[Vwdiesel] priming the fuel, Audi 5000S

82 Diesel Westy dieselwesty at yahoo.com
Wed Sep 13 11:28:39 EDT 2006

One other suggestion, use some fish tank clean hose
from the fuel filter to the pump for a few days to
make sure you have the air out of the fuel feed to the

You can also remove the "IN" banjo bolt from the pump
and put it in a clean coffee can.  Put a rag with
compressed air nossle blower into the fuel tank
filler.  Using about 30lbs of compressed air you
should be able to force fuel out of the tank and wait
to see good flow of fuel with no bubbles, you will
need a helper to do this.

Battery cables are key.  The heat does indicate a bad
ground to body.

Good luck, Bryan

--- LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/12/2006 6:59:00 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time, 
> vegbenz300 at gmail.com writes:
> > My girlfriend's Audi 5000S (1980) has been out of
> commision for about a
> > month now.  Originally I thought it was a glow
> plug issue, but after
> > replacing all 5 plug and the relay, I realized
> that it seems that fuel is
> > not getting to the injectors.
> > I was able to pull fuel up from the tank with a
> suction pump, and I've
> > changed the fuel filter, but I'm not sure what
> else I can do to get the fuel
> > to the injection pump.  A friend said  that if
> there was air in the line
> > then I just needed to crank and crank for a long
> time to reprime.  Well I've
> > cranked alot, and nothing's improving.
> > Not sure why the fuel has lost it's prime in the
> first place, but the
> > problem seemed to start gradually.  The car would
> be hard to start, then
> > harder, then finally it just wouldn't start.
>   I thought I'd mentioned this before but here
> goes...
>   Pull the fuel return banjo bolt from the pump (the
> one marked "out")
> and fill the pump full of fuel.  It should then
> start in a few moments of 
> cranking.  Once started, check the clear, supply
> line for bubbles.  If 
> you see any then you need to find the source.  If
> you don't then your 
> leak is either the input shaft seal or in the return
> lines somewhere.  
> > 
> > 
> > Another thing I noticed yesterday while cranking
> the engine was that there
> > are two ground wires that get very hot during
> cranking, one from the neg
> > terminal to the chassis, and one below the
> injection pump that goes to
> > chassis.  Is it normal for these to get hot?
> > 
>   Yes and no.  It's sometimes "normal" but it's not
> desireable.  It 
> depends on how long you're cranking, how good the
> starter is and 
> how clean the terminals/connections all are.
>   Larger cables would definitely help.  My 5K TD has
> the ground 
> connecting to a flimsy metal strap, welded to the
> fender, behind 
> the battery (under the hood).  Engine then got
> ground from a braided 
> strap between the body and the engine.  That piece
> of metal would 
> sometimes smoke!  I put a #1 or so eye-to-eye cable
> from the battery 
> terminal to the engine and it cranked twice as fast
> and also started 
> when it was below 75F for the first time in a long
> time!
>   Your problem may simply be your starter/power
> supply.
>      Loren
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Bryan Belman, Pt Pleasant, NJ
04 Jetta Wagon TDI PD, 100hp, 5sp   -- running :)
82 Diesel Westy 1.9NA               -- running :)
92 Jetta Eco-Turbo Diesel           -- not running yet <:>
90 Audi 200, 2.2L Turbo FWD         -- runs some times, need to sell :(
70 Type 1 stock Beetle              -- Not running well :(

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