[Vwdiesel] injector leaks
gbangs at cfl.rr.com
Thu Oct 12 20:58:10 EDT 2006
I second this. It has worked for me every time. I use a plate of glass.
But I might add... use light pressure and a swirling motion.
Be absolutely positive all grit is cleaned off before re-assembly.
LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/12/2006 12:58:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> eriklane at gmail.com writes:
>> So I took them back out with much
>> grumbling and now don't know what to do. Is there a trick to it that I'm
>> just missing, or should I give up and take them in to the pros?
> Not really a trick but an IMPORTANT step. It'll do two things.
> Bring pressure specs to new as well as almost insure against
> leaking at the halves union. :-)
> There are 3 surfaces that need worked on. You'll need a machined
> surface, glass or such flat area, some #4400 wet/dry sandpaper and
> a little oil. You'll need to dress the bottom of the upper half. It almost
> always has a groove/ring worn into most of the mating surface. It
> doesn't have to be completely clean, about 85% to 90% groove free
> usually does it. In other words only take it down as much as you need.
> There's a middle piece, about the size of a penny or nickel and about
> 1/4" thick. You'll need to do both sides but the side with two ridges
> will take very little. The all-flat surface will have a ring in it and it's
> one I was thinking of for the 90% cleanup. oops.
> Rinse everything simply letting it drip and shake off, with WD-40 or
> diesel. Brakleen works better but the pintle/plunger needs to be
> lubed with WD or diesel. Reassemble with just a touch of anti
> sieze on the threads of the upper half, to torque spec + 2 or 3
> ft.lbs. I add two ft.lbs in the event you need to use the upper
> half at some point to remove the injector. That way it's tighter
> and removes the injector rather than coming apart. :-)
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