[Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Retorquing a head

Chuck Carnohan Chuck.Carnohan at itd.idaho.gov
Mon Sep 18 10:30:49 EDT 2006

I had an '81 with a recently replaced head and gasket. It began to seep
a little oil/air around the head gasket with no other signs of oil in
coolant/coolant in oil. I retourqed the head per Bentley with complete
success. So, to make a long story short. If the head has been replaced
and there is a good chance that the final torque was never achieved you
would likely be OK to give 'em a 1/4 turn more. If it is already tighter
than Dick's hat band and the head has been on there for many many
miles/years then you need to replace the gasket and bolts. May as well
have the head checked out also. Sorry as I'm sure this isn't what you
wanted to hear.


-----Original Message-----
From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
On Behalf Of Marvin Jansen
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:13 PM
To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Vwdiesel Retorquing a head

My son has an 86na that seems to leak oil from the front of the head
gasket and may lose some coolant when driven hard.  There is no air
coming in the line to the resavior and it's not building up pressure.
My question is if it will hurt anything to tighten the head bolts a
1/4 turn and see if it helps?
I just did the 1000 mile 1/4 turn on the 85 1.6na and was glad to have
it done.

On 9/17/06, vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com <vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com>
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> Today's Topics:
>   1. Re: FW:  head gasket replacement (mikitka)
>   2. Re: dash mounted clocks (Roger Brown)
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "mikitka" <mikitka at earthlink.net>
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 11:34:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] FW: head gasket replacement Ok makes sense and

> now I feel like a dummy, I was so wrapped up in the studs and how they

> could be in the way of the cam that I forgot about the cam snout 
> sticking out the shroud, which by the way I take the top bolts loose 
> on the shroud and move it out of the way with no problems.  Sorry for 
> the miscommunication.
> Nick
> It is because of the rear portion of the cam cover. The cam snout 
> protrudes through it and also the tensioner stud. This and 
> specifically due to the nature of the head studs, the head has to come
straight up.
> -Gary
> mikitka wrote:
> > Help me to understand why the cam has to come out?  I don't see 
> > where the cam will be in the way of the studs. You have to pull the 
> > head up off the studs and the cam sits on top of the head so how is 
> > it in the way?  I'm confused on this.  Now the tensioner pulley stud

> > yes that has an issue
> with
> > the metal shroud on that end of the engine and I found it comes out 
> > easy,
> at
> > least mine did.
> > Nick
> >
> >
> > I can't imagine you're gonna' get the head up over the studs without

> > removing the cam and the tensioner stud.  I have not yet had to do 
> > so with
> headstuds,
> >
> > though, so it is just conjecture on my part.  Regardless, I like to 
> > remove the cam until the head is torqued back down, so that the 
> > engine can be rotated
> > without any valve/piston contact.  Then after head is bolted on, put

> > the crank to TDC and lay the cam down with #1 lobes up and tighten 
> > it down.
> >
> > Andrew
> >
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Roger Brown <r.c.brown at ieee.org>
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 12:56:39 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] dash mounted clocks Terry Briggs wrote:
> > Hey, I know I might be beating a dead horse here, but is there 
> > anyway to revive the clock in my 86 na golf.
> This may help:
> http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/CheapTricks/index.shtml#ClockRepair
> --
>    Roger
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