[Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us
Wed Nov 29 18:58:40 EST 2006
James Hansen wrote:
> Welcome to the diesel list Mike.
> Home of the smarter and better looking.
Well, I came to the right place then 8^)
> but the owner didn't keep any of the receipts or know for
>> sure what all had been replaced, other than rings and bearings.
> then assume it got only rings and bearings. NO intermediate shaft
> bearings, no head work. File this info in the top drawer for future
> reference if problems begin to arise later. It will serve to make
> diagnosis easier.
Hmm, intermediate shaft bearings sounds serious - for that matter, a
head with 190k paired with
new parts doesn't sound that great...
>> supposedly developed a slight exhaust leak after about 2,000 miles
>> that the rebuilder 'couldn't hear' and so wouldn't fix.
> Is the underhood area and backside of head covered in soot, or clean?
> If clean, it was only leaking a tad, and someone was going to fix it,
> started, and gave up. If covered in black soot, it was driven like
> that for some time.
The underhood area is not soot covered, but the back side of the engine
and the firewall shield both had a good bit of soot. Also the inside
of the timing belt cover had quite a bit of sooty deposits in it , much
more than you would think would get in there in 2k miles.
>> 1). I found a half container of Valvoline 10W-30 oil in the trunk,
>> it's a non-diesel rated oil;
>> if this is what the PO was running in the engine for its first 2,000
>> miles, is there any thing that could or should be done to correct any
>> problems that may have caused? ( I changed the filter and put in some
>> Shell Rotella 15W-40)
> Only by running the correct oil, as you have done. Since he was
> running the cheap stuff, assume that he treated the rest of the car
> that way in your future repairs. Detergents in the shell should fix
> and remove any leftover goo from running the wrong stuff.
Well, that's a relief to hear (except for the part about how he treated
the car, but you're probably right about that)...
> What really distinguishes a diesel oil from a gas oil is the soot
> handling ability. Diesel oil can hold a lot more soot in suspension
> than a gasser oil can. So, gas oil tends to deposit soot inside the
> motor rather than keeping it suspended so it leaves when you drain the
> oil. Running the right oil will fix this, with the caveat that if it
> had tens of thousands of miles on the wrong stuff, with long drain
> intervals, the crap inside the motor gets pretty extensive...not
> pretty if you see it.
>> 2). Since I don't know whether the head was ever re-torqued, would
>> it be wise to do so before I start putting any miles on it? Could I
>> possibly cause any problems by doing so?
> I would suspect it was. He obviously had it back about the exhaust
> leak, so must have been back for that I would hope. There's no way to
> check if it has been done or not??... unless you can get in touch with
> the original rebuilder, or the previous owner remembers. if it hasn't
> been done, it will leak. Then I guess, you will know for sure... :-)
I'll definitely be looking into that - maybe his memory has improved a
little now that he no longer is trying to sell the car.
> Retorquing it again if it has been would run the risk of bolt breakage
> on the torque to yield fasteners.
Hey, this list is great, I'm learning a lot fast...
> One way to circumvent this and end the speculation would be to install
> Raceware or ARP studs.
> They can be installed by doing it one at a time, so you don't lose
> head sealing. I would suggest this if you want to do it. I prefer
> studs anyway... since I detest the stretchy bolts with a passion. You
> should not lose a head sealig over a single overheating event... which
> you do with torque to yield fasteners. As soon as the motor overheats
> (the aluminum head gets hot and expands faster than the steel bolt),
> they get stretched when the force on them exceeds their elastic
> limit. studs give you some elbow room, and you can retorque them
> whenever you choose with no damage.
Good to know I have an option instead of just waiting to see if it leaks
or not ; ) Actually, I think I have heard a slight bit of a whisper
from the coolant resevoir a time or two after letting the engine run
till it's up to operating temp, I guess I better try to see where
exactly that sound is coming from..
>> 3). Judging from the reading I've been doing, the timing belt seems
>> to be properly tensioned, and
>> doesn't seem to be showing any overt signs of impending failure,
> Timing belts rarely ever do show signs of overt failure, that's why
> the maintenance interval. They go from a nice little belt, to one
> that is good except for the missing teeth around the crank sprocket
> area. It's quite a dramatic outcome over a few teeth.
> is it
>> possible that the belt could
>> have 'plenty of life left in it', assuming that it was replaced
>> during the rebuild?
> Assuming, of course, that the guy that was too tight to buy the right
> diesel oil won the lottery and sprang for a belt. I can hear it now;
> "Hell no Sam, that has plenty of life left in it, just put it back on,
> I'm selling it anyway."
LOL, I think you may have this guy pegged...
> I guess there's no way to tell for sure, but thought I'd
>> ask in case there actually is a way.
> If the belt is new, with 2000 miles on it, it will still look new.
> No, make that it will still look BRAND NEW. You should be able to
> read the numbers, and manufacturer's insignia clearly, they should be
> hardly disturbed in 2000 miles at all. If it looks worn in the
> slightest, assume it is ready to explode tomorrow. Replace both the
> tensioner and the belt. I would bet real money that the tensioner is
> OEM original to the car, and has spun for 190000miles. By this time,
> the tensioner is ready to go, usually a quarter way into the belt
> replacement interval. If you don't get curious soon enough as to what
> the goofy noise by the timing belt is, the belt gets eaten, and the
> valves crash when the tensioner dies, and your next post to the list
> is entitled something like "My timing belt just died, what now?"
Great information, thanks; it sounds like you've been into this subject
much more than the average vw-diesel enthusiast ...
>> If you got this far, thanks for listening, and thanks in advance for
>> any insights / advice any of you may have to offer.
> Friends don't let friends use *spit* Fram.
> know it. live it.
I used to use Fram before I knew better - I never had any problems with
'em, but I've sure heard of a lot of other people having probs.
Thanks for your reply,
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