Wed Feb 7 13:42:30 EST 2007
cluster may have a poor ground and/or dirty or loose
When you remove it, simply make sure all the
connections are clean and tight. I saw a suggestion
to place a piece of electrical tape on the hard
plastic under the blue mylar circuit board. This will
make it a bit thicker and force a tighter connection.
Also, you can take a straight pen and use it to
tighten up the connections on the plug.
Also, if you stick your head under the dash, above the
fuse box there should be a little "grounding tree" If
you remove and replace each connector one or two
times, that will clean up any corrosion and help it
--- James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net> wrote:
> Doug Presny wrote:
> > 1982 Diesel Rabbit Car
> > 1.) I had a fuel injection pump leak at the
> "head" seal. Since
> > changing this O ring was a slippery slope that
> would result in me buying
> > a rebuilt injection pump, I tried the fix of
> running transmission seal
> > fluid into the injection pump and leaving
> overnight. Maybe only
> > temporary, but the leak has stopped for the last
> two weeks.
> Interesting. It's a seal swelling agent, so...
> be prepared to repeat when the the seal sweller
> leaves the seal.
> > 2.) Since I purchased the car, it has been
> missing the plug that
> > covers the visual access to the flywheel. I was
> told by one person that
> > these are purposefully left off to facilitate
> cooling. Is this true, or
> > should I replace.
> keep the dirt out with the plug, if the clutch
> needed cooling, that
> means it is slipping, and in need of service... and
> no amount of cooling
> fixes that, or helps it in any way. It's sealed to
> keep the dirt/fluids out.
> > 3.) The front seats have a lot of play when
> locked in. I assume
> > there are some wear parts that can be replaced.
> Any guidance on what to
> > replace and where to buy replacement parts.
> There are plastic shoes on the ends of the seat feet
> that run in the
> track. Careless removal/replacement of the seat can
> break them, and the
> busted parts bugger off, letting the seat rock. It
> shouldn't (rock).
> > 4.) The glow plug light does not always come
> on when starting
> > although the dome light does dim in the position
> where the light would
> > normally come on. The car has also been starting
> well, so I assume it
> > is just the indicator light. Whenever the glow
> plug light doesn't come
> > on, the oil indicator light stays on all the time.
> I will be removing
> > the dash soon, so any guidance on how to remedy
> this is appreciated.
> > Also, how do you identify which relay is the glow
> plug relay.
> Run a wire from the glow plug bus bar to a light you
> install yourself
> somewhere to indicate if the plugs are lit, and
> forget the dash light.
> It's a timer no more, fixing could be as easy as a
> relay replacement,
> BUT you know if it's cold. If it's cold, count
> fifteen billygoats, then
> hit the starter. A light to the bus bar ensures
> that the plugs have
> power, that's the important part. The dashlight
> just tells you when to
> start the car based on engine temperature, nothing
> more, and is in no
> way connected to the plug circuit.
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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