[Vwdiesel] Brakes ------ ( repair to REAR Rabbit brakes ) a

McCanless, James james.mccanless at lmco.com
Tue Jun 8 07:22:14 EDT 2004

Some of this may be redundant but here goes. 

Did you bench bleed the MC prior to installation? 

When bleeding system start the farthest from the MC and work your way
toward it, i.e., RR, LR, RF, LF on a LHD vehicle. 

You can check the MC by plugging the ports and seeing if you have

On the discs, where there are hoses, you can disconnect the hose and
clamp it off with suitable tool (vise grip) to see if you have pressure.

Work through it systematically.


-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
On Behalf Of Ethan Vos
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:14 AM
To: H.Hagar
Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Brakes ------ ( repair to REAR Rabbit brakes ) a

Good timing on this subject.

I have been working with the rear brakes on my 92 TD for almost a week.

I can't get a brake pedal.

I replaced the shoes and the LR wheel cylinder. The shoes are adjusted 
as tight as I can get them, which is a slight drag on the drum. I can 
turn the drums by hand without the wheel on.

I do not think that there is any air in the system.

When I pump the brakes for the first time, I get a sound like a spring 
letting go from the brake booster master cylinder area. Two or three 
pumps and the noise stops. After replacing the shoes and wheel cylinder,

the pedal would pump up and then fade, so I replaced the master.

One thing I noticed is that with the brake applied I can still turn the 
rear drums without the wheels on.

Where do I look next? Could the adjuster bar be worn? It looks like it 
could be. Is it possible that there is still air trapped somewhere?

I know I'm missing something simple.


H.Hagar wrote:
> The mallet trick. :    
> How to use the mallet. ----- it is used to shift shoes up and down and

> left and right . To facilitate easy removal and installation of 
> springs.
> After taking the two upper bolts from axle take whole assembly and put

> on workbench.
> Tap axle away from backplate.       Loosen two screws holding cylinder
> (do not remove now)
> With plate-- shoes towards you move handbrake lever as far towards 
> front (of car) as you can.  If done right it will lock in place and 
> cylinder can now be removed.
> Then we release handbrake lever by tapping gently in the right place.
Hang on to
> it or keep fingers away from nipp.   Remember the pushbar spreads the
shoes to
> remove cylinder so the spring up top is in tension.
> Remove the two keepers and springs from middle of shoes.
> Then use mallet to drive shoes up or down till bottom comes off bottom

> pushblock . That releases tension on bottom spring.Simply remove using

> fingers.
> Rest is straight forward.    
> Hagar.
> Assembly instructions may follow. 
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