[Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 38, Issue 42
mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us
Mon Dec 25 08:12:21 EST 2006
>Date: Sun, 24 Dec 2006 11:36:41 -0600
>From: James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] changing the timing belt
>To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <458EBAA9.6060706 at sasktel.net>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> Should I take the cam-sprocket
>>lose and realign? I haven't run it any yet, other than to turn it over
>>by hand to see if things shift any more (it didn't).
>The reason for loosening the cam sprocket, is because THIS IS THE MOST
>IMPORTANT PART of the procedure. The cam to crank timing is critical.
>No, make that CRITICAL. IF it wasn't, the pulley would be keyed to the
>cam, and a degree or two either way just wouldn't matter as much.
>The whole point of the steps are to remove as much error due to
>differing belt lengths as possible. It's impossible to make a belt
>produced last week EXACTLY the same as one made in 1982, so the
>procedure itself removes as much error as practically possible. That's
>why you time the crank to the valves first, then the pump to the crank.
> Doing it in that order removes any error accumulation. There are no
>shortcuts that leave you with perfect results.
That makes alot of sense, thanks. Since it seems that it's not that
unusual for the cam-sprocket to shift on the shaft, would it be
acceptable to use some kind of locking compound on the union?
Super-glue comes to mind, along with locktite.
Tightening and/or loosening the cam sounds like a possibly risky venture
unless one has the proper tools to do it with. I used blocks of wood and
wedges to block the most blockable cam lobes, for instance, when I was
putting the timing belt on, and I'm not sure this would be safe for
breaking loose or tightening things on the head. I'm thinking I'll wait
till I can use my air wrench (no compressor right now) before I try
loosening the cam sprocket.
One other question I had on the timing belt setup concerns some
instruction I readin a Chilton manual - it says to strike the T-belt
witth a mallet right between the cam sprocet and IP sprocket - that just
doesn't sound right and I/m not going to do it, but what do you think
about doing that?
>>One other question: The pully on the intermediate shaft is not a tight
>>fit on the shaft, it moves maybe a degree either way before the key
>>stops it. I tightened the bolt down to about 70 ft-lbs. Also, is it
>>normal to be able to slip this pulley around against the T-belt after
>>the tension is set on the T-belt?
>Like Val mentioned, it shouldn't be loose. Tightening the bolt should
>be putting tension on stuff, so better investigate. Are you seeing the
>play at the keyway, or just feeling it on the pulley when turning it?
>If going by feel, it would be oil pump and vac pump play you feel?
It's the keyway in the pulley that's just a wee bit sloppy - but I also
suspect mishandling or outright sloppiness occurred in the supposed
rebuild that was allegedly done to this thing before I bought it. I'm
wondering if the wrong pulley got installed, or the wrong intermediate
shaft, or someone modified one or the other. As far as whether the vac
and oil pump are being properly driven, how hard should the shaft be to
turn? I can turn it fairly easily either way with just a thumb and index
Thanks for the info.
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