[Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 37, Issue 43

[MLightner]

>
>Message: 4
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 12:47:07 -0500 (EST)
>From: Val Christian <val at mongobird.com>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
>To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <200611291747.MAA20265 at swamps.roc.ny.us>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>While it is true that extended drain intervals on non "C" rated
>oil could impact compression, and other engine functions (bearings, etc.),
>any damage from using a non-"C" rated oil would most likely be
>overshadowed by the hours on the engine, and the way it was 
>operated and maintained.
>
>I can say this from the experience of running well over a million, or
>perhaps two million, miles on VW diesels, using non-"C" rated oil.
>In the early 80's the "C" rating and the "S" rating became almost 
>mustually exclusive.  Until that time, I generally used Castrol 
>products.  Subsequent to that time, I used a variety of "S" rated 
>oils, usually branded as Mobil or Shell, and sometimes "store brand".
>
>Many here will be tired of hearing the story, but in 05, my daughter 
>replaced a leaking cylinder head gasket on a 91 Jetta which was 
>bought new.  That engine has seen much more "S" rated oil than "C"
>rated oil over it's life.  The compression was 495 +/- 5 in all cylinders
>prior to the teardown, and the cylinder wear was well within spec,
>even though the engine had 200K miles on it at the time.
>
>Generally speaking, that car has had oil changes every 3000 miles, however
>the mean time to change oil has been a little over 4000 miles.  This is
>because of personal schedule, or perhaps I was running a "C" rated oil
>at one time or another.
>
>Again, it is true that a "C" rated oil can better handle soot and free
>carbon, however, it is limited in it's ability to do so.  I believe that 
>for similar grade oils, the soot retention capability is less than a 2X
>differential with "S" oils.  (My tribiologist is not available.)
>
>So frequent changes, even with a low cost "S" oil, does work, and it can
>be cost effective.
>  
>
Interesting that using non-C rated oils is not an absolute taboo.

>Let me address your compression issue.  If you are having a problem
>which could be compression caused, then check the compression.  Harbor
>Freight has diesel compression gauges for less than $30.
>
The HF compression tester is currently on sale for 17.99,  I saw it, it 
looks ok enough that I may get one and try it when I get to the point 
that I need to do a compression test..

>  I don't 
>have experience with their tool, but the one I use cost less than $100.
>  
>
So what brand is yours?

>If you have the injectors out, or if you're going to pull the head, then
>check the compression, to get an idea of the condition of the engine.
>If you simply want to get a metric on how the compression is doing, wait 
>until you have a few hours ~25 on the engine, so that you get a realistic 
>reading of the general condition.
>
>Should you end up pulling a head, then it's time to ask if you should 
>be doing the bottom end.  In all my life with VW diesels, I have only 
>_had_ to rering a couple of engines, and that was with over 300K and
>over 400K.
>
I'm liking these diesels more and more...

>  
>
>Good luck with your project.
>
>Val
>
>
>  
>
Thanksfor the info,

Mike

>  
>
>>* the oil should not have done to much harm, but only
>>a compression test will tell.  You can not get a
>>diesel compression tester for like $40 to your door on
>>e-bay, invest in it.  Do a compression test to put
>>your mind at ease.  Take time, but worth doing if you
>>want it for a daily driver.  Let us know what the
>>readings are.
>>
>>    
>>
>>>>1).  I found a half container of Valvoline 10W-30
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>oil in the trunk, it's 
>>>      
>>>
>>>>a non-diesel rated  oil;
>>>>if this is what the PO was running in the engine
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>for its first 2,000  
>>>      
>>>
>>>>miles, is there any thing that could or should be
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>done to correct any 
>>>      
>>>
>>>>problems that may have caused? ( I changed the
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>filter and put in some 
>>>      
>>>
>>>>Shell Rotella 15W-40)
>>>>        
>>>>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 5
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 14:15:18 EST
>From: LBaird119 at aol.com
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
>To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <4bd.9b10887.329f3646 at aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>In a message dated 11/29/2006 11:07:15 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
>val at mongobird.com writes:
>
>  
>
>>Should you end up pulling a head, then it's time to ask if you should 
>>be doing the bottom end.  In all my life with VW diesels, I have only 
>>_had_ to rering a couple of engines, and that was with over 300K and
>>over 400K.  
>>
>>    
>>
>
>  Then there's my area.  Most of them with over 100K on them 
>have bores that are out of spec.  My Audi and my sister's Volvo 
>(both diesel of course) didn't have enough compression to start with 
>  
>
>>70K and 100K respectively!  My Audi was owned by someone that 
>>    
>>
>seemed to be meticulous with oil changes and propler oil too.  Only 
>Dad's pu's original engine did I ever tear down and have next to no 
>wear.  Only speculation we can come up with is the copious amounts 
>of volcanic ash in the air through the early 80's from Mt. St. Helens.
>     Loren
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 6
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:24:01 -0500
>From: Rolf Pechukas <rbp at 4u2bu.org>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 93 VW Eurovan IP problems ??
>To: ev_update at yahoogroups.com, vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <2DB63D0A-03B9-4455-A68F-4A1E0C3B226F at 4u2bu.org>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
>  
>
>>Rolf,
>>Okay, so what was the solution?
>>Bill
>>
>>    
>>
>>>On 25-Nov-06, at 3:40 PM, Rolf Pechukas wrote:
>>>      
>>>
>>>>UPDATE:
>>>>now have good 12.5v TO GP power bus
>>>>        
>>>>
>
>
>Bill et all:
>getting full power to GP circuit was just cleaning connections
>the real problem turned out to be that my Pollak fuel switching valve  
>had failed, and apparently was stuck between tanks
>so I was running a starving blend of veggie and diesel at all times
>not getting adequate fuel, and trying to start up on cold veggie
>
>replaced the Pollak w/ 2 separate manual brass switching valves (had  
>been planning to do that for a long time anyway)
>now my EV running better than ever, using less DSL, feeling peppier
>details here:
>http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/4271021671
>
>my transmission is, thankfully, still OK
>
>thanks for asking
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 12:54:29 -0800 (PST)
>From: 82 Diesel Westy <dieselwesty at yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 93 VW Eurovan IP problems ??
>To: Rolf Pechukas <rbp at 4u2bu.org>, ev_update at yahoogroups.com,
>	vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <20061129205429.60791.qmail at web38706.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
>Great new Rolf, we VW people are VERY patient and
>persistent people, aren't we.
>
>Others would give up long before this and have more
>money in their pocket as well, but not a happy grin
>for being one with the car, vanagon or caddy.
>
>Bryan
>--- Rolf Pechukas <rbp at 4u2bu.org> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>>Rolf,
>>>Okay, so what was the solution?
>>>Bill
>>>
>>>      
>>>
>>>>On 25-Nov-06, at 3:40 PM, Rolf Pechukas wrote:
>>>>        
>>>>
>>>>>UPDATE:
>>>>>now have good 12.5v TO GP power bus
>>>>>          
>>>>>
>>Bill et all:
>>getting full power to GP circuit was just cleaning
>>connections
>>the real problem turned out to be that my Pollak
>>fuel switching valve  
>>had failed, and apparently was stuck between tanks
>>so I was running a starving blend of veggie and
>>diesel at all times
>>not getting adequate fuel, and trying to start up on
>>cold veggie
>>
>>replaced the Pollak w/ 2 separate manual brass
>>switching valves (had  
>>been planning to do that for a long time anyway)
>>now my EV running better than ever, using less DSL,
>>feeling peppier
>>details here:
>>
>>    
>>
>http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/4271021671
>  
>
>>my transmission is, thankfully, still OK
>>
>>thanks for asking
>>_______________________________________________
>>Vwdiesel mailing list
>>Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>>
>>    
>>
>
>
>
> 
>____________________________________________________________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>http://new.mail.yahoo.com
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 8
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 17:52:59 -0500
>From: MLightner <mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
>To: mikitka <mikitka at earthlink.net>
>Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <456E0F4B.1090202 at buncombe.main.nc.us>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>mikitka wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Mike,
>>That all sounds about right. You put the correct oil in there and may I ask
>>what oil filter? 
>>
>>    
>>
>
>Wix - though I'd not be unwilling to try the  oem filters, since it 
>seems that the price on Wix took a jump here last time I got one.
>
>  
>
>>Just curious, Fram isn't recommended. I run Mann/Mahle
>>filters. As for running a non diesel oil, it depends on how long a drain
>>interval he ran. If it was only 2k to 3k then it shouldn't have caused any
>>problems that I can see. 
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>The PO did profess to believe in 3k mile intervals between changes, so 
>that's good...
>
>  
>
>>Sounds like you got yourself a deal. Where in NC are you located? I'm around
>>Goldsboro area a little town called Faison.
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>I'm in western NC, not far from Asheville.  I think I've been through 
>Goldsboro, though it was years ago...
>
>  
>
>>Not sure if retorqing the head bolts is a good idea but others on here would
>>know more on that. If they have been torqued at the 600km/1000mile range I
>>don't know if retorqing would be wise.
>> 
>>
>>The timing belt if it were mine and not sure of miles on it I would replace
>>it. At least you then can start from the beginning in that area. Cheap piece
>>of mine to me.
>>Nick
>>
>> 
>>
>>    
>>
>Very good point; after all the  responses I've so far had a chance to 
>read, I guess I'll wait till after I've replaced the T-belt before I 
>start considering  it a road-worthy ride, have to look into things more, 
>see if I can get any more info from the PO
>
>thanks Nick,
>
>Mike in NC
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 9
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 18:01:00 -0500
>From: MLightner <mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta recently acquired
>To: Tony and Lillie <tonyandlillie1 at earthlink.net>
>Cc: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>Message-ID: <456E112C.5050705 at buncombe.main.nc.us>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>Tony and Lillie wrote:
>
>  
>
>>>3).  Judging from the reading I've been doing, the timing belt seems to
>>>be properly tensioned, and
>>>doesn't seem to be showing any overt signs of impending failure, is it
>>>possible that the belt could
>>>have 'plenty of life left in it', assuming that it was replaced during
>>>the rebuild?  I guess there's no way to tell for sure, but thought I'd
>>>ask in case there actually is a way.
>>>      
>>>
>>    
>>
>>>Mike, in NC
>>>      
>>>
>>Check it for cracks on both sides. Also, look at the smooth side and 
>>see if it looks smooth and shiny, or more of a rough finish. As with 
>>all belts, as they wear, they get shiny on that side from running on 
>>the intermediate shaft and tensioner.
>>
>>Tony Hoffman
>>
>>    
>>
>I haven't found any areas on it with cracks, but the smooth side looks 
>kind of striped, with some of the striped strips being more or less 
>shiny than adjacent stripes - not a hint of any numbers, as another 
>poster mentioned to look for.
>
>Thanks for your help,
>
>Mike
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 10
>Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 18:54:50 -0500
>From: "mikitka" <mikitka at earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 1985 1.6TD Jetta reciently acquired
>To: "'William J Toensing'" <toensing at wildblue.net>,
>	<vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
>Message-ID: <00ce01c71411$c24ca170$650a0a0a at speedracer>
>Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
>
>Since the SDF line of filters from AMSOIL are no longer available, they have
>developed the new EaO line of filters which from my understanding from what
>I have been reading about them on the net and the feed back I have been
>getting from Dyson Analysis who I use to read my oil samples, the new EaO
>filters are an excellent filter and show what modern technology has done in
>that field. Terry Dyson has been getting oil samples in from other customers
>using the new EaO filters and it has been showing promising results. He
>asked if I could get one for my 91 jetta when I sent in my recent sample.
>
>My other concern is the factory replacement Mahle OC51 filter has a by-pass
>pressure of 30psi where as the EaO15 only has a by-pass pressure of 7 to 10
>psi. Would this be a wise choice to use? Is the oil system on the 1.6L
>diesel touchy in that area? I know all it means is that the filter goes into
>bypass at that pressure, so if it gets to that point then all your doing is
>running non filtered oil through your engine. Seems to me that the German
>engineers made it that setting for a reason and that is why there is no
>listing for this particular filter in the EaO line, wix yes but not EaO. I
>hesitate to install a filter just because it has all the physical
>characteristics of the original filter but isn't 100% on construction to
>include the by-pass setting as well.  I guess I'm just paranoid. The price
>for Mann/Mahle filters from Autohauz.com are inexpensive and are well
>constructed filters and designed for that application.
>
>Nick
> 
>Don't use Fram or cheap aftermarket filters.  Amsoil makes an excellent oil
>filter. In addition to Wix I would add Baldwin & Hastings oil filters. I
>bought a new Rabbit diesel in 1979 & after the warranty was over, I
>installed a 100 psi oil pressure gage. The gage would peg at starting.
>Somewhere I had heard the Rabbit diesel had much higher oil pressure at
>startup than 100 psi. I obtained a 200 psi oil pressure gage & as I recall,
>but that is 26 years ago, that on startup the gage would read 180 psi &
>would peg the gage at 200 when RPM was slightly increased but when warm, the
>gage would drop to 25 psi at idle. I ran Amsoil 10W40 SE/CD synthetic oil at
>the time. Moral: Use a high quality filter. I had a 1985 Mazda 626 diesel &
>once tried a Fram filter & it leaked. Amsoil did not make an oil filter they
>would recommend for my Mazda so I used the factory filter. I have an '81
>Dasher diesel which has the same diesel engine as the Rabbits of the same
>vintage & takes an Amsoil SDF 15 oil filter. Your '85 might take a different
>filter so check this out before ordering. I use Amsoil products whenever I
>can.    
> 
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
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>
>
>End of Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 37, Issue 43
>****************************************
>
>  
>