[Vwdiesel] injector leaks

gary gbangs at cfl.rr.com
Thu Oct 12 20:58:10 EDT 2006

I second this. It has worked for me every time. I use a plate of glass.

But I might add... use light pressure and a swirling motion.

Be absolutely positive all grit is cleaned off before re-assembly.


LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/12/2006 12:58:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> eriklane at gmail.com writes:
>> So I took them back out with much
>> grumbling and now don't know what to do. Is there a trick to it that I'm
>> just missing, or should I give up and take them in to the pros?
>   Not really a trick but an IMPORTANT step.  It'll do two things. 
> Bring pressure specs to new as well as almost insure against 
> leaking at the halves union.  :-)
>   There are 3 surfaces that need worked on.  You'll need a machined 
> surface, glass or such flat area, some #4400 wet/dry sandpaper and 
> a little oil.  You'll need to dress the bottom of the upper half.  It almost 
> always has a groove/ring worn into most of the mating surface.  It 
> doesn't have to be completely clean, about 85% to 90% groove free 
> usually does it.  In other words only take it down as much as you need.
>   There's a middle piece, about the size of a penny or nickel and about 
> 1/4" thick.   You'll need to do both sides but the side with two ridges 
> will take very little.  The all-flat surface will have a ring in it and it's 
> the 
> one I was thinking of for the 90% cleanup.  oops.
>   Rinse everything simply letting it drip and shake off, with WD-40 or 
> diesel. Brakleen works better but the pintle/plunger needs to be 
> lubed with WD or diesel.  Reassemble with just a touch of anti 
> sieze on the threads of the upper half, to torque spec + 2 or 3
> ft.lbs.  I add two ft.lbs in the event you need to use the upper 
> half at some point to remove the injector.  That way it's tighter 
> and removes the injector rather than coming apart.  :-)
>      Loren
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