Are the rings the same?  I was told by an "Expert" (bigtime, big 
city, german parts establishment) that after '86 there was no difference 
between the TD and the NA vw diesel longblock.  Despite my pointing out the 
differences that Bentley talks about, I was told that post '86 there was no 
difference.  I pointed out that the heads had different part #'s in the casting (just 
one letter-the T before the D at the end).  I was told there was still no 
difference?? Any opinions, facts?? Also can the N/a shortblock be retrofit with the 
oil squirters and used as turbo?  I have read that the head gaskets are 
different, and also been told by others that they are not different.  What about 
the rings?  Help would really be appreciated from any Knowledgeable folks. 
Andrew
From slowmachine at cox.net  Fri Apr  9 22:07:23 2004
From: slowmachine at cox.net (Michael Snow)
Date: Fri Apr  9 22:07:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Difference between TD and NA longblock
In-Reply-To: <154.32381102.2da8a776@wmconnect.com>
References: <154.32381102.2da8a776@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <407756BF.1080301@cox.net>

Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> What are the differences between the '86 to '92 turbodiesel longblock and the 
> naturally aspirated diesel volkswagen longblock?   Anyone car to share their 
> knowledge??  Are the rings the same?  I was told by an "Expert" (bigtime, big 
> city, german parts establishment) that after '86 there was no difference 
> between the TD and the NA vw diesel longblock.  Despite my pointing out the 
> differences that Bentley talks about, I was told that post '86 there was no 
> difference.  I pointed out that the heads had different part #'s in the casting (just 
> one letter-the T before the D at the end).  I was told there was still no 
> difference?? Any opinions, facts?? Also can the N/a shortblock be retrofit with the 
> oil squirters and used as turbo?  I have read that the head gaskets are 
> different, and also been told by others that they are not different.  What about 
> the rings?  Help would really be appreciated from any Knowledgeable folks. 

According to ETKA for 1986-1992 German manufactured Jettas, the part 
numbers for the cylinder heads are different.  068 103 351 AA-AC are 
used on the N/A engine.  068 103 351 AD is used on the TD.  Intake 
valves are the same, exhaust valves different.  Crankshafts and rods are 
the same.  Pistons and rings are different.

I have heard of the N/A blocks being drilled for oil squirters, but have 
never seen one myself.  These engines (codes ME and MF) use hydraulic 
lifter heads that cannot be mounted on earlier blocks.  The earlier 
mechanical lifter heads can be mounted on a later block by plugging the 
extra oil drainback hole.

If you need to dig further into the details, I suggest you get a copy of 
ETKA.  It is an invaluable reference tool.

Michael Snow
1982 Westfalia 1.9D
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Fri Apr  9 22:55:27 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Fri Apr  9 22:55:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Difference between TD and NA longblock
Message-ID: <59.9106873.2da8bc1a@wmconnect.com>

What is ETKA and where do I get a copy?
From william at taygan.com  Sat Apr 10 00:11:51 2004
From: william at taygan.com (Will Taygan)
Date: Sat Apr 10 00:11:53 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] coolant burping vw pickup
Message-ID: <10ea01c41eb1$ed872c00$f9ea480c@finneyg9nhzs76>

1980 diesel pickup 1.5L NA.  New head gasket. rebuilt head.

all right, I've filled the engine and the radiator from the top radiator hose with 50/50 phosphate-free coolant and water.  The thermostat has a 1/8" hole in it as well. It runs fine, radiator gets hot, fan turns on, I'm running it with the expansion cap off to burp it.  It doesn't overheat according to the temp gauge.

after 5 minutes or so I get a violent boiling from the main line leading up from the heater core (not the radiator overflow line)  about a liter of coolant spills out and then it subsides, I top it off, turn it off and then process repeats the next time I run it.

What's going on???  Is this the normal burp, or should I pull the thermostat and test it, as well as trying to spin the water pump with the belt holding it in place to see if it's working?

If I leave the cap on everything seems fine, although it's boiling inside.

Thanks

Will Taygan
Concrete, WA


From it0mat0 at email.com  Sat Apr 10 00:42:29 2004
From: it0mat0 at email.com (W. Kennedy)
Date: Sat Apr 10 00:42:30 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit  & diesel vs. air cooled
Message-ID: <20040410044110.E4E3D1536DC@ws3-1.us4.outblaze.com>

Eureka!

K.I.S.S. shone through!  I replaced the thermostat, flushed the system, and changed the oil.  Temperature normal.  Even running A/C! The pressure seems to be normal.  No real resistance when I squeeze any hoses.

How do I spell relief? "No evidence of overheating due to head crackage or other expensive situation."

For good measure, once every thing was sealed back up, coolant mix added, I lifted out the reservoir, and tilted it side to side.  Fluid leaked out from the overflow and return lines.  I trimmed & refitted the hoses.  Something in me thinks that there was some reverse atomization happening with air getting sucked in with the coolant.  

Anyway, to summarize; always start with the basics.  It's seldom going to be as major as it appears.

-------------

Water Cooled Diesel vs. Air Cooled Gas?

Diesel.  No question.  

Milage, maintenance, modernity, practicality (out of M's).  Air cooled VW's are cool-as-all, no doubt.  They're quirky, unique, faithful, but also cantankerous, needy, and slow.  Diesels may be somewhat slow, but they are far less cantankerous and needy, especially considering that they've got more than enough quirky, faithful, and practical to compete with the air-cooled v-dubs in those categories.

All the valve adjustment, the dimes and epoxy, crappy distributor clamps, push starting, crapped-out points & their necessary periodic setting..  It's just too much.  PLUS, there's not a 5-speed among them (that's not aftermarket), and precious few with A/C.

I've had a bus, a bug, and a ghia, and NONE compare to a diesel VW for 'getting in and going'.  Give me a sparkling-clean diesel Jetta, and I'll drive it to my grave.
-- 
___________________________________________________________
Sign-up for Ads Free at Mail.com
http://promo.mail.com/adsfreejump.htm

From slowmachine at cox.net  Sat Apr 10 01:09:26 2004
From: slowmachine at cox.net (Michael Snow)
Date: Sat Apr 10 01:09:27 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Difference between TD and NA longblock
In-Reply-To: <59.9106873.2da8bc1a@wmconnect.com>
References: <59.9106873.2da8bc1a@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <40778182.4050007@cox.net>

Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:

> What is ETKA and where do I get a copy?

ETKA is the software that VW dealers use to look up parts.  There is 
usually somebody selling it on EBay.  Just search for ETKA.

<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2472694954&category=6755&sspagename=WDVW>

Michael Snow
1982 Westfalia 1.9D
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr 10 01:32:38 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr 10 01:32:39 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Powerplant Trades
Message-ID: <149.26440eba.2da8e0ee@aol.com>


> Thirty years ago who would have thought that a 
> full-sized car with a 300 hp gasoline engine could get 20 mph?  My '58 
> VW bug with about a tenth that horsepower didn't get much better mileage 
> than that.
> 

  I dunno, Dad had a '60 Chevy wagon that he dropped a 300hp 327 
in, changed the rear end and had great power and 19+ mpg in a 
HEAVY car.  Got around 20 at 90mph in his '49 Merc as well.  His 
57 Bug got something like 32mpg over the whole time he owned it.  
It made something like 38 mpg on the initial drive home. :)

  I'd had thoughts LONG ago about semi hybrids.  A guy in Seattle 
was turning out electric cars here and there and I had the idea of 
using less battery weight and a small generator to supplement it.  
Less weight, keep the range and have the ability to recharge anywhere 
as long as you have fuel.  I think I'd had the idea of mechanically linking 
a small diesel with the electric for suppplemental or switchable power 
with a good sized alternator.  Basically a small diesel powered car 
with an electric motor for more power when you needed it.  I proposed 
it to Steve and he said it'd never work.  Guess I shouldn't have 
listened!
  It was BEAUTY-FUL at the beach the last coule days!  : )
Mostly fixed pipes that froze/rusted last winter, mowed and slept.
     Loren
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Sat Apr 10 02:03:22 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Sat Apr 10 02:03:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
In-Reply-To: <BAY10-DAV22Wn9R6mJB0002e3db@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOKEKJEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


> Synthetic oils invented for, and used in, automobiles took place
> in 1972, by
> a little known company at the time by the name of AMSOIL.  Mobil
> introduced
> Mobil 1 synthetic in 1975.
>

Dad tells me that he used synthetic oils in his cars in the fifties when he
worked for mobil.  Said they were extremely good.
I'm thinking the definition of synthetic has evolved a tad over time
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.647 / Virus Database: 414 - Release Date: 03/29/2004


From jhsg at sasktel.net  Sat Apr 10 02:03:37 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Sat Apr 10 02:03:38 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Differences between TD and NA longblock '86-'92
In-Reply-To: <b8.55410601.2da73c32@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOOEKJEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Higher volume oil pump, also.  I'm thinking that it partly falls into the
"so what" category.  They are different, but can be made to be the same.
The parts and labor required to make a turbo block out of an NA block would
quite possibly negate any potential savings making it more feasible to get a
turbo block in tyhe first place.  I'm surrounded by turbo blocks anyway, so
it's never really been an issue around here (Canada).

Sounds like another Parts Place scam.

They may be partially right however- If you ordered a factory rebuilt
longblock from the dealer, you may have received a turbo ready block
regardless of the application.  Less variety to stock. It may be what was,
but the engines in cars were different.  NA engine was an NA block. Turbo
engine was a turbo block with the piston cooling jets etc.

You could retrofit as long as you had sufficient oil gallery size to support
the increased flow and were prepared to clean properly, flush galleries,
etc.

Loren should know.

Oh, ETKA is the VW parts cd that floats around every now and again.  It is
copywrited material, a criminal offence punishable by law to duplicate,
distribute, blah blah... You can't buy a copy from the dealer either. It's
on the net. The older copys had very shoddy security.


-James

> Anyone know for sure?  I've read what Bentley says.  I've heard other
> "experts" give contradictory info.  Can the oil squirters be
> retrofit to a n/a block?
>  I've heard that the machining is there, but plugged in the n/a.
> Andrew
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.647 / Virus Database: 414 - Release Date: 03/29/2004


From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr 10 03:00:13 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr 10 03:00:14 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Differences between TD and NA longblock '86-'92
Message-ID: <134.2d7da600.2da8f579@aol.com>

  Not sure about the later NA blocks but the earlier ones DO NOT have the 
bosses cast into them to install actual oil squirters.  Unless you have 
a full size milling machine and are proficient at it, it wouldn't be worth 
it just for the amount of work this one process would take.  There's a
surface to mill flat, a hole to drill and ream and another to drill and tap.
(X 4)
  I've modified two different blocks for "oil squirters."   They aren't 
pressure sensitive like the originals and they aren't as precise but 
the oil flow to them can be eliminated and they do indeed quickly 
transfer heat from the pistons to the oil.  :)  They are simple, no 
buck...  hillbilly?  ;-D
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr 10 03:06:38 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr 10 03:06:40 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Wisdom and Insight --- ( where from ???? )
Message-ID: <65.2682078b.2da8f6f9@aol.com>


> Dad tells me that he used synthetic oils in his cars in the fifties when he
> worked for mobil.  Said they were extremely good.
> I'm thinking the definition of synthetic has evolved a tad over time
> 

  Anybody remember the Union 76 purple "grape juice" oil?  Dad and I were 
talking about that the other day.  Apparently a really detergent oil as 
it wasn't recommended for older cars and he said he couldn't run it 
in one of his cars.  It weeped out all over the place.  Sure cleaned 
up the innards though!
     Loren
From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Sat Apr 10 05:08:12 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Sat Apr 10 05:08:14 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bubble, Bubble...Toil &Trouble
Message-ID: <8447104.1081588086520.JavaMail.www@wwinf3004>

Will, 
You havent dropped a pencil off the back of your earand sandwiched it between block and head 'ave you? :o) 

Seriously... 
You need to discover whether the bubbling is heat related or not... 
>From COLD Turn engine/start for 10 to 15 seconds and then turn off again. 
With ear closeby loosen rad. cap and listen for a psst. If you get one then your gasket is leaking or worse still you may have a crack in head/block... 
no noise then it's a circularity [huh?] problem... 


Mark (The Miser)Uk 
"There's nothing more stimulating than driving past a bonfire and then realising it's your car that's smokin"
Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr 10 11:39:47 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr 10 11:39:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] coolant burping vw pickup
Message-ID: <53.91ca355.2da96f37@aol.com>

  You "burp" it initially with the system closed.  : )  Fill and all just 
like you 
did and then warm it up until the fan cycles but be sure the heater is 
on but the heater fan OFF and the reservoir cap off.  Then shut it down, 
wait about 5 minutes and slowly remove the cap.  Then you can refill.  
When I was running a really hot stat I had this problem when I ran 
straight water in it.  Ended up with a blown gasket.  Not positive 
which came first but the stat would never open with straight water in it.
  You might have a buble, you might have a problem.  Once you get a 
complete cycle in it though, you should be able to run it with the cap 
off.  If it still does it then you either have a bad stat, combustion leak 
into 
the coolant or a stubborn air bubble.  Try a couple more cylces and if it 
still erupts then look for the other possibilities.
     Loren
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sat Apr 10 12:26:54 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sat Apr 10 12:26:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating diesels   -- ( keeping a COOL head )
Message-ID: <000201c41f18$803a5840$5ced7240@svend>

IMHO      very important.       What does K.I.S.S mean ?

There is also evidence of previous overheating     Any links, comments, 

and addition of some copper-flake-looking radiator sealant.  

(should I assume my head is warped?), 

W.Kennedy. ---Florida 81 Rabbit.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is my experience with 1980 1.5L NA ---- hothead Bunny.      The cooling system
could be a lot better.   And these Bunny's are notorious for warped heads and
head-gasket problems.    Thanks to Loren and all most my problems are behind me.

All the information is accessible in archives --  so I will only mention the tough ones.
PO  has a head-gasket leak -- put in several doses of rad-seal . If leak is combustion to
coolant ---do not do that.   Rad was partly blocked and big chunks of seal (looks like
bread crumbs) was welded to impeller on pump  --had to be scraped and blasted off.
Blocked Rad and a  pump that wont pump----She most have been really sweating. .   What did I do ?
Pulled rad and backflushed using garden hose.   Two full cups of breadcrumbs
came out --- took a lot of flushing to clean.    Removed water-pump and cleaned 
impeller  .   Then I speeded up waterpump to same speed as used on 1.6L. 
Simple to do.
My friend Robert had 1.5L NA  1981 Rabbit.    He is a master "Hillbilly Tuner"   --
going up the hill she boiled.  He moved pump back a pencil line . She is working like
a dream to this day ---He sold it to a woman who drives like a maniac.

So the word is keep a COOL head or she will twist her head.

If my girlfriend or wife wants a Rabbit ?   it is going to be a gas job.--believe it.
Far more forgiving.

PS: Loren you know what weather has been like lately ?  So what did I drive
on the beach yeasterday  ---an "Airhead"   dunebuggy deluxe  ----and fun it was.

Hagar.

PS: Airhead versus Diesel VW  --its a moot qestion.
From scameron at compmore.net  Sat Apr 10 18:13:47 2004
From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron)
Date: Sat Apr 10 18:13:49 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating 81 Rabbit  & diesel vs. air cooled
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20040410221049.006779dc@pop3.compmore.net>

A little earlier this spring I was having trouble with the 87 TD
overheating. It seemed to com on over a couple of weeks and quickly got
worse, so I could only drive about 40 mph/70kph without the guage starting
to climb quickly.

I hate doing thermostats on A2s with PS. All that bracketry!

Got the stat out and cooked it in a pot. It opened around 95c, I looked at
it closely and noticed it was a 90 degree stat. never saw one before. It was
a genuine 4circle stat, and seemed to open ok, but I thought 'this event is
not yet concluded'.
After all,  from idle to 40mph, the temp was being regulated at the center
of the guage as always. Heater is probably taking care of the cooling there.
Stuck in a new 87c stat (behr?).

Bottom rad hose is already off, so out she comes. This car has been mine
since 1990 (360,000 km ago) and I have never used cornflakes in the radiator
(or banannas in the tranny), but when I started to flush the rad, gobs of
slime came out into the sink. Mea culpa. I have from time to time re-used
used antifreeze, although I usually filter it first.

I think The AF must have been breaking down into slime (non visible in the
reservoir). After a thorough reverse flushing with hot water and buttoning
the system up, refilled it with expensive orange antifreeze & 50/50
distilled water. took it for a drive. guage never went over the LED. Hauled
1/4 ton of firewiood in the big trailer, still stayed cool. 

That radiator is an effective strainer (until it is completely plugged) and
seems to gather the solids in its core. Periodic flushing is recommended,
and dont re-use antifreeze.

Sandy


From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sat Apr 10 21:25:15 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sat Apr 10 21:25:16 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Camshaft -- broken -- ( in three pieces )
Message-ID: <000201c41f63$b7eb6fe0$72ed7240@svend>

Would the fella that had the broken shaft please step forward ????.

Thank you.

Hagar.
From scameron at compmore.net  Sat Apr 10 21:29:01 2004
From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron)
Date: Sat Apr 10 21:29:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] More on overheating and plugged rads
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20040411012605.0066dbf4@pop3.compmore.net>

 when I started to flush the rad, gobs of
>slime came out into the sink. Mea culpa. I have from time to time re-used
>used antifreeze, although I usually filter it first.
>
>I think The AF must have been breaking down into slime (non visible in the
>reservoir).

I remember an incident a few years ago where a friend had a 16 ft camping
trailer.
He had winterized it by dumping a lot of RV antifreeze (propylene glycol)
into the water tank, and pumping some of it through the plumbing. there was
still quite a bit in the tank when he laid it up for the winter.

He did not use it the next summer, but when he went to ready it the
following summer, the pump inlet from the tank plugged up. I helped him get
the tank out of the trailer, and the A/F had turned to pink jelly. We
managed to get it out through the filler opening, and had to scrub the
inside of the tank in places with long bottle brushes and hot water to get
the stuff off that had stuck to the tank. It did not want to wash out.

If there are any organic chemists in the list, please comment. 
I know you can drink PG safely, and it is used in many foods, like Ice cream.
I wonder if EG (ethylene glycol) is somewhat similar stuff? (but poison)

I suspect some kind of bacteria enjoy munching on the stuff when it is at
the right temperature, turning it to jelly.

Maybe this is what happened to my old used antifreeze sitting in jugs in the
garage for a year or two. It should be stable as long as it's in the car
engine, as it would be sterilized any time the engine got up to temperature,
but perhaps after sitting in an open pan for a few weeks, and being stored
in plastic jugs at ambient temps for a year or 2, the little buggers start
munching again.

The blob rises again!!

OK chemists, rise to the bait.

Sandy

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sat Apr 10 23:05:13 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sat Apr 10 23:05:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] More on overheating and plugged rads
Message-ID: <92.807ae0d.2daa0fe2@aol.com>


> The blob rises again!!
> 
> OK chemists, rise to the bait.
> 

  After that lovely thought of yours (yeeech!) maybe a biologist!
     Loren
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sun Apr 11 13:43:30 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sun Apr 11 13:43:31 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Overheating diesels a -- ( keeping a COOL head )  
Message-ID: <000201c41fec$5f834d80$8bed7240@svend>

W.Kennedy   81  Florida Bunny.   asked.:

(should I assume my head is warped?), 

YES .     It is warped -----but do not panic .   Degree is deciding .
It is also cracked  ---but do not panic.     How wide and how deep
is deciding.
If cracks are down to coolant gallery --you have to do things.
When you remove head , you will find that metal has been pulled up around
headbolt threads.In block.            ----can be removed by sanding.

Use small pin drift to peen cracks closed.--- cracks can be fixed.

Tell us if it is original engine ---and is it a 1.5L NA ?

Hagar.   

PS:  Find cracks between valves.
From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Sun Apr 11 20:17:00 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Sun Apr 11 20:17:02 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Impact Tools
Message-ID: <200404120054.UAA26957@swamps.roc.ny.us>

Strolling through Walmart, I stumbled upon their automotive clearance
bin last week.  A set of deep 1/2" drive metric sockets were there for
$12 (Campbell Hausfeld), so I decided to buy them.  The size coverage
was better than my SK set.  Actually they look better made than my SK
set.  I wonder about the metal.

After deciding to get the sockets, I noticed a CH impact wrench
(PL250298), which claimed to develop 450 ft lbs.  For 25 years I've
used a Ludell impact wrench I bought at Two Guys for $20.  Tests 
show that it develops about 150 ft lbs, although I'm sure the packaging
said 250.  In any event, it won't always do axle nuts, so I still 
get to use my breaker bar.  But it is very handy, and having a lower 
torque, I don't have to worry about my teenage kids breaking wheel 
lug studs when they help me.  

The impact wrench was marked to $60, so after a week or so internal
deliberation, I went back and bought one.

There are a couple of questions which come to mind...I haven't really 
seen a discussion on impact, except that some of us have such tools,
and some don't.  Does anyone know of a general FAQ dealing with impact
tools?  Are there any discussions or reviews on cheap impact tools?

There probably isn't a week that has gone by in the last 25 years or more,
where I haven't used an impact tool, air powered drill or air chisel.
I'm still interested in learning a bit more.  Any suggestions?

Val

From DrDotgain at cox.net  Sun Apr 11 20:33:14 2004
From: DrDotgain at cox.net (Bruce Brier)
Date: Sun Apr 11 20:33:15 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
In-Reply-To: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30580865E@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
Message-ID: <BC9F5C68.2E0C%DrDotgain@cox.net>

Chuck,

You had better make sure the WalMart Castrol Syntec meets the minimum
standards in your owners manual. My experience has been that the 505.00 (or
505.01 spec for PD engines) that is met by the special Castrol Syntec they
sell at VW ($7) is _not_ met by the Syntec sold at regular stores. (Do they
even have the 5w40 spec?) Some brands such as Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40
(blue bottle) meet CH-4 which is fine for my 2000 TDI. However the Mobil
Delvac-1 and the Amsoil synthetic are considered the first and second
choices (or the second and first choices) by the lube-geniuses at Fred's
TDICLUB site. Regarding the 10,000 mile interval, don't worry; be happy. But
do check that there isn't a time limit ... I don't remember if there is a
time limit because I hit 10,000 every 4 months.

Dr. Dotgain

> From: "Chuck Carnohan" <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>
> Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:46:47 -0700
> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
> 
> Castrol Syntec is what the dealership here in Idaho uses.  It is
> available at Walmart.  My maintenance schedule for a '03 Golf TDI shows
> 5K mile intervals for the first 10K miles then it drops back to once
> every 10K miles.  I was misled by the manual until my wife pointed it
> out!  It's hard for me to accept an oil change at 10K!  Kinda scary.
> 
> Chuck Carnohan
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sun Apr 11 21:33:04 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sun Apr 11 21:33:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Impact Tools
Message-ID: <66.3eedd4c3.2dab4bc2@aol.com>

  Usually at those prices it's use it, oil it occasionally and it lasts as 
long 
as you care to use it.  Sometimes they do fail and it's generally cheaper 
and easier to get a new one.  The orchard has two dead 1/2 inch drive 
impacts.  I tore the weakest one down twice and had no luck but I was 
kind of in a hurry.  Never tried the ok one.  The good one works so much 
better that nobody would use the one and maybe the other if they DID 
work.
    Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Sun Apr 11 21:36:19 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Sun Apr 11 21:36:20 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Way OT:  Amateur astronomers take a look
Message-ID: <ce.4a923fb3.2dab4c89@aol.com>

  I finally got the telescope out last night.  Celestron 114(mm) Newtonian.  
Jupiter is really purdy and is high in the south.  3 moons were very visible 
as were the major bands.  Saturn is at durn near the PERFECT angle 
for viewing!  It's medium to low in the west.  Looks a bit reddish compared 
to the stars around it.  Even good binoculars are worth getting out for a 
look.  It's seriously one of the best angles it's been at in many years.
  Enjoy!
     Loren
From cz at ozarkisp.net  Sun Apr 11 22:30:43 2004
From: cz at ozarkisp.net (Brock)
Date: Sun Apr 11 22:30:44 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] German Air Suckers
Message-ID: <002c01c42036$219bd4c0$da03db40@brock>

Guys, when you rebuild an older air cooled, what do you do to the valve seats to run unleaded?  Replace them with something harder?  Who do you purchase them from?

Thanks,

Brock
From sshourds at flash.net  Sun Apr 11 23:33:18 2004
From: sshourds at flash.net (Shalyn Shourds)
Date: Sun Apr 11 23:33:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] More on overheating and plugged rads
In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20040411012605.0066dbf4@pop3.compmore.net>
References: <1.5.4.32.20040411012605.0066dbf4@pop3.compmore.net>
Message-ID: <407A0DF0.7090804@flash.net>


>If there are any organic chemists in the list, please comment. 
>I know you can drink PG safely, and it is used in many foods, like Ice cream.
>I wonder if EG (ethylene glycol) is somewhat similar stuff? (but poison)
>
>  
>
I was just remembering how long it's been since organic, but yup, 
they're very simiar.  Propylene glycol just one more carbon in the mix.  
Ethylene Glycol itself isn't the poison problem.  What happens is we (or 
the cat or whatever) drink it and the body metabolizes it into a 
poison.  Takes the long way around, but it's the same trip to the morgue 
(at sufficient concentrations, etc.).   I guess propylene glycol goes 
down a different road.  (It's late and I can't find the pathways for it.) 

OHCH2-CH2OH   Ethylene glycol     CH3-CHOH-CH2OH  Propylene glycol

>I suspect some kind of bacteria enjoy munching on the stuff when it is at
>the right temperature, turning it to jelly.
>  
>
I can't really say what happens to the stuff in the wild.  I found a 
pathway for ethylene glycol metabolism, but it's a small molecule and 
gets smaller fast.  Didn't look like anything that would polymerize 
(I'll leave it to a real chemist if we have one in stock--I'm a 
microbiologist who's rapidly forgetting all his chemistry.  Anybody need 
an environmental microbiologist for a job with some thinking involved?) 

I do know that the lettuce in the back of America's refrigerators is 
turning to a nice chunky slime.  (The stuff in the back of Canada's 
refrigerators is frozen.)  That's bacterial cells and extracellular 
polydextrans, etc. 

Other complicating factor is that there is a whole lot of other stuff in 
the mixture.  Science generally takes place in clean glassware and 
double-distilled water.   Hard to tell what's going on after a few years 
of running around in a high-temerpature engine with sundry additives, 
dissolved metals, exhaust gasses, oils, fuels, and that water you really 
probably shouldn't have put in the radiator but the crick looked pretty 
clear. 

Long scientific version of, "Heck if I know."

-Shalyn


From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Sun Apr 11 23:41:05 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Sun Apr 11 23:41:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] German Air Suckers
In-Reply-To: <002c01c42036$219bd4c0$da03db40@brock>
References: <002c01c42036$219bd4c0$da03db40@brock>
Message-ID: <20040412034102.GA30155@cybershamanix.com>

   Any auto machine shop should have the proper valve seats, or you can just buy
them and do it yourself by putting the head in an oven and putting the new seats
on dry ice for awhile. Also, it is mandatory to use *new* exhaust valves when
doing any valve job on a aircooled vw. Don't just grind the old one, the valve
stems always stretch and it really ruins your day when one breaks off 2000 miles
after a total rebuild. 
   I have read somewhere tho that the valve seats used in 99.99% of the vw still
around today are all quite hard enough, and it's highly unlikely *any* are
around that haven't had the seats replaced more than once since leaded gas went
away, so it's probably a non-issue.


On Sun, Apr 11, 2004 at 09:30:28PM -0500, Brock wrote:
> Guys, when you rebuild an older air cooled, what do you do to the valve seats to run unleaded?  Replace them with something harder?  Who do you purchase them from?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brock
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 01:56:40 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 12 01:56:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] German Air Suckers
Message-ID: <8e.817b97c.2dab8990@aol.com>



> Guys, when you rebuild an older air cooled, what do you do to the valve 
> seats to run unleaded?  Replace them with something harder?  Who do you purchase 
> them from?
> 

  From what I've read on the subject you can do hardened seats or 
hardened valves.  No need to do both.  The idea is that hard particles 
imbed in the soft valve seats, and grind away at the valves, or vise versa.
With one being hard, just the imbeded particles don't do any real 
damage.  Both are just considered overkill, but wouldn't hurt I guess.
  Any seats sold nowadays should be of the hardened variety.  It 
sure wouldn't hurt to make sure though.
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 02:01:39 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 12 02:01:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: More on overheating and plugged rads
Message-ID: <6b.26a3733a.2dab8aba@aol.com>


> Anybody need 
> an environmental microbiologist for a job with some thinking involved?) 
> 

  Hmmm, there's a lot of fisheries and "Forest Circus" jobs in this area.  
Not sure of openings but there's usually one here and there.  You could 
at least see the stars!  :)  (closer to the beach, lots of outdoor 
recreation, 
lower population level, lots of farmers driving diesels...)
     Loren
From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Mon Apr 12 03:53:24 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Mon Apr 12 03:53:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Spalling on Outer CV Joint
Message-ID: <r8fk70lbhfh6njcmv2o2s55s425cmq9s7m@4ax.com>

Years ago, when I got my first Rabbit, I would replace any outer CV
joint that had spalling (pitting) on the surface of the groves that
the balls run in.  I did this because the manual recommended replacing
joints with this kind of wear.  Later, I noticed that spalling could
appear on a joint that showed no other problems, way before the
expected end of life.  Because of this, I have reused joints that show
this spalling.  This seems to have worked out in that I have yet to
have a joint fail or become noisy.

What is the level of wear that indicates that a joint should be
replaced?  Or, is it ok to use the joint until it becomes loose or
noisy? 

Because I have the drivelines out, and am renewing them, I am
motivated to ask what the experienced folks do.  Should I reuse that
joint with spalling on 3 out of the 6 groves which is otherwise free
of play and works smoothly?  Or should I replace it?

I am also wondering if other people have experienced outer joints
showing early spalling as I have?


Gavrik Peterson

From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 12 09:22:16 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Mon Apr 12 09:22:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
In-Reply-To: <r8fk70lbhfh6njcmv2o2s55s425cmq9s7m@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <20040412132215.38681.qmail@web80802.mail.yahoo.com>

Will the same valve cover and plastic baffle under the
cover fit BOTH a VW 1.6 L diesel and 1.8 L gas motors,
or are the covers/baffles different for these motors?

Thanks,

--Nate 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 10:48:53 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 12 10:48:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
Message-ID: <12e.3f26ee1a.2dac0650@aol.com>


> Will the same valve cover and plastic baffle under the
> cover fit BOTH a VW 1.6 L diesel and 1.8 L gas motors,
> or are the covers/baffles different for these motors?
> 

  I believe so.  I think that's where the baffles come from.  They're not 
a diesel, OEM item.  I put one on the Rabbit and it fit.  Took it off 
after I put TS rings in though.  Not enough blowby to need it then.  
Easier to time without it.  Can see the cam lobes without pulling the 
valve cover.
     Loren
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 12 10:59:09 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 12 10:59:11 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 61 ----( now is the time for all good
	men to-------)
Message-ID: <000a01c4209e$95859de0$5eed7240@svend>

Things are a looking up  ----    the expertise is gaining mass.    

environmental microbiologist      Long scientific version of, "Heck if I know."

-Shalyn

Shalyn do us all a service and write a little Microbiology 101 as it applies to fuel.
and lube.     And disposal of stuff near streams. 

Lets go smoking out a chemist   " A Christian ? "       we have at least two mechanics
one Electrical Wizard Roger Brown .     One who worked in a Rubber molding outfit.
If we all look around our own circle of connections ---that makes for one pile of knowledge
and experience.
James Hansen contributed a Metal 101   -- I did my best on a Fuel 101.  (amateur)
We need a Rubber 101  and a Paint 101   and Tires 101      and  Bolt identification
101.------   I am like a kid in Physics class --making gunpowder.

My  Texas education ----convinced me that no matter what ---- TRY IT.

Locally I can twist the arm of a couple of professionals for single questions
one Chemist and one Electrical generation Wizard (Genius).

Do we really need this ??? yes , looking in archives I catch things like  Steel in
injection lines getting brittle with age ?   that is contrary to my thinking.
So James Hansen would you clear up that one ?.

Hagar.
From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Mon Apr 12 11:00:27 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Mon Apr 12 11:00:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30573A747@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

Hi Loren- Good Monday morning to you.  Yes, you are correct, the plastic
baffle will fit 1.5 thru 1.9 engines of either fuel type.  Another
wonder of the VW engineering.

Chuck

-----Original Message-----
From: LBaird119@aol.com [mailto:LBaird119@aol.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 8:49 AM
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle



> Will the same valve cover and plastic baffle under the
> cover fit BOTH a VW 1.6 L diesel and 1.8 L gas motors,
> or are the covers/baffles different for these motors?
> 

  I believe so.  I think that's where the baffles come from.  They're
not 
a diesel, OEM item.  I put one on the Rabbit and it fit.  Took it off 
after I put TS rings in though.  Not enough blowby to need it then.  
Easier to time without it.  Can see the cam lobes without pulling the 
valve cover.
     Loren
_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 11:37:51 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 12 11:37:52 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
Message-ID: <dd.7d86612.2dac11cb@aol.com>



> Another
> wonder of the VW engineering.
> 

  That's one thing I've really appreciated about Vw/Audi/Porsche is the 
habbit they have had of using parts over several years, models or 
marques.  Did y'all know that our 020 tranny pinion bearing is a type 3 (?)
wheel bearing?  The newer cars seem to be getting more away from that 
though.  : (
     Loren
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 12 11:43:16 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 12 11:43:16 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
Message-ID: <000b01c420a4$bf465740$41ed7240@svend>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: H.Hagar 
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 8:36 AM
Subject: Power Generation --- ( electrical )


Loren  next time you get your hydro bill , kiss it and pay with a smile. 

Loren told me long time ago that Power was to be had at about  2.5 cents US.

I just talked to a fella in Denmark last night ----   he pays   40 cents Canadian
pr kilowatt hour.

They have a lot of laws for power production --- if you have a windmill  the power
company must buy your surplus.

If you fellas like parashute jumping ---stay away from Denmark.

House customers must pay a premium for Wind -Power.   Here in BC I pay close to
7 cents Canadian    pr kilowatt hour total cost.

Co-Gens  ----start your engines.

Hagar.
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Mon Apr 12 12:52:27 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Mon Apr 12 12:52:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
In-Reply-To: <dd.7d86612.2dac11cb@aol.com>
References: <dd.7d86612.2dac11cb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20040412165231.GA31704@cybershamanix.com>

  So does anyone have a source for the baffles? Other than searching junkyards?

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:36:22 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Mon Apr 12 13:36:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor
References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV26ixmwbAfq00032236@hotmail.com>

ETKA doesn't demand a 21" monitor.  But your monitor does have to be set at
a very high resolution.  Minimum 1280 x 768.  I have no problems using that
resolution on my 19" (18" viewable) monitor.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Shea" <shea@gtsdesign.com>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 3:37 PM
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor


> I seem to remember some talk, ages ago, about some software that 'fakes'
> a large monitor so that something like the vw parts cd, which demands a
> 21" monitor, can be used (albeit awkwardly) on a smaller monitor.  I
> would rather like to put my 21" monitor away forever (it's HUGE!)
>
> I can't find anything via google, wondering if y'all remember anything?
>
> Regards,
>
>         Gary
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:38:04 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Mon Apr 12 13:38:05 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor
References: <Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071433550.5782@corfu.local.net><1081370644.4074681497513@webmail.uvm.edu>
	<Pine.LNX.4.58.0404071626450.5782@corfu.local.net>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV33V9e8L25s000118bb@hotmail.com>

Try searching on www.download.com and www.tucows.com .

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Shea" <shea@gtsdesign.com>
To: "Kenneth E. Oldrid" <koldrid@uvm.edu>
Cc: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] using vw parts cd with small monitor


> Hi Ken --
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion... but...  the monitor I have available for my
> one lonely Windows box won't do 1280 x 1024... and I hate to buy a
> monitor for the Windows box, it doesn't get much use.  I used to hook up
> the 21" to it, which was a big pain since that was my main monitor on my
> unix boxes.  Now I'm retiring that one, just use a laptop these days.
> 
> I know the software is out there, I think it's free... arggh!  :)
> 
>         Gary
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 12 13:42:22 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 12 13:42:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 62 --- ( the Boys from Brazil are
	still at it )
Message-ID: <000d01c420b5$61c0a100$6ded7240@svend>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: H.Hagar 
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.c
Sent: om 
Monday, April 12, 2004 10:35 AM
Subject: Rabbit droppings # 62 --- ( the Boys from Brazil are still at it )


Is it possible that a 1984 Rabbit diesel (JK engine) could have a
crankshaft that was made in Brazil?


This is a thread in response to Gavrik Petersons       Some time ago I saw a film on DSS
about " Automobiles"  VW was featured and I could not stop watching.

What fascinated me was how a crankshaft was "forged"   and heat treated.  and ground.

I was assured by a Stealership that the Bunny made in USA had a German made engine.

But looking at the engines I got here ---some have Cylinderheads --marked  Brazil.

I just went downstairs to look at a crank and I could find nothing stating where it was made.
Gavrik    where do you see the Brazil mark ?.    By the way the crank is perfect ---the
mechanic busted block doing a head gasket   ---- very low mileage.  1980 Rabbit 4 door deluxe
1.5L NA .     
IMHO      IMHO    IMHO    A cast crank is NO GOOD  in a highly stressed engine gas or diesel.
that comes from wisdom insight and experience.
I have both kinds here  --- what is a nifty way to tell the difference James?   how many here?
maybe a hundred.   --- Why is forged so much stronger ? .    

Gavrik the Brazil one is most likely ok.   IMHO.

Hagar.
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 13:54:58 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Mon Apr 12 13:54:58 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Difference between TD and NA longblock
References: <59.9106873.2da8bc1a@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV54tmtFP2o20003201d@hotmail.com>

ETKA is the software the VW parts dept. uses to find part #'s.  Search Ebay
for a copy.  That's where I got mine.  I have version 5, it only goes up to
MY2001.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Libbybapa@wmconnect.com>
To: <slowmachine@cox.net>; <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: Difference between TD and NA longblock


> What is ETKA and where do I get a copy?
From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Mon Apr 12 13:55:06 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Mon Apr 12 13:55:06 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B30573A74C@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

I think that I bought one from VEEPARTS@aol.com  Around $15 plus
shipping as I recall.  Engines in the yard is cheaper!  By the way,
don't say "junkyards".  I have found this term to be politically
incorrect and will crumb your deal with the local automotive salvage
technician! :)

-----Original Message-----
From: Harmon Seaver [mailto:hseaver@cybershamanix.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 10:53 AM
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle


  So does anyone have a source for the baffles? Other than searching
junkyards?

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 12 14:10:24 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Mon Apr 12 14:10:25 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
References: <BC9F5C68.2E0C%DrDotgain@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV51cDNufV0500031dab@hotmail.com>

Time limit per VWoA is 12 months.  Change your oil every 12 months or 10k
miles, whichever comes first.

AFAIK, only the stealership has Castrol Syntec 5w-40.  But you'd be much
better off using AMSOIL 5w-40, Mobil Delvac-1 5w-40, or Shell Rotella 5w-40
for the 2003 and older TDI.

The 2004 and newer TDI PD must use a VW 505.01 5w-40 oil.  And the only oils
available in the US are the European Castrol 5w-40 and MOTUL 5w-40.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 98k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Brier" <DrDotgain@cox.net>
To: "Chuck Carnohan" <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>; <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01


> Chuck,
>
> You had better make sure the WalMart Castrol Syntec meets the minimum
> standards in your owners manual. My experience has been that the 505.00
(or
> 505.01 spec for PD engines) that is met by the special Castrol Syntec they
> sell at VW ($7) is _not_ met by the Syntec sold at regular stores. (Do
they
> even have the 5w40 spec?) Some brands such as Shell Rotella T Synthetic
5w40
> (blue bottle) meet CH-4 which is fine for my 2000 TDI. However the Mobil
> Delvac-1 and the Amsoil synthetic are considered the first and second
> choices (or the second and first choices) by the lube-geniuses at Fred's
> TDICLUB site. Regarding the 10,000 mile interval, don't worry; be happy.
But
> do check that there isn't a time limit ... I don't remember if there is a
> time limit because I hit 10,000 every 4 months.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 12 15:29:33 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 12 15:29:34 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.6 D Valve Cover and Plastic Baffle
Message-ID: <1a4.2265eb29.2dac4817@aol.com>


> will crumb your deal with the local automotive salvage
> technician!

  No techs at our local one.  Just escorts.  Won't let you in the yard 
anymore without one.  Claims it's for insurance reasons, that they'll 
lose it if they catch anybody back there unescorted.  I wonder how the 
U-pull-it yards manage then?  I always hassle them about having an 
escort service.  :)
     Loren
From cz at ozarkisp.net  Mon Apr 12 20:05:18 2004
From: cz at ozarkisp.net (Brock)
Date: Mon Apr 12 20:05:19 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Air Suckers
Message-ID: <005901c420ea$f0ba6500$8803db40@brock>

Thanks for the help.

Brock
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 13 02:30:24 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 13 02:30:25 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 62 --- ( the Boys from Brazil are
	still at it )
In-Reply-To: <000d01c420b5$61c0a100$6ded7240@svend>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAENLEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


> I have both kinds here  --- what is a nifty way to tell the
> difference James?   how many here?
> maybe a hundred.   --- Why is forged so much stronger ? .

Would part numbers do it?
Pretty tough to tell, both are steel, just different manufacturing methods.
Might tell by sparks from a grinding wheel- how the carbon "feathers" and
such. the carbon grain size should differ some, might translate into a cheap
easy grinder wheel  way to tell them apart.
On the unmachined surfaces, it looks a tad different- forgings are usually
smoother.
Forged is so much stronger due to steel grain size and orientation. Castings
are bigger random grains, forgings are smaller, layered grain structure-
like it was "packed" into the mold, which it was. The way the carbon is
distributed is supposed to be slightly different too.
-James
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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 13 02:37:17 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 13 02:37:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 61 ----( now is the time for all
	goodmen to-------)
In-Reply-To: <000a01c4209e$95859de0$5eed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOIENLEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


> Do we really need this ??? yes , looking in archives I catch
> things like  Steel in
> injection lines getting brittle with age ?   that is contrary to
> my thinking.
> So James Hansen would you clear up that one ?.

Repeated flexing/stressing of any steel line will make it brittle.
Especially bad to adjust pump without cracking lines. In theory, the line is
expanding and contracting a tad with every injection pulse. Might add to the
overall metal fatigue with age thing.
-J

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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 13 02:54:16 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 13 02:54:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
In-Reply-To: <000b01c420a4$bf465740$41ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAENNEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>



>
> Co-Gens  ----start your engines.
>

Except for certain areas.
Here in the land run by the Trotskyites, (Saskatchewan) the government is
the only game in town.  They have a monopoly on the utilities, that they
hold with an iron glove.  When I was younger, and possibly more naive, I
wanted desperately to set up a cogen project on my yard.  we have enough
wind to accomplish this, and a 15kw windmillmill was in my budget.
Everywhere but here, you can bank power in the grid, making the capital
payback quite attractive at 10 cents per kw, same as you pay.  Not so here-
you have to run 2 meters, one for usage, one for supply.  You buy at the
usual rate, and sell it back at the "nominal cost of generation", which they
claim is .5 cents per kw, as in one half cent/kw.  So the windmill is paid
for at a rate that it is about worn out when the capital debt is taken care
of. Perfect.  Of course when the politician speaks, the nominal cost of
generation is 6 cents per kw, so it doesn't sound like they are hosing the
residents too badly... what else is new.
So, if you want to cogen, discover your rules first, like the one on our
books that makes it illegal for me to generate power unless I'm hooked to
the grid. Hmm, that makes sense.  About as much sense as offering to sell me
"green" power from the big gov't windpower utility project (figures) for an
additional 5 bucks a month.  How that is accomplished, I really wanna know.

Hagar, you the generating man, you tell me how I can get exclusively green
electricity from the same pipe as the dirty hydrocarbon generated stuff.
Special green filters?  I really wanna know... :-)
-James
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From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Tue Apr 13 03:36:50 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Tue Apr 13 03:36:51 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bend-it...Bend-it...
Message-ID: <20920908.1081841807588.JavaMail.www@wwinf3003>

James
Can you clarify for me if it is simply repeat bending fatigue that may cause failure in the mild steel fuel lines rather than any 'aquired' brittleness; implying a hardening...else the 'belled' ends would be less prone to this grooving problem...
Which makes me think a slight case hardening of the ends of the lines might negate this 


Mark (The Miser)Uk 
"There's nothing more stimulating than driving past a bonfire and then realising it's your car that's smokin"
Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Tue Apr 13 08:21:23 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Tue Apr 13 08:21:25 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hagar Bashing
In-Reply-To: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAENNEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net> from "James
	Hansen" at Apr 13, 2004 12:50:23 AM
Message-ID: <200404131256.IAA04736@swamps.roc.ny.us>

> Hagar, you the generating man, you tell me how I can get exclusively green
> electricity from the same pipe as the dirty hydrocarbon generated stuff.
> Special green filters?  I really wanna know... :-)
> -James

i think it might depend upon the paper chromatography results.  Have any
good filter paper?
Val

From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Tue Apr 13 09:26:33 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Tue Apr 13 09:26:34 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
In-Reply-To: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAENNEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
References: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAENNEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <1081863317.2108.10.camel@gary.home.lan>

I'll answer this one.

In short, you don't.

All power produced, no matter the source, is placed on the grid.

When you sign up for "green" power, whatever amount of power that you
use, the power utility must buy this power from the green power
provider.

This system still works, because for every Kw placed into the grid from
a green source, one less Kw is generated by conventional means -> less
pollution in the long run.

Now, I want to know, how your gov't gets away with paying you "nominal
cost of generation" at .5 cents/Kw, and yet claim 6 cents on their end?

Are you actually generating surplus power with a windmill? With all of
your political boondoggles up there, I would think it would be easier to
just charge a bank of batteries for periods of low wind.

-Gary


On Tue, 2004-04-13 at 02:50, James Hansen wrote:

Snip...
> 
> Hagar, you the generating man, you tell me how I can get exclusively green
> electricity from the same pipe as the dirty hydrocarbon generated stuff.
> Special green filters?  I really wanna know... :-)
> -James


From MarkRShirley at eaton.com  Tue Apr 13 10:43:40 2004
From: MarkRShirley at eaton.com (Shirley, Mark R)
Date: Tue Apr 13 10:43:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
Message-ID: <EA46289BF91BED40B4C7B8095F4561750221291B@marmismb01.ecd.etn.com>

I think his main beef is that they won't let him generate any power
without being
connected to the grid.  That law sucks by the way.  I can't stand when
bureaucrats 
tell you what you can and can't do on your bought and paid for property
that you still
have to rent from the tax man.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: gary [mailto:gbangs@cfl.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 9:35 AM
> To: James Hansen
> Cc: VW-Diesel List
> Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical )
> 
> 
> I'll answer this one.
> 
> In short, you don't.
> 
> All power produced, no matter the source, is placed on the grid.
> 
> When you sign up for "green" power, whatever amount of power that you
> use, the power utility must buy this power from the green power
> provider.
> 
> This system still works, because for every Kw placed into the 
> grid from
> a green source, one less Kw is generated by conventional means -> less
> pollution in the long run.
> 
> Now, I want to know, how your gov't gets away with paying you "nominal
> cost of generation" at .5 cents/Kw, and yet claim 6 cents on 
> their end?
> 
> Are you actually generating surplus power with a windmill? With all of
> your political boondoggles up there, I would think it would 
> be easier to
> just charge a bank of batteries for periods of low wind.
> 
> -Gary
> 
> 
> On Tue, 2004-04-13 at 02:50, James Hansen wrote:
> 
> Snip...
> > 
> > Hagar, you the generating man, you tell me how I can get 
> exclusively green
> > electricity from the same pipe as the dirty hydrocarbon 
> generated stuff.
> > Special green filters?  I really wanna know... :-)
> > -James
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr 13 10:54:50 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr 13 10:54:51 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hagar Bashing --- ( NOW NOW Val --- Valhalla may be
	denied. )
Message-ID: <000f01c42167$23a54bc0$6aed7240@svend>

Sorry  Val  -- I missed the James part.                                                                                                                                        ----- Original Message ----- 
From: H.Hagar 
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:18 AM
Subject: Hagar Bashing --- ( NOW NOW Val --- Valhalla may be denied. )


Gentleman ---"  Start your Windmills " .

Your question was answered correctly by  Gary Orlando --- nuff said.


Brutal  big brother stuff --- but Denmark met its obligation to Kyoto.


Val  --- if you are not nice to Hagar ---he may have a talk with  Thor and Loke.


If you like roast pork --Valhalla is a great place.


Hagar.
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr 13 12:23:55 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr 13 12:23:56 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hagar Bashing  ---  (  answering James Hansen )
Message-ID: <000901c42173$92df9b60$26ed7240@svend>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: H.Hagar 
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 9:18 AM
Subject: Hagar Bashing --- ( answering James Hansen )


I really do not know the details.     But "GREEN" power is big in Denmark.

So people get together and invest in putting up a mill. A mill may be owned by
hundreds of people ( Tax incentives ).

Here is my take on how it is done (guess) ------ If green is ten % of power on grid
Then your bill will reflect that ----- 90% dirty 10% green.

Like Gary Orlando say it works.  I talked to a fella in Denmark who owned part of
a mill and he was rubbing his hands in glee.  Good investment said he.

Breakdowns and maintenance is a problem.  Siemens transformers are being
sued for breakdowns  right now.    So if you are lucky you make money ---if
not ?.

I am a "Green" person   ----- but not a fanatic.       I know this , that the talk
I hear from down south about self regulation ---- nuts    never worked anywhere
in an emergency. Corporations operate by self interest --not what is best for the globe.

Further I was deeply involved in the California Power disaster --- so I have here all the
papers  Power acts etc.       My friends in California was exposed to "Profiteering"
of the worst kind.   Blame Enron and the BC government (BC Hydro) .

I was trying my best to talk sense to BC Hydro (I asked the big Kahuna point blank if he knew
the definition of the word profiteering.)   Greedy swinery  ---no way to treat a friend who needs water or power.  I lived through the corrosive effect of the BLACK market in Europe  from 1940 to
1950.     By the way water is regulated in Denmark ----dirty and clean ---everything is metered.

My personal opinion ?   about Wind-Mills ?  ---- too many is a blight on the landscape.

Lets perfect Nukes and Hydrogen instead ---- Gary are those Nuke sub reactors safe
and cost effective , with some improvements ?    Totally clean coal power should be
possible by now ?.

In Canada  to be paid 0.5 cents for one kilowatt hour is about right.    Rolling back the
meter pays better.   LOL.

James Hansen is regulated by  Canadian Electrical code (Federal)         plus local quirks.

Hagar.
From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca  Tue Apr 13 20:39:22 2004
From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright)
Date: Tue Apr 13 20:39:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
Message-ID: <407C25A6.688.2489830@localhost>

Just returned from the first longish trip in our 'new' 85 Jetta D, via the 
Coqihalla one way, and the Fraser Canyon on the way back. The car did 
very well, managing 120km/h much of the way, and only down to 3rd 
gear once on the Coq.

However, the rear shock that was leaking oil before the trip is now totally 
ineffective, transforming the rear half of the car into a large American 
land yacht... or so it seems. Just wondering if anyone knows of a better 
source/brand for rear shocks? So far, BowWow for $55 CDN for KYB GR-
2 seems to be the best deal. I have these on my Westy, and they are ok, 
but nothing to get excited about. How are they on the A2s? (I have new 
Spax gas struts on the front of the Jetta, so only need rears).

Also, I was thinking of pulling the exhaust manifold to check the gaskets, 
since I still seem to have that ticking noise under load. Is it easiest to pull 
both manifolds together, or can they be done separately?



--
Shawn Wright
http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Tue Apr 13 22:03:51 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Tue Apr 13 22:03:53 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
Message-ID: <19d.2305c23a.2dadf605@aol.com>

  Depends on what you want for shocks.  Give www.shox.com a try.  I 
bought a set of shocks for Dad's Merceds there.  Good price.  I've run 
KYB, Boge and Cofap.  Nothing special about any of them but the 
Cofaps that I could tell.  They're sort of a Brazilian OEMish replacement.
The special part is the price.  :)
  You can pull manifolds seperatley if you remove the link piece 
between the two of them.  (NA?)  Problem is getting to the exhaust 
manifold with the intake still on the head.  Might be easier to go 
ahead and just pull it.  You'll find out once you get in there.  :)
     Loren
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr 13 22:28:34 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr 13 22:28:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump Bosch VE--a ---- ( The fuel sleeve for
	beginners ) 
Message-ID: <000d01c421c8$0ca481a0$56ed7240@svend>

We now know that the only thing that provides more or less fuel
is the control sleeve.

FAQ : Why do we need the governor ?.

Lets compare a gas Airhead say 1970  carburetor. The airflow regulates fuel
----open the butterfly and the airflow increases with rpm. So you never get more
fuel than the engine can use.

In the VW Diesel the airflow is always wide open and airflow is according to rpm.So the fuel flow
have to be regulated.  With no governor moving the sleeve --more fuel than
needed could be supplied.  VW being a delicate type diesel that would be disaster.
Say if sleeve was connected to pedal ----  it would be one Smokey the bandit ride.

So there is the answer ----we push the pedal that tells the governor to increase power--- flyballs moves
sleeve very slowly to fit rpm.   Governor then keeps moving sleeve as rpm is increased.
With no governor the idle speed would be a problem too. So the engine would either
stall or run full bore.

Now could a diesel work with a carburetor and a butterfly valve ? yes indeed. But what
we got is a hell of a lot better.

The governor and the control sleeve makes for very accurate metering of fuel.

Hagar.

PS:  If you push the pedal to the floor in neutral ? what happens.?  RPM will increase
to the maximum setting of the governor and then it tells sleeve to spill fuel.So that's all the RPM we will get at no load.
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Tue Apr 13 23:07:33 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue Apr 13 23:07:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
Message-ID: <dc.80258db.2dae04ed@wmconnect.com>

When r+r ing the manifolds be sure to clean allen heads with small 
screwdriver or paperclip and use allen socket.  Tap it in with a hammer, to seat it 
fully.  I had a couple of manifold bolts that were rounded by the previos owner.  
I used the progressively larger serrated wrench (the kind for the drive flange 
bolts) and hammered them in till I managed to get them out.  Pounding 12 
point sockets onto rounded fasteners is the only good use I have found for them. I 
almost threw them all out before I discovered that trick.
Andrew
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 13 23:51:07 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 13 23:51:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Bend-it...Bend-it...
In-Reply-To: <20920908.1081841807588.JavaMail.www@wwinf3003>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOCEOCEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Well, I would suspect that the design of the lines is such that they are
intended to last the life of the car if everything stays just like it was
intended.. clamps on, lines loosened to move pump etc...  The area of
highest stress is where the pipe gets thinner just after the flared end.
Biggest problem with the pipes is vibration in the long run- which the flat
clamps are to address. I've seen where the clamps get loose, followed by
line fracture soon after.  This was on bigger motors however... the short
little VW lines are pretty good as fat as not vibrating goes.

I can't see the lines being hardened. Too expensive on a cheap part, and
surface hardness doesn't always translate into a stronger part either. It
can make it fail sooner.   I would think they would last the longest if
properly annealed so they would be soft, and more elastic.

That said, I have never had a VW line fail... have lost a couple on other
farm stuff mostly from vibration and some little invisible insignificant
trinket rubbing against the line until it is worn through.


> James
> Can you clarify for me if it is simply repeat bending fatigue
> that may cause failure in the mild steel fuel lines rather than
> any 'aquired' brittleness; implying a hardening...else the
> 'belled' ends would be less prone to this grooving problem...
> Which makes me think a slight case hardening of the ends of the
> lines might negate this
>

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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr 14 01:07:05 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr 14 01:07:05 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hagar Bashing  ---  (  answering James Hansen )
In-Reply-To: <000901c42173$92df9b60$26ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOIEPAEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


> So people get together and invest in putting up a mill. A mill
> may be owned by
> hundreds of people ( Tax incentives ).


So this model makes sense.  Very little about green power here makes any
sense, other than it being a way to milk the idealistic.  It annoys me
because there is so much opportunity to do this the right way, they just
seem to be discovering (exploiting) all the wrong ways at once.





> Further I was deeply involved in the California Power disaster
> --- so I have here all the
> papers  Power acts etc.


So now we know who to blame :-)


>
> Lets perfect Nukes and Hydrogen instead

Absolutely.  Build the nukes on the northern shield, right next to the mine
and smelter. Just a closed loop in the same area, far from population, and
as safe as it can ever get.  Build a huge line over to Fort Mac, so they can
use electricity for a hydrogen cracking source rather than gulping up
enormous quantities of natural gas as a hydrogen source for cracking the
oilsands crude. It makes nothing but sense, but then again, that should
ensure that it never gets built...




> James Hansen is regulated by  Canadian Electrical code (Federal)
>        plus local quirks.


Quirks. hmmm....That's a polite name for them. I've been known to use a lot
of other, much less polite ones. heh.
-James





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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr 14 01:16:09 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr 14 01:16:10 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
In-Reply-To: <1081863317.2108.10.camel@gary.home.lan>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOKEPAEEAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>



>
> I'll answer this one.
>
> In short, you don't.
>
> All power produced, no matter the source, is placed on the grid.
>
> When you sign up for "green" power, whatever amount of power that you
> use, the power utility must buy this power from the green power
> provider.


Which in this case is themselves.


>
> This system still works, because for every Kw placed into the grid from
> a green source, one less Kw is generated by conventional means -> less
> pollution in the long run.

 Yeah, they began collecting the revenue for green energy long before the
windmill field was in full operation too.  There must be a fourth
dimensional line filter as well...


>
> Now, I want to know, how your gov't gets away with paying you "nominal
> cost of generation" at .5 cents/Kw, and yet claim 6 cents on their end?


They don't get challenged on it other than by little insignificant folks
like myself that pay attention.
6 cents was touted by the head of Sask Power on a question and answer period
as their nom cost.
.5 was what I was told I would be paid, and what the nom cost is.
the 6 cent figure is probably delivered to your door cost.  I won't get into
why I pay a higher rate to subsidize my neighbor's rates because he decided
to go with electric heat, while I paid 15K to get natural gas into the
yard...

 I can make a mighty big noise when desired, but it still amounts to the
squeek of a small insectoid in the ointment in the big bureaucratic machine.
The get away with it because they are the revenue generating arm of the
socialist machine that is our provincial government.  The goal is to
generate revenue, electricity is secondary. But that's enough about
politics...

It is cheaper to charge batteries. However, the power mavens have rules
about that.  When I need to fire up a 7 hp grainery aeration fan, I need to
make big juice. It was still technically illegal to generate power without
being hooked to the grid last I knew. It was an old law that dates back to
the provincial trotskyite heyday of the 70's where the government or
"public" utilities were etched into stone, and law as the provincial revenue
source. Oh yeah, enough politics... sorry.

Telephone would be a good example- not until the feds mandated that there
should be competition did the opportunity to pay anything less than 70 cents
per minute for landline long distance to the sharp fanged "public" tax er...
utility.

  If it were feasible for me to get off the grid I would be there in spades.
Immediately.  No hesitation whatsoever, BUT between wide fluctuations in
demand on my end, and the government men, it isn't as easy as just throwing
the switch in Saskatchewan.
-James

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From LBaird119 at aol.com  Wed Apr 14 03:02:19 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Wed Apr 14 03:02:20 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
Message-ID: <1cf.1e89697d.2dae3bf4@aol.com>

Pounding 12 
point sockets onto rounded fasteners is the only good use I have found for 
them.

  Don't forget Raceware head studs and those horrendously expensive 
turbo to manifold bolts.  They're both 12 pt.  ;-)  I've just never had 
enough trouble with 12pt sockets to warrant replacing all of them with 
6 pt.  I have 6pts for when I need them and know when to stop before 
I'm screwed. :)  Guess that's from experience and guess how I got 
the experience!  ;-D
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Wed Apr 14 03:15:39 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Wed Apr 14 03:15:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hagar Bashing  ---  (  answering James Hansen )
Message-ID: <75.26e2da0b.2dae3f12@aol.com>

So this model makes sense.  Very little about green power here makes any
sense, other than it being a way to milk the idealistic.  It annoys me
because there is so much opportunity to do this the right way, they just
seem to be discovering (exploiting) all the wrong ways at once.

  Dad's been kicking around the idea of going off grid when he builds a 
house at the beach (instead of the shack that's there now.)  Monetarily 
it about equals out to paying for power.  He just hates the idea of paying 
$25/month just for someone to read a meter with no or little change. 
A dehumidifier is all that's ever left on.   He'd rather just pay one lump 
and be done with it, no monthly bill.  They're very agreeable about 
buyback on power.  They're completely ignorant but want to do it 
so "whatever your PUD is doing should work for us."  Pretty much 
bring some minimal paperwork and tell them it's done to code, they'll 
put in the bi-way meter and that's that.  If it weren't for the meter charge 
he'd hook up just to sell back the excess.  Good place for a small wind 
charger.  Problem is it'd take a lot of power at todays prices, just to 
pay the meter charge.  We could bootleg it back through our neighbor 
though.  Wouldn't get anything but it'd cut her power bill and she's a 
great neighbor. 
  Someone here did/does write for homepower magazine don't they?  
They had a good article on "Guerilla" power generation.  Not doing it 
by the book because the book's such a hassle.

  In reference to coal power.  I remember our physics teacher told us 
there's more radiation released from a coal plant than a nuclear one. 
Due to the isotopes of carbon.  We almost had a bunch of nuke plants 
here but they defaulted on all but 1 1/2 of them due to cost overruns.  
Most were over 80% completed too.  Really stupid!  Most of the cost 
was done with.  Washington and Oregon would've been in a position to 
power nearly half of the country at reasonable rates.
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Wed Apr 14 03:27:35 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Wed Apr 14 03:27:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
Message-ID: <1e3.1d7fc193.2dae41dd@aol.com>

  In this county anyway, the "green power" works this way.  The local PUD
will assist (I guess) in some way/s setting up solar or wind generation.  
They have a big program of free or nearly free (to the site) setup of solar 
panels but it's only on public or government sites/buildings.  :(  Our 
landlord 
has several thousand feet of south facing, just about correctly pitched roof 
but...  : P
  All the green power goes into the grid either direct, as supplemental or 
overflow.  The supplemental wouldn't be metered as it happens all on your 
side of the meter.  All the power is added up and at the year's end the 
total and your % of contribution to the total is all tallied up.
  On the other end, consumers can pay a premium for "green electricity."
It really amounts to a donation to encourage wind and solar power 
generation.  (I'd really like to do a small hydro in the irrigation main 
line to the orchard but that's work and money, and seasonal.)  Then 
all the money that was "donated" is added up.  That bonus money is 
then divided up according to your percentage and paid out to the 
producers as a bonus.  This is in addition to there per KWH they 
received already.  Great deal if you get in early and are a good % of 
the total!
  I checked on stuff a couple years ago and the biggest problem was 
that the equipment they "had a line" on, was higher priced than if I 
shopped around a little.  I guess they've better deals now.  Haven't 
had incentive to check back.
     Loren
From natewall1 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 14 09:33:16 2004
From: natewall1 at yahoo.com (Nate Wall)
Date: Wed Apr 14 09:33:17 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <407C25A6.688.2489830@localhost>
Message-ID: <20040414133313.84961.qmail@web80804.mail.yahoo.com>


--- Shawn Wright <swright@zuiko.sls.bc.ca> wrote:
Just see if you can snug the bolts down. If they are
loose, the leak will most likely disappear if the
bolts are tightened.

--Nate
> 
> Also, I was thinking of pulling the exhaust manifold
> to check the gaskets, 
> since I still seem to have that ticking noise under
> load. Is it easiest to pull 
> both manifolds together, or can they be done
> separately?
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
> ~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail
> alternative~
> "Friends don't let friends use Outlook"
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel



	
		
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Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca  Wed Apr 14 09:47:34 2004
From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright)
Date: Wed Apr 14 09:47:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <20040414133313.84961.qmail@web80804.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <407C25A6.688.2489830@localhost>
Message-ID: <407CDE54.1486.51A087B@localhost>

I've tried tightening a few times now - the first time they were definitely 
loose - I was able to tighten several a half turn or more, and the noise did 
go away for a day or two (at least my wife says, I didn't drive it). Since 
then, they've been tight each time, yet the noise is back. I'm concerned 
that a piece of the gasket may have blown out so it no longer seals, not 
sure how how likely this is though. I mostly want to find the noise and fix it 
so I know it's not something more serious like valves...

On 14 Apr 2004 at 6:33, Nate Wall <natewall1@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> --- Shawn Wright <swright@zuiko.sls.bc.ca> wrote:
> Just see if you can snug the bolts down. If they are
> loose, the leak will most likely disappear if the
> bolts are tightened.
> 
> --Nate
> > 
> > Also, I was thinking of pulling the exhaust manifold
> > to check the gaskets, 
> > since I still seem to have that ticking noise under
> > load. Is it easiest to pull 
> > both manifolds together, or can they be done
> > separately?
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > Shawn Wright
> > http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
> > ~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail
> > alternative~
> > "Friends don't let friends use Outlook"
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> 
> 
> 	
> 		
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
> 

--
Shawn Wright
http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"

From rjs at bnl.gov  Wed Apr 14 10:07:48 2004
From: rjs at bnl.gov (Ron Schroeder)
Date: Wed Apr 14 10:07:49 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump Bosch VE
References: <20040414134815.285998CDBE@audifans.com>
Message-ID: <010601c42229$d67df900$da6cc782@cad.bnl.gov>


----- Original Message ----- > Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 19:27:34 -0700
> From: "H.Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump Bosch VE--a ---- ( The fuel sleeve
> for beginners )

<snip>
> Now could a diesel work with a carburetor and a butterfly valve ? yes
indeed. But what
> we got is a hell of a lot better.
<snip>
> Hagar.

Hi,

As an aside, an injector pump AND a carb (or TBI) is better than an injector
pump alone.  When experimenting with propane fumigation (and WVO) about 20
years ago, I found that almost any combustible that was put in the airflow
of a diesel improved combustion.  Propane worked best but I had success with
alcohol, gasoline and even diesel fuel added to the intake with a carb with
the butterfly wide open.  10% diesel fuel thru the carb and 90% thru the
injectors got about 5% better fuel economy than all of the fuel thru the
injectors.

Ron Schroeder WD8CDH
Brookhaven National Lab
Building 911A
Upton NY 11973
631 344-4561
From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 14 10:27:12 2004
From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich)
Date: Wed Apr 14 10:27:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: rear shocks and manifolds
Message-ID: <Sea2-F69RD3g6sAleTh000410c3@hotmail.com>

Hi Shawn
I used KYB's for a couple years on my Jetta's, just got tired of the ride 
with them (atleast here in the eastern of Canada), they freeze solid when 
the temps drop below -20, as in no suspension your head bobs up and down 
uncontrollable! I had two cars with the same syndrome, I never bought them 
again. I also found that they didn't last very long (2 years and shot), some 
retailers offer lifetime warranty others don't (claim it is available to US 
residents only). The price is fair for a gas shock, Boge ones are available 
for slightly more and seem to work better, try the turbo gas (pro gas is 
very stiff), the TG costs $60 (as is what the autoparts place pays), oil 
shocks start at $30 for Cofab or Flennor (cheapest) or $40 for Boge 
automatic. You may want to try an Altrom retailer, I think they offer good 
prices on shocks with all types available (altrom.com)
When I changed the manifold gaskets I did them on the car, I removed the 
intake first then exhaust, left the downpipe connected (one less headache). 
Be sure to tap in your allen sockets and make sure each bolt head is clean 
or you will never finish the job without removing the head. It took me a 
couple hours total, not bad but my arms and wrists very pretty sore from all 
the twisting and such, bad place to work! Look carefully into the cyl head 
ports, I had one exhaust port pulgged with soot (oil burning). Be sure to 
use new nuts on the exhaust manifold, brass ones are nice but copper is 
cheaper.
Greg

>>Just returned from the first longish trip in our 'new' 85 Jetta D, via the
>Coqihalla one way, and the Fraser Canyon on the way back. The car did
>very well, managing 120km/h much of the way, and only down to 3rd
>gear once on the Coq.
>
>However, the rear shock that was leaking oil before the trip is now totally
>ineffective, transforming the rear half of the car into a large American
>land yacht... or so it seems. Just wondering if anyone knows of a better
>source/brand for rear shocks? So far, BowWow for $55 CDN for KYB GR-
>2 seems to be the best deal. I have these on my Westy, and they are ok,
>but nothing to get excited about. How are they on the A2s? (I have new
>Spax gas struts on the front of the Jetta, so only need rears).
>
>Also, I was thinking of pulling the exhaust manifold to check the gaskets,
>since I still seem to have that ticking noise under load. Is it easiest to 
>pull
>both manifolds together, or can they be done separately?
>
>
>
>--
>Shawn Wright
>http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
>~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
>"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 10
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 22:03:49 EDT
>From: LBaird119@aol.com
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] A2 shock recommendations?
>To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <19d.2305c23a.2dadf605@aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>   Depends on what you want for shocks.  Give www.shox.com a try.  I
>bought a set of shocks for Dad's Merceds there.  Good price.  I've run
>KYB, Boge and Cofap.  Nothing special about any of them but the
>Cofaps that I could tell.  They're sort of a Brazilian OEMish replacement.
>The special part is the price.  :)
>   You can pull manifolds seperatley if you remove the link piece
>between the two of them.  (NA?)  Problem is getting to the exhaust
>manifold with the intake still on the head.  Might be easier to go
>ahead and just pull it.  You'll find out once you get in there.  :)
>      Loren
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Vwdiesel mailing list
>Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
>End of Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 22
>***************************************

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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Wed Apr 14 16:41:02 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Wed Apr 14 16:41:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 63 --  ( Hagar a Power Gorilla.?)
Message-ID: <000201c4225f$365082a0$3eed7240@svend>

Yes that's me   ----  Funny thing I started as a destroyer of power systems in
1945.

Now I bring cheap Power (and lights) to farmers ---- same way  . "Illegal".

My illegal power system designs has kept a farming family happy for
many years.    



Loren I see your dad is bitten by the "minimum" charge. If the woman is living there all year.
Work out a deal ---Disconnect your service. Get a surplus meter and buy power from her.
Hell 10 cents pr kilowatt hour may be a win win situation.  My designs are ungrounded
systems for safety.    Think shaver outlet at service stations ,  but bigger.

Big power-systems like Mills are sometimes ungrounded so if you ground one phase
nothing happens. No blown fuses.

Canadian Electrical code was written by a bunch of lawyers --who never pulled a wire
made of copper.

No wonder Electrical inspectors are hated.

Hagar.

PS:  There is no rule in Canada against producing power.----you just can't sell it.
I did not write for magazine.
From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Wed Apr 14 16:43:29 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Wed Apr 14 16:43:30 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Additional fuel via carb(was Ron's VE)
Message-ID: <8401072.1081975407240.JavaMail.www@wwinf3004>

Ron did you ever experiment with water vapour? 
I have this 'bee in my bonnet'... 
What if the combustion chamber was not water cooled but insulated... 
Fuel burning/ expanding would soon cause melt down...

BUT what if water vapour was injected? 
Heat would be absorbed by the expansion of the water and so maintaining safe operating temp???
 But also adding to work done....and reducing some of the heat losses in coolant and exhaust... 
Build this one 'H'.. I am too busy working on the house to carry this one out for a while... 



Mark (The Miser)Uk 
"There's nothing more stimulating than driving past a bonfire and then realising it's your car that's smokin"
Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Wed Apr 14 20:54:25 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Wed Apr 14 20:54:25 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
In-Reply-To: <200404141444.KAA13288@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <200404141444.KAA13288@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <1081990998.7408.38.camel@gary.home.lan>

Hmmm,

Are we talking about a lightly loaded windmill with a strong breeze?

Windmills attempt to maintain 60hz (well, here in the US) by either
changing the generator field strength, and/or blade angle. The smaller
gensets will only adjust the field, the monstrous ones will do both.

Your 63hz windmill doesn't have enough load to maintain frequency.
But that doesn't mean that it cannot be connected though.

Synchronize it with and connect to the grid. Boom! Rock steady 60 hz.
Why, because the generating capacity of the grid dictates the frequency.
Your puny (no disrespect intended) windmill does not have enough umph to
change system frequency.

Your genset controller, either manually or automatically, will attempt
to adjust its voltage and frequency. Ideally, as a small generator, you
want the 'set' voltage slightly higher than grid voltage. Reason is that
as a generator, you want amps to flow out, not in. This also reduces
"recirculating" current... VA power which does nothing, compared to
Watts, real power.

What really makes your windmill make power is the freq setting. By
setting the 'set' freq higher than grid, though freq will stay steady at
60hz, the phase angle of your generated power will lead the grid phase
angle. This makes power flow out. On the other hand, you can make your
windmill a big "fan" by setting the set freq lower than grid.

Note, when doing all of this, you need to know the Kw and amp limits of
your machine and adjust your settings accordingly.

You can run your house on DC! Of course! Why not?

You would of course need to replace ALL of your appliances with a DC
powered equivalent. Replace ALL of your outlets with the appropriate DC
version. In this day and age, I would suspect that it would be cost
prohibitive to do.  

-Gary



On Wed, 2004-04-14 at 10:44, Val Christian wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> So what happens if you generate power at 63 Hz, so that it can't
> be put on the grid.  How's about running your house on DC?


From wade at carsand.com  Wed Apr 14 21:22:47 2004
From: wade at carsand.com (Wade Yorke)
Date: Wed Apr 14 21:22:49 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 1.9TD rpm at idle
Message-ID: <33125E4A-8E7A-11D8-8DAA-00039367F1C4@carsand.com>

Hi;
Is the the idle speed of the VW diesels the same engine to engine.  I 
am using a alternator/tach interface to allow the stock Vanagon gas 
tach to be used with the signal from the W terminal of the diesel 
alternator.  To do the calibration I either need to  find a VW dealer 
with a rpm gauge for a diesel (and likely pay an hour's shop time) or 
if the diesel idle is consistently within a 500 rpm range that may be 
close enough for me.

Thanks
Wade Yorke
84' Westy 1.9TD

From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Wed Apr 14 23:15:32 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Wed Apr 14 23:15:33 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  ) (fwd)
Message-ID: <200404150354.XAA17317@swamps.roc.ny.us>

Gary,

I was reacting to the understood assertion that one couldn't generate power 
for their own use.  Hence the slightly non-standard, unable to connect 
to the grid parameters.

That's all.

Val

ps: I was only kidding on the DC stuff, although it is somewhat common to
have 12 VDC off grid household systems.  

pps: Certain appliances, refrigerator compressors are a good example, are
very sensitive to actual frequency.


Forwarded message:
> Hmmm,
> 
> Are we talking about a lightly loaded windmill with a strong breeze?
> 
> Windmills attempt to maintain 60hz (well, here in the US) by either
> changing the generator field strength, and/or blade angle. The smaller
> gensets will only adjust the field, the monstrous ones will do both.
> 
> Your 63hz windmill doesn't have enough load to maintain frequency.
> But that doesn't mean that it cannot be connected though.
> 
> Synchronize it with and connect to the grid. Boom! Rock steady 60 hz.
> Why, because the generating capacity of the grid dictates the frequency.
> Your puny (no disrespect intended) windmill does not have enough umph to
> change system frequency.
> 
> Your genset controller, either manually or automatically, will attempt
> to adjust its voltage and frequency. Ideally, as a small generator, you
> want the 'set' voltage slightly higher than grid voltage. Reason is that
> as a generator, you want amps to flow out, not in. This also reduces
> "recirculating" current... VA power which does nothing, compared to
> Watts, real power.
> 
> What really makes your windmill make power is the freq setting. By
> setting the 'set' freq higher than grid, though freq will stay steady at
> 60hz, the phase angle of your generated power will lead the grid phase
> angle. This makes power flow out. On the other hand, you can make your
> windmill a big "fan" by setting the set freq lower than grid.
> 
> Note, when doing all of this, you need to know the Kw and amp limits of
> your machine and adjust your settings accordingly.
> 
> You can run your house on DC! Of course! Why not?
> 
> You would of course need to replace ALL of your appliances with a DC
> powered equivalent. Replace ALL of your outlets with the appropriate DC
> version. In this day and age, I would suspect that it would be cost
> prohibitive to do.  
> 
> -Gary
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, 2004-04-14 at 10:44, Val Christian wrote:
> > Gary,
> > 
> > So what happens if you generate power at 63 Hz, so that it can't
> > be put on the grid.  How's about running your house on DC?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 

From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Thu Apr 15 01:07:34 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Thu Apr 15 01:07:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  ) (fwd)
In-Reply-To: <200404150354.XAA17317@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <200404150354.XAA17317@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <20040415050735.GC5872@cybershamanix.com>

On Wed, Apr 14, 2004 at 11:54:09PM -0400, Val Christian wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> I was reacting to the understood assertion that one couldn't generate power 
> for their own use.  Hence the slightly non-standard, unable to connect 
> to the grid parameters.
> 

    That's what the guerilla renewable movement is all about -- in those areas
that don't have netmetering laws, people just hook it up to the grid anyway,
without telling the utility and run their meters backwards. Just make sure to
not let it turn it back so far it's showing a negative use each month. Screw
'em. 


> That's all.
> 
> Val
> 
> ps: I was only kidding on the DC stuff, although it is somewhat common to
> have 12 VDC off grid household systems.  
> 

   Or 24vdc (a lot of military surplus stuff for that, plus it's best for
inverters) or 32vdc (a lot of boat stuff runs on that), or, for that matter,
just run your whole house on 120vdc -- the light bulbs will all be fine, as will
the wiring, and your appliances that need AC can have inverters. There used to
be a whole lot of normal stuff that was AC/DC, worked on either. 


-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Thu Apr 15 02:42:45 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Thu Apr 15 02:42:46 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Additional fuel via carb(was Ron's VE)
Message-ID: <a3.56afabe8.2daf88db@aol.com>

BUT what if water vapour was injected? 
Heat would be absorbed by the expansion of the water and so maintaining safe 
operating temp???

  I went to a seminar/got a book several years ago about getting better 
mileage.  One of the "simple" things was "water injection."  Instead of 
the old "bubbling bottle" or a spray injection his preference was actually 
for steam injection.  Or, what most call steam.  The idea was to use a 
washer pump and nozzle to spray under a shield over the exhaust then 
suck the vapor in the intake.  It's not quite full steam at that point so 
the added expansion helps control hot spots and adds extra power.  
Something about steam expanding more than the loss in volumt due 
to the heat it takes to make it or something along that thought.  
     Loren
From MarkRShirley at eaton.com  Thu Apr 15 08:56:35 2004
From: MarkRShirley at eaton.com (Shirley, Mark R)
Date: Thu Apr 15 08:56:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  )
Message-ID: <EA46289BF91BED40B4C7B8095F45617502212938@marmismb01.ecd.etn.com>

Rather than replacing all your appliances with DC appliances, it would
likely make a lot more sense to just install a big inverter on your
battery bank, so that when you have to replace a DC appliance, you don't
have to wait 3 weeks for one to be mailed to you... 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: gary [mailto:gbangs@cfl.rr.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 9:03 PM
> To: VWDiesel
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical )
> 
> 
> Hmmm,
> 
> Are we talking about a lightly loaded windmill with a strong breeze?
> 
> Windmills attempt to maintain 60hz (well, here in the US) by either
> changing the generator field strength, and/or blade angle. The smaller
> gensets will only adjust the field, the monstrous ones will do both.
> 
> Your 63hz windmill doesn't have enough load to maintain frequency.
> But that doesn't mean that it cannot be connected though.
> 
> Synchronize it with and connect to the grid. Boom! Rock steady 60 hz.
> Why, because the generating capacity of the grid dictates the 
> frequency.
> Your puny (no disrespect intended) windmill does not have 
> enough umph to
> change system frequency.
> 
> Your genset controller, either manually or automatically, will attempt
> to adjust its voltage and frequency. Ideally, as a small 
> generator, you
> want the 'set' voltage slightly higher than grid voltage. 
> Reason is that
> as a generator, you want amps to flow out, not in. This also reduces
> "recirculating" current... VA power which does nothing, compared to
> Watts, real power.
> 
> What really makes your windmill make power is the freq setting. By
> setting the 'set' freq higher than grid, though freq will 
> stay steady at
> 60hz, the phase angle of your generated power will lead the grid phase
> angle. This makes power flow out. On the other hand, you can make your
> windmill a big "fan" by setting the set freq lower than grid.
> 
> Note, when doing all of this, you need to know the Kw and amp 
> limits of
> your machine and adjust your settings accordingly.
> 
> You can run your house on DC! Of course! Why not?
> 
> You would of course need to replace ALL of your appliances with a DC
> powered equivalent. Replace ALL of your outlets with the 
> appropriate DC
> version. In this day and age, I would suspect that it would be cost
> prohibitive to do.  
> 
> -Gary
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, 2004-04-14 at 10:44, Val Christian wrote:
> > Gary,
> > 
> > So what happens if you generate power at 63 Hz, so that it can't
> > be put on the grid.  How's about running your house on DC?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
From dieseltdi at earthlink.net  Thu Apr 15 09:10:42 2004
From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen)
Date: Thu Apr 15 09:10:46 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] First impressions on the Passat TDI
Message-ID: <49FB49FA-8EDE-11D8-AD8A-000A959B975C@earthlink.net>

Well, after about a 3 week holdup at the port, we pickup up the new 
Passat on Tuesday night.  Although I haven't gotten to drive it much 
(technically the wife's car) here are my impressions so far:
Fit and Finish - very good, but it should be for the price I paid for 
the car ($27000).  the car has leather, wood inlay, heated seats, full 
function MFA display on the dash and all the other goodies.
Engine - wow, what can I say, smooth, powerful and the most quiet TDI 
engine that I have ever heard.  Would like to hear from folks with the 
1.9 PD engine to see if it is the lack of an injection pump that makes 
it so quiet.
Tiptronic transmission - this was the biggest worry for me as it has 
been way back to the minivan days (we traded our last minivan in for a 
car in 94) since we have had an automatic, although it will take 
getting used to, I think that I will be able to adapt.  It has multiple 
programs that adapt to the driver.  So my punch and go driving style 
can be accommodated as well as my wife's slow and go driving style.
Deal - well dealer would not come off of list so I negotiated window 
tint, a Brookstone roadside emergency kit and a few other extras.  I 
got a $500 VW loyalty payment and 4.75% interest from VW credit, 1.15% 
less than my credit union offered.

We intend to take a 600 mile trip this weekend to break the car in 
well.  I will update every one on mileage ect.  I have pics of the car 
on my website and as soon as I can, I intend to remove all of the 
plastic covers on the upper engine and take a picture of the engine 
also.  BTW, while researching this 2.0L engine on the German website, I 
discovered that it specifically says that the engine should not use PME 
(processed methyl esters - biodiesel).  I didn't find any other engine 
for the Passat listed with this absolute restriction.  This of course 
is strange since VW Germany has always allowed the use of biodiesel so 
this must be something specific to the PD engines.  Perhaps biodiesel 
is too thick (viscosity) for the unit injectors?  Thoughts?
Hayden

Visit my website at  www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi
Proud owner of:
2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 16 valve, 136 HP, 247 lb/ft of torque, Blue 
Graphite, Anthracite leather interior, ABS, ESP.
1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane 
dual fuel system, 109K+ miles, and running biodiesel)
1981 Rabbit Pickup ( with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine), Will burn 
biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system.
One, yet to be finished, Caddy trailer (the back end of the truck that 
gave its life to my just completed Rabbit Pickup).
And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle (11 Beetles total), to 
Vans (5), Rabbits (3), Karmen Ghia (1), Jettas (5), Passat (2), Dasher 
(1), New Beetle (1), and Rabbit Pickups (3) most now gone but not 
forgotten.

From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 14:17:19 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Thu Apr 15 14:17:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Re: [Audi-VW-Diesels] First impressions on the Passat TDI
In-Reply-To: <49FB49FA-8EDE-11D8-AD8A-000A959B975C@earthlink.net>
References: <49FB49FA-8EDE-11D8-AD8A-000A959B975C@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1082053577.12037.0.camel@gary.home.lan>

Drooling....

-Gary


On Thu, 2004-04-15 at 09:10, Hayden Chasteen wrote:
> Well, after about a 3 week holdup at the port, we pickup up the new 
> Passat on Tuesday night.  Although I haven't gotten to drive it much 
> (technically the wife's car) here are my impressions so far:
> Fit and Finish - very good, but it should be for the price I paid for 
> the car ($27000).  the car has leather, wood inlay, heated seats, full 
> function MFA display on the dash and all the other goodies.
> Engine - wow, what can I say, smooth, powerful and the most quiet TDI 
> engine that I have ever heard.  Would like to hear from folks with the 
> 1.9 PD engine to see if it is the lack of an injection pump that makes 
> it so quiet.
> Tiptronic transmission - this was the biggest worry for me as it has 
> been way back to the minivan days (we traded our last minivan in for a 
> car in 94) since we have had an automatic, although it will take 
> getting used to, I think that I will be able to adapt.  It has multiple 
> programs that adapt to the driver.  So my punch and go driving style 
> can be accommodated as well as my wife's slow and go driving style.
> Deal - well dealer would not come off of list so I negotiated window 
> tint, a Brookstone roadside emergency kit and a few other extras.  I 
> got a $500 VW loyalty payment and 4.75% interest from VW credit, 1.15% 
> less than my credit union offered.
> 
> We intend to take a 600 mile trip this weekend to break the car in 
> well.  I will update every one on mileage ect.  I have pics of the car 
> on my website and as soon as I can, I intend to remove all of the 
> plastic covers on the upper engine and take a picture of the engine 
> also.  BTW, while researching this 2.0L engine on the German website, I 
> discovered that it specifically says that the engine should not use PME 
> (processed methyl esters - biodiesel).  I didn't find any other engine 
> for the Passat listed with this absolute restriction.  This of course 
> is strange since VW Germany has always allowed the use of biodiesel so 
> this must be something specific to the PD engines.  Perhaps biodiesel 
> is too thick (viscosity) for the unit injectors?  Thoughts?
> Hayden
> 
> Visit my website at  www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi
> Proud owner of:
> 2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 16 valve, 136 HP, 247 lb/ft of torque, Blue 
> Graphite, Anthracite leather interior, ABS, ESP.
> 1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane 
> dual fuel system, 109K+ miles, and running biodiesel)
> 1981 Rabbit Pickup ( with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine), Will burn 
> biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system.
> One, yet to be finished, Caddy trailer (the back end of the truck that 
> gave its life to my just completed Rabbit Pickup).
> And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle (11 Beetles total), to 
> Vans (5), Rabbits (3), Karmen Ghia (1), Jettas (5), Passat (2), Dasher 
> (1), New Beetle (1), and Rabbit Pickups (3) most now gone but not 
> forgotten.
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~-->
> Yahoo! Autos. Everything you need to know about buying 
> or selling a car.  FREE Quotes, 360 Tours, Research,
> Blue Book, Compare Vehicles, Buy Used
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/kEZsdA/bwnGAA/YiGOAA/gkiolB/TM
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Audi-VW-Diesels/
> 
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>      Audi-VW-Diesels-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> 
> <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
>      http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>  
> 

From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Thu Apr 15 14:24:26 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Thu Apr 15 14:24:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  ) (fwd)
In-Reply-To: <200404150354.XAA17317@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <200404150354.XAA17317@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <1082054003.12037.4.camel@gary.home.lan>

It kills me when there are laws that dictate what I can and can't do on
my own property. I know where I live there are many, but at least there
is some  rational behind most of them. 

But, no co-gen? Do they have a justification for this?

-Gary

On Wed, 2004-04-14 at 23:54, Val Christian wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> I was reacting to the understood assertion that one couldn't generate power 
> for their own use.  Hence the slightly non-standard, unable to connect 
> to the grid parameters.
> 
> That's all.
> 
> Val
> 
> ps: I was only kidding on the DC stuff, although it is somewhat common to
> have 12 VDC off grid household systems.  
> 
> pps: Certain appliances, refrigerator compressors are a good example, are
> very sensitive to actual frequency.
> 


From h_hagar at prcn.org  Thu Apr 15 14:49:28 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Thu Apr 15 14:49:29 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 64 --- ( Watered down diesel ).
Message-ID: <000901c4231a$3f39f020$20ed7240@svend>

This mornings crop of things to discus ? ----  wow.  . This geezer gets up 0500
and today the first thing on the telly was " Edison the Man "  ---the CNN news just
had to wait.  ----- My little "Menlo" is right below my feet.

Yes James Hansen  I got my eyes peeled for a film about Tesla.

Water injection as it is used on Gas and Diesels ---is a proven way to get more power
from Engines and or Fuel.   Many Aircraft engines have water injection for more power.
And many Car engines have injection for better mileage.

I had a Texas  Ford V8 flathead  1942  with waterbath intake filter. Worked fine.

This year I am going to experiment on a 1.5L NA.       Water ingestion is of most
interest to the  Power Generator gang.   Use distilled water.

There you go Mark Shepherd ----I am doing it.

Remember fellas your Menlo can be the kitchen the loft the cellar  anywhere really.The "IDEA"
is what is important. 

Watching the Hollywood version of Edison "Synchronizing" two DC generators was painful.
That was a LOT of commutation flashover.

And  Val Christian you were right in the first place ---your first VW engine makes for one hell of a "NIFTY" standby set.   Heat and El. On those frosty winter days when the grid lets you down.
And simple to make.
The "airhead" is better but then we are talking about what to do with that old VW diesel.

Something about steam expanding more than the loss in volumt due 
to the heat it takes to make it or something along that thought.  
     Loren

 Very important thought --- too much water is counter productive.

Hagar.
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Thu Apr 15 14:50:17 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Thu Apr 15 14:50:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Dieselfuel 101 part 13 -- ( Microbes ---them little
	grabbers )
Message-ID: <000f01c4231a$5d476b60$20ed7240@svend>

I have to call on "OUR"  resident   Micro Biologist to answer this one and I shall
add it to   Fuel 101 and Dieselfuel 101. later.

FAQ # 1.  :     Where do the little grabbers come from ????.

FAQ # 2.  :     How many different types do we need to worry about  ????

FAQ # 3.  :     What is name of the most troublesome  ????.

Sure hope you write a Microbes 101.      they are a big problem.


Hagar.

PS:   Anyone with something of value --now is the time.

 
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Fri Apr 16 02:07:38 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Fri Apr 16 02:07:40 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  ) (fwd)
In-Reply-To: <1082054003.12037.4.camel@gary.home.lan>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMECFEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Oh, you can co-gen all you like, they are very co-gen friendly, just do it
on their terms, and sell the power virtually for free, so they can sell it
to someone else for .10/kw plus the "green" surcharge.  Green energy
bringing in the green I think it is called...  there must have been a
memo...

My beef is, if the nom cost is $.06, then it is $06.  not $.005  -They
should really pick one story and stick with it.
-James

> But, no co-gen? Do they have a justification for this?
>
> -Gary
>
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004



From gbangs at cfl.rr.com  Fri Apr 16 09:20:24 2004
From: gbangs at cfl.rr.com (gary)
Date: Fri Apr 16 09:20:26 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  ) (fwd)
In-Reply-To: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMECFEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
References: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMECFEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <1082122164.16646.6.camel@gary.home.lan>

Ah, I must have mis-read it.

But what a rip off!

They buy it for 1/2 cent and sell it for 6 cents. 1200% profit, not
counting the 'green' fees. 

It is obvious they are not interested in reducing energy conservation
and emission reduction.

Smells like a "waste, fraud, and abuse" class action suit waiting to
happen!

It is stories like these that give credence to the guerrilla power 
guys. 

-Gary


On Fri, 2004-04-16 at 02:07, James Hansen wrote:
> Oh, you can co-gen all you like, they are very co-gen friendly, just do it
> on their terms, and sell the power virtually for free, so they can sell it
> to someone else for .10/kw plus the "green" surcharge.  Green energy
> bringing in the green I think it is called...  there must have been a
> memo...
> 
> My beef is, if the nom cost is $.06, then it is $06.  not $.005  -They
> should really pick one story and stick with it.
> -James
> 
> > But, no co-gen? Do they have a justification for this?
> >
> > -Gary
> >
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From alstum at visuallink.com  Fri Apr 16 10:57:21 2004
From: alstum at visuallink.com (Al Stumbaugh)
Date: Fri Apr 16 10:57:22 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Owners Manual
Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20040416110241.0079f4d0@mail.visuallink.com>

Hi:
     I have an '84 Rabbit owners manual in good shape.
Yours if you want it, contact me off list and I will
mail it to you.

Al

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Fri Apr 16 16:21:54 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Fri Apr 16 16:21:55 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 65 --  ( Experiments )
Message-ID: <000d01c423f0$53702c40$69ed7240@svend>

A member asked me about "Airhead"  VW diesel .   Or more correctly would a
VW airhead work on diesel fuel ???

Answer is yes.    (but that does not make it a DIESEL).

Denmark 1956 or so  , Gasoline was expensive ------- cooking kerosene was cheap.

So I used kerosene in my Harley   (1926model)   worked like a charm.

So the modification to a VW airhead to run on diesel # 1 is minimal. (# 2 may work).

And hows about the VW diesel with sparkplugs replacing the glowplugs ??? .

Propane , Butane,Housegas,Alcohol,Canola,Carbon Monoxide,Lubeoil,Acetylene,
need I go on ???.      My favorite is splitting water , electrically. Have I done ???
bet your sweet ass.   Getting Oxygen at one electrode and Hydrogen at the other
really turns my crank.

To entertain the grandkids it makes a good big bang. Just fill a toy balloon.Or
try a bubble bath.

Hagar.

PS: Just watched a guy on CNN who claimed to make Dieselfuel from pig manure in
no time flat. So would you rather trail a Deepfryer or a Pigjuicer.?
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Fri Apr 16 17:06:55 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Fri Apr 16 17:06:56 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Fw: Power Generation --- ( electrical  ) (fwd)
Message-ID: <1db.1f2001ce.2db1a4e2@aol.com>

Ah, I must have mis-read it.

But what a rip off!

They buy it for 1/2 cent and sell it for 6 cents. 1200% profit, not
counting the 'green' fees. 


  You misread again.  :)  (or I did)  It's buy it at $.005, tell the public 
it 
costs $.06, (while you're telling your "suppliers" it's only $.005)  then 
sell it for .010.  More like 2000%.  Must be the cost of the bookeeping.

> 
> It is stories like these that give credence to the guerrilla power 
> guys. 
> 

  Here's the link to their home page.  The guerrilla story used to be on the 
front page somewhere.  Might have to search for it, if it's still online.  
Haven't 
had time to look here in a while.
 Home Power Magazine - Your Small Scale Renewable Energy (RE) Source 
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sat Apr 17 09:43:43 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sat Apr 17 09:43:45 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Power Generation  --- (  Power Factor for beginners )
Message-ID: <000201c42481$da907d60$29ed7240@svend>

FAQ  :    What do they mean by "Power Factor" ???.

Answer :   They are talking about the phase shift between Current and Voltage. A/C.

Engine power is a product of Torque and RPM.   Likewise electrical power is a
product of Amperage and Voltage .    To get energy we must add time.

Ideally the current should peak when the voltage is highest. Both being sine waves.

When that is the case we say Powerfactor is  "Parity"   "Unity"    "100 %"    "Good"
etc.

When it is not the case we say that the Powerfactor  is " Leading " or " Lagging" .

So why does the current not always follow the Voltage ???    there a two reasons
Inductance and Capacitance .

In an Inductance (like a motor)  --- The voltage peaks first ---then the current.   "Bad".

In a capacitor the current peaks first then the voltage.   "Good"

This shift is why we do not rate transformers and Generators etc   in Watts.   but 
in VA   volt amps.

Does the power company charge industrial customers for bad powerfactor ?   yes.

Why ?   because there is such a thing as  Wattless current.      If say you pull
100 amps when the voltage is 1 volts. (not likely)  the line has to support 100 Amps
but the company get paid for  100Watts--- they do not like that. So if your powerfactor
is below a set point, they penalize you.

 The simple way to correct a "Baddie"  is to connect some capacitors.  a  motor
will do the same thing  ---Synchronous motors look like capacitors if the field
is increased and the motor is not loaded.

Are you with me so far ???    ------ good.

Hagar.   

PS:    Leading current good   Lagging current  bad.
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Sat Apr 17 11:27:22 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Sat Apr 17 11:27:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV
Message-ID: <124.2d922748.2db2a6d5@wmconnect.com>

I currently own an '84 vanagon with a '95 Jetta 2.0L I4 motor conversion 
(great van, I didn't do the conversion or it would be diesel), and an '87 vanagon 
that I am currently working on putting a 1.6 TD motor into.  Both will be the 
stock vanagon diesel 50 degree tilt to driver's side.  The previous owner of 
the '84 van said that if he ever even slightly overfilled the oil (1/4 quart) 
it would spill out the PCV valve and get sucked into the fuel injection system, 
making a big mess.  He disconnected the hose from the intake and added a 
one-way check valve to make sure nothing got into the engine and set it up as just 
a road draft tube, so that if overfilled it would just spew out the tube and 
not muck up the FI.  
  I am concerned that the current setup will not vent crankcase fumes 
properly and will prematurely foul oil.  When I do the TD conversion I will be 
addressing the same issue.  I remember talk a little while ago about rerouting PCV 
to access on the block.  With a different setup I think I could address all my 
concerns.  Please tell me more. Thanks, Andrew.
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sat Apr 17 12:23:03 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sat Apr 17 12:23:05 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump VE Bosch --- ( lets master the little
	devils )
Message-ID: <000b01c42498$1dfa7a40$6aed7240@svend>


----- Original Message ----- 
From: H.Hagar 
To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com 
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 9:15 AM
Subject: Injection pump VE Bosch --- ( lets master the little devils )


Jeff Rakus  :    Post all the numbers on pump  and help will follow.

The Pump battalion is gathering recruits   ---   we are the special forces on
injection    "The Seals"      .

William A Thomson , Gary Orlando , Scott Kair , Loren , Nate , Sandy , and many more
are interested in nailing this pump down ---  

A lot of pumps are to be had for very little money.  So pump is scrapped ?    ---
the four delivery valves are worth money --- the regulator valve ---the solenoid --
so by the time you add it up even a RUSTY pump is worth money.

The biggest obstacle is the --protection of information by Bosch and Repair stations.
If I get it you will all get it ---read my lips.

Here is what I got :   Basic VE pump ,internal pressure .  Pump VW 068 130 107A
Pump RPM 500  2.4 to 3.0 bar.   750    3.5 to 4.1 bar  1000   4.6 to 5.2.
And that was difficult to get .


They are worried about the Gorilla repair movement.  They like to charge you for a complete
overhaul when in reality all you need is a dollar "O" ring.

If I live long enough I will get it all.   Man was I close to sign up for a repair course.

And fun it is.   like being a HAM or an Aviator.

Hagar.

PS:  And William I agree ----lot of bend over stuff.
From Doyt at NWOnline.Net  Sat Apr 17 13:57:03 2004
From: Doyt at NWOnline.Net (Doyt W. Echelberger)
Date: Sat Apr 17 13:57:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump VE Bosch --- ( lets master the
	little devils )
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20040417135259.01391fe0@mail.buckeye-express.com>

OK Hagar....Here is a quote from my "Diesel Fuel Injection, 5th Edition."

Author is talking about the 4 cylinder engine injector pump:

pg. 13...."Idle speed, maximum speed, and injection timing can be adjusted 
with workshop equipment; the stop solenoid can be replaced, the fuel 
delivery valve body can be replaced, but any internal problems means 
replacement of the pump."

pg.15...."vane pump delivery pressure is between 3 and 7 bar, depending on 
engine speed, and it is controlled by the regulating valve.....(pump 
delivery pressure) controls the injection timing advance mechanism." ""The 
vane pump and distributor plunger injection pressures cannot be checked 
easily with normal workshop equipment."

pg. 16...."....cam plate and rollers push the plunger and pressurize the 
fuel to about 1,800 psi.

pg. 20........cold start cam stops affecting injection timing beyond 2,200 RPM.

pg.21....Checking ignition timing with cold start knob pushed in: Remove 
bolt from end of pump. Mount adaptor 2006 in pump. Turn crankshaft until 
flywheel TDC mark is aligned with pointer on transmission housing. Install 
dial gauge to read about 3 mm.  Turn crankshaft backward until dial gauge 
needle stops moving. Set dial gauge to read exactly 1 mm. Turn crankshaft 
forward to TDC. Dial gauge should read 0.88 mm movement (1.15 mm movement 
applies to only 1980 Rabbits which have yellow paint mark on pump advance 
cover.)
If necessary, loosen 4 mounting bolts on pump. Turn pump body until dial 
gauge reading is correct. Re-tighten bolts and recheck injector timing.


Doyt Echelberger
84 rabbit D,  85 Jetta TD



 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
At 09:22 AM 4/17/2004 -0700, you wrote:

>----- Original Message -----
>From: H.Hagar
>To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 9:15 AM
>Subject: Injection pump VE Bosch --- ( lets master the little devils )
>
>
>Jeff Rakus  :    Post all the numbers on pump  and help will follow.
>
>The Pump battalion is gathering recruits   ---   we are the special forces on
>injection    "The Seals"      .
>
>William A Thomson , Gary Orlando , Scott Kair , Loren , Nate , Sandy , and 
>many more
>are interested in nailing this pump down ---
>
>A lot of pumps are to be had for very little money.  So pump is scrapped 
>?    ---
>the four delivery valves are worth money --- the regulator valve ---the 
>solenoid --
>so by the time you add it up even a RUSTY pump is worth money.
>
>The biggest obstacle is the --protection of information by Bosch and 
>Repair stations.
>If I get it you will all get it ---read my lips.
>
>Here is what I got :   Basic VE pump ,internal pressure .  Pump VW 068 130 
>107A
>Pump RPM 500  2.4 to 3.0 bar.   750    3.5 to 4.1 bar  1000   4.6 to 5.2.
>And that was difficult to get .
>
>
>They are worried about the Gorilla repair movement.  They like to charge 
>you for a complete
>overhaul when in reality all you need is a dollar "O" ring.
>
>If I live long enough I will get it all.   Man was I close to sign up for 
>a repair course.
>
>And fun it is.   like being a HAM or an Aviator.
>
>Hagar.
>
>PS:  And William I agree ----lot of bend over stuff.

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Sun Apr 18 13:22:11 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Sun Apr 18 13:22:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Spalling on Outer CV Joint  
Message-ID: <000c01c42569$8af321c0$61ed7240@svend>

Because I have the drivelines out, and am renewing them, I am
motivated to ask what the experienced folks do.  Should I reuse that
joint with spalling on 3 out of the 6 groves which is otherwise free
of play and works smoothly?  Or should I replace it?
Gavrik Peterson


I have worked on a hell of a lot of different designs ----- this VW  masterpiece
beats them all. (  that was the experience )

KEEP on using .    It sounds to me that you do not have "Spalling" in the normal
sense of bearings.  It sound like chrome flaking off .  If the balls are ok keep using.

Take a close look at the chrome ---- is it chromed ?

Hagar.
From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Sun Apr 18 15:21:05 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Sun Apr 18 15:21:05 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Spalling on Outer CV Joint  
In-Reply-To: <000c01c42569$8af321c0$61ed7240@svend>
References: <000c01c42569$8af321c0$61ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <fte580dccm6i4oj6tvfa49gkc7cmucpp2c@4ax.com>

Hagar.

>Take a close look at the chrome ---- is it chromed?

Nope.  I think I am just looking at metal.  The part of the joint that
is exposed to the elements has a thin coating of rust.  Do they
sometimes chrome CV joints?  This one is made by Lobro in Germany.

>It sounds to me that you do not have "Spalling" in the normal
>sense of bearings.

The spalling or pitting I am talking about is deep -- not just a
surface coating that has flaked off.

Looking at the joint (I am talking about the outer part of an outer
joint) I see places where the grooves have an area that looks and
feels rough.  You can place a fingernail into one of these patches and
feel the roughness which is on the scale of sand.  Clearly, a
significant amount of metal has been removed.

I notice that small patches are located near the rim of the groove.
Larger patches always extend from near the rim down toward the groove
bottom.  This makes me think that the spalling starts near the groove
rim and then progresses down as the patch grows.  This makes some
sense because when a joint is delivering large torque the balls load
the side of the grooves.  When the joint is delivering zero torque the
balls just contact the groove bottom.  This may explain why an
assembled joint operates smoothly when you move it by hand, even
though there are rough patches on the sides of the groves.

In the past other joints have had this kind of wear.  I have only
observed spalling on the outer part of an outer joint.  I never see
significant wear on the balls or the inner part of the joint.

>This VW  masterpiece beats them all.

Can't say how VW CV joints stack up as they are the only ones I have
worked on.  They sure have some tricky to machine surfaces in there,
and I must say that I find it amazing, how well they work.

Thanks for the response.


Gavrik Peterson

From DrDotgain at cox.net  Sun Apr 18 17:42:14 2004
From: DrDotgain at cox.net (Bruce Brier)
Date: Sun Apr 18 17:42:15 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
In-Reply-To: <BC9F5C68.2E0C%DrDotgain@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BCA86EE3.2FB9%DrDotgain@cox.net>

Hi Chuck,

I go to a WalMart in Seekonk, MA and the Syntec has none of the designations
in the owner's manual, just a bunch of ILSAC nubers which are irrelevant to
TDIs. Best thing I found there for TDI is Shell Rotella T full synthetic
(blue jug 1 gal for about $12.88) which carries API Service CG-4

The 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies...
     ACEA B3
     ACEA B4
     API CF-4
     API CG-4 
I would assume API CH-4 and API CI-4 would be OK too, but they hadn't been
invented at the time of printing, 2000). It mentions also
     VW 502.00
     VW 500.00
     VW 501.01

It's not entirely clear to me that the Syntec oil sold at the VW dealer
exactly meets what the 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies. The Syntec from
the VW dealership costs $6.60 per qt and up... it is 5w40 viscosity and the
fine print... 

     API Service SJ/CF
     ACEA: A3, B4/98
     Also exceed the world's toughest
     engine protection requirements
     including Volkswagen's 502.00 and 505.00

So the manual does not mention ACEA A3 or ACEA B4/98 and API CF is not the
same as CF-4. Folks at Fred's are highly critical of the dealership's Syntec
all the time... they say it's not true synthetic and doesn't have the top
additives in the business... they predict long-term problems clogging the
intake runners, and they caution that the turbo needs to cool down for 60
seconds before shutting down the engine when the turbo is hot... like when
you are late for the dentist on a summer afternoon, you get there with a
screaming hot turbo, but you have to wait 60 seconds to go in. If you shut
it down like that, the turbo bearings cook the oil, because it isn't getting
replenished with fresh circulated oil from the sump.  Both problems are
alleviated to a degree by Mobil Delvac-1 (you can buy from AVLUBE.COM $85 +
$16 shipping per 4 gallons). If you have a Freightliner dealer near you,
then try to get Delvac-1 5w40 there and save $16 on shipping. Note that
Mobil-1 is not Delvac-1, and stay away from Delvac 1300 (available from your
Mobil truckstop).. it is not a synthetic oil.

Some folks at Fred's prefer Amsoil Series 3000 even though it is only 5w30.

I no longer use the dealer Syntec, which in my car evaporates into the
intake manifold at a rate of 1/4 qt per 2,000 miles. Nor do I use Rotella T,
with an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 3,000 miles. I am using the Delvac-1, with
an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 5,000 miles. I change it at 10,000 miles. Oil
analyses (from others on Fred's forum) indicates 10,000 miles is not even
close to the limit for Delvac-1, and they say (but I do not recommend)
15,000 miles between oil changes.

I also found some listing on the Mobil website for Mobil-1 in viscosity 0w40
that carries VW 502.00 but do not know anything more on that.

Best place on the web for oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, cabin pollen
filter is VWPARTS.COM bundled price $46. You deposit $46 into a PayPal
account and Dan will ship it to you within three days.

I implore you to confirm the fine print on the back of the Syntec 5w40
bottle at WalMart before you buy it. There's no pressing need to email me,
since I won't be putting it in my car even if it is $3 per qt.

Bruce Brier

> From: Bruce Brier <DrDotgain@cox.net>
> Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:34:49 -0400
> To: Chuck Carnohan <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>, <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> You had better make sure the WalMart Castrol Syntec meets the minimum
> standards in your owners manual. My experience has been that the 505.00 (or
> 505.01 spec for PD engines) that is met by the special Castrol Syntec they
> sell at VW ($7) is _not_ met by the Syntec sold at regular stores. (Do they
> even have the 5w40 spec?) Some brands such as Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40
> (blue bottle) meet CH-4 which is fine for my 2000 TDI. However the Mobil
> Delvac-1 and the Amsoil synthetic are considered the first and second
> choices (or the second and first choices) by the lube-geniuses at Fred's
> TDICLUB site. Regarding the 10,000 mile interval, don't worry; be happy. But
> do check that there isn't a time limit ... I don't remember if there is a
> time limit because I hit 10,000 every 4 months.
> 
> Dr. Dotgain
> 
>> From: "Chuck Carnohan" <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>
>> Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:46:47 -0700
>> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
>> Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
>> 
>> Castrol Syntec is what the dealership here in Idaho uses.  It is
>> available at Walmart.  My maintenance schedule for a '03 Golf TDI shows
>> 5K mile intervals for the first 10K miles then it drops back to once
>> every 10K miles.  I was misled by the manual until my wife pointed it
>> out!  It's hard for me to accept an oil change at 10K!  Kinda scary.
>> 
>> Chuck Carnohan
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From DrDotgain at cox.net  Sun Apr 18 18:13:45 2004
From: DrDotgain at cox.net (Bruce Brier)
Date: Sun Apr 18 18:13:46 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Additional fuel via carb(was Ron's VE)
In-Reply-To: <a3.56afabe8.2daf88db@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BCA87648.2FBA%DrDotgain@cox.net>

Let's see if I got this right, but if I don't have it right and this is a
new idea, let's all split the millions of dollars we earn from this idea...

It's a low-compression ratio diesel engine that has some pressure cooker
technology. You still need the high-pressure fuel injection, but add a port
fuel injector from a gasser but not for gasoline... it's to add liquid water
into the intake charge. Instead of 19.5:1 compression ratio, just compress
about 15:1 or however much is needed to achieve compression ignition of the
diesel fuel. Why the lower comp ratio? Well, the water expands when it
vaporizes so you get more pressure from less physical compression. Obviously
you will want to have the ECU tune the water injection quantity so that you
still can achieve compression ignition over all RPM ranges.

Advantages I could predict (without a shred of evidence)... The slower
reaction with high-humidity air could yield better efficiency. It could also
reduce diesel clatter... (some folks will complain if it's eliminated
entirely). There could be a reduction of NOx at this lower compression
ratio. Exhaust temps could be lower for longer turbo longevity.

Disadvantages... Water tank another fluid to keep topped off and unfrozen
(Use blue windshield washer fluid as water source? Oops, that costs more
than diesel fuel). Water in the blow-by thru the piston rings mixing with
engine oil to create foamy colloid. Rust forming in turbo during cooldown.

Dr. Dotgain

> From: LBaird119@aol.com
> Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2004 02:42:35 EDT
> To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Additional fuel via carb(was Ron's VE)
> 
> BUT what if water vapour was injected?
> Heat would be absorbed by the expansion of the water and so maintaining safe
> operating temp???
> 
> I went to a seminar/got a book several years ago about getting better
> mileage.  One of the "simple" things was "water injection."  Instead of
> the old "bubbling bottle" or a spray injection his preference was actually
> for steam injection.  Or, what most call steam.  The idea was to use a
> washer pump and nozzle to spray under a shield over the exhaust then
> suck the vapor in the intake.  It's not quite full steam at that point so
> the added expansion helps control hot spots and adds extra power.
> Something about steam expanding more than the loss in volumt due
> to the heat it takes to make it or something along that thought.
> Loren
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Sun Apr 18 19:11:48 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Sun Apr 18 19:11:50 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Need Oil Pump Help
Message-ID: <d9l5805iov3v1hh0mtudiil8k5b4e7998g@4ax.com>

While I was installing the sprockets and pulleys on that rebuilt 1.6L
diesel engine, I found yet another problem.  I noticed that the
intermediate shaft pulley was difficult to turn.  I could rotate it by
hand, but only with great effort.  I then removed the vacuum pump and
tried directly rotating the shaft of the pump with pliers.  This was
also very difficult.

I found that the pump shaft was binding between the bushing in the
pump and the bushing in the engine block that is located where the
pump shaft enters the cavity where the vacuum pump mounts.  With
further investigation, I found that this was because the bushing in
the pump was misaligned.  This misalignment can be seen by placing a
square between the mounting surface of pump and the pump shaft.

As an experiment, I reinstalled the pump, using shims to try to
correct for the misalignment of the shaft.  It was not hard to find a
combination of shim location and thickness that allowed the pump to
turn quite freely.

The defective pump is only identified by the name SCHADEK.  For some
reason the rebuilder selected a high volume pump (36mm).  I don't know
where it was made.

Wow, I do love to get into the details.

Ok, here are my questions:

(1) What oil pump should I order for this non-turbo engine?  Should I
stick with a stock pump (26mm) or is there some reason better to go
with one of these higher volume pumps (30 or 36 mm)?  I could use some
help in specifying the correct pump.

(2) Does anyone know how much clearance should exist between the oil
pump shaft and that top bushing in the block up near the vacuum pump?
Is it important for this clearance to be low or is it non-critical?

(3) The intermediate shaft pulley has about 10 degrees of play.  Is
this excessive?  What is normal play?  Does this mean that I should
replace the vacuum pump?


Gavrik Peterson

From cvaf4u at rhinocat.com  Sun Apr 18 19:46:04 2004
From: cvaf4u at rhinocat.com (cvaf4u@rhinocat.com)
Date: Sun Apr 18 19:46:04 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV
Message-ID: <2004418164545.898378@OLIVER>

I was walking around the local FLAPS and noticed this new Mobil 1 
marked for Truck and SUV.   It's 5W-40 and the label and website gives 
a rating of:

Meets and exceeds the most stringent U.S., European and Japanese 
industry and engine-builder specifications and approvals, including:

- API SL/SJ for gasoline engines.
- API CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/CF-4/CF for diesel engines. 
Meets diesel engine requirements of Cummins, Powerstroke, Duramax and 
Navistar where API CI-4 is required.

Wally world had it in stock also for the same price as gasser Mobil 1.

Now, call me skeptical, but I get the feeling this is no different 
than all the other Mobil 1 grades.  

Any way, I guess this stuff is equivalent to the Delvac 1 at a cheaper 
price and locally accessible.


Chance
85 VW Golf 1.6 NA
http://www.rhinocat.com/~cvaf4u




From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Sun Apr 18 19:52:13 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Sun Apr 18 19:52:14 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Spalling on Outer CV Joint
In-Reply-To: <200404182338.TAA10866@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <fte580dccm6i4oj6tvfa49gkc7cmucpp2c@4ax.com>
	<200404182338.TAA10866@swamps.roc.ny.us>
Message-ID: <j04680tf4krt17hpsdshnptoo24n0kgtjo@4ax.com>

Val,

>Given your description, I would replace.  The rough surface will
>continue to wear.  A siezed CV joint is no fun.

I think that I will replace that joint.

>Usually they give lots of warning.

I guess that cv joints are tough enough that even if the surface is
broken the damage does not progress that fast.

So, Ethan's proposal to continue using the old joint is a reasonable
alternative.  There was spalling on this joint when I reassembled the
drive shaft 60k miles ago and it is not all that much worse now.


Gavrik Peterson

From dieseltdi at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 18 20:24:23 2004
From: dieseltdi at earthlink.net (Hayden Chasteen)
Date: Sun Apr 18 20:24:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] New Passat TDI - second impressions after 750 mile trip.
Message-ID: <E5EE2AA1-9197-11D8-A502-000A959B975C@earthlink.net>

Well I can now give a better description of how I feel about the car.  
I have gotten used to the  Tiptronic as it reacts very rapidly when 
asked although I still forget to put in in park before trying to take 
the key out. :P  Out trip took us on a 750 mile round trip over two 
days.  First day was all two lane highway with many towns, stop signs 
and stop lights.  I did this on purpose to help with the break in. I 
varied speed on an almost constant basis while cruising from a low of 
55 to a high of 70.  Trip was essentially all up hill as we gained 2300 
feet in the drive.  AC was only used for the last 2 hours.  Hard wind 
blowing almost head on to the car, actually at an angle to the drivers 
side.  Overall, car performed well although anyone who prefers a tight 
suspension will be disappointed as the car is very soft and any luxury 
car tends to be.  Not as soft as some big boat cars I have driven but 
soft.  Mileage was excellent for a car as big and as heavy as the 
Passat, on the outbound we got 36 mpg.  Return trip was mostly on the 
interstate but I still avoided the cruise control and varied my speed 
between 60 and 75 mph. Good tail wind but that only lasted about 1/2 
the trip then it developed as a crosswind.  When all was said and down 
car got 39 mpg.  I am very pleased since EPA ratings on the car is 27 
city and 38 on the highway.  Oil use was negligible for the trip.  More 
as things develop.  hayden

Visit my website at  www.home.earthlink.net/~dieseltdi
Proud owner of:
2004 Passat TDI GLS, 2.0l, 16 valve, 136 HP, 247 lb/ft of torque, Blue 
Graphite, Anthracite leather interior, ABS, ESP.
1998 Jetta TDI (Wetterauer Chipset, 2 1/2" exhaust, K&N Filter, propane 
dual fuel system, 109K+ miles, and running biodiesel)
1981 Rabbit Pickup ( with a freshly rebuilt turbo engine), Will burn 
biodiesel and WVO with a propane injection system.
One, yet to be finished, Caddy trailer (the back end of the truck that 
gave its life to my just completed Rabbit Pickup).
And many, many, many VWs; from a 1946 Beetle (11 Beetles total), to 
Vans (5), Rabbits (3), Karmen Ghia (1), Jettas (5), Passat (1), Dasher 
(1), New Beetle (1), and Rabbit Pickups (3) most now gone but not 
forgotten.

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Sun Apr 18 22:16:27 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Sun Apr 18 22:16:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Crankcase ventilation
Message-ID: <11d.2dec48bb.2db4906f@wmconnect.com>

I remember a discussion on this group not long ago about being able to vent 
the crankcase from a location other than the typical valve cover setup.  
Specifics/response would be greatly appreciated. 

Andrew 
From r.c.brown at ieee.org  Sun Apr 18 23:15:34 2004
From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown)
Date: Sun Apr 18 23:15:36 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Crankcase ventilation
References: <11d.2dec48bb.2db4906f@wmconnect.com>
Message-ID: <40834453.EC0E5668@ieee.org>

Libbybapa@wmconnect.com wrote:
> 
> I remember a discussion on this group not long ago about being able to vent
> the crankcase from a location other than the typical valve cover setup.
> Specifics/response would be greatly appreciated.

I run the following:


Intake----+
          |
          +---ValveCover
          |
          |
          |
          +---VacuumPump
          |
          |
CrankCase-+

-- 
   Roger
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 19 02:16:56 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 02:16:57 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Spalling on Outer CV Joint  
Message-ID: <6.26e12238.2db4c8d0@aol.com>

  In a "have to guarantee it" situation REPLACE THE JOINT!  In a "use it 
yourself situation"  it depends on cash flow.  If it's affordable then 
replace 
it.  If not then get some GOOD grease, clean it thoroughly and repack it.
IIRC my Rabbit's joints were less than perfect.  I bought a tube or two of 
Amsoil's #1 or #2 grease and repacked all 4 when I did my major overhaul.  
The orchard bought some HT Moly grease after that.  It's good but doesn't 
have that "still slippery on the fingers even after a couple washings" effect 

that the Amsoil did.  I've repacked several joints with the "kit" grease 
since but for my "keepers" I'll likely pick up more of the Amsoil.
     Loren
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 19 02:45:37 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 02:45:37 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Need Oil Pump Help
Message-ID: <127.3f033ea7.2db4cf8d@aol.com>


> (1) What oil pump should I order for this non-turbo engine?  Should I
> stick with a stock pump (26mm) or is there some reason better to go
> with one of these higher volume pumps (30 or 36 mm)?  I could use some
> help in specifying the correct pump.

  26mm is standard but I'd be inclined to opt for the 30. If you end up with 
a leaker bearing, such as the int. shaft bearings tend to do, it'll 
compensate 
better.  Also you should get a little faster oiling on startup.  It's a 15% 
increase over the "stock" pump.  I believe VW went to the 30 mm pump 
in the 80's somewhere (still on A1's).  26 will do, 30 shouldn't hurt. : )
  I've put the 36mm pump in for a couple reasons.  The makeshift 
oil squirters I've done on the Rabbit have no low pressure shut out 
so I need more low rpm volume.  The jetta had a 30mm pump, it 
was worn as were a lot of internals from the circulating metal from 
the ground up thrust surface.  With actual squirters plus a turbo, I 
figured it wasn't all that much overkill.  It IS when my oil usage 
problem started but it only exacerbated a symptom rather than 
being the probem.  I now have almost 15K on the last re-ring 
(with ME honing this time) and NO oil smoke startups. :)  :) 

> 
> (2) Does anyone know how much clearance should exist between the oil
> pump shaft and that top bushing in the block up near the vacuum pump?
> Is it important for this clearance to be low or is it non-critical?


  You talking like the relationship between a piston and the bore or how 
"long" the shaft is?  Since you were able to shim something was it the 
relationship of the shaft to the vacuum pump or (me tired brain thinks 
more likely you're saying) with the oil pump installed, the upper shaft 
support bushing is out of whack.  That might be a bit of a buggar to 
fix without a mill, or making is sloppy.  It's a pressure oiled bushing 
I believe so there's where the bigger oil pump comes into play.  ;-)

> 
> (3) The intermediate shaft pulley has about 10 degrees of play.  Is
> this excessive?  What is normal play?  Does this mean that I should
> replace the vacuum pump?
> 

  Change the pinion depth!   You could check for gear wear but they 
usually don't show that much.  If boring your bushing properly would 
put the top of the shaft a bit closer to the int. shaft then that would 
eliminate some of the play.  At least the vacuum pump timing isn't 
critical.   ;-)  (Of course we don't tell the rookies that though)  ;-D

  If you replace the 36mm pump (which IS overkill on a non hydraulic 
and non TD engine) may I have first dibbies on it?  I need one for my 
son's Dasher.  Should be getting the turbo stuff this week and his 
BD is a week from now.  I need to put a 36mm pump on it to make 
sure the turbo gets oil at an idle.  : o
From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Mon Apr 19 04:02:24 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Mon Apr 19 04:02:26 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Need Oil Pump Help
In-Reply-To: <127.3f033ea7.2db4cf8d@aol.com>
References: <127.3f033ea7.2db4cf8d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0lt6805nnbnc65ke98ub2gc39nukr97m84@4ax.com>

Loren,

It looks like you are also a night owl.

>You talking like the relationship between a piston and the bore or how 
>"long" the shaft is?  Since you were able to shim something was it the 
>relationship of the shaft to the vacuum pump or (me tired brain thinks 
>more likely you're saying) with the oil pump installed, the upper shaft 
>support bushing is out of whack.  That might be a bit of a buggar to 
>fix without a mill, or making is sloppy.  It's a pressure oiled bushing 
>I believe so there's where the bigger oil pump comes into play.  ;-)

Actually, I am not sure how my brain is doing right now (need food),
but here goes.

I was trying to say that there is a manufacturing defect in that
particular oil pump.  The defects is that the bushing in the pump
housing -- that the pump shaft goes through, is misaligned.  That is,
the axis of this bushing is not normal to (90 degrees) the machined
mounting surface on the top of the pump, as it should be.  Because of
this misalignment, if one mounts the pump in its proper position, just
using your hand to hold it there, that upper bushing (close to the
vacuum pump) will force the pump shaft into an angle that is normal to
the mounting surface on the block.  This is as things should be.  The
problem is that because the bushing in the pump is misaligned, the
mounting surface of the pump will not be exactly parallel with the
surface on the block.  When you tighten the pump mounting bolts these
two surfaces are forced together and the pump housing rotates through
a small angle.  This causes binding in the pump bushing and the
binding cause the friction that I was concerned about.  There will be
three interferences between the shaft and the bushings.  Two in the
pump bushing and one in that upper bushing in the block.

>Change the pinion depth!   You could check for gear wear but they 
>usually don't show that much.  If boring your bushing properly would 
>put the top of the shaft a bit closer to the int. shaft then that would 
>eliminate some of the play.

I don't understand.  Could you try to explain this again?

>If you replace the 36mm pump (which IS overkill on a non hydraulic 
>and non TD engine) may I have first dibbies on it?

Not sure you would want it given that it has this problem.  I will
have to check to see if the rebuild shop wants it back.


Gavrik

From mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk  Mon Apr 19 06:17:21 2004
From: mark at shepher.fsnet.co.uk (Mark Shepherd)
Date: Mon Apr 19 06:17:22 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Quantum-Theory
Message-ID: <15804826.1082369839260.JavaMail.www@wwinf3003>

[Well practice actually]
Went for a weekend up north...190 mile trip after my adding some diesel 'Redex' a few days earlier...

Going up at between 60 and 70 mph achieved 13.27 miles per litre... or 60.24 mpg (imperial)...or 4.71 litres per 100 km :op

230 miles back including  190 miles at between 65 and 75 [eager to be going home] and 40 mile dithering at the friends... 
returned 58.1 mpg [imp] or 12.8 miles per litre
or 7.82litre per100mile
or 4.88litre per 100km

Both journeys were better than previously managed [56mpg imp]
Can it be I'm a more sedate driver these days or did the Redex really make a difference...only used injector cleaner once before and I'd made other improvements at the same time [ie timing]

Car did 35-40 when acquired 4 years ago @130000 miles... now on about 160000 and doing 41- ...er 60 :oD
Can you guys please explain your use of  ATF [ is that auto box oil??]...never had an auto; and unless someone cuts my legs off...never will  ;o)

Mark (The Miser)Uk
"There's nothing more stimulating than driving past a bonfire and then realising it's your car that's smokin"



Join the UK's number one for the internet 
www.freeserve.com/time
From scott3491 at insightbb.com  Mon Apr 19 07:06:01 2004
From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair)
Date: Mon Apr 19 07:06:03 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Quantum-Theory
References: <15804826.1082369839260.JavaMail.www@wwinf3003>
Message-ID: <00cf01c425fe$6568bba0$6401a8c0@insightbb.com>


----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Shepherd" <mark@shepher.fsnet.co.uk>

> Can you guys please explain your use of  ATF [ is that auto box
oil??]...never had an auto; and unless someone cuts my legs off...never will
;o)
>

    Should you lose your leg and have to convert to an auto, you'll still be
screwed, as Quantum auto transmissions lead to  walking.
    Auto box lube (ATF) is the original magic potion for cleaning injectors.
When I first began driving VWD's, my father in law told me about it, having
learned the trick in the Army in the mid-50's.
    There seems to be some question as to its efficacy in modern engines,
with modern formulations of ATF.  Additionally, the use of ATF predates
specific injector cleaner formulations.
    When I first got into VWD's, filling new fuel filters with ATF was
standard practice, but we seem to have better stuff available now.
    Scott Kair


From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 19 10:19:33 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 19 10:19:34 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV  
Message-ID: <002001c42619$31a5bdc0$44ed7240@svend>

A can of worms   ----  blowby  and overfilling ?   ---- next thing you now 
you will be in phoenix in half an hour.   

Use industrial airhose (black) to route it to tailpipe for ventury extraction. Thats
what I did and it worked.

Hose can handle lube in industry -----air oilers.

EGR   is a container of worms.  ---- just to sell cars the GM V8 Diesels used 
corrosive exhaust recycling  -----   stupid.

Hagar. 

PS :  PCV   will ruin your airfilters as well.
From HWY9FERGS at cs.com  Mon Apr 19 10:44:33 2004
From: HWY9FERGS at cs.com (HWY9FERGS@cs.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 10:44:35 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints
Message-ID: <35.46279694.2db53fca@cs.com>

Hi all, One idea on getting the most out of your joints is to swap them over 
to the other side.  The worn surfaces will only be loaded during deceleration 
and in reverse.  Lots less stress.  I haven't tried that yet but seems like it 
makes sense.  Later on.

Doug Ferguson
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 19 11:52:27 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 11:52:27 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints
Message-ID: <24.540f20dd.2db54fb4@aol.com>


> Hi all, One idea on getting the most out of your joints is to swap them 
> over 
> to the other side.  The worn surfaces will only be loaded during 
> deceleration 
> and in reverse.  Lots less stress.  I haven't tried that yet but seems like 
> it 
> makes sense.  Later on.
> 

  The problem I see with this is that you'll put a sudden load on things 
as the ball rolls across the previously worn grove.  This could break 
the cage, the weakest part of the joint.  When that cage goes there's a 
crunch and then free wheeling.  It may only clunk or clack as well.
     Loren
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 19 13:13:50 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Mon Apr 19 13:13:51 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV
References: <2004418164545.898378@OLIVER>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV50LAKowuxQ00008abc@hotmail.com>

There already has been several heated debates on Fred's TDIclub about this
new oil.  Some say it's Delvac-1, some say it's not.  I've not been able to
compare the specs of each oil myself, but others that claim to have, have
said both oils are virtually the same.

The main thing I'd want to know is, is this new oil a Group 4 oil like
Delvac-1, or a cheaper Group 3 knock-off.  If a gallon of the new Truck &
SUV is cheaper than D1, I bet it's Group 3.

How much for a gallon of D1 and a gallon of Truck & SUV in your area?

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 99k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cvaf4u@rhinocat.com>
To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Cc: <audi-vw-diesels@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 6:45 PM
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Mobil 1 Truck & SUV


I was walking around the local FLAPS and noticed this new Mobil 1
marked for Truck and SUV.   It's 5W-40 and the label and website gives
a rating of:

Meets and exceeds the most stringent U.S., European and Japanese
industry and engine-builder specifications and approvals, including:

- API SL/SJ for gasoline engines.
- API CI-4/CH-4/CG-4/CF-4/CF for diesel engines.
Meets diesel engine requirements of Cummins, Powerstroke, Duramax and
Navistar where API CI-4 is required.

Wally world had it in stock also for the same price as gasser Mobil 1.

Now, call me skeptical, but I get the feeling this is no different
than all the other Mobil 1 grades.

Any way, I guess this stuff is equivalent to the Delvac 1 at a cheaper
price and locally accessible.


Chance
85 VW Golf 1.6 NA
http://www.rhinocat.com/~cvaf4u
From texasvwdriver at hotmail.com  Mon Apr 19 13:31:07 2004
From: texasvwdriver at hotmail.com (TexasTDI)
Date: Mon Apr 19 13:31:08 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
References: <BCA86EE3.2FB9%DrDotgain@cox.net>
Message-ID: <BAY10-DAV18iCzA5ycQ0000a976@hotmail.com>

CI-4 is the most current API rating, followed by CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, and
finally CF.  CI-4 is the ONLY rating that's specifically designed for a
diesel engine with an EGR.  So CI-4 oils are the best choice for the EGR
equipped TDI engine.  Shell Rotella T 5w-40 is API CH-4.

5w-30 is acceptable in the TDI engine.  So, as mentioned in the quote,
AMSOIL users often use Series 3000 5w-30.  (I personally use full synthetic
15w-40 in both of my diesels).  But AMSOIL now offers a full synthetic CI-4
5w-40 as well.  I plan on switching to AMSOIL 5w-40 in the TDI at 100k miles
to see how the oil performs and see if I notice any change in fuel mileage.
(Some folks believe using a thick oil like 15w-40 hurts fuel mileage.  But I
get 45mpg on the highway in my chipped TDI using AMSOIL 15w-40 with the A/C
on at traveling at 70mph.  Not bad IMO).

I've never seen Castrol Syntec 5w-40 anywhere except at the stealership.
It's VWoA's choice of oil.  But it's way overpriced.  Especially considering
it's only a Group 3 oil.  You can get higher quality Group 4 oils for the
same price, or even cheaper, than the Castrol Syntec 5w-40.

Christopher J. Thornton
1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
2000 VW Golf 1.9 TDI (turbo diesel) - 99k miles
AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500
http://www.amsoil.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bruce Brier" <DrDotgain@cox.net>
To: <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>; <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01


> Hi Chuck,
>
> I go to a WalMart in Seekonk, MA and the Syntec has none of the
designations
> in the owner's manual, just a bunch of ILSAC nubers which are irrelevant
to
> TDIs. Best thing I found there for TDI is Shell Rotella T full synthetic
> (blue jug 1 gal for about $12.88) which carries API Service CG-4
>
> The 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies...
>      ACEA B3
>      ACEA B4
>      API CF-4
>      API CG-4
> I would assume API CH-4 and API CI-4 would be OK too, but they hadn't been
> invented at the time of printing, 2000). It mentions also
>      VW 502.00
>      VW 500.00
>      VW 501.01
>
> It's not entirely clear to me that the Syntec oil sold at the VW dealer
> exactly meets what the 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies. The Syntec from
> the VW dealership costs $6.60 per qt and up... it is 5w40 viscosity and
the
> fine print...
>
>      API Service SJ/CF
>      ACEA: A3, B4/98
>      Also exceed the world's toughest
>      engine protection requirements
>      including Volkswagen's 502.00 and 505.00
>
> So the manual does not mention ACEA A3 or ACEA B4/98 and API CF is not the
> same as CF-4. Folks at Fred's are highly critical of the dealership's
Syntec
> all the time... they say it's not true synthetic and doesn't have the top
> additives in the business... they predict long-term problems clogging the
> intake runners, and they caution that the turbo needs to cool down for 60
> seconds before shutting down the engine when the turbo is hot... like when
> you are late for the dentist on a summer afternoon, you get there with a
> screaming hot turbo, but you have to wait 60 seconds to go in. If you shut
> it down like that, the turbo bearings cook the oil, because it isn't
getting
> replenished with fresh circulated oil from the sump.  Both problems are
> alleviated to a degree by Mobil Delvac-1 (you can buy from AVLUBE.COM $85
+
> $16 shipping per 4 gallons). If you have a Freightliner dealer near you,
> then try to get Delvac-1 5w40 there and save $16 on shipping. Note that
> Mobil-1 is not Delvac-1, and stay away from Delvac 1300 (available from
your
> Mobil truckstop).. it is not a synthetic oil.
>
> Some folks at Fred's prefer Amsoil Series 3000 even though it is only
5w30.
>
> I no longer use the dealer Syntec, which in my car evaporates into the
> intake manifold at a rate of 1/4 qt per 2,000 miles. Nor do I use Rotella
T,
> with an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 3,000 miles. I am using the Delvac-1, with

> an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 5,000 miles. I change it at 10,000 miles. Oil
> analyses (from others on Fred's forum) indicates 10,000 miles is not even
> close to the limit for Delvac-1, and they say (but I do not recommend)
> 15,000 miles between oil changes.
From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Mon Apr 19 15:03:17 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Mon Apr 19 15:03:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints
In-Reply-To: <24.540f20dd.2db54fb4@aol.com> from "LBaird119@aol.com" at Apr 19,
	2004 11:52:20 AM
Message-ID: <200404191940.PAA16754@swamps.roc.ny.us>

I know someone who had their VW CV joint sieze up during extreme cold,
as he hit a pothole.  The car slid all over the place, and it was a real
pain to fix out of the shop.  That, plus lower CV joint costs, has made 
me elect to replace when in doubt.  The only time I don't is when I
find a torn boot shortly after it happened.  Then I just reboot, or 
clean, grease and reboot.  Some things aren't worth having fail on the
road.  

Val

> 
> 
> > Hi all, One idea on getting the most out of your joints is to swap them 
> > over 
> > to the other side.  The worn surfaces will only be loaded during 
> > deceleration 
> > and in reverse.  Lots less stress.  I haven't tried that yet but seems like 
> > it 
> > makes sense.  Later on.
> > 
> 
>   The problem I see with this is that you'll put a sudden load on things 
> as the ball rolls across the previously worn grove.  This could break 
> the cage, the weakest part of the joint.  When that cage goes there's a 
> crunch and then free wheeling.  It may only clunk or clack as well.
>      Loren
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 19 16:38:47 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 19 16:38:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints  chromed  ? --- ( yeah surpriced me too )
Message-ID: <000a01c4264e$2b6413a0$33ed7240@svend>

I was cleaning up some outer joints  ---- the splined part.

And blasting is a good way to identify metals.   If someone gives me
a shaft , and say "is this really titanium?"    I say give me a minute
and one little blast in the blasting booth with the lights off , will tell.
Nothing looks like the sparks coming off Titanium or Chrome other than
that.

Titanium is very white. And  chrome is easy to recognize.

So "WHAT" ?   was chromed ---was it the spline ? or what.

For safety replace joints in doubt , if wife or girlfriend is using the VW. Remember
control of vehicle at high speed may be involved.

Personally I would stake my life on Gavriks joints if his description is accurate.

The main trouble with joints is lack of maintenance , not a bad design.  Rust and
lack of lube.  I use real screwclamps holding the rubber booth on   ---way better
than ty-raps and the originals.

It was said here that the splines do not rust ----well mine did.

So coat the spline in LOTS of  Neversneeze. Marine grade  it got Zinc.

Chrome is used in other  front Joints. Like Landrovers.

I think balls are installed with preload. --- So it takes a long time to detect backlash.

Put shaft in vice and really twist joint to check for slack.And you will soon learn what
is a bad joint.

Them other "Joints" ?   I know nothing about.  ----and do not need to know.

Keep your boots in good shape . And the clamps tight.

Hagar.
From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Mon Apr 19 16:49:47 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 16:49:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV  
Message-ID: <1d3.1f0f1d1d.2db59562@wmconnect.com>

I'm a fairly casual driver, but like to go the speed limit, or up to 5 mph 
over.  I don't ever (unless I don't realize) go faster.  On occasion there will 
be another driver who seems to want to kiss my tailpipe.  The safety of the 
situation (I have a vivid imagination, and have seen elk moving- even during the 
day, and even less predictable hazards) cause me some concern especially when 
going fast on two direction roads.  I've had the thought of routing a 
switchable valve to the exhaust with a tank for waste oil.  I figure the big cloud 
and spots on their widshield might make people consider backing off a little.  
Your description of routing crankcase to exhaust made my gears turn on that 
idea, maybe design a combo.  Is there an additive to add a little noxious smell 
to the situation?
Andrew 
From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 19 16:50:04 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 19 16:50:04 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints  
Message-ID: <000a01c4264f$c02a8360$33ed7240@svend>

  Lots less stress.  I haven't tried that yet but seems like it 
makes sense.  Later on.

Doug Ferguson


Worth looking in to ---- say I.

Hagar.
From ethan at forward.ca  Mon Apr 19 16:50:17 2004
From: ethan at forward.ca (Ethan Vos)
Date: Mon Apr 19 16:50:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints  chromed  ? --- ( yeah surpriced me too
 )
In-Reply-To: <000a01c4264e$2b6413a0$33ed7240@svend>
References: <000a01c4264e$2b6413a0$33ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <40843B7F.4060105@forward.ca>

There is an interference fit between the balls and the cage. At least 
that's the way they're built. They don't need it though. An old racer's 
trick is to open the window slightly to reduce friction.

The galling on these joints is normal.



H.Hagar wrote:
> I was cleaning up some outer joints  ---- the splined part.
> 
> And blasting is a good way to identify metals.   If someone gives me
> a shaft , and say "is this really titanium?"    I say give me a minute
> and one little blast in the blasting booth with the lights off , will tell.
> Nothing looks like the sparks coming off Titanium or Chrome other than
> that.
> 
> Titanium is very white. And  chrome is easy to recognize.
> 
> So "WHAT" ?   was chromed ---was it the spline ? or what.
> 
> For safety replace joints in doubt , if wife or girlfriend is using the VW. Remember
> control of vehicle at high speed may be involved.
> 
> Personally I would stake my life on Gavriks joints if his description is accurate.
> 
> The main trouble with joints is lack of maintenance , not a bad design.  Rust and
> lack of lube.  I use real screwclamps holding the rubber booth on   ---way better
> than ty-raps and the originals.
> 
> It was said here that the splines do not rust ----well mine did.
> 
> So coat the spline in LOTS of  Neversneeze. Marine grade  it got Zinc.
> 
> Chrome is used in other  front Joints. Like Landrovers.
> 
> I think balls are installed with preload. --- So it takes a long time to detect backlash.
> 
> Put shaft in vice and really twist joint to check for slack.And you will soon learn what
> is a bad joint.
> 
> Them other "Joints" ?   I know nothing about.  ----and do not need to know.
> 
> Keep your boots in good shape . And the clamps tight.
> 
> Hagar.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 19 17:15:30 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 19 17:15:31 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV  --- (smoking a tailgater) 
Message-ID: <000a01c42653$4e0e0820$54ed7240@svend>

Andrew --- simple as anything.     Inject lubeoil  about say the 90 below
exhaust manifold.    I guarantee that if you do it right  , the tailgater wont be able to see where they are going for a while.

Val Christian can verify that I am right  -----that is how the smoke system works on
aircraft at the airshow.

But wont that risk a ticket ?   ---if the car behind is a copper ?.

Hagar.

Is there an additive to add a little noxious smell 
to the situation?
Andrew 

Hows about Skunk oil ?

Ah shit the oil on the windshield will do the trick.
From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Mon Apr 19 17:23:10 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Mon Apr 19 17:23:11 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints  chromed  ? --- ( yeah surpriced me too )
In-Reply-To: <000a01c4264e$2b6413a0$33ed7240@svend>
References: <000a01c4264e$2b6413a0$33ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <3ge88091al989klau689tb084s8ffnsnvu@4ax.com>

>I use real screwclamps holding the rubber booth on   ---way better
>than ty-raps and the originals.

>Keep your boots in good shape . And the clamps tight.

This makes me wonder.  I have always just used the standard metal boot
clamps.

I have my drivelines next to me on the floor.  The Red Line CV-2
Synthetic I used looks bright red when new.  After running in my
joints (inner and outer) it is no longer red but a dull brown.  It
still feels like the new stuff.

In places away from the joints where all the action is, the grease
still looks like new.  I am wondering if the color change is due to
the shear that the joint subjects the grease to or if some water gets
past the boots and effects the grease.


Gavrik Peterson

From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Mon Apr 19 17:23:16 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 17:23:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV  --- (smoking a tailgater) 
Message-ID: <163.2e68f49c.2db59d3c@wmconnect.com>

How about a dial switch and a variable valve?  Gradually turn it up until the 
desired affect is achieved.  Where do I get parts?
Andrew

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Mon Apr 19 17:40:29 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Mon Apr 19 17:40:29 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV --- (smoking a tailgater)   
Message-ID: <000c01c42656$c5081260$73ed7240@svend>

I may get in trouble for this ---    it is so simple.   Go to an Engineering Reuse site
and pick up a pump from a big us convertible.  I got mine for free.

A toggle switch a hank of wire and you are a smoking   Andrew.

I used Faxam 40 in my smoker  ---but there are better oils than that.

Hagar.
From LBaird119 at aol.com  Mon Apr 19 18:20:13 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Mon Apr 19 18:20:14 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: PCV --- (smoking a tailgater)   
Message-ID: <dc.87092d4.2db5aa95@aol.com>

  How about a solenoid valve, a restrictor and just spray a tad of engine oil 

into the exhaust?  In the event a cop WOULD happen to pull you over ...
"Gee officer, I guess an injector must've stuck or something.  I'll get it 
looked at."  Most of them don't know the difference between a gas and 
a diesel other than what goes in the tank.
 Just don't use it too much without checking the oil level.
     Loren
From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Mon Apr 19 23:23:26 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Mon Apr 19 23:23:28 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Smoking
Message-ID: <200404200401.AAA19248@swamps.roc.ny.us>

> Andrew --- simple as anything.     Inject lubeoil  about say the 90 =
> below
> exhaust manifold.    I guarantee that if you do it right  , the =
> tailgater wont be able to see where they are going for a while.
> 
> Val Christian can verify that I am right  -----that is how the smoke =
> system works on
> aircraft at the airshow.

Just about any atomizer will work.  The airshow birds use a non-toxic 
veggie oil.  I suppose adding an odorant would help, and I like the
skunk oil approach, as long as your exhaust runs hot enough to 
purge residue.  Otherwise, it'll give your secret away.

I find it hard that a cop would really issue a ticket, especially if
you have that Alfred E. Newman "What me?" look on your face.

While inviting, an oil mist on the windshield could result in a serious
accident.  A little odor and smoke will just make it look like your
limburger Rabbit is overdoing the cheese.

BTW, one Waco I know will burn a full 55 gal drum of airshow oil in one
weekend.  I forget the capacity for one show, but I seem to recall that
the smoke on burn rate is almost as much as the full throttle gas
burn rate.  So I'd use diesel fuel, rather than motor oil.  If you're
burning fryer oil, perhaps you can get some really fishy stuff to 
inject.  

30 psi to 90 psi for the injectors is pretty standard.  It IS amazing 
how much smoke one can really make!


Val






> 
> But wont that risk a ticket ?   ---if the car behind is a copper ?.
> 
> Hagar.
> 
> Is there an additive to add a little noxious smell=20
> to the situation?
> Andrew=20
> 
> Hows about Skunk oil ?
> 
> Ah shit the oil on the windshield will do the trick.
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr 20 10:23:42 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr 20 10:24:05 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Ticking sound  in the west  --(  two tickers out here )
Message-ID: <000201c426e2$f0fb9360$46ed7240@svend>



What are the signs of advancing timing too far?

--
Shawn Wright


IMHO   IMHO   IMHO --------  Leaking cylinderhead ---- When cold spray with
mixture of dish liquid and water.   Then start . Them bubbles sure works for me.

Heatshields  test ?  soap and water.

I have a ticker here  ---runs fine  but one headbolt is broken  V8 GM.

Exhaust pipe pressure is not high enough to make sharp tick.

Signs of injection too advanced ?   ---read archives.

Hagar.
From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Tue Apr 20 11:32:12 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Tue Apr 20 11:32:13 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808675@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

Thanks Bruce~
I'm just to the point of doing my own maintenance on my TDI.  The
stealership is giving me real heartburn here in Twin Falls Idaho!
Anyway, the information you provide is very helpful.  I will pursue an
outlet for the Delvac-1 5w40.  
For my old Rabbit 1.6Lna engines do you have a recommendation for oil?
I know that Hagar doesn't believe in synthetic oils, Texas TDI presses
for the value of synthetic.  I think that the sythetic oil is the way to
go but it sounds like Castrol Syntec is not good stuff!  Why in the
world would the VW dealerships be using it???

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Brier [mailto:DrDotgain@cox.net] 
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 3:44 PM
To: Chuck Carnohan; vwdiesel@vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW
505.01


Hi Chuck,

I go to a WalMart in Seekonk, MA and the Syntec has none of the
designations in the owner's manual, just a bunch of ILSAC nubers which
are irrelevant to TDIs. Best thing I found there for TDI is Shell
Rotella T full synthetic (blue jug 1 gal for about $12.88) which carries
API Service CG-4

The 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies...
     ACEA B3
     ACEA B4
     API CF-4
     API CG-4 
I would assume API CH-4 and API CI-4 would be OK too, but they hadn't
been invented at the time of printing, 2000). It mentions also
     VW 502.00
     VW 500.00
     VW 501.01

It's not entirely clear to me that the Syntec oil sold at the VW dealer
exactly meets what the 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies. The Syntec
from the VW dealership costs $6.60 per qt and up... it is 5w40 viscosity
and the fine print... 

     API Service SJ/CF
     ACEA: A3, B4/98
     Also exceed the world's toughest
     engine protection requirements
     including Volkswagen's 502.00 and 505.00

So the manual does not mention ACEA A3 or ACEA B4/98 and API CF is not
the same as CF-4. Folks at Fred's are highly critical of the
dealership's Syntec all the time... they say it's not true synthetic and
doesn't have the top additives in the business... they predict long-term
problems clogging the intake runners, and they caution that the turbo
needs to cool down for 60 seconds before shutting down the engine when
the turbo is hot... like when you are late for the dentist on a summer
afternoon, you get there with a screaming hot turbo, but you have to
wait 60 seconds to go in. If you shut it down like that, the turbo
bearings cook the oil, because it isn't getting replenished with fresh
circulated oil from the sump.  Both problems are alleviated to a degree
by Mobil Delvac-1 (you can buy from AVLUBE.COM $85 + $16 shipping per 4
gallons). If you have a Freightliner dealer near you, then try to get
Delvac-1 5w40 there and save $16 on shipping. Note that Mobil-1 is not
Delvac-1, and stay away from Delvac 1300 (available from your Mobil
truckstop).. it is not a synthetic oil.

Some folks at Fred's prefer Amsoil Series 3000 even though it is only
5w30.

I no longer use the dealer Syntec, which in my car evaporates into the
intake manifold at a rate of 1/4 qt per 2,000 miles. Nor do I use
Rotella T, with an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 3,000 miles. I am using the
Delvac-1, with an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 5,000 miles. I change it at
10,000 miles. Oil analyses (from others on Fred's forum) indicates
10,000 miles is not even close to the limit for Delvac-1, and they say
(but I do not recommend) 15,000 miles between oil changes.

I also found some listing on the Mobil website for Mobil-1 in viscosity
0w40 that carries VW 502.00 but do not know anything more on that.

Best place on the web for oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, cabin
pollen filter is VWPARTS.COM bundled price $46. You deposit $46 into a
PayPal account and Dan will ship it to you within three days.

I implore you to confirm the fine print on the back of the Syntec 5w40
bottle at WalMart before you buy it. There's no pressing need to email
me, since I won't be putting it in my car even if it is $3 per qt.

Bruce Brier

> From: Bruce Brier <DrDotgain@cox.net>
> Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:34:49 -0400
> To: Chuck Carnohan <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>, <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 
> 505.01
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> You had better make sure the WalMart Castrol Syntec meets the minimum 
> standards in your owners manual. My experience has been that the 
> 505.00 (or 505.01 spec for PD engines) that is met by the special 
> Castrol Syntec they sell at VW ($7) is _not_ met by the Syntec sold at

> regular stores. (Do they even have the 5w40 spec?) Some brands such as

> Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 (blue bottle) meet CH-4 which is fine 
> for my 2000 TDI. However the Mobil Delvac-1 and the Amsoil synthetic 
> are considered the first and second choices (or the second and first 
> choices) by the lube-geniuses at Fred's TDICLUB site. Regarding the 
> 10,000 mile interval, don't worry; be happy. But do check that there 
> isn't a time limit ... I don't remember if there is a time limit 
> because I hit 10,000 every 4 months.
> 
> Dr. Dotgain
> 
>> From: "Chuck Carnohan" <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>
>> Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:46:47 -0700
>> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
>> Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
>> 
>> Castrol Syntec is what the dealership here in Idaho uses.  It is 
>> available at Walmart.  My maintenance schedule for a '03 Golf TDI 
>> shows 5K mile intervals for the first 10K miles then it drops back to

>> once every 10K miles.  I was misled by the manual until my wife 
>> pointed it out!  It's hard for me to accept an oil change at 10K!  
>> Kinda scary.
>> 
>> Chuck Carnohan
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From HWY9FERGS at cs.com  Tue Apr 20 11:34:42 2004
From: HWY9FERGS at cs.com (HWY9FERGS@cs.com)
Date: Tue Apr 20 11:34:44 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV axle problems
Message-ID: <9b.46b9167b.2db69d09@cs.com>

Hi again, 

>Hi all, One idea on getting the most out of your joints is to swap them 
>over 
>to the other side. The worn surfaces will only be loaded during 
>deceleration 
>and in reverse. Lots less stress. I haven't tried that yet but seems like 
>it 
>makes sense. Later on. Doug
>

>>The problem I see with this is that you'll put a sudden load on things 
>>as the ball rolls across the previously worn grove. This could break 
>>the cage, the weakest part of the joint. When that cage goes there's a 
>>crunch and then free wheeling. It may only clunk or clack as well.
>>Loren


 Thanks for your input, Loren.  This idea came from a guy who used to work at 
a VW dealership and it was his idea to swap them around. It has merit. I 
guess the real question is how bad do the symptoms need to be before one takes 
action.  If you have REALLY badly worn cages, you would be seeing those severe 
kinds of symptoms already during deceleration, and of course you'd want to 
change them out if you're getting clunking or clacking. However, if you are just 
starting to notice a lack of smoothness in the driveline or other relatively 
minor problems, this might be well worth trying. I can't imagine someone driving 
on bad joints long enough to where the cage explodes, but I suppose there are 
people out there that clueless.  For my own self, if I'm going to the trouble 
of removing them, it's worth it to me to put on new ones, so I hopefully won't 
have to think about them again for a long time.  Take care, Doug
From CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us  Tue Apr 20 12:04:33 2004
From: CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us (Chuck Carnohan)
Date: Tue Apr 20 12:04:34 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV joints  chromed  ? --- ( yeah surpriced me too )
Message-ID: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808676@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>

Another suggestion for CV boot care that I read and use is to clean and
spray the boots with silicone spray at every oil change.  This helps to
keep the rubber supple.  Another option would be to grease the boots
with silicon grease but the grease attracts dirt and dust.  I would
think this to be a bad thing as the dirt and dust on a boot is one of
the elements of boot failure.  The grit cuts through the boots (does the
same thing to leather shoes where they flex).  The spray dries
immediately and does provide some essential nutrients to the rubber
boot.

Chuck

-----Original Message-----
From: Gavrik Peterson [mailto:gavrik@cablespeed.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 3:23 PM
To: vwdiesel@audifans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] CV joints chromed ? --- ( yeah surpriced me too
)


>I use real screwclamps holding the rubber booth on   ---way better
>than ty-raps and the originals.

>Keep your boots in good shape . And the clamps tight.

This makes me wonder.  I have always just used the standard metal boot
clamps.

I have my drivelines next to me on the floor.  The Red Line CV-2
Synthetic I used looks bright red when new.  After running in my joints
(inner and outer) it is no longer red but a dull brown.  It still feels
like the new stuff.

In places away from the joints where all the action is, the grease still
looks like new.  I am wondering if the color change is due to the shear
that the joint subjects the grease to or if some water gets past the
boots and effects the grease.


Gavrik Peterson

_______________________________________________
Vwdiesel mailing list
Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr 20 12:56:11 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr 20 12:56:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] turbo boost & compression ratios
Message-ID: <20040420165604.GA17677@cybershamanix.com>

   Does anyone know of a formula for figuring out how much a turbo raises
compression ratios? 


-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr 20 13:16:46 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr 20 13:17:00 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Lube Oil for old Rabbits ---- ( use DINO )
Message-ID: <001b01c426fb$1d0db1a0$17ed7240@svend>

I know that Hagar doesn't believe in synthetic oils, ----  ??????    wrong.

I have been exposed to synthetic oils since 1945.    In some applications
they are good ---in some applications ----no good.

In general they do not burn well ------ and leave a lot of ASH in combustion
chamber and Exhaust.

I have done like Val Christian for many years   ----use Dino and change often.
That way we get rid of contaminants like water , acid, soot, and fuel dilution.

One reason old Rabbits take off --like berserk is lots of diesel in lube.

Matter of money and sense.  Never have I had a failure from lack of lubrication
using DINO. oil.

Old Rabbits burn lube ---- so it make sense to use a lube that is ashless like
Aviation lube.(Piston engine)  ---- too expensive  --- so do like Val and I, use
really cheap Dino ----  

Yes I do at times use AV oil ----but only because I have a lot of time expired
stock sitting that got to go.

Line up a line of Blue beercaps ---- fill them with different oils and a wick. You will
be able to see how well they burn.  Same goes for fuel samples.  Cracked diesel
is awful.

Paraffin crude makes for good fuel and lube. Good paraffin crude is hard to get these
days ---- so refiners have to use Asphalt.  And a lot of cracking.

Do I like Crissy from Tyler Texas ???? yeah ---just wish he would not push his oil
so hard here.
He is a valuable  contributor here and I have received a lot of help from him. And he
may still have a connection to the refiner down there .  I have a good relation with
the Esso Refinery at Sarnia Canada.   They are great as far as customer service is concerned.
But I have no commercial reason for mentioning Esso lubricants.

At one time Shell was top of the heap here -----they had better crude than anybody
else.

I have all the papers for becoming a dealer for scamszoil ----and I read the fine print.
Not likely to happen.

I know nothing about the oil  --- but one hell of a lot about the advertising and the
flogging system.

Hagar.     ----   well oiled.
From r.c.brown at ieee.org  Tue Apr 20 13:59:48 2004
From: r.c.brown at ieee.org (Roger Brown)
Date: Tue Apr 20 13:59:49 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] turbo boost & compression ratios
References: <20040420165604.GA17677@cybershamanix.com>
Message-ID: <40856511.8D6F2469@ieee.org>

Harmon Seaver wrote:
> 
>    Does anyone know of a formula for figuring out how much a turbo raises
> compression ratios?

Compression ratio of the engine doesn't change when adding a turbo.  You are changing the pressure (or density or amount) of the intake air by the amount of boost that the turbo gives.  That increased pressure is essentially magnified by the existing
compression ratio to give you a higher combustion pressure.  Here's a few interesting pages from a Google search of the subject:
	http://www.teknett.com/pwp/drmayf/comprato.htm
	http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/pressure_ratio.php

-- 
   Roger
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr 20 14:15:43 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr 20 14:15:45 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] turbo boost & compression ratios
In-Reply-To: <40856511.8D6F2469@ieee.org>
References: <20040420165604.GA17677@cybershamanix.com>
	<40856511.8D6F2469@ieee.org>
Message-ID: <20040420181541.GB17817@cybershamanix.com>

   Ahh, cool, thanks. Yes, I mispoke -- I know it doesn't change the real engine
compression ratio, but the end effect is the same. 


On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 10:59:45AM -0700, Roger Brown wrote:
> Harmon Seaver wrote:
> > 
> >    Does anyone know of a formula for figuring out how much a turbo raises
> > compression ratios?
> 
> Compression ratio of the engine doesn't change when adding a turbo.  You are changing the pressure (or density or amount) of the intake air by the amount of boost that the turbo gives.  That increased pressure is essentially magnified by the existing
> compression ratio to give you a higher combustion pressure.  Here's a few interesting pages from a Google search of the subject:
> 	http://www.teknett.com/pwp/drmayf/comprato.htm
> 	http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/pressure_ratio.php
> 
> -- 
>    Roger
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From LBaird119 at aol.com  Tue Apr 20 15:19:44 2004
From: LBaird119 at aol.com (LBaird119@aol.com)
Date: Tue Apr 20 15:19:45 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Lube Oil for old Rabbits ---- ( use DINO )
Message-ID: <1e2.1e48874e.2db6d1c2@aol.com>

In general they do not burn well ------ and leave a lot of ASH in combustion
chamber and Exhaust.


  Granted it's an assumption on my part but I always figured there was 
MUCH less ash and carbon with synthetic oil.  As you go up in quiality 
of dino oil, you get much less ambering, coking, and so on.  I know a 
guy who used synthetic to clean up an engine that was burning a lot of 
oil.  Apparently it was able to free up the rings without adding to the 
problem until the rings were free.  Then he switched back, no big oil 
consumption.

> One reason old Rabbits take off --like berserk is lots of diesel in lube.


  Don't think I've ever seen a diesel with diluted oil.  You'll burn a hole 
in the 
piston before you dilute the oil too much.  Unless you're running with a 
near zero compression cylinder.  Still not likely to dilute like a gasser 
with a dead plug.

> 
> Old Rabbits burn lube ---- so it make sense to use a lube that is ashless 
> like
> Aviation lube.(Piston engine)  ---- too expensive  --- so do like Val and I, 
> use
> really cheap Dino ----  

  Scuse me but that's one of the dumbest things I've heard recommended 
here.  Really cheap dino will crap up a gas engine nearly as well as 
corn syrup would.  Good way to destroy a diesel.  If you refer to using 
the cheapest diesel grade oil, then that's not really cheap dino.  It's still 

some of the best dino oil you can buy.
  I tore down a Cadillac that used cheap oil, changed regularly.  There were 
SHEETS of carbon in that engine.

> Do I like Crissy from Tyler Texas ???? yeah ---just wish he would not push 
> his oil
> so hard here.


  I'll open my mouth again here.  I've never seen him push nor prod his oil.  

He's reffered to it, and probably mentioned it less than I have!  So, it's in 

his sig. Big deal.  That's part of his description of him and most of us 
probably don't read the sigs regularly. roger touts his site regularly, he 
sells products there,  and I think we all appreciate it.  :)

> 
> I have all the papers for becoming a dealer for scamszoil ----and I read the 
> fine print.
> Not likely to happen.
> 
> I know nothing about the oil  --- but one hell of a lot about the 
> advertising and the
> flogging system.
> 

  Hmmm, I signed up for one type of their dealership/distributorship/user 
and there's no fine print, no minimums, no maximums no strings.  I just 
get a good price when I need it, either from the local dealer or drop 
shipped.
I don't even get updates on products nearly as often as I thought and would 
like.
     Loren
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 20 16:50:28 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 20 16:50:29 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
In-Reply-To: <1AA7FA919E0CF74DA0E02A4507D1B305808675@ITDEVS01.itd.state.id.us>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAEIHEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Gosh, could it be that the dealers would do something that would generate
more long term maintenance revenue? No, not the good honest gutter crawling
corporate entity that is the auto manufacturer we all know and love as
Volkswagen?  Not from the same dark hole that spawned exhaust gas
recirculation on tdi's? Or a single passenger side motor mount smack in the
middle of the T-belt?  Tell me it ain't so!
-James
(developing a terminal case of tongue in cheek...)

> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of Chuck Carnohan
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:32 AM
> To: Bruce Brier; vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW
> 505.01
>
>
> Thanks Bruce~
> I'm just to the point of doing my own maintenance on my TDI.  The
> stealership is giving me real heartburn here in Twin Falls Idaho!
> Anyway, the information you provide is very helpful.  I will pursue an
> outlet for the Delvac-1 5w40.
> For my old Rabbit 1.6Lna engines do you have a recommendation for oil?
> I know that Hagar doesn't believe in synthetic oils, Texas TDI presses
> for the value of synthetic.  I think that the sythetic oil is the way to
> go but it sounds like Castrol Syntec is not good stuff!  Why in the
> world would the VW dealerships be using it???
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Brier [mailto:DrDotgain@cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 3:44 PM
> To: Chuck Carnohan; vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW
> 505.01
>
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
> I go to a WalMart in Seekonk, MA and the Syntec has none of the
> designations in the owner's manual, just a bunch of ILSAC nubers which
> are irrelevant to TDIs. Best thing I found there for TDI is Shell
> Rotella T full synthetic (blue jug 1 gal for about $12.88) which carries
> API Service CG-4
>
> The 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies...
>      ACEA B3
>      ACEA B4
>      API CF-4
>      API CG-4
> I would assume API CH-4 and API CI-4 would be OK too, but they hadn't
> been invented at the time of printing, 2000). It mentions also
>      VW 502.00
>      VW 500.00
>      VW 501.01
>
> It's not entirely clear to me that the Syntec oil sold at the VW dealer
> exactly meets what the 2000 TDI owner's manual specifies. The Syntec
> from the VW dealership costs $6.60 per qt and up... it is 5w40 viscosity
> and the fine print...
>
>      API Service SJ/CF
>      ACEA: A3, B4/98
>      Also exceed the world's toughest
>      engine protection requirements
>      including Volkswagen's 502.00 and 505.00
>
> So the manual does not mention ACEA A3 or ACEA B4/98 and API CF is not
> the same as CF-4. Folks at Fred's are highly critical of the
> dealership's Syntec all the time... they say it's not true synthetic and
> doesn't have the top additives in the business... they predict long-term
> problems clogging the intake runners, and they caution that the turbo
> needs to cool down for 60 seconds before shutting down the engine when
> the turbo is hot... like when you are late for the dentist on a summer
> afternoon, you get there with a screaming hot turbo, but you have to
> wait 60 seconds to go in. If you shut it down like that, the turbo
> bearings cook the oil, because it isn't getting replenished with fresh
> circulated oil from the sump.  Both problems are alleviated to a degree
> by Mobil Delvac-1 (you can buy from AVLUBE.COM $85 + $16 shipping per 4
> gallons). If you have a Freightliner dealer near you, then try to get
> Delvac-1 5w40 there and save $16 on shipping. Note that Mobil-1 is not
> Delvac-1, and stay away from Delvac 1300 (available from your Mobil
> truckstop).. it is not a synthetic oil.
>
> Some folks at Fred's prefer Amsoil Series 3000 even though it is only
> 5w30.
>
> I no longer use the dealer Syntec, which in my car evaporates into the
> intake manifold at a rate of 1/4 qt per 2,000 miles. Nor do I use
> Rotella T, with an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 3,000 miles. I am using the
> Delvac-1, with an evap rate of 1/4 qt per 5,000 miles. I change it at
> 10,000 miles. Oil analyses (from others on Fred's forum) indicates
> 10,000 miles is not even close to the limit for Delvac-1, and they say
> (but I do not recommend) 15,000 miles between oil changes.
>
> I also found some listing on the Mobil website for Mobil-1 in viscosity
> 0w40 that carries VW 502.00 but do not know anything more on that.
>
> Best place on the web for oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, cabin
> pollen filter is VWPARTS.COM bundled price $46. You deposit $46 into a
> PayPal account and Dan will ship it to you within three days.
>
> I implore you to confirm the fine print on the back of the Syntec 5w40
> bottle at WalMart before you buy it. There's no pressing need to email
> me, since I won't be putting it in my car even if it is $3 per qt.
>
> Bruce Brier
>
> > From: Bruce Brier <DrDotgain@cox.net>
> > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 20:34:49 -0400
> > To: Chuck Carnohan <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>, <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW
> > 505.01
> >
> > Chuck,
> >
> > You had better make sure the WalMart Castrol Syntec meets the minimum
> > standards in your owners manual. My experience has been that the
> > 505.00 (or 505.01 spec for PD engines) that is met by the special
> > Castrol Syntec they sell at VW ($7) is _not_ met by the Syntec sold at
>
> > regular stores. (Do they even have the 5w40 spec?) Some brands such as
>
> > Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 (blue bottle) meet CH-4 which is fine
> > for my 2000 TDI. However the Mobil Delvac-1 and the Amsoil synthetic
> > are considered the first and second choices (or the second and first
> > choices) by the lube-geniuses at Fred's TDICLUB site. Regarding the
> > 10,000 mile interval, don't worry; be happy. But do check that there
> > isn't a time limit ... I don't remember if there is a time limit
> > because I hit 10,000 every 4 months.
> >
> > Dr. Dotgain
> >
> >> From: "Chuck Carnohan" <CCarnoha@itd.state.id.us>
> >> Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 11:46:47 -0700
> >> To: <vwdiesel@vwfans.com>
> >> Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
> >>
> >> Castrol Syntec is what the dealership here in Idaho uses.  It is
> >> available at Walmart.  My maintenance schedule for a '03 Golf TDI
> >> shows 5K mile intervals for the first 10K miles then it drops back to
>
> >> once every 10K miles.  I was misled by the manual until my wife
> >> pointed it out!  It's hard for me to accept an oil change at 10K!
> >> Kinda scary.
> >>
> >> Chuck Carnohan
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Vwdiesel mailing list
> >> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 20 17:01:40 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 20 17:01:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV axle problems
In-Reply-To: <9b.46b9167b.2db69d09@cs.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOEEIIEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Well.... I have to chime in here.
The reason joints go bad is due to lack of maintenance. An occasional clean
and repack will go a long way to maintaining the life of the joint, in any
circumstance, so every couplea years, remove, clean, repack, and they will
last a really long time.  You get to check the boots as well at that time.
I changed ONE outboard joint on my Jetta over the time I had it- sold just
the other day with 545 thou km on the clock.  Grease has a finite lifespan,
and when it's worn out, it ceases to provide sufficient lubrication and
cooling... then the joint wears and starts to get noisy.  Even then, when it
first has symptoms and clicks or you feel a shimmy in the wheel on turns,
you can usually clean and repack it, and keep on running it.  They are
amazingly strong, and properly looked after should last a very long time.
Either a synthetic grease or a moly microgel is much preferred over the
standard clay based grease.  If you pull the boot off, and see the grease
well away from a dry joint, it is generally a poor grade of grease that has
been use, OR it is really old and the lighter components of the grease are
long gone.
Rather than reversing the joints, just cleaning and repacking would make an
immense improvement over just waiting for them to go bad so you can replace
them.
-James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of HWY9FERGS@cs.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:35 AM
> To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV axle problems
>
>
> Hi again,
>
> >Hi all, One idea on getting the most out of your joints is to swap them
> >over
> >to the other side. The worn surfaces will only be loaded during
> >deceleration
> >and in reverse. Lots less stress. I haven't tried that yet but
> seems like
> >it
> >makes sense. Later on. Doug
> >
>
> >>The problem I see with this is that you'll put a sudden load on things
> >>as the ball rolls across the previously worn grove. This could break
> >>the cage, the weakest part of the joint. When that cage goes there's a
> >>crunch and then free wheeling. It may only clunk or clack as well.
> >>Loren
>
>
>  Thanks for your input, Loren.  This idea came from a guy who
> used to work at
> a VW dealership and it was his idea to swap them around. It has merit. I
> guess the real question is how bad do the symptoms need to be
> before one takes
> action.  If you have REALLY badly worn cages, you would be seeing
> those severe
> kinds of symptoms already during deceleration, and of course
> you'd want to
> change them out if you're getting clunking or clacking. However,
> if you are just
> starting to notice a lack of smoothness in the driveline or other
> relatively
> minor problems, this might be well worth trying. I can't imagine
> someone driving
> on bad joints long enough to where the cage explodes, but I
> suppose there are
> people out there that clueless.  For my own self, if I'm going to
> the trouble
> of removing them, it's worth it to me to put on new ones, so I
> hopefully won't
> have to think about them again for a long time.  Take care, Doug
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Tue Apr 20 17:13:07 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Tue Apr 20 17:13:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Ticking sound in the west --( two tickers out here )
In-Reply-To: <000201c426e2$f0fb9360$46ed7240@svend>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOCEIJEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Uh, beg to differ Hagar.
On a turbo engine it sure is.  BTDT.
On acceleration, it sounds like a danish elf under the hood with a good
sized hammer beating the life out of the valvecover- a tinny sort of sound,
unlike a bad lifter.  At idle, the hammer is a tiny one, but still there.
Haven't had it to me happen on an NA engine, but if the muffler was carboned
up enough to raise the pressure, it might be enough.
Manifold leak corresponded to the use of synthetic oil- the slippery stuff
must have got into the threads (tiny valve cover leak) and done it's make it
slippery thing. the nuts would just loosen off, needing occasional
retightening, and a couple were studs that just refused to stay tight.
Never had this on a dino oil engine. New lock nuts on the loose nuts, same
deal.
Damn synthetic oil literally crawls out of the container and coats the sides
of the jug. Good stuff that, but a bit challenging to keep in an old engine
at times.
-James

> Exhaust pipe pressure is not high enough to make sharp tick.

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From dennis at pantazis.org  Tue Apr 20 17:25:02 2004
From: dennis at pantazis.org (Dennis Pantazis)
Date: Tue Apr 20 17:25:04 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: New oil standards for TDI PD motor, VW 505.01
References: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAEIHEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c4271d$efc44a10$2801a8c0@athena>

folks-

this has been beat to death a few times on fred's pages. have a look over
there to get the blow by blows.
www.tdiclub.com dicussions have gone back to last spring/summer.

at the risk of starting yet another oil discussion here are some of the
highlights (i am trying to do this objectionably)

1. 505.01 is required oil to maintain warantee compliance. it's that simple.
there is STRONG language like "you must use oil expressly conforming to
505.01..or your engine WILL suffer serious damage and it will NOT be
covered"

2. sources for 505.01 is the dealer and motul. others hopefully in the
future.

3. 505.01 is also spec'd for phaeton gasser and toureg gasser.

4. castrol 505.01 from dealer is a group 3, not group 4 synthetic. as i
understand it, it is a synthetic made from a blend of dino and synthetic
constituents, not 100% synthetic. it is a synthetic oil.

5. speculation that other oil favorites, (delvac, rotella, mobil) will
propably pass the 505.01 spec, but at this time, they have not had their oil
tested. those companies DO market a 505.01 oil in other countries other than
the us.

6. unverified/unconfirmed/unoffical news from europe is that PD's not using
the 505.01 oil have suffered damage to the pistons and connecting rods.
other areas of concern are the rockers that actuate the injectors.

7. cost- oil cost from dealer is about $7/liter. (i had dealer do my 5000
mile oil change today and it cost $55). before you get worked up on the
higher cost per liter, oil change interval hereafter is 10,000.

as far as another revenue stream on the oil- i don't think so. each dealer
buys their bulk oil from castrol distributor directly. they make more on
vehicle accesories.

dennis

dennis

From h_hagar at prcn.org  Tue Apr 20 17:37:32 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Tue Apr 20 17:37:34 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Lube Oil for old Rabbits ---- ( use DINO ) --- underline
	OLD.
Message-ID: <000201c4271f$891a7b20$88ed7240@svend>

Loren and all ---- maybe my goofy writing style is at fault here.

This is first hand experience.     In a lots of blow-by Rabbits ----lots of fuel
winds up downstairs.  Remember all the accounts of  "she is not using oil" ???
wrong ----it is being replaced by fuel.    I do believe Val Christian   ----is telling
it from personal experience. I also agree with him.  -----But read my threads in archives
and you will all see that I recommend using the best oil you can afford.   In any engine.

For the lucky owners of brand new VW's  I say use the best oil VW is approving.
And syn  may be it.

But because I am a left wing type , ---who cares for the less lucky -----when I write it is
economics I use as a baseline ----not ----the quality of oil  as a stand alone.

We used to have an outfit here called Douglas Re-Refiners ---- do I think RE-RE is ok ???
NO----because crude is cheap ---no way can they afford to make an equally good product.

If crude was 200 dollars pr barrel  it may work.   Economics again.

Economics of scale  ----   dictates Esso, Shell , Mobil   and so on.  They all have a test
sheet we can get hold of.   Read the fine print ---- selling oil with no API  approval ---using
the explanation that it cost a lot of money ??? ---- Ask VW about that one .

Val Christian has had Rabbits from day one so when he tells us something I listen.  Like the
rest of us he is not right all the time----- so what ??? .

Will I pick on someone because they are wrong ???   ---probably not.

Hagar bashing is ok with me ------   as long as you do not boot me out -----.

Hagar.
From gavrik at cablespeed.com  Tue Apr 20 17:44:10 2004
From: gavrik at cablespeed.com (Gavrik Peterson)
Date: Tue Apr 20 17:44:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV axle problems
In-Reply-To: <9b.46b9167b.2db69d09@cs.com>
References: <9b.46b9167b.2db69d09@cs.com>
Message-ID: <6u5b80tlgk76eeab9vq1sj2gjb7s982l7e@4ax.com>

Last night I finished disassembling and my drive shafts.

I noticed that the grease that was actually in the joints was way
thicker and less mobile then new grease.  Also, there was grease that
was on the inside of the boot that was thinner and more runny then new
grease.  It looks like some fluid component of the grease separated
out and left the joint and was thrown out toward the boot.

The stuff I used was Red Line CV-2 Synthetic.  I am wondering if the
Amsoil Synthetic grease holds up any better?  Any comments?

Gavrik


On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 11:34:33 EDT, you wrote:

>Hi again, 
>
>>Hi all, One idea on getting the most out of your joints is to swap them 
>>over 
>>to the other side. The worn surfaces will only be loaded during 
>>deceleration 
>>and in reverse. Lots less stress. I haven't tried that yet but seems like 
>>it 
>>makes sense. Later on. Doug
>>
>
>>>The problem I see with this is that you'll put a sudden load on things 
>>>as the ball rolls across the previously worn grove. This could break 
>>>the cage, the weakest part of the joint. When that cage goes there's a 
>>>crunch and then free wheeling. It may only clunk or clack as well.
>>>Loren
>
>
> Thanks for your input, Loren.  This idea came from a guy who used to work at 
>a VW dealership and it was his idea to swap them around. It has merit. I 
>guess the real question is how bad do the symptoms need to be before one takes 
>action.  If you have REALLY badly worn cages, you would be seeing those severe 
>kinds of symptoms already during deceleration, and of course you'd want to 
>change them out if you're getting clunking or clacking. However, if you are just 
>starting to notice a lack of smoothness in the driveline or other relatively 
>minor problems, this might be well worth trying. I can't imagine someone driving 
>on bad joints long enough to where the cage explodes, but I suppose there are 
>people out there that clueless.  For my own self, if I'm going to the trouble 
>of removing them, it's worth it to me to put on new ones, so I hopefully won't 
>have to think about them again for a long time.  Take care, Doug
>_______________________________________________
>Vwdiesel mailing list
>Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Tue Apr 20 20:57:39 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Tue Apr 20 20:57:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <000201c4271f$891a7b20$88ed7240@svend> from "H.Hagar" at Apr 20,
	2004 02:34:31 PM
Message-ID: <200404210136.VAA25340@swamps.roc.ny.us>

To clarify a few things...

> This is first hand experience.     In a lots of blow-by Rabbits ----lots =
> of fuel
> winds up downstairs.  Remember all the accounts of  "she is not using =
> oil" ???
> wrong ----it is being replaced by fuel.    I do believe Val Christian   =
> ----is telling
> it from personal experience. I also agree with him.  -----But read my =


	Generally the older 1.5 high blow-by Rabbits had the problem that 
	excessive oil splatter would collect in the intake manifold.
	It would get to a critical level, and then you had a mega 
	horsepower (the brakes WOULD NOT STOP IT) runaway car.

	There is a secondary issue in that usually a high miler would 
	also have incomplete atomization at the injectors, and drippy
	injectors, which would lead to crankcase oil dilution.  In many
	high mileage Rabbits I didn't see tons of this, although it 
	did exist.  

	The runaway engine was more of a oil-in-the-intake phenomenon.

	It is well documented that oil dilution is a common problem in 
	high time diesel engines.  


> Val Christian has had Rabbits from day one so when he tells us something =


	I think what Hagar is alluding to is my oil policy.  In general,
	I buy the best oil I think I can get for the early life of my 
	engines, and I tend to change more frequently than recommended.

	As my cars pass through 100Kmiles or 150Kmiles, I tend to use
	different oils.  There are diminishing returns on high end oil.

	Early in my ownership of diesels, it was easy to get reasonable
	oil at reasonable prices.  Probably around 84 or so, the CD and 
	SF ratings (I may have the exact timing and exact ratings wrong)
	became mutually exclusive. Consequently, cheap oil became more 
	difficult to get.  I simply started using SF or SG oil, in the
	same brands as I had used before.  I figured that things like 
	soot handling were not as critical when I changed oil at 2500 
	or 3000 mile intervals.  I had several Rabbits that I was the 
	original owner, and in general, they rusted out before the
	engines required anything more than a head rebuild and a 
	reringing. (never rebored a VW diesel) 

	Stated differently, over a 250K mile life (conservative), the
	"incorrect oil", changing oil at 2500 mile intervals, we're talking
	100 oil changes.  Using SF/SG/SH oil, I probably paid about 4 or 5
	bucks a change.  Let's say $500.  To upgrade the oil to a CD
	oil, we're talking an expenditure of about $1500.  $1000 difference.
	As near as I can tell, after comparing notes with many local 
	Rabbit and Mercedes owners, I get as good engine life as anyone 
	else.  Certainly good enough that the measurement error is 
	as great as any other obvious difference.

	In a high time engine, there are many benefits of frequent oil 
	changes.  Blowby contaminates the oil with soot, acids and other 
	by products.  Some of these contaminants are not effectively
	filtered, and are best controlled by swapping out the engine 
	oil.  Perhaps it's just a physchoogical thing, but I feel 
	better doing $5 oil changes, than $12 or $15 oil changes.
	
	In older cars, I tend to change the filter at 5K to 10Kmile
	intervals.  Depending upon the car, conditions, etc.

	Having said all that, in my 03 Jetta, I'm using Shell Rotella
	Synthetic, 5W-40, which is about $12.88 at Walmart.  I can 
	afford that, and the synthetic makes allot of sense with a 
	turbo, and the temperature cycles that the oil goes through.
	A case of VW filters is less than $6 each (wholesale) from the 
	dealer, so 03 Jetta oil changes are affordable.

	Hagar is right in that although there are scientific tools to 
	help us understand our oil, the actual practice and results
	of oil selection and maintenance are sometimes hard to 
	quantify, and appear as more of an art form.  

	Some group members have gone to conditional based oil changes,
	relying upon testing.  That's great.  Especially if you have
	a lab discount.  Some of us do a partial analysis using paper
	chromatography.  It might help to also get pH, particulate
	and soluable contaminants (like fuel).

	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know 
	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
	oil to get recycled.

	Val

From swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca  Tue Apr 20 21:18:46 2004
From: swright at zuiko.sls.bc.ca (Shawn Wright)
Date: Tue Apr 20 21:18:47 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <200404210136.VAA25340@swamps.roc.ny.us>
References: <000201c4271f$891a7b20$88ed7240@svend> from "H.Hagar" at Apr 20,
	2004 02:34:31 PM
Message-ID: <4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>

On 20 Apr 2004 at 21:36, Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:

> To clarify a few things...
> 

<snip interesting background on oil habits :-) >

> 	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know 
> 	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
> 	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
> 	oil to get recycled.

In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I still can't find my jug of 
chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in a rush, so...

Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than new chain oil can 
it?...

:-o

--
Shawn Wright
http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"

From hillsgrove at adelphia.net  Tue Apr 20 21:48:43 2004
From: hillsgrove at adelphia.net (Lee Hillsgrove)
Date: Tue Apr 20 21:48:45 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
References: <000201c4271f$891a7b20$88ed7240@svend> from "H.Hagar" at Apr 20,
	2004 02:34:31 PM <4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>
Message-ID: <004e01c42742$ae112320$6600a8c0@lee>

> > In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
> > where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
> > this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
> > oil to get recycled.


  :-))

 Some of the machines we make where I work burn waste motor oil as a fuel.
It has more BTUs per gallon than #2 fuel oil (140k Vs 150 - 160k) but
generates a lot of ash as a by-product of combustion.

 Me, I mostly use it to start brush piles. This weekend, we had a fire and
when it burnt down some I put a very old and rusty metal 2 1/2 gallon gas
can with a little oil in it on top of the coals. A very satisfying jet of
flame, maybe 10' worth, shot out of the spout after it was preheated
sufficiently, and persisted for some time. It was so fun I had to dig it out
and refill it once it had cooled down, this time full to the brim with oil.
Great fun!


  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI

From val at swamps.roc.ny.us  Tue Apr 20 22:07:40 2004
From: val at swamps.roc.ny.us (Val Christian)
Date: Tue Apr 20 22:07:41 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <004e01c42742$ae112320$6600a8c0@lee> from "Lee Hillsgrove" at Apr
	20, 2004 09:43:29 PM
Message-ID: <200404210247.WAA25812@swamps.roc.ny.us>

>  Me, I mostly use it to start brush piles. This weekend, we had a fire and
> when it burnt down some I put a very old and rusty metal 2 1/2 gallon gas
> can with a little oil in it on top of the coals. A very satisfying jet of
> flame, maybe 10' worth, shot out of the spout after it was preheated
> sufficiently, and persisted for some time. It was so fun I had to dig it out
> and refill it once it had cooled down, this time full to the brim with oil.
> Great fun!

Don't forget placing old oil in a small compressed gas cylinder, and adding
O2.  Somewhere above 800 pounds pressure, the oil ignites and exceeds
the containment strength of the cylinder.  Usually the tanks don't
shatter, they just look like they were bubble gum for some monster
blowing bubbles.  

Paper sandwich bags with O2 and acetylene are much safer fun.

Anyone into acetylene powered spudzookas?


From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Tue Apr 20 22:46:21 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Tue Apr 20 22:46:23 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV axle problems
Message-ID: <163.2e7a32eb.2db73a78@wmconnect.com>

A couple of years back I got a couple of "remanufactured" driveshafts from 
Checker with a lifetime warranty.  I had recently moved to AZ from Maine where 
there aren't any Checker stores.  In the past I had decent luck with reman 
driveshafts.  I didn't realize the mistake I was making.  I turned in my cores 
when I picked them up and didn't get to putting them on until the next day.  When 
I looked at them I couldnt belive what junk they were.  It looked like 
someone had freehanded a Makita on the cages, the balls were loose in the tracks, 
and not all wear and pitting was machined out of the grooves.  They were 
literally much worse than the ones I had turned in.  I returned them and got others 
ordered three times before giving up and buying new joints elsewhere.  I had 
avoided that in the first place just for the "convenience" of having them 
assembled.   One of the times they were ordered they even sent one that was a 
different legth than either of the others.  Hmmm.  I think that the lifetime 
warranty must guarantee that you will never get a decent driveshaft from them in your 
lifetime.  Checker, Shucks, Kragen- YIPES!!
Andrew
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Tue Apr 20 23:07:15 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Tue Apr 20 23:07:16 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>
References: <000201c4271f$891a7b20$88ed7240@svend>
	<4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>
Message-ID: <20040421030713.GB18378@cybershamanix.com>

On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 06:13:33PM -0700, Shawn Wright wrote:
> 
> In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I still can't find my jug of 
> chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in a rush, so...
> 
> Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than new chain oil can 
> it?...
> 

   The best chainsaw bar oil is canola. 


-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr 21 00:46:20 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr 21 00:46:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <20040421030713.GB18378@cybershamanix.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAEJKEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

Except in winterm, or in bear country.  It gets too stiff in winter.  Also,
canola oil smells like food to a bear.  Not being into spraying food smell
about while running a noisy engine wearing earmuffs and completely tuning
out except for what I'm doing...  mebbe in the bush country, the bottle of
juice from the friendly neighborhood Stihl dealer is still best.

-James (not a bear food kinda guy)


> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of Harmon Seaver
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:07 PM
> To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 06:13:33PM -0700, Shawn Wright wrote:
> >
> > In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I
> still can't find my jug of
> > chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in
> a rush, so...
> >
> > Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than
> new chain oil can
> > it?...
> >
>
>    The best chainsaw bar oil is canola.
>
>
> --
> Harmon Seaver
> CyberShamanix
> http://www.cybershamanix.com
> Hoka hey!
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
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From Libbybapa at wmconnect.com  Wed Apr 21 00:51:23 2004
From: Libbybapa at wmconnect.com (Libbybapa@wmconnect.com)
Date: Wed Apr 21 00:51:24 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] CV axle problems
Message-ID: <88.8e26bf5.2db757bf@wmconnect.com>

Definite agreement-Go new(learned the hard way).
From hseaver at cybershamanix.com  Wed Apr 21 01:33:55 2004
From: hseaver at cybershamanix.com (Harmon Seaver)
Date: Wed Apr 21 01:33:57 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAEJKEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
References: <20040421030713.GB18378@cybershamanix.com>
	<JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOAEJKEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>
Message-ID: <20040421053352.GA19063@cybershamanix.com>

   I don't know what kind of bears you got up there, but in Minnesota the bears
will eat your regular commercial bar oil, no problem. Also any cans or jugs of
engine oil sitting around, and even eat the hydraulic hoses off a skidder or
cat. When I was logging, I learned early on that I couldn't leave my gas and oil
jugs out on the job (I used to use two plastic gallon jugs, one for fuel, one
for bar oil, tied together so they were easy to carry) or I'd come to work to
find them full of bear tooth holes. One time I broke down with my crawler way
out in the woods, walked back, then road my Kawasaki dirt bike back with the
part I needed, so had to leave the bike there. Came back the next day to find a
bear had tried to eat the bike's plastic gas tank. 
    A guy I knew had a bear break in his cabin to get the food, so he quit
leaving food, even canned food in there when he was gone for awhile. So a bear
broke in and ate the grease trap off the sink. Heck, for that matter, not too
far away from us a bear grabbed a 14yr.old boy out camping with a couple of his
buddies and ate him. 



On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 10:46:14PM -0600, James Hansen wrote:
> Except in winterm, or in bear country.  It gets too stiff in winter.  Also,
> canola oil smells like food to a bear.  Not being into spraying food smell
> about while running a noisy engine wearing earmuffs and completely tuning
> out except for what I'm doing...  mebbe in the bush country, the bottle of
> juice from the friendly neighborhood Stihl dealer is still best.
> 
> -James (not a bear food kinda guy)
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> > Behalf Of Harmon Seaver
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:07 PM
> > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 06:13:33PM -0700, Shawn Wright wrote:
> > >
> > > In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I
> > still can't find my jug of
> > > chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in
> > a rush, so...
> > >
> > > Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than
> > new chain oil can
> > > it?...
> > >
> >
> >    The best chainsaw bar oil is canola.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Harmon Seaver
> > CyberShamanix
> > http://www.cybershamanix.com
> > Hoka hey!
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
> > ---
> > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004
> >
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel

-- 
Harmon Seaver	
CyberShamanix
http://www.cybershamanix.com
Hoka hey!

From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr 21 03:25:47 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr 21 03:25:48 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <20040421053352.GA19063@cybershamanix.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOOEJOEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

So What are their opinions of synthetic? Tried any taste tests?
Never had a bear eat a gas can, but one did eat the tailight off the trailer
we lived in up there. And yeah, a few jugs of delo had some tooth marks in
them, and lost a seat off the cat once.  Friend had a restaurant just out of
Dawson City, the griz would do anything to get at the canola oil. Anything.
Through walls, drums, you name it.  Only annoying little black bears that
you cuff out of the way where i live, but I spent many summers elsewhere
mining in the Yukon in Griz country. No cuffin them.
I would suspect the canola oil spray from the bar was on your clothes and
acted as an attractant to a degree, hence the gas tank, et al.
They hang streamers from the windows in Minnesota?  Seems to help.
-James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of Harmon Seaver
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 11:34 PM
> To: VW-Diesel List
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
>
>
>    I don't know what kind of bears you got up there, but in
> Minnesota the bears
> will eat your regular commercial bar oil, no problem. Also any
> cans or jugs of
> engine oil sitting around, and even eat the hydraulic hoses off a
> skidder or
> cat. When I was logging, I learned early on that I couldn't leave
> my gas and oil
> jugs out on the job (I used to use two plastic gallon jugs, one
> for fuel, one
> for bar oil, tied together so they were easy to carry) or I'd
> come to work to
> find them full of bear tooth holes. One time I broke down with my
> crawler way
> out in the woods, walked back, then road my Kawasaki dirt bike
> back with the
> part I needed, so had to leave the bike there. Came back the next
> day to find a
> bear had tried to eat the bike's plastic gas tank.
>     A guy I knew had a bear break in his cabin to get the food, so he quit
> leaving food, even canned food in there when he was gone for
> awhile. So a bear
> broke in and ate the grease trap off the sink. Heck, for that
> matter, not too
> far away from us a bear grabbed a 14yr.old boy out camping with a
> couple of his
> buddies and ate him.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 10:46:14PM -0600, James Hansen wrote:
> > Except in winterm, or in bear country.  It gets too stiff in
> winter.  Also,
> > canola oil smells like food to a bear.  Not being into spraying
> food smell
> > about while running a noisy engine wearing earmuffs and
> completely tuning
> > out except for what I'm doing...  mebbe in the bush country,
> the bottle of
> > juice from the friendly neighborhood Stihl dealer is still best.
> >
> > -James (not a bear food kinda guy)
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com
> [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> > > Behalf Of Harmon Seaver
> > > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2004 9:07 PM
> > > To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
> > >
> > >
> > > On Tue, Apr 20, 2004 at 06:13:33PM -0700, Shawn Wright wrote:
> > > >
> > > > In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I
> > > still can't find my jug of
> > > > chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in
> > > a rush, so...
> > > >
> > > > Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than
> > > new chain oil can
> > > > it?...
> > > >
> > >
> > >    The best chainsaw bar oil is canola.
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Harmon Seaver
> > > CyberShamanix
> > > http://www.cybershamanix.com
> > > Hoka hey!
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> > > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004
> > >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> > Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
> --
> Harmon Seaver
> CyberShamanix
> http://www.cybershamanix.com
> Hoka hey!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> ---
> Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.657 / Virus Database: 422 - Release Date: 04/13/2004
>
---
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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Wed Apr 21 09:48:11 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Wed Apr 21 09:48:12 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Injection pump VE ---(  nifty tricks ) 
Message-ID: <001101c427a7$22930a60$19ed7240@svend>

We now know how to test internal pressure ,  but what about output
pressure ???.

A friend of mine with a Volvo penta boat asked me if there was a way of testing.

So I started to analyze the situation ---here is what I came up with.

Mark Shepherd mentioned some maximum pressures long time ago  --but
for a test -- how far to go ???  10 000 psi ?  so not to bust the pump I decided
to be chickenshit  --- and use  2500 psi as a test.

I have not done it so far --so if you volks have nifty ways lets hear.

I am going to shim an old injector to   2500  and see if it works at crankspeed.
Outside engine of course.   If that works I am going to tell him that
IMHO IMHO his pump is ok.

And by the way Jeff Rakus   that is a good pump      107AG   I have all the numbers here
somewhere but I know Loren has them handy.     107A is fot a 1.5L NA  and 
107AG is for the 1.6L NA  .
Bosch had a number that I used for tech support --and they faxed me information.

Hagar.
From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 21 11:06:25 2004
From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich)
Date: Wed Apr 21 11:06:26 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
Message-ID: <SEA2-F62mWB1H3rWsWP00014224@hotmail.com>

I think one important point here that I can honestly comment on, any VW 
diesel would last too 200-250k miles with minimal maintenace and cheap oil, 
but having an engine last too 500k miles without rebuilding is common with 
synthetics and careful monitoring.  I have owned about 12, many were abused 
when I got them but still ran fine (all had over 200k). It is getting the 
engine to double that life that takes some special care and high quality 
lubes, especially when 5 months of the year have below freezing temps at 
night.
My fathers 300 SD td Mercedes went 300k miles on regular oil with regular 
changes (5k intervals), then we fixed any leaks and went to synthetic, now 
we run 10k intervals with a filter inbetween, the car has never been happier 
(now at 500k) and zero consumption/leaks. I have a harder time running my 
TDI that long cause the oil STINKS after 6-7k due to the EGR (and it is shut 
down as much as the computer allows).
I am not trying to stir up anyones anger, but I firmly believe if you want 
an engine to last (I mean LAST 500k+) you have to use the best (synthetic, 
group 4 diesel oil) especially in turbo applications and obviously take good 
care of the car so the rest is still around as long as the engine!
I would say most people are quite happy if their car passes 200k and then no 
longer care about, it has paid for itself and is no longer reliable in their 
view, I am the opposite, I find there is no reason a 500k VW is not 
reliable. I have never had any serious engine problems or failures in the 
ten years of VW diesels I have had, and over a million miles already between 
the four drivers in the family and 12 cars. No headgaskets even.
I have had to retire a couple due to rust (rusty when I got them, drove them 
till the drivers seat fell out!) but I still used syn oil etc cause the 
engine lives on in another car... Now I kinda wished I had kept them, they 
are getting rare all of a sudden, no more cheap transportation!
I do see Val's point about cost over lifetime, but what if the engine never 
wore out? I also fo three times the distance he does between changes, much 
less oil use and it kinda pays for itself then (the syn price difference). I 
have not installed any bypass oil filters yet, maybe this summer and then I 
will really extend the drain intervals!
Greg

I>Message: 6
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:36:15 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us>
>Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
>To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>Cc: "H .Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
>Message-ID: <200404210136.VAA25340@swamps.roc.ny.us>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>To clarify a few things...
>
> > This is first hand experience.     In a lots of blow-by Rabbits ----lots 
>=
> > of fuel
> > winds up downstairs.  Remember all the accounts of  "she is not using =
> > oil" ???
> > wrong ----it is being replaced by fuel.    I do believe Val Christian   
>=
> > ----is telling
> > it from personal experience. I also agree with him.  -----But read my =
>
>
>	Generally the older 1.5 high blow-by Rabbits had the problem that
>	excessive oil splatter would collect in the intake manifold.
>	It would get to a critical level, and then you had a mega
>	horsepower (the brakes WOULD NOT STOP IT) runaway car.
>
>	There is a secondary issue in that usually a high miler would
>	also have incomplete atomization at the injectors, and drippy
>	injectors, which would lead to crankcase oil dilution.  In many
>	high mileage Rabbits I didn't see tons of this, although it
>	did exist.
>
>	The runaway engine was more of a oil-in-the-intake phenomenon.
>
>	It is well documented that oil dilution is a common problem in
>	high time diesel engines.
>
>
> > Val Christian has had Rabbits from day one so when he tells us something 
>=
>
>
>	I think what Hagar is alluding to is my oil policy.  In general,
>	I buy the best oil I think I can get for the early life of my
>	engines, and I tend to change more frequently than recommended.
>
>	As my cars pass through 100Kmiles or 150Kmiles, I tend to use
>	different oils.  There are diminishing returns on high end oil.
>
>	Early in my ownership of diesels, it was easy to get reasonable
>	oil at reasonable prices.  Probably around 84 or so, the CD and
>	SF ratings (I may have the exact timing and exact ratings wrong)
>	became mutually exclusive. Consequently, cheap oil became more
>	difficult to get.  I simply started using SF or SG oil, in the
>	same brands as I had used before.  I figured that things like
>	soot handling were not as critical when I changed oil at 2500
>	or 3000 mile intervals.  I had several Rabbits that I was the
>	original owner, and in general, they rusted out before the
>	engines required anything more than a head rebuild and a
>	reringing. (never rebored a VW diesel)
>
>	Stated differently, over a 250K mile life (conservative), the
>	"incorrect oil", changing oil at 2500 mile intervals, we're talking
>	100 oil changes.  Using SF/SG/SH oil, I probably paid about 4 or 5
>	bucks a change.  Let's say $500.  To upgrade the oil to a CD
>	oil, we're talking an expenditure of about $1500.  $1000 difference.
>	As near as I can tell, after comparing notes with many local
>	Rabbit and Mercedes owners, I get as good engine life as anyone
>	else.  Certainly good enough that the measurement error is
>	as great as any other obvious difference.
>
>	In a high time engine, there are many benefits of frequent oil
>	changes.  Blowby contaminates the oil with soot, acids and other
>	by products.  Some of these contaminants are not effectively
>	filtered, and are best controlled by swapping out the engine
>	oil.  Perhaps it's just a physchoogical thing, but I feel
>	better doing $5 oil changes, than $12 or $15 oil changes.
>
>	In older cars, I tend to change the filter at 5K to 10Kmile
>	intervals.  Depending upon the car, conditions, etc.
>
>	Having said all that, in my 03 Jetta, I'm using Shell Rotella
>	Synthetic, 5W-40, which is about $12.88 at Walmart.  I can
>	afford that, and the synthetic makes allot of sense with a
>	turbo, and the temperature cycles that the oil goes through.
>	A case of VW filters is less than $6 each (wholesale) from the
>	dealer, so 03 Jetta oil changes are affordable.
>
>	Hagar is right in that although there are scientific tools to
>	help us understand our oil, the actual practice and results
>	of oil selection and maintenance are sometimes hard to
>	quantify, and appear as more of an art form.
>
>	Some group members have gone to conditional based oil changes,
>	relying upon testing.  That's great.  Especially if you have
>	a lab discount.  Some of us do a partial analysis using paper
>	chromatography.  It might help to also get pH, particulate
>	and soluable contaminants (like fuel).
>
>	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
>	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
>	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
>	oil to get recycled.
>
>	Val
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:13:33 -0700
>From: "Shawn Wright" <swright@zuiko.sls.bc.ca>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
>To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
>On 20 Apr 2004 at 21:36, Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
>
> > To clarify a few things...
> >
>
><snip interesting background on oil habits :-) >
>
> > 	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
> > 	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
> > 	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
> > 	oil to get recycled.
>
>In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I still can't 
>find my jug of
>chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in a rush, 
>so...
>
>Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than new chain 
>oil can
>it?...
>
>:-o
>
>--
>Shawn Wright
>http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
>~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
>"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Vwdiesel mailing list
>Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
>End of Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
>***************************************

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From scameron at compmore.net  Wed Apr 21 11:07:01 2004
From: scameron at compmore.net (Sandy Cameron)
Date: Wed Apr 21 11:07:02 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20040421150350.0067f938@pop3.compmore.net>

At 10:46 PM 4/20/04 -0600, you wrote:
>Except in winterm, or in bear country.  It gets too stiff in winter.  Also,
>canola oil smells like food to a bear.  Not being into spraying food smell
>about while running a noisy engine wearing earmuffs and completely tuning
>out except for what I'm doing...  mebbe in the bush country, the bottle of
>juice from the friendly neighborhood Stihl dealer is still best.
>
>-James (not a bear food kinda guy)
>
>

But on the other hand, if you had to get up close and personal, a well-oiled
20" stihl might be the weapon of choice>

Sandy

From greg4vwparts at hotmail.com  Wed Apr 21 11:09:17 2004
From: greg4vwparts at hotmail.com (greg rich)
Date: Wed Apr 21 11:09:18 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
Message-ID: <Sea2-F37hNzW3l1GM3h00014277@hotmail.com>

I think one important point here that I can honestly comment on, any VW 
diesel would last too 200-250k miles with minimal maintenace and cheap oil, 
but having an engine last too 500k miles without rebuilding is common with 
synthetics and careful monitoring.  I have owned about 12, many were abused 
when I got them but still ran fine (all had over 200k). It is getting the 
engine to double that life that takes some special care and high quality 
lubes, especially when 5 months of the year have below freezing temps at 
night.
My fathers 300 SD td Mercedes went 300k miles on regular oil with regular 
changes (5k intervals), then we fixed any leaks and went to synthetic, now 
we run 10k intervals with a filter inbetween, the car has never been happier 
(now at 500k) and zero consumption/leaks. I have a harder time running my 
TDI that long cause the oil STINKS after 6-7k due to the EGR (and it is shut 
down as much as the computer allows).
I am not trying to stir up anyones anger, but I firmly believe if you want 
an engine to last (I mean LAST 500k+) you have to use the best (synthetic, 
group 4 diesel oil) especially in turbo applications and obviously take good 
care of the car so the rest is still around as long as the engine!
I would say most people are quite happy if their car passes 200k and then no 
longer care about, it has paid for itself and is no longer reliable in their 
view, I am the opposite, I find there is no reason a 500k VW is not 
reliable. I have never had any serious engine problems or failures in the 
ten years of VW diesels I have had, and over a million miles already between 
the four drivers in the family and 12 cars. No headgaskets even.
I have had to retire a couple due to rust (rusty when I got them, drove them 
till the drivers seat fell out!) but I still used syn oil etc cause the 
engine lives on in another car... Now I kinda wished I had kept them, they 
are getting rare all of a sudden, no more cheap transportation!
I do see Val's point about cost over lifetime, but what if the engine never 
wore out? I also fo three times the distance he does between changes, much 
less oil use and it kinda pays for itself then (the syn price difference). I 
have not installed any bypass oil filters yet, maybe this summer and then I 
will really extend the drain intervals!
Greg

I>Message: 6
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:36:15 -0400 (EDT)
>From: Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us>
>Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
>To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>Cc: "H .Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
>Message-ID: <200404210136.VAA25340@swamps.roc.ny.us>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>To clarify a few things...
>
> > This is first hand experience.     In a lots of blow-by Rabbits ----lots 
>=
> > of fuel
> > winds up downstairs.  Remember all the accounts of  "she is not using =
> > oil" ???
> > wrong ----it is being replaced by fuel.    I do believe Val Christian   
>=
> > ----is telling
> > it from personal experience. I also agree with him.  -----But read my =
>
>
>	Generally the older 1.5 high blow-by Rabbits had the problem that
>	excessive oil splatter would collect in the intake manifold.
>	It would get to a critical level, and then you had a mega
>	horsepower (the brakes WOULD NOT STOP IT) runaway car.
>
>	There is a secondary issue in that usually a high miler would
>	also have incomplete atomization at the injectors, and drippy
>	injectors, which would lead to crankcase oil dilution.  In many
>	high mileage Rabbits I didn't see tons of this, although it
>	did exist.
>
>	The runaway engine was more of a oil-in-the-intake phenomenon.
>
>	It is well documented that oil dilution is a common problem in
>	high time diesel engines.
>
>
> > Val Christian has had Rabbits from day one so when he tells us something 
>=
>
>
>	I think what Hagar is alluding to is my oil policy.  In general,
>	I buy the best oil I think I can get for the early life of my
>	engines, and I tend to change more frequently than recommended.
>
>	As my cars pass through 100Kmiles or 150Kmiles, I tend to use
>	different oils.  There are diminishing returns on high end oil.
>
>	Early in my ownership of diesels, it was easy to get reasonable
>	oil at reasonable prices.  Probably around 84 or so, the CD and
>	SF ratings (I may have the exact timing and exact ratings wrong)
>	became mutually exclusive. Consequently, cheap oil became more
>	difficult to get.  I simply started using SF or SG oil, in the
>	same brands as I had used before.  I figured that things like
>	soot handling were not as critical when I changed oil at 2500
>	or 3000 mile intervals.  I had several Rabbits that I was the
>	original owner, and in general, they rusted out before the
>	engines required anything more than a head rebuild and a
>	reringing. (never rebored a VW diesel)
>
>	Stated differently, over a 250K mile life (conservative), the
>	"incorrect oil", changing oil at 2500 mile intervals, we're talking
>	100 oil changes.  Using SF/SG/SH oil, I probably paid about 4 or 5
>	bucks a change.  Let's say $500.  To upgrade the oil to a CD
>	oil, we're talking an expenditure of about $1500.  $1000 difference.
>	As near as I can tell, after comparing notes with many local
>	Rabbit and Mercedes owners, I get as good engine life as anyone
>	else.  Certainly good enough that the measurement error is
>	as great as any other obvious difference.
>
>	In a high time engine, there are many benefits of frequent oil
>	changes.  Blowby contaminates the oil with soot, acids and other
>	by products.  Some of these contaminants are not effectively
>	filtered, and are best controlled by swapping out the engine
>	oil.  Perhaps it's just a physchoogical thing, but I feel
>	better doing $5 oil changes, than $12 or $15 oil changes.
>
>	In older cars, I tend to change the filter at 5K to 10Kmile
>	intervals.  Depending upon the car, conditions, etc.
>
>	Having said all that, in my 03 Jetta, I'm using Shell Rotella
>	Synthetic, 5W-40, which is about $12.88 at Walmart.  I can
>	afford that, and the synthetic makes allot of sense with a
>	turbo, and the temperature cycles that the oil goes through.
>	A case of VW filters is less than $6 each (wholesale) from the
>	dealer, so 03 Jetta oil changes are affordable.
>
>	Hagar is right in that although there are scientific tools to
>	help us understand our oil, the actual practice and results
>	of oil selection and maintenance are sometimes hard to
>	quantify, and appear as more of an art form.
>
>	Some group members have gone to conditional based oil changes,
>	relying upon testing.  That's great.  Especially if you have
>	a lab discount.  Some of us do a partial analysis using paper
>	chromatography.  It might help to also get pH, particulate
>	and soluable contaminants (like fuel).
>
>	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
>	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
>	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
>	oil to get recycled.
>
>	Val
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:13:33 -0700
>From: "Shawn Wright" <swright@zuiko.sls.bc.ca>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
>To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
>On 20 Apr 2004 at 21:36, Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
>
> > To clarify a few things...
> >
>
><snip interesting background on oil habits :-) >
>
> > 	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
> > 	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
> > 	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
> > 	oil to get recycled.
>
>In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I still can't 
>find my jug of
>chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in a rush, 
>so...
>
>Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than new chain 
>oil can
>it?...
>
>:-o
>
>--
>Shawn Wright
>http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
>~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
>"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>Vwdiesel mailing list
>Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>
>
>End of Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
>***************************************

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From iscass at shaw.ca  Wed Apr 21 11:52:57 2004
From: iscass at shaw.ca (cass)
Date: Wed Apr 21 11:52:58 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Lube Oil for old Rabbits ---- ( use DINO )
References: <1e2.1e48874e.2db6d1c2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01d301c427b8$acea2bb0$0200a8c0@ccl475>


on the topic of oils..
i have been using 'ok' diesel rated oil in my diesel landcruiser(78)
for bout 10 years...changed at regular intervals.(typically Pennzoil)
i decided to change it to the chevron 'delo' oil..
a greater cost..but decided from what i had read here and other places to try it.
(also switched to chevron diesel too at the same time >,from 'pay less' gas/diesel...)
why am i telling you this?
since ive owned the beast...the original oil filler cap has always been a little loose.
didn't leek..was just a lil 'not snug'
anyway..so..after the' delo' being in the truck for a month...that filler cap 
fits tight as all gettout.  as it would have been from new im guessing.
cause of that..ill be sticking with the better oil.
makes me think its doing good stuff.
as for the chevron diesel?
didn't think it made a difference till ifilled again once with  payless(its close..chevron is out of the way) id defiantly smokes MORE on startup with the cheaper fuel
:o(  ... back to chevron :o)
i take most info i read with a grain of salt.
but for me..this is enough to stay with this stuff..even though its more pricy.
and a lil outta my way.
i wonder if the better 'used' oil makes for better brush burning.?
ive got 10 acres of broom to cut and burn (some of it 6 inches thick!!)
no bears though...just ticks  :o(   hate ticks.

ok..
have a good day.

cassie..(not affiliated with chevron in any way)  :o)
From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr 21 12:38:08 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr 21 12:38:09 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
In-Reply-To: <SEA2-F62mWB1H3rWsWP00014224@hotmail.com>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOOEKJEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>

You're right Greg, but there isn't much difference in pre-tdi engines
between frequent changes of dino, and extended drain intervals of synthetic
other than environmental. Post tdi, different ball game.  Much more soot
loading due to the soot recirculator (egr). I would think synth is pretty
much mandatory for those if you want to have any longevity.
Synth in winter is pretty much mandatory here (Sask) if you want a good
reliable car, as the starts are significantly improved, and should greatly
reduce engine wear over the long haul on cold starts. I feel it has on my
fleet anyway.

SD's are nice.  Father in law had one, real pleasure to drive. THere's a
local one for sale, seller wants 12K CDN, it has 20000 km original, and
looks like it too- showroom condition.

Cleaned the manifold on the Passat a while ago. egr essentially trades off
emisions for engine longevity. There were 2 cups of crap in the manifold, I
have no idea how it ran so well, and didn't grenade from chunks of that ooze
breaking off and going through the cylinders. Not a good thing at all.
-James

> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces@vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of greg rich
> Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2004 9:04 AM
> To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] RE: Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
>
>
> I think one important point here that I can honestly comment on, any VW
> diesel would last too 200-250k miles with minimal maintenace and
> cheap oil,
> but having an engine last too 500k miles without rebuilding is
> common with
> synthetics and careful monitoring.  I have owned about 12, many
> were abused
> when I got them but still ran fine (all had over 200k). It is getting the
> engine to double that life that takes some special care and high quality
> lubes, especially when 5 months of the year have below freezing temps at
> night.
> My fathers 300 SD td Mercedes went 300k miles on regular oil with regular
> changes (5k intervals), then we fixed any leaks and went to
> synthetic, now
> we run 10k intervals with a filter inbetween, the car has never
> been happier
> (now at 500k) and zero consumption/leaks. I have a harder time running my
> TDI that long cause the oil STINKS after 6-7k due to the EGR (and
> it is shut
> down as much as the computer allows).
> I am not trying to stir up anyones anger, but I firmly believe if
> you want
> an engine to last (I mean LAST 500k+) you have to use the best
> (synthetic,
> group 4 diesel oil) especially in turbo applications and
> obviously take good
> care of the car so the rest is still around as long as the engine!
> I would say most people are quite happy if their car passes 200k
> and then no
> longer care about, it has paid for itself and is no longer
> reliable in their
> view, I am the opposite, I find there is no reason a 500k VW is not
> reliable. I have never had any serious engine problems or failures in the
> ten years of VW diesels I have had, and over a million miles
> already between
> the four drivers in the family and 12 cars. No headgaskets even.
> I have had to retire a couple due to rust (rusty when I got them,
> drove them
> till the drivers seat fell out!) but I still used syn oil etc cause the
> engine lives on in another car... Now I kinda wished I had kept
> them, they
> are getting rare all of a sudden, no more cheap transportation!
> I do see Val's point about cost over lifetime, but what if the
> engine never
> wore out? I also fo three times the distance he does between
> changes, much
> less oil use and it kinda pays for itself then (the syn price
> difference). I
> have not installed any bypass oil filters yet, maybe this summer
> and then I
> will really extend the drain intervals!
> Greg
>
> I>Message: 6
> >Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 21:36:15 -0400 (EDT)
> >From: Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us>
> >Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
> >To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> >Cc: "H .Hagar" <h_hagar@prcn.org>
> >Message-ID: <200404210136.VAA25340@swamps.roc.ny.us>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> >
> >To clarify a few things...
> >
> > > This is first hand experience.     In a lots of blow-by
> Rabbits ----lots
> >=
> > > of fuel
> > > winds up downstairs.  Remember all the accounts of  "she is
> not using =
> > > oil" ???
> > > wrong ----it is being replaced by fuel.    I do believe Val
> Christian
> >=
> > > ----is telling
> > > it from personal experience. I also agree with him.  -----But
> read my =
> >
> >
> >	Generally the older 1.5 high blow-by Rabbits had the problem that
> >	excessive oil splatter would collect in the intake manifold.
> >	It would get to a critical level, and then you had a mega
> >	horsepower (the brakes WOULD NOT STOP IT) runaway car.
> >
> >	There is a secondary issue in that usually a high miler would
> >	also have incomplete atomization at the injectors, and drippy
> >	injectors, which would lead to crankcase oil dilution.  In many
> >	high mileage Rabbits I didn't see tons of this, although it
> >	did exist.
> >
> >	The runaway engine was more of a oil-in-the-intake phenomenon.
> >
> >	It is well documented that oil dilution is a common problem in
> >	high time diesel engines.
> >
> >
> > > Val Christian has had Rabbits from day one so when he tells
> us something
> >=
> >
> >
> >	I think what Hagar is alluding to is my oil policy.  In general,
> >	I buy the best oil I think I can get for the early life of my
> >	engines, and I tend to change more frequently than recommended.
> >
> >	As my cars pass through 100Kmiles or 150Kmiles, I tend to use
> >	different oils.  There are diminishing returns on high end oil.
> >
> >	Early in my ownership of diesels, it was easy to get reasonable
> >	oil at reasonable prices.  Probably around 84 or so, the CD and
> >	SF ratings (I may have the exact timing and exact ratings wrong)
> >	became mutually exclusive. Consequently, cheap oil became more
> >	difficult to get.  I simply started using SF or SG oil, in the
> >	same brands as I had used before.  I figured that things like
> >	soot handling were not as critical when I changed oil at 2500
> >	or 3000 mile intervals.  I had several Rabbits that I was the
> >	original owner, and in general, they rusted out before the
> >	engines required anything more than a head rebuild and a
> >	reringing. (never rebored a VW diesel)
> >
> >	Stated differently, over a 250K mile life (conservative), the
> >	"incorrect oil", changing oil at 2500 mile intervals, we're talking
> >	100 oil changes.  Using SF/SG/SH oil, I probably paid about 4 or 5
> >	bucks a change.  Let's say $500.  To upgrade the oil to a CD
> >	oil, we're talking an expenditure of about $1500.  $1000 difference.
> >	As near as I can tell, after comparing notes with many local
> >	Rabbit and Mercedes owners, I get as good engine life as anyone
> >	else.  Certainly good enough that the measurement error is
> >	as great as any other obvious difference.
> >
> >	In a high time engine, there are many benefits of frequent oil
> >	changes.  Blowby contaminates the oil with soot, acids and other
> >	by products.  Some of these contaminants are not effectively
> >	filtered, and are best controlled by swapping out the engine
> >	oil.  Perhaps it's just a physchoogical thing, but I feel
> >	better doing $5 oil changes, than $12 or $15 oil changes.
> >
> >	In older cars, I tend to change the filter at 5K to 10Kmile
> >	intervals.  Depending upon the car, conditions, etc.
> >
> >	Having said all that, in my 03 Jetta, I'm using Shell Rotella
> >	Synthetic, 5W-40, which is about $12.88 at Walmart.  I can
> >	afford that, and the synthetic makes allot of sense with a
> >	turbo, and the temperature cycles that the oil goes through.
> >	A case of VW filters is less than $6 each (wholesale) from the
> >	dealer, so 03 Jetta oil changes are affordable.
> >
> >	Hagar is right in that although there are scientific tools to
> >	help us understand our oil, the actual practice and results
> >	of oil selection and maintenance are sometimes hard to
> >	quantify, and appear as more of an art form.
> >
> >	Some group members have gone to conditional based oil changes,
> >	relying upon testing.  That's great.  Especially if you have
> >	a lab discount.  Some of us do a partial analysis using paper
> >	chromatography.  It might help to also get pH, particulate
> >	and soluable contaminants (like fuel).
> >
> >	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
> >	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
> >	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
> >	oil to get recycled.
> >
> >	Val
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Message: 7
> >Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 18:13:33 -0700
> >From: "Shawn Wright" <swright@zuiko.sls.bc.ca>
> >Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
> >To: vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> >Message-ID: <4085684D.28659.1BFEFFA5@localhost>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
> >
> >On 20 Apr 2004 at 21:36, Val Christian <val@swamps.roc.ny.us> wrote:
> >
> > > To clarify a few things...
> > >
> >
> ><snip interesting background on oil habits :-) >
> >
> > > 	In the end, I don't really know what is right, but I do know
> > > 	where I have an imperfectly formed comfort level.  And all of
> > > 	this writing has served to remind me that I have 15 gal of used
> > > 	oil to get recycled.
> >
> >In a pinch, some of this could be used a chainsaw bar oil... I
> still can't
> >find my jug of
> >chain oil, and the used oil jugs were handy, and well, I was in a rush,
> >so...
> >
> >Really, it can't be *that* much worse for the environment than new chain
> >oil can
> >it?...
> >
> >:-o
> >
> >--
> >Shawn Wright
> >http://Zuiko.sls.bc.ca/swright
> >~This message sent by Pegasus Mail, the safe E-Mail alternative~
> >"Friends don't let friends use Outlook"
> >
> >
> >
> >------------------------------
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Vwdiesel mailing list
> >Vwdiesel@vwfans.com
> >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
> >
> >End of Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 6, Issue 31
> >***************************************
>
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From jhsg at sasktel.net  Wed Apr 21 12:46:27 2004
From: jhsg at sasktel.net (James Hansen)
Date: Wed Apr 21 12:46:27 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Tradeoffs and Cheap Lube (long)
In-Reply-To: <1.5.4.32.20040421150350.0067f938@pop3.compmore.net>
Message-ID: <JDELIOONCIECDNKCCMIOMEKJEFAA.jhsg@sasktel.net>


LOL!!  that's too close and personal for me, Sandy.
A well oiled slide action Winch with short barrel and '00' is better. Much
much much.
Griz gets 30 sec of mayhem potential after a fatal shot due to the
tremendous amount of oxygen they have stored in muscle tissue. I can't see
it would be much of a chainsaw massacre at that rate as 400+ lb of bear
steamrollers you into the moss. However, it would be definitely better than
defiantly waving a stick...
-James

> But on the other hand, if you had to get up close and personal, a
> well-oiled
> 20" stihl might be the weapon of choice>
>
> Sandy
>
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From h_hagar at prcn.org  Wed Apr 21 15:00:21 2004
From: h_hagar at prcn.org (H.Hagar)
Date: Wed Apr 21 15:00:21 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 66 ----- ( a matter of choice )
Message-ID: <000201c427d2$beac6100$6ced7240@svend>

Val Christian had something right IMHO   IMHO   --- the word is  "ART" not science.

The real thing here is TLC  for your Rabbit.  --- That spells TIME  and lots of it.

Lubricants are important  --- and do I like syn ??? yes ---but I do not like the price.

Did I investigate in depth ??? certainly.     So it is an ART to do what is right.

The best of the crude is used for high end lubes like  AVIATION  ---lube.    Why is that ?
--money.    To wind up with an ashless lube --- it is done by selecting crude. So now
we wind up with two problems ----- good lubrication and good combustion.  So does Dino
lubricate well ? yes.   Does it burn well ?  yes.        Does syn lubricate well ???   yes.
Does it burn well ?   ---- NO.       So we are back to "ART".

Ask any refiner ---- and I bet they say  --- a lot of art is involved.  Like making BEER ---
do you think it is all science ?     

Here are the numbers on ASH (sash)    from Esso Exxon Mobil.   EE 100 ------
Ash mass %  NIL.     Sulfur mass %  0.50.

So why do we not use that in diesels ?    NIL sash sounds good ----- enter DA CRAP.

Dispersant for soot and things to neutralize acid ---- and so on. Are needed.

Name me a Syn  fully certified for Aircraft engines ???  that should give you a hint of
what I am talking about.    Piston engines.

The very properties that makes Syn so great ---is counter productive in certain applications.

ALL the syn's that I checked are loaded with ASH (sash).

NO    API    I do not use.       Wisdom and experience ---- believe it.   Better non API 
oils may be available -----   now we are talking ARTs.   

Cheap Dino like Loren said ----may coke up the top rings ---I agree .   ---enter  the ART.

Why ART ?   because only you know the condition of use ---- Inuvik and Texas desert the same ?
nuff said.       Here on the "WET COAST"   moisture is a problem ---- that calls for a rust
preventative. -------- .

Someone here asked why the  6 month or whatever rule ???  super question   I never
got a believable answer.   But Hagar the artist thinks he knows.

Having a LOT of fun  ---this is Rabitdosious weather . ---bet your ass.

Her is my Poetic side :       You have to say DY like them Scottish ones.   means to do.

"To dy and dy , and dy some more
and dy and dy your whole life thry 
but nary dy a chore.

So is it work?     never.

Hagar.
From scott3491 at insightbb.com  Wed Apr 21 21:54:51 2004
From: scott3491 at insightbb.com (Scott Kair)
Date: Wed Apr 21 21:54:52 2004
Subject: [Vwdiesel] 190 Benz questions
Message-ID: <001d01c4280c$f245dd40$6401a8c0@insightbb.com>

    Today I was offered a 1987 Mercedes 190D with a stock 2.5L td engine.
The owner is ready to get rid of it due to some problems.  It started
alright for me, but I didn't drive it, and only gave it a superficial look.
    Owner described engine issue as alternator related- the battery (of
unknown age) goes dead and periodically won't start unless jumped.  Also
runs rough- it vibrates to the point of shaking- and lacks power.  There
also appears to be a fuel weep/seep/ leak in the vicinity of the pump.  The
plastic fuel filter appeared to be black inside, and owner didn't know how
old that or the main filter are.
    Climate control is screwed up, which is a given.  There was some
superficial rust on the left front fender, and very noticeable rust spots on
the left rocker panels.  Muffler is new, as in a month or so old, but the
engine was fairly loud.
    The charging issue, if that's what it is, is a concern, as the
alternator is buried.  (Serpentine belt is about 5 years old.)
    I suspect that ne