[Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us
Wed Nov 29 19:22:04 EST 2006
>First off, sounds like a good deal even considering the maintenance I'm
>about to throw at you ...
>Let's go down the list.
>1) Oil. If there is only 2000mi so far on that gasser oil, I don't see
>an issue. The diesel spec oil you just put in will take care of any
>2) Headbolts. Here I think you have a couple of options. However, unless
>you can get a definite answer about re-torquing from the PO, I wouldn't
>trust them. a) Like others have said, you can just shell out $114.xx at
>Summit Racing for ARP head studs, and never have to worry about them
>again. Or, you can spend what, $3 a piece ( most likely less from
>on-line sources such as AutoHausAZ) and replace them one at a time(like
>ARP) and just run through the entire torque sequence as if it were
>already at 600mi, 29ft-lbs, 44, 1/4, 1/4, 1/4, 1/4.(One(1) turn total)
This acquiring of new $3 bolts sounds like a viable option more in step
with my somewhat limited income...
>3) Replace the timing belt. Now. Tensioner included. Did I say now?
>A) Replace all of the injectors with rebuilds.
Hmm - guess I'm gonna have to get another part time job, the one I've
got now is coming to an end soon...
>B) Check Cam timing. You will do this anyway when you replace the belt.
>C) Check valve lash. the '85 was still using solid lifters. Tedious, but
>easy enough to do. You can do this in two parts. Measure each of the
>clearances, remove each shim in turn, note the thickness on each, put
>car back togethjer to drive. Determine the size of the replacement shim.
>Order new shims accordingly. In two weeks, when the shims have arrived,
>replace said shims. I happen to have a big box of shims at the ready for
>this purpose, so I don't need to wait. Used ones can be re-used.
Ah ha, that's the one thing that kept me from ever getting very familiar
with the two Rabbits I used to own...
>D) Check/set injector timing. Just set it to 1.00mm and be done with it.
>This will give a nice performance boost. Search the archives for
>"Dynamic Injector Timing" to study where 1.00mm is coming from(as
>compared to the OEM 0.88mm)
I've got a partial Mitutoyo micrometer (scrounged at the local
scrapyard) that reads in thousandths - I'll have to see if I can adapt
that some how...
>Congratulations on your find. I am sure you will get many years of happy
>service from it.
Thanks, and thanks for your response and recommendations.
>>dear all, sorry if this is a bit long winded but please bear with me.
>>I've been going over the archives and finding very helpful guidance and
>>information from the many contributors who post on this list, my thanks
>>to you all for sharing, this list is a great resource for anyone with a
>>diesel vehicle, be it a VW or not.
>>First, a little background on the car and new owner thereof.
>>I had been looking to buy a VW diesel vehicle for several years off and
>>on, but, up until recently I never had the money at the same time that I
>>had found a fixer-upper - I've owned 7 volkswagens previous to the Jetta
>>and, being a do-it-yourself kinda guy, I've always done most of the
>>repairs to them and all the maintenance.
>>The story on the car, a short summary:
>> It has 190k miles, it had been parked for a few years in the previous
>>owner's driveway. I'm told that the engine was rebuilt for a cost of
>>about $1,300 , but the owner didn't keep any of the receipts or know for
>>sure what all had been replaced, other than rings and bearings. It
>>supposedly developed a slight exhaust leak after about 2,000 miles that
>>the rebuilder 'couldn't hear' and so wouldn't fix. The PO said that he
>>had the rebuild done because it had started smoking and sooting up the
>>rear of the vehicle. It has great tires, body is in fair condition, no
>>rust, asking price was $600. How could I resist?
>>When I got it home and found that there were only 3 nuts left loosely
>>holding the manifold to the head, I began to have doubts about anything
>>the PO had told me - Slight exhaust leak , righhtt.
>>Anyway, I pulled the glow plugs and squirted some oil into each cylinder
>>and let it soak for a couple days, then changed the crankcase oil and
>>cranked the engine over till I was sure oil was getting everywhere. I
>>replaced the glow plugs, then disassembled as needed to put new locking
>>nuts and gaskets on the exhaust manifold. Upon reassembly, and once I
>>finally got the IP primed it started up without too much trouble, and
>>it sounds OK to me (but what the bleep do I know?). So far I've only
>>driven it just a bit on a steep road near my place and it seems to have
>>plenty of power, and it starts right up at 30 degrees F (the coldest
>>it's been so far); I have a few concerns that prevent me from having
>>the confidence to make it my daily driver at this point, so I was
>>hoping someone here might be able to give me a few answers.
>>1). I found a half container of Valvoline 10W-30 oil in the trunk, it's
>>a non-diesel rated oil;
>>if this is what the PO was running in the engine for its first 2,000
>>miles, is there any thing that could or should be done to correct any
>>problems that may have caused? ( I changed the filter and put in some
>>Shell Rotella 15W-40)
>>2). Since I don't know whether the head was ever re-torqued, would it
>>be wise to do so before I start putting any miles on it? Could I
>>possibly cause any problems by doing so?
>>3). Judging from the reading I've been doing, the timing belt seems to
>>be properly tensioned, and
>>doesn't seem to be showing any overt signs of impending failure, is it
>>possible that the belt could
>>have 'plenty of life left in it', assuming that it was replaced during
>>the rebuild? I guess there's no way to tell for sure, but thought I'd
>>ask in case there actually is a way.
>>If you got this far, thanks for listening, and thanks in advance for any
>>insights / advice any of you may have to offer.
>>Mike, in NC
>>Vwdiesel mailing list
>>Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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